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the replacement clutch setup that went in last year is operating and holding well now. i know i'm shifting at 7800+. i also have the throttle adjusted so it's opening all the way. just trying to find the right time in the next few weeks to get it to the track. except for some shock adjustments and removing the tool kit from the back seat, i will track it just as the car is setup for the street.

PS Mach 1 rocker installed.

Getting started on the rear seat panels ,i have a set of fairly nice panels . The old paint is flaking off so i removed as much as i could ,especially where it is flaking . Passenger side is in nice condition ,driver side has a couple of gouges that i filled with duraglass ,once it sets up i will sand it smooth .next step is to primer both panels with high build and block sand until perfect . Then reapply the texture ,a few days of drying time and i will mount them on a backing so they do not distort and use them for a brand new mold .they will have all factory holes and back side mounting bracket . That original paint really stinks when sanded!

There is a certain direction those clips have to be installed ,if turned the spring the wrong side up the clip will come out when tightening

Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.

Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here.

I have the measurements if y'all can wait till later tonight or in the morning so I can make them readable.

Thanks Dave, I'm working on it, but had a few setbacks. I much prefer the days when I was young and invincible... and too dumb to know better.

Visited the body shop last week, making good progress. I got my NPD Ford tooling shaker hood and am happy to report that it only needed minor tweaking to get aligned. I also have billet hood hinges, apparently they needed some tweaking, I will report back on that after I go back there on Wednesday. The current work is focused on getting my Maier Racing one piece front spoiler fitted up. That is a very nice piece of work heavy fiberglass, and fits really well. Just a few things to do and it will fit fine. I was at Carlisle Ford show this weekend, and searched for a decent 1970 hood trim piece. As you know, the NOS ones are hard to find and expensive. I did have a good friend offer to let me use his to make sure the hood and headlight trim line up correctly, will be bringing that up there to the body shop on Wednesday. I also will bring my front bumper, and the associated mounting brackets up there to ensure that they clear the spoiler/valence combination and that the bumper lines up correctly. To answer the other questions.... the car will be in the paint booth twice. The first trip will be very soon, and will be the initial prime coat over the body work that has been done. Then, out of the booth, and back into the shop to be block sanded. After that back into the paint booth do do the base coat, hood stripe, and first clearcoat. In the end we will end up with 3 layers of clearcoat. The place that is doing the work is the same shop that painted my '68 coupe. The main business is called Klassic Rides. The shop where my car is located is called GunnerZ, which is a sister business to Klassic Rides. Both are located in Newton, North Carolina. Klassic Rides painted my '68, it needed a lot of work. GunnerZ is primarily paint and body for cars that don't need an extensive amount of work. My car has been "waiting in line" for 8 months to get started. The current wait time is approaching a year. But, my '68 was painted 15 years ago, and the paint job is still flawless. PIcs below of my '68 coupe in 1967 Marina Blue Metallic, a '63 Corvette in my final color of "Sebring Silver", and the ongoing work on the '70 convertible. My guess is that I will have the car back sometime in July or August.

Remember ,the nut tightens to the right so if the clip is in wrong the clip will pop out when tightened

Hard to get a good pic but i was a bit more aggressive on the texture on these test panels and the main panel . I used mold wax on this one and it didnt wipe out the texture ,it did leave gold on my wipe down rag so hopefully the panels will take it this time ,i will be a lot more gentle with them

Update: He replied back to me on Youtube, and I was able to purchase a set of plans. I should have them this week, and I'll report back.

Always amazed by the skills seen on this site. I replaced a spring on my lawn tractor and felt I accomplished something :)

Don't forget to figure in your tire size. Plenty of online calculators to compute this. I have a T5Z behind my 351 Cleveland, with a 9inch 3.00 open diff. My TZ5 is the following: T5Z (MDL purchase)- 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1, .63 OD Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9) Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9) Currently when I shift into 5th, the RPS drop below 2000K, at 75MPH. The Cleveland does not like that, it likes higher RPMs. 4th gear is used the most on the highway. Planning on changing out the 3:00, leaning towards 3:55. I still want a usable 1st gear.

Iam in North Austin. As for the "Problem Areas", the entire car is a bit of a basket case. It was obvious that the past owner did not know anything about Mustangs, first thing I did was rework the cooling system. It would not heat up past 160, I found crud stuck in the T-stat, and no restrictor plate and incorrect T-stat for a Cleveland. So, I flushed the block, had the radiator boiled and tested, all new hoses and correct T-stat set up. I also bought the correct fan shroud for the car, installed a 7 blade fan and fan clutch used on the cobra Jet engine. Now that the car is warming up and cooling properly, I can focus on reworking the Holley Sniper and Fuel system. I had a hard time tracking down the proper fan clutch to use with the 7 blade fan I ordered the fan off of NPD. 8600-12 FAN BLADE ASSY, 7 BLADE 8146-5 FAN SHROUD Amazon: Dorman 23733: Water Pump Stud Kit - 5/16-18 x 7/16 and 5/16-24 x 5/8 Overall Length of 1-1/4 Hayden Automotive 2747 Premium Fan Clutch

