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latoracing

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latoracing last won the day on October 16

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About latoracing

  • Rank
    V8 Powered G-Machine
  • Birthday 10/22/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Fixing rusty old Mustangs, Fishing, Welding

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  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Working on Mustangs, Fishing
  • Occupation
    R+D Metal Fabricator

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  1. When I was looking into doing some type of machined tail light bezels for my project I got to measuring the tail light panel. The panel has a fairly pronounced convex shape to it, definitely not flat, which would have been really nice. A totally flat panel would be all kinds of floppy without reinforcement. That being said, I love the 67/8 GT upgraded part and might have to go back and do some figuring on a 70 version. To 3D mill a part that large would require a fairly sizable chunk of aluminum, or rolling a sheet to the contour then machining it. Having the filler panel fit up to the stock tail light bezels might save some headache and be similar to the MACH 1 part. If you had a huge 3D printer, that would be interesting. I would think a regular 3/8" end mill would have a more pronounced rib due to the relative thin nature of this part. Might be fun to write a few lines of code...
  2. I haven't posted much of the progress lately due to the non-eventful nature of trimming and fitting the tips to the valance. This is the last fabrication portion of the long drawn out process, its almost done. Once the holes were trimmed to fit around the tips I removed the valance and started turning the flange. I didn't want to flatten out the shape of the valance with a large flange, and I really didn't want to machine a hammer form, so a little notch in a piece of round rod does the trick. Round and round... until the lip is almost 90 degrees. A little hammer and dolly work to planish out the small imperfections and it's ready to check on the car again. Back in place with the tips clamped back to the pipes, the fab work is finally done! I have to prep the tips for powder coating and there are a few brackets that also need some rust protection. Some bolts and nuts also need to be upgraded, since I was using what I had on hand. Next up... marker light delete or return fuel line...
  3. You can patch the lower portion of the quarter and butt weld it back in place. A little finishing of the weld inside and out, it will be good to go. The body line makes for a great place to install a new lower part. This happens to be a convertible, it doesn't have the sports roof body line. If you're not into this type of fix, I'd replace the entire quarter, so there would be no seam at all on the inside. This would also go well with your tail light panel replacement. Do not get the one-piece quarter fill in part, (quarter to tail light panel) they are a pain and do not line up good. Stick with the two piece.
  4. Out of curiosity, what is your labor rate? (If I can ask that type of question)
  5. As the exhaust is finally getting close to completion, I needed to address the leaf spring shackle bolt dilemma. The head of the bolt that is supplied with the urethane bushings is large, to say the least. I notched the outer portion of the tips in the hopes that they would clear, that didn't work. I ordered some new 1/2" x 4.5" flat head bolts to help with the situation. The upgraded shackle kit has 9/16" diameter bolts and sleeves for the bushings. Since I couldn't get 9/16" flat head bolt, I needed to change up some parts. I bored some new sleeves out of 3/4" round 303 stainless with the appropriate 1/2" inside diameter and trimmed them to length. I had some new shackle plates laser cut out of 1/4" 304 stainless, same dimensions as the kit parts, but sized for the new 1/2" lower bolt. I also countersunk 2ea of the plates to fit their new hardware. Getting them on the car took a little bit of work to pull out the newly installed bushings and sleeves, just to stick them back together again with the new lower sleeve and upgraded hardware. This gives approximately 3/8" clearance between the shackle and the tips. Ought to work, and they will not rust.
  6. I was able to get the drive's side adjusted to where I liked it. A little slotting of the upper bracket and all is well. I got started on the passenger side and made good progress today. With the pan-hard bar all in the way I couldn't fit the sections without chopping and re-welding the supplied tail pipe. It wouldn't have fit anyway as it was meant to exit under the valance. A little chopping some fitting and tacking we have the second side. Which also receive it's fair share of red scotch-brite cleaning. Sticking everything back under the car it looks like it should work. I have to remake the upper bracket on this side due to the different routing, such is life. With everything self supporting I took a picture laying on the floor looking up. It's getting there. Least all the major components are in place, just need a few more brackets and some flanging on the valance.
  7. I edited my post to delete the "free" shipping. Haven't received any notification as of yet, but I'm sure they will be in contact with me.
