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latoracing last won the day on February 10

latoracing had the most liked content!

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About latoracing

  • Rank
    V8 Powered G-Machine
  • Birthday 10/22/1969

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  • Interests
    Fixing rusty old Mustangs, Fishing, Welding


  • Location
  • Interests
    Working on Mustangs, Fishing
  • Occupation
    R+D Metal Fabricator

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  1. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Since the 1/2" round rod didn't quite fit the bill, the alternative hangers require a little bit of machining. Chucked up some 1018 1" solid bar in the lathe, turned it down to fit the inside diameter of some 1.125" DOM 1/8" wall CRS tube. The bar was drilled with a 3/8" bit and chopped into .3125" washers. Getting my washers all de-burred and the tubing cut to size, the 3/8" grade 8 bolts were tack welded to the washers... and then welded into the 1.125" tubing. I removed 1/2" of thread off of the end of the bolt so it didn't stick out too much past the nylon lock nut that will be used later on. I am cheating a little as these are basically what I built for my car... much easier the second time around. Letting those parts cool off a little, the mounting plates needed to be shaped and drilled. After getting the outer parts fit to the rear floorboard the inside doubler was bent and trimmed to fit. I used a scrap piece of 20ga between the two to simulate the floorboard and pilot drilled through all the layers. Once I was happy with this setup, the outer part was placed on the car lining it up on the Center Line I had marked earlier and pilot drilled them in place. I went ahead and reamed the outside plate holes to 1/4" along with the floorboard and the inside doubler received a little larger 5/16" hole to help with alignment. I needed to get the standoffs fried in place so they were attached with just a little heat. These are actually painted and on the car, but I didn't take any pictures with them in place. I've got to get some seam sealer around the edges and a little more paint touch up once the hangers are all complete. Now to fab the rest of the hangers...
  2. Looking at the RS chassis, there is something that kinda sticks out to me. The front suspension does bolt to the existing frame rails, but the rest of the chassis is sitting on bushings. Their paged didn't call out what type of bushings they are, but if it were bolted up with urethane or some sort of semi flexible bushing there is instant flex aft of the front suspension. I might be incorrect in my point of view, but I would want this frame solidly attached to the unibody. $12K wouldn't be too hard to swallow if the chassis came with all the suspension components. Shipping might get into your wallet a little...
  3. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Time to fab up some hangers for this system. As I wasn't quite sure of how I wanted to go about doing this, I messed around with some 304 1/2" round rod to see if I could bend up something that might look the part. Wasn't too overly thrilled with the way that turned out and I wasn't sure it would do what I want it to do, so I made a rough template out of some poster board for a little more custom look. I'll probably make the bracket encircle the muffler outlet as this looks chopped off. A little bit of work needs to be accomplished to fab up the brackets and the mounts for the floor board attachment areas as well. The hangers will be 11ga stainless and have to be dressed up a little, and to lighten them up some too. Went and picked up the custom driveshaft this afternoon. I have a shop up the road from me that does lots of custom drivelines for all kinds of vehicles and machinery. Got it back to the shop and bolted it in place. Looks like it belongs.
  4. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Had a fun day of fitting and getting a lot accomplished with these pipes. I had to trim the muffler inlets and outlets first thing. Got them cut and the flanges tack welded in place. The mufflers fit really nice so the flanges were welded solid. I'm getting use to new contacts and I am having fun with depth perception, my welds are suffering... I removed the exhaust and finish welded all the connections and flanges. With a little adjustment after it cooled off it was ready to get cleaned up. I used red scotch-brite to remove the discolored areas and give the pipes a uniform look. I did not remove all the surface imperfections so there are some deeper scratches and manufacturing defects in the tube. Using the strip of material like a belt I quickly got it looking better. I picked up a weird little stand from work the other day as they were going to chuck it in the recycle bin (it was a brand new sample from someone) and set it up to help hold the pipes as I finished with the cleaning. It worked fairly well, might have to keep it around for a while. The cleaning took less than an hour total, but looks presentable. I stuck it back under the car, bolted it to the headers and installed the mufflers which are being supported by the stands. Once everything was in its proper position I installed the belly plate, just to see how everything cleared, which it did nicely. Laying on the floor looking up revealed this... So far so good. Now to build some hangers and chop up some tail pipes.
  5. latoracing

    1970 Grabber Green Project

    Thank you for checking in on my progress. Glad you are recovering from careless renters and their lack of concern for other people's property. I'm still learning and attempting to gain new skills along with trying to keep old skills sharpened. I am so privileged to have a desire to share freely what I have learned over my life and have been blessed with some degree of skill. If you can't lift up someone else and encourage them in their efforts, what good are skills and knowledge if you can't pass it along? I am defiantly not the be all / end all of what I do, and by no means perfect. I do miss sharing what all is going on but is is so discouraging to put so much time into something to have it deleted. I'll get Vic all fixed up and a few other projects completed and I will be back on my stuff, which has been gathering dust... Thanks for the kind words John, Mike
  6. latoracing

