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Me and my son went to a Fathers Day Car Show, took the People's Choice Award

A little bit off topic but the hood latch mechanism from an early '70 Ford pickup is an almost exact copy of the '69/70 Mustang except that it has a cable release instead of the under the front of the hood manual latch. It is an exact bolt in to the Mustang's, the only difference is the safety release lever is a little different as I recall. Just pull the truck's latch and remote cable, bolt in the latch and route the cable thru the firewall and mount under the dash next to the parking brake and you have a secure hood. A coil/fuel pump disconnect is a good (and easy) safety backup. I had a coil disconnect switch under my dash of my car but I did something a little different. I purchased a flashing 12v red led light (like they use on alarm systems) and mounted it into my dash. I purchased a Dual Mode Dual Throw (DMDT) switch which allowed me to either switch on the coil when I drove the car and when I wanted to secure it I would toggle the switch which would kill the coil and at the same time turn on the flashing led. I did not have an alarm on the car but the flashing red light would be a deterrent to a possible theft.

BSWOR you should consider pinning this post. A REAL Schematic Until now there were no entire car schematics for our cars, only wire diagrams. This schematic is 4 pages in four separate pdf files (a quirk of my CAD software). A real schematic rarely makes any attempt to identify wires or plugs or connectors. A real schematic tries to show the internal workings of a component when it helps to explain a circuit. A real schematic simplifies. A real schematic is used when you want to understand how a circuit works. A real schematic is what the designer makes first, then he converts it to a wire diagram. A wire diagram shows where wires go and how to connect them. You need BOTH to work on a car, unless the wire diagram is just so darn simple you don’t need the schematic. Our electrical systems consist mostly of switches and lights; around 44 and 41 respectively. Switches are either open or closed. This schematic only shows when a switch is closed. Usually that is indicated by a few simple words below the switch like on, off, run, start, etc. Pay attention to the top section of page one. It shows the most often used symbols on the schematic. I started this project so I could calculate the electrical loads and know what size alternator to get for my future needs (EFI, fuel pump, halogen lights, power windows, etc.) Amperage information for a stock 1969 Mach1 is in an accompanying spreadsheet (Mustang amps.xls) along with a chart of our most common electrical load: light bulbs. If you don’t like the loads I used to calculate “Likely constant amp draw”, by all means alter the spreadsheet to suit your needs, or use simple math- just don’t complain to me. My hope is that this schematic and spreadsheet become valuable reference tools for other hobbyists. Edit: I've seen quite a few questions about the 1970 turn signal circuit so I started another topic for "1970 Mustang Exterior lights". MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG1.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG2.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG3.pdf Mustang amps.xls MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG4.pdf

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine... http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

They are actually about $75 each. I have some Ford documentation stating that these circuit cards were introduced to improve reliability. I think not (speaking as a certified Reliability Engineer from the American Society of Quality). They are still using them today, but I don't think Ford ever intended them to last 40-50 years. The earlier design of wiring bulbs and connectors directly to the gauges is much more reliable. I think the term "more reliable" is better explained as "cheaper".

I think its because you are measuring in millimeters. Its rejecting your units of measure- that's about a quarter of an inch to us ;)

Update. I ended up going with PS Engineering wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspace with 245/45 On front and 17x9 5.25 backspace with 255/45 On rear. Was a bit worried about clearance on rear with 275/40, but will get them once these wear out. What do you all think? 17s do not look like to much rim on these classic muscle cars?

Ain't that the truth! And cried more over the dog.

Fabricated the two radius parts for my front leg mount that encloses the ends of the chopped up square tube. I marked the location on the frame and the cut angle on the bottom of the leg. A little prep work and the mount was fried in place. A little more grinding... In preparation for mounting the lower anvil holder post I got out my trusty laser level. Getting the frame level in the critical planes I leveled the laser and adjusted it to the center of the upper mount. Measuring then marking the place where the beam landed yielded a nice surprise. The lower portion is less than 1/16" twisted, which I am well pleased. These marks were transferred to the outer edges of the lower frame for reference. I'm going to get the lower mount cleaned up and bolted to the attachment plate and tacked in place. once it is tacked, I'll check it again with the laser.

