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Went to my local coffee and cars with the guys from our car club this morning. 600 cars of all makes , 3 Genuine Shelby's and a couple of 66 coupes all nice . Parked next to a S code Cougar convertible all original nice car, the Mach One is going better every time i drive it.

Here is some diagnostic info from MSD. I had to use it once. Backed my car out of the garage. Then it wouldn't restart to pull it back in. I had a no spark condition. In that case it was the magnetic pick-up inside the dist. https://www.msdperformance.com/support/troubleshooting_techniques/

I re-read 1969_Mach1's post a few times, and while he did refer to the Inverted Flank camshaft lobe, (that's what we used to call them), I seen absolutely NO instance where he inferred that Inverted Radius cams would be the "best one for all builds etc." He only stated that he had read interesting tech articles and they might be worth reading for someone who wanted further information... In order to have "Shamelessly Plagiarized" from whatever source, his written text would have to be Verbatim to the source you specified, which it most certainly is not.... Many, in fact, Most people are not familiar with the YellowBullet.com website as it is tailored to a pretty specific audience. The two predominant groups that are drawn to YellowBullet are either Drag Racers, as it has a lot of different sections for various classes and venues. The other group would be the "Pissers and Moaners", as it's first listed forum is "Trash or Be Trashed, where the Weak are Killed and Eaten"... There are also quite a few political dissidents who regularly air their grievances... There is a LOT of information available on YellowBullet, but nearly nothing I would consider Gospel... and yes as a Long Time Drag Racer, I have been a member on YellowBullet for many years! But as with MOST forums, the information presented is typically Opinions Only and should be regarded as such. As to the rest of your "Dissertation" on inverted radius roller cams, the vast majority of your rant is totally unnecessary to the typical classic car and muscle car hobbyist that frequent this forum. I do understand much of your information since we ran a few different Inverted Flank roller cams which were all custom grinds specified by our engine builder, Ex NHRA Pro Stock racer and engine builder Sam Gianino back in the early 1990's. They were not nearly as aggressive as they could have been at that time, since the primary objective of the inverted flank lobe at that time was to increase the acceleration and velocity of the valve event to allow more "Area Under the Curve" for increased air flow. Since we were not Billionaires we requested a slightly milder profile to save money due to valve spring attrition. Again, this was before the advent and more widespread use of the SpinTron device which ultimately demonstrated the damage created by such camshaft profiles at high lift and RPM. As you constantly speak down with a condescending tone to anyone with an alternative opinion to your own, please try to remember that MOST members simply cannot comprehend the engineering aspects of most active components within an Internal Combustion Engine, and instead of your diatribes being informative in a useful manner they typically come across as self serving babble with the sole purpose of stroking your own ego... As many wise men have said, think before speaking.

I can see everything with the exception of the pictures from February. I'm using Chrome. Wonder what's going on? Maybe I can resurrect my build thread on another forum. I was so disgusted with the Photobucket Block, I simply stopped updating it. The Falcon is looking good. Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing it in fresh paint.

Sorry Barnett, but I too have been doing this stuff for a very long time... In fact I was ASE certified Master back in 1974 back when it was still called NIASE, the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence. Other than being a tech, I am also a degreed engineer with 20+ years employed as both a Mechanical Design and Electronics Design Engineer. To add to that, I worked as a crew chief for various drag racing teams since 1983 working on everything from 9 second super gas cars to 5.9 second 237 MPH Pro Mod cars. Getting back to the issue at hand, I would NEVER run a rocker arm or pushrod combination that would create a valve tip pattern biased to the inboard or outboard side of the valve. Such an offset would undoubtedly place a unnecessary side load on the valve and valve guide leading to increased and accelerated wear. The best possible rocker tip to valve tip orientation will produce as straight of a perfect up and down valve travel as possible without undue side loads. If you really want to learn more about the dynamics of valve motion do some research and watch some stop motion video footage of engines and valve trains being tested on a SpinTron device... It was a very enlightening experience for me and really opened my eyes to the dynamics of our own racing programs... Just imagine valve lifts of 1.065" at 8600 rpm... If your set-up is off just a little, the damage can cost tens of thousands of dollars... No room for error... Now, If you can show me Proof that your opinion is Truly the desired result for All situations, I am more than willing to be enlightened by differing views!

I've never understood the fascination for large rims and low profile tires. It makes the ride harsh, it increases the unsprung weight, and looks unsightly when overdone. Have you ever seen race cars with low profile tires? There's a reason for that... I've not seen any major advantages to go this route other than availability of tires. Stick with 65 series tires and you're ride will be much improved.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks? Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake? They look a little different than the KYB shocks. Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs? There is very little info out there for these shocks. Thanks in advance for any info. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

I'd definitely try to follow the suggestions from gordonr. I will add, I've seen a lot of iginition modules or pick-ups fail intermittently from heat. For ignition modules, more often when they are mounted on or inside the distributor. Just saying, I wouldn't rule out those items. If you're concerned with heat to the ignition coil, move it to an inner fender panel and make up a longer coil wire. Kind of an old school way of installing ignition coils. I've seen ignition coils fail. But not nearly as many as ignition modules.

Happy birthday for the car mate.

