MN69Grande

Hi Everyone, I haven't had the Mustang out this summer as I was working on some of the front suspension. When I finished I needed to bleed the brakes. Everything went fine the pedal is hard with the car off hard to push to the floor. When I start the car there is no brake feel very easy to push to the floor. I re-bled the brakes to the point I've now flushed the system twice with the same results. With the car off plenty of brake feel, with it running no brake feel. When I turn it off again the pressure/brake feel returns. I removed vacuum from the booster and started the car plenty of brake feel - same as with the car off. I've been hesitant to actually put the car in reverse as I worry that I'll have any stopping power. I've read in some places this could be a failed valve in the booster? I've never liked the feel of the system, there was never a lot of feed back and the pedal has always been easy to push - but I could feel the brakes bite a little now nothing with the booster having vacuum. I can push the pedal to the floor with no pressure back. I did try a new check valve with no change in results. Some specs. 1969 Grande (Early 69 build date lots of 68 parts on the car) originally 4 wheel drum. CSRP Kelsey Hayes conversion done 10 years ago, GM style Prop valve. Originally Midland style booster, when replaced 10 years ago replaced with Bendix style from Cardone https://www.cardone.com/product/vacuum-power-brake-booster-54-73222. Over the last 10 years I've replaced the calipers when the pistons started to leak (I don't know if this is normal - because of the MN freeze/heat cycle every year). I also replaced the flex lines this year when I was in working on the suspension. Any thoughts? Do I replace the booster? I was just reading about this guy on WestCoastCougars https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17969/32082/brake-booster-power-midland-style-repro-1967-1969-mercury-cougar-1967-1969-ford-mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26 I might put rams and blocks behind the wheels and try the brakes with the vacuum disconnected - possibly manual mode will work so I can at least move it.

2 months later...... Not that anyone was waiting for an update, but a couple things to note here. I took the nut completely off the lower control arm's ball joint before using a ball joint separator and ruined all the threads. So word of caution to anyone doing this loosen the nut a few thread then use the ball joint tool, then remove the nut further and pull the spindle off the lower control arm. I could not fix the threads so I ended up looking high and low for ball joints ( additionally I found the upper was worn out, not sure it's ever been replaced). The arms are good and I put roller lowers in a few years ago so I didn't want to replace everything. You used to be able to get ball joints at NAPA and such but I wasn't having any luck at the parts store. They wanted to sell complete arms. But Kentucky Mustang had them, and also CJ Pony Parts has listings. https://www.kentuckymustang.com/chassis/suspension.html?cat=160&year=6032 So as the project was getting bigger anyway I also decided to do the Shelby drop and change the front springs. I picked up Ridetech's Shelby kit with ball joint spacers and a template, and their progressive rate springs. Putting in the spring on the first side was interesting I had to compress it a little to get it over the spring perch, but then if fully uncrompressed with no tension as I didn't have the suspension supported by anything. I then installed the shock to the lower control arm and used my floor jack to raise the suspension, while guiding the spring into place. Then I installed the top of the shock. I released the jack and the shock seems to hold everything in place. I'm sure it will be fine with weight back on everything. I'm hoping I don't end up with too much of a rake with the new springs and Shelby drop. I might have to mess with the back end's suspension next. https://www.ridetech.com/product/1967-1970-mustang-streetgrip-dual-rate-front-coil-springs-pair/?mc_cid=bb7414343e&mc_eid=b0e97bead3 https://www.ridetech.com/product/1964-1970-mustang-streetgrip-ball-joint-wedge-plates-pair/?mc_cid=bb7414343e&mc_eid=b0e97bead3 At any rate I've got one side back together next week I should be able to do the other. So first thing in the spring after that I'll get new front tires and an alignment and be ready to go.

No but they aren't horrible $150 for a spindle won't break me I guess.

Ok Spindle ordered. Not sure if folks here use it but I find West Coast Cougar has a lot of misc parts. Looks like they have a pile of spindles (might have come from a cougar but that doesn't really matter). Maybe 'while I'm in there' now is a good time to replace the front shocks and springs. The shocks are 11 years old and ok but if I have to pull one side anyway. I never liked the performance springs and have been thinking of going with the progressive rate ones. Have to sleep on this decision.

Thanks everyone - I was thinking replace as well. So more information I'm running the Kelsey - Hayes style 4 piston setup. They go right onto the stock drum spindles. As for the what/how of the failure I think the bearing gave out (the other side went out 25k miles ago from the same kit I think they were maybe low quality) and I kept driving tearing it all up worse and the the race started riding on the spindle. I didn't take it apart when I got home I came back to it 30 hours later so I don't know it was hot, but I would assume so. Anyway I guess it's time to look for a new drivers side spindle.