Thanks for the suggestions. I went down the wrinkle black path and it looks great.

Give the motorcyle engine case paint a try ,you will like it .It is made for aluminum and magnesium and it is very tough. I use fine line tape that is the same with as the fins ,after painting just pull off the tape from the fins

The man I met last Saturday (Jeff) with the sports roof S code came over tonight to see my Mach and brought along the quarter window I need for my brothers car. After a hour of chatting, I found out his wife is battling cancer. Please keep Jeff and Jamie in your prayers so the chemo will work and defeat the colon and brain cancer.

I used ATI PN#: 917511AK. it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak

Not much of a photo person. These are what I can find that are decent quality; 2 of the "70, one of "69 Grande.

Drop a 5.0L in it. Give them Cheby boys something to grimace about :)

I've always cut four times then measure. No wonder I have issues!

Engine and transmission finally in. Once the clutch was centered properly, it all slid in place. Headers and lamda sensors also installed. The TCP bracing kit has been powdercoated gray to match other parts in the engine bay (to be installed later). It's nice to have a manual shifter in the car. A friend of mine, who's an aspirering photographer, thought the shifter was so cool that he took this picture of it.

IMO they look naked without something on the side. Very nice, what color is it?

Another pic to show that I don't rub around the wheel well. I didn't have to modify any sheetmetal. david

Awww, hmmm, no I don't think so. When I own one I'll make the extra effort.

I used an ARP engine bolt kit to assembly my motor. And yes, you usually do not get all the correct length timing cover bolts. After I figured out what bolts I needed that were missing in the kit, ARP gave them to me. Don't get the polished stainless steel bolts. The finish on them is so smooth they keep coming loose. I haven't had that issue with the black oxide finish bolts. And the black oxide seems to last without any discoloring or fading.

Going well mate. Move the column over, you will be much happier when it's done.

I've been driving the car around for a few days and it's better, guess I'm getting around 10-12 now. At least I'm not seeing the needle move when I put my foot down.

I've got the same setup. Stock rebuild on all the suspension, and I put KYB gas-adjust shocks in, which I have been very pleased with. Only change I made was a Shelby (Arning) drop on the front - do you have that mod? it lowers the front "maybe a little bit", and a 1in sway bar which shouldn't affect ride height. To me, my car doesn't "sit higher in the front", but let's face it, one mans "too high" is another mans, "just right". If you put in racing shocks, or upgraded springs, or any other mod, your front could be sitting higher. Also, if you have "old shocks" or worn out leafs in back, perhaps the rear is just too low. A lot of stuff can affect this. To me, my car is fine. But so many guys today though want the front end literally dragging the ground, and rims which vanish up into the wheel wells, that I've concluded I'm kind of a minority. To me, sitting on 15x7in rims with 235 R60's, and a stock suspension looks pretty damn good. I've included pics so you can judge for yourself.

I actually soldered the copper strip several years ago and glued the backing back together and it worked for years

Most people won't notice it, there to interested in the whole car, wishing they had one......or had kept theirs

If your done in 40 you have nailed it , great progress.

Funny I watched that video 2 dozen times at least to prepare for the job. What a huge hassle. All the doors were frozen shut, the gaskets had turned to dust, the fiberglass needed repair. Nightmare. Glad to hear you like the Classic Air kit.

I hadn't heard of old air Hurricane. I was looking at Classic Air's (Now Original air for some kits) Engine Compartment Upgrade kit. https://originalair.com/69-70-mustang-engine-compartment-upgrade-v-8-134a-w-adapter-brackets So if anyone has any feedback on that one I'd like to add it to the list if possible.

unless your timing curve is optimal for your particular set up, it will never run as well as it could and may have burbles or flat spots upon acceleration that are impossible to fix by simply jetting the carb. the carb is rarely ever the only problem, and since timing affects jetting to some degree, you must have the timing properly set to be able to jet it as best as it an be.

