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Vicfreg last won the day on November 22

Vicfreg had the most liked content!

About Vicfreg

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  1. Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Ok, cool. My VHX dash package came with a 3 wire speed sensor and the required wiring. My original thought on the yellow/purple twisted wires were to run them with the Neutral safety switch and back up lamp wires, as those are supposed to go through the firewall, and then down the transmission tunnel to mate up with the shifter (automatic in my case) wiring plug. Since the speedo cable connector is down that way, thought I would route them together, kinda follow the brake line route. Let me know when you get to that, I am still toying with other options....
  2. Shelby Racing Modifications

    I have the book that RPM has, as well as an old Ford High Performance suspension/parts catalog. On my 1970 for the front suspension, I did the 1" drop, shock tower wrap, and "dogbone" reinforcement plates on the outside. Mike (Lato Racing) who is our resident fabrication genius here did the metal work and made the shock tower wrap plates and drilled the lowering holes. got the dogbone plates from West Coast Cougar.... At least one of my shock towers was cracked, and this was on a stock convertible with a 302 2 barrel and automatic.
  3. Help piecing together Sniper EFI

    Shep69, I am getting ready to do an FiTech on my 393 stroker. I have a couple quick questions that may also apply to the Sniper install that Flanders is doing Does not sound like you used the FiTech command module with the remote pump. I have heard one of these run and it is quiet, so I am headed that way. One issue there is where to run the vent line, not sure you had to deal with that? If you used an ignition box where did you get the square wave tach reference signal from to send to FiTech system? If you have a MSD or Pertronix III or other MSD distributor, you can use the coil negative as the FiTech tach reference. Did you share water temperature sensors with the FiTech system and other stuff, like your dash? I am using a VHX dash system, which has a 2 wire temperature sensor. So, I need another temperature sensor for the FiTech system, and am looking for suggestions there Did you buy the 400 hp or 600 hp FiTech system. My engine is going to be around 425 - 450 HP, not sure the 400 HP FiTech system will be adequate I will be using C-6, saw the other comment about the kick down lever, I was assuming I could use a Lokar or equivalent cable.. Thanks in advance for any hits/advice....
  4. Ok, there is some cosmic connection between Flamingo's and louvered hoods. Check out the car the girl is driving and look at the hood...... Holy Jaguar Batman! Louvers?!?!? Flamingo??
  5. 351W Distributors

    You can get the stock Duraspark distributor and ignition box from AutoZone or Advanced Auto parts for the carbureted 351's
  6. We had a brief chat on one of the project forums about a trunk picture, and one of the members mentioned the "trunk monkey" So, for those of you who have not ever checked this out, probably the funniest set of car commercials ever. Rated "G". Enjoy
  7. We had a brief chat on one of the project forums about a trunk picture, and one of the members mentioned the "trunk monkey" So, for those of you who have not ever checked this out, probably the funniest set of car commercials ever. Rated "G". Enjoy
  8. Dude, what great pictures of the kids in the trunk. That is really priceless. Also, the first time start video is awesome!. I am surprised you all did not break out some of that great local Jester King beer to celebrate! I am actually going to be restoring a 1966 Mustang for my daughter (joint project) who is now in her 30's, because of a picture I took of her on the hood of the 1966 GT I owned when she was a child. I am sure your children will always remember these times with Dad in the garage with the Mustang. I will find the picture and post it. I noted Ridge's comment about the trunk monkeys. That is a very clever reference to what is probably the greatest set of car commercials ever. I will post a link on the "garage" forum of this site, as I don't want to post that on TexasEd's site.
  9. 1970 Fastback

    Ok, I will have to ask....why do you want to be able to remove the fuse block? I really like the connectors...great find!
  10. Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Hey Mike, making great progress! Some ideas from my experience: - You may not need some of the wires you have pulled through the firewall. For instance, the twisted pair purple and yellow wires are for an aftermarket VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). If you are retaining your stock speedometer, you don't need these. Same if you are using a single wire alternator. One of the brown wires is for the old style voltage regulator.
  11. 70 convert coil spring question

    John, I would also appreciate any pics of your convertible during your restoration, or if you have a project site on the forum, let me know and I will follow it. Mine is on this site... "1970 Convertible"... There are so few convertibles out there, look forward to sharing ideas, progress, lessons learned, etc.. Regards, Vic
  12. 70 convert coil spring question

    Hi John. I've had this book for probably 20 years, and I went back through it one day and realized how much information it had that was useful. Lots of information. Highly recommend it for the data, facts, and figures.
  13. AAW Harness Under Dash Pictures

    Mike, good advice. Any large plugs connectors need to go in first followed by the wiring. You are making great progress. I am posting my wiring progress on my project site.
  14. 70 convert coil spring question

    Oh, I forgot to include the heavy duty suspension charts. Interesting that 1969 1970 are so different
  15. 70 convert coil spring question

    Hi John, based on the information I have, You’re Moog choice looks good from the load rating perspective. You should check to see what the free length of the spring is however. The application chart I’ve included shows your correct spring is a 4F, with a load rating of 1580 pounds, and a free length of 16 1/8 inches And example of where the load rating could be the same, but the spring is different, it’s with the 4S spring. This spring was used for the heavy duty suspension, has the same load rating, but the free length is different at 15 inches. It also has fewer coils which makes sense. What this results in is a car that’s approximately 1 inch lower than stock. This is what I have done on my car because that’s the look I want, and that’s what came on the high-performance cars. It may not be what you want so just make sure you have the right free length of spring in conjunction with your load rating requirement. Also matched this up with your rear springs so the car sits level. Hope this helps