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  1. Today
  2. I bought the Classic Auto Air perfect fit kit and it looks pretty close to a factory air system when installed. https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/complete-ac-systems/1969-ford-mustang-air-conditioning-system/
  3. The tail lights come as a pair, and require two flasher relays correct?
  4. They are 5.5” backspace. Probably could have gone with 6” and used a spacer to get it a little more right on, but I don’t think they make these in 6” backspace.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Another picture. Yes to your question. Other pads go on the seat back. Brian
  7. Thanks. The kit has 2 round pieces and 2 oval ones. I see the round one in ur picture. Does the oval one go on the bottom of the seat back ? Also is there one on both sides of the seat or just on the one side?
  8. What is the backspace on this wheels? Pics look like you could've gone deeper.
  9. Didnt get refunded yet ,i hope soon
  10. Couple years ago while Mustangs Unlimited was closing, bought 4 Original tooling hoods. Shipping company damaged all of them (in one crate); declined 2 worst hoods, accepted 2 less damaged ones (with damage claim). Wish I was lucky as you are. Took me a long time to get refund for the returned ones and to get the damage claim. And did not get refund/credit on shipping charge.
  11. I just bought 15x10 rear wheels with 275/60 drag radials. The car has a 1" lowering block in the pictures, so that's probably going to have to come out to gain some clearance. Stock 9" rearend and caltracs. (Not installed yet.) The fronts are skinnies.
  12. Shipped a hood out through a company here in Cali. Last week ,got a message from the buyer it was damaged in shipping ,shipping company shoved a fork lift fork through the box and cut a rear corner off the hood . Some times you get a part through like it is supposed to be and sometimes you dont its getting kind of like a crap shoot shipping now days ,i guess 1 out of about 200 isnt bad though .
  13. I was looking for a hood for my car and noticed the shipping to me in Ohio would be around $150 to $175 from the different web sites. I then found a reasonable price for a Scott Drake hood with free shipping, it was shipped through FedEx Freight. I was somewhat impressed with the packaging from Holley sold through the dominant online retailer.
  14. So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in. Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger. I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids. Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January. So excited. Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop. Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time. I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps. My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else. Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people. So share your stories, encouragement and advice. Drivetrain Plan: Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan: I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff. I could potentially do all the following Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
  15. Update Just noticed it's still listed on Ebay but price is now 90K. This paragraph from the "dealer" just kills me Condition: Used Seller Notes: “We represent this vehicle to the best of our ability; however, we strongly encourage all interested parties to come and see the vehicle in person or have a third party inspection. All purchases will be charged a $250 PRE-DELIVERY SERVICE CHARGE*. Additional charges such as sales tax, tag fees, registration fees, government fees, shipping charges, or finance charges may be charged depending on the state you are registering the vehicle and/or having it transported. (*This charge represents costs and profit to the dealer for items such as inspecting, cleaning, and adjusting vehicles, and preparing documents related to the sale.)”
  16. Last week
  17. Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.
  18. I was wondering if anyone has pictures of the adjustment parts that you use to adjust back of seat. I ordered repair set which appear to be rubber stops but my current seats do not have anything so not sure if I have all the parts and where they go. What I bought was Seat Stop Bumper Kit For One Seat 1968-1973. If that is incorrect let me know as well. Thanks
  19. Agree. I've had mine 3 years and they have been flawless.
  20. That will not happen, my wife likes the green. We searched all over NJ when we lived there to find one in that color.
  21. Agreed with Det0326, try the manual brakes and go for the 6 piston wilwood offers. a friend has it on his 69 vert/manual brake setup and stops really well.
  22. The only thing I could add is if your car's engine is pretty much stock making lot of vacuum, power assist will work fine. If not tho and making low vacuum in my opinion u would be better off with manual discs. This is me been there done that thing
  23. Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums? I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc. Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed. You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install. None of those problems switching to manual discs. So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step. Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
  24. Thanks Gary, for those that haven't seen his products they are top notch.
  25. Hello I'm having the Christmas sale again this year. Christmas Sale 10% off all orders on in stock items November 27th thru December 5th. Enter coupon code XMAS2022 at checkout https://www.vintageleds.com/store/c2/Mustangs.html
  26. I'm thinking you ought to paint that scooter red :)
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