IIRC ... 140 MPH Speedometers were only used on 1969 Shelbys, so pretty much the rarest 1969-70 cluster out there. That cluster is probably worth a whole lot more than a Deluxe 120MPH 1970 Tach Cluster. May as well try and find the correct cluster and re-sell that one. Doug

Ethanol Free 91 is still available around me (separate HOSE even at my local station), so that is all I run and thankfully Ethanol is not a concern for me. I've also thought about EFI, but way too much stuff to modify or change which makes it even more difficult to try to maintain my desired "stock look". Plus the tuning aspect of it scares me. When the engine was built in 1987, I originally ran a stock Autolite 4300 carb and swear it got better MPG's then. I switched to the Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper within a year or so and ran that for 32 years. It has 30 over TRW Forged Pistons (about 9.5 CR), a Crower 280HDP street/strip cam in it that gives it a nice & healthy sounding idle, and behind it is a Wide Ratio Toploader 4 Speed and 3.50:1 T-Lok 9". When adjusting the idle screws / setting the idle on this Summit carb, I could not get the vacuum into the "normal" range no matter what I did ... as if there was a big vacuum leak somewhere. I don't remember if this was the same with the Holley and at the time I did nor feel like swapping it back on to find out. During all my tests to try and find this vacuum leak, I stuffed a rag into the top of the secondaries at idle and this will snub it out. So I think there may be an adjustment that may need to be done with the secondary butterflies (unless this is normal). Another reason swapping the Holley back on is even more tempting to see if a rag in it's secondaries will also snub it out !! Other than the 3.50 gears (3000 RPM @ 63 MPH), you would think it could get better MPG's ... at least around town. I always felt that the Holley could use a little tweaking by someone with more carb knowledge than me and obviously now the Summit carb could definitely benefit from an expert's touch. It starts, runs, and drives great "as-is" though, so I've just not had the time or ambition to play around with it any further. Bottom line is this carb is definitely worth the cost & effort to try out on any small block Ford before the big switch to EFI. Doug

I am in the same situation, do I want to go EFI or a carb. My wife wants me to go EFI but I keep thinking a carb would easier.

Has anyone used this pump when converted to EFI ? No need to run a return line.

IIRC on my Coupe it only has one hole there for the sending unit wire.

Oh...the pictures of the front spoiler make it look pretty large. That is because the front bumper is not on. I will post an update once the bumper is on and correctly fitted.

Looking good there Mike. I coated the interior of mine with black rattle can truckbed liner. Stuff is as hard as nails and has a nice mottled finish to hide a lot of the metal unevenness. YMMV…

That deserves an extra cuppla beers tonight bloke

My new window finally came in. I gave it a quick measure and its 15" and some change tall, so shouldn't be another fastback one. :D I got all the different parts glued to the window. Then a couple hours later realized I managed to somehow put the front one on backwards. Despite checking it a dozen times and telling myself not to do it, I somehow did it. :D Luckily I caught it while the glue was still not fully cured. I was able to get the bracket off and cleaned up and glued on the correct direction. Something I noticed the first time gluing the bracket on is it was a bit of a chore keeping them from tilting. This time around, I used a couple stakes and a clamp to hold the brackets so they're at least on the same plane with each other. Whether or not that makes a difference, I'll know after the glue dries and I go to put this thing in.

Ya, I know a couple of guys who are going. I don't really care for the big events, crowds and heavy traffic ain't my thing. It's only about a 3 hour drive, and I've got a buddy who would put me up for the weekend, but that ain't enough to sway me.

I already bought the transmission. The gears are: 3.35, 1.93, 1.26, 1, .068 I have 26" Diameter tires The engine will easily spin up to 6000 RPM in aggressive driving if I put in 5500 rpm shift points this is what it looks like with 3.8 gears For more moderate driving I did the math and these are my speeds at 3,000 RPMs in each gear The different between 3.55 and 3.8 is 1.3 MPH in first but in 5th cruising at 70 MPH is 2184 RPM with 3.55 and 2338 with 3.8 gears. Fifth is not usable at 3.55 until about 65 MPH (2000 RPM) but with 3.8 2000 RPM is 60mph. I think the 3.8 is the best balance of high and low. 3000 RPM Speeds 3.55 3.8 Difference 1st 19.52 18.24 -1.28 2nd 33.88 31.63 -2.25 3rd 51.9 48.48 -3.42 4th 65.39 61.09 -4.3 5th 96.17 89.94 -6.23

Manual pitman arm is straight on my 69.

Good advice. I cut all flanges, as there was about 1/16" warp mainly on #7 & #8. Have a slight choof now, I'm hoping as they heat and cycle they will pull in. I've got alloy heads so a bit wary of using a breaker bar to tighten the bolts to bring them in :)

You do some amazing things, those look great.

