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  3. Going to paint on Monday! Well the time is finally arrived! Applied the Lizard Skin and painted the engine compartment Eastwood Chassis Black. Can't wait to see it get a nice coat of Calypso Coral. I still need to touch up the red oxide just a bit underneath.
  4. Bringing an old (but great) post back to life... the PA performance instructions say to connect their green/red wire (from alternator connector) to an ignition wire (also green red) from the engine. The illustrations in the first post say to connect the green/red from the alternator to the orange wire from the voltage regulator. This wasn't addressed in any of the Notes. Is this a mistake on the PA Performance instructions?
  5. Nice. How did you paint the silver on the vent edges?
  6. I've been on these forums for a long time and have never made a build thread for my car, mostly because of the slow progress. Well I decided to create one to somewhat document the progress such that it is. Some background. This car is the 3rd (of 16)(2nd 69) mustang I've owned. I bought it in December 1983 when stationed at Blytheville AFB Arkansas. It changed hands a couple of times before I got it but had come from Texas with a young airman. It actually got the 351C engine from my 72 Gran Torino sport at one time. It had a 351W 3 spd in it by the time I got it. I drove it for a while even moving it when I transfered to Grissom AFB Indiana. Sometime around late 84/early 85 I traded my frozen 429 SCJ motor I had for the 72 Gran Torino Sport for a 70 351C with completed machine work and ready to build. I built the cleveland and swapped out the windsor replacing the 3 spd and 8 inch rear with a close ratio 4 spd and 9 inch with 3.00-1 gears from a 70 cougar at the same time about March 85. I drove it pretty regularly till mid October 86 when I started to decided to rebuild the car. It's been in various states of dis-assembly ever since. This past fall I contacted a guy on pro-touring forums who does renderings and contracted him to do one for my car as inspiration and to help motivate me to do more. I'm not getting any younger! This represents my vision for at least the exterior of my car. Condition when bought. In Indiana after engine rebuild At parents place spring 85 It's far from being done but I'll be adding more pics in the next few days till I get to present state.
  7. I second or third the heddman's. I've been running them 7 years. Mine are ceramic coated. They have been pretty good to work with even with an after market rack and pinion. I have run the quiter versions of flow masters (50 series) and now run dynomax VTs. The flow masters had a good mellow tone without a lot of drown. The dynomaxes are more fun because they are quiter when cruising but when u stand on the throttle a valve opens under pressure and they make a lot more noise. Not as much as magna flow but it is fun in a tunnel or by stone walls.
  8. Thanks rwcstang. That was an interesting video. My first thoughts would be to keep the Bendix. But since I installed the aftermarket Borgeson PS box, which caused me to get the modified z-bar to fit over the steering box, it seems like the Bendix booster may be interfering with the top of the z-bar. Seems once you modify anything, it is a cascade effect to everything else around it. Good argument to staying completely stock I suppose. I did see someone I think it was Machman in a post that seemed to have my same configuration that modified the z-bar again to get it to fit. I might be able to do that but it is really tight in there. However, the idea of putting a shorter booster like the Tuff Stuff model 2225NB may fix the clearance to the z-bar, with the added benefit of being able to remove the master cylinder without interference to the shock tower. Might be a nice fix. Still not sure if the 9 inch Booster would interfere with the clutch linkage rod from the clutch pedal to z-bar. Anybody else out there with any thoughts on this? Thanks, Ed
  9. Mike65, those are very similar to my Heddman's
  10. I think Topher just wants to go from manual to power brakes? Master Power brakes makes high quality stuff, they are located close to me in Mooresville, NC. I have their power brake master cylinder in my 1970 convertible. You should call them directly to make sure you get exactly what you need for your car. I also think you can order direct from them. You will need to change your brake pedal. This is one of those Mustang curses. Lot's of variations and the brake pedals look very similar. Master Power Brakes sells them, and they are really nice and very competitive in pricing, I have one of theirs in my car. Good info from Mustang Steve on this topic here: https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html If you want to go to disc brakes, OpenTracker is high quality outfit. Lots and lots of other options. Good luck. Feel free to fire away any questions you may have.
  11. Yesterday
  12. I used the power disc brake kit from Opentracker Racing, & IIRc it was CCRP kit. The disc brakes were a bolt on kit to my drum brake spindles, they are the Kelsey/Hayes style calipers like the 65/66 Mustangs had from the factory. https://opentrackerracing.com/product/ford-kelsey-hayes-type-4-piston-caliper-power-disc-brake-kit-v8-with-manual-transmission-1967-1969-copy/
  13. CPP Coil over conversion for the front end is what I swapped to... Came with Viking Double adj Coil overs and used stock mounting locations but removes the Spring perch... and they were right at $400.00 for the set..I LOVE MINE
  14. I second the use of Shorty headers...Every mustang I have had has run long tubes and even the $1000 set that I currently have are a Pain in the ass to install and they hang on everything so Go shorties and be done with it
  15. Toss us a link to see. I did a Power Granada Disc Brake swap and it was like $749 for everything from the master and booster to the rotors and pads . it is a really easy swap to do and the directions were clear.
