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Cool tip. I did not know that book existed.
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They are painted body color
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These are normally spot welded and leaded ,but i have had a couple of cars that they were simply held on with philips head screws ,i would screw them in place but seal between them and the body
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I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light. For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time. It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings. It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive. This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is. In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long. I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
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Oh cool, send some pics of that
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Oh, that’s very interesting with your rev limiter, good job troubleshooting that
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Installed my VHX Dash LED dimmer control. This goes into the VHX box, and allows you to dim your dash lights and clock light at night.
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In case you are wondering how to get "keyed" power into the engine compartment, see below. You need power that is on in "Start and ON". The yellow shows the resistor wire going through the firewall, but I'm assuming you don't want to run another wire through the firewall. There is also a line that goes to the voltage regulator. The non-tach car looks like below. This line can't drive a coil, it's too much amperage, but you can add a relay that get it's power directly from the battery. Note that the example on the right with the starter solenoid does not work in your case.
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I did a similar thing to the r/s Mach-1 dash panel. I removed the woodgrain applique & painted the dash panel satin black to match the black gauge cluster panel.
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Vic, did you ever post pics of the other door handles you wanted to sell? Mike.
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I had an issue with the Pertronix III and the rev limiter - Once I turned it off, everything worked fine.
- Last week
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As I continue to install my quarter windows on my 70, I found the two quarter window drip rails were loose and didn't get painted with the car. Are these typically painted? I found a photo on here showing where they are installed and are painted, but it looks like they be covered by the boomerang trim molding. (I am still waiting on those so can't verify if they do cover it). The two channels I have: Here is the example I am using as a "go-by".
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Cobra Jet Ram Air Patent.pdf
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Found this in my archives. Shows the original non-shaker ram-air set up, with just the Mach 1 style hood scoop feeding the air cleaner.... Cobra Jet Ram Air Patent.pdf
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I am pretty sure you can use the dash without the tabs. Vic
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1969 351W block. Who will sell me a mix and match stroker kit?
Vicfreg replied to BigDuke6's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Big Duke - How did this work out? Do you have enough clearance with the flat top pistons? Also, the Air Gap is a tall intake manifold. If you are going to run a Shaker Hood, that might be too tall to close the hood properly with the Shaker. I see that you are from Germany. I used to spend a lot of time in Erlangen doing some work with Siemens. Vic -
Yes choke is open seems lean have tried two carbs and also new fuel pump.
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I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68. They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel. I used the part number for the GT suspension. The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing. I have Bilsteins. Did the same on my '70 convertible. One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding. I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air. Big mistake. I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine. But the car did ride and handle funny. I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....
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Confirm the choke is opening? Any evidence of running rich or lean? I agree about bypassing the resistor wire.
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I was trying to find my Pertronix instructions, but I remember ditching the pink wire as there was only like 9 volts going to the coil, and I am pretty sure that it needs 12 volts. Not sure why that would cause these intermittent problems. Good luck. Sounds like a really nice car. Vic
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I will check that out. Thanks
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Oh, ok. Sounds like you have covered all the bases. Not sure what else to check.
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New ignition switch and I have tried two original coils also using one of the pointless distributors. It acts like it is a fuel issue. Never seen this in my 50 years of doing this. I have always considered the 351C a boat anchor but I really want this to work. The car was 351C 4 speed Factory A/C tilt wheel AM/FM 8 track power steering power brakes trac loc car. The wiring was original and like new as it was out of the car in a box for 20 years (so I was told). Still has most of the ford tags on it. And yes 30 minutes or less it stumbles and dies.
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Ok. If you use the pointless systems, and the lower resistance coil, you probably need to bypass the pink wire so you get 12volts to the coil. I did this on my '68.
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New ignition switch and I have tried two original coils also using one of the pointless distributors. It acts like it is a fuel issue. Never seen this in my 50 years of doing this. I have always considered the 351C a boat anchor but I really want this to work. The car was 351C 4 speed Factory A/C tilt wheel AM/FM 8 track power steering power brakes trac loc car. The wiring was original and like new as it was out of the car in a box for 20 years (so I was told). Still has most of the ford tags on it.
