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latoracing last won the day on December 14

latoracing had the most liked content!

About latoracing

  • Rank
    V8 Powered G-Machine
  • Birthday 10/22/1969

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  • Interests
    Fixing rusty old Mustangs, Fishing, Welding


  • Location
  • Interests
    Working on Mustangs, Fishing
  • Occupation
    R+D Metal Fabricator

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  1. latoracing

    Dynacorn Rant

    I have installed numerous long pans before one piece floors were readily available. My biggest issue with welding in long pans is the tedious butt welding and grinding of the seams. I have installed them with a lap weld, which doesn't look good on the inside. All of these were done on a creeper, not fun. I love to weld, but can't justify all the work it takes when there are easier and cleaner ways to accomplish the task. If the car was some sort of concourse / RARE restoration, patching is the way to go, otherwise get the best full floor pan you can afford and avoid the generic one pan fits all model. 15 hours +/- installed full floor vs 40 + hrs for long pans... As long as the car is braced properly it will not hurt to remove the entire floor. Toe boards are interesting, especially under the steering column. If the areas are small I would just fabricate the replacement areas from flat sheet metal and butt weld them in place. If you get patch panels you'll end up making them fit and having to undo some areas that are stamped. Patch panels are usually pretty poor in fitment as they are usually cut into small pieces and lack a lot of the original panel detail. You can go with a new firewall, depending on your level of confidence and abilities. I've seen a lot of people new to bodywork put together some really nice cars using these aftermarket parts. I still like the parts Dynacorn and other vendors are stepping up to make, which is making this hobby much easier to get involved with. 20 years ago there were limited replacement aftermarket parts available and you could get some NOS parts. We are building cars now that several years ago would have been crushed due to the extensive damaged metal. Having these parts where you can buy pre-assembled floor / trunk / front frame rails, cowls, doors... is relying on someone else to weld the parts together accurately, then attempt to put them in a chassis that is 50 years old. I don't like the parts assembled, and much like the OP they have to be cut back apart to properly fit them. I'm thankful to have these parts, even though they don't work sometimes and need some fitting, cause there are more cars back on the roads instead of rusting away in some field or melted down.
  2. latoracing

    Dynacorn Rant

    I have used Dynacorn parts throughout my build, and they are much better than the parts of yester-year. I installed full quarter panels, one fit perfect the other didn't want to go on the car. With a few adjustments it fits. Installed a full cowl, radiator support rear bulk head (whatever the rear seat structure is called) trunk filler, tail light panel, both door skins, outer A pillars... the list is extensive. I wouldn't hesitate to use (and have used) Dynacorn products on several builds, and will continue using their products. They are not perfect by any means, but much better than others. NPD parts (Golden Legion I think) are good also, but probably stamped by the same metal manufacturer and re-branded. I would highly recommend using a one piece floor instead of having to weld in long pans. The above issue with the floor not fitting the transmission tunnel support is common and requires some finessing, but the factory parts did not fit that area well either.
  3. latoracing

    decided to make a frame jig

    I've been where you are, but went a little larger on the tubing (4"x4"x3/16"). I did reference major cross beams in locations to align to major areas (front cross member, front of torque boxes, forward leaf spring mounts and rear cross member). I also incorporated a bolt together and pinned design for future storage, if I ever need it. My rendition is rollable, as the 2-post lift is fantastic for loading and unloading, along with adjustable lock down feet to completely level the table. The rear mounts that bolt to the forward leaf spring areas are fixed and the forward adjustable stands are tack welded to the bottom of the frame rails. If you are going to build several Mustangs on your table, there will always be something else to add. I spent a lot of time on mine, but it has paid dividends on a couple of repairs.
  4. latoracing

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    That is looking very nice. I see a bunch of parts I could use, hummm..... Bringing this back to the shop is going to make my build jealous. Least I'll get back to playing with a FORD :)
  5. latoracing

