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  1. 8 likes
    Some twilight pics from my drive last night. It's a great feeling that even with the gremlins I'm chasing that I can still take it out and enjoy it some. Looking forward to getting them settled and taking the car to shows, though I missed the spring / early summer show season for the most part. Definitely can't rush this build. Not enough hours in the day or dollars in my pocket to do that!
  2. 6 likes
    Who knew a overflow bottle could create such a HEATED topic lol
  3. 3 likes
    Gauge Operation EDIT: When saved the drawing that went here was deleted. Dang this doesn't make a whole lot of sense without it! I'll try attaching a Word file. To fully understand this you have to understand that everything electrical needs power to come in and go out. The two “Chassis Grounds” (one at each end) are connected together through the metal of the chassis. They did this to save money. Instead of running two wires they only run the power wire and connect to the chassis for the other. So current leaves the battery, goes through the sender, gauge, dash regulator, and back to the battery. Power in and out. Actual current flow is from negative to positive, not positive to negative as Benjamin Franklin arbitrarily assigned it. Heck he had a 50-50 chance, but maybe the whole thing with the lightning, kite and key used up some of this luck. 1. The Battery: (or alternator- it doesn’t matter which) supplies the power. 2. The Dash Voltage Regulator: knocks the voltage down to 5v. Why? Because that's the voltage they designed the gauges to run on. They didn't want sparks in the gas tank. Those old regulators are quirky little devices. They heat up a bi-metal that opens a switch, and that cools it off, and it does it again and again continually until the key is turned off. This makes the output: on-off-on-off-etc. They have it set up to be “on” for 42% of the time so over time you get an on-off cycle that averages 5v. The gauges are “dampened” to react slowly to this on-off so it seems like a steady 5v to them. Today we use a solid state circuit to get us an instantaneous solid 5v. You can replace your old style dash regulator for one if you like. 3. The Gauge: this is really a simple motor that turns less than 180 degrees and has a pointer stuck on the end of the shaft. As I said, it is dampened so it responds slowly to input. 4. The Sender: is a variable resistor. Its a resistor that is variable. A resistor impedes (limits) current flow. You can think of it as a valve if you like, that can be open a little or a lot. All the senders on our old Mustangs vary from 10 to 78 ohms. It doesn’t matter if its an oil gauge or a gas gauge. So if the sender was at 10 ohms you would get the maximum amount of current through the motor (gauge) and get HI pressure or a FULL tank, but if it was at 78 ohms you would get the minimum amount of current through the gauge and get LOW pressure or an EMPTY tank. So your oil gauge doesn’t work; connect the wire at the sender to the block for a short period of time and see if the gauge responds. Don’t leave it on too long because the minimum resistance is supposed to be 10 ohms, not zero. The gauges are dampened so a short time won’t hurt, just don’t peg the gauge all the way over. If the gauge responds then replace the sender. If it doesn’t then it could be an open circuit (wire off) from the dash regulator to the gauge, or from the gauge to the sender, or a bad gauge. Instead of running wires on the back of the dash they saved money again and used a “Circuit Board”, which is copper printed on plastic. These can delaminate and get open spots over time but are available from the popular parts houses, or you can use real wires from one of our members- Midlife who makes a nice harness. Next, connect an ohmmeter to the wire at the gauge and the other at the sender end of the wire with it disconnected from the sender. It should read very close to zero. If it doesn’t then the wire is bad. The wire is #31 (white with red stripe) and goes from the sender through a plug (somewhere near the sender) then up to the plug for the circuit board. Its right in the middle of the plug, look for the white/red wire and connect the ohmmeter there and at the sender end. You can also test the gauge here. Connect a wire to chassis momentarily to see if the gauge responds. The key has to be on so make sure nothing is shorted with the gauge cluster pulled out, then connect to the white/red wire and chassis. If the gauge doesn’t move it is either the gauge or the circuit board. Ammeters in these beasts are a real weak link and usually only work for a short period of time. I can’t remember if mine ever worked. You can send them out and have them converted to a volt meter, which makes more sense anyway. They can keep the stock dial so it still looks like an ammeter if you are in to originality. Gauge operation, oil pressure.doc
  4. 3 likes
    and it was the first show of the year (been to several cruise-ins). great day. almost had a blue 69 mach mach on the other side but he missed parking next to me by one spot...
