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MN69Grande last won the day on September 24 2018

MN69Grande had the most liked content!

About MN69Grande

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 02/16/1978

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    Maple Grove, MN


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  1. Dash Circuit Board and Voltage regulator https://www.cjponyparts.com/circuit-board-without-tach-1969-1970/p/DCB1/ and https://www.cjponyparts.com/constant-voltage-regulator-1969-1973/p/HW1567/ I was having issues with the fuel gauge and bought these for trouble shooting. They didn't help I ended up replacing the actual gauge. So now I have and extra circuit board and regulator. If some needs them PM me. ~$84 at CJ Pony Parts, sell them for $35 + shipping.
  2. Saw this on you tube. I thought they did a nice job. Car looks great.
  3. HAHa. I meant to come and look at this forum when the announcement was made about this thing and forgot. Pretty much what I expected. I think true Mustang enthusiasts will hate this thing no matter how good it looks (which it doesn't look great) or how well it will perform (the stats actually look decent). Electric - Bah, Four doors - NOOOOOO!!!!, SUV ---- Forget about it!, oh and it doesn't really look like a Mustang - plus that huge flat running horse on the front is offensive. I have no hate for Electric cars or self driving cars. In fact a full on electric 2 door sports car Mustang could be cool if done right (the Teslas put up amazing performance figures and most of those are family mobiles). Someday I'll probably have an electric car. But I still love the old stuff too and hope we are allowed to continue to play with them and drive them on public roads in the futures... and I suppose get gas for them once the majority of cars are electric. But for most sheeple out there a car is just a utility or appliance, the marketing folks know this and are trying to jump start Fords move to electric so they are using the massive good will Mustangs have to do it. We'll hate it but - it will probably work. I thought this was an interesting analysis of the whole thing.
  4. Hi stang-R-me. I ordered and installed your insert. It works very well. One of my favorite mods. People at the local show think I'm nuts when i say 'let me show you the fuel filler it's a neat trick'. I used a punch to hold it in position then JB welded it. It's held for 2 summers and looks as strong as when I put it in.
  5. I have a similar kit as Mike65(Installed about 2012). They work pretty well. But I will say I did have one caliper have a seal fail on me already. Could be my driving though. The nice thing is I could get the parts from Napa to fix it. They can get similar calipers, pads, etc as this was optional equipment on a few cars from I think 1965 through 1968.
  6. If you are going with a rack and pinion most manufactures have instructions/other parts for the iDidit columns. I have a Unisteer Rack and love it, but I kept the stock column. https://www.unisteer.com/1965-1970-mustang/search-by-vehicle/ford/65-70-mustang.html
  7. I second barnett468's suggestion at looking at the torque converter specs if you didn't rebuild the engine with stock parts. In high school I put a performance build in with a stock converter with a stock transmission and had to stand on the brakes to keep the car from moving at a light. Normally you can either talk to a good transmission shop or email performance torque converter manufactures with your engine and rear end specs and they can tell you the correct stall to use. Also if you have a modified engine I would recommend getting an aftermarket tach. They are easy to install with no modification to the car. Just run 3 wires. I've got one strapped to the steering column. The more information you get about how your car is running the better you can trouble shoot and maintain the car. @Ridge Runner I also thought he was calling FMX guys jerks! I always found FMX owners pretty decent folk :)
  8. You need to subscribe to MotorTrendOnDemand.com to see the whole episode. But a year or maybe 2 ago the RoadKill crew found a 69 Mustang in a junk yard in Colorado. They got it running for a couple miles and that was the end of the first episode. Then in another video they slapped another motor into it and killed that motor. The Frieburger sent it off for rust repair and now they are putting in a good Drive Train. I'm kind of excited to see end result. It sounds like they want to make it a reliable daily but leave all the patina and bit of the nastiness of 30+ years in the junkyard. Just for fun I sent them an email about the site.. who knows maybe they'll start a build thread (probably not).
  9. Yeah every couple years an article or two pops up about these. The production numbers were supposedly really low. I read once only 50 of them sold. I think they had strange gearing like 2.30 and a high stall converter. 0-60 in the mid 13 second range. At least they tried something.
