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With my shoulder feeling much better this morning,i had help flipping it up right and got some epoxy on it . Blocked off the scoops and built the edges to 3 /16 thick so i can make the mold with finished edges ,lots of block sanding now .

Hi all! Giving a shout out from Sweden. Been in the forum for some years but haven’t had a Mustang since 2014. Recently came across a barn find here in Sweden. And got it for a price I just couldn’t resist including shit load of parts. It’s a 69 Mach-1 R-code, my dream car. It was I fairly good shape when I bought it but I knew there was a lot of stuff to do to it. It ran, very nice interior and so on. Could see hidden bondo repairs, that turned out really bad. Most of the car is original, the engine for instance. Have started to tear it down, the engine is at the machining shop, the original crank turned it to be a bit crocked, so looking for a “new” one. Found 2 build sheets when I removed the front seats, one in good shape and the other one not so good shape, so my plan is to let it stay there, maybe but a clear coat over it :) and yeah, if you wanna follow my Mach 1 Instagram: the_69Mach1_resurection Will most likely use this forum a lot more from now on. cheers! //Mattias

Return Fire ~

I know exactly. Remember, Chevys are low budget , anyone can own one, you'll find them on front lawns across the country :-)

Brother's 70 Boss 302. Just play'in around. Those aren't pizza cutter tires on the rear either!

All 6 layers on ,it was 80 * here today so thing set up very fast . I have to build the box and in a couple of days i can remove the hood from the mold and trim out the mold ...then the polishing !

Last coat of primer sprayed and it is slick ,a good wet sanding and the top is done ,it will set a couple of days first .

First block sanding with 180 grit . Nice and flat except for what looks like two thumb prints at each rear corner . It will get primed one more time and then blocked wet starting with 400 then 600 then 1000 ,that should take out the two marks at the rear ,if it doesnt i will leave them because i will still have to block sand the mold and they will then be a high spot and easily sand out and them buff. ,still have one scoop to block but my fingers are raw and burn like fire

almost done with interior

Finishing up the engine panels and starting on our frame stiffner's.

And half the knowledge, and half the Ford parts, and half the land...

The problem is there isn't enough decent Demorats, their all about killing the unborn and open boarders .

Trimmed my sheet of fiberglass and placed it where it needs to be and made several reference marks so it will be in the same place everytime i have to remove it . Now i have to make the new plate and start chopping ,slicing and glassing back together

Thank you everyone for all your suggestions and advice. After looking at everyones’s suggestions from this forum as well as on the vintage mustang forum, I ended up buying the 164 teeth (28oz) flywheel rather than buy both the 157 and 164 and return the one not used. The install was this week along with a new clutch linkage and clutch pressure plate, fork, etc. The mechanics asked me how did I know which flywheel to get since it was perfect. Also, how did I manage to order all the needed parts to rebuild the clutch linkage. I told them that I had the help of some great experienced owners and mechanics. Thank you everyone - I greatly appreciate your help! This forum and all the great people who are so willing to give their time and help make owning and enjoying my mustang so much better.

Just make sure you don't violate any copyrights or trademarks :)

Jim, you're in California, that's the norm :)

Its amazing how everyone is an asshole outside from this site! What difference does it make to any of those clowns what you create from something else!! I wanna be the first one to buy one off of you. Screw them.

I wasnt worried about that ,i just couldnt figure out why the guy was being such a jack ass ,then i figured it out . Left that page ,but i would have liked to draw him out for what he is ,but then that is face book

Now i am infringing on copy rights haha ,i really have to get off face book haha ,the morons run free there

Under brace ,steel hinge mounting in place ,the under bracing is done . The latch mounting will go in after i trim it out

You're probably not going to see a whole lot of difference going from 3.25 to 3.5:1. I'd spend your money elsewhere.

Hi all I thought this might help someone else in a similar situation. Wanting to run a high quality electronic performance ignition whilst running a stock air cleaner like a factory shaker.Most performance distributors have extended shafts so the options from my research ended with something like Pertronix which get mixed reviews and the amazing work of some who modify the air cleaner lower box to provide clearance. ICE Ignitions who are highly regarded in Australia for performance distributors didn’t list specs so I sent off an inquiry. The response back from Michael was to contact him to discuss. What resulted was two options - he could spec a billet body distributor to fit my requirements or I could send him my Autolite and he would essentially build a custom unit inside the original housing using a new shaft etc and supply with a cylindrical coil, 7mm leads etc and with remote mounting of the control box it would look like a factory unit but be the same as their performance units. I haven’t ordered mine yet but given the local reputation within the performance world I do not expect any issues with any part of this. So hopefully that helps others engaged in a similar search for options.

Machine guns mounted in the scoops !

2 3. 4 5. 6 and i am dead ...funeral will be tuesday ,or we will pull the under brace from the hood ,what ever happens first !

Nice score Mattias! I'd venture to say most 69 Mustangs, including mine, had those same "quality" repairs when we acquired our Mustangs. Keep us posted brother.

This is a sad day in America, first Socialists, now this crap !

One other thing to consider is what kind of tachometer you will use. Some of the plug and play HEI distributors use a multiple spark discharge technology and do not have a usable output to drive a vintage, or some modern tachometers. Nor will they be compatible with some fuel injection systems. If you are using EFI, you will need a square wave RPM reference signal from the distributor. Same for using an old or aftermarket tachometer. In my case, I made the decision to go to EFI long after I got my distributor. So, I added a Pertronix Digital HP box, and that solved the problem.