  5. 2 likes
    Window sealer on the leather couch ...thats a paddlin
  6. 2 likes
    Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275. The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315. Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it. Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
  7. 2 likes
    And again, don't get me wrong, I've been using them for 12 years, so I like them too! They just don't grip well at all per today's standards. On a side note, I too lived for a while (3 years +) on the Gulf Coast (Pensacola FL). And yes, it gets pretty hot in summer. It can rain pretty hard too. But when it does, there's way too much water on the roads to go drive a freshly restored Mustang. LOL G
  8. 2 likes
    That wear on new front-end tires has to imply that it wasn't set right when you had it aligned the first time. That or some part(s) you put in were put in wrong and/or are now damaged. The shelby (arning) drop should NOT be the issue. I'd bet $ the guy that originally aligned it, put it at max adjustment on the eccentric bolts, and said "damn - I can't do any better than that, just call it good". If they told you it was in spec when it left the shop the first time, I would be very suspicious. Like Barnett says - go somewhere else - I suspect you are going to wind-up at shims on the uppers due to lowering, shelby-drop won't cause this problem. I have stock spring lengths with shelby-drop and its fantastic. Bottom-line: I doubt it's your work or your car, it's likely that it was never aligned right to begin with.
  9. 2 likes
    I seem to be a spammer magnet, now if their screen name was somthing like Donna Hot redhead it wouldnt bother me a bit ...especially if she was ....but Dennisfag ,hells no!!
  10. 2 likes
    Lawyers are the least respected profession, but more than half the politicians are lawyers. I'm not sure there are enough wipes on the planet for politicians. I've got one to add though: journalist; 93 percent are liberal. If you follow the news it explains a lot doesn't it?
  11. 2 likes
    no, they don't . they ask $282.47 cents but never sell them . i know the owner.
  12. 2 likes
    You may not reach the goal you had wished to in this time but I can tell you that you've achieved more than many of us have in years.
  13. 2 likes
    leprosy is rare too but not many people looking for that either.
  14. 2 likes
    they either aligned it incorrectly or something loosened up which changed the alignment or something in the suspension was worn out before, or wore out after, the alignment . irregardless, you should NOT have to be asking what is wrong with it on an internet forum if you have it at a competent shop, so it sounds to me like you should take it someone that actually knows what the hell they are doing.
  15. 2 likes
    Been a while since my last entry. I've kept busy messing with finding a vibration and fixing tranny and engine oil leaks. The engine had a pretty good leak at the rear main. Now I normally don't believe in snake oil, but several guys over at Mustang Steve .com highly recommended Blue Devil brand rear main sealer. Added it to the oil and took a couple of short trips for two days. It pert near stopped the flow completely to a mere drip now and then, which I can live with. I fixed (so far) the FMX tranny leak by using The Right Stuff in place of a standard gasket. While the pan was off I welded on a fluid temp sender bung and a drain plug. Hopefully I won't find anymore red fluid on the shop floor. The drive train vibration turned out to be caused by having the 9 inch pinion angle way off. I had set it a good while back but don't remember adjusting it when I changed the rear coil over mounting points and raised the rear height. I spent today tearing down a 9 inch rear axle I picked up years ago at Pick a Part. Got a pleasant surprise when I found it had a traction lok 31 spline with 3.50 gears. Boxed up the gears to ship to Fresno for my good brother who's building a couple of carriers for me. The other will have a 2.50 ratio traction lok for long distance highway trips. Almost forgot, about a week ago I got fed up with the 1k rpm drone of my Thrush Turbo mufflers. Odd thing is I had them on my FE powered 56 F100 and they were nearly silent. I'm guessing twice the hp, headers and 2-1/2" pipes changes things. Welded on a pair of Dynomax stainless mufflers, which other than having a bit of a metallic sound, are sans the drone.
  16. 2 likes
    I have a AM/FM/ w/dash speaker. The only time I turn it on or can hear it is at a stop light. So if you can hear a radio you've got more work to do on your engine. Brian
  17. 2 likes
    Finally got around to finishing the blackout on the hood. Now its time to start putting the old girl back together.
  18. 2 likes
    Let me know if it happens again. We just applied a security update.
