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I have a sqeak coming from somewhere behind the front seats. After much investigation I found if I turn up the stereo real load the sqeak goes away.

Years ago a guy on another forum asked if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.

I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory.

It's been a long while since I've posted a update but a good friend made my MC bar recently and I finished my plug wires just now. The msd ones I had on were rubbing against the shock towers. Next I run my starter solenoid and power line then wire up the contour fans. Just a single 10ga power wire to each from my relays inside controlled by my Dakota controller and I'll ground them to the frame or something. Then I'll start hiding all the wires with my flame retardant wire loom and make it look nicer. Almost.....

Midlife just to let you & everyone else know the wiring pigtails for the oil pressure & coolant temp sending units #-14489-12A was a perfect fit. Thanks again for the info.

Brahahaha. Airplane.

I reached out to Danno and I'm happy to report that he is ok and still has the Mustang. He says life got busy but plans to return to the site when things subside and he has the time again. :)

The recent discussion about axle housings got me curious and would like to ask for some confirmations or corrections. As I recall I took these measurements with the car up on jack stands. So some areas are hard to get at and probably not accurate down to the 1/4". Thanks Brian

My bad, I must have had my head up my rear that day. Could you not just grind a bit off the caliper where the rotor is rubbing or is it in a place where u can't. I would check the dia. of that rotor tho because if it is a little oversize that would be an easy fix.

Wake up fellers! Just a bit slow on here eh? Finally got my Quick Fuel 680cfm vacuum secondaries (Holley based) carb dialed in real nice. Was having a stumbling issue at WOT, not that I do that even close to a regular basis. But it bugged me never the less. Started by increasing the jet sizes on the secondaries without any effect. Then increased the primaries without any effect. After doing some reading and calling a few guys, I increased the the power valve from 6.5, which Holley says is correct from their math, to a 9.5. The motor never performed better. Butt, the afr at highway cruise was way low at 12.5. Swapped in an 8.5 and all is well. Great afr numbers at idle, acceleration, and, WOT. Know how my Mustang likes to change on its own, so knows how long this will last.

I have a TKX in my 70. But I have a different transmission mount from those. I have no idea what brand it is as it came with the car. The first mount you showed should work just fine.

That is the one I used with my TKO, but I cut the loop and connected to the TKO's NSS harness. You can use it to by pass the NSS or use it to make the NNS work.

While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:

The guys that did my shaft (I dropped you a PM) made sure I knew about that little issue of losing the washers. Hopefully this fixes it for you.

That's a nice looking Monte Carlo bar. Where did ya get it, and what's something like that cost?

Try unbolting the master cylinder & pull it forward a little & make the back seal in the master cylinder is not leaking fluid into the brake booster. I have had this happen to me & it drove me nuts until I found it.

It's been a while since I posted an update, and a lot has changed! After sitting about a year and a half on the waitlist, my body shop is ready to start on the car. I stripped the car of every last panel and bolt, in preparation for sending it off to Xpress Metal Cleaning in Phoenix, AZ. There I had it acid dipped to remove everything but the steal. Next week it gets picked up and delivered to the body shop to start the real work! The car did look pretty good before the dip, and people would ask me, "Why are you doing this, the car looks great as it is!" Well, one look at the quarter panels after the acid dip is all I needed to know that I did the right thing! Once we have it back and can look at it in person, we'll determine of the quarters will need to be reskinned. Right now I'm thinking yes. Teardown begins! Loaded up for transport: Squeaky clean after the dip:

yep, I have this in my TKO600 aswell. np, happy to share the info! aint no way Im paying $40 dollars more, plus ship/tax for a shifter that's being resold. no offense to MDL, but the price gouging is insane.

It's quite on this page :) My slooow progres on engine:

Thanks Bob, will give it a go

64-73 have the same spring pad center to center width of 43”.

Converted mine to manual steering when I put in the 351W/T5 still loving it. That was at least 8 years ago

I have a Ron Morris controller I planned to use then one I got the Dakota rtx I saw it was available and the phone programming like you said sold me!

Looking good so far @lalojamesliz Those Contour fans are a great mod, especially with the DD Controller, its so helpful that you can set the control temps via phone.

Hi mate, yes a new tailshaft/driveshaft. I had the same problem with the previous driveshaft which is why I've replaced it with new good quality uni's. I must be close because what ever I did has affected the vibration (worse). Actually to the point where I am afraid to sit at that speed for fear of throwing the driveshaft. As I have disturbed the rear shock mount I will check the pinion angles again just to make sure nothing has changed. Juts need to be away from it for a few days.

