Leaderboard

Well I finished my rebuild and ran it today for the first time. I ended up installing a new correct flex plate which is a different bolt spacing to the original and the torque converter wouldn't fit. As this is the correct flex plate I bought a new torque converter which is substantially larger and 2500rpm stall. Engine was rebuild +.020 with 2V heads (were 4V) and some other bibs and bobs. Spent way more than I wanted to. ……………….It runs like a top. No vibration and more power. I also installed an electric fuel pump and my starting problems are gone. Definitely a worthwhile venture. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I wish I could pinpoint exactly what was the cause of the vibration but very happy it's gone.

the guy who painted my car did the same thing, everyone asked "did you run out of paint?" so this was my fix. Problem solved :-)

Been a while since I posted an update. Mike and I have got the entire back of the car welded together, the floor pan fitted, and subframe connectors installed. Also, moved the seatbelt connection points back 3” to allow the seats to move back for big guys like us!

Hallo Guys, After hours spent on this forum getting inspirations, searching for ideas and how to’s, I’m sharing my project too. Mustang was my childhood dream, and I finally got mine in 2013. I knew it wasn’t perfect, but it’s not easy to buy one for small budget in Europe and especially in here Slovakia because of complicated procedure to register car like this. I drove the car for 2 years, but I had no chance to pass the technical inspection in 2015, so I decided instead of only repairing – rebuild this car as it deserves. I started with disassembly in spring 2016 and over a year I had no time to move forward. Finally this autumn I finished work around the house and I’m in garage again.

Latest 1969 article for one of our builds. He brought it to us with suspension in it. We did all the body work and painting plus put most of it together. http://www.mustangandfords.com/features/0119-woodward-dream-cruiser-1969-mustang-sportsroof/

Just wanted to check in. I poke my head in on occasion but stay busy on the truck groups. Anyway I still have the 69 Grande. She lives in the garage. The current project is a 68 f100. Crown Vic front suspension, explorer rear, efi 351w, 4r70w. Building the motor right now. Anyway, here’s some pics. Check out my Instagram @ericmreimer

Very impressive on the framerails.

Deflection is inversely proportional to the moment of inertia of the shape (profile/cross-section of your material); not only thickness and height. According to some online moment of inertia calculators, your example tubing has moment of inertia of 261525 mm^4; your example flat bar has moment of inertia of 83333 mm^4. So your example flat bar has less moment of inertia (about 4 times less) and it will deflect more under same load. You need about 50x25mm flat bar to have almost same moment of inertia of your example tube. On your previous post you said "As for the twisting motion, replacing the rear leaf spring suspension with something else might actually help too." Twist happens between front and rear suspension attach points, so you have to tie right front to left rear, left front to right rear to reduce twist; replacing rear suspension to 4 link etc does not accomplish this. In that video they added a hat section, not a flat bar and welded it to the inside of the rocker and created another tube inside the rocker that will reduce the deflection/sagging but not help much with twist.

looks like he had fuel injection. ill bet the fuel pump kept going after the crash and he probably didnt have an inertia switch.

got my grandson working too. child labor ! I painted the valve covers and plenum blue, now after it cures ill try to DA the ribs to expose the aluminum.

I got some good news today, I got a call from my engine re builder & he says the engine is finished. He has an appointment next Wednesday with the dnyo to have it run to check for leaks, check oil pressure, & get me HP output. Maybe I might have it back by next Friday. (fingers crossed). :)

I found a post on VMF by Klutch that modifies HF's parts washer to add an electric water heater element. He found that Oil Eater works OK when cold but very well when heated. I took his lead and added a few more modifications to make parts the washer easier to use and last longer. See the attached Word.doc. This was written in LibreOffice on a Ubuntu operating system and then converted to Word. I opened it on a Windows machine and all was fine for me- I hope for you too. Parts washer.doc

Mine would have looked just like yours out of the factory.

Smoky burnouts wouldn't have anything to do with it, would they?

