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  3. Digging up an old thread... Its about time to replace the gauges in my car. Every time I look at it, it seems something else breaks. Mine's a non-tach car. Transmission is a T-5, which I believe should be compatible with their electronic speed sending unit. My distributor is HEI with a terminal marked "tach". Did this thread ever arrive at a handy list of what wires plug in to which terminals on the dakota digital brain box? And which terminals we don't use? Spending that much for a dash, I would like to be able to get as much functionality out of it as possible, having it interface with as much of the factor stuff as I can. For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?
  4. Yesterday
  5. I want more pics please!
  6. Mike65

    New Ride/Project

    Nice score Bob. I would love one of those.
  7. While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.
  8. Welcome to the site. Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up? Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change? Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car. Start learning the names of parts and their functions. Then try asking a few questions? See how it goes. Brian
  9. Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do. With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced) (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.
  10. I have a 70 Mach with a 408 Cleveland with a Tremec TKO 600. I am happy with my 3.70 gears in a Yukon case and the Tremec with a .64 overdrive and a 27.83" tire diameter gives me about 1,850 RPMs at 65 Mph. Although from a stop first gear does not get me very far, before I am shifting into 2nd gear. I have an Eaton TrueTrac and I love it. As Mach1 Driver said, the helical gears behaves much like an open rear until you get on it and then it locks without delay. No noise.
  11. I was like you 8 years ago when I bought my 70 Torino. I knew nothing and did not grow up around other guys who worked on their cars. No one in my family worked on cars when growing up. None of my current friends worked on cars. Even with those disadvantages I learned how to restore my car. I learned everything by obsessively stalking the forums and watching thousands of videos. I did it on my own. By myself. You said you want to learn by doing. You are right. That is the only way. When most of these guys started working on cars they were just teenagers working on their car in the driveway and even at the curb. You just have to start with something small. Figure it out and build your knowledge little by little. Unfortunately, it is very unlikely someone in a car club is going to take you under their wing and help you with your project. They probably have their own project they need to work on. I would just keep watching the videos and doing the research. Good luck.
  12. Hey everyone, Have a bit of an odd question and I'm probably overthinking it. So, I've had my 69 Mach 1 for 3 years now. I love it, but when I first got it I didn't really have a place to work on it. So when getting it up and restored, I had to do it through a reputable mechanic or just let it sit. The goal of having this car was being able to learn about it and work on it myself, but I decided to get the car safe and drive-able. I now have a small garage and want to start doing some modifications (EFI being one at the top of my list), but I know I need someone to show me the ropes. I could watch a thousand YouTube videos (and I have), but someone has to look at my particular Mach 1, what's been done to it (before me and after) and really hold my hand through this process. Plus, I want to learn by doing. Has anyone ever looked for a mentor to help them learn about their car? I don't really know anyone locally, so I'm thinking of joining the local chapter of a mustang club here in Los Angeles. If anyone has any additional advice about how to learn about my car so I can start working on it myself, that would be great. You guys are the pros, so just thought I would ask in case there's more to consider.
  13. sounds like a good planand yes show us pictures, I would like to see finished product
  14. Wow, how do you rate Mustang Steve's help?
  15. RPM

    New Ride/Project

    I'm the 56 classic in the middle. My brother is too my left, and Mustang Steve is to my right. Canyon Lake TX is gorgeous.
  16. My MSD box caused me lots of issues and it was pretty much brand new when i purchased my mustang . I was chasing a no spark intermittent issue. It would run OK on the most part but other times have no spark. Left me stranded once. I changed out the magnetic pickup and leads and the issue persisted. I checked the msd box using the paperclip method and found it was the box. I know most guys run the boxes under the hood but heat will kill them. MSD is not what it used to be . The leads are rubbish . I removed the whole system and replaced it with ICE ignition a couple of years ago and never looked back.
  17. OK will do! I honestly think that the firewall was just stamped poorly. I went to NPD today to see if they had one that I could measure but they didn't. They are getting one in for me next week. From the bottom of the rocker to the top of the firewall corner is 21.5" on both sides on the original car. On the new firewall its 21.5" on the drivers side and 22.5" on the passengers side. That's where the gap is. I think its just a bad firewall.
  18. So we haven’t been standing still, we just haven’t started on it. Still finishing dads Dart. I am collecting parts where I can. Mainly when I see a good deal on original parts. I found a rear valence that needs some work but is in good shape. I found a grille support bracket as well. Finally, my Dynacorn floor came in! Got a killer deal on eBay, and it shipped direct from Dynacorn.
  19. Midlife

    New Ride/Project

    I'm sure the amount of rust removal involved would tell the story...
  20. det0326, I found the thread with the barrel spacers. There was a lot of feedback about the tensile strength vs. sheer strength. After reading that I decided to by 1” square tubing. I’m gonna bolt the tubing and seat tracks at one time on the base of the seat using 2 grade 8, 5/16 x 2 1/2” bolts, lock washers and nuts. On the original seat tracks there are a few rivets that one shouldn’t grind down, so I’m gonna put a couple 5/16s washers in between the track and tubing on the 2 1/2” bolts, I’ll take some pictures once I get things going.
  21. Those cowl sides should be mirror image of each other. Remove them and butt them up together to see if they match. If they do, you have a problem somewhere else.
  22. My 69 Grande is not vinyl top and gloss black trim.
  23. aslanefe

    New Ride/Project

    Are they worth parting out?
  24. I have a theory about this and some evidence to support it. If your coupe had a black vinyl top, like most Grande's did, the rear window trims are black. If no vinyl top, they are a grey color. I think the parts book might also list another color or two though I have never seen any colors but black or gray. I have the rear window trims from an extremely low mileage plain vanilla coupe, body color new lime, and they are grey.
  25. Last week
  26. Hmmm. Ok i'll try experimenting a little bit.
  27. Reproduction hood, new when painted. Small mishap at the body shop ended up denting the area above the driver's side hood hinge (bolt was too long) The area has been repaired. I took it on trade, was thought to have no scoop holes, obviously it does. I do not want to ship this, Make me an offer.
  28. I would start trying to clamp up other parts of the car. If you have a fender, see how well it fits with what you have there on the passenger side. Same with a windshield or the windshield trim and inner fenders. That will help you figure out which pieces you have are out of spec or hopefully just assembled wrong. Clamp or cleco as much of the car together as possible. If you can get it to the point where even the outside panels are fitting together well, then take a bunch of layers off and start working your way from the inside out replacing the clecos with spot welds.
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