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I am going to go ahead with the 69 hood with a 71 ram air top skin ,this will be a steel hood and later pull a mold so i can make them in fiberglass. I peeled the top skin off the 69 hood ,had a lite rust film in the inside of the underbracing so i took my little sand blast pot to it in a small spot just to see how it would clean up . It cleaned up very well with no pitting so this under brace is good to go . This is a very straight underbrace ,i will finish blasting it then i will epoxy primer before i put the 71 73 top on . I used my small angle grinder and ground through the edges of the 69 top ,the fold over only had 3 spot welds and two of them didnt hold .the peak of the hood had about 8 spot welds that i ground through and the top skin just fell off ,the glue ford had used let go a long time ago .

Bob, Yes, I still have times where I miss that car. I had it set up really well and being that is was a plain Jane 302 fastback I didn't mind mods to it. Also, I still find myself thinking I have a tool that was lost in the fire. I did buy this with the insurance Money from the car. As the picture shows, it was from Florida. NY does not have palm trees. It was from a collector that passed away. It was a really nice car, but it never really felt like it was mine since it was already restored. Plus, the motor must have had 11:1 or more compression since it would ping even with the best gas I could find. The estate guy told me they ran 100 octane in it. So.... I sold it about two months ago. I am not kidding when I say it took only 20 minutes to sell it on Craigslist. I couldn't believe it. Ended up getting this about a month ago. 67 GT Cougar. Early production car. Got it from an original family out of Colorado. It is probably the most original Mustang/Cougar I have ever owned. XR-7's hadn't come out yet but the guys aunt put about every other option in it. It even has a working tilt away wheel. I've been really enjoying this car, nothing feels like a big block car. Jim

Oh ,roof spoiler ,a little work on the front valance ,and we are mad Max ,yeah!

The agreement I’ve had with my brother was, I’d build his car, but he would need to finish building the mtr. This is what I sent him tonight, lol

Your 600 CFM Holley likely has an electric choke. They work good, but, one drawback of electric chokes is they cool and reset faster than the engine cools. After sitting an hour or two the choke might be closed again, then plus some pumping of the throttle causes the engine to flood. One other possibility is when sitting for an hour or two with a hot engine, the fuel in the carb bowls heats up, percolates and drips into the motor through the circuits inside the carb, thus, flooding the motor. One of those thick heat insulating gaskets or a phenolic carb spacer will usually stop that from occurring. The latter situation is more common when aluminum intakes are installed and the heat crossover passage is not blocked. Another much less common cause of flooding with Holley carbs when the motor sits is leaking metering block gaskets in the carburetor.

Well, she's off to the upholsterer for the new white top.

Email should be up and running again for anyone who missed the other thread. BTW, if you see a sock on my door knob don't knock, it means I'm busy using the other sock. :P

@Mach1 Driver As of today I was told to look at the website in two weeks. They should be available at that time.

Hmm... guess I shoulda checked here before calling you. Na, It was a good chat we had.

Some blocks have them and some do not ,it was a part of the casting process and nothing to worry about

That's good to hear.

Im west about 35-40 miles of that ho dunk town called Dallas. All good out here

I need to move the window over to the right about ¼" i have no more adjustment, any ideas?

No ones allowed to smoke in my cars so that just seemed like a better use. plus they wont bother me for my cord.

thanks everybody. If I stroke, then I might was well go to the 408.

Got the under side of the car all cleaned and finished then put the car back down on jack stands. I media blasted the whole bottom then seam sealed everything, coated with POR15, lightly sanded per directions then primed and under coated. I also blasted my lower dash and axle. Converted my non AC dash to AC and repainted. Disassembled the entire rear end, cleaned throughly and repainted the exterior. I blasted multiple small parts and pieces and powder coated them for durability. I’m converting my rear end to limited slip with 3.55 gears. Now that the rear end is cleaned and ready to reassemble I hope to be done with it next weekend and put it back on the car. I am waiting on a few small parts to come in though that may not be here in time for that.

So are we talking about a 3rd gender LOL.

If you build a stroker, you need good aftermarket heads, and a roller cam and roller lifters. As mentioned, the crank, rods, and pistons are needed, so unless you have the other parts mentioned, you will need them also. In short, if you have a stock engine and want a stroker, you can only reuse the block unless you already have a good oil pump or timing set etc.

