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Vicfreg last won the day on November 17

Vicfreg had the most liked content!


About Vicfreg

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    v8 powered poster

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    Charlotte, NC Area

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  1. I also have a '69 gas gauge if needed, let me know.
  2. Mike...Nice Job!! Thinking fuel line is next, so we can get the car started with the fuel injection..... Ridge - interesting suggestion. I am planning for the rear panel to be black, along with the bumper. The car will likely be silver. I guess you could mill a very thin piece of aluminum and powdercoat it. Maybe a ball mill with horizontal lines... ? I like that look. Here is the back of my '68 My taillight bezels for the '70 are already powder coated black similar to a Boss 302. I am now thinking about it. Mike....any thoughts/ideas....?
  3. Nicely done. Like the drawings. The fusible link was used on later cars due to the upgrade to the alternators that had build in voltage regulators. (aka diode trio). The link is there to protect the connection from the battery to the alternator stator diodes, in case of a diode short to ground. It is not there to protect the rest of the electrical distribution system. The second alternator fuse (smaller fuse) is there to protect the field (rotor) Passive (non-mechanistic) failures of wiring are really not postulated as an initiating event that required fused protection. Fuses are used where shorts from active (switched, resistive, or rotating) components are plausible, and the fuses are designed to protect the wiring.
  4. Any way to get the pictures from your 70 Convert. build?  Most of the links seem to be broken in the thread


  5. Dude, you are an artist with these hoods! Hate to tell you, the popped shoulder thing that used to go away after 2 beers at age 25, never leaves after age 50.... Seriously, hope it gets better...
  6. Nice job on the detailing, in particular the axle assembly. Well done.!
  7. Wow! Really looking great....
  8. Nice job! In previous post about torque boxes you mentioned you own a pre-production model? Can you explain?
  9. Hi Jack. I guess we have presented you with a dilemma, which are 2 opinions. This happens. 1969 Mach is correct in that it would be beneficial to install the slinger. That was the original design by Ford. He has offered 2 options that make good sense. But as you have described, I have had issues with some timing chain sets where the slinger would absolutely not fit without rubbing. If the one you have causes rubbing, then maybe you can go with the Ford Racing set as suggested. In my case, I kept my timing chain and did not use the slinger, and 11 years later on that engine in the picture, have no leaks or issues. Another option is to call the Ford Racing techline and discus your situation with them. Good luck. Vic
  10. I also ditched the Derale units, they are crap. I used one from this company. It is a PWM controller. Used on military and commercial vehicles. Comes with an available in-line radiator hose sensor. Works great. His company has an odd name, but the construction is top notch. On my engine test stand, I was able to control the temperature of my engine within +/- 2 degrees. I am running 2- 12" NASCAR (Maradyne) cooling fans.
  11. Oh to be clear, on some carbs the clockwise adjustment will decrease vacuum, on others it will increase. So, the initial adjustment is just to determine the convention for your carb.
  12. RPM is right. The carb idle adjustment using the "curb idle" screw can expose the "transfer slots" on the primary butterflies. The only proper way to adjust the idle is with a vacuum gauge. Hook a vacuum gauge to the manifold (full vacuum) port on the holley. Get the car up to operating temperature. If you have a traditional 600 CFM Holley 4150, there is an idle mixture screw on each side of the front bowl. If you have a later model performance Holley, like an Ultra Street Avenger , there are 2 additional screws on the sides of the rear bowls. Once the car is heated up, start with the drivers side (just preference) idle mixture screw, and turn it clockwise to see which way the vacuum needle moves. The idea is to SLOWLY turn the idle mixture screw to obtain the maximum vacuum possible. It is an iterative process, and once you get to the vacuum "peak", back off slightly. Then go to idle mixture screw on the opposite side and repeat the process. When you have adjusted both sides to obtain the maximum vacuum, then go back over to the curb idle screw and you will likely find that you can adjust it down to the point where the primary throttle plates are almost "flat". Adjust to the curb idle specs for your car, and you are done. (for automatics, get an assistant, and set the curb idle with the brake on and the car in drive.) When RPM referred to "square", what he is referring to is the transfer slot will appear square at the bottom of the primary butterflies. You can only see this if you flip the carb over. Not having it square can lead to an off idle stumble, or running on after shut off. Hope this helps..... First pic is the idle mixture screw Second is the transfer slot
  13. That is called an Oil Slinger. I personally don't use them, have built several engines without them with no problems. If you are going to use a high quality double roller timing chain, then the oil slinger, which goes between the crank pulley and the timing chain cover oil seal, will rub on the cover. I decided a good timing chain was more important than the oil slinger, which Ford later abandoned. Picture is of my 5.0 that is in my '68 coupe. I build a Windsor Based 393 stroker, looks identical. No slinger.
  14. For my 1970 Convertible, mine are in the front air vents, and the rear seat panel Ashtray's..... Using a DIN 1 flatscreen head unit with a Rockford Fosgate power amp, and subwoofer.
  15. The 2 Ford Casting Numbers I can find are: C60A 9424A C6ZZ 6B068 A
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