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I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?

It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area

I know its not the same car ( in this project report forum ) but.. I own it also.. down to only 4 mustangs.. Sold my wife's 2012 A little E-85 test last Friday night at HRP video-1616810442.mp4

This is a favorite topic on another forum and has been going for almost a year now. Midlife is trying to wake-up the site, because it has been rather quiet lately. I'll start with what I posted earlier today. Your's can be anything- just keep it going! My garage is mostly done now so I can show the highlights, but as we all know, your shop can never be too big and you can never have too many tools. My house has a two car garage on the main level and what is known in my area as a “boat garage” in the basement. This is a hilly area and at least one side of all the basements are at ground level with windows and doors. I believe I may be unique in my HOA for having a second driveway and pad for the boat garage. I know this sounds strange, but all my neighbors have a 12’ door on the side of the house with lawn or dirt outside. My lower garage is an odd “L” shape and since it’s in the basement the overhead is not ideal and there is one particular post that isn’t where I would prefer. It could hold three cars. The Stang and Vette should just fit nose to tail straight-in (although I’ve never done it) and one more could angle off to the left. This garage is the reason I bought the house. The kitchen is the reason my wife bought the house, so it worked out well for both of us. My next project is a shed for the backyard to house more car parts with the dryer and compressor, because I ABSOLUTELY HATE the noise that thing makes. BTW, air is routed to six places in the shop, one of which is a reel hung from the ceiling. This shows typical Home Depot stand-up shelving and shelves I built that are suspended from the overhead. I attempted to cram-in all the storage I could. More about the lift later. This shows more suspended shelving. Each of the threaded rods will support over 500 lbs. On the back wall of the L-shaped work bench I built, is my old tool board that has followed me to all of my houses. My first wife, who passed from lung cancer many years ago, painted the shapes of all the tools in black on the white board so I could identify what I had misplaced and where to put it. What a treasure. The table with the vice in the foreground has kick-down rollers to move it wherever needed. On occasion I’ve backed it up to a post and clamped it on, when I really needed to go cave-man with the vice and a hammer. I did all the shelving, benches and desk using my old ShopSmith, shown on the left. It is an all in one: table saw, drill press, 12” sander, horizontal borer, wood lathe, jointer, jig saw, and vertical filer (hew). I think that’s all. I had to rebuild its power head with all new bearings, belts and a gear or two. It’s a 1984 model that I upgraded to newer tables that are bigger and makes it much more useful. The power head uses variable pulleys and belts for adjustable speeds. It was designed in the 50s before electronic motor controls. Directly above the machine in the wire shelving are many of the accessories. On the bottom shelf is a cross-cut sled I built. It allows you to trim the ends off 2x4s (up to 10’ long) very accurately. Behind it on the floor is a jig I built for making tapers while ripping. Next to it is a Harbor Freight blast cabinet with all of its deficiencies addressed using Tacoma Company upgrades. Now it can do a beautiful cleaning and then bead blasting at far less than 25 psi if you like for delicate pieces. A Dust Deputy isn’t needed for the vacuum because there is a waste gate on the back to set the negative pressure using the monometer on the top, giving a clear view and making practically all the media recoverable. I typically only pour in a Dixie cup full of media at a time, and then reuse it. On the right is a Harbor Freight parts washer with pump. I upgraded this with a heater and thermostat which greatly improves the cleaning. The pump and flexible spigot are a known problem on these. The spigot is attached directly to the motor with plastic fittings. I moved the spigot to a separate bracket and used brass fittings to give it durability. The other problem is the pumps don’t always start. After inspection I found that the pump is underpowered and to overcome the problem they designed the impeller to only engage after about 350* of rotation…if the impellor is backed up to the stop. To insure that it is, all you have to do is blow canned air (for cleaning a keyboard, etc.) down the spigot. That backs the impeller up to the stop and allows the motor to turn almost a complete revolution before the impeller is engaged. It works every time. It would be nice if Harbor Freight stuff just did what it was supposed to, but they doesn’t always happen. This shows the mini mill and lathe. The countertop is Formica so it’s easy to clean-up the oil and metal chips, with an aluminum trim on the edge so stuff doesn’t roll off. The wall behind and the bottom of the shelf above are covered with FRP Wall Board because these machines tend to throw oil and debris everywhere- on the wall and even the ceiling. Next to my desk and garage computer (again the table surfaces are Formica) is one of those combination metal breaks, shears, and rollers. To the left you can see part of the basement dehumidifier, and various floor jacks and stuff. The basement heater and AC unit and the house water heater are down here too. There is ducting, wire and pipes all over the ceiling. It reminds me of my shipboard military days. Miller 220 AC/DC TIG/MIG/Stick Welder. I had to rewire much of the basement adding several sub-panels to get power to the welder and rewire for many other circuits that were previously overloaded and always tripping breakers. My Stang patiently awaiting restoration. You can see from the dust that I need to move the ShopSmith outside before I do any cutting or sanding, but sometimes weather doesn’t permit. I need to get the leaf blower going and blow out the garage again. Wouldn’t it be nice if there as a static system or something that would take all the dust out of the air and deposit it in one place for disposal (besides my car)? The lift is a two post MaxJax, because it works well with the confining ceiling height, and can be moved out of the way for a rotisserie. Yeah- the columns unbolt and they have wheels on them so you can tuck them up against a wall out of the way. I had the area under the posts sawed-out then jack hammered, and put in a generous pad that is 12” thick with rebar tying into the surrounding concrete. That puppy ain’t going anywhere. You can see all the subpanels I added and the welder 240v plug in front of the Stang. I’ve got a 50’ 8ga cord set so I can do welding on the other side of the shop. That shelf and the one to the right of it holds all the volatiles that I wouldn’t want a spark around. There are four fire extinguishers in the garage and adjoining rooms, and fire sprinklers with Wood’s metal above the cars.

