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MN69Grande

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MN69Grande last won the day on July 25 2017

MN69Grande had the most liked content!

About MN69Grande

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 02/16/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maple Grove, MN

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    Minnesota

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  1. Tips for tightening Alternator belt?

    Well. I'm sure there are other ways. But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209 You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt. Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool. Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself.
  2. So the first 'Easy project' I was going to tackle in December was simple. Replace the door wiring harness on the drivers side. Once I had the door apart I notice the power window unit was all bent up so I started digging. The front Glass Run was not bolted in on the top, the rear stop had a nut attached to it with a hose clamp to make the window stop lower than the max adjustment. Anyway. I put a bolt in run and took the nut off. I beat the power window bracket back into shape and put it all back together. I also converted to bolt in glass. Things seemed to work but the power window bracket didn't hold shape. I called electric life, they don't do repairs or sell replacement part and said I'd need to order a new kit. So I ordered a kit from Nu-Relic. Which is WAY more substantial. Wish I bought it originally. Anyway got it in. Now nothing wiggles or moves. However the glass pinches against the inner door skin in the back a little past the door lock pull when I roll the window down. I've move both glass run at the bottom as close to inside of the car as possible. I'm thinking of taking everything apart for 400th time pulling the runs, and trimming the tabs at the bottom a bit so I can move them say 1/4 - 3/8 further in. However any other suggestions would be great.
  3. 3G conversion original charging cable

    So mine was melted a little about 2-3 inches from the alternator. So I cut it there, pulled the cut out part out of the connector, pulled the remainder back a couple inches. Taped off the open end separately, laid that bit back against the harness and wrapped it again in electrical tape. So there is a bit of a bump at the end of the harness but you really have to look at it to find it.
  4. Fuel Neck Filler Mods?

    This is just a guess, but I would assume they have a lot of government compliance they have to go through selling primarily fuel related auto/industrial equipment parts vs niche hobby restoration parts. There is probably a lot of liability involved. My guess is they have had issues in the past or great concerns in this area; probably why they would have the type of insurance they do. Just a guess, but the US is a pretty litigious place. So since they probably aren't interested in entering the Austrian market they most likely just have a policy to turn down small purchase requests as the liability of getting sued is well beyond the small earnings potential. Especially if they haven't got through any compliance testing for foreign markets.
  5. Best manufacturer for NEW AOD?

    Check out silver fox. I was thinking of going with one of his. But kept my c4 and added a gear vendors. I assume you mean a rebuilt aod from the 80s early 90s with new improved valve body and shift pattern. He can build you anything. Lots and lots of options. http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/silverfoxtrans.com/Home.html
  6. Mach 1

    Maybe it could have been an all-wheel drive dual motor Tesla beating EV Mustang.... Would that be better or worse use of the name?
  7. 3G conversion original charging cable

    So I cut out the original charging wire. The Rocket Man Conversion of the gauge has you cut the connection for the ampmeter out of the circuit board behind the dash. So if you go voltmeter and change the ampmeter connection I'd get rid of the old line. I thought it would be more of a hazard than anything. Scroll down the page to find the Mustang Gauges: http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all
  8. Fuel Neck Filler Mods?

    This is awesome! Great work. I think this will go on next years mod lists as this winter already has more than I can get done!
  9. Best carbureter for stock 302

    Not the easiest to come by. But I did see this site recently. http://www.championcarburetor.com/6669-autolite-4100-carburetor-w-kickdown-lever-4v-112-venturi-remanufactured-p-10696.html
  10. safety netural switch

    Don't bring the Mustang into such a devious plot, possibly sacrifice the daily instead. That's a nice looking mach.
  11. Best carbureter for stock 302

    If it's all stock I've heard of people having real nice success with the Holley 2bbl. Save a little money (no need for an intake) and work on your side: http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/0-4412S/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710573699&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-391305285814:pla-208407111911&CATARGETID=230006180037475183&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAiAhfzSBRBTEiwAN-ysWENFUHSSUK-B0vSvLyU6vDsoX3SAGoY0qmRAxEho9g9nFVg_ETa1JxoClfAQAvD_BwE Without changing some of the other parts of your engine I'm not sure you'll get a ton more out of the car with a 4 bbl. But if that is the route you want to go I've also heard good things about the quick fuel 500-600 cfms. Also I would look at the Holley 570 Street Avenger.
  12. Need help choosing Leaf spring height

    1969_Mach1 Watts Links and Pan Hards both primarily limit the side to side movement during cornering. The big difference is how the control the roll center of the car around the axel during up and down movement. Here's a fun article about it: https://www.americanmuscle.com/what-is-a-watts-link.html
  13. Mach 1

    Yeah I'm a little surprised the Bullitt isn't for 2018 and then we could have had a Mach 1 for 2019. I wonder when they will give the details to GT500.
  14. DIFF GEARING

    I've got a C4 with a Gearvendors OD. Final Drive Ratio of C4 + Gearvendors = .78 with 3.55 gears I've got a 2.77 total effective ratio and I find it very drive-able at all speeds. So I'd have to agree that 3.73s would be a fun option to drive something a little more all-around might be 3.55s. Personally since these are mostly weekend cars I like a little more pep so I wouldn't go lower the 3.40s. I'm at 2500 rpm at 70 mph so the motor is going but it's not ridiculous. With the 5 speed and 3.73s you would be at around 2300 rpm at 70. With 3.55s your down to 2000 rpm. What are you getting now with the 2.75s about 1690 rpm? If you do go with the higher gears though I would suggest going Truetrac if the cost doesn't kill you.
  15. Meet Virginia

    Well added a transmission cooler today. Took a couple tries to make a bracket that worked well. Attached it to core support upright if that is a thing. Need to run the hoses but I'm really happy with how it came out. Also got my freshly painted grill re-installed.
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