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I will just leave this here

Those bolts are impossibly from GM. They are not completely rusted through...

I believe someone with balls once said "a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do" . Might have been Clint Eastwood or John Wayne.....but not sure if they told that to their wife with mustang parts all over the dining room though.

Oh it does matter! You always want to remove the negative battery cable first. If you remove the positive cable first, you introduce a chance of slipping the wrench onto the fender, causing a dead short and welding the wrench to the fender and your hand will get very very burned. Safety first! Always remove the negative battery cable first. That is the choice as well for measuring parasitic current draw.

A 56 Ford fairlane toy .paid a whole $1,000 fer it. It came with boxes of parts .The body has one dent ,more of a ding .All the stainless is dent free. The floors are rust free but have been painted black at one time or another..the only thing i can find that is funky is the floor shifter patch some one splatter welded in ,not a problem i can fix that.there is two of just about everything so no problem locating parts . It doesnt look pretty but it is very straight and clean ,This one is going to be fun .

I said I was sorry. Let it go already.

Not really ,you would be surprised at some of the things i have seen on these cars . Someone just found some GM bolts and used them because it was easier than finding the correct bolts

You have a car right? Just make a mock-up from cardboard using your car, then transfer it to steel sheet and cut, paint, install.

Great stuff Mac! You going to the Gosford Museum made me look into the origin of Gosford. I live around the corner from a railroad stop and road named Gosford in Bakersfield California. My Gosford was founded by the Southern Pacific Railroad in 1893 and named in honor of the Earl of Gosford, former landowner. Gosford was unincorporated community in Kern County, California.[1] It is located on the Southern Pacific Railroad 7 miles (11 km) southwest of Bakersfield Your Gosford was named in 1839 after Archibald Acheson, 2nd Earl of Gosford – a friend of the then Governor of New South Wales George Gipps. So now you know the rest of the story Mac. Where's Paul Harvey when you need him? :)

When I was 17 I was painting my car and it was a bit damp in the garage. I sprayed the doors in the lounge room. Mum wasn't impressed. Luckily I was using acrylic and not enamel. If I tried that now I would be going through another divorce.

Well it fits. Needs some adjustments, but good so far...

C'mon man!

I've got a mate who has a thing for ugly chicks. Reckons they're grateful. Maybe it's that way with unloved coupes.

agreed. Dimmer switches are notorious for being bad. I would try swapping that out first.

I've gotten the lower dash, steering column and fold down seat parts painted. After 2 weeks of paint curing, I started to assemble the dash.

Here are a few pics from Brooklands American Day yesterday. Brooklands was the first racing circuit, created in 1907. Lots of American cars there and a few 69 Mustangs:

Forgot to tell you, last Sat my car the Dodge Charger was invited to the Gosford car museum for a concourse judging show. The car won a prize against Ferrari 's and other European cars , was stoked. That sort of show is not me.Here is pic of the car Window glass in and new disc rotors being fitted.They are balanced and black special coating.

Before I converted my car over to a factory Tach dash, I had a hidden switch tied into the ignition switch of the original non-tach dash harness. If you tried to start the car with the switch ON you would blow a fuse (that was hidden elsewhere), you would then have to find & replace that fuse and turn the switch off before you could start the car. Pretty sure the switch connected the start circuit to ground and the fuse was in the line going to the starter relay. Don't think anyone ever tried to steal my car, but I certainly went though a lot of fuses as I forgot to turn the switch off myself quite often !! Did not want to butcher a perfect Tach harness (unlike my original harness that had previous repair work done), so I did not swap the switch / fuse set up over when I converted. This was back in the mid-80's and I'm pretty sure I got this idea from a magazine article and had a copy of it, but had no luck finding it in my old papers. Doug

West Coast Classic Cougars has a sale on all cooling system parts with code # COOL17 Good video on it also when you look at the 3 core radiator.

