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Oooh! Oooh! <Raises hand> Green wire with black female bullet: AC clutch lead Greyish blue wire with female bullet: carb solenoid anti-backfire blue/red or black: PRNDL lamp lead <Asks for hall pass, due to wet pants>

I had the exact same problem with my last date.

I'd recommend stepping up to a used Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car.

Pick it up next week. New toy for the missus, we only get autos in convertibles down here. Not a bad grocery getter!!!

Does this apply to wives? I've moved her around the shop more than 7 years and she still won't leave...

I aint walking no where ,the couch is my buddy

Thanks David. I too thought you were referring to the OP's past experience, and didn't see anything wrong with barnett's reply. I'll blame my lack of understanding on too many concussions. Unlike some forums, this is supposed to be a friendly forum where all can share knowledge and where newbies aren't run off. I have a hard enough time fingering out what folks are saying to my face, and typing on the internet only makes it worse. Happy motoring.

Ok, dusted off my C-6 and my TCI converter. Getting ready to move transmission into car. So, getting close to my engine install....soon..

Oh yeah...airshocks. I had the Gabriel Hi Jackers on my early Mustangs. In those days, for some reason, we thought it was cool to paint the rear end housing white, or silver. Then bolt on some Lakewood traction bars, and a set of chrome reverse rims with trim rings....and you were ready to plug in the 8 Track and blast your favorite tunes...maybe BTO "Not Fragile", or Deep Purple "Machine Head"..... I had a Craig "Power Play" 8 Track.... It had a locking side plate so you could hide it in the trunk.... those were the days...

Making great progress on the custom rear bumper project for the Boss! Slow going but it's turning out just the way we wanted. Always a plus! http://1970boss302.blogspot.com/2018/04/rear-bumper-fabrication-project-part-2.html

That's ACC hot. What you want for an electric choke is a RUN-only wire. In the engine compartment, the best source is the green/red wire at the voltage regulator plug. For 1970's only, there's a large white female bullet with a greyish-blue wire for the carb solenoid anti-backfire solenoid; that wire is also RUN-only.

One other thought is to make sure wherever the ground wires are bolted on be sure to sand & clean the area of contact don't just rely on the bolt threads for a solid ground, then touch it up with some engine bay paint & cover it with dielectric I like using grounding blocks it gives you more connections in the future. I have a set of 16' Fluke cables that I can reach any point on the car to check continuity from all grounding points. I went through the car making sure I had continuity from neg battery to every grounding point I could find, I found several with poor connections. A bit off topic our last boat the PO had connected 12v grounds to the bonding side (120 volt system) & 120 volt grounds to some 12v grounds this led to stray current in the water when plugged into shore power which could have killed someone in the water or me in the bilge if there was water present. It took me several days of sorting out wires to get it correct. 4 AWG wire is plenty for your system here's a good calculator to to determine amp loss of anysize wire. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=0.8152&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=10&distanceunit=feet&amperes=60&x=86&y=18

You need a ground wire to the firewall or some other place on the chassis. This provides a ground for the rest of the car, e.g. instrument cluster, lamps on the outside of the car, etc.

ah ha!! I have never heard that, and THAT explains why I don't have one. I'll be damned. Thank you.

Fixed it for you.

P.S. I'll give ya $10 for that now useless snorkel Bigmal :)

I always prefer to do a butt weld, but I also like to back it up with a Copper Backer Plate wherever possible. The weld will not stick to the Copper, and makes it much easier to fill any holes and burn-through with the Copper acting as a heat sink as well as a backer plate. I took a 3/4" Copper Tube, and flattened about 6" of it it with my Hydraulic Press so I have a Copper Backer with a handle good use in for most areas...

The 56 and travel trail are a perfect match.

Total Control Products. I had it powdercoated.

