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  2. 69ShelbyGT350H

    Does anyone repop the A/C Diffusers

    From under the metal dash and looking over the metal dash with the pad off, you can remove the plastic ducts from the back of the vents. They will pull off the clips toward the front of the car and then slip off the cloth and/or plastic vent tubing. Remove the elbows from the back, out the bottom of the dash. Each vent has 3 Phillips screws on the back side. Using a shorty Phillips screwdriver you have to work blind or use a mirror and you can back them out or totally remove them. If loosened, turn the back mount clockwise while holding the vent against the dash. Once the vent mount cup is off the front of the vent will come out of the metal dash. To re-install, put the 3 screws in each vent a couple of turns. Put the vent into the metal dash and then the vent cup in the back, sliding the cup over the 3 screws. Rotate the vent cup to lock it over the 3 screws and then tighten the Phillips screws. Attach the elbows to the ducting and then press back onto the vents. I just had to take my vents back out after mounting the metal dash on the car as I had not installed the dash wiring first. Wiring needs to go first. The rear harness to dash harness attaches behind the drivers side A/C vent, so it had to come out. The passenger door wiring comes out behind the passenger A/C vent, it is next for me.
  3. barnett468

    tranny swap

    You could call astro and ask them about the trans below and any other T5 models they might suggest. Ask them if this trans uses their own cases or the original case. The t5's have a slightly "notchy" feel when they are shifted and you can ask if if these feel just like a stock one or shift smoother as well. These will have a little whine to them because of the gear style but it is not obnoxious and will be loudest in the lower gears, so at cruising speeds, it's barely noticeable. I would not use a cable and I also prefer the original style pressure plates. Mcleod now has a line of oem style pressure plates with less pressure than the race ones they sell, so one can actually push the clutch pedal in with 1 foot but you will probably have to call them and tell them what pressure you want if you want one as I haven't seen them in their online listings for the last few years. https://astroperformance.com/product/575-torque-ford-a-5-transmission-2/
  4. panteramatt

    tranny swap

    Car is just a street car. Has a mild 351w but will have a 408w with around 550 fwhp eventually.
  5. Today
  6. barnett468

    tranny swap

    What is your intended use for the car? What size engine? How much hp? I only use the t5 with the world class model gear ratio because 1st gear in the non world class trans is too low for most peoples liking that i have dealt with including mine.
  7. BuckeyeDemon

    tranny swap

    tunnel mods depend on the trans chosen and what you want for a driveline setup. dimensionally the two transmissions are different so it won't be a straight swap.
  8. barnett468

    soft brake pedal

    Why did you change the brake hoses? Is the pedal noticeably less soft then before you changed the brake hoses? Is your power booster working? Is there any sign of brake fluid on the booster just below the master cylinder? Is your brake light on in the dash? Did you check to see if the piston in the combo valve is centered? Did you pull the boots back on the rear wheel cylinders to see it there is fluid in them? No, this is not normal. The pedal should not depress more than around 1/3rd of the way with the engine running. If the power booster was replaced, the adjustment of the rod inside of it that depresses the piston in the master may be incorrect and to large. With the engine off, push on the pedal moderately hard and hold the pressure on it for at least 1 minute and see if the pedal continues to slowly go to the floor. Next, pump the pedal 5 times and see if it starts getting firmer farther away from the floor. Post all results.
  9. barnett468

    Starting problems

    CHECKING SPARK/COIL This test should be done with the engine cold and again with it at operating temp because the voltage/spark can be weaker when the engine and electrical parts are hot. Other than the methods mentioned, another simple way to determine how weak or strong the spark is, is to park the car in a shaded area, the darker the better, then pull the coil wire out of the distributor then expose the metal end on the wire 1/4" away from any unpainted portion on the engine (a carburetor base stud/nut or valve cover bolt etc usually works) then either have someone turn the engine over for a few seconds, or jump the front post on the starter solenoid to the small post immediately next to it. A small screwdriver usually works for this but try jumping it before you hold the coil wire so you can get used to it as it can be a little hard to do and the sound of the engine turning over with your head 2 feet away from it can be a little unnerving at first. You should easily see at least a decent yellow spark. If the spark is faint and yellow, you likely have a weak coil. If the spark is any shade of blue, it is a strong spark even if it is faint. If you have a stock type coil, and it has at least a decent yellow spark, and you do not have a high compression engine, there is no issue with your spark intensity and it is not causing your particular starting problem.
  10. aslanefe

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    On his post above, Midlife said on one of orange lines near the turn signal connector.
  11. cffisher

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    I hope your wrong as all fuses are good in fuse box. I'll look farther for in line fuse what color wire would it be in?? Thanks
  12. barnett468

