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Found the missing bolts in a clearly marked zip log bag that was in with my window hardware.... anyway... Got the top together, like a big erector set. Finally managed to get it pretty straight, hooked up the new hydraulic pump, lines and cylinders, and it actually worked. Video attached. IMG_7401.MOV

I think it rides great with 15". My suspension is very stiff and if I had 17" wheels I don't think I would like the extra jolt of manhole covers or other road imperfections.

Outstanding work, story, and love for your brother. With everything going on in your life Casey, we've got the Man of the year winner right here.

In the center console cup holders, of course! Oh, and under the seat when the car with the flashing blue lights follows you.

Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.

Ya, I'd delete those last pics :)

Dude, what a great project. You all will never forget this. Nothing like a test drive with uncapped headers and a mis-aligned front end. That's the way I drove all my cars back in the day...lol The color is stunning. Great job Vic

Boy was he surprised, I opened the shop door for him and his jaw dropped. First question he had was about the tie rod ends, told him that was fixed thurs night and was the bait. Then popped the hood, hooked up the battery and said “take her for a spin”. Thank he crapped in his pants on that one since he was clueless on me picking up the motor 3 weeks ago. He fired her up and was gone for about 20 min, started getting a little worried since the front end needs aligned and has uncapped headers and I hadn’t driven it yet. He pulled back in grinning from ear to ear. I’m going to finish a couple of little things, fix the header leak, exhaust run, and front end aligned. He’ll need that much time to clean his shop up to park it in.

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result. Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby. Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

3M undercoating. Great stuff. put 12 cans on mine.

Welp, it shouldn't be too hard to find. Look behind the lower dash to the left of the steering column. It goes thru the firewall as shown in my pic. If it's been pulled thru the firewall look in the engine bay below the master cylinder.

As they were with your cowl panel hardware, they go under the cowl panel where the rubber bumps are at both ends to level the cowl with fender. Put them between cowl panel and cowl before you tighten the rubber bumper screw (screw goes through the opening of shim). My 69 Grande have those to align the cowl panel.

Front end alignment shims ,although a 69 70 should not need them ,they are sometimes used to align body panels ,about the only place i have ever found them for body panel alignment is at the bottom rear of the front fenders to the rocker .

I would use either of the 2.87 gear trannies because they have a numerically lower first gear, so it is actually usable because you can go faster than 6 mph before you have to shift. A 3.27 or or numerically higher first gear is good for steep hill climbing or a lame V8 or even lamer 6 cylinder engine. T5 Z SPEC . . . . 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63 TKX . . . . . . . . . .2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1.00, .068

Congrats. Just so you know, the reason that one was pricy is it comes with the illuminated switch option. This only came with the visibility group option package and not all (or even most) Mustangs got it. It should plug in to your existing harness and your switch will light up with the parking lights. Keep us posted on the build! Oh, BTW, I like the Boss 351 poster on the garage wall :)

nice tip on using the tape to help make sure you are placing it in the right place.

I have a TKO600 with a 064 5th gear with 3:50s and my RPMs are around 1900-2k at 65 mph, I dont think 068 5th gear would make a difference.

Where do these go?

Congrats on the purchase and good luck on your build. It's a labor of love.

With those, even the close ratio versions have a fairly low first gear ratio. My thoughts with using a close ratio top loader 4sp in my Mach 1, I'd select one of the middle two close ratio versions and use something like a 3.50 or 3.70 rear axle ratio. The overdrive ratio will depend on how you want to drive on the freeway.

More weatherstrip area repair around door frames. 2 layer repair at each location. Very time consuming. Almost done with them.

I tried on some 17x9 Halibrand Cobra III front wheels with 275/40 tars.

Excellent info Rob, mucho thanks.

Bob, if you get the mustang kit it comes with everything and lines right up with the holes in the firewall. the unit is smaller so its a easy fit, Ive done two with the original controls and is pretty simple. the only pain in the ass is running the ducts but other than that they are great.

I'm tired of waiting for show season so set up a table top car show.

Here is one, but wants a lot for it.

Start with cardboard, transfer to wood. My dimensions are much different than stock as I moved the seats risers back 6". Pics of process below.

