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I know. No updates. There was a reason. I was finishing dads car. 1969 Dodge Dart 340 Swinger. Got it aligned and wheels installed. Here she is after her first bath in decades.

Thanks to everyone for the help. Got the timing dialed in (running around 800rpm’s now) and the drive is much better! Might do a little more tinkering, but I think the ignition timing did the trick!

Find local mustang people around you. offer to get together and work on cars, offer to help them on their car. i have had several apprentices over the years, one was a younger guy from work that knew a little about cars. He would come over and help me with my cars and I would help hum as well as give him a place to work on his car. currently it’s my daughters x-boyfriend. He has learned a lot about cars from me as well as helping me a lot around the shop

Philatelic catalog just came out, going to be releasing some muscle car Fore ever stamps, 5 different cars, but one is a yellow 69 Boss 302. Scheduled to release 8/25/22. here’s the link if interested https://www.usps.com/stamp-collecting/assets/pdf/usa_philatelic_catalog.pdf

Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

Here I am, 5 years later googling a about my carb again and look, a post with my details with amazing suggestions! Funny how forums are still the goat for this stuff.

Went to wallmart this morning ,didnt want to park anywhere where it may get door dinged so i parked next to a black hell cat and a RT that was same color as mine but with black stripes ,we all three had the same wheels ,i think this was the designated Challenger only parking space ,forgot my phone so i couldnt get a pic!

65 66 is to narrow ,i have found the 1 1/8 front bar to be the best ,start going bigger and it can rip the roll bar mount from the body

Give it as much advance as possible without pinging. Increase the timing 2 degrees then drive it, if it is not pinging, give 2 more degrees. Keep increasing the timing as above until it pings; when it pings, take 2 degrees of timing. My engine is at 18 degrees timing and idles at 570 rpm when in gear (auto). Every engine is different, so you have to play with it to find the optimum timing.

My dad had a 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 back when he was a senior in high school and freshman in college. He sold it while in college to help pay for college. That was back in 1974. He loved that car, but knew he was better off getting his degree. His car had a 4 speed, bench front seat, signal indicators on the fenders, B5 Bright Blue Metallic with a white vinyl top - NO stripe. Back in 1997 (I was 20) he wanted to get another car. He searched and searched, and the only one he could find that hadn’t been chopped up to be a race car was in South Carolina. We flew down there and purchased the car. It ran and drove, but the speedometer didn’t work and the gas gauge was stuck on empty. He bought it, and we drove it all the way back to Indiana that night. We timed ourselves between mile markers to keep speed. We stopped every 150 miles for gas. Made it home. It is a real Swinger 340 with a bench seat, 4 speed, T5 Copper Metallic with a white vinyl top and a white stripe. No signal indicators on the fenders. It has since been painted an awful orange, and has signs of body filler on the driver front fender and door. That's the preamble. The rest is over on the FABO forums. Dad's 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340

I love it when people who axe questions online follow the advice given, and follow up the thread with a conclusion. Nice work KMD88.

This is from the wire diagram, page 2-E7. This diagram can be found in the "How tos" section. FYI, the "blind circuit" where it goes into the plug is just a short section of wire that is put in the terminal with the resistor wire to make a good crimp on the terminal. The resistor wire's gauge is too small to be crimped properly without it. That is a complicated wire assembly that goes to six places, as 297 connects to 904 (another resistor wire) at ignition switch A terminal. Notice where 297A goes to the fuse panel? This could shorten your search- this goes to fuse 1, which is flashers, radio and backup lights. If any of those work then you have power as far as the splice. Also, wire 30 powers the alternator warning light- does it light when the key is turned to ON- not started? This is from "How Alternators Work" also in the "How tos" section

A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work. The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges. This often happens when one replaces the circuit card. To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster. If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching. You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want. You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.