I am WELL acquainted with those boots! I chased a rattling front-end noise for YEARS, tightening everything I could get a wrench on, replacing everything rubber I could find. Finally, someone here mentioned to me to check those insulators, and lo and behold all of them were missing!! What a pain! Since this was my first Mustang, I didn't know that they were supposed to be there! So yes, those have been replaced! Is it possible that the pins are sticking slightly, causing the flex in the caliper? I lubed them when I replaced the brakes, but maybe not good enough. I also had to take a razor blade and puncture the end of the boot, because the suction was causing me problems removing the pins.

Just for info, internal parts have weight removed and added to them on an external balanced motor.

If I'm not mistaken, Chocko claims that Vettes used the same PS unit as Mustangs and he didn't get the complaints from the Vette guys. I wouldn't be afraid of a factory PS unit, especially from Chocko, and he will be rebuilding mine.

That's good to hear Phil. I emailed him, but didn't hear back. It's probably my bad breath, or attitude. Maybe both. Another one who's mia is Bob and Sue. I've emailed him a couple of times without a reply.

I'll wager he's at the police station handling various miscreants in Hawaii: Book 'em, Danno!

I think you are right to be troubled about the flex-plate. That would be my first guess. Brian

I run a Holley 3310-1 on my 428. Car/motor w/manual stock 4 speed and 3.25 rear gear runs pretty good at all speeds. Congratulations on the fix. Carbs can be tricky to dial in. What bugs me? 6.5 mpg. Sometimes I feel like doing something about it. Then I remember; " if it ain't broke ". Brian

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

By replacing the circuit card, your gauges are probably shorting out to the metal case. Measure resistance between any gauge post and the metal dash cluster itself, and if you see 1 or 14 ohms (approximate), then one of them has shorted (all are connected via the CVR output line except for the ammeter). Loosen the nuts and re-set the gauge until you get kilo-ohm resistance. There should not be a separate ground line to the dash cluster; there is a separate ground line that attaches to every item that uses a ground, including the main lug that holds the CVR in place. The latter is how the dash cluster itself gets its ground, in addition to any screws that holds it in place.

Grey is probably the carb anti-stall wire. You can ignore that. The PRNDL wire is brown or blue/red. And yes, the BU and NSS wires are all in the same plug.

While there are always variances I do believe the spring purch are 43” center to center same as the frame rails.

Wait a minute, didn't I see that on an episode of MacGyver? ;)

Removing post to help avoid any further confusion.

Worked like a charm. I measured twice and cut 4 times (doh) but this finally did the trick. I was able to move the trans over by 1/4" (maybe even just 3/16") and it got rid of my rubbing. My crappy old rubber mount may need replacing soon anyway (it's old.) but it's an easy thing to modify again if required. Driveshaft goes in next, so fingers crossed all my trans/driveshaft/pinion angles are good.

Mike, the internal metal part should already be split, try expanding it with center punch or something else conical before you split it (again) with side cutters.

I envy you guys who have the talent to do the hood black out on these 69 Mach 1s. I didn't think I had the skill or patience to do it correctly, so I just painted the entire hood. Ya, I pussed out.

I got the repaired tailshaft back and went to fit it. The new yoke is longer than the old yoke so it wouldn't fit. I took it back to them yesterday to have it shortened 3/4". Starting to lose confidence with this company. Next will be the argument of paying for all of this. Fingers crossed the vibration is gone at the end.

is 30K actually reasonable for this ? Haven't bought on in years ?

When I replaced the flex plate that I had damaged I told the engine shop bloke that I had replaced it. He said If I bring the old and new flex plates he can balance against the old. I had already thrown it out. Still kicking myself.

Ponderosa lodge burned down ,a propane tank exploded ! Reservation road up to Eagle Mountain cassino is totally washed out so they are shut down for who knows how long . Camp Nelson is totally washed out ,my aunt lives there. The road to Balch park is a total mud slide . The whole back side of Lindsay is flooded and so is a lot of Porterville . Highway 99 has flooding in several areas . We have another big storm tomorrow that is supposed to dump anywhere from 2 -3 inches so that is going to ad to it a bunch ! Our flooding has receded about 10 feet from the marker i hammered in yesterday but with what is coming tomorrow it just may make it in the shop again . Red cross helicopters have been flying over all day taking supplies to the mountain communities that really got hit hard ,going to be an interesting next couple of days .

Water is going over the spill way at lake success

The kern river going through Bakersfield actually has water in it now.

