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prayers1 last won the day on March 13 2017

prayers1 had the most liked content!

About prayers1

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/01/1960


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  1. Great ideal and craftsmanship!!!!!

    Your obviously gifted!

    Are you going to sell them? If so, how much and do members get a discount. 

    Appreciate your reply

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. prayers1


      Sounds good to me!

      i definitely want one. Put me down on the list. Would I need aluminum hood hinges?

      i was thinking getting a set off RingBrothers.

      btw, are you on Instagram. If not I think you should. It would exploded.

      Have a prosperous and Happy New Year!!

    3. Ridge Runner

      Ridge Runner

      I have one ready to go . They work with stock hinges and latches . 

      I would need an address to get an exact shipping quote  

    4. prayers1


      Sorry for the delay. Life got in the way as usual. 184 Hidden Lane road. BRANSON Missouri 


  2. I have a 351 Cleveland stroked to a 408 with Aluminum CHI heads. It also has the Brass 3 core Big Block OEM Radiator and a 7 blade clutch fan. Driving on the highway it stays around 195. I have a 195 Thermostat and Kool Flow Aluminum Water Pump. In traffic it gets up to 220 and if I get on it, it will get hotter. It also has Shorty Headers. The motor fits in real tight, not much elbow room to allow cool air circulation. I'd like ti get an Aluminum Radiator that fits like a stock one and an Electric Fan. What do you all recommend? Thank you?
  3. The original LCA bolts with the eccentric washer are removed and new bolts are used with spacers, There are 4 different spacers provided that have 4 different mounting holes used to adjust the LCA for the front end alignment. Look at my above thread where I show where you can purchase the crossmember and you will see the spacers I'm talking about.
  4. Yeah, I don't want to wad up the bolt hole and get screwed, I'm kinda leaning your way since I didn't do anything to it yesterday and had more time to think on it. Also, it seems to be the easier way to start, I'd like to have a new bolt with more bite on the threads instead of the old one I have to use after I retap the hole. I feel if I go back to the old one I might be back where I started. I can't seem to find a1/2"-13 lug bolt, I'll keep looking. FYI- The bolt do need to be removed in order to place shims on the new bolts for the LCA. PS> Found the bolt as a set on Summit-379068-S
  5. As Alan_Mac did, I have to leave the crossmember in place while I make the repair, if not it would throw the alignment off. I would need to take it off to tap one size bigger. I haven't done it yet, but my thinking is that there isn't enough material to run a 1/2-13 tap which is a coarse thread. If I use a fine thread tap such as a 1/2-20, this will allow more threads to develop. I've been thinking all morning about it and I'm leaning towards a heli-coil. Downside is that due to the aftermarket heavy duty crossmember design the bolts need to come out everytime I need an alignment.
  6. 1969_Mach 1- The holes are tapered. I purchased it from a Guy On VMF, if you mention you are a member he gives a 10% discount. He's also on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1968-1970-Mustang-Cougar-Shelby-Low-Profile-engine-crossmember-/232224703239?fits=Year%3A1969|Model%3AMustang&hash=item3611abc307:g:sp4AAOSwo4pYkVLt&vxp=mtr I went to the John Deere tractor store and all they had was a 1/2-20. The original is more course 1/2-13. I picked up a tap at Home Depot 1/2-20 and if possible work on it tomorrow.
  7. I found a re-threader in my bottom draw hidden, so I'll try to retap it and see if there is enough metal to work with. I did find a spot to get these special bolts that are sold as 1/2-13 tractor wheel bolts. I'll stop at a local tractor dealer and see if I can pick one up. These bolts are specific to the design of the crossmember where it has coned hole to except the coned shoulder of the bolt. I read that Ford made tractors and used this specific bolt on them so this maybe why it shows up on the Mustang.
  8. I've been keeping an eye on the internal nut for the front crossmember. I assume in the past someone over tighten it and stripped some threads, now I just installed a heavy duty crossmember and I can't seem to get the bolt tight enough. It turns in but gets to a torque point where it jumps threads and spins. I've tried replacement similar bolts and have the same results. I was thinking of forcing a coarse thread bolt in. I can't find a bolt re-threader big enough to retread it. What do you all suggest! Thank you