  16. I have a 69 mustang convertible, automatic, 351W. I'd like to have a local shop convert to power brakes. Currently looking at a Master Power Brake Conversion Kit on CJ Pony Parts for $388. I would purchase and have them do the installation. I have no experience here and do not want to buy something that is poor quality or does not work. Any suggestions or recommendations here?
  17. I have a 69 Coupe & I have the Hedman #-88408 Elite Ultra Duty HTC coated shorty headers on my 1987 5.0 w/T-5 trans.
  18. I almost did a core exchange for a duralast booster, looks exactly like my midland minus a few things, but I got my old one rebuilt it was actually cheaper than the repop. I found this video in regards to knowing if you should stick with rebuilding your booster or purchase a new one. 60's-70's Midland / Bendix Brake Booster Knowledge
  19. Here is the mod i did for the door handles. i made a replacement for the latch out of ⅛ stock/ the original part is cast aluminum? that would probably break if you tap the 8-32 thread into it.
  20. I like the MSD Pro Clamps. They have an upper and lower half that snap together and have a screw hole in the bottom half to anchor it to a bracket. I just run mine over the top of the valve covers like Ford originally did. Plus that keeps the majority of the plug wires further away from heat from the headers. Your motor should have the firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8, so it's a good idea to keep wires #6 and #5 apart from each other to eliminate the possibility of crossfire. They won't look as tidy, but at some point function is more important.
  21. I'm in similar thoughts, mostly in the gathering-of-information part so far though. From what I've read about the input shaft it seems the Viper is better than Ford, 26 vs 10 spline. Consider changing the clutch instead. The Viper T56 also has its shifter 1.4 inch more forward than the Cobra T56 (https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances), which would mean you'll have to expand the shifter hole, or move the engine back for it to be centered in the stock hole. The Cobra T56 shifter is already more forward than stock according to Buening's thoroughly T56 build thread (https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/the-t56-conversion-into-a-70-mach.613843/) which would make it even harder I assume. For those willing to import there is also the Cleveland/Windsor to GM T56/TR6060 bellhousing (https://www.rodshop.com.au/gm-t56-6-speed-transmission-to-ford-cleveland-and-carby-windsor-289-351.html).
  22. Billet Specialities separators with Ford Performance valve cover bolts.
  23. Hello, newbie here. I just tried to search for info on T-56 swaps, came up blank. I'm probably doing the search incorrectly. Anyway, I have 69 fastback project, originally a 351W/FMX Mach 1. Decided on doing a Boss 302 / T-56 swap. The T-56 I have is a 1992 Viper, but I have a 302 "bellhousing". So I need to learn what mods the tranny needs, and I think it just needs an SBF input shaft, and the proper output yoke. I'm not sure about the clutch linkage either, haven't looked real close yet. Would prefer a conventional mechanical clutch linkage. Speedo output also not sure yet. Anyway, appreciate any leads or links. Thanks much !
  24. Mike and I finished restoring the 2 outer AC vents today. Turned out nice. Drilled out the stakes and replaced with small machine screws. Will be able to service in the future. Was able to refresh the felt inside and the louvres now hold and turn nicely.
  25. And I really don't like to have a door handle assembly that must be welded into the door. That's why I like Newstang's handles. They are easily serviceable if necessary.
  26. Hi Rsanter, I just joined this site today mainly to ask about your mustang you mentioned with the Tuff Stuff Brake booster. Is it the Model 2225NB or 2225NA? I would guess it is after looking at the Tuff Stuff site and Summit. My real question is do you have it installed on a Manual transmission or Automatic car? Here's my situation with my car. 1969 Mach1, PS, PB, 4-sp, removed 351W and now have (1970) 351C 4bbl. I just removed the factory PS and steering box. Installed a Borgeson PS box. Currently installing a new Z-bar for Borgeson from Open Tracker Racing. The z-bar clears the Borgeson nicely, however it's range of motion is between the factory Bendix brake booster and the Borgeson "side" which gives about 3 inches of travel. Not sure if that is going to be enough. So i thought if I could fit the Tuff Stuff 9 inch booster, 2225NB, it would sit back closer to the firewall and allow my z-bar greater travel. However, I can't be sure if the Tuff Stuff 9 inch booster would interfere with the clutch linkage rod where it comes through the firewall. So that's why I was wondering if yours was installed on a Manual or Automatic vehicle. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Ed
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