MN69Grande

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MN69Grande last won the day on February 13

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About MN69Grande

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 02/16/1978

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    Male
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    Maple Grove, MN

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    Minnesota

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  1. A bit of good news in the follow up: http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/07/21/ninos-classic-mustang-replaced-family-says-support-well-wishes-almost-overwhelming/499051001/
  2. Great show today. Mustangs from most years. Only 1 1969 mine and 1 1970 Mach One M code. Lot's of 65s - 68s of all kinds. Nothing from the mid 70's. Some pretty decent Fox Bodies (I think the Foxes are due for a comeback), some Shelbies, Saleens, Rouches, and other modified. Plenty of 1994-2004s, 2005-2014s, and 2015-2017. One weird thing the folk with the newest one's don't seem to like to show the engine compartments. Not that they half to but I think most of like staring into the engine bay and say 'Yeap dat's a cool motor there' or 'look how they handled that problem maybe I should do that'. Also a couple kids tried to steal the car but their legs need to grow a bit before they pull of their evil plan.
  3. So since I got the new Aluminum radiator and the Contour fans my car runs about 182 on my digital gauge. 70 degree days 182, 80 degree days 182, 90 degrees 182. Pretty good this summer. But I always drive during the day. Tonight I stayed at a friends house a little later and turned the headlights on, on the way home not to see but to be seen. Anyway I look down at the gauge 187. Ok not to hot but higher than usual. Get into my neighborhood and shut the lights off, immediately drops to 178 then 182. So my question is could running the headlights (sealed beam) have caused the car to run 5 degree's hotter. Or is it possible turning them on affected the way the gauge was reading? The wires are no where near each other. Anyway Strange happening wondered if this happens to anyone else.
  4. So since I got the new Aluminum radiator and the Contour fans my car runs about 182 on my digital gauge. 70 degree days 182, 80 degree days 182, 90 degrees 182. Pretty good this summer. But I always drive during the day. Tonight I stayed at a friends house a little later and turned the headlights on, on the way home not to see but to be seen. Anyway I look down at the gauge 187. Ok not to hot but higher than usual. Get into my neighborhood and shut the lights off, immediately drops to 178 then 182. So my question is could running the headlights (sealed beam) have caused the car to run 5 degree's hotter. Or is it possible turning them on affected the way the gauge was reading? The wires are no where near each other. Anyway Strange happening wondered if this happens to anyone else.
  5. If you want to keep running those Halogens, you might want to look into a relay kit. Keep all those amps from traveling through the harness altogether. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
  6. This is a fun one. Car show with a lot of Mustangs and some other ponies running races. http://www.southwestmetromustangclub.com/images/2017mustangsandponiesshow.pdf
  7. I haven't done an AOD. But I did add an overdrive to my car, however at the same time I changed the gears from 2.80 to 3.55. And I love it. I get similar mileage but a lot more smiles out of driving. So I would just add besides freeway driving you might also want to think about if you want a little more giddy up in you pony through the whole range. At 70 mph I get the sameish RPMs now as I did before, but it is a lot more fun getting there. So while you're messing with the drive train you might want to think about the whole drive train. Of course it's easy for me to spend your money right....
  8. So to check the gauges at the measure at sending unit. The other suggestion just tells you the health of the radiator. You can gauge how much heat is shed from going through the radiator. Sorry if I muddied the water it's just something you can do to see how much cooling is happening with the radiator.
