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Just finished my tree decoration.

i dont know if anyone watched that golden glob crap, but Ricky Gervais is the man, watch as every hollywwod ahole crawls out of their skin in outrage. They dont like when they are the ones being mocked.

Generally this is a sad point of life, but as we age we get shorter. This could work in your benefit. Maybe in another 20 years you will fit fine in the car?

Thanks for the welcome. Looks like a lot of cool projects...not sure why I never came across your site before?? You are correct, the wheel base is a little different and the body is wider. I widened the quarters and front fenders then split the inner door and widened them. The doors are stock '70 length but are taller than stock. I can post specific pictures of them latter today or you could see the entire project on Mustangs to Fear Forum page. I'm building this car because I prefer the old school look but like the modern conveniences that come with the 09 (drive train, suspension, brakes, lighting, A/C, etc). I love the challenges that go with it and am doing it for fun. After completing the body, I decided not to go with the stock 09 dash and wanted to build the interior from scratch except I'm using a headliner from Mustangs to Fear. My dash is basically done and now I'm working on the rear seat area. My plan will be to wrap a lot of it with leather. I've included a couple more recent pictures of it.

I wanted to show a little bit of the metal finishing process, at least what the area looks like while finishing the welds and related distortion. The "proud" profile of the weld is almost leveled to the panel surface with a 36 grit rollock disc. The 36 grit cuts really fast and does not introduce a lot of heat back into the panel. A 120 grit disc would also remove the weld tops, but will get really hot, we don't want that. Once the tops of the welds are knocked down a flat faced body hammer and the heal side of a body dolly are used to give shape back to the weld areas. As the welds cool, they shrink, so they have to be stretched back out. It takes a little bit to get the shape in the general area then I switch to a slapper with the same dolly to spread out the blows. I use the stripper disc to go over the area to give contrast to the high and low spots. I meant to get some blue layout dye to really show this. At this point I use nothing other than hand files to level the metal. I start with a bastard cross cut flat file to highlight the areas to focus on. Paying attention to the welds, as they are the offending material that needs to be removed, and bringing up the low spots, the slapper and dolly are used to continue to bring out the material. I cannot access the back side of the quarter with a hammer, that would be much easier. Lots and lots of light rapid hits and "block sanding" the area with the file the metal starts to look better. As the seams disappear, I move to the rear (left of the picture) to continue to get out the low spots. You can see the small divots or porosity in my welds from the paint contamination. They do not go all the way through, so I did leave these imperfections. More slapping and checking with the file I needed a reset on the finish to see lighter imperfections in the surface. Using the stripper disc again and switching to a mill file, the area was gone over again. There is one little place (about the size of a pencil eraser) left to planish out in this picture. I can continue to perfect the surface towards the top, but these areas are so small, a skim coat of filler will be used anyway, so it will be left. You can get this entire surface like this using the same method. Start to finish on this fill in has taken 3 hours. Back to welding up the other side...

Wow, unbelievable. Bigmal on the forum said that the fires were close and smoke in the air for weeks.

I put a straight edge on it last night and it still looks like they will fit. There is a good 3/4” gap between the straight edge and the fender lips. At worst I’ll have to roll the lips which is no big deal but it all depends on how wide of a tire I go with.

Repop moulding set does not include the clip F, but as far as I remember has the middle clips, rivets to attach them and clips that looks like E.

Engine Spaghetti , fuse panel, computer and battery to be mounted behind the rear seat

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=113237533476274&id=105020074298020

Still doing a bit of finishing off with the conversion. The original plastic cover that goes around the steering column no longer fits so I had to make one. I chose steel because it’s easiest to work with. I’d hate to be paying me by the hour. Probably 40 hours in this. I’m a bit slow and drink too much. Pretty happy with how it turned out

Usually what happens is a kid once climbed on the roof ,or someone put something heavy on the roof ,the ones around the edge are probably SOB dents ,thats when the car dies on the free way for no particular reason and you get out and pound your fists on the roof shouting YOU DIRTY SOB!

thank you, that was very instructive

Mike and I finished restoration of the steering column. Forgot how complicated and aggravating that reassembly can be! But we got it.

They will work on 1970 Mustangs. The key for the 70s is that you need to replace the side marker bulbs with my isolated LED side marker lights. Check the link below. https://vintageleds.com/1970 Since the side markers are tied to the running lights and turn signals, you will need the isolated LEDs for the front and the rear. Thanks Gary

Having both ends of the line flared to 37* you can connect them with...

I'd piss on that deal.

My original 3/8" hard fuel lines (2 pieces from the tank to the original mechanical fuel pump) already had the bubble flares at the ends. Put the clamps behind the flares like they were on the original hoses. Used EFI clamps on EFI hoses instead of the spring clamps that were original or the worm gear clamps.

Always love seeing Buckeye's Stock appearing "As ford should have built them Frame Rails" Man those are killer and I'm considering doing a set like that on my sons 68 Coupe I am building.

Made a couple of side marker templates for the bed and front fenders.

I know we have quite a few friends and forum members down under. Hoping and praying that you and families and friends are safe from the fires we have all see on the news here. If there are things that you urgently need, post that here, and will try to get some assistance to you somehow. Vic

I would consider using All Metal by U.S. Chemical. It is a metal-fortified filler often used as a lead filler replacement. Hope this helps!

Get another one, even the inside curve near the tail light looks wrong.

oh no, i defiantly would, but id hate me for it :-)

Isn't Radiator Springs in the Disney flic Cars?

someone should make a poster of this pic and put it up the next time she's flapping her yap in congress. Im sure that dipshit would be taken seriously.

