WilliamFug

Hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving and Safe Travels. sure hope the turkeys
don't taste like car parts, lol

Hi everyone, I need a few of you to measure from the rear of the rocker panel to the rear tyres and see if there's a difference side to side, I have a 9-10 mm difference but have done measurement checks of the chassis and its all within 2-3mm, so am at a bit of a loss as to where it's out? Or has anyone else had this issue?
Thanks

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.
I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.


 
 
Things you'll need:
3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)
Sharp razor blades
Scissors
Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)
 
Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.
 
 
Step 1: removing old woodgrain
Picture 1

To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.
 
Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve
Picture 2

I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain
 
Step 3: applying new woodgrain
Picture 3

Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.
Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.
I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3
 
Step 4: folding over the edge
Picture 4

In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.
 
Step 5: cutting holes
Picture 5

In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)

next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.
 
Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

Cleaning out the garage and looking to sell a few things. All parts from a S code, automatic sports roof car with drum brakes and standard back seat. Additional pics and questions can be answered. All parts make offer and shipping TBD.

Getting ready to clean the engine bay for painting and scraping off old respray paint..
Found this paint stamp near the rh shock tower on the apron. Is it  genuine  or what.?

http://kalecoauto.com
Perfect store to buy your Chevy friends Christmas gifts.

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.
 
Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.
 
I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.
 
A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.
 
Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.
 
I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  
 
The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:
1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.
2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 
3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.
4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 
5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.
6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance
 
So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.
 
At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and into 3rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.
 
I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.
 
Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  
 
Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).
 
A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 
 

@69stanggt - Thanks for the note. I plan to drive the heck out of it next year. If I have to re-restore her again in 10 years so be it. Is that photo in your signature your current project? I was thinking silver jade for a long time and it was a hard choice between that and black jade. But really anything is better than the gold/new lime mix someone had mixed up and painted it.
 
@Mike65 - I've been watching your build for a long time. You guys doing all that metal work amaze me. All I've done has been engine, interior, or signing checks. Keep it up man!
 
Too bad winters coming I think all three us will be going crazy for spring to come. I don't mind the holidays but after that April can't come quick enough.

I would do the 3:55.   .     If you are not running an overdrive, the 3:80 will keep your RPMs high  on the highway.   I have 3.73s in my 1968 with a 5 speed, and it is a really good combination.  
 
From strictly a gearhead perspective, The gear ratios that have a common factor (the ring gear to pinion gear ratio have a common number) tend to make more noise.   The 3:55 to 1 will usually have a ring gear with 39 teeth and a pinion gear with 11 teeth.  (no common factor).  I have not seen a 3:80  gear ratio, but my assumption is that it would have 38 ring gear teeth, and 10 pinion gear teeth, the common factor for that ratio is 2. So, more noise, if that matters.
 
Also, check your engine rpm with your tire size and the different rear end ratios.   You will want to compare your engine rpm in each transmission gear with the different gear ratio and tire sizes to make sure you are within the torque band your camshaft.  This will also determine if your stall speed is correct.  Otherwise you may "bog" off the line, or feel "slip" at highway speeds.
 
The TCI and B&M websites have good info on the torque converter sizing considerations.
 
Nice car, I love that you kept the vinyl top....good luck!

After a long sabbatical Fat Boy is back in the shop!!  Paint is done and the engine and trans go back in on Friday.  I need to have the distributor rebuilt, last time I used Tim O'Connor and he did a fantastic job but his website says he's closed. Any ideas on a super anal distributor freak that can do a phenomenal job rebuilding this bad boy?

Ok so I've lurked for a while on this site and thought I'd jump in finally.
 
So here is a brief story about about my car. I bought it at 16 (a couple decades ago) from my grandmother. Basic stats are
-Grande - New Lime/Black Top
-Dark Ivy Gold Interior
-302 2bbl/C4
-2.79 Conventional Rear Axle (though I suspect this was changed at some point to something in the high 3s but still not locking)
It was her daily driver. I drove it for a year or so and then I basically killed it in shop class. Had I been my own dad back then I would never had let my kid sign up to rebuild his Mustang Engine in shop class. Just saying.
 
Basic errors - too big of a Cam Shaft, missed an important frost plug that closes an oil galley, dented the door pushing it into a post, scratched the hell out of it when an unsecured hood slipped off the hinges, just to name a few.
 
So I drove it for a couple years, or tried to occasionally, and then parked it. I accumulated a part here or there for about 15 years then decided it was time to get her going again. So I pulled the motor again 3 years ago. Here is where I am at now.
-had the heads worked a bit (all the rocker studs had been pushed out due to the oversized cam) to change over to threaded rocker arm studs, also hardened seats were put in back in the 90s so no worries there
-Swapped the cam with a Competition roller cam
-Changed over to Competition roller rockers
-Moved to a Holley 4bbl 4160
-Replaced the exhaust manifolds with shorties
-Upgraded to duel flow master exhaust
-Changed out the front drums to 4 caliper discs
-GT'd up the suspension
-Rebuilt the front end
-Beefed up the suspension
-Coil over shocks in the rear
-Rebuilt the steering
-Rebuilt the Transmission
-Custom Torque converter
-Hotter Distribution (no more points for us)
-Patch some minor rust holes
-2 new Doors
-16 inch Vintage Wheel Works Rims
-And as of last week Primer
 
Also after media blasting we found 1 fender was a doner and the quarters must have been replaced in the 80s but they did so well we don't have to mess with it. The dented door was just easier/cheaper to replace, while the remaining door was patched to often to bother keeping it.
 