Morning y’all! Sorry I haven’t been posting of late. Been fairly busy since we’ve moved back home in 2015. Lots of work for those of us in the service. Bad guys ain’t afraid of viruses, you see... The car is going great. It now has 17.000 miles on the odometer, since it was restored back in 2014-15. Every time I get in it, I am privileged to feel like what I think they did, back in the day, when those were still available new on Ford sales lot. My wife and I are planning a road trip down the south of France in a couple weeks, for Easter. And that will be in the Mustang, of course. I am still in touch with my hot rodding friends from the Panhandle and visited them twice since we moved back. Always very happy to go back. A pic taken last fall in the Burgundy vineyard. G

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

I am partial to the Acapulco Blue myself, but I do like the Grey with black hood or strips and an option.

I upgraded my shop recently, went from 1,500sqft to 2,400sqft out in the country away from city taxes and such. You really don't know what all you have until you have to move it in one week. Went from nothing in the way... ... to having to get everything under roof. Our old property sold rather quickly and our new place was on the verge of being completed. A month and a half later, things are starting to get put in place, but there is still a bunch of stuff to go through before it is completely opperational. Got to get the lift put back together and finish wiring the rest of the building, construct the restroom and small office, go through some more boxes... this is taking forever.

Circa 1995 I was driving across town while working when I saw a boat for sale on the side of the road in front of a business. What caught my eye was it had a Mustang shaker air cleaner on it. What the heck? I flipped around and went inside the business to ask about it. The guys eyes lit up when I asked about the boat for sale, but he came down when I asked if he'd sell just the air cleaner. He agreed to sell the shaker, and I was leery when I asked him what he wanted for it. Twenty-five bucks. Holy crap, I couldn't pay him fast enough. $25 in1995 is $44 today, so... So now I need a shaker hood right? Call my buddy who owned a wrecking yard and asked him to try and find a 69 shaker hood for me. He calls back the next day and said they found one down in LA. Ok, how much will it cost me? Twenty-five bucks. True stories.

You guys in the US are so lucky to have space and relatively cheap real estate, unless of course you live in cities like San Fran, Seattle etc. Real estate and space over here in the U.K. is expensive and hard to come back. not long finished my new garage, 6metresx4metres which I think is small by US standards, but I managed to get in a 2 post hoist and lots of Dexion storage racking, id love a lathe to teach myself but alas unlikely as not enough space :-( chris

Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.

