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  1. Today
  2. Any chance you can post a picture of how you mounted the fans? I plan to do this now and would love some ideas I couldn't decide on how to run my wiring but since I figured that out, I want to mount the fans and wire them up. Thanks man
  3. Yesterday
  4. As far as headlights go, simply adding a couple of relays to them will do wonders. It'll also reduce the chances of an electrical far.
  5. As most everyone has mentioned, the under hood stuff is most likely to be degraded. If you intend using Alloy Metal Products, then call NPD and see what harnesses you would need under the hood for your model and engine, then decide which you want to do, and the order to do them. Since they plug into one another, you could do them one at a time. For my Mach with a 351w there is; Wire assembly engine gauge feed, alternator feed, wiper motor repair harness, engine ground, wire & plug headlight extension, wire loom firewall to headlight (this is the main under hood harness), wiring harness turn indicator (for the hood scoop signals). I believe there are four others, but they are inside the cabin or trunk.
  6. thank you. i always thought of myself as a bad ass 6'2", 165 lb biker dude (well bicycler anyways....lol). the falcon steers easier, brakes better, shifts easier and has an easier clutch than the mustang. the falcon rides flat around the corners, but i don't think that means it handles the corners better. i'm pretty certain if i pushed the falcon at all around the corners that it would be in the ditch. it has no front sway bar and has a rear four link that is inherently in bind on roll or a single side bump. but, i really don't have any interest in finding the limits on the corners of these cars on the street. i will say the mustangs leaf springs with a detroit locker give an interesting feel when in and out of the throttle. great for giving people rides. the falcon rear end is extremely well behaved. i'm sure the 4-link/panhard is the primary reason. maybe the helical differential helps too. the falcon seats are considerably different as compared to the mach 1 seats. the clutch in the falcon (Ram Force 10.5" dual sintered iron disc) is slipping bad. and that is with the throttle heavily limited (probably limited to flow about 60%). Mccleod just finished balancing an RXT1200 assembly and should be here in a few days. i hope that resolves that issue and i can get at least a hit or two at the dragstrip this fall.
  7. Last week
  8. Wow, thanks everyone for the feedback. I appreciate it. Also appreciate everyone's recommendations for Randy/Midlife. Speaking of Midlife, your reputation is legendary. Appreciate the information and the help. Just to make sure there's no confusion, I've been driving the car for the last 3 years. I've only had a garage for the last 4 months, which is why I'm looking into working on it much more since I have the benefit of the space now. I just figured it'd be good to get in there and replace everything as an opportunity to learn about the car more. But the adage of "if it's not broke, don't fix it" is true. Would it be better to just pick a smaller project, like upgrading the headlights, and work with the current wiring as an opportunity to learn about the car and wiring in general?
  9. The wiring itself doesn't degrade, except in the engine compartment under intense heat and owner butchering. If the insulation is brittle there, time to simply replace it with reproductions. Most of the problems with wiring is due to corrosion at connections, particularly the fuse box. About 20% of all pins need re-crimping and molded connectors need the wires pulled/tugged away from the connector to "tighten" the molded crimps. For tail-lights, corrosion is the biggest problem as well as the need to recrimp any ground lugs. The large fraction of my work deals with PO butchery and bringing that back to stock configuration. If a wire gets overloaded and burned, chances are poor that the harness can be refurbished; it all depends upon the particular wire and how extensive throughout the harness the issue extends. Any power lines that are burned means you need to replace the harness.
  10. Did my 1965 El Camino a few years ago with an updated harness from American auto wire. Previous owners really butchered the wiring. Had some smoke from under the dash while coming back from the Syracuse nationals and made up my mind. Took it in small batches. American auto wire was there on the phone whenever the paperwork didn’t make sense. Last summer the wipers stopped and they helped me through emails and calls. It is a big step all together. But easily manageable in small tasks. I’d do it again. But I had the car for about 10 years before that happened. Drive it first. Enjoy the experience
  11. Midlife (Randy) will tell you that the under hood harness has taken a beating from heat and weather and he won't refurbish that, but any of the others he will freshen-up. No one knows these harnesses better than Randy. There is a full car schematic for a 69, and wire diagram, how to fix the instrument panel, and how the alternator works in the "How to's" section, if you are so inclined.
