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A little update, engine wiring 99%done, fuel tank mounted, battery cradle modified and fitted, fan shroud made and fitted, air intake modified and fitted, just have some bonnet clearance issues to sort, first engine startup IMG_4958.MOV

Good news today, next project, 70 Coupe with Landau top, got painted today. They still need to install top/trim, front/rear glass, and headliner, should be coming home in 2-3 weeks. Looking forward to dropping in the FE and installing the headers, just shoot me now

a friend of mine, who loves photography took pictures of my car. looks pretty good!

Bought this car last year for 400.00, as a parts car. After getting it home and getting the 4 five gallon buckets worth of old acorns, rat and squirrel crap, and ?? it looked to good to part her out. When I got brave enough to take out the back seat and venture into the trunk, there I found the rest of the interior pieces, exterior trim, light buckets, and another 2 five gallon buckets of nuts and crap. I stripped her down, went thru all the wiring, and got all the electrical working. I replaced the drivers side floor pan and off to paint and body she went. Rust was minimal, with just a few patches in the normal rusted out spots and a new used top of course. She came home today.

It's finally home.

If you run the brake line inside the tunnel like Ford did when they built the car, it will be away from the exhaust and there won't be any issues. If you keep the line like you have now, your exhaust may boil your brake fluid. Only way to know for sure is to measure the temperature of the line when the exhaust is hot to see if the temperature gets to your brake fluid's boiling temp or not.

Spending quality time with your kids is very rewarding and provides memories you will get no where else. A project like this also teaches them great work ethic and rewards them for hard work!

Notwithstanding wether it's a hoax, I wouldn't trust Snopes to drive my shivy. If I owned a shivy.

Got a deal on it ,ANOTHER 56 FORD! they are like Lays potato chips ,you cant have just one ,this is 3 now if you are counting .

At least we don't have to see any more Mike for president commercials.

Thought I would start a build thread on this one. This one took a lot of engineering, they wanted us to incorporate a front Griggs racing system into our full MTF subframe. This is a one off and I will never do another one at any cost. We had to beef up a lot of the weak areas of the Griggs setup. I think we will even be installing steel fender flares like I did on my blue 65 fastback

Well, I caved.... went and picked up the mtr from my brothers last weekend and started putting it back together. All down hill from here. Figure I’ll go get the bell housing, trans, and rest of the stuff this weekend. Hope to have it in by end of next weekend.

Thanks for the update, I appreciate your effort in keeping us in the loop as much as you can. I don't participate in any of the social media platforms.

Getting the blog caught up on lots of goings on in the shop. http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2020/03/catching-up-2019-into-2020.html

Damn straight. I have a brand new AED 650 double pumper here I was going to put on, but couldn't be bothered with either trying to learn how to set jets or taking it to get tuned. And now I can adjust most parameters from the driver seat.

My old girl made Ford Muscle Magazine! Story is pretty close, about 80%... but overall I'm pretty proud!! https://www.fordmuscle.com/features/a-51-year-survivors-tale-rob-simons-1969-mach-i-mustang/

Casey mine also need polishing & black replaced, I found on YouTube if you type in 1970 Mustang Aluminum Rocker Panel Trim Repair you will see one being removed & pollished.Cheers Phil

Dude, how good is good enough? Looks great to me.

Absolutely. Did you have any doubts? In the parts, not my ability, or lack thereof. Thanks again brother.

While I was under the car I decided to install the Tie down brackets I purchased from DeadNutsOn. So at this stage I have cleaned and underneath and painted it. The Mustang was built in San Jose so the underneath is painted black from firewall back. I have restored three 67 Mustangs and I have never seen the amount of undercoating that I have seen on the Mach1. I also found some factory exhaust hangers and had the silver sink coated.

On the outside original much like the interior with suspension upgrades and Torque Thrust Rims. So it should handle and ride much better than stock. I purchased the tie downs from Dead Nuts On along with a few other small parts.

Hello Everyone! Accidentally stumbled onto this forum yesterday and have been completely enveloped in it since, figured I may as well join and share! I picked up my 1969 Sportsroof in 2013, shortly after selling my '67 Coupe (sold the coupe to buy the '69). The 69 SR had always been my dream car, and when I found it on Craigslist (claiming to be a Mach 1) I quickly jumped at the opportunity to claim her as mine! This is how I found her... almost forgotten and definitely neglected (full album at the link) In the Beginning Towed her the 60+ miles home, not realizing that 5.0 was literally resting in the bay (no hardware anywhere!) Quick assessment and a lot of pictures to kind of lay out the way ahead.. previous owner should have taken a MIG 101 class :-/ Assessing the Damage Fast Forward about 6 months, we have the 5.0 removed, all old suspension and steering linkage.. bay has been cleaned up and we are read for the Full Tilt setup! Full Tilt MII Setup Chop Chop Burn New Core Support, jack pad, fender apron, and paint At this point, the Marine Corps decided to send me off to Quantico for an undetermined amount of time.. better pause on the body work and see if Maaco will throw a $500 paint job on her! Not too shabby! Hastily re-assembled and sent cross country for what ended up being 3 years :-( Back in Cali, ready to tackle the project again and decided the 429 is not the way I want to go! Drivetrain stuff yeah, that stock rear end wont work either.. Custom 8.8 with 31-spline detroit locker, 3.73 While I'm waiting for the engine to be built (went with a Blueprint this time around), time to clean, repair and POR the undercarriage, trunk and interior Rust Control Aww, c'mon... they weren't even trying! And thats about where she is.. I'll be adding to the albums and this thread as progress continues. Tomorrow's plan is to shorten the seat pans and continue cleaning the road grime from the metal in prep for the POR 15. Majority of parts are in (interior cosmetics excluded), just waiting on the engine which has a scheduled ship date of 20 Jun! I'll unbox and take pictures as they go on ;-) In the mean time, please enjoy my previous Coupe, Grace! Started out as a Craigslist find, straight 6 and 4 lug.. ended up getting a 351W/T5Z 1967 Mustang Coupe - Grace

Thanks Vic. Today was a rainy day & I could not work outside so I was in the garage & started wrapping the engine bay harness & where the harness runs in front of the radiator.