  9. I wouldn't open the radiator cap with the engine at temperature. For one coolant temp in the radiator will be less than at the sensor (maybe not not a huge amount but still). For the other that seems like a messy and dangerous thing to do. Beg, borrow, or steal an Infrared heat gun or by one for $30 (there are also some for as little as $10 that look like remote controls but I don't think they are very durable). https://www.harborfreight.com/Non-Contact-Infrared-Thermometer-With-Laser-Targeting-69465.html any hardware or parts store will have them on the shelf. Point it at the sensor/sending unit. It will read a few degrees colder than what the coolant actually is. This should at least tell you which gauge is more accurate. 210 vs 190. Are you using the same sending unit with both gauges? Are the sending unites and gauges compatible? Also once you have the tool you can see how well your radiator is working by comparing the temps for the inlet and outlet hoses going to your radiator.
  10. For those in MN or Western WI that like modified and customs this is great show to go to. This weekend Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. http://www.streetmachinenationals.net/StreetMachineNationalsStPaul
  11. Tuning tuning tuning. Car was running pretty good but had a small stumble on take off, a rich idle, and a couple places in the throttle where things would lean out a little on the AFR (15-15.5). Finally figured it out. Needed to change from a 6.5 to a 5.5 power valve and reset the idle mixture. Once I did the difference was huge. I left the 6.5 in after using a vacuum gauge and getting 13-14 lbs at idle in drive. But I didn't drive around and average the reading. What I found is when I get on the throttle the vacuum would drop a lot then get stronger once the RPMs climbed again. I believe the PV was opening and dumping gas when the engine didn't need it. I'm pretty sure I had the idle circuit lean and when the PV closed as the RPMs climbed I would get lean right before the secondaries opened. It also had a weird lean spot at 1/4 throttle before for some reason. So new PV, up one step on the front jets, reset the idle circuit. Still idles a little rich and when I take my foot off the gas while driving. But I stay in a nice 12.5 - 14.5 on the AFR through the entire acceleration curve now. The stumble is gone, now the I just have a 1/2 second hesitation on initial take off. But I'm pretty sure that is because I changed the accelerator pump cam to a less aggressive one. So I'll swap that back and see what happens. I guess the moral of the story - use a Vacuum gauge, drive around, and get an average vacuum reading to set your PV. Reading plugs and an AFR won't do everything for you.
  12. Funny I watched that video 2 dozen times at least to prepare for the job. What a huge hassle. All the doors were frozen shut, the gaskets had turned to dust, the fiberglass needed repair. Nightmare. Glad to hear you like the Classic Air kit.
  13. So if everyone doesn't mind I'd like to throw my own questions into this thread as they are similar in nature. I had the front brakes upgraded to discs with a Kelsey Hayes style kit. Since then the brake pedal is mushy. The car stops fine, in fact if you panic stop it will put anyone not strapped in into the windshield. But there is a lot of pedal travel before braking starts to happen. The breaks have been bled several times making no difference. Last fall I replaced the rear shoes, cylinders, lines, and hardware kits. Bled again no change. I have no idea if the Master was Bench Bled, or if the combination style dist block/prop valve was locked in to position during the original bleedings (it wasn't locked during the last bleeding either). Anyway when I get time I plan to replace the Master Cylinder again, mostly because the one put in there wasn't painted or coated and it's the only rusty bit in the engine bay. At which time I'll bench bleed the new one. My question is with the combination style valve how can I make sure the proportioning valve is in the correct position? I ordered the tool above to lock it in place but want to make sure the valve is in the right position to begin with. Also I got my hands on a tool from Baer to measure the brake push rod length to make sure the clearance is correct there while I've got things apart. Any other suggestions? Finally I've heard with the KH style brakes you should take them off the brackets to bleed them because of the metal line between the 2 halves of the caliper can trap air and you can get a better angle to get all the air out with them off the bracket. Can anyone confirm this is the correct way to do this?
  14. I can't speak for smidee. But the kit I'm looking at is an upgraded compressor with new factory style replacement engine bay components: dryer, condenser, lines, valves, etc. All of which needs replaced in my car anyway (most of it is missing). It cost 1/2 what a full kit costs, and I just figured why rebuild the compressor when I can get a more efficient one as it's not like my car is close to original. I replaced the evaporator when I had to replaced the heater core since it decided to spit antifreeze all over my new carpet. They both had some weird oxidation monster growing on them.