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Showed the old girl (display only) at a Mustang Club of America show in Houston last weekend at the Lone Star Flight Museum (museum for flying WW1&2 vintage aircraft). Obtained this unique pic of my mustang with a couple of P51 mustangs.

Thank you Jim for being an outstanding guy who helps the Mustang community.

Oh you silly people ,complaining about a .10 tax ...come on out to Cali. We will show what a gas tax really is haha! Wait a minute ...that aint funny :(

Today marks the end of major mechanical work on the car! I got the overflow tank installed, and ran the car. The goal was to see if the fan would kick on. Sure enough, when the gauge got to about 2/3, the fan kicked on for about 2 minutes. Woohoo! After that I did something that hasn’t been done for years... closed the hood!

In absolute agreement here in regards to "being the best". I used his plans in building my rotisserie and I thank him every time I load the rotisserie mounted car onto a trailer for transportation. It's secure and it ain't tipping over. Thank you, Jimmy!!!

Let the grinding "fun" begin...

But what if you have two left feet, like I do?

Wheels finally came in, now we have to paint some body color on some of the spokes. Would you believe they never sent the lug nuts or valve stems :(

Well if you can pick it up cheap enough and if it has parts that you need / want for your car or a future project then try to scoop it up. Its really IMHO not worth saving but that is your call. I recently ran across what I'm pretty sure is a 69 GT car about 10 miles from my house and on my first visit I noticed a LOT of really good stuff and got excited, but when I revisited the car during the day and chopped down a few bushes I saw that it was only worth the parts that I wanted / Needed .... Mainly a 100% Complete Fold down seat kit with untouched trap door and all the brackets, along with a Tilt Steering column..... The guy that owned the car died and his mother was now in possession of it and she was not at all happy when she pulled up and saw me inspecting it. I'm sure it held some sentimental value to her, but after my inspection I quickly saw that it was a Rotted shell that apparently had the clock catch fire at some point in its life and had burned the dash out b4 it was extinguished. Long story short... If its a good M2 front kit and good rear kit and has a nice 9" and host of other good useable parts, take 1k cash with you and tell him all ya have is 1000 bucks and it needs WAY more work than its worth LOL

Apparently July 2020 the front plate goes away. https://www.wdtn.com/news/local-news/ohio-drops-front-license-plate-requirement/1898881387

I believe it's a felony to use the C word here. Turn in your keys Phil.

Huh, mine turned 50 on March 19th, Happy belated birthday old girl!

Its my fault for not asking for the complete picture BEFORE giving advice. I often assume people know more than they do. When I was 10, I had a pretty good understanding of how electrical things worked and hot wired my Dad's car just to see if I could. I didn't want to drive it- and I never told him. A friend asked why I didn't just make another key- and I never understood that attitude. Electrical stuff was cool and I guess that's why I became an electrical engineer. I've had a Snickers bar and am back to my old self...that's my old grouchy self. I'll help when I can, but stay off my lawn ;)

It's getting there.

Getting closer.

I believe they are called frame bolts ,they sort of have a taperd end where they thread in . They are the same thread as a fender bolt and if you are not worried about being original you can use a fender bolt

I drove the car for the first time in... 9 years today. Just a jaunt down the road, but far enough that I ran out of gas. I don’t remember the ride being that rough. First I had to get the trunk to shut... ended up that the latch mechanism was gummed up. A little shot of brake cleaner got it moving again. My 14” air cleaner doesn’t fit - hits the distributor. Need to get an offset base or a smaller air cleaner. Anyone in the market for a never used 14” air cleaner with a 3” K&N filter and a flange height of 3”?

Believe me ,trial and error can teach you a lot ...and i have errored a few pieces ,like the time i was told to knock that trim on with a rubber hammer ,dont try this at home kids

ok, this is quite simple. ecklers says they must be balanced using the lugs, NOT the center of the wheel. https://www.ecklers.com/corvette/corvette-vintage-wheel-works-v45-17x9-2-piece-wheel-1968-1982-25-348169-1.html This "should" be easy to confirm by simply calling vintage wheel works and asking their tech department at (714) 278-1600 If they do need to be balanced by the lugs, you can have the wheels mounted by the lugs then have them checked for balance. If they are just a little bit out of balance, look at the edge of the rim (not the tire) while the wheel is spinning and see if it is true or not. If the wheel is true, have the tires removed and spin up the wheels only. This will tell you for certain exactly how much the wheels are out of balance and how much the tires are out of balance. If the wheels are out of balance by very much or untrue, simply call VWW and tell them and see what they say.

Just a thought but I have done this and it seems to help. Take the tire and break both beads loose and turn the tire 90 degrees on the rim and then balance again. Sometimes you may have to go 180 degrees or more. Good luck

Funny...the shortened title on the main forum listing is "Who has an aftermarket bra"...

Well, then you're screwed LOL.

Its a pity someone did not make a doco of the museum and the auction, would have been good to see.

Very simple, I just installed them on Craig's car. Just center it over the the drip rail and the boomerang and roll it in.

We did 17x8 in the front and 17x10 in the back. We really could have done 18 all the way around.