  19. 2 likes
    Car's back home. Not bad for paint that dates from December 1968. Don't look to close though!
  20. 2 likes
    Yes ,and it will stay in my shop under lock and key ,guarded by two big dogs ,a 12 gauge shot gun and a baseball bat while i finish up the body work ...this one aint going nowhere
  21. 2 likes
    Thanks! We couldn't be more happy with them and we have Mustangs to Fear to thank for referring them to us. We bought a ton of MTF parts and were looking to get the work done by them originally.. They were full and recommended GT Graphics and Customs.. They aren't local, they are actually 11 hrs from home! Thank you! We are ready to bring it to a few more shows then drive the heck out of it.
  22. 2 likes
    Man, I totally prefer the Cooper Cobra WLT over the BFG's. saves almost $50 (US) per tire in the 235/60 r15 version in my area, and looks everybit as good....
  23. 2 likes
    I really like the Black Jade as well. It's a great looking color on a '69. Your wife and kids may come around when they see it in person. That's a nice looking '72 convertible you have. Would love to see more photos of it.
  24. 2 likes
    Took the car to a local Top 20 show on Sat, 180 cars, took home a plaque "1st pick of the show host"
  25. 2 likes
    Thanks Mike ! I'd never heard of Green Sales but I will give them a call. Thanks again.
  26. 1 like
    center section: price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential). http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/ 31 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/ 35 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/ i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight). here is a 35 spline
  27. 1 like
    its a complicated question but i was also considering mileage when i suggested a 331 instead of something bigger . in general the bigger the engine the lower the mileage so the 331 will likely get worse mileage than a 302 but it will have more tire burning power. unless you have fuel injection and/or an overdrive, you will likely get around 14 mpg with a mildly built 331 at 100 - 110 kph.
  28. 1 like
    Looking good! Same thing I'm looking at but not sure if I need the 35 spline since I'm looking at getting 285 drag radials and possibly caltracs
  29. 1 like
    Oops ,i guess they are on the list ...probably should have been at the top
  30. 1 like
    they are NOT sought after an anyone that thinks they are is smokin crack . yes, there may be one or two people somewhere on the planet that might want it and whom might want to pay around $100.00 for it but finding them is like finding a needle in a haystack etc . if you want to sell it, put it on ebay in a fixed price ad for $100.00 ot offer . you can run it until it sells for FREE.
  31. 1 like
    Well that is certainly good news. But $10,000 bail??? Not too sure Pavel Tveretinov will show up with only a $10k bail amount which cost him $1,000.
  32. 1 like
    If your shop uses original alignment data, those won't work. Those are for radial tires. Modern tires require different specs.
  33. 1 like
  34. 1 like
    My experience with aftermarket sending units is that they are very inaccurate. I have tried a few of them and their resistance values are off from the factory ones. I have only tied them into the factory gauges though, and the last one I had read way too hot. I then found a used factory one in an old intake manifold, installed it, and it fixed the problem immediately.
  35. 1 like
    While the amp gauge to work is much more involved, Test the oil pressure first by grounding the wire at the sensor and flipping the key to the on position. If the wiring is good the needle will peg to the left. You sending unit my be bad. But also check for the eng to body ground straps are in place and any other grounding points. thsi is a main problem with miss reading guages.
  36. 1 like
    I will probably have to work ,been slow and all of a sudden flooded with orders
  37. 1 like
    There are a huuuge number of ways to miss-wire a car. Since many people have problems understanding the ignition system (which includes the starter), I drew a schematic and wire diagram, and then explained how it works. Maybe this will give you some insight as to what may be wrong. Since you don't have a stock system, it is difficult to guess how it should be wired. I'm guessing it is somewhere in the top part of the schematic relating to the solenoid and starter. It might help to post the starter instructions. If you remove the wire going to S on the solenoid does the starter still spin? If you reverse the wires on S and I and the key is in the run position, it will apply 5.7 volts to the solenoid coil, and it "could" pull-in. Mustang Ignition2.pdf
  38. 1 like
    this is similar to the griffen but not identical but it is a very good rad and "should" work...unless it is bore .040 over and/or you use a power adder or you have ac etc. it does not have a trans cooler. you can also call ron davis and matsons and spikes radiators to see what they have http://classicfordradiator.com/68-70FordMustangCougarAluminuBigBlockradiator24wideCopperRadiator-3-1-2.aspx http://www.spikeradiators.com/ http://www.mattsonscustomradiator.com/ http://www.rondavisradiators.com/custom.htm
  39. 1 like
    It will cost more to build an engine but you have no idea if the 306 was properly balanced or the machine work was good or if it has arp rod bolts or good rods etc . i never buy used engines unless i can test drive them first.