Hello there, you've come to the right place. As jmlay mentioned, there are several posts that would help. Go to "How to's" and look at "Fixing the Instrument Panel, "A Real Schematic", and "1969 Mustang Wire Diagram". You've mentioned doing a 9v battery test. Actually it only takes 3v (two D batteries in series) to get the needles to sweep, but it probably did no harm. It sounds like the fault is between the gauges and the senders. So it could be the flex circuit on the back of the instrument panel, the connector to the flex, or the wires. The wire diagram shows both tach and non-tach car wiring- just find the correct page. Same for "Fixing the Instrument Panel- the non-tach version is first and the tach version follows. Let us know if we can help further. A Schematic simplifies the circuit so you can see at a glance how it works. From your description you probably have an open circuit somewhere in the area of the red arrow (in a couple of places).

This is from the shop manual- idle RPM is on the bottom line

All the ones i have are silver cad plated ,the very tip about 1 inch is rubber coated ,the flat plate is body color ,sometimes you will see under the cowl where they laid them there while painting the car and it left the out line with primer showing where they were sitting

I'll give you $50 for it :p

Looks like a new carb.

Update: Working on the R quarter skin, attached with screws at the moment. Need to do some more trimming and fitting. No pics. Also working on the rh dash panel. Was trying to figure where I wanted to put my clock. I figured to add a small pod on the right side but it escalated to a symmetrical pod spanning the rh panel. Primered Clock to go on right side angled face, visible to driver. Might add a usb charge port on left angled face and a courtesy light on the bottom. Also adding 71 dash emblem on flat and offset to the right. Will probably rivet the pod to the panel when done. Cut the backside open. Wet sanded and primered again. Needs further sanding & primer.

FWIW; my 69 quarter extensions are fiberglass and are C9ZB-11-C and 10 C. The 69-taillight panel is definitely curved top to bottom. Fitment on exterior tops and sides is quite good. With the trunk lid open gaps are obvious on both sides and in different locations. I think the outward appearance was/is more important than the symmetry. Brian

It isn't that difficult, get an inexpensive timing light, a tach, and maybe a dwell meter like shown here and give it a whirl:

I'd stay away from the edelbrock Top End Kits & carb, they are outdated. go with Trickflow's top end kit or use 180 AFR heads with a new moderate cam, you can use the E303+ cam its modernized slightly https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/03/10/plus-is-the-new-e-summit-racing-e303-plus-vs-ford-e303-camshaft-comparison/ or call comp cams, and let them know your specs and your power you want to achieve. Also Intake can stay, Carb will need to be changed, maybe to a 650 cfm. (stay away from the edelbrock carbs), Headers will need to be 1 5/8 at minimum, I suggest long tubes. I have a 427w stroker w/ world products block from prestige motorsports and putting down 460hp/475tq to the wheels with 3:50 gears. I have a 750cfm, Stealth Intake, and 1 5/8 headman headers.

That engine had around 200hp, 295ft/lbs of torque from the factory with a Holley 4180. You might get 10-20 HP with just a cam change. The Stealth manifold fits well under the hood but again doesn't help more than 10%. The distributor does nothing for HP. If you want 400HP, that's doable but it will require a combination of carb/EFI, aluminum heads, intake, cam, headers, and exhaust. Something like an Edelbrock top end kit would simplify the choices, or you can blindly pick and choose and hope for the best. If you're like most of us and not an engine builder it will take a lot of research.

Yup, you need correct levels of fuel, oxygen and ignition timing to get the most out of the engine.

Hi, I gave a sheet metal shop diagrams of what I wanted and they folded to suit, I then welded them in with some tweaking, I’ve also fitted a support on the inner rockers, similar to a convertible

I would get a timing light with tach (like Innova 3568) instead of installing a separate tach (unless you want a tach inside the car). You need a timing light to adjust timing anyway; you can use the tach feature of the timing light for setting your idle etc.