    Craig from New Zealand

    Is the exhaust going in the stock location on this build? if so, 4" x 14" case mufflers fit nicely and do not hang down when properly located.
  7. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    The fun things you can do with a CAD program and a printer... In order to get to the tip customization I gotta get the pipes ran out the back. I trimmed and fitted the pipes from the X pipe to the mufflers. Attempting to keep them the same height and end in the relative same place was interesting. As all this is tack welded together past the X, it will have to come back down and get fully welded before I get the hangers fabricated. I have thought about using the V band clamps before the mufflers or after, but as these exhaust systems are heavy and the only hangers are in the rear of the car, I chose to locate the clamps forward of the mufflers. The mufflers are 14" long plus the inlet and outlet tubes. I trimmed about half of the inlet tube and attached the other half of the V band clamp to see how it would look on the car. It fits, but might need another inch out of the flange to help with the over the axle portion. The outlet flange will also pretty much disappear to get the pipe centered over the axle. I'll chop up the driver's side muffler, tack the V band fitting to it and see what I have to cut up next. Hopefully everything will fit and I can get the middle section welded to the front section for good. I did get Vic a driveshaft ordered so he wouldn't have to worry about breaking my PVC shaft, its a rare piece ;). It should be ready next week.
  8. latoracing

    New Roof Skin

    Looks like FUN!!!
  9. latoracing

    Craig from New Zealand

    One other company that you might want to look at... https://solo-performance.com/mach-muffler-series The Mach series seemed to be another possibility plus they offer other levels of decibel lowering devices.
  10. latoracing

    Craig from New Zealand

    That bites. I would have thought they would sell individual parts.
  11. latoracing

    Craig from New Zealand

    Here are a few that I am currently using... Vic has decided to put Magaflow on his '70. Straight through design stainless construction but might be a little loud if your customer is wanting semi tame. (these will be cleaned up before going on the car cause they look horrible ) On my '70 I chose to have Spintech custom build me some of their chambered mufflers. I had them install one extra set of spin chambers in them since they are coming out the side of the car. Custom built with a price tag to match. All 304 Stainless. On my DD 2017 Mustang I installed an AWE system. Another straight through design with additional resonators. Coyote motors have a flat head firing order and the muffler placement on these cars is obviously in the rear which makes these cars sound awful with chambered mufflers. The AWE mufflers are high end stainless 304 American made with 180 degree drone canceling technology, which does work quite nicely. I'd bet these mufflers mounted in the stock '69 position would have a nice deep tone, with a Windsor motor as well. Use to be a Flowmaster lover, but got sick of the drone...
  12. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Removed the pipes from the car this afternoon to get this section welded up. I tack welded a piece of stainless angle between the inlets to help hold them in position while welding. It would be really bad if these things moved a bunch and didn't fit the headers any more. The usual skipping around method works well on pipe systems too. It keeps everything nice and cool (so I don't get burnt to pieces), less distortion and less moving of the pipes (cause I'm lazy). Just weld everything you can get to and move everything around to get to the next area. it took a little bit, but eventually I got all the joints welded shut. Once it all cooled off I removed the angle and started getting this section cleaned up. A little red scotch-brite and it will look presentable. One side almost cleaned up compared to as welded side. I like the cleaned up side without the HAZ around the welds. I'll get this bolted back on the car and continue fitting pieces of the puzzle together.
  13. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Measure, cut, tack, cut apart, repeat... fitting a 2.5" X pipe to a convertible is fun. I'm half tempted to get my rotisserie out and put this thing on it (not really, but it would be easier). Getting all the angles to work together, and keep the O2 sensor bungs in position. I am going for maximum clearance at the transmission yoke and fitment through the "tunnel" along with keeping the front portion tight to the body. The C6 cross member doesn't have much clearance for exhaust on the drivers side so I kept both sides at the same height. The pipe sticks down about 1.75" beyond the floor supports. Before I chopped up the X pipe, I laid out where I wanted it to land in the car. The trans is 1" to the drivers side and I wanted the X centered on it, basically for the yoke to clear, but I would go nuts knowing it was out of center. Getting it all butchered up and removing all of the slip joints the fitting began. If you notice in the following picture, the X is going up hill. This was really fun to calculate the angles for. I cut the back sections of tube off a little staggered, as they are fixing to switch sides next time out. Most of all the joints fit really tight but the Pypes tubing is just a little larger than the mandrel bends I was using to fit the parts. I'll get them hammered in place to smooth out the connections. I'll be removing this section to get it on the table and fry all the pieces together as it is a little more manageable in this state. Looking up from the floor, it looks quite simple...
  14. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    It is very helpful. I used it a bunch when I did my headers. Very accurate angles and nice straight cuts. All built out of leftovers...
  15. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Got started fitting tubing into its new home. I have sorta mapped out how I hope this will run, so I started with the collectors... obviously. Since I'm playing with 2.5" tube my saw guide needed a new block to help hold stuff in place. I didn't have any more UHMW so this one is out of treated lumber. It will do for now. A few measurements and several checks for the proper degree, the bends were cut to 52 degrees for both sides. The first part I cut had just the right amount of straight on it so it got tack welded to the collector and the extension. Checking for fitment on the car, it looks pretty good, not quite as high as I want it, but the trans brace is going to dictate it's location. The tube is a tad bit higher than the trans pan. I am going to cut off the slip fit on these parts as I like the clean look of butt welds, plus this slip fit is going the wrong way :) I removed the O2 sensor from the drivers side and installed it on the passenger side. Measured the straight section from the collector to the elbow, cut and tack welded it in place along with the other extension. I stuck it in place to check for fitment. So far, so good. I'll be messing with the X pipe next to do some surgery on it so it will play nice with the tight confines between the seat reinforcements and removing stupid stickers from all these parts. They don't want them coming off...