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latoracing

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latoracing last won the day on November 26 2017

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About latoracing

  • Rank
    V8 Powered G-Machine
  • Birthday 10/22/1969

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Fixing rusty old Mustangs, Fishing, Welding

Converted

  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Working on Mustangs, Fishing
  • Occupation
    R+D Metal Fabricator

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  1. 69 Vert project

    The only portion of a coupe / fastback floor you would need to trim off would be the little angle that attaches to the inner rocker. The floor pan welds to the underside of the inner rocker on the convertible. Full floors are a wonderful thing, I would much rather install a one piece than patch a floor and do all the finishing work.
  2. 69 Vert project

    Looks like a fun project, that is if you are a gluten for punishment (like myself lol). Fixing the rear to accept the Sportsroof quarters looks like a really fun mod. The deck lid will have to be added to for the "duck tail". I haven't attempted it, but would like to try it one day.
  3. WTB: 1969 Tail Light Buckets

    Thanks for all the offers, you all are way too kind. Ridge Runner has fixed me up, and they are on the way.
  4. I am in need of a set of 1969 tail light buckets. They don't have to be perfect as they will be modified. Let me know if you have some and a price. (PM or Email) Thank you, Mike latoracing@yahoo.com
  5. 1970 FB Toe Board Hole Repair

    I tried Rust-B-Gone on this one, it works well. Wire brushes are another good method, just depends on the area IMO
  6. 1970 FB Toe Board Hole Repair

    I had a little bit of work to do on a '70 convertible and it needed a few patches. The picture of of the replacement part that Tom posed would make a good place to get the butt weld patches he needs to fix his floor. I personally would not put that part in as is, but fix the areas that need it. Here is a pic of the toe board sans the floor pan (and a lot of the inner rocker)after rust removal. The area right in the corner of the top of the torque box had a hole rotted in it. That portion of the torque box lid was also removed and patched. The welds ground down and the toe board was butt welded over this repair. All metal finished, and the repair should last a long time Take your time, and it will be good as new. Good luck with your repair. Mike
  7. The Bitch is Back!

    That is cool! I'd have to do something like this.... and leave the body all crunchy for a while.
  8. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    Started forming the inner portion of the bumper end and figured out the pot metal extension was all in the way. So, once again, to modify one thing leads to another and another lol. I had three pieces of my version of a quarter extension roughly shaped waiting their turn to be tweaked and trimmed. With a little tape to get the parts to stay put along with some clamps the end portion and top were stuck in place. I am seriously thinking about welding this to the quarter for a permanent (as permeant as sheet metal can be) part. There are lots of contours and lines to pick up on from the factory sheet metal. I want the contour of the deck lid to flow into the end caps along with the radius in the deck lid. I do not want to just bond the pot metal parts in place and shape with filler, this is a little more tedious. As the majority of the radius' are slight, getting the "look" just right took a bunch of trips across the shop back to the english wheel. I used my flat wheel to basically bead roll a body line in the upper portion and rough trimmed the part to fit. The side portion has a little more shape to it, with a couple of reverses to mimic the pot metal part. More trimming and it was temporarily stuck in place. A little more time with a slightly more aggressive anvil and this should fit even better. I need to borrow a contour gauge from work to verify the parts to the quarter panel and make some templates for the other side. Once all this is verified I'll get it all trimmed up and might put some tacks on it.
  9. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    I removed 1" from the part I cut off, figured it would be "easier" to line up the outside first. I tried to remove a section from the middle of the bumper end, (black sharpie marks) but that just made a mess. So, I continued to cut pieces off of it, all the flanges and the inner section became scrap. I took some 11ga and got to forming the fill-in areas for the sides. Lots of beating and bending, tack welded and hammered on it some more. After a while i had something resembling a bumper end. Once I kinda liked the shape I went and welded it together and rough trimmed it in place. In fitting it to the quarter and end cap, I made it really close so I don't have to guess where it fits. I plan on opening the gap up a little later on. I've had this end on and off countless times, I might tack weld it in place once I get to fitting the inner portion. A little grinding and it is looking a little better. I'm not totally sold on the way this is looking, the end cap to bumper doesn't flow, but there is a little more to add to the profile. Guess I'll continue in this direction. Where the valance to quarter fits, the bumper has a rather large hump that I don't like either. In fitting all this stuff really tight, and what I'm fixing to do to the quarter extensions, I'm probably going to weld the rear valance to the car. Not my favorite thing to do, but it would blend much better... I have some more forming to do to get the inner portion of the bumper fabricated, starting from flat sheet should be fun! More metal madness to come...
  10. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    It has been a very cold winter, and I'm a wimp lol. Haven't been out messing with this thing in a while, (actually been playing with the '17 , it's not stock anymore lol) Since its too cold to shoot primer on my door, I figured the back of the car needed some attention. I hate the quarter extension caps on these cars, and mine do not fit at all. So... Put my english wheel to work shaping some parts. I don't have a bead roller (YET...) so a little creativity on the wheel with a flat profile anvil I needed to get a little creative on the car with some additional shaping, but realized the bumper also needed to be in position as well. I've never fit a bumper up close, nor have I ever made mounts for said fitment. A little eyeballing, some 3/16" plate, a sharpie and a couple tack welds... it actually fits pretty close in the middle, but the outer ends are dumbo ears lol A little measuring and a cutoff wheel, gets the ends into a workable state You can see the plate I tacked in place, and the bumper end laying on the frame table. I did some chopping and a little shaping, it is going to need a lot of help. That bumper is at least 12ga, (NOS 1974 vintage) and should be fun to shape. I'm gonna try and get motivated cause I've got a bunch of forming to do...
  11. Convertible rockers

