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  1. Today
  2. That is a 70 wheel, I will take it. How much do you want me to send you? My zip is 31088.
  3. I am offering this steering wheel and pad for free. I am asking for the recipient to pay the shipping costs. This steering wheel came out of a 1969 Mustang, however, I don't think it was original to the car. Ford two spoke steering wheel with Horn pad-black. This is an original steering wheel for a Ford Mustang, Fairlane, Torino, or Galaxie. The back of the steering wheel does have some cracks. The horn pad works although there is wear on one side. The center emblem has some wear. It is in good condition, overall. Shipping is from 02563.
  4. FYI in a stock harness only these lights will dim: ash tray, heater, radio, 2 clock, 8 dash lights https://imgur.com/7IsqEVN
  5. No the steering wheel does not lock. It appears it was install correctly from what little instructions there are. I had my mechanic look at it and he couldn't determined what caused it. So he filed down the two pins just short of making contact with the round copper plate. So far so good. Thanks for the input. Mark
  6. Yesterday
  7. If you're going to do some cutting and splicing, I'd wager it'd be easier to splice the center hump from the one piece to your lower profile original seat risers. That's what I did anyway.
  8. I read on another forum that a guy shortened them but it could have reduced the stiffness the add. Maybe its something a cutoff wheel and my welder can fix. I'll find out. Glad your still around! I bolted that crossmember and it fit perfect Bob. I even lifted my front end and it worked as I hoped it will. I'm a long ways away from installing that 408w but ill find out if it clears the pan I got for it.
  9. The old girl is starting to come around. Love it. Dave R.
  10. They do. Also, dome light, heater light, courtesy light in the ignition, high beam switch, gear shift light - all working properly.
  11. Been a while since I updated. Car has been painted and assembly has started along with continued restoration of suspension.
  12. ***SOLVED*** First off, I would like to thank you all for your help. Between all of your insights I was able to figure out the problem. LONG story short, I hooked a 9V battery to some speaker wire and started poking my fully assembled cluster (now on my kitchen counter) until lights started turning on. To my surprise, sometimes almost all of the lights turned on! WEIRD! After a while I noticed a pattern that when I put voltage across each light socket, one of two things would happen: 1) Only two lights would light up OR 2) All of the other lights besides two would light up. This would happen after changing the polarity of my test by reversing which side on each socket I had the "positive" and "negative" cables from the 9V battery. I then checked the forum to post my findings and saw what @danno had said about the insulating brackets so I took apart the cluster again and made sure they were in the correct position. Once I re-assembled the cluster and repeated my earlier test, I got the same results EXCEPT now two different bulbs were lit up (or not lit up depending on the cable polarity). Once I bashed my head against a wall a few more times, I thought back to what @Midlife said about polarity, and even though the bulbs I purchased have reversible polarity, and, therefore, should not care how they are installed, I thought maybe, just maybe, technology back in 1969 wasn't set up to handle reversible polarity. I then, in the proper "positive/negative voltage flow" scenario, removed and rotated each bulb, that wasn't lighting up, 180 degrees and BOOM. All bulbs work as intended. What a relief. TLDR: Even reversible polarity LED bulbs bought from modern manufactures are not reversible in this context. I have no idea why and random chance of how I chose to install each bulb has been my downfall all along. I will definitely be marking my lights and light sockets with a pen from here on out. Anyways, a test drive to make sure my gauges were working revealed that the only casualty is my fuel gauge, which does not work anymore. @danno this gauge had the insulating brackets in the correct place all along so i'm not too sure why it's suddenly not working, but I am taking the win for tonight. Pictures attached of my 9V test for those who are curious. I hope this thread helps others who have issues with after market LED's.
  13. Last week
  14. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=392554502060331&id=1205285726223530
  15. When the bulbs are not working, are all of the dash lamp bulbs out? If so, the problem can be isolated to the dash cluster connector back through the main harness, fuse box and headlight switch. If only some of the bulbs don't work, the problem is in the dash cluster. When I talk about the dash lamps, I only mean those that go in the blue diffuser holes. Other lamps are for turn signals, and gauge indicator lamps. Each of those are on separate circuits.
  16. Atta boy! Just be aware that convertible seat riser will raise your seats one inch.
  17. Yes, I call it a flextape, that is commonly used in teh electronics industry as a circuit board that is flexible. The insulator I am referring to is between the circuit board and the gauges. You must have this on each gauge or you will fry things. However, it will not cause the LED's to not work. I would start by checking for voltage to the circuit board. I think it is the blue/red wire, the second from the end. Make sure you have 12 volts on this when the lights are on and everything else is off. Do The gauges work? If they do, that tells me you have a ground connection. If they do not, then that could be the problem. To rule out the LED as a potential problem , but you old light bulbs back in and try them.
