Thatblue69_Mach1

Man. First of all 390mach1 your engine looks beautiful. I've heard putting a shaker on a non shaker car requires lots of moding, I originally wanted to put a shaker on my Mach 1 but cost + amount of molding required wasn't worth it, and then I've rear that the shaker dosnt even add hp (maybe a max of 3hp) so I gave up but your rides looking sweet and I hope you figure it out! Also shep69 your ride is also very beautiful!

Just wanted to ask a question because I cannot find anything on it. While my 69 is in the shop getting painted this week I'm fixing up different parts (replaced seat upholstery, buffing chrome trim, ect.) And while I was buffing up my rear bumper that has some rust bubbles I sat it down in my garages next to my old 66's rear bumper and they are almost an exact match! Left, widtH, bolt patterns, everything is exact except the part that wraps around the side of the car, on the 69 they are Widerstand, maybe by 2 inches. Has anyone ever tried putting a 66 rear bumper on a 69? Just curious.

Ya I agree. That's crazy. To include blacking out my hood and tail light panel my paint guy (my friend who has a shop) is only charging me 170$ more and that's the cost of paint and clear coat haha

Hi guys. My buddy had his 69 painted before mine and he went with the blackout flat black hood, mines a Mach 1 and had it originally. Now I have a question for anyone that has the blackout hood. I notice a step from the glossy paint to the matte black on the hood and I'm worried about the wear over time, has anyone gotten their hoods repainted flat black and had it last a long time? I'm worried of the wear as compared to just getting a vinyl put on for the flat black. Both seem about the same step but when the vinyl gets worn I can take off and put a new one. Paint is a much bigger process. Attached is the best pic I could get of the step.

Although I had my hoses detached, I highlighted right next to the original hoses they just run straight back and into the outlets. Nothing special.

Hey man, welcome to the forums! I live in Rancho cucamonga, North of San Diego, awesome luck finding the build sheet. I pulled my whole mach 1 apart trying to find one but my car was made in the Los Angeles plant and I guess they said it's rare to get reports from that plant. I opted for the black inserts because my exterior color is blue and seats are white with white stripes (i believe original and the upholstery has the c9 number) can't have a red stripe with blue exterior.

Haha. I'd be happy to do it but theven point of diy is to save cost. And with the woodgrain running pretty expensive for what I needed for my mach1 I didn't want to spend more to have someone else do it. I'd be open to doing people's wood grain for around $150, but what's the point? It's more fun doing it yourself.

As the title says. What's everyone's favorite detailing products, companies and tricks? Also what products, companies and tricks do you hate. Explaining is a must! Although to each his/her own. I've recently been wanting to try adams polishes, I keep reading how it's too expensive compared to chemical guys but I looked up the closest products and noticed only about $5 difference but with a 110% guarantee I can't see why not try it out.

I just replaced my headliner in my 69 Mach 1, the front windshield is a glue on, no gasket, so it wouldn't really help to remove the front glass, the part that holds the front is the metal trim that goes from a pillar to the other a pillar. Where the sun visors set in the center. That's all you need to hold the front, just don't put too much pressure in the screws holding it in or it'll rip the headliner. I have pictures if you need but it's pretty straightforward.

Okay this is the best pic I have. Not sure if you can zoom in. But at the top on the right you see where the blue meets the black? There's silver screws right there. Take those off and it'll come up. Then the passenger side is wide open to clean up.

No. The cowl is easy to take off. The weather stripping may be on the way of the screws, but if you open the hood there's screws holding the cowl on and I believe one under each fender. Then it just comes right up. When I had my 69 apart for restoration I stuck a shop vac hose all the way in. I'll see if I have pictures.

If it's anything like my original air, it pulls air from the passenger side cowl vent. The vent is that between the hood and front windshield. Lots of leaves get in there.

Where'd you find nos units? I guess I should try installing my original one, I only changed out because I changed out everything on the car. Didn't think it'd be crap lol

So I took the engine apart, cleaned and put new gaskets awhile ago (only 60k original miles) and installed a new aluminum radiator, biggest I could fine at 2 cores of 1" each. Also a new aluminum high flow water pump. Well the other day I took it on a short drive to try and stress test things. When idling my temp gauge would slowly go up to just above 3/4 and when I'd start driving or hit the gas it'd drop below 3/4 Long story short, I looked up online that the gauges and senders arnt always accurate and to heat the engine up with the radiator cap off and use a thermometer to check, turns out 1/2 on the gauge was 155F degrees and 3/4 was 170F degrees and 185F was just over 3/4. My thermo is a 185 and it's a 351w. With ac and power steering. I was wondering what everyone else has been doing to get a more accurate reading, if it's over 3/4 just to hit the 185 then how could I tell when it gets over 195? Just want for the gauge to start spinning like a top? Haha

Hi guys. This is my first post, but I've followed thus website for a long time. I couldn't find any how to wrap these things, I could only find what material to use so I figured I'd post this and hopefully help someone. Below is a before and after. Things you'll need: 3m "di-noc" (marine teak matched my origianl 69 woodgrain) Sharp razor blades Scissors Blow dryer or heat gun (be careful with the heat gun) Okay let's get started. So my original woodgrain was old, sun bleached and bubbling. So it's time to replace. Step 1: removing old woodgrain Picture 1 To remove the old woodgrain I just used a grinder with sanding disk. Just took it all the way down to the metal, you can go hard on it just make sure you smooth it all out at the end, if you leave gouges or chunks left on there it'll show through your new woodgrain. Step 2: sealing the metal to preserve Picture 2 I sprayed a layer of primer and some black enamel on mine just to seal in the wood and make sure the metal will last if moisture gets under the woodgrain Step 3: applying new woodgrain Picture 3 Now this stuff is pretty forgiving, make sure you let the material get to AT LEAST room temperature so it's workable. Cut material to about the size of the panel leaving at least half and inch to one inch overhang. This will be used to make a solid woodgrain that will not peel off easily once finished. I found that by removing all of the wax paper and starting from the top, setting the material onto the piece. And begin working downwards while pressing out most creases. Because the panels are concave you have to work the paper down, one thing I learned was this stuff is very workable. Specially if you have ever someone using the blow drying on medium heat or heat gun on low about 2 feet away. It'll get very soft and workable. Once you notice it geto soft get heat off of it immediately or you risk burning it. Once warmed up it'll stick very easily and once stuck it'll cool into a solid hold so try and get it as close as possible, once you work it all the way down you can use the heat again very lightly and press out wrinkles. You can use a credit card or your fingers. Just leave the paper dangling off the edges like picture 3 Step 4: folding over the edge Picture 4 In picture 4 you can see how to cut the corners into a fan so you get a smooth corner and no boxy points sticking out. Take your time and go around folding it back. When completely wrapped around the back heat up the back to get a solid hold from the adhesive. Step 5: cutting holes Picture 5 In picture 5 you want to cut a plus sign in the middle of the circle. Make sure to leave at least a half inch from the edge so it'll cover the inset. Cut a circle out of the center. (Picture 6) next, This part requires heating the material and pushing it inwards, it may come undone due to tension, that's okay just try to push all the way around the circle, flip the panel over and fan the edges and fold over, heat again to solidify the adhesive. Pretty much for anything you can figure it out from there. I hope you understood all of this, lots of info, some thing that a video would be better but I didn't record myself doing this.