Anyone know the correct color for the 69 power steering pump? I was once told it was a chysler color (blue). Is it a metallic paint? Thanks!

that stamp is probably from a rebuilder. the correct color depends on the mfg plant but most common is yis metallic dark blue with a hint of green to it . . nor ford did use a chrysler color although a gm color may be very close. unless you are going for points judged concours, i would just get some aerosol exterior body color lacquer from an auto store. if you want concours, use PPG DAR 12366.

love it

Nice fab work there.

It moves a chunk of weight from the front of the car to the rear, making for better launches at the drag strip and better weight distribution on a road course. It also makes for a cleaner looking engine compartment.

Mine was a Daniel Carpenter, my trim went down ok, use plenty of sealer.

Bigmal: have an adult beverage on us! That'll make you feel a whole lot better!

Every now and then you have a win. My tail lights were shot, bid for a set on e bag from a deceased estate and the only owe me $100 aud landed here to me. Just cleaned em up and they are really nice , complete with buckets which are mint, so i fitted them. Also repaired my fender splash shield which was cracked but all there.

When finished? Heck, it's a real nice car right now.

Here are a couple of links with brackets. Alternator bracket, repro from NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/bracket_alternator_upper-145979-1.html Power Steering Pump Bracket from West Coast Classic Cougar: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9oz-3k505-a.html Alternator bracket from West Coast Classic Cougar: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9ze-10a336-a.html?attribs=88 You will need a shorter bolt for the alternator pivot. Do not transfer that 1/2" bolt long spacer on the power steering pump to the 351W. The new 351W PS bracket takes up that thickness. All your other 302 brackets should transfer to the 351W. FYI: If you are not using headers, the 351W has different exhaust manifolds than the 302.

Here's a good video

According to my Mustang by the Numbers book by Kevin Marti: There were 128,451 coupes built (118,610 65A; 5,208 65B; 4,128 65C; 505 65D) There were 25, 740 coupes built with a 250 -I6 There were 40,150 coupes built with AC. ------------------------------------------------------------------ So about 31.25% of coupes had AC -- Taking 31.25% of the 250-I6's would be about 8,045 cars. It's probably less than that since folks buying a I-6 were probably not as spendy as the V8 buyers and didn't get expensive options, so it's maybe as rare as the GT package (6,694 built)? However, the survival rate is probably small today, given the lack of respect for sixes and their parts over the years, so in 2017 it's probably a pretty hard-to-find setup. (I'm not sure how the I-6 A/C setup would have varied from the 302 small block, if at all) Yes, I'm a geek who likes crunching numbers :) BTW, there were 33,191 Fastbacks built with the 250 engine - 96 were the E Package

I throw my tools at the damn kids on my front lawn.

Those are the correct bulbs - 13007-A (3-prong) outboard and 13007-B (2-prong) inboard - so that's not your problem. A couple more things to check: If the high-beam and ground leads are swapped on the 3-prong connector to the outboard bulb, it will cause the problem you're seeing. A bad relay on the low beam circuit, try swapping in another one (or swap the high and low relays) and see if the problem persists. Good luck, electrical problems can be frustrating.

When the transformator inside the tach burns out, the car won't start.

Any of you follow the NHRA pro tour? I drove altered's, Super Stock, Funny Cars, Top Fuel dragsters for a career in my youth. I've been watching Indy all weekend Funny Cars running 3.79 et at 339 mph in a 1000' amazing. They're running faster in 330' than I did in a 1/4 mile. I sure miss the adrenaline rush & smell of nitro but honestly after seeing in person 10,000 hp plus cars I don't think I have the b_lls to get in one anymore. The last one I drove was a nostalgia funny car running 6.50 et 244 mph that was quite a while ago.

Watch that video in my previous post. Pump the brake pedal 5-6 times engine off keep foot on pedal start car pedal should move slightly with vacuum boost assist.

