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Vicfreg

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Vicfreg last won the day on October 24

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About Vicfreg

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    v8 powered poster

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    Charlotte, NC Area

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  1. What a great picture, you’re a great guy to provide such support. -30°C probably isn’t too bad for you Packer fans.... ! I think you need to get a Cheesehead version of that LOL Well are all praying for you both
  2. I drilled and tapped a hole in the horizontal surface of the frame above where the idler arm is. I used a 3/8 inch Tap and 3/8 inch chassis bolt. I sourced a surplus Military ground cable from EBay The other end of this cable is attached directly to where the starter bolts to the block I will try to find a picture
  3. I have a 68 coupe which has a very similar ignition switch, and what I found with a similar problem was the ignition switch had been replaced at some point and had a bad splice in the back ....it was intermittent and was causing the problem
  4. Vicfreg

    58 Tbird

    Nice car. Add a little cream color accent to that blue and it would look cool. Some even had the roof painted in a lighter color. The '58 is the first year "Squarebird" and does not share some parts with the later years (59-60) I hope you have all the exterior trim parts, but those are interchangeable. The '59 grill is cool, with horizontal bars. the '58's have a unique rear suspension with coil springs. Apparently, they are not the best, and the later years went to leaf springs. Looks like a fun cruiser, but will be very expensive to restore. I would take the "Roadkill" approach, and get it running and see if you can drive it. Assume it has a 352? that would be a "H" code. That was the only engine option in '58. The '60s had the Lincoln 430 V8 available. In '58, there was a super rare "G" code that was designed for exported cars. It is a 332 V8 Yours looks like it has an original Carter 4 barrel carburetor. Nice vintage piece. My cousin in in the T-Bird club. This is a great website for the Squarebirds: https://squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/trl.htm
  5. I rebuilt mine and had did the disassembly myself, then had a local engine shop do the machine work and balance the rotating assembly. While I was at it, I had them install 393 stroker hardware. I put the rest of the engine together myself. I used bolt on Edlelbrock top end (Performer RPM) parts. All you really need is an engine stand (they are cheap, find them used everywhere) and a engine lift (you can rent those). Not many specialty tools except a couple torque wrenches. I used a high volume/high pressure oil pump and upgraded shaft, and edelbrock double roller timing chain kit. This is a good time to look at your harmonic balancer, mine was dried out and needed replacement. It's a fun winter project and there's nothing like starting up an engine you just built! I had a little extra fun and found a cheap engine test stand and modified it so I could break my engine in, since my car was undergoing some sheet metal surgery at the time. That allowed me to try a couple different ignition system options and time/tune the engine, check for leaks, etc. Also a ton of fun. (the neighbors were not impressed...) Before and after pictures. I wound up adding a CVF pulley system and had to go with a reverse-rotation water pump in the end. IMG_3042.MOV
  6. Oh, duh. Don't forget to allow for suspension travel when measuring the wheel well width. Instead of the 13", go up another couple inches. Depends your spring rate and shocks.....
  7. That 295/50-15 is 11.5" wide. I have 275/40-18 tires on the back of mine, on 9.5" wheels, and the tires are 10.8" wide. They have a 5.5" backspace and a 1mm (essentially neutral) offset. I use stock rear springs. I lowered the rear of the car about one inch from the picture I have attached. I also have rolled the inner lip of the rear fender wells, and have ground off my axle bump stops in the rear wheel well. I feel like I don't have much room on the outer fender side, maybe 1-1/2". I think I have more room, maybe 2" on the leaf spring side. Tried to find some pics that would show that. Based on my install, I think you can probably fit a 11.5" wide tire, but need to pick the backspacing and offset carefully If you use a 11.5" wide tire, you probably need a 10" wide wheel. I would say if you use only a 5" backspace on that, you might hit the outer fender lip. You should measure your wheel well width at a height of 13" (or half your tire diameter) from the center of the axle. Jack the car up by the axle on the side you want to take the tire off. Take the tire off, and lower with a floor jack it until the car is level, left to right (assuming your floor is level). Measure the width of the wheel well from the inside of the outer fender lip to the narrowest point inside the rear fender at a height of 13" (or half your tire diameter) from the center of the axle. That represents the top of your tire at the narrowest point. It could be the bump stop, it could be the inner fender well. I tried to keep the tire height near stock, so my tires are 25.7" high. Hope that helps.
  8. I have power distribution blocks in my trunk, under the dash, and on the radiator support. My battery and solenoid are in the trunk. I have midi fuses at strategic locations. (The large black terminal block is actually power, but I wanted black under my hood, not red) Also ground terminal blocks as well. Makes it easy to add stuff, and also separate loads if needed.
  9. I have a 351 W with shorty headers. I got a mini starter from Jegs that works great. I also have a massive ground cable that runs from my chassis near the idler arm to the engine block, attached to the starter bolt. I have a trunk mounted battery and have no issues. Both the min-starter and the hot and ground cables are protected by DEI heat wrap.
  10. You also might want to check the secondary throttle plates to see how much of a gap there is. A lot of times carbs can be set up to idle correctly without properly adjusting the idle. This can sometimes result in compensating for poor idle by cracking the secondary throttle plates. This can cause problems in the transition when the rear throttle plates open. There is lot of literature/help on the Holley website. I always baseline my carb by setting the idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge, then using the curb idle adjustment to get my final idle value, instead of fooling with transfer slot/gap adjustments on the rear throttle plates.
  11. Find a top quality over the counter brand that is pre-mixed with distilled water. The distilled water is important to use with aluminum radiators. Pick one of the yellow/green brands like Prestone instead of the red type. I would drain the cooling system, and use all new 50/50 mix, top it off as normal.
  12. Best of luck with this, praying for you and the wife.
  13. Thanks. I will do a little trial and error with these and see how they align.
  14. Mike, looks like a nice spread to retire on, I am sure you will enjoy it. You are only about 2 hours from my house in NC.
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