Use the RidgeRunner (TM) tool to both remove and install, IIRC.

Looking for the two pin or three pin version? I have both, but the 3 pin connector itself will be missing at least one tab.

If it's a Bendix brake booster after the master cylinder is removed there is a seal in the front of the booster than can easily be replaced. The brake fluid might have damaged it by now. The piston rod will sometimes just slip out as well so don't worry if it does. I've seen those seals on National Parts Depot's website.

As Midlife states, when you ground either socket pins you are essentially completing the circut directly at that bulb which circumvents the way the system would seek ground normally. It will always test good that way. Remember the brown parking wire is positive and seeks ground thru the white/blue and white/green passing thru other bulbs to get there. That ground connection can come from the ground wire for the hood signal lights if you have them or the dash ground, etc. The directional switch in the column plays games with the + and - when LH or RH the blinker is on. It's a mess, if you ask me.

Yes, but you should not measure continuity between that socket pin and chassis ground. You can only measure voltage on each pin to verify proper operation.

If the Master Cylinder piston leaked into the Booster then you may have a puddle of brake fluid in the booster? With the MC removed I would use paper or cloth towels and dab or wick the leaked brake fluid out of the bladder/diaphragm area. Nothing further needs to be done. If you are not confidant/experienced enough to remove and replace the booster then go no further. Clean the area, booster and firewall, with cleaner and towels and turn your attention to the MC. Brian

This is the studio we set up in our shipping department. We plan on doing more You Tube videos here.

More work on front brake ducts making molds. Started like this, 4 pieces of 2X4 glued together. Rough cut to shape. Then sanded to final shape and smoothed. Still needs finish then glass work. Then do otherside.

since I am pretty much done with my car, Im thinking of another project. Possibly a Datsun fairlady z (240z)

Crap, I know better than to post while intoxicated....I'm gonna miss you guys!

I know of one last year that sold for $6000, but it had nice options, and was almost all restored. I would think more like $1000. This car will take a lot of work to get to be a nice driver. The body and paint work alone would be probably $4000?

That doesn't work for side marker lights for 70's, as there is no ground for them: they use running lights/turn signals as the two leads. CV: plug back everything in and start removing bulbs one at a time: somewhere there's a bulb causing lines to cross. Once the bulb is out that fixes the problem, then that socket is where the problem is.

If I knew how much data the site uses I could probably figure out a rough estimate of what it would cost to host in AWS or Azure. I hate the idea of losing so much knowledge on a forum like this one. I don't know how much money the site brings in from ads but I would guess it would not be enough to pay for it's own virtual machine.

all pumps have to be rubber mounted or they will be noisy. summit racing has some pumps that are advertised as being quiet. but i don't have the info in this computer. it is in my other one that died.

Get it tested dont you want to know for sure that’s the issue before spending money

There was a lock-out rod for the 1970 4-Speed too … had to be in reverse (IIRC) to be able to remove the key. I'd guess the base 3-Speed likely had the lock-out rod too, but can't say for sure. Doug

Lots of member ideas, but no real help from site Admin. Disappointing.

I have used both of these with no problem. I run a stock RUG-AE2 4 speed and the stock OE 4 speed shifter. Brian

Back to making a few mods to the 69 ... been a while but... a Holley Sniper EFI setup has been installed. so i have a mighty Demon 750 annular carb for sale. I will be moving to the Holley dualsync distributor and Digital6+ at a later date. The dualsync /Digital6+ will replace my Mallory MaxFire distributor and coil setup. Currently the Holley Sniper EFI is running great, one of the best mods i have ever done.

Hey guy, About a year ago I converted my manual steering and factory suspension to Borgeson Power Steering with all Global West suspension. It's a rougher ride, but handles so much better. That's not the point. The point is the steering was so fast now that I couldn't feel the road at all. If I just tap the wheel it's going into the other lane. I've heard about this "Pressure Reduction Kit" you can do to slow down the steering, but everyone I asked said they don't know. Then I called some distributors and they said it's only for a R & P. I don't have a Rack. So, I said screw it I'm going to try it anyway. The kit is super straight forward. I only used 2 "shims" which reduced it from 1350psi to 1100psi and I LOVE IT! The steering is night and day so much better! I probably could've gone to 1000psi. My other car is an AMG, so I'm used to a tight sporty feel and this reduction kit got me closer to feeling like that! I just wanted to share in case anyone else doesn't like how fast their Borgeson steering is and wants to tighten it up! If you need any pointers don't hesitate. If I'm giving super outdated info...I apologize. I've been under a rock for 2yrs (raising my Little One!).

Only patch as much as you have to, as the other guys said they are not stamped that well but with a bit of work you can make them look good.

I have only replaced an inner rocker in my 73 vert. It was a lot of work and a lot of spot welds. They were not from Dynacorn and were three pieces welded together. On a 73 vert you have to use coupe/fastback floors which required modification to the lip on the outer edge. I am now replacing the floor pan in my 70 Mach and was planning to use SFCs, but now you have me thinking. Look forward to following this thread closely.