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  3. BSWOR you should consider pinning this post also. Since completing my 1969 Mach1 Schematic (see A REAL Schematic) I have seen a lot of confusion about 1970 turn and marker lights. I didn't know they were different than the 69, but they sounded interesting so I investigated to see if I wanted to upgrade. After reviewing the circuit I decided to leave well enough alone, but hopefully the attached three pages will help explain their operation for those poor souls with 70s ;) 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 1.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 2.pdf 1970 MUSTANG EXTERIOR LIGHTS PAGE 3.pdf
  4. The dash looks good. I like it more so than the wrinkle. Nice work.
  5. Very nice update, thanks Matt.
  6. If the temperature dropped immediately as soon as you shut off your lights, then it is possible that there is a ground issue. Somehow ( I cannot imagine it) but if the headlights use the same ground return as the temperature gauge, that could explain it. More current in this ground wire (because the headlights are on) means more of a voltage drop in the ground. A higher voltage drop look to the temp gauge like a higher temperature. Try it during the day, turn on your lights and see if the temperature goes up when they are on and down when they are off. It is also possible to have a drop in your battery voltage when the lights are on that is effecting your temp gauge, but that is a real stretch. You might put an accurate voltmeter ( not the voltmeter you might have on your instrument panel) on your battery while driving to verify it is ok.
  7. Worked this tome, Thanks again.
  8. I'm no expert by any definition but I had this same problem with a Holley blue pump in a $#@vy truck. I guess my feed wires weren't big enough to support the pump causing it to overheat and shut down. I think having the "dead headed" pressure regulator didnt help matters either. Ran a 12 gauge wire and relay and no problems since. Bo
  9. A bit of good news in the follow up: http://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/ozarks/2017/07/21/ninos-classic-mustang-replaced-family-says-support-well-wishes-almost-overwhelming/499051001/
  10. Looks great, the engine looks neat.
  11. End of day 35. Painted the dash in semi-gloss black it it looks pretty good. Did some more tidying up of the engine. I like the wrinkle black rockers. Fitted the steering rack and a 1 1/8 sway bar. Looking good to have it driving on the weekend. Optimistic I know but if I have to do a few all nighters I will.
  12. Thanks for that. I will keep that in mind. I painted it in semi-gloss black today and it looks pretty good. Once everything is back together I will get a better picture of what it will look like.
  13. Thanks for the suggestions. I went down the wrinkle black path and it looks great.
  14. Well, he is crying his eyes out... He intended to have it completely rebuilt, but facing the amount of work and associated cost, he then started to think about a Dynacorn body, but it would be near impossible to register it so now, he is thinking about parting it out to sell what's sellable and scrap the rest...
  15. And ebay's buyer protection plan is a farce.
  16. I wish i still had the pics of the 67 convert that was bought off Ebay a few years back ,they paid somthing like 11,000 for it ,it broke in half setting on my car trailer after the guy gave it to me to haul off.I will have to see if i can find the pics ,it was the same as that red one above
  17. Could it be lights using amps and less amps to the fans?
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  19. Try using the S (stator) lug on the alternator: it's only hot when the alternator is turning. For the flamethrower, use the coil lead as the relay trigger, or find the green/red wire that goes to the voltage regulator and use that for the coil. You can use that same wire for the electric choke. It's only hot when the key is in RUN position.
  20. Guillaume: those pictures are incredible and a crying shame. I imagine the new owner had a heart attack when he realized what he really had.
  21. FYI: If you ultimately find its not fuel related, the description of your issue fits the following condition that is not fuel related. With some hydraulic lifters at high RPM they will pump up and start to hold the valves slightly open. When the engine returns to an idle the engine will either run rough (missing) or completely die if enough lifters have pumped up. Let the engine sit for 15-20 minutes for the lifters to bleed back down and the motor will run fine again. I've seen it happen many times. Lastly, I haven't read many good reviews for Holley's external electric fuel pumps. External fuel pumps in general are not as good as an internal fuel pump. The advantage of the internal fuel pumps is they are submerged in the cool fuel so they operate at cooler temps, thus, last longer. That is why on late model EFI cars and trucks, people that drive mostly with their fuel tanks having low fuel levels ultimately shorten the life of the fuel pump.
  22. Tank was full when this happened, I wasn't really turning any high g turns, just doing some hard pulls. Just this morning I went to drive around and the pump turned off and on twice. so I'm either thinking it's a bad bump | electrical. I did record a video it when I brought it home, it was making this abnormal high pitched noise, like a belt screeching and also another video after where the pump wasn't making that noise after the car was parked for a few hours, but you can faintly hear a light whistle noise. at this point I'm ready to go with another fuel pump & looking at the summit reviews, seems this pump is problematic. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8zVFDO4xs-MM2lSVVBPZWU5cW8/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8zVFDO4xs-MREgtdDJfcDh6Vlk/view?usp=sharing
  23. I think I've asked these questions before but it was a long time ago and I can't find it. When I took my car apart there was some strange wiring splices in my harnesses for the electric choke. I replaced the gauge harness that connects to the oil pressure, temperature, and coil. There are no splices in it now. 1. Where do I connect my carb's electric choke so that it only gets power in the key's run position? After I get the car running with points and the stock coil I will replace them with a pertronix distributor and flamethrower coil. I know I need to bypass the pink resistor wire in the ignition. I've heard of some people using a relay that is activated by the pink wire to pass 12V to the coil. 2. What is the best way to connect the flamethrower coil to 12V? Thanks
  24. Unfortunately, most inspectors don't even know how to tell if a car has had body work or not. Most just want their $350.00 for doing nothing other then taking photos.
  25. Find a place where they have a vibratory polishing machine. I had it done to a set of aluminum wheels I had. They came back better than new.
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