100%! He's coming up on 5 right now and loves being in the garage with me.. woodworking is his current forte, hoping this continues for years to come!

No staggered shocks or sway bar.

I'd start with NPD as suggested above, but another place to try is West Coast Classic Cougar- they will know which of their parts fit a Mustang.

As exact as I can measure on my -69 Fastback with no floor. Also in metric millimeters (+/- 1 mm), just because. :)

Just a few more hours of little things and she’ll be ready to fire up after being taken apart 18 years ago.

Left side is in.

Welcome my precious ,i have been expecting you ! Is it just me or does anyone else enjoy the smell of old cars ? 272 with automatic ,was factory black and white ,interior was also black and white ooooh baby !

Saw this this morning ,kind of makes sense ,just dont use a accetalyn torch https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10218332790566053&id=1080605656 ok !

Looking good. When I have to hammer inside close/tight areas, I use a dolly as a hammer instead of a body hammer with a handle. By using a dolly as hammer, you do not have to swing it as wide to move the metal compared to a hammer. Close to the ends where you can't get a hammer or dolly to swing, I push the dent out in very small sections with one of my body picks (like the ones used by paintless dent removal folks), a pry bar or a flat screw driver I modify the end.

4-5 hours later, a lot of cussing, mtr mounts pulled, clutch fork removed, dropped idler arm and presto....headers are in. Now to put all the removed stuff back on and install gaskets and bolts. My brother called earlier and ask why his were burning.

I had a stand made for the doors and the tailgate to make painting a lot easier. We just finished making the tubs for the Coyote swap in one piece, compared to the factory which was 2 pieces.

I needed a feed point for the inertia switch for the electric fuel pump, & the circuit breakers for the electric cooling fans. I installed a bus bar & fed it with a wire from the battery side of the starter solenoid. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-10-Gang/dp/B0091VHLW4?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1&psc=1

Whatever AAW used, it might not be large enough for your alternator. According to the national electric code, for 95 amps, you need a #2 wire. Wires will create heat when you have current through them, and from the NEC, if you run 95 amps continuously through a #2 wire, it will get up to 60 degrees C, or 140 degrees F. As an engine compartment is already quite hot, that might not be enough if run continuously. So you should probably use a #2 wire with insulation good for high temperature. You would be much better running the wire direct from the alternator to the battery and not splicing a heavy wire like that into the AAW harness.

I went with vintage LEDS on one car and my other from mustang project. they are both great. these unlike the vintage dont sequence when you brake, only on turn. https://www.mustangproject.com/Catalog.aspx?category=68642387-6653-4218-935e-89619ca5f35a&sub=f238e982-267e-40ef-96d5-47cd6aad2b01

@Rich Ackermann https://www.cvfracing.com/black-ford-351c-serpentine-system-ac-power-steering-alternator/ Or https://www.cvfracing.com/black-serpentine-system-for-351c-351m-400-ac-power-steering-alternator-all-inclusive/

Spoiler mod is awesome!

Your to late for that, they just changed their name.

You're a very sick man LOL.

I have the Wilwood MC, works great. I made a mounting plate out of aluminum to cover the booster holes and make for a clean look.

Take it out, clean it and lube up the moving parts with wheel bearing grease. Also check the tension on the lock and door rods. I ran into the same issue, once I greased them up and made sure the tension was minimal at rest with the pull rods, they work like a champ.

He had a bad relay in the first case, and that explains all his problems getting it to work properly. A diode is only useful on the coil terminals 85 and 86 to short out the backward EMF when the relay is powered down. Dampening the voltage spike would make the drive electronics happier, and last longer.

Now that the bedliner is done, they've unmasked our Watt's brackets and will paint them Hot Rod black.

I am doing catch up on some of these threads....From the July 26 Post... "What does the bracket look like that mounts the calipers ? I just picked up the disks and the calipers but the mounting bracket is gone "

We have the car off our subframe fixture, and is now on the rotisserie getting ready to Vortex the underside.

I kept the original master cylinder (Ford Ranger on the right) and I got an Explorer master cylinder (on the left). The Explorer master cylinder had the brake line connections on the drivers side, but also had a "tilted" reservoir (due to the way it mounts in the Explorer). So... I swapped the reservoirs (they pull right out and re-insert easily with O Ring Seals), and put the Ford Ranger reservoir on the Explorer body...and..... That's the rest of the story.

I had a double failure one time- I had rebuilt the carb and when I went to start it, the float stuck, gas started pouring out all over AND the starter solenoid stuck. The engine kept cranking and gas kept pouring. Banging on the solenoid didn't help so I frantically took the battery cable off. Soooooo.... be prepared to take the battery cable off.