Heck it isn't even the crack of dawn yet and I'm up already, see below Edit; this thing will print in portrait mode, letter or B size. It's from the 1969 Ford Shop Manual and is 30+ pages long. Each page is originally 11x17, which is B size. The pdf software lets you print pages individually. Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf

I have a stock 302 now. I may go to a 331 in the next year with an AOD. These will work with that. Don't see the need for long tube and clearance issues. I know these have worked in many applications and I did not want a hassle. Wheels and tires are: Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear You can see it here:

Flowmaster exhaust on my Mach1 with stock headers. https://youtu.be/1x22fNFaaW0

Fitment was great. I had to pass the drivers side up from under the car because of the brake booster being in the way and you have to tighten spark plugs 7&8 with a wrench attached to the spark plug socket but other than that it was easy.

or mustang steve brackets with OEM style late model mustang hardware...

There was an old saying back in school ...he who smelt it ,dealt it

Had some fun before I put some new cooper cobra tires on...

Very nice Mach1 with fresh paint sold at Barrett Jackson 03/1021

all the panels and the body have now received their final application of primer (including undersides). so, the topcoat process starts with the gloss black urethane on the rollcage (easiest to mask). undercarriage is up next.

This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.

Tom Monroe has a really good book on rebuilding the Windsor.

As far as I remember, the hose from the power bleeder sticks out a little bit from the adapter/cap. So when you remove the pressure from the bleeder, some fluid moves from master to bleeder and the fluid level in the master drops below the cap level which eliminates spill when adapter is removed from master. But if you remove the adapter while bleeder is still pressurized, you will make a mess.

I’ve always liked Gulfstream Aqua.

I do like that gray with black, however probably Red would appeal to more buyers.

... and I feel like I got a deal for a $2 bottle of wine at Trader Joes. Two buck Chuck. Oh well, bad wine... had to toss it.

I have for a sale a full set of Ford wheel well/fender lip moldings. Ford wrapping is pretty much gone. Moldings have never been installed. Sold the car and no longer need them. They are for a 69 Fastback. Asking $150.00 plus shipping.

It's been awfully quiet on the forum lately. We need some chatter. It looks like I bought a house here in Tucson. 4 beds, 2 bath, 3 car garage. Situated at the edge of the complex, looking out at about 20 miles of desert before a mountain range, not a building in sight. About 3 miles from the Casino. My best friend, who used to live in Panama City, moved to Tucson a year ago, and he's about 1.5 miles up the road. We used to get together once a month and swap tall tales and drink all afternoon. Looks like that's going to happen more now. Other interesting news: 1970 Mustang harnesses suddenly has become hot. Usually, I see twice as many 69's and 70's, but this year, I've done 7 70's and 2 69's. I just past 750 underdash harnesses, having started in 2008. It snowed twice in Tucson this winter, the last time last Saturday! The scenery is gorgeous: snow capped mountains just a couple miles away. As I'm typing this, a major tornado outbreak is occurring in the south, close to where I used to live. Now, I don't worry about that at all. Did everyone have Corned Beef and Cabbage tonight? Yum!

I just bend over and pick them up haha . If they ban guns i will have somthing to throw at people when the try to break in .

Living up to the "E" with 27 MPG. Thanks for sharing.

After getting to drive more and breaking in the motor it is getting 27 mpg. Also, not the fastest but it gets me where I am going with confidence. I have not once had to adjust anything on this motor after around 1,200 miles or so. I do love that.

Terry, I've been to Jim's place a few times and I'm just in awe walking around looking at cool stuff.

Car went off he body/paint shop today, hopefully get her back in about 6 weeks with nice shiny paint work

This ridiculous thing should get a laugh. It is more cumbersome than Bob's sky hook, but it works to get heavy stuff up high like on the shelves. It took a while to find a square tube with a thick wall that would fit - I think this is 3/8".

Will have to compare notes for sure!

