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Vicfreg last won the day on March 7

Vicfreg had the most liked content!

About Vicfreg

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    v8 powered poster

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  1. Parts for Sale - Multiple Listings

    Added some pics of the parking lights, they are in good shape nothing loose that I can tell Added another pic of the brake boosters Added new part, which is a small block T-5 bellhousing. It has been media blasted and is really nice.
  2. 70 Vert, new project

    Right. There were about 14,000 1969/1970 Shelby's produced There were around 7,500 1970 Mustang Convertibles produced, about the same amount as the 1970 Boss (302 and 429) Mustangs. So, yes they are getting hard to find. The good thing is that they share some rare parts with the '69 Mustangs and the Cougar convertibles.....
  3. 1970 Convertible Restoration

    Hey Byron. Thanks for the insights. On my '68, it went right in with no issues. On my '70, it has been a trial and error fit up. I did buy the Borgeson Rag Joint, as the other one I had was a POS. Theirs has a set screw with a locking nut. After I get the fit-up right, I may try out the Mustang Steve lower bearing set up, which is supposed to be able to be inserted into the lower column to hold the shaft in place. We will see. I have way too many hours involved in this already. Thank goodness I used one of my spare steering columns and not my tilt column. I guess I am going to say with my fixed column. I can't bring myself to cut a perfectly good 1970 tilt column, they are just too hard to find.
  4. 70 Vert, new project

    Hey Casey, welcome. I am working on a '70 Vert project from the ground up. My project thread is "1970 Convertible Restoration". Vic
  5. Parts for Sale - Multiple Listings

    I will go over to my storage place tomorrow and take some more pics
  6. Parts for Sale - Multiple Listings

    Oh, pedal support bracket in the picture with the boosters....
  7. Parts for Sale - Multiple Listings

    Couple of other items from the "as-is" parts bin - Complete power steering rack from 1969 Mach 1. - Small block motor mounts - frame side - Parking lights - Better picture of the brake boosters
  8. 1970 Convertible Restoration

    Got my backup steering column in for a trial fit to my Borgeson steering box. It is really close, so I am fussing with final adjustments. I may need to cut the stupid column locking actuator arm off the inner column tube, as it is really close to the rag joint bolts. But, got a chance to try my Billet steering wheel, and I am pretty happy with the look.
  9. Tilt Wheel Rebuild

    Putting this on hold for a little while. I have a bent actuator arm in my tilt mechanism, and may need to use a lifeline to West Coast Cougar's rebuild guru to fix it....
  10. Tilt Wheel Rebuild

    I thought I would post this, as I can't really find any good reference material on the "how to". I have a 1970 tilt wheel which had a few minor issues, so I decided to take it apart and refurb it. I have done several non-tilt columns, and they at least always need a top bearing replacement. So, I am going to start documenting by adding some pics of the dis-assembly, and then re-assembly. . 1st pic - unique allen bolts and retainers that are under the lower section that hold it on. 2nd pic - directional switch assembly removed. 3rd pic is the cleaned upper housing. 4th pic is a reminder where the snap ring goes. It sits on top of the upper shaft bearing and hold the upper column section on. 5th pic - standard (long) and tilt (short) inner column tubes side by side. 6th to 8th pic - directional switch and wiring harness. Note the "D2" date code. This must be a service/replacement switch. 9th and 10th pic - the directional switch. These are totally different than the standard column switch. In the 10th pic which shows the underside of the switch, you can see the green thing sticking out with a little knob on the end. This is what the turn signal lever screws into, and it is used as the fulcrum point for the tilt mechanism. In picture no 9, there is a little black wire with a plastic thing on the end and a piece of copper. This is another great idea, which is a switch to monitor if your key is still in the ignition....the famous key "buzzer". 11th pic is the locking actuator pin. This is used in both tilt and non-tilt columns. It is hooked to the actuator rod gear "rack" which is meshed with the ignition switch gear. When the ignition switch is in lock, the pin pops up and will lock the steering wheel. This whole key switch/gear/actuator rod set up is a major pain in the neck to set up. But, you can't really delete it, because the actuator rod goes to the column mounted ignition switch.. 12th pic is the dust/air seal that sits on the inner column tube. There are 2 seals, one on the outside of the column tube, pictured here, and one on the inside, which goes over the inner shaft. These prevent air from running up the steering column tube when you are driving down the road. Last 2 pics are of the directional switch harness connector. I did a continuity check to make sure all the connections were good. You can see some discoloring of the wiring due to age and heat. More to come, as I start assembling this....
  11. Mustang Music

    The Keith Urban one is great, never saw that before....
  12. Full repaint steps - Need advice

    I am having my 1970 painted dis-assembled. I plan to use PPG base coat/clear coat. I am also using the light grey primer, also PPG. I've done it both ways, but with it dis-assembled, you don't have the gap issues. But, all the parts need to be painted at exactly the same time. I am very happy with the PPG on my '68. I am headed that way for my '70 Convertible... Blue is 1967 Corvette Marina Blue Metallic. Paint in this picture is 5 years old. Also pic of my '70 in the PPG gray primer. I chose to do the black epoxy final coat on the front clip and under the car when the car was primed. Then I am assembling the car powertrain and wiring and sending it to final paint. Lots of ways to do it, best advice is to find a painter and go look at his work, and talk to the people who have used him.
  13. Turn signals not working

    I am thinking you possibly have a high resistance connection, or a bad ground somewhere. That would explain the 3.5 volts. As Midlife suggested.....if you pull the headlight switch out one position, do the parking lights work? I would pull the parking light connector apart, and run a temporary jumper from the battery to the parking light. The parking light plug has 3 connection points...the two hot connections are the one for the blinker, and one for the parking light, using a dual filament bulb. Then there is a ground wire to the plug as well.. You should be able to get the light to come on with either of the two hot connections. I think the brown is the parking light, the blue is the blinker, and the black is ground. Another thing I wanted to point out, that may not have any bearing on the outcome is the emergency flashers do not go through the ignition switch, neither do the headlights, parking lights, or brake lights. The directional lights do go through the ignition switch. You may have jarred something loose in your accident.
  14. Good clutch to use?.

    I used the Ford Motorsport 10.5 inch "King Cobra" Clutch and pressure plate on my '68. My engine is very close to the Specs of Mike's. I have a cable operated clutch. I've been driving the car for 8 years with no issues. I have a Ford Motorsport T5 "Z" transmission. I also used a 5.0 style bell housing and clutch fork with the matching boot/seal. There are some variations of this kit with different diameters, but I used the 10.5 because it was compatible with my flywheel. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7560-A302N/ http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-king-cobra-clutch-kit.html
  15. Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Thanks for the link as well, that will come in handy.