Did get a win on Saturday when I had the opportunity to take the Mustang out in the sun for the first time. Color looked awesome.

Might be worth it to start from scratch and understand what you've got: An Edelbrock 1406 is a 600cfm "Performer" series carb that is based on the carter AFB. Your 1406 _should_ have the following setup out-of-the-box: Primary Main Jet = .098" Metering Rod = .075" x .047" Secondary Main Jet = .095" Step-Up Spring = Yellow (4inHg) Float Level = 7/16" Float Drop = 1-1/4" Pump Link Hole = Middle Pump Shooter = 0.031" I would suggest you buy a carb gasket kit (they're cheap) and a #1480 calibration kit (we used to call them Strip Kits in the Carter days) and rebuild the carburetor to the exact factory specifications. If you've never done a carb rebuild, now is as good a time as any to learn. This will give you a good starting point and answer a lot of questions as to what's "in there" and what the P.O. may have screwed up (hopefully nothing). Otherwise, you will be shooting in the dark forever. I don't hate Eddy's with the passion that Barnett468 has (but I understand it!), and the Eddy can be one of the most "driveable' carbs anywhere, but it ain't a Holley and it will require some study to get them to behave. Start with the basics and let's see where we can get from there.

Intake manifold, headlight fender extensions, spare tire rim, & some other assorted parts, sooo no room there. I only have a 1 car garage that is sharing its space with other stuff & no basement is why most of the work takes place in the driveway. I did build over the garage door storage for larger parts.

seems like some good insurance to have another quart or two and some baffling in the pan when spending a little longer at higher RPM running down the track (where the oil gets pumped up to the top) or launching hard (where the oil will try to rush towards the back).

Glad it worked out for ya. Now we need some new pics of the doors closed properly!!!!

You da man SM69Mach. Worked a treat. Doors now close . As soon as jjstang mentioned two latch points i new you guys were on to it. Thanks Guys.

i love chevys and mopars too...don't be prejudice, lol.

I think sm69mach may be on to something. If I remember the latch has two latch points. If the seals are tight the second latch may not be catching. Moving it out a bit may allow it to catch. When you press on the door will it lay flat? That would further indicate it's not locking in to the second latch point.

Haha . Lucky I attached a photo .

What has been done to the engine besides headers and carburetor change? What rear end gear ratio does it have, and when doing 55 mph, what RPM does your tachometer say? What transmission does your car have? What diameter pipe is your exhaust?

Does the distributor have a vacuum advance and does the vacuum advance hold vacuum if it does have one?

Yes it will fit. I am on my second RetroSound radio. I had a model 1 and had a speaker short and burnt the amp section out of it. Purchased a Malibu to replace it, the fit was 10x better. I also added a RetroSound Quad 4 Amplifier. Made a custom bracket and put it behind the pass side dash panel. Fit is good, also have A/C and had room. Ed

Wow, it's been a few months. I still haven't achieved much of anything except getting all the pistons back out and adding the complete set of spiro locks to the gudgeons. Of course by the end of that I had it down to a pretty quick repetition. I have been getting lots of car stuff done, just nothing done for myself. Have also been doing the odd TIG job for people here and there which has been lots of fun and useful. You learn something new every time you pick up the torch. Last week I scored some more parts for my other distraction(dust collector). I got a bargain. It's not pretty and has some rust but it'll stay looking like that, I have no intention on changing. Plus it matches the colouring on my cab that I picked up some time ago. and this is the cab

Never put an old windshield back in a new restore ,you will see what looks like it has been sand blasted and you will not be happy with it