Happy 50th darlin! Born on January 22, 1969 in Milpitas Ca. A pic of her as I'm trying to figure out why she keeps destroying rear main seals.

Build date Jan 16, 1969 Brakes Bled, timing set (still runs rough). First time out of the garage in 7 years! Did a shadetree alignment and drove her around the block. Had a lot of squeaks like maybe I did not install bearings right or something. Looking into trailering her to a shop for alignment, checking those squeaks and fine tuning it.

In a post I had mentioned that I modified my UCAs for more caster and a few members asked me how I did that. I was doing it on my 69 Grande recently and below are some pictures showing the modification. Moved the ball joint mounting holes 20 mm aft. If my memory serves me right, when I had done the math to get +4 caster and ended up with 20 mm. May be someone can do the math using stock spindle geometry and verify that moving upper ball joint 20 mm increases the caster +4. So, moving the ball joint holes 20 mm aft. Used a card board to trace the original holes and big hole for ball joint, then moved them 20 mm on the card board. Then made a template from the card board and made the steel doubler that is welded to the surface the ball joint is attached. The doubler was a piece of scrap sheet I had that was the same thickness as the UCA metal. Drilled the original and new (moved) ball joint mounting holes on the doubler. Used the original holes to attach the doubler to the UCA using bolts and nuts. had to slice the aft side of the UCA so the doubler will slide in. Welded the doubler and drilled the moved holes to UCA using the holes on the doubler. Had to cut the egg shaped top part and move that to rear so ball joint will fit. Need to trim some areas so ball joint grease fitting fits and is accessible.Then welded and braced everything. Had done this mod on my 70 Grande a few years ago on a 3 bolt ball joint UCA. 3 bolt UCA is a little less work to modify. As far as I remember, I have +6 or +7 caster on my 70 Grande with stock strud rods and stock LCA.

Actually would not be very difficult. Not sure if it would be frowned upon if you started modeling original Ford parts. However probably would be more accurate than the re-pop crap that is sold for good money that’s for sure!

A few weeks back I took my Mustang and Challenger along to my Son's school, as there was a car show being held there. Here's a photo of the cars:

picked up my car from the shop, the car flies with 3:50's lol lovin this ford 9" and also got my stereo installed, I can finally listen to music now and not just the wind blowing in my hair.

That's a good video. At the beginning at 0:28 he talks about beaming and torsioning testing and that most SFCs are just good for "ballast in the boot after you cut them up". If aslanefe, our resident aeronautical engineer will chime in here (I'm an electrical engineer and didn't deal much with structures) he could tell you how thick a single plate of steel would need to be to equal the strength of a rectangular steel tube. I'd rather not revisit my college days in my retirement to look that up. If you notice, starting at 3:35 they welded in a hat shaped beam, turning it into a rectangular steel tube. Good stuff, and it is further verification of the torsion test shown much earlier in this string. SFCs without bracing from side to side do next to nothing for torsion.

Expanding on that idea, open a beer. Pour 1/2 of beer in hole in top of hood. Observe for acorn to be "passed". Drink the other 1/2 beer. Repeat as necessary.

Built at Milpitas 12/26/69.

Okay, I have a decision to make. I have the piping sizes and layout done. Now I need to decide what to use. I have been pricing out copper, as it is readily available and recommended as a clean solution. My total spend is coming up to $135 with all tubing, flux, solder, joints, etc. for 40 feet of 3/4" copper and 4 attachment points. All in all, good setup at a minimal cost... assuming I can solder it (I assume I can). Now the other day I came across Rapid Air Maxline kits... 100' of 3/4" tubing and a variety of parts to do 3 outlets. More tubing, less attachment points, $139. To get the 4th attachment (and go through the wall like I planned), I would need 5 more right angle fittings, another outlet kit... damn that's like another $130 right there. To save what... soldering? You know what, I think I just answered my own question.

Removed the radiator support, Inner fender apron, and cowl....