    Starting problems

    COLD STARTING PROBLEM Ok, the cold start issue has nothing to do with gas percolating in the carb or vapor lock etc, therefore, a carb spacer will not help that, however, this does not mean that there is not some issue with the carb as well that a spacer can't improve or that a better spark won't help, but the ideal way to approach this is to deal with the biggest issue first which is the cold start issue, and once that is fixed, it may very well automatically improve the hot start issue as well. As far as removing the entire air cleaner goes to see if it starts easier as Brian suggested, also, try to see if the air filter base is interfering with the choke linkage. You can push the gas pedal to the floor once then carefully remove the air cleaner lid without disturbing the air cleaner base then look at the position of the choke butterfly. Next, remove the base and see if the butterfly closes more. Next open the throttle and see if the butterfly closes more. If the butterfly closes more at any time with the base off during your inspection, the base is hitting some part of the choke mechanism, and if it is, it may be possible to modify it slightly so it does not. If it is not possible to modify it, you might get enough clearance by installing a spacer between the air cleaner base and the carb. Most auto shops sell them and there re typically 2 - 3 different heights in the package. I would start with the lowest height if you do that. You will also have to be mindful of clearance between the air cleaner lid and bottom of the hood as it can be very closer on some set ups. HOT STARTING PROBLEM At least part of this problem could be caused by a few different things and possibly a combination of them. Below are just a few. Too much initial timing. Weak starter. If you have headers the starter may be getting heat soaked, in which case a starter heat blanket will reduce the problem. Weak battery or a low amp battery. Weak spark. Fuel level in carb too high. Fuel in carb getting overly hot which can cause some of it to be forced out of the carb into the engine. As 69 mach 1 mentioned, a "thermal" (non metallic) spacer will typically reduce this problem, however, lowering the float level can also reduce this problem. If the fuel in the carb is getting hotter than "normal" then my preference is to install a spacer. however, if you are using ethanol fuel, the float level in the carb should be set slightly lower than the factory recommended setting because ethanol "expands" more than straight gasoline when it gets hot.
  13. Brian Conway

    Starting problems

    Snapping Blue spark will tell you a lot about the coil and is easy to check. Brian
  14. Thin Lizzy

    Starting problems

    Thanks for the info. I'll check the coil. I've found if I press the accelerator down to the floor a few times before starting it, it seems to start better. Like after the 7th or 8th attempt.
  15. det0326

    soft brake pedal

    did you replace the rear drum shoes? if so did you adjust them out properly? And welcome to the forum.
  16. Mountaineerfan

    Does anyone repop the A/C Diffusers

    How did you get the vents out? I currently am replacing the dash pad, and figured I should do this while the pad is off.
  17. fvike

    soft brake pedal

    Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it?
  18. Rindelmach1

    soft brake pedal

    Hey guys, my 69 mach has original front discs and rear drums. recently i changed all 3 brake hoses and MC which improved the braking, however, the brake pedal is still soft. I'm pretty I bleed them correctly and use the autocraft brake bleeding kit. If I step on the pedal hard enough, I can pus it all the way down. I would say I would have to push the pedal to about 70% of the distance until it starts slowing the car down. Is this normal for a mach 1 and are there any other adjustments I should do? I do not see any leaks in the brake lines.
  19. MAC390

    I can't beleive it hasn't been stolen yet

    Nice pic, your car looks great. The styling on these cars were just fantastic , streets ahead of the opposition.
  20. Viperpete

    Wheels

    Anyone got a decent set of Magnum 500's they would want to either sell or trade me for? Have these to trade, very good condition.
  21. danno

    Starting problems

    I'm with 69 Mach. I would never believe it until it happened to me, but it was a coil issue. Check for spark, it is an easy thing to verify. If it has spark, then carb. I am not a carb guy, I have a 2100 in my 302. Very simple.
  22. danno

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    What are we doing on a perfect Saturday night wondering about the turn signal wires? At least in Minneapolis it is a nice night, but I happen to be home with not much more to do. I could understand it to be hot in Florida, but in San Diego it must also be a nice night? From what I understand, there is a fuse in the fuse block for turn signals. It also controls other things.
  23. Brian Conway

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    FWIW... On a 69 Mustang the turn signals won't work if they are not installed. So if yours are just hanging loose the installation screws provide the needed ground. Brian
  24. danno

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    Does this fuse only exist in 1970 models? I do not remember it in a 69.
  25. Yesterday
  26. Midlife

    1970 Cougar turn signals

    IIRC, there is an in-line fuse on one of the orange lines near the turn signal connector.
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