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BillC last won the day on October 28 2016

BillC had the most liked content!

About BillC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Florida and Maine
  • Interests
    Flying my Mooney Ovation, driving my '70 428CJ but most important, spending time and playing with my Australian Cattle dog, Kora.

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  1. If your interested, I can send more photos to you directly. Please contact me at billciommo@hotmail.com Thanks, Bill
  2. I’m selling my 1970 Mach1 428CJ. Yellow with black interior, Factory AC, Auto, PS, Power disc brakes with new calipers and master cylinder, sport seats, fold down rear seat, tach, Factory tinted windows, rear louver with spoiler, etc, etc. 77,100 miles.Accident history in 1988 to left rear quarter professionally repaired. Always a California car until I bought it last year. $49500 or best offer. Car is located in Spring Hill, Florida.
  3. Sorry to hear that. Not sure if it's the same guy but no cigarette smell on the tach anyway.
  4. UPDATE....got the tach back from the Tachman.com and got it installed. It works great! As it turns out he did not convert it to a three wire. Instead he said the tach was in great shape, except for the part needed, so he returned it to the original wiring plug. The overhaul is guaranteed for three years and he said the electrical components made today will outlast me. I hope so.
  5. I did get the shop manuals and wiring diagrams. But I will join the 428 Cobra Jet registry. Thanks for the info. Bill
  6. Thanks for the reply. From what I understand so far it appears that the 3 wire conversion allows me to run the RED wire to positive, the BLACK wire to a ground, and the GREEN wire is run through the firewall to the negative (-) side of the coil. I must also cut the original RED and BLACK wire and twist them together just the way I found it. Does this seem like the correct wiring connections to you? Thanks again, Bill
  7. Thanks Mach1 and 1969_Mach1, I packed up the tach and shipped it off this morning to be converted to three wire. I'm not too shiny with electrical wiring but I'm told it's not difficult to do. I hope so. Anyway thanks very much for the help. I'll write back in two weeks when the tach comes back and let you all know how it's going.
  8. Thanks for the reply Mach, Do you think the 69 REAL schematic is the same as my 70 as far as the tach is concerned? Thanks, Bill
  9. My 70 Mach1 428CJ's in dash tach didn't work when I bought the car. When I removed the instrument panel to replace the printed circuit and bulbs I found the tach wires (red and black) were cut. The red and black wires going to the firewall were stripped and twisted together. Once I soldered the cut wires back together the way they should be, I tried to start the car without the tach plugged into the connector. It wouldn't start. I used a jumper lead to connect the red and black wires again, the way I found it, and it fires right up. I've heard that something inside the tach can go bad and leave you stranded on the road. If this is true, I think someone, instead of fixing the tach, just twisted the wires together and put the panel back together. My question is...does this sound like the problem? Can something inside the tach go bad and leave you stranded? Can you recommend a repair company to check/ repair the tach? BTW, this car has an automatic trans and AC if that matters. Thank you, Bill
  10. Thank you Vic for taking the time to do this. I got the new OEM switch installed and it's working great. Thanks again, Bill
  11. OK....It's confession time. I had assumed the collar and washers were a necessary part of the tilt system since they were installed when I got the car. They are not. A mechanic friend of mine came over and screwed in the lever and operated the tilt normally! Because it is a new turn signal switch and still very stiff, I was afraid to put too much pressure on it to get the tilt to work. He wasn't afraid. I thought I would break the lever off inside the switch so I went easy. He did not. Long story short, the tilt works fine. I'll probably never know why the previous owner(s) put the collar and washers on the lever. The old switch tilt worked fine. Anyway, sorry to bother you guys with this. It was my fault and I'm glad it had a happy ending. Bill
  12. It looks like the turn signal lever is the same for tilt or not. It's as though the turn signal switch is not seated down far enough to actuate the tilt mechanism without using the collar. I got the car like this and just replaced the turn signal switch. Now I have the same problem the previous installer had. The switch is screwed in tight as far as it will go and I also noticed that the turn signal lever is difficult to screw in because the switch doesn't seem to be down far enough. That appears to be the reason a collar was added to the lever...to make up the difference. Is that as clear as mud? Would anyone have an exploded diagram of the tilt column so I can see what is up with this thing? Thanks, Bill
  13. Hey guys, I have a 70 Mach 1 with a tilt column. When replacing the turn signal switch I removed the turn signal lever and found someone had made up a plastic collar with two washers that go over the lever where it actuates the tilt. Without the collar in place the tilt won't work. My question is, is there a turn signal lever just for the tilt column or is there something else wrong. I bought the shop manuals but they don't show anything. Thanks for any insight. Bill
  14. r I did buy all 5 of the Shop Manuals from CJPony. Very little assembly info for the Mustang. Each manual has twelve different Ford models in them leaving little room for the Mustang info. It sounds like the Ford Assembly manuals are the best choice followed by the Osborn(because of the watermark) Thanks, Bill
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