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  1. Today
  2. Sounds like your Mechanical Fuel Pump went Bad to me. Did u smell the Engine oil dipstick to see if it smelled like Gas? If so i would replace with a New Fuel Pump and change out the old engine oil with New Fresh Motor oil and oil filter.
  3. Hi everyone, Woke up to a weird issue with my Mach 1 (351 Windsor, carburated). I was out of town for a few weeks and so the car was sitting in the garage for that time. Turned the key and the engine just wouldn't start (though the ignition did work). Thought I might have drowned the carburator, but even clearing the carburator didn't seem to start her up. Finally got the car to start, but the engine sounded really sluggish. Pulled the car briefly out the garage, but that sluggishness just wouldn't go away. Then I noticed I smelled gas and a plume of clear smoke started coming from the exhaust. Got the car parked in the garage again, and turned off the motor. Tried again an hour or two later with the same issue. So, I can get the car to start, but the engine sounds weak and I keep getting that clear smoke/gasoline smell coming from the exhaust. Checked the oil and the dip stick is reading that the levels are fine. Even the oil seems to be pretty good. It's a little dark, but there's no grime or anything. Wanted to see if this sounds at all familiar to anyone. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Last week
  5. That's pretty cool, a Continental Kit, on what looks like a '69 Fairlane, Aussie Style.....
  6. You should swap over to the 1970 bolt in glass, that is what I am doing.
  7. Then this is not the correct 69 Mustang headlight harness. Those end up is a 3 prong bullet plug, and the headlight extension harness plugs into it and then into the two headlights. Pull the green plug at the firewall and see if the pin layout on the headlight harness and that from the firewall match in layout. Even if they do, that doesn't necessarily mean your headlight harness is correct.
  8. I think you may have just solved my problem! Ill have to see if I have those extensions! IT's been so long I may have stuck them in another box. Thanks for the compliment on the color, its actually House of Kolor, Smurf Fondue Blue. It has just a little pearl in it so when the sun hits it, it really pops. Thanks again, for the tip.
  9. It may be a silly question but do you have the headlight extension wires for the 69 Mustang headlights like in the attached link?. I think you are missing them. Mustang Headlight Extension Wire 1969 | CJ Pony Parts BTW that is a beautiful blue, is that a Ford color?.
  10. Thats what everyone i saying, but mine comes right from the firewall and does not have plugs.
  11. Right now the harness is just lying loose, Im in the process of putting it back in, I just wanted to make sure the headlight plugs would fit, and thats when I found out they were short.
  12. The harness is just one piece, there were no plugs, Yes there are horn connections, just didnt get them in the shot.
  13. It has been a long time since I did mine but isn't there a pigtail on one of the headlights or maybe both that plugs into the main harness.
  14. Is the harness coming through this hole in the radiator support? It should be if it ain't. I can't really tell.
  15. good to know, I'll try to pull upwards, to see if that works, I soaked it with WD40 today, so hopefully it'll be easier to pull.
  16. Looking at the pictures and following along it seems your harness has no plugs provided for the headlight harness ? Instead the wiring comes directly off the harness ? Are the horn connections present ? Brian
  17. @dbmac, thanks for the heads up. I'd definitely consider the mid-bolstered seats as the stock provide almost no lateral support.
  18. Ah gotcha, well thats the one that was on the car when I took it apart, and I know the original owner, So maybe it came with a different harness? I think no matter what im going to have to use the extensions to make it fit.
  19. I see that how short the distance between 2 plugs, I also see that your 2 prong plug is longer and goes to outside light; what I am pointing is that your harness does not look like original 1969 harness or it has been modified.
  20. Ill look tonight when I get off work, but I don't see how that will make a difference, that wont make the connection between those two plugs any longer. What my picture is showing is how short the distance is between the 2 plugs.
  21. Do you have a connecter where it is marked on your photo below? That is the connector that is on my first photo. When you disconnect that connector, the two plugs (together) that go to lights will seperate from main harness.