Part 14 - Fuel line, power steering bracket, dash and diff As I had managed to trash the existing fuel lines when putting the box in, I bought more hard line. 25 feet of alloy 9/3/8" tube for 45 bucks. Not really wanting to run it back up the tunnel, I decided to run it down the side. The passenger side seemed the obvious, as my fuel filters were on that side. I used two filters for the Sniper, the first is a 40 micron and the second is a 10 micron, as per Holley's spec. These are made by Aeroflow, which is a brand owned by one of Australia's first top fuel drivers. I've used a bit of their stuff, mainly fittings and fuel stuff and it seems to be OK. I didn't quite get it all but what you see is the supply line coming out of the trunk floor into the first filter, looping around to the second and then exiting stage left to the new fuel line. The hose running across the top of the lower filter is the return line. What I realised afterwards is I should have started at the front and worked my way back, but I started at the back and went forwards. So the front pipes look a bit ugly and they are; too many bends and straightens. The radius needed to go vertical was more than most 3/8" pipe benders can handle. The only way I saw they would route without drama is through the torque box, so I made 2 x 3/4" holes. I wanted to protect the pipes from damage and planned to wrap them in hose (and the Borgeson return hose was just the thing to use). Measure twice, cut once right? My first attempt didn't take into consideration my bender would not fit so out came the drill again. I had thought initially of popping the pipes through the fender and crimping fuel hose to them, but I realised the wheel and tyre would probably hit them. Especially as there was an original hole I could use. Turns out the grommet was as hard as rock so had been there since day dot. I decided to use bulkhead fittings to keep the pipes tight and make them secure. Luckily Aeroflow has hard line to -6 AN fittings, so I bought two of them, and ended up like this. I know the angle are shiite but I had bent this pipe so much I was worried it would just crack. So ugly and bad it will stay. I did feel bad drilling holes into the original body, when I chipped back the sealant it has the original paint under there (I assume it is original). Moving on back, I ran the pipes along the sill join, tucked them up with the floor transition and up around the iner wheel arch and dropped them under the centre of the rail. I had some P clips I used but then found that Aeroflow have pressed twin line clamps that look pretty neat, so I bought some. At 8 bucks each I'm not going to use them everywhere but They are supplied with soft self tapping screws which strip when used on decent gauge steel, so I put rivnuts in with stainless button head screws. A little bot of new hose and the fuel line is done. I have to cut new hose to the carb once I put that back on and then fix them to the new line with -6 fittings. I'll also wrap them in heat sleeve as they go past the headers. That chore done, I started working on the power steering pump. The Borgeson kit does not impress; the return line is straight out of the pump and will foul the exhaust, the bracket supplied is low rent. It has 2 spacers supplier, a long and short. Well, the long is too long for a '70 and the short are no use at all. Plus, the pump hangs off and some weird angle due to the mount hole location. At maximum belt adjustment it looks wrong. At minimum belt adjustment it looks wronger. Who on earth thought this was a good plan? Plus, it is at least a 1/4" out of alignment The issue is the top bolt interferes with the can and you have to have it on an angle. My brilliant idea was to add a plate to the rear of the bracket, use a cap head bolt for the top mount and rotate the bracket around to keep the pump vertical, and not as close to the inner fender. A byproduct of this was the oil pressure switch now fouled the back of the pump. Originally I had a late model oil adaptor that put the sender vertical, but when I used one with the 45 degree angle, we had plenty of clearance. This picture has the tube fitting with a -6 fitting for the return line, the delivery hose and the oil sender. Now, the pump sits vertical at minimum belt adjustment All I need now is a new 1/2" grooved pulley to match the belt and we are done here. Some people have reported that the hoses Borgeson supply are too short. I have the V8 kit and I found the pressure hose to be slightly too long. Not by much but it does put a bit of tension on the fittings. I am also putting a cooler on as the hoses are very close to the headers. I got some heat sleeve from Aeroflow (15 bucks/3 ft) which is rated to 500 C so should be OK. To keep it neat I sealed the ends with heat shrink Without the return line being plumbed this is what they will look like That done I moved right along to the dash. I had been waiting for a new bracket to arrive and it turned up. Another 69 and 70 difference - the triangle bracket that supports the pedal box and column is different for both cars. Pictured below the 70 bracket is on the bottom and the 69 on top. You can all thank me later :) The 70 is also more of an even triangle, and the 69 is a bit offsided. With some new bolts I finally tightened up the column and reinstalled the dash. The crash pad with the car was some low rent reproduction with a fibreglass back, and it didn't fit to the windshield very well. In a fit of something I stumped up $850 for a dashes direct pad from a local supplier. Fits perfectly and looks like it was made for it. Which it should do, as it is made using a Ford die. Somewhere in the midst of this I also pulled the 3rd member and got it to the diff guy to install a True Trac and a set of 3.55 gears. I'm keeping the 8" as he tells me it will survive with the power I think I'll have. He does a lot of direct speedway stuff and has a good name so I will trust him. Until there's a Big Bang and we no longer move forwards :( I also took the old driveshaft to be modified. Looks like it needed about 1.5" taken off to fit (the car did have a C4 auto in it and I changed it to a TKO600). Well, when I get there and tell the man what I need, he looks at the shaft and laughs. So did I, this is typical of the whole car 'rebuild' So you have a 1310 diff yoke and a 1330 driveshaft uni. What to do? Meh, just make them fit somehow.... And that's todays random rebuild shot.