Tackled to part that scared me more than anything I done so far... Fitting the rear quarter panel skins. Decided to use the Dyancorn panel as is, (I did trim the front top edge under the quarter window) and trim the original quarter to meet it. I bought a HFT air flange tool and flanged the original quarter edge. You can see the flanged edge in the previous picture. Fit the panel to the flanged edge and screwed the panel down all the way around.... to the door jamb, wheel well lip, drop down, rear tail panel. The panel laid nice and flush into the flange on top. I checked the fit against the end caps. So far so good... what relief. Now the next worry....to stitch weld it to the original quarter.

better figure out how much you want to charge. Im gonna want one! I hope you were listening to Disturbed or Metallica when it popped.

That is true ,but how many people have a shoulder that can crack and pop along with the music as i work ...ROCK AND ROLL ...OUCH ,THAT HURT !

Dude, you are an artist with these hoods! Hate to tell you, the popped shoulder thing that used to go away after 2 beers at age 25, never leaves after age 50.... Seriously, hope it gets better...

RPM is right. The carb idle adjustment using the "curb idle" screw can expose the "transfer slots" on the primary butterflies. The only proper way to adjust the idle is with a vacuum gauge. Hook a vacuum gauge to the manifold (full vacuum) port on the holley. Get the car up to operating temperature. If you have a traditional 600 CFM Holley 4150, there is an idle mixture screw on each side of the front bowl. If you have a later model performance Holley, like an Ultra Street Avenger , there are 2 additional screws on the sides of the rear bowls. Once the car is heated up, start with the drivers side (just preference) idle mixture screw, and turn it clockwise to see which way the vacuum needle moves. The idea is to SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw to obtain the maximum vacuum possible. It is an iterative process, and once you get to the vacuum "peak", back off slightly. Then go to idle mixture screw on the opposite side and repeat the process. When you have adjusted both sides to obtain the maximum vacuum, then go back over to the curb idle screw and you will likely find that you can adjust it down to the point where the primary throttle plates are almost "flat". Adjust to the curb idle specs for your car, and you are done. (for automatics, get an assistant, and set the curb idle with the brake on and the car in drive.) When RPM referred to "square", what he is referring to is the transfer slot will appear square at the bottom of the primary butterflies. You can only see this if you flip the carb over. Not having it square can lead to an off idle stumble, or running on after shut off. Hope this helps..... First pic is the idle mixture screw Second is the transfer slot

You could also put them in these kick panels. http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1918

Finally finished up the brake system. New booster, pedal bushings, master cylinder, stainless lines, prop valve, everything bled... then I installed my steering valve, cylinder, and all the goods up front. I need to torque everything, grease all the things, put the cotter pins in.. Hopefully that gets done this week. next i need to torque everything in the suspension once its back on the ground. then its out with the C4 and in with the T5.

this photo will give you a general idea of their location. if you point the window crank straight downward, the very center (left to right) of the speaker grill should line up with it. you need to also need to roll the window down then measure the distance from the window mechanism to the surface of the door then buy speakers that are slightly less deep than this so they don't hit the window mechanism. The bottom edge of the grill is around 1/2" up from the bottom of the door, but that is an estimate.

I’m sure he’s talking about doing this. What color is your car?

All that is left is to fit it on a car ,i have a 70 coupe with some 69 fenders and headlight buckets ,i just need to make sure it fits to the cowl and the fenders and headlight buckets. I am going to bond in the scoops to make the molds ,after i will crack them loose ,the fiberglass hood will have them made in

Edges are rolled and the front lip is spot welded . I made a slight V in the peak ,it was to flat looking . I still have to figure out how to finish off the rear ,it has a 3/4 inch rise like a cowl induction hood but much lower . I did manage to get two very slight dings in the top edge but i am really happy so far

Getting closer

If you believe the dash gauge is bad, you can swap your gas gauge with another gauge (oil pressure, water temperature) by swapping wires at the dash cluster connector. The guts of the gauges themselves are identical. Of course, the ammeter gauge is a completely different animal and uses non-fused battery powered lines.

Trump is the man :)

Subframe is almost done. Just took a few hours.

Pretty cool pic from last night. Mike working in blaster with car in foreground at night!

Because the timing advance curve needs to be set for each particular engine. A rebuilt box stock distributor from the parts store or even a used one could be considered "ready to run" just like the $400.00 ones claim to be because your engine will run if you simply install them and set the initial timing, but they will likely not run nearly as well as they could. I'll tell you what, I have a brand new polished billet aluminum distributor that is "ready to run" that I would probably sell for $160.00. I also have a polished aluminum water pump if you want one. We had the biggest Mustang shop on the West coast and I have a 53' trailer filled with new and used parts.

This is the plate you are missing. It is a simple piece of flat steel with 3 holes in it. You could copy the one on the driver's side and have it made. Use hex head shoulder screws and locking nuts instead of pins. Search for them on McMaster Carr web site.

I new there would be someone that didnt like it ,but Bull shit ? That is what i am told haha ,good ole face book !

Apparently $125 according to a wrecking yard in North West GA. Is that right? Are cigar lighters for 70's so valuable? What annoys me is they wouldn't give me a price on the phone, despite me saying if it's 5 bucks I'm there but if it's $50 I'm out. I drove from Athens out of my way.....

Sorry, it ain't a Mustang. This seems impossible after watching the video "A Faster Horse" where much time is spent making sure the Mustang name wasn't tarnished with the 2015 restyle of the Mustang. They also point out that everyone at Ford wants to work on the Mustang. Now this.

Thanks for the compliment. I had to do something to get as much headroom as possible for my son as he is currently 6'6".