  22. A bit late to the convo, but I have the same seats as rr03cobra. They are comfortable and better lateral support. They do feel taller to me - my head now touches the headliner. I shaved the seat stops to lean back a bit more. @rr03cobra, Nice job on yours btw - wrinkle free! I could not get all of the wrinkles out of mine. @copb8, TMI also has some "in the middle" - still looking like stock Mach sets but with about half as much extra bolstering. I think they are called Sport? As opposed to the Sport-R above. CJ and others carry them.
  23. I did mine - it was a bear. I'm pretty sure it came out the top - you can see the "hot dog" sticking out, so I figured that was less travel for it than out the bottom. The rubber binds up around the bend and hardens.
  24. Hi @Gray69, Glad you tagged me, I have been meaning to share the outcome... I purchased that tunnel kit thru Summit. Not impressed. The pieces don't line up with each other and it would take a bunch of fab to complete. It is way longer than it needs to be. I cut my tunnel a bit at a time and kept moving the trans up until I got the pinion angle back to normal - about 2deg down. The carb is now dead flat (intake manifold has a couple degrees in it). First I tried keeping the shifter boot ring, but that still wasn't enough for the TKO, pinion was still 4-5 deg: I ended up opening it from the kick up at the firewall to the back just past the shifter ring, before the tunnel turns down a bit: With that cutout it is almost a straight line from the back to the firewall. had a piece of sheetmetal cut at SendCutSend (online laser cutting folks, awesome) and folded it on a bench over a pipe to radius the sides. They are slightly splayed towards the front. Then trimmed to fit the cutout with about an inch of overlap: The straight line worked but was a bit high under the dash, so I slit the sides and angled it down at about the back end of the second top cover plate. Its about parallel to the two front covers. I also slit the folds near the back ends to taper that in a bit more. A bunch of tack welds later and it was in: Best part - did NOT set the house and garage on fire! Not beautiful but hey, its under the rug... Some grinding, primer, seam sealer, paint and POR Undercoating on the bottom and it looked pretty neat (meaning not messy): Before everyone starts criticizing, no did not stiffen the brace. Yes I know it does not have a solid frame, but I do not think the car will "wad up like a pretzel". If it does, I'll post pics. The trans is now dead center at the tailshaft, which puts the shifter slightly offset. With the offset shifter base it comes out ok. The mount needed a 1.5" spacer ( I used thick aluminum square tubing). I kinda wanted to modify the mount, but its already above the bellhousing so not too low. All buttoned up and you'd never know what happened! I used a Lokar machined ring and a Scott Drake boot. Drake boot has a different hole pattern but I was able to drill it to match the ring. It is a nice leather piece. The Lokar boot was just vinyl, looked a little cheap. I also lowered it 2" in the back and about 1.5" in the front. Dead flat now and much better stance. I rolled the front fenders a while ago, no rubbing except full lock turns over bumps: To celebrate, I took her to our first show! Just a local meetup with all sorts of cars, a lot of late model stuff and some classics. How do we look with all the fancy stuff? Overall I am very happy with the TKO. A bit of a pain to get in, but works well. NO vibration or noise from the driveline. Still need to put the Posi gears in the rear but it has a lower first and better freeway cruising speed in 5th. But it definitely does NOT fit without modifications, especially if you keep the Z-bar for the clutch. Any angle change on the engine and it will not fit - that's how I knew my mounts were not the problem - my zbar was aligned perfectly. If you go with a hydraulic clutch setup you could drop the engine or live with a steeper angle and cut less. If I were to do another, I would definitely start with the TKX. The real interference with the TKO is the wide top plates; the TKX has no plates, is rounded and a bit shorter. Might even fit without modification. Hope that helps. Let us know how yours goes. Dave
  25. I have the other harness your talking about, it hasn't been cut or shortened. The problem is I took it out some 25 years ago, thinking I would get it back together sooner rather than later! But as everyone on here knows, life gets in the way and here we are. So I know it fit at one point, but I just can't get it to work no matter what config I try. For some reason those wires going from one headlight to the other, the pig tail is to short. Im tempted to remove the headlight buckets and see if that works, thats the only thing I didn't put on the car, the paint shop did that.
  26. An other thing, the plug with 3 wires goes to outside light, the one with 2 goes to inside, they are reversed on your pictures.
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