" After a recent incident of a dancing tach, I decided to check all 3 original grounds and added a couple more. I added a new ground from the back of the intake manifold to the firewall as well as firewall to frame." A few things are going on here . Besides the ground providing a path for the ignition coil to saturate then release the high voltage it is the power "on" for the module itself to operate. As with the conversation around the pertronics and bypassing the resistance wire because of low voltage issue hurting the module, a poor ground can have the same effect. Testing electrics is testing for a difference of potential . For example using your voltmeter on "volts DC" add attaching one lead to the negative battery terminal and the other to where your module ground was bolted. Measuring a ground point to another ground point will measure a difference of "0" on your meter or "no difference" in a perfect circuit when cranking or running. In your case it wont be. I would be checking your 4 gauge engine ground as it also supplies the path for your alternators charging system. The acceptable spec with engine running with all your accessories on is .5 volts or less across your main ground. Your chassis ground can be measured the same way by moving your lead of the intake to a chassis point. Your goal is as close to 0 volts as possible as its responsible for all the accessories on your car.

I realized the OP has a Ready-To-Run distributor. I don't know how much tech info MSD has to diagnose those. They have resistance specs for magnetic pick-ups. So that can be checked. Coils rarely fail but are easily checked. Like others mentioned, make sure the rotor is rotating. Also when checking for spark test it a the coil wire to the distributor as well. It's very rare, but I have seen a rotor crack and the electrical current from the coil goes directly to ground through the cracked rotor.

I have 2 1/4 system that I made with an Xpipe and over the plate

We should have pricing next week. I'm always amazed at how much Stainless Works charges for setup fees :(

My cooling system is going to run at 2 psi. I'll be using Evans Waterless Coolant . Lots of pro's and cons, but I'm using it. Adding the flair to the fuel line is a safety feature. Finally got the climate control box fully rebuilt and in the car. New high-density evaporator, expansion valve and aluminum heater core. All metal parts sandblasted, painted, and a new seal kit installed. I had to do some repairs to the box due to cracking in various areas. I used the repro firewall seal on the inside of the firewall, and the original rubber on the outside to help make for a better insulated seal. I went a little overboard due to the use of the JBA headers. I used Lizzard Skin CI on the inside of the passenger cabin, from the under the cowl, down the inside of the firewall, across the floor pan to the rear seat. Then sprayed the roof. I then added Dynamat to the inside of the firewall, followed by the factory firewall pad. The factory style carpet has the attached jute padding, and I also put down the factory tar type insulation panels under that. I added 1" of pink insulation to the underside of the roof, and under the cowl. Overkill? I am expecting some extra engine noise I'd rather keep it out of the passenger cabin, and I want the A/C to work GREAT! I am in Florida after all. Proper "S" hose and heater control valve has been installed. The proper Ford striped heater hose and clamps as well.

yup. the shop who did it did a very good job. one thing I don't like though is how they connected the headers to the pipe, they hang quite a bit and these are on Dougs Try-Y's. You would think for them pulling the collector out away from the trans a smidge, running it close together and through the brace, then nice and tight over the exhaust, they would've don't a little better at the collectors.. oh well, it works and I aint changing it. forgot to add... my trans tunnel gets pretty hot in the summers with the pipes so tightly in there. Vick: I would recommend putting some type of heat shield in there if you do it. I was actually thinking of taking some of the heat shield off a totaled ford fusion. I was under my wifes car changing the oil and noticed they have a pretty good run of that padded aluminum heat shielding stuff that would probably work pretty well.

My 2 cents. If this is still the cam being considered, Lunati Part Number: 20350710 Previous Part Number: 61010, I'd think in a 351W it will have a fairly smooth idle. Good low end power. Maybe the lopey idle is not a concern anymore. Which is fine. A cam the creates a lopey idle is generally designed for upper RPM power. Some say the Ford Racing letter cams are old technology. They kind of are because they are straight pattern cams. They have assymetric lobes, but straight patterns. According to Ford Racing Tech they are selected because they are fairly easy on valve train parts and for cars that are street driven regularly. Some motors are fine with straight pattern cams. I'm not saying one is best for your application. Isky cams has tech articles on this topic and on "inverse radius" cams which I think (not 100% sure) is the category of the Comp Xtreme series and the Lunati Voodoo series are. If anything, these are interesting tech articles. Might be worth reading. If anything, just to gain some knowledge on the topic.

Got my serpentine drive sorted out. I had bypassed the power steering pump while the engine was on the test stand. Now I am trying to figure out how to route my heater hose line from the water pump to get around my alternator.... Any suggestions would be appreciated.... will probably post something on the technical forum. Also got the door braces from Mike (Latoracing) and put them in, as I will be dropping the engine in and don't want anything moving around...

We use mineral spirits all the time, but it won't remove urethane only butyl .

Asking price and any pictures ?

Jay, I have to agree with you on that. Your Coupe looks great.

That's what i call a nice drive.

I got a job (two, actually!), I got a life, I got a wife...enough said.

For the 1969 Mustang, if I understand the OP wants a softer ride. First thing would be replace the 18" wheels with 15" wheels and a 60 or 65 series tires. As far as feeling unstable "(squirrelly)" at highway speeds, it could be as simple as not enough positive caster in the front wheel alignment. Beyond that, if the suspension and steering components are in good condition, I'd look closely at the power steering control valve and/or the steering box.

I considered it a "better" fix, because as your previous post stated, these are made from dirty pot metal, and most people don't have access to a welding god. I do know it has worked for me incredibly well.

Depends on how the car is used and your budget. In many cases $40 per shock is okay.