So, I'm in the middle of another T-56 Magnum transmission swap, but this time as a helper on my brothers 1970 Plymouth 'Cuda. So not much has been done with the Mustang lately. But I did get the Spal dual fans fitted to the radiator yesterday. It was a bit taller than the registry of the radiator, so a little bit of cutting had to be done. I also had to make pockets in the shroud for the hoses and the petcock drain. All in all I'm very satisfied with the installation. Maybe I'll paint the bolts black, but they are galvanized. Cutting line for the upper portion. This ridge rests on the weld between the tank and registry on the radiator. So does the bottom one. You can see the hole in the shroud for the upper hose. Done. The shroud fits very well, and is mounted solid. The radiator is an DeWitts. I'm very happy with the appearance of the radiator. Looks stock. Mounted in the car, I got just under 1/2" clearance to the alternator pully, but the rubber in the mounting cradles are still a bit tight, so I have some fitting to do with those yet. The upper one don't fit at all.

xlnt. i would rotate the torque converter 2 full turns while pushing on it lightly to make sure it is still properly seated in the trans then rotate it so the studs are approximately in the same position the holes in the flex plate are. make sure you have the converter drain plug lined up with the drain plug access hole in the flywheel. once the engine is around 1" away from the trans, check the converter stud alignment again. you can use a screw driver to rotate it a little if you can't get your finger in there but there are sharp edges so be careful. file or sand any burs on the big steel alignment pins on the back of the block then put a little grease on them so they go into the trans easily. the trans or engine may need to be rotated slightly to get the pins to align. rotating either a little is not hard to do. be very careful when turning the valve on the hoist to lower the engine as it can be very easy to turn it too much which can cause the engine to drop very quickly. one thing i do when tightening the valve is to tighten it just enough to keep the engine from lowering. if you close the valve pretty hard, it can be hard to open, and when you try to open it, it can suddenly snap open and open farther than you wanted to which is when the engine can drop quickly. with the trans jacked up close to the bottom of the trans tunnel, the engine mounts will be above the mounts on the body by maybe 1" after you bolt the trans to the engine. once you get to this point, you can lift the headers from the engine bay and see if you can install them if you want. this may make it slightly easier than trying to install them after the engine is all the way down. use the tilt bar on the hoist to tilt the engine to the same angle as the trans. i look at the gap from the top and from under the car to get it as close as i can.

Thanks everyone for their opinions and help. I have never installed an engine before so I was asking for advice, and am thrilled with the ideas here! Let us be calm and not pick at each other, as we all have information the share. It is up to the person that asked the question to decipher it all and make their own decision(s). Engine goes in today, with the help of my father (68) and son (23)! So looking forward to it, not only getting it done, but the time spent with three generations! I will report back with results, time it took, and hopefully picture with it installed.

Not sure. It was in the carpark and I thought MAC390 would like it being a Charger fan. It was way beyond economical resto unless it was a rare model. I couldn't anything that didn't need fixing. The interior was as bad as it gets. I follow them on Facebook and they had it on about a week ago so it must be for sale. Maybe its like the original Bullitt or a GT500 and a collector will save it.

Thanks , I may just go through with it after all. I will have to do bracing like yours.

Man , that's a real project but we are all suckers for punishment when it comes to these cars.

Yep, I saw that too yesterday, but thats no big deal. I can fab up that stuff.

How people install and remove engines is really as much personal preference as anything. I like to have the transmission and my long tube headers in and then put the engine in. But if the headers have never been bolted to the engine you are going to use, be sure to fit them outside of the car. There can be variances and it's really easy to grind out a bolt hole a little or whatever BEFORE everything is all in. I like to bolt as much stuff on an engine as practical before I put it in. To do so you kind of have to have had pulled the engine out with as much as possible still attached to it so you already know what you can leave on or not. It's not that big a deal bolting things on though.

I put mine here, pretty well hidden behind the seats.

If I did not have all of these digital boxes, I would have done it differently, but if you don't have a good ground, you will find out the hard way. Let me know when you get started in earnest on the AAW harness. I have lots of lessons learned. If you know how to use Excel, I can send you my spreadsheet, and then wak you through my approach. But, I mapped every wire on the harness.

thanks jay

hey - you really oughta bolt that shock down.. haha!

