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MN69Grande last won the day on July 25

MN69Grande had the most liked content!

About MN69Grande

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 02/16/1978

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    Maple Grove, MN


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  1. Are these heads any good?

    I've never purchased heads I didn't realize they were individual. Mine came with the motor. Since that is the case - then money wise this is like 1/2 price. Assuming everything is low miles and in good shape.
  2. Are these heads any good?

    OK here are my 2 cents. I have almost this same setup from a Ford Crate engine. Honestly the driving characteristics are nice. The power comes in just right for most cruising and a bit of spirited driving I don't think it would be great on a track. The heads are noisy and impossible to get quiet. They use a pedestal mounted design where you pre-set the load on the rocker. You get them in spec by adding shims or grinding the pedestal down until the valve lash is with-in spec (checked with a feeler gauge). Once in spec you are not supposed to add any additional torque to quiet them down. The noise is a common complaint (I've seen people write that they think it sounds like sewing machines under the hood) if you search out on the web and it drives me a little crazy. If I were to do it over again the big change I would make is when I was selecting a crate engine I would have gone with the crate motor the had the Edelbrock top end setup over the GT-40x. But that is me. And it isn't worth the cost/effort to change for me now unless I'm going with a bigger cam and more wild heads. Now price wise - The heads on Summit go for $600 The Cam by itself is $200 with lifters and spider tray $425 The Rockers run $200 but are discontinued (M-6564-B351) Push rods run what $100 (do these come with the deal?) So assuming the lifters are included (though I don't know if I'd reuse lifers or push rods) the price new is ~1325. Also I can't remember if push rod guides are needed (or if they are included in what is being sold here) so that could add to the price. So the price is more than 30% discounted over new. If that price is without lifters or you will need to replace the lifters you really aren't getting much of a discount to live with the risks of used parts. How many miles are on the parts? Have they been independently inspected for wear by a good engine builder? You'll get decent power for the money. But you might be happier mix and matching new components. Trick Flow has some really affordable heads ($660 on up) with stud mount rockers. Edelbrock run more ($800 on up) but seem to be a popular option. I don't know maybe other people like the Ped-Mount rockers, I think they are a pain and noisy. Is the guys engine running now? What do you think of the sound?
  3. Meet Virginia

    Ahh.... As they say WINTER IS COMING... in fact we've had four snow falls already this year already. So right now my transmission is out and getting rebuilt with some stronger components and my car is not in the garage to play with. But I'm trying to plan out my winter projects. I've skipped working on the car all summer because it was working well enough to drive it (until the tranny went out on the last drive of the season). I've already got most the parts. Focus is front end. Rollerize/adjusterize everything and put in a steering rack. Also replace the master cylinder and double check the MC push rod clearance (the brakes don't engage until I press the pedal 1/2 or more of the way down). Anyway just for fun I put down my hopeful to do list. We'll see how far I can get before April. Project Estimated Time Plus 50% Rework, causing other issues, and Problem Solving Parts Ordered Parts Received Comments Drivers door wiring harness 3-4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes New Brake Master Cylinder 5 Hours 7.5 hours Yes Yes Need to adjust the push rod, purge the fluid, and bleed Roller Spring Perches 2 Hours 3 hours Yes Yes Roller LCA 2 Hours 3 hours Yes Yes Adjustable Strut Rods 3-4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes Repair/replace horn steering wheel/column contacts 3-4 hours 6 hours No No Need to inspect parts once steering wheel is off Paint Steering Column 2 hours 3 hours Yes Yes Unisteer Power Rack and Pinion 10 hours 15 hours Yes Yes Repair Thermostat Leak 30 min 1 hour Yes Yes Del-A-Lum Rear spring bushings 2-3 hours 4.5 hours No No Detail "Mustang" and "Grande' " Emblems 1 hour 1.5 hours No No Had a black Paint Marker can't find it now Front shoulder Upper seat belt Cover 30 min 1 hour Yes Yes Miss placed, step 1 find the part Front shoulder Lower seat belt install 1.5 hours 2.5 hour No No Trouble shoot Cigarette lighter 1-100 hours 150 hour No No Hoping this is somehow related to isse with door wiring and will go away once that harness is replaced. Paint Grill 4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes
  4. Came across a sad picture....