    Car Trailer

    I had a wood bed trailer and sold it to get a metal deck, much better. From projects to cinder blocks to steel shipments, it's been through a bunch and keeps on going. I wish I had bought a 18-20 foot trailer, but this 16' dove tail hauls Mustangs just fine. I didn't do a tool box up front, but did weld up a receiver for a winch, another item that will spoil you. It has been a fantastic investment.
  6. latoracing

    1970 Grabber Green Project

    Doing quite well, and I hope you are. Thanks for the inquiry. As the reality of "nothing last forever" sets in, this site has lost a lot of valuable information with the deletion of thousands of pictures. I am not alone in this issue, and I am greatly saddened by the hundreds of hours of time lost documenting these wonderful builds. I would love to continue documenting my progress here but I am not up for the tons of hours to upload my pictures just to loose them again. A picture is worth a thousand words which should be shared with others. I may look into some type of secure hosting site, but for now, I'm going to continue building but unfortunately will not adding to this thread. I will continue to be a part of the 69stang community, and look forward to a good resolution to this issue, Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and I hope to revive it one day. Mike
  7. latoracing

    Sagging Rockers anyone?

    Yes, one of the few "thick" pieces of metal on the car I attempted to fit my outer torque box over the unmodified inner rocker, when I was installing on my '70 FB. I was lazy and didn't want to mess with the box lol.
  8. latoracing

    Sagging Rockers anyone?

    When I was playing doctor on Vicfreg's '70 convertible I had more practice with this annoying issue. You can clearly see the inner rocker sticking out from under the outer rocker. Both parts were new. Being anal, and wanting things like torque boxes to fit without modifying, the inner rocker had to be chopped up a little. The aftermarket inner rocker is welded together, and the original pieces were stamped, in the correct shape. A little trimming on the inside plate... and a small wedge removed from the formed inside part... makes things work out much better. There is a flange that I forgot to incorporate into the inner rocker to help attach it to the lower A pillar. I butt welded a strip along the top of the inner plate to fix this issue. On future installs I have a template ready to get this part quickly straightened out. Hope this explains a little Mike
  9. latoracing

    Sagging Rockers anyone?

    The bottom of the outer rocker does taper up 3/4" over a 19" area, front to back. When installing convertible inner rockers, I've had to modify the inners to accommodate this little feature. Your rockers are not sagging, just designed that way.
  10. latoracing

    It's Back! So WTF Happened?

    All mine are gone too, again... Not up for a third attempt
  11. latoracing

    Car gender?

    I agree, never understood the need to call an inanimate object by him or her. I suppose it could have to do with affection for the item. Like these old cars have feelings lol.
  12. I sent Aeromotive a quick e-mail last Friday asking if they are thinking about having a kit to install into a stock tank. They just got back with me on the inquiry... Dear Mike, At this time, no sir, we don’t have a retrofit kit available. In fact though your tank should be similar, in fact there’s no guarantee that our parts would in fact correctly fit your tank. I suppose it could be sent to us for fitment, however that could get pretty costly. Sorry, I wish I had a better answer but we appreciate your interest! Hope that helps, let us know if you need further assistance and thanks for choosing Aeromotive! Brett Clow Tech Director Well, guess that answered the question, at least for now...
  13. Wonder if they will sell just the components to retrofit into a tank? I've got an unused stainless steel tank that could use some guts lol
  14. latoracing

    Media Blasting

    Working on a '65 convertible a few years ago and went the Dust-less Blasting route. The quarters and cowl were not done, and the floor was new. Being crushed glass, it is yard "friendly" as they used several hundred pounds of media. I wouldn't exactly call it "dustless", more like less-dust. The draw back to this is the wet media is still airborne, and sticks to EVERYTHING! I spun that body on the rotisserie for a couple of hours after it dried to get rid of the built-up media that was everywhere. They do use rust inhibitors, so at least it doesn't flash rust instantly. It does a great job, a little rough in my opinion, as it took a couple of coats of epoxy primer to cover the texture. The clean-up takes quite a while, and I still have media coming out of my rotisserie. It was convenient for them to come to the house, and it was reasonable for the service provided. It would probably be OK for this type of blasting to be done on body panels, as it is cool and doesn't build heat. The finish texture will take some work to get smooth though.