  40. 1 like
    How does the site look on your new flipphone?
  41. 1 like
    Still slowly getting things accomplished, snails have a quicker pace than I do lately. Didn't want to re-hash the usual grinding and fitting portion, so a little fast forward. The welds are all ground down, and the majority of the areas are semi trimmed to final size. Fitting pipes, welding V band clamp flanges, tacking stuff together... (with a gratuitous weld porn pic) With things coming together, a quick check to see if this fits, which thankfully it does. I have removed the muffler to cut the exit hole in the side and get these pipes attached. The extra long, drawn out exhaust build is getting ever so close to completion, yea!!
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  43. 1 like
    You can also use Play Dough or Silly Putty but put anything you use into a plastic bag or loosely wrap it in plastic food wrap so it doesn't stick to anything. Keep in mind that if you don't want to adversely affect performance, you need at least around 1 1/2" (37 mm) of clearance from the top of the carb to the bottom of the air cleaner and 2" (50 mm) would be better, but this clearance is sometimes less if you use a drop down air cleaner on a carburetor that has a choke on it because the choke gets close the the bottom of the lid.
  44. 1 like
    My 69 is having the original paint restored at the moment, it's very old and flat from years under the California sun. Below is how it's progressing. Right side shows how oxidised the paint is.
  45. 1 like
    Thanks! Yeah, I didn't get much sleep that night, got up and spent a few more hours with my budget spreadsheet and found that I'd made a math mistake in my favor, so I don't have to sell it for now (and hopefully not for years to come). Its been in the family for over 10 years and there are a lot of hours and memories tied up in it :)
  46. 1 like
  47. 1 like
    Hi guys, Just wanted to chime in here,First Off Mr. Linden Bruce knows his AOD's. I'd listen to anything he has to say. Smart guy, only wants to help you and has a lot of experience. Here is my experience with the AOD conversion from Mike's Transmission in Lancaster: I went with Mike's Transmissions in Lancaster Ca. I'm happy with the results but I did go back and forth with the flex plate, be aware your flex plate in the C6 won't work with the AOD. At least mine didn't. I had a custom flexplate made and re-balanced. I didn't' counting on that and the transmission shop struggled a little with this. I am happy with the transmission performance overall. Set up the pressure correctly. That was the hardest part for me. Tranny was beefed up so standard pressure settings didn't work out for me. After dialing in the transmission it runs awesome. I have the 351C (approx 450+ hp) that had the C6 and swapped to the AOD for the overdrive. I did this because of the 4.11 gears that had my car sound like an airplane taking off on the freeway. Very close to the same gears but with the OD. Torque converter is a 2800 stall and will rip my tires no problem. Only problem I have is hooking up. One thing I did is add a pressure gauge to read my transmission pressure while driving, I did this so I can easily set up the pressure with carb adjustments, removal etc. If you have any questions feel free to fit me up. FYI-- I went with Mike's Transmission after reading an article from a mustang magazine on line.
  48. 1 like
    I went with Lentech when I upgraded from my C4 and I am very happy with it. I believe Performance has a good rep too. I have read about staying away from PATC but I do not have direct knowledge of their transmissions. I did buy my new cross-member and a couple of other components from them and that worked out OK. I am not sure about the others, but Lentech re-engineers the valve body so the shift pattern works with the stock shifter.
  49. 1 like
    I did the same as Caseyrhe. I ended up cutting the bottle opener in half for easier access . I also used a small piece of rubber to protect the mouldings as I plan on re using it. Worked a treat.
  50. 1 like
    Yeah, me too. I was 11 at the time, a magical time of life before you got, well, old :) There was a movie out a few years ago called "1969" I never saw it but I bought the soundtrack for my Mustang. Looks like the jukebox in Pak's original post isn't around anymore, too bad.