I am sure u have seen this guy around the forum used to be on alot. He did an excellent job I think. If u PM him I bet he could throw some numbers at you. New Center Console - The Garage - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite

IMHO The ideal tire/wheel size for these cars is probably 15" or 16". The larger the wheel & tire diameter size the sidewall of the tire is smaller making for a harsher/harder ride.

Nah, the boonies have Greyhound stations :)

Did a 2 layer repair on door area drip tray trim. Typical rust close to A-pillar. Turned out pretty well.

@Rcodenewf, it has been a long time since I installed a reproduction w/s (which I assume is what you are using). I looked at a few original doors I have with original w/s on them and on some one end of the w/s is little lifted, some are laying good; lifted ones did not have glue under lifted areas. If your w/s is a good quality (ie soft) then when you glue them, they should confirm. Follow the directions on the glue (ie put it on both sides, wait X minutes for it to get non-tacky etc). Last time I installed door w/s a couple years ago, I re-used the original w/s I removed without damaging it. I used the black 3M which I think holds a little better than the yellow one; do the aft side of the door first, then half of bottom, then other half, then front and glue it in sections. Before gluing, I install it with masking tape and mark the w/s and door in a few places so the ends of w/s matches to the screw holes at both ends of the w/s. Then glue section at a time, and attach per the marks I made on door and w/s. Attach one flat side of the 90 first while butting the 90 degree to the door 90 degree then press the other flat side. If you follow the directions on the glue and if your w/s is soft, glue will confirm the w/s to door. Good luck.

DP90 followed up with Monstaliner rolled on Dark Gray

Some of us are already there ...

U-Pol Raptor bedliner.

Ride comfort won't be improved by going from 15 to 17:

Wow it looks great. What a nice guy you are for doing this for your brother!

Throwing a pickle down the hallway...

I have a 1970 Ford Mustang with 302 2bbl, factory air and power steering. I need to replace the leaf springs, coil springs and shock absorbers. The idea is to keep it as close to the factory settings as possible. Wheels are 15" Magnum 500 with BFG Radial T/A P225 70R 15. Are there any suggestions on what should be installed? Thanks.

Hell, he can't even remember his name or when he's supposed to see his Parole Officer...

A good pic is worth a thousand dollars. Even my 20 year old cheap paint job can look good in a pic.

Here are the photos with the new LED Headlights.

Converted my headlights to LED, The lens housing are crystal clear (not bad looking) for a good price too. $199.00 best conversation imo, really bright at night! if you want the OEM look I recommend buying these: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-3-4-stock-glass-metal-headlight-18-24w-6k-led-h4-lamp-light-bulb-headlamp-set.html

My hi-fi sound system needed some attention as the sound was scratchy when turning the volume up or down and the cassette player was not reading. So I opened it up to clean the volume potentiometer and see what was wrong with the cassette not reading. Looks like the tape head is burned out and I do not have a head to replace it with so I improvised and added auxiliary input and bluetooth to it. 3 way switch that switches between the radio/cassette (if/when I find a head to replace), Aux input and bluetooth. 1st picture is radio/cassette mode and 2nd picture is bluetooth mode; the switch is hidden in plain sight on these pictures, let's see who is going to find it first. 3rd picture are the parts I used.

She’s back home today. New steering rack, not perfect but much better. 5 speed trans,. Louder, cooler exhaust rumble. still have to get stereo working & clutch pedal sticks on bottom

New rack & pinion being installed. Old steering system was totally worn out.

This is what you do when the old wheels don't fit over your new brakes

Well, here's an update. I cut a 1/2 coil and now I'm at 25 1/2", within time it should settle another 1/2". So, 25" is in the ballpark for me and I'll keep it at that. And while I was at it, I install the rear window louvers. I did send back the short first coil spring set and was told I would get a full refund. Yes, I do like the big fat rear tire look.

(LOL) When we've reached the end of time and dinosaurs once more roam the earth as mankind has finally died off.....your Mustang will still sit there as a tribute to what once was .....(LOL) That's what I like about this website, I feel it's members enjoy driving their classic Mustangs more that just looking at them. Most difenitely, enjoy your ride. :clap:

What is different? Is just the back different or is the seat portion also different? I could give you dimensions (height and width) of the two sections. Oh, and the back seats are not comfortable. I remember that from high school.