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  3. He's the Bee's Knees as well. He's the uncle in the family that everyone warns you about: somebody a lot like you and me...
  4. If you measure from the car body windscreen opening to the windscreen then that will tell you the depth that the glass need to settle to into the opening, then measure to the depth minus the thickness of the windscreen and that will tell you the thickness of the spacers you need.
  5. I replaced the whole front suspension. Some Klutz had put in 2 different height spindles and then spaced the arms to make it fit. It started out as a squeaking ball joint that needed greasing, ended up being a total rebuild. Lucky for us Down Here we have Falcons for donor cars that are plentiful. So I took the front out of a 1991 model with rubber bushes on the top arms and disc stub axles. Sand blasted them, painted chassis black, put in new ball joints, lowered front springs and a 1 1/8" sway bar. Used polyurethane bushes throughout (only because they were cheaper than OEM rubber). At the same time I put 1/8" spacers in the front of the top arm bolts to give it castor and used local KMAC camber bolts to give it camber. Replaced some ordinary wheel bearings too. Drove it first time yesterday. Seems to steer slightly better - I think the PS box is a bit wobbly - and turns nicer. Sure has some camber on it, it needs a wheel alignment. Sits about 1" above the 15" wheel which is disappointing. I had hoped to get the tyre at least level with the guard but that may still happen once the springs settle. At least it's a job that is done and I don't need to worry about it.
  6. Thanks. My vintage air harness came with the terminals preinstalled so there’s no way they will fit. The plastic connector is larger than the hole provided. I can unpin them but is a pain. The whole kit has been a pain. It must have been built on a Friday at quitting time because none of the brackets fit properly and had to be adjusted. Their quality control is extremely poor.
  7. I had one installed in my 69 Shelby & 1960 Eldorado & it works well. A great Caddy mechanic told me to install an alum radiator so it blows cooler. I’m in MIA so it’s hot as hell here too April - Nov
  8. RPM

    1968 Cougar

    Dang! Pretty stout.
  9. Finding these settings blocks may be difficult, I've had them for over 20 years.
  10. It already is at the other end of the black wire.
  11. You should use the same Amp fuse size as the one in the harness provided. Mine came with a 30A inline breaker. The original yellow wire is 12 or 14 guage so it can handle the load. I did not use the original wires and 14A/30A fuse slot. I had re-purposed the fuse slot and the original yellow heater power wire for my aftermarket power windows which required 30A. I ran the AC wires provided thru the hole provided in the block out plate to the battery. They were plenty long enough and have no terminators, so no issue passing them thru. I did relocate the compressor relay they wired for under the dash to the engine compartment next to my other headlight relays. Make sure you can access the calibration wire under the dash. Its short and you need to be able to ground it to calibrate the controls.
  12. Been a while since I posted an update but over the last couple of weeks I finished the brake system and now have fully functional brakes. I also installed the under dash portion of my vintage air AC system. This last weekend I installed my lower dash and the wiring harness, along with the steering column and steering wheel.
  13. So I think your saying to add from the violet wire and attach it to that wire?
  14. Thanks for the feedback guys, sounds like NPD is the way to go. Curious about the setting blocks, too - that's a generous offer MTF but is it something I could buy or make easily without using up your stock? I vaguely recall some sort of spacers at the base of the windshield when I put it in years ago but I could be mistaken. Reusable? Did you guys use the butyl strip or urethane? I did the old school butyl back in the day, which I'm inclined to do again but I could be talked into urethane if it makes sense.
  15. I knew we couldn't keep it a secret for long :)
  16. The stroked 390 did 505 on the dyno :)
  17. I have a case of them LOL. if you need some let me know, I'll send them out for free.
  18. Yesterday
  19. Nope, it is a blind circuit and the end doesn't attach to anything. So why is it there? It's attached at the dash cluster plug to the violet resistor wire. That wire is a single strand 28 to 32 gauge wire, too small for the pin to crimp onto the single strand. So...simply add another 18 gauge wire to the resistor wire for mechanical strength at the crimp and Bob's your Uncle! Simply tuck that black wire out of the way and be happy.
  20. Here's your chance to overcome your regrets: buy it now, RR! That's a fair price, although you could probably haggle him down a couple of hundred.
  21. How thick are the rubber setting blocks Rich? And do you make them or buy somewhere?
  22. All the newer windshields are a little bit thinner, but it's not a problem at all. I use rubber setting blocks to keep the windshield at the proper height.
  23. What is the make and model of your carb?
  24. Question for you other guys that have done the vintage air swap. If your using the factory under dash harness did you swap the 14A heater fuse to the 30A ac fuse in the fuse block? The fuse box indicates both for the same hole but would be different amperage depending on heater only or AC equipped. Also how did you get the wires through the firewall to the AC box? The 3/8 hole that comes on the plate is to small for the connector to fit through. Did you enlarge the hole or determ the wires from the plug?
  25. I was thinking gauge ground also but wasn’t sure where it connected at. It’s not the courtesy light, those are already connected.
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