  8. I was out shopping for some pieces for a couple of different projects and came across this sale at Mustangs Unlimited. It looks like they are liquidating their in stock inventory and they have some good deals. I scored a original tooling hood for 50% off. I will have to go back and do a more through search for more items but if you're able to find something in stock, you might save some cash. Happy shopping!
  9. Finished getting all the brackets drilled out and reinforced. Installed everything back on the car and tack welded the support bracket to the tail pipe reinforcement. It was welded in place on both sides then spruced up with a little red scotch-brite. I installed everything one more time and true to form, things shrink when you weld it. The tip sits about 1/4" too high so I'll have to do some adjustments to get it where I want it. I am pleased at how firm the two isolators hold everything in place. Fingers crossed for no rattles. With the little issues just about done on the extremely tight drivers side, I'm gonna enjoy a little more freedom on the passenger side.
  10. It has been a while since I have posed up some progress on this. Been dealing with some serious family issues over the summer. Now that everything is returning to normal, I'm back at it. One of the exciting (least I think so) that was done is the sending unit with the return line already installed. The one I ordered was for a 67-8 (shorter float rod) that had to be slightly modified to work with the larger '70 tank. Swapping the arms from the supplied unit to the return style was fairly simple. This is much better than the bulkhead fitting I was fixing to drill and install. Still haven't finished up the driver's side tail pipe yet. I sampled a bunch of different hanger designs for this area and finally settled on a solution that I'm confident will work. I do not want these tips hitting the valance once everything is in place, so they need to be securely held. I am going to use two of the silicone isolators per side to keep them in place. I also do not want the pipe to crack where the hanger is welded in place, so a little creative reinforcement was conjured up and welded in place (after a bunch of test fitting of course) The 3/8" block that is tacked to the bracket is a stand-in for the blue isolators while fitting this together. Putting this back on the car, the bracket with its spacer is clamped to the upper bracket on the car, then I removed it, drilled it and reinstalled it to check for proper fitment. I forgot to add, I did install a plate into the frame rail to utilize the factory exhaust mount location. It was a fun project to fish that plate into position. I've got to drill out the holes in the lower bracket before I can weld it in place and finish the upper bracket to give it a little more rigidity. The passenger side has duplicate brackets already cut out, plus that side has tons of clearance. Getting closer...
  11. Vic's '70 vert was missing the driver's side torque box when he got it, along with pretty much everything else on the driver's side. Hope your's isn't as bad as this lol.
  12. Nice to see another Grabber Special on the forum. Mine was no where near as nice as what you're staring with and the rebuilding has been slow over the past couple of years. I'll be watching to see what upgrades you are making. I like it!
  13. All the tedious fun of fitting parts together and getting them trimmed is behind me. The inner tube was all fitted on the second tip but before I could tack them together I needed to put a notch in the side to clear the shackle bolt. A little more trimming along with the fill-in part these were all tack welded together. I also measured out a reducer to go from the 3" tube down to the 2.5" tube, trimmed it for the notch and tacked it. It was time to get down to the welding portion... finally. I started with the inside as it was the hardest to get to. I did the usual 2x the normal amount of filler rod on all the seam as they will be ground flush pretty much everywhere. The welds look awful but they will sand nicely. I'm sure I'll have several places to touch up, just part of making things pretty. I pretty much killed my afternoon getting all the seams welded up and ready for the cleaning phase. Onto the finishing...
  14. Had to finish up a job that is going to be picked up in a couple of days, with that behind me, its tip time. As I have had several days to think about how to build these, things went rather smoothly this afternoon. I needed to start off by trimming the inner 2.5" tube to the same radius of the 3" tube. They were stuck together and marked for trimming. I used some 3/16" round rod for spacers that are taped to the inner tubing. After a little material removal the pins were taped back in place. I didn't know if this next portion would work in one piece or not, but I had to try. Using the 3" tube as a bending guide I bent the 1/4" rod into a workable shape. A little tweak here and there along with a few trimmings the rod was welded together, Surprisingly out of one continuous piece. Taping the parts together it looks like it might just work. I need to do the final touch-ups on the ring and finish trim the inner tube. One down one to go...
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