I understand Marco is no longer at K of T and their quality has suffered lately. Just passing along info I read elsewhere.

found it, says you have 3. do you have a really clean one that wont need much especially after its media blasted. BTW, love your tag line that says Chevy Sucks :-)

Thanks, RPM. I might have fallen off because I haven't been very timely in posting. Been a busy few months of work. I considered not getting the sway bar, but as I remember, it would have been quite a bit more expensive to add it later, so I went ahead and bought it. I bought the drop brackets for the TCP control arms, so yes, I did the drop without drilling the shock towers.

Raptor Liner on the back half of the car. I really like how it turned out. Not hard to work with once you figure it out and pretty forgiving. Color is actually black. Just a strong flash. With the carrier installed and ready to weld. This is why I sprayed the liner first. I like the contrast. I used the Raptor spray can to touch up. This is closer to the actual color.

yep, seriously bent. Welcome to the site. Make yourself at home

3 holes (one smaller than the other 2) on the fwd side of the circled holes; I attached my home made bracket to 2 bigger holes. The nuts welded sheet is long and the smaller hole was used to secure the sheet in place so it won't fall off if I remove the exhaust bracket. It was a little time consuming to do it this way but looks symmetric and no extra holes drilled.

On my original single exhaust, 9" diff 69 Grande, outboard hole is for the clip that secures the diff vent rubber hose. End of the vent hose goes inside the frame/support the hole is on at the aft side of it; if your picture was taken from behind the car, you would have captured he hole which vent hose goes in. I think they put the end of the vent inside a closed area to eliminate dirt etc entering the hose/diff. The other 3 holes close to each other does not exist on mine. Don't know if they make a bracket for left side, but I made a mirror image of the exhaust bracket on the right side using about 1/8" thick sheet and attached it to left side at the same location (on left side). I think I had to fish in (through the shock nut opening in the trunk) a piece of flat sheet with nuts welded on them so I can bolt the home made bracket to.

I used 3 point belts from Juliano's Hot Rod Parts on my '69 Mach 1. No complaints. Work great. Color matched the new upholstery. I weigh 270 and they fit fine. There was a video of them installing these belts in a '70 Mach 1 as I recall. Dave R.

The material is 16ga 304 Stainless Steel cut into a 3/4" wide strip. I haven't measured any of this yet, but I get 3 clamps out of a 8" strip. Trimming is required on each piece. The first bracket I did was by eye from a 90 degree bend and step breaking the radius' on either side. The tooling was done with my porta-band saw and some files.It makes it nice since the bends are basically one motion, minus the 90 degree flange for the bolt. Its tricky to get it started (more eyeballing required) and once the flange and radius are formed it gets turned around and clamped back in place and the second bend is accomplished. Comparing one of the "quick" tabs to the first attempt looks pretty close. For these clamps to actually clamp they are adjusted with two welded together 3/8" 1018 solid rods I fixed up when I thought about building these. I place it in the vice and hammer the ends of the clamp tight to the rods. The clamp has to be slid out the side for it to come off, which will make sure the fuel lines will stay in place without moving. A little drilling and some de-burring is all that's left. Repeat as necessary

Making good progress. Done with welding sheetmetal and finished fitting panels. Painted undercarriage with a red Epoxy primer. Going to spray Lizard skin sound deadener on the floor pans then start block sanding.

RPM speaks the truth. They are higher. My only question is why get in a convertible when the top is up? :)

Sooner or later we could run out of states, unless of course Trump gets in again :)

Coming close to lawlessness and disorder next month, New Yorkers, ask Santa for ammunition this Christmas :-) here are some nice pics of the climate idiots i get sent, hopefully their 15 min are almost up!!

Making great progress on the engine. Will be ready to drop in soon!

A model of the car as I got it, my daughter had it made for a Xmas present

Well, you know the saying; if you want something done right, do it yourself.

The problem is there isn't enough decent Demorats, their all about killing the unborn and open boarders .

Posting in The Garage doesn't have to be about Mustangs brother. Hey Rob, you sure that ain't from California? When did the good guys become the bad guys, and vice versa? The Po Po recently recovered a stolen pistol of mine, and the hoops I had to jump thru to get it back would make your head spin. I know it made mine. Here's a small example, if I also wanted to get my stolen ammo back, I would have to do more paperwork thru an FFL dealer. All my stolen stuff was mine legally. Already purchased and registered. Ya, I don't get it either. These libs have lost their minds, and it's the honest citizens who will suffer. So nobody thought of revamping the bail system, and the only option was to eliminate it? Give me a fu€king break. The bad guy who shot me and my partner when I was a copper did a whopping 6 years. And he had priors. Texas is looking better every day. I need a drink. And I don't drink :)

Great work Ridge Runner. Maybe it's Halloween, but i see a Donald Duck mask.

Reminds me of a flattened "Donald Duck"

Heading off for exhaust, glass, alignment, and AC charge. Then back home for final assembly (looking forward to my Mustang to Fear seats!!)

It's been a while. Work has been crazy and when the photos all disappeared, I was a little demotivated. So in the past year, I stripped and refinished the engine compartment. Self-etching primer, then gray primer. Then semi-gloss black.

LOL . I would probably go for second gear only to open the door and fall out . I think Dynacorn has conversion dashes now .

Hi guys, thanks for the thoughts. As far as Australia goes with the drought at the moment there certainly are large areas of Australia that barren wasteland sounds about right. Although typically in spring most of the areas green up and only dry out towards the end of summer. The last couple of years has been really tough for all those in the land. While this drought is extreme Australia typically has periods of drought and then rain. One of the big issues apart from the fires is that a lot of country towns are running out of water. Sydney has severe restrictions on water use as well. Can only hope that the drought breaks soon.