Yes there are, but we are nearing extinction.

Yesterday I finished welding up the drivers side sub frame connector. Here is both the r/s & l/s connectors.

could be the headlight switch or the headlight dimmer switch on the floor . if it happens again try depressing the dimmer switch just a tiny bit. if nothing happens try dimming the lights for a few seconds a few times. .

This is what it looks like when we're packed to capacity LOL.

Hello all, I just re-imported all the images to this thread that were lost during the sites upgrade. Makes this thread more interesting than imagining what the parts look like. Jim

If i remember right they do have the long tail shaft ,they used a shorter drive shaft ,i may have the shorter shaft ,if i didnt sell it already

I usually run it for a least 100 miles, but in your case, you should change it right away because of all the filings from the destroyed can lode and lifter that were inside the engine. I don't run synthetic in a new engine for at least 300 miles. I would also get a magnetic drain plug. In addition to the maknetic drain plug, you can also stick a fairly large magnet to the bottom of the ban near the drain plug.

Is it Monday already?

What type of mufflers are you using? Chambered mufflers, especially the small two chamber mufflers tend to cause resonating inside the cabin (more interior noise). Flowmaster's Delta Flow design chambered mufflers are a little better (less interior noise) than the non Delta Flow chambered mufflers with regards to resonating inside the cabin.

Nice color, thinking of that for my body....

Yes, on the '69s you will have to crack your windows. My advice is to find an old A/C dash, and put Vintage Air in. I didn't do it on my '68 and I regret it every time I take the car out from June to September in North Carolina.

Prob needs some adjusting, both carbs are less than a year old.

Laid out the striping tape for stripes, just forgot to pick up the ivory soap to apply them

Today was a productive day, I installed the shortened Explorer aluminum driveshaft, made the fuel filter bracket, & started working on the drivers side sub frame connector.

The early fastbacks had air extractors. Since the Shelby's had Lexan side windows, you are correct, the air had no way out, so they made that cool rear window. The 69 fastbacks had no front or rear vent windows, and no air extractors, so not a good situation. The early Chevrolet's had the same issue, It could lead to a lot of smoke in the car....

to get the cotter pin in when also using the potatoe chip washer you can install the flat washer then squeeze on the outsde of the flat washer and the outside of the rod etc then install the cotter pin.

Is that for the old p/s ram cylinder for the stock p/s?.

I'd rather listen to my cammed up .030 over CobraJet than a radio. Dave R.

Maybe something for the old power steering?

Bob's Speedometer Shop in Howell, MI. rebuilt them. Dave R.

Hey ,i can kick my self out just fine thank you very much haha Going to use the old cell for target practice ,drop my calls will you ,not going to give my emails ? BOOM!

Casey, really nice car, love the color combination.

Mustang Tek. An excellent site with lot's of info. Particularly good for casting number information. http://www.mustangtek.com/Litterature.html

That's it exactly Newstang!!!!!! We do have the same taste. Ridgerunner, looking forward to seeing your progress, I always assumed one day I would have to try to make a fiberglass one. If you decide to go into production or at least make more than one let me know, I'll be the first customer in line! :) I already cobbled up a custom ram air for mine and opened up the stock hood but this would be way cooler!

please keep that foul 4 letter word to yourself :-)

If your speedo is still making noise, why not use briefs or boxers? SOMEONE had to say it...

Rear fin, trunk weatherstrip, and trunk cleaned out.

When I worked at a Ford new car dealership back in the late 70's we would pull the inner cable out of the housing & lube it with wheel bearing grease, & I do not remember a time where it did not work to quite it down.

We have a lot of our customers tell us the manual setup we have stops better than their old power setup

Cool is a matter of taste. The Shelby is certainly a more expensive and better performing car but I can't really say I appreciate the look all that much, particularly all those tail lights. Also the signature four head lights were replaced with only two. I'm not saying that the front sudo brake cooling ducts wouldn't have added functionality, but the actual duct to make them cool the brakes was an option and didn't come standard with the car. I got that tidbit from a GT500 owner. I wonder how much lighter all the fiberglass actually made the car?

look at this, door switches, original on left, scott drake on right. no wonder the lights didnt work with the drake part