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Took her out for a spin today with no major issues!! A couple of rattles need to be located/fixed, get the front end aligned, new exhaust, and she’ll be good to go.

We finished up around five in the afternoon. I went with the Dyno Max Super Turbo mufflers. V band clamps and a X kit from Summit Racing and well as a complete kit from National Parts Depot. I have the turbo mufflers from the kit that I am planning to sell. I still need to weld on the chrome tips and make some minor adjustments. Then I can fire it up.

Restored lower front fascia and installed the front license place bracket.

very true, the air is the cleanest its ever been in 3 lifetimes. I believe the planet goes through cycles and it will do so long after were gone. even if the planet is all on-board, the climate will change and the fires in Cali have ZERO to do with climate change.

All I can say is stand by her side in support and hold her close. Things can change in a blink of your eye both for the good and bad. Best of luck to you both!

I have mine under the spoiler so it doesn’t stand out unless directly behind

Got to work on the car last Sat am, installed the new proportioning valve, bled brakes. Took new proportioning valve off, filed top of block, installed new cooper washer, bled brakes and FINALLY all looks good. Good pedal and brakes stop rear brakes. First test drive coming soon!!

Swop the rear wheels over and see if its the wheel or not.

If I were you, I'd go to great lengths to get the V belts to work. I didn't even think to try a double V belt when my single belt kept slipping with a ~100 amp alternator. I even used a turnbuckle to tighten the belt. Even though I dislike the serpentine belt look, it does work. My need to use the 100 amp alt was a classic rabbit hole affair, which I don't recommend. Since I just had to have a shaker air cleaner, tIhen found it sat too high thru the hood. Shoulda milled the Stealth intake, but lowered the motor. Which required custom motor mounts, engine crossmember, electric fans since stock interfered with lower radiator hose, custom tranny mounts to keep angle correct. All for a damn shaker. With dual fans, power windows, and stereo, I went big on the alternator. In hindsight, I'd keep it stock. Much more simple, and stock works just fine.

Prayers have been answered and we got some great news today. Stage one, cell doesn’t appear to have any blood vessels through it, and lymph nodes looked normal. Next is choose between a lumpectomy with centralized radiation or a mastectomy. Lymph nodes would be removed during either procedure and then more thoroughly checked. Dr was so awesome and took the time to explain what we are dealing with, what happens next, options on how to proceed, genetic test available to help with that decision as well as benefit Erin, and then preventive measures to help insure another cell doesn’t pop up. Sue was so relieved as I and we can now focus on what it actually is, in lieu of the unknown. Thank you for all your thoughts and prayers!

Assembly of brackets, hood latch and hood pins. Radiator, fan shroud and other parts. Went trough and retapped the wires using the proper cloth tape.

thin the heard

Keep in mind, since you're running EFI, they prefer single plane manifolds otherwise the sensors/computer gets confused. Don't take my word for it, read up on this subject. Dual planes disrupt the way they sense air charges, in short

Our prayers are still with you all.All the best wishes Phil

All the parts are in from WCCC and the car is backed into the garage to get started on this project. I'll keep you updated here.

now lets be reasonable- they are Biden's fault

Correct, you need to plan this out to do it right. It would be a good time to add a mega* fuse and a fuse link. I would suggest a 3G Ford style alternator (not PA Performance) of around 100A, unless you will be adding a big stereo and power windows. The thing with the ammeter is that it has to be disconnected, but you could have it converted to a functioning voltmeter and no one would ever know. The secret here is that it already is a type of voltmeter, but not what you need. *haha, the first time I actually spelled that maga (Make America Great Again), not mega.

