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latoracing

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latoracing last won the day on November 26 2017

latoracing had the most liked content!

About latoracing

  • Rank
    V8 Powered G-Machine
  • Birthday 10/22/1969

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Fixing rusty old Mustangs, Fishing, Welding

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  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Working on Mustangs, Fishing
  • Occupation
    R+D Metal Fabricator

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  1. Aluminum and pot metal repair

    The biggest issue I see with the HTS rod is that it doesn't completely melt until it hits 737 degrees, probably too hot for pot metal applications. The Muggy weld alloy #1 melts at 350 degrees, more of a solder than a brazing rod and much more suitable for white metal applications. I'm sure the HTS has an application that it will excel at, but like everything else, one size does not fit all.
  2. Rack and Pinion Opinions

    One of the irritating design issues with the Unisteer system is access to the eccentric bolts on the LCA. I don't think you would easily access these bolts through the rather small access holes in the provided rack mount. It would be very difficult to perform any adjustments in this area. As I elected to "recreate" this mount, I incorporated slots for the LCA bolt to pass through the stock locations and through the rack mount. (you can see a bolt in the upper mount) Shims had to be machined to close the gap between the rack mount and the LCA mount. I also added a 2" x 1/4" flange to the inside portion to give the part a little more rigidity. In looking at the RRS rack, it looks to be the same basic layout Unisteer is using, (two bolts in the center of the rack connecting to the tie rods) but utilizing the stock steering component locations. http://www.rrs-online.com.au/gt-rack-and-pinion.html (comparing to http://www.unisteer.com/1965-1970-mustang/late-67-70-power-mustang-rack-and-pinion-for-big-blocks.html) As it is not replacing the crossmember with a plate, steering forces should be transmitted more directly to the frame. One thing that I do not like in looking at the RRS system, urethane mounts with U straps holing it in position. I am not understanding the need to mount the rack with urethane blocks, that could deflect with large sticky tires. I like the way Unisteer has machined aluminum blocks securely clamping the rack to the mount. I have a complete Street or Track suspension package and the Unisteer rack was recommended to me by Shaun. He runs one on his '66 dedicated track car and liked it so much, he now sells them. None of these aftermarket rack systems are fantastic, they all have their short comings and flaws. For the intended use of the vehicle and what you personally like is the choice we all have to make. Do your homework and make the choice on what fits your personal needs.
  3. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    I shaped a scrap piece of 1/4" plate and opened my vice up to about 3/8". Laid the corner on top of the open vice jaws and used the 1/4" plate as a forming tool. Hammered until it was deep enough and straightened it out by hand. Nothing fancy. The entire corner replacement took about two hours, start to finish.
  4. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    Thanks for all the compliments. This little corner was MUCH easier to fabricate than reconstructing the entire lower section of my driver's side door.
  5. Rack and Pinion Opinions

    My setup is a little more on the modified side as I have lowered my engine 1" and slid it back a lot. As these modifications have led to a custom pan, remade Unisteer rack mount, and of course custom headers. Reusing the stock power steering (for me) would have not worked out so well. The only issue I could see with using the Unisteer rack on a stock-ish setup would be the shaft interfering with a header tube. I did equal length 4-2-1 (crazy bends) and was able to route the tubes around the shaft, and other obstacles. Regular Try-Y's ought to fit fairly decent as the new shaft is much smaller than the steering box that would have been in the same location. I cannot comment on how it works, still slowly building stuff. I chose the Unisteer over the TCP for the simple fact that there is an actual cross member that the rack attaches to. The TCP rack is the cross member, and I couldn't see having those stresses transmitted through the rack housing. (Hopefully this will get abused lol) I'm certain the TCP rack would function great on a street driven / auto cross build.
  6. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    Since I have the speaker hole all fixed up, the rear corner was in need of some repair. There was no way I was going to attempt "filling" these holes with weld, that would have ended up constructing the corner out of MIG wire and grinding it smooth. I marked the area that i wanted to fix and cut it off with a cutoff wheel. The piece that I removed i covered with masking tape and marked the flange location with a pencil. Knowing that this part needed some extra material for the tuck (raised hump in the middle) the tape accommodated for all these profiles, much easier. I cut a piece of 20ga for my patch, leaving some extra material, and transferred the tape to my new corner. I measured the angle of the flattened out mark I had made earlier (which was 85 degrees) and made a forming plate out of some 3/16" plate. The corner was tack welded to the 3/16" plate, allowing for the step that will be formed in it. My line was moved off the plate by 3/16""ish. Clamped to my vice, I used a combination of tools and a chunk of aluminum to hammer the shape into the 20ga. Using aluminum and UHMW tipped forming tools (made when I did the battery-less apron) there were very few tool marks. Checking my progress with the original corner of the door, things were looking fairly good. A few more touch-ups and it was time to put the tuck in the part. More scrap plate was used to form the tool to shape the "tuck". More beating with a soft faced mallet, and a little creative vice work, the new corner was looking like it should. A little trimming, and it was tack welded in place. Weld, Weld, Weld, grind, grind, grind, done. The outer edge needs a little trimming (I made a template before I cut anything apart). This is in need of some epoxy along with the door skin, and the two will become one.
  7. 1970 Convertible Restoration