Stock suspension, PDB/Drums rear, Shelby/Arning 1" drop, stock 14x6 wheels w/4" BS, 215/70/14. Brian

Not exactly what your looking for... 235/60/15 on 15x7 TT D's w/3.75 BS. Same suspension/brakes as yours. Brian

Front: Style: Bullitt Finish: Anthracite Size: 17x8 Centercap Size: Large (2-1/2") Back Spacing: 5.72" (145mm) Offset: +30mm (1.18") Bolt Pattern: 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm) Fitment: 94-09 V6, GT, Bullitt, Mach 1, and Cobra.* Tires are 245/45/17 Rear: Style: Bullitt Finish: Anthracite Size: 17x10.5 Centercap Size: Large (2-1/2") Back Spacing: 6.8" (174mm) Offset: +28mm (1.10") Bolt Pattern: 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm) Fitment: 94-04 V6, GT, Bullitt, Mach 1, and 94-98 Cobra* Tires are 315/35/17 Sumotomos I am using the Vintage Venom Cobra brake kit, it uses a 1" hubcentric spacer in the front and a 7/16" in the rear. Clearanced the front corner of the inner wheel well with a big hammer. Also cut the outter tab off the bump stops. Stock width rear end as far as I know.

Just spent the last 2 hours reading this thread. What an uplifting story and re-news my interest in getting my car back on the road.

Guillaume, I just read your build thread, and felt so bad when you got hit! I love the color- she's a beauty.

I’ve been rather busy at work, so still being doing a bit, but between work. finally finished the welding, long list is done ! Now onto main body work. Just purchased the SoT coil overs. Long wait to get it over U.K. .....never done this mod before so intrigued as to how it will work out.

Grabber Green?, looks fantastic you have done a great job on that car.

In progress

New rack & pinion being installed. Old steering system was totally worn out.

Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend

And here is the finished drive shaft.

Bought a pair of these custom 2-1/2" Inlet Tips a few months ago from CJP and was just blown away with how they opened them up inside for maximum flow. Twin tips are externally the same, rolled edge is a little tighter though giving a bit more opening: Stock approx. 1.50" x 2.14" vs. 1.65" x 2.33" oval area each tip. My exhaust is stock late 80's repro (transverse muffler) but the larger 2-1/4" 428 version instead of the 2" that should be behind a 351W. In order to fit the stock tips on the tails that came in this exhaust system I had to shorten them a bit as well as reduce the end dia. to slip into the tiny 1-3/4" inlets on the stock tips … in hindsight, I'm guessing tails were for GT500. This always bugged me but assumed at the time that the tips were the same for all engines so this is how it would have been on a Big Block. Come to find out more recently that 428 Mach 1's & GT's with this 2-1/4" exhaust came with special tails with less restrictive tips welded on the tails instead of the separate tips used on 390 & 351's. These unique tails are now being reproduced by Scott Fuller … but for the concourse crowd … so not cheap. So, since I had already cut & re-welded my tails to fit the stock tips way back when, I just ordered (2) 2-1/4" ID x 2-1/2" OD x 6" long aluminized 16Ga. adapters. I'll cut forward of my current welds and slip these adapters on, adjust to desired length, then weld these new adapters on. Stock tails are 16Ga. aluminized steel too, so I was happy to find these adapters made out of the same gauge tube. Scott Drake makes similar tips for 2-1/4" tails that sell for quite a bit less than these 2-1/2" versions, but from the inlets back look to be similarly restrictive as the stock ones so not worth the cost & effort for minimal improvement. Both tails slipped out of the muffler without any issues, so I'm just waiting for the adapters & 2.5" clamps to arrive from Summit next week. Doug

Looking at our unofficial registry here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10qylpOcZgQLu9SAvhtRhmjGS8Cg0B_y0MpJSU-poATk/edit#gid=370348491 I see that Jeff Tepper has an early November, 1968, San Jose build - very close to your build date. Jeff is a regular poster over on concoursmustang.com. I suggest joining that forum and sending Jeff a PM about where his decals are located. I'm sure he'd be glad to help. It's almost assured yours were in the same place. As an aside, my car is a June 1969 Dearborn build and has the engine spec decal on the passenger side inner fender. Nearly all cars built in Dearborn have it on the drivers side. It turns out there was a 2 or 3 month period where someone (ones?) at the plant did this and it's been documented. The other 10 zillion cars they made there had the decal on the drivers side. I know, I'm a geek.

I got my old 69 back after about 25 years by accident ,as i didn't know it was my old car untill i got it home and started looking it over .Wish i had before pics . Glad you were able to get yours back .Looks good .