Hi You cannot use a deep drop base without having issues with the the throttle linkage - I have tried ...it doesn't work without modifying the linkage. I also tried to use 2-3/4 height KN filter in order to gain some height but still not enough clearance with the hood. A 2 " air filter my clear the hood but I think it will be restrictive. I believe it is doable with a shaker hood but some modding of the system will be needed. Otherwise I am very happy with the system - I re-started my car after 14 months and it has just started as if it was fired one day ago, I think it is the best system in term of driveability and it is very easy to tune.

Figure out a way to install the vacuum gage, it is a valuable tool for tuning. Carb adjustment/tuning is only one part of the equation; advance/distributor tuning is the other part of the equation for a good running engine.

The motor, carb and intake info might help? Idle mixture screws are a great start. Easy to do and undo. We all like to work on acceleration. Professional tuning is usually best left alone. That said with the help of a tach (so you will have a base rpm) you could adjust the idle rpm's using the idle adjustment screw. Brian

Is this code for millennials with E.D. ?

Thanks for posting 'the fix'.

Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires.

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year. it is a great feeling to get her back on the road.

I bought one of those harbor freight car ports to keep it in ,last night i was in the house and i hear a car running ,i go out side and the car port is blown up like a balloon . Some how it started ,and i dont have any idea how long it ran ,i thought my brother started it but he said no ,i did have the remote in my pocked and i must have bumped it but i never heard it start and its fairly loud when it does . I checked on it all night just to make sure it didnt drive off on its own !

Thanks for the replies! The car is a 69. While I will check what you all have mentioned, I have another theory that I haven’t tested: When I installed the new starter solenoid, it was a black color versus the gray color of the old one. Since that’s when my trouble started, I looked again at the online descriptions of the starters. Apparently the gray one is heavy duty. Could this be the issue? By the way, we made it to Dearborn from Atlanta! The power issue cycles through about three times and then stays on, so we’ve survived the travel. I’m posting on Instagram if you want to see our pics: @stevestang1969

The 8.8 rear end is an entirely different design than the vintage Ford rear that came with first generation Mustangs. I believe the 8.8 was introduced sometime in the late 70's or early 80's. It is not at all compatible with the earlier 8" or 9" design.

Remind us, is yours a 69 or 70? Fusible links started on the 70s, but the only one I'm aware of is at the solenoid, and would cut the main power. Once it is gone, power wouldn't be restored without replacing the link. This sounds like a loose connection somewhere.

Terry, I think we may have talked about the one I used on another project before. I have no knowledge of using one on a Mustang but I can tell u that after we got this thing on the road the learning ability of it is awesome. The more u drive it the better it gets.

All working now

Mucho beuno ! I like these wheels ! I didnt know it was independent rear end . The car automatically resets the tire pressure sensors as well

If I remember correctly that screw has to be in there. It completes the ground circuit on the printed film. I guess they didn't have a good way to get from point A to point B with printed circuit so they used the cluster housing to connect the two circuits.

Finally off to the paint shop after 5 years of working on the car! Will take around 60 days, I have use the shop before, they’re not really fast but they do very high-quality work I will need a recommendation on hood stripes, I’m not sure if I even want to use them, but if I do, looking for best possible quality product that you all have used.

A big day off to the paint shop!

Finished gas pedal

Have been working on making a new accelerator pedal assembly. I didn't see an easy way to clean and modify the oem piece to work with the replacement generic cable so I went down that rabbit hole and set about creating a custom pedal. I still need to put a jog in the pedal arm and trim the cable end before welding things together. Also want to add a couple of gussets to the clevis.

We’ll after having it for 13 years and rebuild over the last eight,she’s finally registered and driving , it’s been a long road.

Bit of an update, side windows in, central locking in, head unit in, almost finished wiring.

We picked up Mike’s car from detailer who touched up nicks in paint and striped the car. Almost done!

Having second thoughts about fog light location. Too low? Maybe rectangular lights in lower opening?

Strut brace made up, a bit more color added