  12. Listen to Brian and drive it for awhile and enjoy it. Along the way, you can sort other smaller issues you may have. Usually (if not molested) the wires under the hood take a beating due to heat, check your wires to see of the insulation is hard and brittle. Midlife restored harness is a good option if you need replacement. If you add stuff that draws more current than factory, you should use relays triggered by factory wiring.
  13. Well I certainly hope it's not your last post. What an outstanding job you do. With the different suspension, how does the Falcon ride compared to the 69 Mach 1? You live in a gorgeous part of the country. With a couple of good customers you could make some serious cash building top shelf cars. The talent here on this forum is astonishing. And by the way, you look nothing like what I imagined. I figured you were a hard ass looking special forces kind of guy. Not that what I saw was a bad thing. Kudos brother.
  14. I'll add a third; get your harness refurbished by Randy at Midlife. Present company included, you won't find a nicer, more honest guy on the web. http://midlifeharness.com/ Phone Number: 850-624-7528
  15. " if it ain't broke...don't fix it. This is a project (wiring) that could keep your car in the garage for some time. Drive the car for a bit . You will find more rewarding projects to take your time and money. Brian
  16. last post. i shot a little video in car and also from underneath of the rear suspension.
  17. There are two schools of thought on wiring 1) Use stock OEM type harnesses from a company like Alloy Metal Products that are available from a vendor like National Parts Depot. This will have a standard fuse panel and exactly match the Ford authorized wire diagrams. The advantage here is that anyone who has a standard wire diagram can help you, or fix the car. 2) Use an aftermarket harness like available from Painless, which will use the new style fuses and incorporate some relays (neither of which is available in option 1). The disadvantage is that you can only get help from that company or someone else that has their product and has their wire diagram. Personally I will stick with the OEM harnesses and add to them as needed- but I will make a wire diagram showing the additions for the next guy that ends up with the car (and so I remember what I did). You will never learn if you don't try. It isn't rocket science, but it isn't for everyone.
  18. Hi everyone, As mentioned in my previous thread, I've just started working on my car now that I have a garage. Everything's working fine, but I was considering having my next project be wiring. I came hear to ask - given my current level of expertise - if I'm insane to be taking on a task like this so soon. The reasons I considered doing wiring next are a few. First, besides small wiring upgrades for dash components that failed or when I upgraded the AC to Vintage Air (all done by my mechanic), the wiring hasn't been touched and (to my knowledge) is stock. At some point, those wires are gonna fail, and I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing the car's got brand new wiring across the board; wiring I installed and know how to troubleshoot. More importantly, I felt like this would be a good project to really learn my car. I'm gonna have to go through every area and take apart / reinstall the dash, doors, trunk, etc. If I can pull this off, I feel like sky's the limit. There were some upgrades I considered in the future primarily for safety reasons (LED headlights, maybe Dakota Digital Dash) and figured this would be a springboard for when I'm ready to undertake those projects. All opinions/advice appreciated. Thank you.
  19. Thanks for the extra advice aslanefe. I'll definitely do it that way when continuing to tweak. I noticed that even the slightest of distributor turns yielded a big difference, so going two degrees at a time makes sense.
  20. Guessing you are probably right about the staples ... that would make sense. I should have a spare set of ducts at home that I could check but I'm out of town at the moment. Doug
  21. Thanks Doug for looking, and Terry for the chuckle. I'm probably over thinking it, but I seem to remember removing staples from the hard plastic tubes that secured the flex tube. Champagne problems.
  22. Hello jmlay. Yep! That's exactly what i was looking for. Now i see the routing of the cables through the floor supports. I'll have to check but i believe those cutouts aren't in the supports i welded in. But, from those pics i'm sure i can replicate the locations of those openings. Much appreciated! John
  23. 65 66 is to narrow ,i have found the 1 1/8 front bar to be the best ,start going bigger and it can rip the sway bar mount from the body
  24. Anyone know - 70 sway bar sizes with inline 6 engine? Will 65 or 66 way bays fit 70? Thanks
  25. Just looked through all my pics from when I had my dash apart in 2011 and did not find any with the ducts in place. I don't remember any type of clamps holding the hoses to the plastic pipes though ... pretty sure they were just slip fit and stay in place because they are relatively short and captive between fixed points. Doug
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