Hi all. Back working on the car, after spending most the summer travelling/working in Canada/Quarantining... Back in NC for a couple weeks, and trying to get some mini-projects out of the way. I am headed over to Mike's (Latoracing) who has kept a watchful eye on my car over the past months, while putting some finishing touches on it. I plan on hanging the doors on the car, so Mike can have his beautifully welded door braces back. To get ready for that, I pulled the doors out of storage, I had stripped the contents off the doors and had them media blasted and epoxy primed. Over last day or so, I put some Boom Mat in the doors, installed new window regulators, window guides, internal bump stops, and the door latch on both doors. I also replaced some of the worn parts on the window guides and rear bump stops. I also put new gaskets on the bolt in window mounts. This is all a lot easier to do when the door is off of the car. First 3 pics Old window guide spacers. Note that taper faces to the center of the guard. New bushings from NPD. Refurbished window guide with new bushings and new gasket. Next pic - door where you can see Boom Mat and window regulator. The two bolts and the oval plate at the latch end of the door hold in the rear bump stop. The door has a slotted hole in it to allow up and down movement. I always start with the stop pushed all the way down. The oval plate will need to be painted body color, so don't lose these when you take your door apart. (There are also smaller oval plates used for the rear window regulators on coupes and convertibles) Next set of pics - the rear window stop has a felt pad on it to keep the window from scratching when going up and down. One of mine was missing, the other was worn out. I couldn't find an exact replacement, but I found some in the NPD Catalog for earlier year Mustangs. They are slightly longer, so a quick cut with the hacksaw solved that problem. Mine were riveted in, you can see the rivets in the picture with the rear stop flipped over. So, I drilled out the rivets. The window felt kit came with a couple large staples, which I did not use, due to less than great results by the installer (me) in previous attempts with these type of stapled installs. So, I used 3M double sided body tape instead. I double stacked it and compressed it in my vice. I have used this tape to hold body parts on for later model cars, so I am sure it will last here. Last project was to drill a hole and put in a riv-nut to mount my 1969 Sport Mirrors. I had 2 existing holes that were much too close for the approx 7" distance between the new mounting hole. My car had these on both doors. The front "riv-nut" that was existing on both doors was actually a rubber/composite insert, which was easy to remove. I got a sport mirror mounting kit from NPD that had the correct screws and riv-nut. So, measure twice, drill once, and had a new hole (17/64") for the 1/4" riv-nut. I use riv-nuts a lot they are great for flush mounting stuff where you can't have a screw/bolt-nut combination. A while back, I got myself a riv-nut driver attachment for my DeWalt 20v drill. It works great. You progressively work your way tighter by using the clutch setting on the drill, until the riv-nut doesn't rotate anymore. If you go too far, you will deform the metal. Mine worked with the clutch setting on 10-11. It makes a nice, flush connection if done properly. I have included a pic of the adaptor if anyone is interested. Mine came with a bunch of dies that are for all your common machine screws and 1/4 -20 fasteners. It also has the equivalent metric sized dies. The only thing I am not really happy with is the "gasket" for the mirrors, that I got from NPD. If anyone has a mirror gasket that doesn't look like it is "squished" out on the sides, I would appreciate the info. The window project is a great weekend/weeknight project to do, which will give you better window operation in the end. Don't forget to use lubricant (lithium grease) when you do the final assembly. Vic

Drum brake spindles have a 4 Bolt flange for mounting the backing plate. Disk brake have a 3 bolt flange for mounting the backing plates. I beleive 70 have a larger spinal that takes a larger bearing as well. Then there are granda spendals that I have knowledge.

Looking good Casey.

exactly what i was going to suggest Lanky. I did this to mine and also set the shaft in control arm forward a thread or two. all this made the grease fitting to close the the shock tower so I plugged the original hole so I positioned everything the way would be torqued down and marked the nut hex flat facing out. took back apart and drilled and taped the hole. With this modification and lower control arm pulled forward as far as I could without tire rub on valance I got 5 degrees caster. I had CPP intergral steering box similar to Borgensen and the car drove awesome.

The other side promotes nothing but bull$hit lies. They're all "worried" about Russia tampering, but think illegals should be able to vote.

Put some 27 inch or bigger tars on the back.

Bah. I just suck it up, and then blow it out, not needing any hoses at all. Be a man!

GOODYEAR IS NOT AN OPTION !

This is what Pro-death is all about.

hey, whats important to know is that today is Ashura. it now shows up on my apple calendar, but im sure muslim shit will replace Columbus day, 4th of July , Christmas and thanks giving! Didn't they just terrorize this country a few years ago. This crap just gets better and better, I'm no Bible thumper at all, but old friends of mine have been talking about Rapture, barcode tattoos, watch the gay movement, and whats right will seem wrong and wrong become right, since i was a teen and all sorts of crap i forgot. I always said, they were full of shit. But i'm afraid to say they were right. Im sure its not coincidence. I have never before felt like my time was up and that we would actually be in a holy war / race war. I do believe we are there. Never-mind the elections, no matter who is in or out, this will get worse. But what really concerns me is we wont be able to drive our mustangs anymore with trash like AOC :-)

Well said Rob. That's pretty much the feelings of every retired cop I know.

So I am old and have seen a lot so far but the complete loss of common sense has me at a loss. Why is it so dangerous to vote in person, Yet we go to the stores, gas stations, banks and more without worry about the so called danger. They blame Trump for the virus, So do they have a better idea or cure ? If so then why do they not come out and show us what can be done to stop it , Why do they need me to vote for them to see their plans. They keep yelling Black lives matter , As they slaughter each other in the streets daily. Calling to defund the Police , But do not say who or what is the plan to protect the citizens of the US. You want a Green New Deal , But you cannot tell me why tossing money in the air is going to stop millions of years of climate change. You scream for reparations and burn down, loot, kill and say I have white privilege but know nothing about my lifes hardships. News Flash!!!! Your reparation check has been defunded and sent to the cash pot to replace and rebuild the cities and business's that were destroyed in your misguided riots. Looking back at the Lefts idea of It Takes a Village to Raise a Child program , They forgot to consider what would the out come would be when your village is full of Idiots!

Understood. You could possibly do the same set up just use the Carb Regulator. If you ever switch to EFI, just swap out the regulator. And yes the right PTFE is not cheap and I did get the good stuff as I read the same things about the pin holes. Certainly didn't want that issue.