Have you considered one of the chemical release agents instead of wax? I use that in my resin transfer mold and it works great with no build up or potential damage to the mold surface. Just thinking out loud….. Otherwise………….DANG those look good (Mr. Picky Pants!). LOL!

If you mean the mounting plates on the back of the panels ,yes i will be bonding them in place

2oz high quality matt with ISO resin straight over tooling gelcoat ,never bleeds through ,has a much finer strand . The new panels will be 2 layers of 2oz matt ,way stronger than the original panels .

My garage was smelling like gas, ALOT! So I decided to investigate and dig into the fuel lines, and gas tank. Poor wiring and the wrong type of hoses, gas seeping from the connections, and the main fuel line routed next to the drive shaft!!! Bought some SS 3/8 PTFE Hose and 6AN fittings, and bulk head connectors from Hot Rod Fuel Hose. I also used these nifty connectors in the engine bay from Hotrod Hippie. I have had fuel smell from tank vents in the past, so I decided to go overkill on the tank vent hose. Using some 5/16 Gates Barricade Injection Fuel hose, overkill, but I had some from another project.) to a Newton TPV6 Pressure release valve, then to a hardline loop and draining out the rear of the car. More info on the GT500 hardline loop here: link The Newton valve is cool, it opens when you have pressure, and closes when things cool off. So no gas tank vent smell in the garage. The PO had purchased a new Tanks Inc system with a in tank pump. The only negative about this tank set up is having all the connections on top, so something needed to be done to protect those connections. The sound of the pump was also noisy. I added some sound deadener to the top of the tank and the entire trunk area. I also started to work on finishing out the trunk with a false floor. With the new floor, sound deadener, and a rubber mat - I can't hear the pump. I have zero smell now, and I think the Sniper is running better.

The constant voltage regulator can be adjusted but it affects the fuel, oil, and temperature gauges. On the back of the CVR is either a small post or screw, often potted in epoxy. Turning it one way or another changes all 3 gauges at the same time. My preference is to ensure I have a 1/4 tank of gas, and set the CVR so that the fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank exactly. Both the oil and water gauges are "indicator gauges", in that once you determine where normal is, once they deviate from that position, then something is amiss. They are not precision instruments.

Work continues. Wheel wells are welded in place.

If and when you change out the 3.00:1 gears, and if you want to sell them, let me know please.

Dayum, you do nice work.

Passenger side really came out nice .a few days of drying time and i am ready to make the molds .

Cleaned out the trunk from when we moved the Mustang to Virginia & started to work on the wiring in the trunk. @JayEstes your Coupe looks great.

Sounds good to me!

I also include a few pictures of our water and oil removal systems. I have what is essentially a transmission cooler on the compressor that takes the hot wet air and cools it off. You can’t touch the copper tubing going into it as it is way too hot, but the pipe coming out is quite cool. Ambient, maybe a touch more. Works well. There is a water and oil separator that takes out the condensed water before passing the air into the tank. Also, I have a desiccant dryer that uses 5lbs of desiccant beads. It is for spraying or blasting only.

Damn I knew there would have been an easier way.

While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:

Where's the drool emogi when you need it.

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible. These come highly recommended from local restoration shops. I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit. What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620. It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem. The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination. I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there. All of the hardware was very high quality. I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console. The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors. So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights

We had an extra space in our garage for the car but it was full of stuff from my dad's old house and all my hunting gear so I waited for a weekend in July when my wife was out of town and cleaned up everything and epoxy coated the garage floor. It was a lot of work but definitely worth it. I also had to sell my table saw and radial arm saw. Before: Kitchen while this was in progress (Don't tell my wife): After: I guess you could say I was nesting.

Lizard skin on the exterior of the car? Isn't that bedliner? WTF?

Waxed and 3 coats of mold release . Got ready to spray gel coat and ...i forgot to clean the gelcoat gun last time ! Damn damn damn ! Another gun down the toilet! Luckily i had an old back up ,now i get to buy another new one! Guess thats what happens when you are doing 10 things at once . One layer of mat today and finish up tomorrow and hopefully these molds will turn out with out any more surprises .

Spent 3 hours chasing nothing. Few days ago I put a new temp gauge in, cleaned the thread sealer out of the sender. All working, tick it off. Yesterday, went for a drive, lit it up in 1st and 2nd, temp gauge stops working. Ok, maybe a wire is crimped or fell off (it has an aftermarket dash voltage reg). Check resistance on sender, wiring loom, gauge. Seems to check out, except I made a rookie mistake and checked resistance across the gauge, not gauge to cluster chassis. Pull the cluster apart, check it all, reassemble. Confirm no shorts. Put the cluster back, plug it in. No temp gauge. (I know what y'all are thinking by now). Recheck it all. No electrickery leaks anywhere. Ground sender wire, gauge goes to the moon. Y'all are right.... Get 15/16" ring open end spanner. Haul on the sender and bush. Temp gauge works. Who woulda thought banging gears could affect the ground of a engine temperature sensor????