I put in Viking 2 way adjustable on all 4 wheels and set them to zero for the fist 10 miles to break them in, now the ride is pretty good with them set at level 2 & 3. I have Viking coilovers up front with global west control arms with Shelby drop and 4 1/2 leaf mid eye in the rear. My experience in the past was I could never get single adjustable right to where I wanted them. I think QA or Viking are good choices.

Thanks guys, my blanking plate turned up last night. Exactly what I wanted. Shep69 I will post the horn today.

Unless your shaker vacuum flap is always open, you're going to want some air to get to the carb. I cut a piece of perforated metal to size and used the screws to attach it.

If you use copper tube as backing, make sure you make a handle from something that does not transfer heat fast. Copper tube piece heats up real fast.

A leaking exhaust can sound very similar to lifter noises...I'd check that out first.

Well I believed only GTs had GT stripes... And no mention of the Sport Appearance Group on this document? Some info here: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16175.0 Apparently the tape stripe found on the 600 was not exclusive to it. Just like the Grande Stripe. At least that’s what Marti tells us.

Barnett, It’s a Mach 1 stripe you are showing us here. From what I understand, the sport appearance group tape stripe mentioned in some Marti Reports was different. The same as the one found on the 600 limited edition. Actually, the stripe was not the same on Sportsroofs and coupes. The stripe was running higher and farther to the rear on coupes. See pics below to get a better idea. G

I am trying to imagine how the 2 issues could be connected. Issue 1 is revving high, and issue 2 is running with the key off. The only possibility is the wire from the starter solenoid to the ignition coil. In the system there is a separate wire to supply 12 volts to the coil when the key is in the start position. When the key is in the RUN position, the coil gets about 9 volts because of the resistor wire. If this wire is shorted to 12 volts (maybe in the starter solenoid), it would supply 12 volts to the coil if the ignition is off or on. Giving the coil 12 volts instead of 9 volts could provide a larger spark, and if the carb mixture is rich, it could run faster with a stronger spark. If this is not it, you must coincidently have 2 separate issues occurring at the same time.

This is exactly what I have decided to go with except the roller lower arms I've never seen those. I did install a negative wedge kit on my upper control arms the other day. I'll try to post pics here soon. I have to get the template to lower them on the shock tower still. Slow, but progress is underway.

I have never experienced too much golf.

I have KYBs all round , i like the firmer ride and most of my roads are crap. Have the larger sway bar on front and adjustable rear bar.

I had a set of KYB's on mine and it beat me to death every time I hit the smallest bump. Much smoother with Bilstein's.

Hi Phil, at first I wondered why you would want a code reader for a car that didn't have a computer and couldn't spit out codes. That's a cool old analyzer. The thing you have to remember about electronics is that it doesn't last forever. If it has any electrolytic capacitors in it, they will have dried up by now and if it works it won't be accurate. If you're worried about checking the electrical system, most of it can be done with a little hand held VOM- volt/ohm/ammeter. The things I've used the most in the nearly 50 years I've owned the car are (in no specific order): VOM, compression gauge, vacuum gauge, timing light, remote starter, and a tach/dwell meter. The dwell meter is really more useful on a Chevy where you can lift up that little door on the side of the cap and dial in the dwell instead on a Ford where you have to set it with a feeler gauge and then be disappointed when you check it with the dwell meter ;) These are really very simple machines made complex by the number of parts. Have fun with it.

Heck of a job there Mac, congrats!

If the hose specifies with A/C it would be for a 24" radiator.

Nice car. I wonder what a detailer could do with that paint. Probably magic.

Its Alive! IMG_1263.MOV

That pinion support looks huge against the red primer

This thread is still here ?? I took the third member apart.it has 5.14s and a mini spool 31 spline .i will not be using those gears ,that motor would be turning 7 grand on the free way. I cleaned the aluminum pinnion support ,looks like new .It has billet steel caps ,like to never found a socket to fit in to remove the bolts.I glass beaded the N case ,it is spotless ,i blew it out well and washed it out with acetone. Masked it off an sprayed it with dtm epoxy ,this is like a plastic coating when cured ,i will let it cure for ...ah who am i kidding ,it will probably set a couple of months before i get back to it :( I still have to order the Detroit locker and a set of 3.50 gears