If this is an electrical coolant sensor, don't use teflon products on the threads, as the threads are the conductive path to ground.

Loctite make a teflon paste, 567 Pipe sealant.

I'll be using a Mallory pump & regulator combo. I already have it but can't say about the noise level as its not installed yet.

agreed, Im going this route once I go EFI, the stealth tank can handle both EFI and Carb Set ups. its matter of getting a fuel regulator and correct hose.

Dude, you suck! You've built at least 2 Mustangs in less time that I built one. But you sure fi fine work. Kudos brother.

Mini starters can be expensive. And some of the gear reduction aftermarket stuff can be noisy. I had the same issue you are having, hard to crank over when hot with the 351W in my 1969 Mach 1. This was many years ago, I went to the parts department at my local Ford dealer, the part number changed a few times, but I ended up with a late model permanent magnet gear reduction mini starter. It solved all the hard starting issues. If you have an automatic trans, I think a starter for a 1995 or so F150 with a 5.8L and automatic trans will fit. Those are a PMGR mini starter and you can get one from a parts store. Just do a close comparison before installing it, especially the drive gear.

Very true, But trying to compare what a business man does in private life to what those political hacks have done to our country while in office. Is comparing Apple pie to dog shit, Which would you prefer to eat?

I find it neat to read some of the days gone by advertising.

Floor pans on both sides are now in and just doing some prep work on seat risers and the Global West subframe connectors, before welding them in. I have a few days off next week, so hoping to get the welding finished, save for the front rad support.

sub 11 could be done with both motor combos. roll cage not needed but a 5 point bar minimum. I would suggest swing out on the drivers side.. ran a pump gas 393 and it put print out 11.15 slips all day..

Seems like I've seen this thread before somewhere. But anyway.. When people say they want a bunch of power and there's a choice between a smaller engine and a bigger one, the answer is the bigger one. Pretty much just that simple. Getting around 400 HP from a 351W isn't too hard. Stroke it for more. 8 inch rears rule of thumb are good up to 400 HP or so if there's no drag racing with slicks. Sounds like you'll need a 9. The "sub 11 second" thing kind of throws this. Such times aren't that easy to achieve. Plus if you do, they're going to say you have to have a roll cage if you plan to keep going to the track. Have a plan for that? An alternative to all this is to just hotrod the engine and car how you want to with an eye towards improving it's performance. If you forget about focusing on some arbitrary blue sky numbers the whole thing is a LOT more enjoyable. On the other hand, if you intend to use the car for competition then of course you need a thought out plan with realistic goals.

to answer your first question: my current 392w stroker had a "street fighter" c4 from performance automatic with a 2500 stall convertor and I had stock open 3:00 diff, it was a good platform and nothing ever broke as I was on street tires. I would definitely look into performance automatic if you decided to stay with the c4 or you can buy their 4spd auto. I decided to go manual as that was the original goal, so I went with a TKO0600 and went with a trutrac ford 9 w/3:50 gears. I was able to put down 360rwhp and 400rwtq after dyno and tune. if there was a 5-6 speed auto that could fit with no cutting/mods I would have gone this route. For the 302/351w: both 302//351w are great platforms, though the power you are wanting to make, I think the 331 should be easy build, but the 302 block has limitations if you are trying to achieve max power, thats when the 351w comes in to play, they can take up to 600hp no problem. price is roughly the same with both engines, with a 351w you are limited to intake options, if you stay with the stock hood, I wanted the edelbrock airgap but I read there was clearance issues with the stock hood and some ppl recommended going with a cowl hood. I went with the weiand stealth intake instead, to keep my stock hood and I make good power overall. the 302's are easier to work on, they are smaller and no clearance issues, 351w are somewhat wider and taller and can get tight under the hood if you go with big heads and headers, servicing the 351w can be tiresome, which is why some ppl tend to stay with a 302 but 351w can take more power. of course, these opinions can be eliminated if you went with a dart block, then I suggest going with the 331.

The wonder of makeup:)

Thanks just figured it out haha. Had to set some pliers on the collar and tap the cable into the hole. Tight fit. Then I pushed the plastic clip to one side and sure enough it fell right into place. I chucked the cable into my drill and slowly turned it to see if it works. This cable is cut in two and I was just getting ready for the new one I ordered. Thanks again

You can't fix stupid! But a nice 170 grain to the head will open its mind to new thoughts.

I wonder why MSM never showed this

painted and installed. now the exhaust can be installed. when i have the money....

finally fabbed up the driveshaft loop. i started with a universal kit from summit that i had gotten about 17 years ago... the only part i used was the loop. i trimmed a little off and welded the two halves together. i cut some 1/4" plate to make the side brackets and cut up some 1/8" 2X1 box tubing for the connector pieces. it's located about 4.5" from the u-joint centerline but the first fastener is about 7" from the centerline. hopefully i won't be forced to have to ever argue with any tech. i plan on painting it the same color as the undercarriage with the loop painted the same stainless steel paint as the driveshaft.