Maybe not one of my finer moments but this weekend I had the car out on a longer drive in the country. I was about 70 miles from home. I had heard a grinding the previous weekend from the front drivers wheel and thought my pads might be wearing (dumb I didn't pull the wheels after that trip). Anyway the grinding got way worse and it became harder to control the car. Rather than pulling over with out tools and because I could still control the car I decided to limp home at a reduced, though not slow speed. I sure most of you guessed my wheel bearing was going out - and it disintegrated the last 5 or so miles. Pulled the wheel tonight to assess the damage. Both bearing are a pile of mettle and cones knocking around in the rotor. Looking at the spindle it looks like a small gouge was worn into the metal (see pick). Opinion do I order a new spindle or grind the burs off, clean it up, and re-used? You can see 2-3 threads are now missing on the bottom. Also is the Scott Drake an ok replacement? Any other option?

I think some common supplier out there is having issues. I have a Ford Racing 347 short block on order since March and the expected date is 1/23/2023. I have orders placed with a couple companies. Sine the price has gone up 33% since i ordered i'm debating keeping both orders and selling the second one that arrives. Orginally my plan was to cancel one once i jad shipping confermatiin.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

Saw an ad for a rolled over 88 Fox Body GT 5.0 Convertible. I'm thinking about building a Factory Five Mark IV roadster (I hope people don't mind me posting here I always like the advice provided). The ad states the car has 36k original miles, that he rolled it 20 years ago. The price is $1200. I really only want the Engine to rebuild, the rear end, and possibly the spindles. The car is a disaster so I'd have to find a place to take it apart and haul it in for scrap. My garage is currently full, but I might be able to use a shop at my dads. I'd still want to change the rear axels out to 5 lug but Factory Five wants $2600 just for the rear axel assembly. Any thoughts on the price? Second question would a stock 8.8 take ~415 hp with similar torque? Anyone interested in the AOD? How much should I ask if I pull it and sell it?

I dont know what pumps he used. But I would take it out, clean it, and look for any stamping with a Part number. I believe Randall's racks were gm parts. So if can find a part number u can have a parts store look it up in their reference guide. Most likely they can get you a new pump pretty cheap. I think most the main components in that kit were over the counter.

I've come up with the following plan to deal with the Corona Virus. I'm telling my wife we need to practice 'social distancing' and I'll be in the garage for the next 6 weeks. I've stock piled all the major supplies of shop towels, pumice soap, and beer (probably Dos Equis). I've moved the big screen into the garage for news updates and old Chevy Chase films. And she should be on the look out for emergency supplies that will be marked Summit Racing, Jegs, CJ Pony Parts, and NPD. With a little luck and some time the car and I will get through this pandemic with some decent upgrades completed. I'll let you all know how it goes.

IMO without changing at least the CAM both of the carbs are more than you engine needs. If you aren't planning any more upgrades I'd go on the lower side with the Eddie. If a CAM and Mild - Medium heads are in the future I'd go with the Holley 570, this is plenty of carb for most 302 applications. But another option that might save you money is a Holley 2300 2 bbl. These can be had with 500 CFM and you wouldn't need to change your intake. If you want to see what you are running now - look at your stock carb you can find out the venturi size and then use the below to determine what the factory CFM is. "These following numbers are for Motorcraft/Autolite carbs. This number can be found on the side of the float bowl, right behind the accelerator pump rod, inside of a circle. The number on the right corresponds with the cfm rating on the left. Thanks to chas1234 for these numbers. The first numbers are the venturi size, the second is the corresponding cfm. These numbers are for 2BBL carbs only. Number = CFM .98 = 190 1.01 = 240 1.02 = 245 1.08 = 287 1.14 = 300 1.21 = 351 1.23 = 356 1.33 = 424" - this is from a truck forum but same parts on our cars https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/116072-autolite-motorcraft-cfm-ratings-and-general-info.html My guess is in the middle somewhere since the same carbs were used on bigger engines than 302s (like 400s) which would need more CFMs.

+1 on changing over to solid type adjustables with a joint. I got mine from Rosehill performance and they made a huge difference. I think you can't go wrong with open tracker or street or tracks either. TCP also used to sell them I think. If you really want a change go with roller spring perches and lower control arms.

I have a DCC it took a long time to get. I'm looking at my emails and I ordered/paid for it Mid June and received it mid August. So basically 2 months. It's worked great the 3 years I've had it. They are notorious for not communicating between sale and shipment. After I received the unit and installed it response time was fine on support issues. If you are on a time crunch to get your Fan setup working you might want to look at alternatives if not I'd give it a couple more weeks. Good luck I know how frustrating waiting on parts can be.

I second or third the heddman's. I've been running them 7 years. Mine are ceramic coated. They have been pretty good to work with even with an after market rack and pinion. I have run the quiter versions of flow masters (50 series) and now run dynomax VTs. The flow masters had a good mellow tone without a lot of drown. The dynomaxes are more fun because they are quiter when cruising but when u stand on the throttle a valve opens under pressure and they make a lot more noise. Not as much as magna flow but it is fun in a tunnel or by stone walls.