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Wrapping woodgrain for cluster and clock panel!

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Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time.

I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after.





Things you'll need:

3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain)

Sharp razor blades


Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun)


Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace.



Step 1: removing old woodgrain

Picture 1


To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain.


Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve

Picture 2


I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain


Step 3: applying new woodgrain

Picture 3


Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable.

Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished.

I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3


Step 4: folding over the edge

Picture 4


In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive.


Step 5: cutting holes

Picture 5


In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6)


next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive.


Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.

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Haha. I'd be happy to do it but theven point of diy is to save cost. And with the woodgrain running pretty expensive for what I needed for my mach1 I didn't want to spend more to have someone else do it. I'd be open to doing people's wood grain for around $150, but what's the point? It's more fun doing it yourself.

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Great work, i have to do my panels but i cannot buy the 3m wood grain here.
So i bought it off amazon, wow , 2 rolls plus shipping $150 oz dollars $108 usd.

How did you do the right side panel with the indent for the mach 1 strip.

Could you explain it here as it would be much appreciated.


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