    With the way I designed my headers, the stock pans will be "slightly" in the way. I have templates to fabricate some "custom" versions, but haven't gotten back under the car quite yet. As far as your trimming of the inner rocker goes, this is how mine came out using cardboard.
  12. Convertible rockers

    The rockers on a convertible do not interfere with the seat as they are flush to the raised rear section of the floor. The rear seat in a convertible is narrower due to the top well structure. There is a little more bracing in the lower section of the convertible that interferes with a regular seat bottom fitting along with the wider rear inner quarter panel trim pieces. In installing the 'vert rockers in a coupe / sportsroof, they stop at the front of the rear torque boxes, unless you are really ambitious and install the 'vert rear torque boxes as well. I never tried to install the quarter trim pieces in my car (mini tubed) but it shouldn't be a huge modification to fit the panels, if they need trimming at all. (I have been wrong before lol) The one piece seat riser is debatable as the '69/70 cars did not use this structure upgrade. I installed it with the thoughts of running the lower seat pan reinforcements as well, so it might actually pay some dividends in structure rigidity. (I also have a multi point cage in my car) As I cut and removed a bunch of the seat riser, it might be doing nothing but adding weight to my car and my exhaust routing kept me from using the "stock" reinforcement pieces. I haven't given up on that yet. The inner rocker upgrade brings these cars into a more modern area structural level. Go out an look at the girth of most new car's rocker areas, they are huge! This upgrade is well worth the time and expense IMO MIke
  13. Aluminum and pot metal repair

    The biggest issue I see with the HTS rod is that it doesn't completely melt until it hits 737 degrees, probably too hot for pot metal applications. The Muggy weld alloy #1 melts at 350 degrees, more of a solder than a brazing rod and much more suitable for white metal applications. I'm sure the HTS has an application that it will excel at, but like everything else, one size does not fit all.
  14. Rack and Pinion Opinions

    One of the irritating design issues with the Unisteer system is access to the eccentric bolts on the LCA. I don't think you would easily access these bolts through the rather small access holes in the provided rack mount. It would be very difficult to perform any adjustments in this area. As I elected to "recreate" this mount, I incorporated slots for the LCA bolt to pass through the stock locations and through the rack mount. (you can see a bolt in the upper mount) Shims had to be machined to close the gap between the rack mount and the LCA mount. I also added a 2" x 1/4" flange to the inside portion to give the part a little more rigidity. In looking at the RRS rack, it looks to be the same basic layout Unisteer is using, (two bolts in the center of the rack connecting to the tie rods) but utilizing the stock steering component locations. http://www.rrs-online.com.au/gt-rack-and-pinion.html (comparing to http://www.unisteer.com/1965-1970-mustang/late-67-70-power-mustang-rack-and-pinion-for-big-blocks.html) As it is not replacing the crossmember with a plate, steering forces should be transmitted more directly to the frame. One thing that I do not like in looking at the RRS system, urethane mounts with U straps holing it in position. I am not understanding the need to mount the rack with urethane blocks, that could deflect with large sticky tires. I like the way Unisteer has machined aluminum blocks securely clamping the rack to the mount. I have a complete Street or Track suspension package and the Unisteer rack was recommended to me by Shaun. He runs one on his '66 dedicated track car and liked it so much, he now sells them. None of these aftermarket rack systems are fantastic, they all have their short comings and flaws. For the intended use of the vehicle and what you personally like is the choice we all have to make. Do your homework and make the choice on what fits your personal needs.
  15. 1970 Grabber Green Project

    I shaped a scrap piece of 1/4" plate and opened my vice up to about 3/8". Laid the corner on top of the open vice jaws and used the 1/4" plate as a forming tool. Hammered until it was deep enough and straightened it out by hand. Nothing fancy. The entire corner replacement took about two hours, start to finish.
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