    Vic, you're not old enough to have a grandkid, much less three lol. I'm sure they were a lot of fun, and they will hold Grandpa up to taking them on cruses in the convertible once it is completed. I hope that you are taking notes and writing down all these electrical components, cause you can come wire mine if I ever get to that point. It's looking very nice.
  8. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    I love grabber blue. If my '70 had not been an actual grabber green car, it would most definitely been painted grabber blue. The '17 is so refined, unlike any of its predecessors, it will spoil you. I can't get past not having to put a key in the ignition to start it, that is still weird. Since fotosuckit messed up the picture hosting for my build thread (what do you expect for free???) I'm adding pictures back to my thread little by little. It's time consuming but well worth the effort. Pictures are worth a couple of words...
  9. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    I have been very lazy the past several weeks, just had all kinds of excuses to not work on pretty much anything. The wife and I have been on several adventures (one was to the Ark Encounter in Kentucky, you all gotta check that out), lots of autumn fishing excursions, and getting everything ready for the winter months (i.e. splitting wood lol) I've gone out and got me a Coyote motor, just because... It came in it's very own special shipping crate... 2017 GT with the performance package (can you say 15" Brembo's up front?) 3.73 tortion diff. and Recaro sport seating, it's fun and a much "needed" upgrade for the DD. I dug out my passenger side door shell out of the waiting to be fixed pile as I needed something straight forward that didn't need "inventing". (I'm kinda at a standstill with the tail lights, I've got to get my hands on some buckets.) The shell has been sandblasted forever ago and it hasn't rusted at all, which I am amazed. This shell is in very good shape with only a few areas that need some attention, like the lovely speaker hole someone used a hatchet to form. The usual cut and weld new metal in (I'm surprised I can still do this lol) didn't take too long. I've got it welded up and ground all nice and neat. There is a crunchy area on the bottom rear corner that will have to be fixed next and a few small screw / pinholes that will have to be taken care of, then it will be epoxy primed. I promise I'll do better and keep my project moving, even if it is slowly....
  10. 1970 Convertible Restoration

    Oh the days of sitting in that engine bay when it was ugly lol. That looks very nice Vic!
  11. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    As I wasn't 100% satisfied with the way the holes lined up on the lenses, I had to do some alterations to the hammer form. The outer holes needed to slide to the outside by 1/8", so I epoxied some .125" steel onto the form and removed a little more on the opposite sides. That being taken care of I attempted to flatten and reshape my first part. It didn't fair too well, but gave me a good idea of how the form will function on the next part. I had to figure out how to get the upper and lower bends in the proper location, and made a tool to duplicate the lower bend's larger radius. The upper bend was as easy as sticking in my box and pan brake and bending it up. The larger radius was accomplished in the press with a little bit of creativity. Both bends turned out just right. A little measuring, and some sharpie marks, I went ahead and trimmed the panel down to a pre-fit size and fitted it to the car. I have been looking at my tail light buckets and I might see if I can get my hands on some '69 buckets as my original approach isn't going to work out like I had hoped. I have spent a bunch of time getting to this point, but still haven't modified anything on the car yet, or spent any money, so IF this doesn't pan out, I've just wasted a bunch of time.
  12. I don't have a direct shot of the area you are referring to, but if you can get the wire through the lower A pillar and out before your fresh air vent, keep it tucked in close to the A pillar. Go up to the top of the toe board (bottom of the HVAC box) and go towards the tunnel, bore a hole to the engine bay, secure with a bunch of cushion clamps and bulk head grommets . Otherwise you'll end up going through your lower cowl and ending up on the outside portion of the aprons, or trying to go through a torque box. Should have put you a channel in there lol. Hope that made some kind of since.
  13. Transmission Centered in Tunnel?

    I would center the transmission between the frame rails. The shifter hole is offset towards the driver's side to accommodate the various stock transmission shifter levers. I have installed a TKO-600 in my project. Fitting the shifter up through the stock tunnel opening. I ended up cutting my new 1 piece floor to get the transmission centered in the car. Your measurements are correct.
  14. What direct fit Aluminum Radiator is there

    Very pricey, (looked at the price after I posed it) sorry :(
  15. What direct fit Aluminum Radiator is there

    If you decide to go with a different radiator, and possibly an electric fan setup, check out https://www.crracing.com/mustang_cougar_radiator_69_70_sbf_passenger_side_inlet_outlet_transmission_oil_cooler_accepts as another source. They have some pretty wild applications for the custom stuff too.
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