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  1. Today
  2. Perhaps the biggest problem with the PA Performance alternator (besides their faulty instructions) is that it is unique and needs their special regulator. If you break down on the road you can't go to the local auto parts store and get a new one, because your wiring won't match. Here is a look at a Ford type 3G that you can get from AutoZone or what have you. This is shown in a 68. I have checked 66,68,69, and 70, and they are all "electrically" the same in the charging system and power wires. That isn't to say that the colors don't change, or the wire numbers, or the wires may not be connected in exactly the same spot- but the electrons go to the same places. This is a stock 68: Here it is with a Ford type 3G. The ammeter won't work and must be replaced by a voltmeter (on 654 Y if you like). The line that runs to "I" has an idiot light and a resistor. The light is optional. The resistor may be anything from 500-560 ohms 1/2w. Some guys leave it out and wire it direct to I with no light or resistor. This works BUT if you leave the key on with the engine off the alternator will still be on and it could cook your internal regulator. Heck, even with the resistor it may- there doesn't seem to be any consensus. The size of the mega fuse and the gauge wire is dependent on the size alternator you get. There is a problem with circuit this that I will discuss later. This one shows what happens if you get a short on one of the main power lines- in this case to 25 BK/O has been frayed or pinched and is connected directly to chassis. Wires 38A, 37, and 25 are all 12ga wires that turn into fuses and melt. This is the best approach, prevents melting your main harness, and is what Ford finally did in 1970. Its easy and since you are in there anyway, just add a 14ga fuse link or fuse, and that will melt instead of your harness. This chart shows Ford 1G, 2G, and 3G alternator outputs. Since the 2G is only slightly better than the 60A 1G and it was plagued with recalls for fires, I wouldn't recommend it. More isn't always better and if you want to keep the stock look with V belts then go with the 95A. It will still need two V belts (you can extend the next belt forward to make it work) and you won't have to go with a serpentine system that requires electric radiator fans that suck up another 20 amps. Choose wisely.
  3. You can get the caulk strip at any RV supplier.
  4. Buy in for a dealer I think is now 5,000. They keep raising it.
  5. Oh we've been asked, but we know nothing would get done with camera men following us around LOL.
  6. Here's his website. There's a link to find a retailer near you. I see it's sold everywhere including Amazon https://www.dcmustang.com/index.html
  7. You got it right. I just work on weekends when I am not racing. Laid under the car for the first time since surgery on the rotator cuff good therapy. I had saw that some where, when we drop the engine in I will look for it. thanks
  8. Bolted in the parts today not sure about the rack mounts may change that a little. Sort of looks high. Going to make some gussets to strengthen the back of the lower A arms.
  9. I might have extra I can send you. I did mine and had a ton left over.
  10. where do you buy the Daniel Carpenter?
  11. I did purchase just the mirror glass and followed the video from WCCC. I has worked our great. I was able to significantly tighten up the loose mirror. We'll see how it works over time but this was a well done suggestion and did save me a few dollars. For $17 to buy the mirror this was a great idea.
  12. It's been a shade over a month and the car is not finished? How are you ever going to get the Reality TV gig? I mean, really...
  13. Nice green it looks good.
  14. Yesterday
  15. I have one door set of door hinge backing plates with the dog point fasteners. Not bad shape. I will ship if you pay the shipping cost. I believe them to be orginal parts and fasteners. Message me if interested.
  16. I have set of what I believe are OEM rear lap belts. They have numbers stamped on the metal brackets. I dont see a Ford part number. They are not in great shape. But my alternative is to chuck them. Just pay for shipping and I send them. Message me if interested.
  17. I have set of what I believe are OEM rear lap belts. They have numbers stamped on the metal brackets. I dont see a Ford part number. They are not in great shape. But my alternative is to chuck them. Just pay for shipping and I send them. Message me if interested.
  18. Last week
  19. I found the stamping on the side of the carb with the size. All autolites have it stamped on the side. That makes it easy, nothing to measure. For 30 years I have been running with a 1.23, and that could be the problem with poor gas mileage and overheating. I still have the 1.14 that was removed 30 years ago, I will rebuild it and put it back on. The jets with the 1.23 were 50F, I will insure the 1.14 has the correct jets. If this fixes it, it is great knowledge for others. All 2100 carbs are not the same, there are probably a hundred differences. Venturi and primary jets are the largest hidden difference. Thanks, I will follow up with results. I want this fixed!
  20. We don't have the time. The owners are waiting for us to complete it so they can get married :)
  21. The venturi (not the boosters) is the hour glass shaped portion inside the main body. The specified dimension is the smallest diameter portion of the venturi. That's the location of maximum air velocity as it passes through the carb. You might have to get creative to find a way to measure it.
  22. May 16, 1969 - Raven Black with Black interior with 302, 3 speed, now Red on Black with 302, 5 speed in Australia
  23. It's not too late, you have not painted it yet....
  24. It certainly does change the look.
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