Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Today
  3. Yesterday
  4. Does anyone know what the bolt torque is for the 7/16ths bolts that connect the rag joint to the steering shaft?
  5. went to a local meet with some friends, found this really nice looking 69 gt350, I looked at the side scoops and did not know they were actually functional, gave me an idea to mod a extra set of side scoops I have (Thanks to Ridge Runner)
  6. I put a Hurst Quarter Stick shift in a 1970 Mustang I had years ago. First thing you do is remove the stock shifter and linkage. You'll have to fabricate a metal plate to block off the hole where the stock shifter goes. Then you locate where you want to mount the Hurst shifter on the transmission tunnel. Then you have to drill holes for the mounting screws for the shifter. Then you have to make a hole for the shift cable. You should be able to run the cable through the block off plate you fabricated. Then you have to route your shifter cable. The stock cable I had was way too long and I had a custom shift cable made. Then you have to hook the cable up to the transmission. You need to make sure you have a the correct shifter for your transmission. In other words, make sure you don't have a reverse pattern shifter with a standard pattern valve body transmission or vice versa.
  7. Last week
  8. Got a little bit of me time this morning ,pulled the driver side door off and took a little metal prep to it . Took two shots to get it this clean ,the trick is keeping it wet . While it did remove some fairly heavy surface i still want to lightly hit it with my smaller blasting pot just to get anything out of any crevices or light pits . All in all this would have been a perfect door if someone hadent drilled 4 holes for mounting big mirrors ,a hit with the Miller and they should disappear. These doors have been sitting bare metal for at least 15 years inside my shop.
  9. When ever I start getting pissy about all the new body parts I had to replace on my so called "rust free" car, I just look at some of the projects y'all take on.. Just wow.
  10. How did I know it wouldn't be Mustang related? :) Shouldn't you be busy planning an event?
  11. I'm kinda partial to this grill cover:
  12. I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood. you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.
  13. Check the drill bit size for the threads of the larger bolt. Then check the new alternator's threads to see if you've got enough material to tap for the old bolt.
  14. Hey all- New alternator has a smaller bolt. Alternator bracket could be different from year to year. Trying to figure out a solution
  15. Working on my console. Finalized my switch layout, Made my final templates, this is my production version. I want to order my switches this weekend, should have the council put together in a couple weeks with all the wiring. Installed my VHS clock on the passenger side dash assembly.
  16. Hello, I am having some issues with my turn signals/directionals. Previously, I had installed a hood scoop light harness. It worked for while but one the bulbs kept going out. I would jiggle it a few itmes and it would go back on. I jiggled it too many times and it shorted out. At that point, none of the directionals would work. I realized that I had killed the flasher can. The LED flasher can shorted (wires on the board melted). I have LED tailights (sequential if a specific flasher is used) and directionals. All headlamps, parking lights, taillights, brake lights, adn hazards work just fine. I put in a new LED flasher (non-sequential just basic LED one) and it would not work. I used a multimeter to check for voltage at the flasher socket by jumpering it. I do get approximately 12 volts. I put in the LED flasher and I get the same voltage. I checked the turn signal switch and found that I did not have power at the switch other than for the hazards. I disconnected the directional signal & hazard switch connector. I checked for incoming voltage—I have power to the hazards, horn, and flasher. I do not have any power for the rear directionals or the front directiaonal lights. I am at a loss as to where to check next. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions. I may post this on vintage mustang forum as well. Thank you
  17. I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches. I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................
  18. What got me curious is asking 115K for an R code mach 1 and the car is missing some things that might make it worth the price if the car was complete and original. As it is it's just a 69 with a 428 (maybe) and a hodge podge of parts. It might be a legit R code but I think someone threw it together to sell as a rare-ish 69. Hell, for the asking price they could have at least picked-up the right door panels, console top, instrument panel, brake pedal pad, replaced the left kick/vent panel and picked up a shaker assembly. I do have some doubt of it being a real R code, no pic of door plate & no Marti report. There's a distinct lack of supporting information. However, it could have been a basket case project missing a lot of parts and pieced together like I said before.
  19. Oh, and exhaust tips are aftermarket.
  20. Imo those pins and lanyards are one of the iconic parts of the 69 Mustang and which single it out amongst other Mustangs. The fancy twist locks on the 70 are way too modern a look for me. But what do I know? But I do you should have no problems doing it.
  21. Should work fine. Radiator support is the same hood is basically the same. the only difference I know is the hole in the understructure on a 70 is oval and 69 is round but that should not matter. All the 69 and 70 replacement hoods have oval holes .
  22. Terry, U could also get a boat motor gas tank bulb to pump it up. LOL
  23. Not sure about location but the 70 holes are larger.
  24. Fuzzy dice do not make it a Mach. Its a poor attempt at a clone.
  25. I've always had a leak somewhere in the carb casting making the garage smell and the bowl dry up in a few days. Even on the bench I could never find it. But I didn't think of adding an electric pump to refill the bowl guickly at startup- that's ingenious! I wish I'd thought of that 50 years ago. Of course I could of just replaced the carb.
  26. I also had trouble starting with fuel drain back after a couple of weeks, so I fitted a holley electric flow through fuel pump near the tank and a switch under the dash. Once the fuel line and carb bowl are full my car starts after a few cranks. It also a back up if your mechanical pump should fail.
  1. Load more activity

  • Create New...