Happy fathers day guys That's a pretty nice hint more fishing is on the cards for you, Mal. hehe. Getting closer to that time of year again though. Once the wind dies down I'll be back at it myself. Did everything int he window mech manage to straight back out for you, Mac? Gees that is frustrating but I hope the internals aren't too effected. Not going to be fun chasing replacements of those if need be.

I'd say you're correct because of the position of the white letters on the tires, the concrete and the shape of the shadow.

Looking really good. Are you solid mounting the motor to the frame. Or is the some wiggle room in the exhaust that I am not seeing. I had really tight clearance on my exhaust near the transmission mount. After about 2 Months of driving it. The bolts holding the flange from the header to the pipes Loosened themselves up and wobbled out the holes. It took me forever to figure out what caused it. I found it because the exhaust pipe rubbed all of the paint off of my transmission mount. I had to cut a notch into my transmission mount so that the exhaust was not hitting during heavy acceleration. Plus it got rid of the vibration that I spent forever trying to track down.

Came across this add on CL. Had to look due to 'Movie' car. But not sure on this car that adds to the value. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/movie-car-hand-autographed/6243612492.html

Makes a lot of since. I recently replaced my wheel with a new reproduction.

I wouldn't say your motor is worn to the point of needing a rebuild. Oil pressure at hot idle in gear is toward the low side. I would double check that with a mechanical gauge. I have had Ford and GM oil pressure gauges read incorrect with particular brand sending units. I have had good luck with Standard brand oil pressure sending units in Fords. The oil you are using is good. The 10W-30 viscosity is a little low for that older motor. Valvoline doesn't have a racing 10W-40 motor oil. Also, does that Valvoline oil have enough ZDDP for flat tappet cam motors? I switched to the Lucus Hot Rod and Classic Car 10W-40 oil. I like it much better than the Valvoline VR Racing oil. Plus it has ZDDP for flat tappet cams and is also made to cling to surfaces which helps motors that sit for long periods of time. As far as oil consumption, you might not believe this, but to the best of my knowledge Ford and GM will state 1 qt. every 1000 miles is normal. Maybe that's to avoid replacing motors under warranty, I don't know. Conventional oils will "burn" more than synthetic oils. That doesn't mean the engine is using oil. What this means is the additives to conventional oils evaporate at lower temps than synthetic oils. Thus, as the additives evaporate the oil level drops.

First picture is the tilt column mechanism. As I recall, when the turn signal switch is assembled on top of the mechanism, the green part on the bottom of the turn signal switch in the picture sits on top of that U-shaped heavy bent wire. When you move the turn signal switch, and it presses down on that U Shaped item, it compresses the springs in the tilt mechanism, and releases the detent/locking lever that is in the front of the picture. This release the column to tilt. The nylon sleeve on the turn signal lever provides a fulcrum spot for the lever to operate the tilt mechanism. The upper housing for the tilt columns is totally different than the standard housings. Unlike some of the GM models, Ford only used one lever to do both the tilt function and the turn signal function. The second picture shows the 2 directional switch assemblies. The tilt column is on the left. The third pictures shows the tilt column directional switch lever, which has the nylon sleeve on it.

I don't know anything about the gauge brand but the sensor is the Bosch so probably ok.

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine... http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

Super nice write up. Congrats Bozo, sorry, Randy! LOL Keep them Mustangs rolling! G

I cheated and bought the Harbor Freight version ,actually works quite well ,it could stand a finer finish on the anvils and the wheel .It could also stand a bit of reinforcement to stop deflection ,although there really isn't that much on thinner metals . Looks like a fun project and if i had access to the machinery to build i probably would have done the same thing so keep the pics coming ...oh ,and wait until you roll your thumb through the wheel

I haven't seen a stamp like that. I did have a local place make an "OK" stamp for me to replicate the stamp on the driver's side valve cover, cost me $10. I would be willing to bet there's a local place that could do that for you too. Matt

Right you are Daddisgrl, I am lucky. Have yet to hear someone say they're glad they sold an older Ford. 67/68 FB's are cool.