  10. I think foothilltom is looking for the tree/port in the back of the engine bay behind the carb on the drivers side. The parts mike65 is showing are a tempurater switch that changes the vacuum advance on the distributor from manifold to port vacuum based on engine temp. It goes in the front just behind the thermostat housing. I blocked this off with a brass plug and run the ported vacuum from my holley to the distributor. Not sure where to get the part foothilltom is looking for but you could try somengood salvage yards. West coast cougars seem to always a ton of weird ford and mercury parts. Here is what I found on their site: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/vacuum-fitting-brass-intake-manifold-used-1968-1969-mercury-cougar-/-1968-1969-ford-mustang.html?attribs=88 Also if you search 'Vacuum Fitting' on Summit some generic ones popup. A final option is a standard brass fitting from the hardware store that screws into the manifold with a large out, hose clamp, and finally a series of plastic tees from the auto store.
  11. I had similar issues as well with new shocks, springs, larger wheels and tires. I ended up having rock hard bushings in my spring perches and strut rods. As well as a bent strut rod. This kept the wheels from traveling correctly and added a bit of a wiggle. Not really a bump steer. I replaced them with roller spring perches and adjustable strut rods from opentracker. It really improved my handling. Though I also added roller LCAs as well. Either way if these parts are worn out they are probably worth looking at to replace with stock or upgrade. Perches https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-coil-spring-saddle-high-performance-1965-1973/p/CSS4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/ Strut rods or bushings https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushing-kit-1967-1973/p/SRB8/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-strut-rod-bushings-heavy-duty-1967-1973/p/SRB10/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-passenger-side-1968-1973/p/SR3/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/strut-rod-driver-side-1968-1973/p/SR4/ https://opentrackerracing.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods-1968-1973/ LCA https://opentrackerracing.com/product/drag-racing-roller-lower-control-arm-1968-1973-mustang/
  12. When I had an Edelbrock we modified a 302 2v bracket just slightly to deal with the vacuum on the back similar to above. just took some metal out really. For the kick down we cut and extended the little tab of metal that connects to carb. However Holley now has a kick down extension you can buy. Funny though I didn't need the extension with a Holley 4 bbl just with the Edelbrock. But I eventually went with a lokar cable and bracket. Much happier the stock cable would bind for me. Here is the kick down extension https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-41 This bracket came up when I was looking for the kickdown link. It looks like it might be worth considering https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1419
  13. You are correct of course. But all of this on my install was measured and the angles are well within tolerances. One reason I used a shop theat specializes in drive trains for the install was to avoid such a scenario but plenty of people have installed GVs with good success. The shop also created a new custom and balanced drive shaft for a reasonable price too. My current set up has zero vibration. So really I think the note here is to make sure your angles are with in tolerances and you get a good balanced drive shaft.
  14. I love mine. 302/347 built c4 and 3.5 trutrak. I did the rear gears and GV at the same time and get almost the same rpms and the stock 2.8 gearing and c4. All it required was slight modification to the transmission cross member to lower the transmission like 1/2 in and a new drive shaft. I had the shop that did the rear gears put in the GV( and inspect it as it was used) and I wired it. I didn't like the foot switch or main on/off switches. So I found a USB power supply for screwing in under the dash on amazon pulled the guts on and put in a round on/off. Hid it right under the windshield wiper switch by angling it a little behind the center console. I then used a motorcycle handle bar mount on/off switch and attached it to the gear shifter of the activation. I did have to use some rubber gripping material to get this to work as handlebars are larger in diameter than the gear shifter. The biggest choice will be deciding where to mount the controller. I 3m trim double sided taped it to the bottom of the ac/heater box. That's held for 3 years. Another guy in MN did his own on his 1970 with a Cleveland and C6 and also loves it. Its fun to be able to switch gears manually. He uses it to drag race. He's burnt out 3 C6s and not hurt the GV unit. My recommendation would be if your transmission Is week or high milage or worn out. Do some kind of built AOD swap (I had looked at silver fox). However if everything else is good do the GV. On a side note the GVs keep about 70% of their value. So it can always be pulled and sold.
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