    The link is still good dlvr.it/P7Lwd1 it goes to http://www.peacearchnews.com/news/sports-car-crashes-into-tree-in-delta/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter Anyway the caption says "The driver was taken to the hospital with non-life-threatening injuries." So that part is good news, but that car is a total lose.
  5. Lights Vs Temp Sensor

    Actually now that this topic is back up I started to wonder if there is another possible culprit. The aftermarket gauges have a dimmer feed that I hooked up by tapping into the feed out of the switch. I wonder if this could cause the reading to be off somehow. I wouldn't lose much by disconnecting this feed. On the digital gauges I have (Temp and Oil Pressure) they only seem to dim from a level 10 to 9.5. Seems to work on the mini tach. If I remember right I used bullet style connectors and electrical tape so killing the feed should be easy enough. So next year when it gets hot again I'll try recreating the issue then disconnect that feed and see if that might fix the issue. Maybe I'll get lucky. If does I can just wrap the connectors and tie them off.
  6. Lights Vs Temp Sensor

    You are mostly correct. Yes I'm using an aftermarket gauge. I've already run a direct line from the sender to the gauge. The ground is attached to the lower dash close to headlight switch. But to get at that ground would require removing the Dash pad. Hence my hesitation.
  7. Lights Vs Temp Sensor

    Hey Danno, I haven't actually dug into this any more. I didn't need to drive at night again, so I didn't see the results reproduced. And since the next thing to trouble shoot requires removing the dash... well I figured it just wasn't bad enough to take the time. If I have to get in there for something else then I'll move the ground and see what happens.
  8. seat belt buckles

    You have a few options. https://www.cjponyparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=1969+mustang+deluxe+seat+belts&p=1
  9. Front valence oil or trans cooler

    Did you use the supplied ziptie/straps or mount it another way? Pics? Are either of you running a trans temp gauge? If so where did you install the sensor?
  10. C4 is probably shot - HELP.

    Well I talked to a couple more shops. One guy gave me a good quote but looking at the paperwork he gave I suspect the parts maybe aren't that great. @danno I drove over to Kennedy on lake like you suggested. Mark was a really nice guy. I think I talked a little to the owner as well. But they didn't want to give me a price without taking it apart to see what was wrong with it. Which I understand, but I would have liked a ball park figure. Even a range of best case to worst case scenarios would have been helpful. Maybe if I decide pull it myself I might take it over. But I don't think I want to drag the whole car over there without a better idea of what I'm getting into.
  11. C4 is probably shot - HELP.

    Only had time to visit one shop last week. Bid came in a few hundred higher than I expected. The big difference came with them pushing a custom built torque converter at $600-700. From the bid: "To handle the HP we would have to use a Billet Converter, and performance internals." The last one I got at summit for $350. Of course I wasn't super happy with the last one and wanted to go with a higher stall speed anyway. Does this seem reasonable? Still need to hit up a couple other places.
  12. Driving a classic car

    I think this is especially true owning a Mustang. Everyone had one or knows someone that had one and they had great times in them.
  13. C4 is probably shot - HELP.

    Thanks for the follow up Danno. I'm going to try and hit 3-4 shops this weekend. Proven Force in Maple Grove, Affordable Transmission & Performance in Northeast Minneapolis, Kennedy on East Lake, and a local shop we've been getting the majority of repairs done (he seems to get a lot of classic work out here). To be honest if I were to go the step of changing the type of transmission and all that is involved there I will do a five speed swap. Probably a Tremec as I still kick around the idea of a cam swap so I want a little power handling left above my current needs. I've also seen online 3 or 4 crate C-4s that can handle 450-750hp (Performance Automatic, Animal Performance Transmission, TCI has one, etc) so that maybe another option. tim42 - bummer about your sable. I guess in my opinion it is better they didn't just take your money, pull it apart and put it back together with no change; many shops would do that and charge you twice. I've been reading reviews on some other local places and it seems common for good shops to turn down work rather than take on something that might cost the car owner exorbitantly by going down a rabbit hole. Just my 2 cents.