I spent a lot of time researching "how to" information on removal of the stainless trim and glass on my 69 stang. They don't make that trim like they used to and used OEM stuff is expensive, thus I wanted to salvage it all. While everything went well, for the most part, I wished now I had known what I know now before I started. Could have saved me a ton of time and a few dollars. Trim removal with the right tools is really quite beneficial. Here's what I used or at least started with: The paint stick has a wedge I cut into it to help slide under the stainless to raise it a bit for access to the retaining clips and to prevent damage to the trim. The flash light helped, on occasion, to better see the retaining clips though it really isn't needed as one can utilize the bottom two tools to feel out the location of the individual clips. The important tools are the bottom tools which I researched off the web. The very bottom tool was highly rated and there is even a YouTube video of a gentleman removing the front window trim on his 60's model Mustang. I started with this tool and chipped my windshield trying to use it. Frankly, by far, the better tool is the Lisle tool above it. It made quick and easy work of the removal of those retaining clips. Highly advise one go with the Lisle tool. The rear trim removal was not near as easy as the front, this because of the underlying gasket and sealant, with the latter being the biggest issue. Not only do the clips retain the trim but the sealant acts like a glue and thus has retention qualities as well. With that hardened gasket, I really struggled to get my tool under the trim and locate the individual clips. Knowing where they are helps: I started from the bottom and worked my way around to the top. To better access the clips with my tool, I sprayed WD-40 under the trim which facilitated the ease of getting the tool in between the gasket and the trim. It worked for that purpose but better than that and unbeknownst to me at the time, the WD-40 acted as a solvent to soften the sealant reducing it's adhesive qualities. I spent a good hour getting nowhere until I used that WD-40. Below is a picture of the softened sealant and my tool of choice for lifting the trim. You can see some of the residual sealant adhering to the trim. Removal of the glass was not bad. I removed the rear first. With the stainless trim off, one can see the gasket, which is really what wraps and holds the glass. That and the sealant. I simply took a Razor knife to the upper lip of the gasket and cut it out. From there, one merely needs to push the back glass out from the inside. That took fifteen minutes with the help of my son gently pushing from the inside. The windshield was not the big nightmare I was expecting. Because the WD-40 worked out so well on the rear glass, I sprayed the perimeter of the glass with it the night before. The same stuff that seals the rear window seals the front. The next day, I fabricated the following tool from some Acetal rod and some .080 timmer line. Before I secured the line to the inside pull handle, I pushed the end under the glass through the softened adhesive and to the inside of the car. With me working on the outside and my son working on the inside, we pulled together along the perimeter of the glass, more or less, cutting the adhesive. We went around the perimeter twice. After that, my son positioned himself on one side of the car and me on the other, pushing in unison from the inside at the top of the glass, slowly pushing it outward. The glass came out without issue or incident. The removal of that windshield didn't take but thirty minutes. I've taken so much from this forum and out of gratitude, I hope some might find this useful. Thanks!!!

I've put my lower dash and the dash small parts in a acid bath. It cleans off easily after a day and a pressure wash afterwards. Not done yet, because the bath is a little to small for the entire dash, so I have to flip it after a while. This process saves the structure in the dash very well. Also, I suspected the acid would either dissolve the clutch pedal rod bushings to install roller bearings instead. I read that they were a PITA to remove, but here they fell out after two days.

Retrosound without a single hesitation. I got the model 2 "Malibu" for my 69. Couldn't be happier: top notch technology with classic looks. G

Mine did that too when I removed the bar. But I've read that it is pretty common and some do it a lot more. A mates XP was repaired the same way and he's having all kinds of fun cleaning it out.

I have sport bilstein's and wish I had chosen street. I have 560 lb/in with 2/3 coil cut, a little stiff in front but the rear is fine with my 4.5 reverse eye leafs.

The rear shock is the same for Street or Sport full number is RCD-55-RO56. Fronts are Street RCD-55-RO57 and Sport is RCD-55-RO83-1. From some notes I made awhile back and should be verified. Brian