  9. Thanks for the pic Larry, you really had me thinking. Mine are on right. Its raining at the time so I can't go for a test drive, but I loosen the parking brake all the way and re-adjusted the drums w/o the driveshaft attached. There must be some tightness in the rear cause the wheel still has residence to spin but not as bad as when the driveshaft was hooked up. It will spin one full revolution if i spin it hard but I hear metal rubber, the same sound when you adjust the brakes and this time it had a lot of slack on the star adjuster. I noticed when spinning the tire that there was a quite spot every revolution on each side somewhat of an oblong rotation, I do not have an oblong problem with the pads or drums. All the above makes it hard to tell if the pads are adjusted, so for now I think I have it close enough and will do the back up adjustment per 1969_Mach1 suggestion. All thoughts are welcome!
  10. OK, THANKS! I thought I was losing my mind. I've been doing brakes for years, now it feels like I have to retrain myself from bad habits. What I'm trying to do now is to make sure the drums are properly adjusted, before tackling the port valve or depth of the booster pin. I was having a hard time determining if the drums were causing the resistance from the adjustment or the trans. I felt the drums were adjusted too tight, the RH I had to back off the star a lot to get the drum off and the LH the drum just pulled off. It sounds weird but I believed the shoes were rubbing as I spun the tire or it may have been the resistance from the drivetrian who knows!!! I felt there was too much drag in neutral, so I just took the driveshaft off. Now as I spin the rear at the axle, I still feel tightness from the rear. It was rebuilt about a year ago. I had the park brake adjusted to the point that it would only take a few inches to push down on the ER brake to lock up. As I look at the top pin the ER shoe is still against the pin.
  11. Larry- How do you know which is right or left?
  12. Rsanter- I'm using the Summit Racing® Vacuum Reservoirs SUM-G1464B, it measures 5"x 6 3/4", it doesn't list its volume, but I believe it to be big enough or bigger than the Cougar one. What kind of brake system are you using, Stock or Aftermarket. I don't think its possible to switch calipers from left to right and vise versa. Mach1Rider- What your saying might be possible but for now It will have o wait towards the end of Fall, because I need to lift the motor to get the valve Cover off and right now I'd rather try something else while I can still drive the car. 1969_Mach1- I will try your brake adjustment as I had my parking brake adjusted somewhat tight when I did the manual brake adjustment. I didn't know your procedure and I've been doing my brakes for years. It does make a lot of sense with the top of the park brake loose. First chance I get I will do it and I thought also to disconnect the driveshaft when adjusting the drums cause I feel the transmission is also causing friction or drag on the free spinning of the tires.
  13. As some of you may have already read my previous post about the rear drums not stopping, when I forcefully turned the tire with someone applying the brake pedal. Therefore at this point, I am combining the 2 threads which continues as follows: I picked up a Mityvac brake bleeder and did both rear drums. I was not getting a solid steady stream of fluid, it had more bubbles in it as I that it should, but it did vacuum out the MC 2x, so I know the fluid was traveling. I looked all over and could not find any source of a leak in fact the pressure held still on the Mityvac even when it was fully pumped. I then adjusted the park brake and readjusted the rear brakes. I had the wife apply the brakes while the car was on jack stands, in neutral and running, The left rear was tight but the RR still could be turned and inch of so, so I adjusted the brake again and it held. It was easier to turn the wheel in reverse, then forwards. I feel I may have it adjusted too tight, it's really hard to tell because I always feel friction as I spin the tire to check for tightness. I took the RR apart and applied some anti-seize to the threads of the brake star, put it all together and it felt the same as before, in fact both sides feel tight as I try to free spin it. Next, I hooked the Vacuum gauge to the brake system in-line with the reserve canister, I was getting around 14" of vac at idle. Cruising it was 19 and wot 22. The brakes are stopping the car and the front nose dives but not the same as our newer cars. I slammed on the brakes and had the right front lock up a little. At this point I do not know how much the rears are stopping the car. The car does stop and I feel the somewhat feeling of pwr asst but I wonder how it would stop on a panic brake or stopping at high speeds. I do want to take the car to the track and I surely want to be able to stop after hitting 100 mph. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  14. Hard to get a pic, but this is the bottom of the booster showing the blistered paint.
  15. det0326- Here's a couple pics of the PS hoses with the shrink wrap. I had to make a U out of a piece of tubing for the low pressure since the outlet faced the front and the rubber hose would kink. I'm no not like the hose clamps they are just temporary til I find a better looking one.
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