  18. Finally pulled out the original I6 250 a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now
  19. Thanks guys. John - yes 5 deg sounds like a lot and probably causing that vibration. I saw the lower top covers but from MDL's feedback I shouldn't have needed them. Guess there is a lot of variation in body dimensions. MDL said to "go ahead" with my 5-1/2 deg but I don't really want to. Looks... wrong. Jpfll - I had the stock mounts correct, and with the Ron Morris mounts they have plenty of play so OK now. Definitely made it easier to align side to side. I have the 1/2" lower RM mount plates too, so will try those this weekend and see how much difference that makes. That will eliminate the use of the zbar as the engine will be too low. Not necessarily a bad thing, just more work and money for cable or hydraulic. Plus I *really* hate brake fluid... Or, I can cut and lift the tunnel. Doable just more PITA work. Funny, was just watching Bitchin' Rides "Fireproof" episode where they fix a '68 with TKO and bad vibration. They cut the tunnel to get the pinion down to 2deg. The real problem is that the tailshaft on the TKO sits almost 2" lower that the T10, from the mounting holes for the cross member. If you ignore the car and just measure Mount hole - cross member surface - mount thickness (same for both) - mount surface on trans - CL of driveshaft. I think I was about two months too early - the TKX looks like a much better way to go. Can be ordered with a 6.5 input shaft, so no spacer. Same length as a Toploader so no new driveshaft. It should be literally plug-n-play with a new crossmember. You can see the size difference - all the blue areas are gone:
  20. Well, I made it! Arrived Monday afternoon, movers showed up at 8AM Tuesday, and have spent the rest of the week making the house livable. Will have to get car registered, driver's license, and a AZ business license over the next couple of weeks, then work on the garage to make it usable for wire work. Plan is to start back up Jan 1.
  21. 428 shaker; Stud to driver fender edge 23 1/2", stud to pass. fender edge 23 3/8", stud to cowl edge 17 1/4 ". Dave R.
  22. @danno What is this flextape that you speak of? Is that another name for the circuit board? As far as I know there was not any insulating material on the gauges - unless you count some rectangular plastic retaining washers keeping the gauges in place when the nuts are off. As far as the ground goes, I did not check that ground with the cluster hooked up - just on my table with the multimeter. As far as I know, I did not blow anything post foil - all other interior lights are working properly and no fuses are blown. @aslanefe I did clean up the points on the sockets and bent them to increase tension (accidentally broke one in the process). I will try cleaning up the copper pads. My only worry is there may not be enough material left to polish and make a good connection. @Midlife Which one is the alternator indicator lamp? Also, these LED bulbs are for automotive purposes and have a reversible polarity so direction should not matter. I confirmed this with the manufacture. I appreciate all of the replies so far. I will post any updates/solutions as I get them.
  23. I think the right question here may be: where did Ford CHOOSE to measure engine temperature? It is in the front of the intake on the side opposite the thermostat. If you look at the circulation path, Eric69 is correct that the front of the intake should be hotter than the rear. Its the last place in the engine where water circulates before exiting via the thermostat. Water leaves the bottom of the radiator, and is pumped into the block, and around the cylinders. It exits the block through the head gasket passages. Most of the water is forced to the rear so the entire engine gets cooled. DON'T reverse the head gasket- this is a common and disastrous mistake. No water is allowed through the front red passages, some can go up into the heads through the green and blue, but most is forced to the rear. From the heads it goes into the intake manifold to the front where the thermostat is located, and through the top hose into the radiator.
  24. I doubt that the coolant temp exits the radiator at less than 140* which it would have to do in order to register 140* on that rear sender. It has to pick up some heat between the radiator exit and the rear sender. What is the temp of the coolant as it exits the radiator as checked by a IR thermometer? I would guess more that 140* and the coolant temp can only go up from that point. Dave R.
  25. Yeah, my question is how much heat does the coolant pick up from the back of the intake/heads to the thermostat? I think Eric69 might be right.
  26. LED's are usually polarized, so if the bulb is 180* out, it will not work. For the bulbs that aren't working on the new card, try rotating the bulbs. Also, you cannot use LED's for alternator indicator lamps, as the lamp itself is part of the charging circuit.
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