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First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down. My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website. Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups. Also my email has been cleared for future communications.

Well fixed perfect. I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod, the result is perfect pedal height great brakes. so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter. the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost . he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master. I will never really know.. but it is done. I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help thank..,sam thanks

So was able to test wires and ended up being the plug was faulty so I replaced it and all works well. Thank u to all for ur help.

I guess I got lucky installing my fuel sending unit. It went in easy peasy and didn't leak. Yet...

Started wiring the switches. Will be using some terminal blocks.

Sorry I’ve not posted in here for ages… Car was more or less ready at end of September and was getting it ready for a large local show over here in England. Basically I never got there because ihas all sorts of issues with my C4, which I bought used and was supposed to have been rebuilt….needless to say it screwed up, so no show… Collected the box and TQ today, so that will be going back in over next 2 weeks or so, when I get a spare moment. In the meanwhile, I’ve been busy tidying up/fitting new interior parts eg one piece headliner, BMW E30 seats, 3 point sets belts, gauge pod etc and tidy up engine bay wiring etc chris

I was looking for a hood for my car and noticed the shipping to me in Ohio would be around $150 to $175 from the different web sites. I then found a reasonable price for a Scott Drake hood with free shipping, it was shipped through FedEx Freight. I was somewhat impressed with the packaging from Holley sold through the dominant online retailer.

Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.

Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums? I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc. Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed. You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install. None of those problems switching to manual discs. So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step. Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.

I don't have any pics to post but I had to create some spacing on the backside of the bulb housings to replace what I cut off and so the bulbs sit right. I made spacers from PVC pipe, attached them to the bulb housings with JB Weld, primed with SEP then sprayed the area with spray-on rubber. They're solidly attached and not going anywhere. The headlight bowls were primed with SEP after completely coated with POR15 then top coated with KBS satin chassis black and the rims were sprayed with the spray-on rubber.

Progress is always good no matter how slowly it goes. It's definitely more progress than I've got done.

Oh, here is the website. I am not in any affiliated with this company. Billet Automotive Buttons - Design your own custom billet buttons 12v

I could have sworn it was RPM's fault...

Hello I'm having the Christmas sale again this year. Christmas Sale 10% off all orders on in stock items November 27th thru December 5th. Enter coupon code XMAS2022 at checkout https://www.vintageleds.com/store/c2/Mustangs.html

They are 5.5” backspace. Probably could have gone with 6” and used a spacer to get it a little more right on, but I don’t think they make these in 6” backspace.

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in. Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger. I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids. Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January. So excited. Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop. Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time. I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps. My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else. Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people. So share your stories, encouragement and advice. Drivetrain Plan: Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan: I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff. I could potentially do all the following Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!

I just bought 15x10 rear wheels with 275/60 drag radials. The car has a 1" lowering block in the pictures, so that's probably going to have to come out to gain some clearance. Stock 9" rearend and caltracs. (Not installed yet.) The fronts are skinnies.

Update Just noticed it's still listed on Ebay but price is now 90K. This paragraph from the "dealer" just kills me Condition: Used Seller Notes: “We represent this vehicle to the best of our ability; however, we strongly encourage all interested parties to come and see the vehicle in person or have a third party inspection. All purchases will be charged a $250 PRE-DELIVERY SERVICE CHARGE*. Additional charges such as sales tax, tag fees, registration fees, government fees, shipping charges, or finance charges may be charged depending on the state you are registering the vehicle and/or having it transported. (*This charge represents costs and profit to the dealer for items such as inspecting, cleaning, and adjusting vehicles, and preparing documents related to the sale.)”

Agree. I've had mine 3 years and they have been flawless.

The only thing I could add is if your car's engine is pretty much stock making lot of vacuum, power assist will work fine. If not tho and making low vacuum in my opinion u would be better off with manual discs. This is me been there done that thing

Thank you, the extra space is great. It is nice to finally be getting the shop organized the way I want so I can get back working on the Mustang again.

If the width is stock 28 spline axle in a big housing would utilize an 88128-RA.

Scuff with a green scotch brite then either sems satin black or a good quality spray can . You can primer but very lightly or it will fill in the grain

What painting recommendations do you have Ridge?

Hmm good point, don't know but will have to check that out. Thanks Bob

Top of my head without any research I'd say $750.

NO. 63 and 763 have nothing to do with the pump. Again: Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity (wires removed) from where wires 950 white/black stripe and 951 green connect to the wiper switch. with the knob depressed.

That would be me ! I still make them .

When I glued in my windows on my 69 vert I used 3M Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 08641, 47.3 mL Cartridge with the Dispenser Gun, 50ml Dispensing Gun Kit Impression Mixing Dispensing Dispenser AB Gun 1:1/1:2 that I got on Amazon for $22. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMXTBW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Everything worked great and it was so much easier than using a caulking gun with various items installed to try to make it work. Yes, I tried it and it was a disaster.