The goal is to be on the road in the next couple of months. I know this is a pretty light build compared to many on here but it's mine and I wanted to share. The new scheme is going to be Black Jade, with a white top, and a double white pin stripe (similar to the black but without the reflective center and painted not vinyl). The interior is going to be Dark Ivy Gold two toned with White Inserts - I'm not sure how this will look but I'm crossing my fingers. Later I'm going to switch out to HIDs head lamps and LED tail lamps.
 
My Paint Guy says it's bad news to have a car without a name. Since this car spent so long in the Blue Ridge Mountains I figured Virginia was fitting. I'll start with the before photos and add some more later in the week.

Looks great! So how come you had to dye the dash? Were you going to go white at first and then decided on black or is that actually not regular black?

So the holiday shopping season is upon us.  A lot of companies try to earn your business by offering deals and savings on their products. 
List out the company and savings on this thread, if you know of any, to help out each other but parts for our cars.
 

As I have been working on getting this chassis ready for bracing yesterday, I needed a way to keep the poor thing a little more stable. With the rocker out of it makes it impossible to hold it still without welding something in it's place. So instead of welding / fastening a temporary brace in the car, I chose to just temp install the parts that will be installed. Interesting concept, but at least I'll know that they will fit. The car came with some replacement pieces that could be used, like the inner rocker. This part came from the factory on the long side in order to make all the tabs and connecting flanges manually. Starting with the given point of 22" for the rear wheel well area to the seat belt hole, I made the appropriate tabs out of the extra material and bent them in their proper direction and angle. The Weld and Sealant manual is a good reference for the direction of the tabs, not so much on the size or location. I seem to be doing a lot of inner rocker installs as of lately, practice makes perfect lol
 

 
Fitting it in the rear torque box area and over the floor reinforcement piece required a little persuasion as the rear of the car was moved up, kinda neat how much it moves vertically. Getting the inner rocker to fit correctly took a bunch of clamps and some strategic hammer blows to get it situated. Surprisingly enough, it went in and was level (measuring level at the middle top portion) just like the other side. The old part does have surface rust that will be taken care of before it is welded in place. 
 

 

 
When I built the table, the second crossmember was measured and placed to align with the front of the torque boxes for a good reference point. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part.
 

 
The mark I made on the inner rocker was the outside of the forward torque box, so the thickness of the front of the box (I allowed .125") for the bend radius plus the metal thickness. This is another place that the factory makes tabs on the inside of the rocker to have more attachment points, I go a little bit farther and cap the end of the "tube" for more strength. This inner rocker is not tapered up towards the front torque box, which might have to be another modification. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Prepping the area by grinding down the PO's leftover spot weld remnants (thanks whoever took it apart, you did a great job lol) the outer portion of the torque box popped right in place. Using a couple 18R vise grips to hold it up I installed the inner rocker on it's outboard side. (not in the picture)
 

 
I did test fit the outer rocker before any of this was attempted, it fit fairly well. It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. Once all these pieces are happy in their new positions (sheet metal screwed together) I can get the doors on this and continue getting the chassis braced and properly supported. So far, so good

I am selling a 69 Q code Mach-1. Its a project car but is well worth the effort. This car has been off the road since 92. The car has always been a southern car and has its original,block,heads,crank,rods and pistons. The block is standard bore. It is a very early production 69 from the Metuchen NJ plant. Car has both original fiberglass 1/4 end caps which were only on early 69 cars. The car also has its original body buck tag as well. Original color was silver jade with a black mach-1 interior. Car was painted resale red back in the 80's. Asking 18K. I have a deluxe Marti as well. Please P/M me for additional information and photos.

Is there any trick to getting the narrow metal cover for the turn signal wires on the underside of the steering column to clip in to place & stay there?.

I have the Vintage Air Daily Driver unit under my dash. It worked fine several times but now the fan/blower is making a buzzing noise like something is rubbing the blades, maybe something got sucked up in it.
 
Do any of you know if the fan is accessible in that unit? Where does the fresh air enter the system, from the footwell? 
 
Any and all advise appreciated.
 
TIA

Looking for a used (GC) temp sender out of a 69 302 with gauges. Anyone have anything?
 
Part number SW-888 or C9WY 10884-A

Lately, the forum is getting more spam from newbies.  Usually, there's only one or two each morning when I log on, but lately, it has gotten worse.  This morning there were at least a dozen separate spam posts, some by the same person and were identical.  I usually report them to the administrators, but the reporting mechanism is slow, so I didn't report them all. 
 
Thankfully, the admin folks are pretty good about removing them promptly, but still...this spam is getting very annoying. 

Hey everyone,
 
So I have finally found a "new" to me hood. It is a 69 hood with minimal rust. The question that I have is; there is some rust on under the support structure where I could not get to with a grinder. So, should I still purchase the hood? Would there be a way for me to have the hood dipped and eliminate the rust? The cost is $200 so I feel that it's a good price. I just want a piece of mind that I won't have to worry about rust coming through my hood after a couple of years.
 
Thanks for the input!
 
Andrew

Hi Everyone,
 
While driving the 69 Sportsroof today the horns went off for about 30 seconds by themselves.  They would randomly go on and off in bursts.  Burst vary from 2 - 30 seconds.  I have disconnected the wires from the horn until I figure out the problem.  Has anyone experienced this issue?  Where should I start to investigate the reason for it.
 
Thanks Mark 

My old man legs are having a hard time squeezing into my seat. There seems to be plenty of room to move the seat tracks back a few inches. I don't carry back seaters so no concern about that. I do have a tilt steering wheel that helps but not enough. Has anyone moved their seat tracks back? And any recommendations?
Thanks,
Bill

Here's mine
 
\
 
Or this.
 

Rough Fiberglass out of the mold
 

 

 

 
We will put a nice polished mesh set back about an inch into the opening. The hood will be fully functional.

First 3 coats of high build primer.