There is a hole in the body for the clip to attach. My tmi sail panels just came unglued when I snapped it in. Ridgerunner on here makes nice fiberglass replacements if you want another option.

I do, it is stored at my parents place in many pieces.... One day. If covid didn't happen it would have been happening already. But I'll push it back until I'm too old to work on it! Just kidding! Hopefully anyway

It has been almost a year, but true to his word, Bruce gave me first shot at it when he decided to put it back up for sale. Thank you Bruce. Bruce texted me on Wednesday to see if I was still interested. I drove 12 hours to get there on Sunday and it is in my garage now. I can’t wait to get to work on it. Bruce has done all the hard stuff already. Plenty more to do and more parts to buy. This car goes to the front of the line in my garage. Now I have a brother to my 1970 Mach 1.

Torino has been sold.

If you ever wanted to know what Ben looks like.....

I bet it happened when someone said ,here ,hold my beer!

Thank you sir! I was beginning to get the shakes!

I have 18x9 torq thrust 5 bs 285/35/18 rear. 18x8 4.5 bs front 255/35/18 front.

Tonight I worked on getting the remnants of the roof off the car. Spot weld cutter front and back, and a death wheel used as a grinder on the sides. I still have the passenger side to do. @viperpete I am attaching the photo of my front floor support pin. Its the one I was talking about in message. I think maybe that hole isnt meant for the X measurement. I think I need to remove it and go with a flat plate like you have at the very front of the floor support.

A friend at work bead blasted my headlight buckets for me, he's currently doing my headlight extensions. I found I needed to increase the hole on the backside by almost 3/8 inch to clear the back of the bulb housing. I also had to trim 3 tabs off the bulb housings, they were larger and didn't match the buckets. Touched up the backside of the bulb housings where I cut off the tabs with POR15 (the backside is metal). Coated the inside surface of the headlight buckets with POR15. Have to coat the backside then paint. Thinking of coating the rim of each bucket with a couple coats of spray rubber. I'm thinking it might prevent any rubbing of the headlight housing when mounted.

I too had the same problem on my sons car. We fabricated a patch as I considered replacing the whole panel but the complexity of it interfacing with surrounding panels and rockers led me to my choice. However you must have side cowls removed to repair like this. Also make sure to put sealant on screw holes as they will leak when water runs down the cowls.

Just finished this one ,i have made several but i have yet to see a pic of it on the car finished . @newstang

last post. i shot a little video in car and also from underneath of the rear suspension.

A quick update: 1-the 408 stroker finally arrived in the crate across the pond after 9 month of delays, shipping issues etc 2-taken some times to get the various ancillary parts, shipping to U.K. is a real pain; JBA shorties etc 3-engine fitted and hoping to fire it up in next 3/4 weeks 4-just collecting the other parts to complete the car e.g glass will go in next 2/3 weeks car is booked into a major U.K. classic car show on 10 `July so has to be ready, but not sure if I’m going to make it chris

Been making steady but what seems like slow progress over the last 2 months, whilst waiting for some parts to come over via US. New brake lines installed. Had a right game bench bleeding the master cylinder but all done now. Wiring harness is in and connected - thanks to Randy at Midlife for the refurb one, top drawer as usual - all electrics work fine All lights now working including my new sequential LED’s - love them ! Original column refurbed and manual steering all now complete - but I think the internal column is way to close the external housing nr to the coupling - I’ll put a post up in tech parts of forum - any thoughts ? (going to EPAS later down the line) the 408W stroker is about to land via US to Felixstowe U.K. in the next 10 days, been a long time coming, then I’ll fit it and hopefully drive it around the block Chris

Sorry it’s been a fair time since I’ve updated progress. Relatively slow progress we work has been so busy, but I’ve started the long refit process: street or track front suspension in rear suspension in with axle fuel tank and lines in Changes to manual steering, quick rack, ready for EPAS later down the line Just trying to work out the brake lines and prop valve (bought a booster via mustang steve, we manual before) rear lights, bumper and new flush lenses with LED’s in just keep working up my new parts list, stuff is so hard to get over to U.K. at the moment, having to work 2 months in advance. 408W engine via Blueprint is on 5 month lead time (ordered 2 months ago) Chris

Shipped a hood out through a company here in Cali. Last week ,got a message from the buyer it was damaged in shipping ,shipping company shoved a fork lift fork through the box and cut a rear corner off the hood . Some times you get a part through like it is supposed to be and sometimes you dont its getting kind of like a crap shoot shipping now days ,i guess 1 out of about 200 isnt bad though .