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  1. Yesterday
  2. Wow, some beautiful cars and so many American makes. My parents had a red Cadillac convertible when I was young so that one made me smile.
  3. At least upgraded valve springs and screw in studs with adjustable rockers. I have this cam from howards , idle 800-850 rpm , 5800-6000 rpm max
  4. Posting these pictures a bit late since the event took place in the beginning on June 2022. Wheels National is one of, if not the biggest car show in Sweden and consists of 4 shows in different parts of the country. The Wheels National Norr (North) takes place in my town. Last year was the first year after a two year hiatus due to covid, and sadly the the usual area was probably around 50% smaller compared to previous years because they built a new arena there. Because of this only cars older than 1980 (I think) was allowed entry last year. Usually whoever has an old or somewhat special car is allowed entry as long as there is room. One corner of the show usually have a couple of hot rods and a truck or three. The day ends with a cruise around the city center for a couple of hours.
  5. I would give one of the cam makers a call with your drive train info. They'll let you know what works best. You can use that info to buy from whomever you want.
  6. Hi Guys, just a quick question... Finally I found some cam on stock at rockauto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/melling,24211,camshaft,5260 Its Melling 24211 Advertised Exhaust Duration 306 Advertised Intake Duration 300 Basic Operating RPM Range 3000 Cam Type Hydraulic Flat Tappet Computer Controlled Compatible No Exhaust Duration at .050 inch Lift 234 Exhaust Valve Lift 0.520" Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 1.600" Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift 224 Intake Valve Lift 0.497" Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 1.600" Lifter Type Hydraulic Lobe Separation 112 Can I use it for stock engine (I just matched intake and exhaust openings on stock heads to gasket size)? Thanks a lot for some reply
  7. I found it in white and brown and black and grey but that is all ,i was thinking about trying Rust oleum its self to see what colors they have
  8. Ed, that is a KH style 4 piston set up, not Granada. Original 69-70 cars have single piston calipers. That kit you used comes with the bracket for KH style calipers to attach to drum spindles (attached with the 4 bolts that go through the dust shield). I used the same KH style kit on one of my 69s to convert from drum to disc. You can't install original 69-70 Mustang (and Granada) single calipers and caliper brackets on a drum spindle. Original 69 and 70 caliper brackets do not mount through dust shield mounting points like the KH style. Here are some pictures of 1970 drum spindle, Here are some pictures of 1970 disc spindle (69 spindle similar with smaller diameter pin and smaller tie rod); you can see the extra holes on disc spindle (not the holes for dust shield) to install the 69-70 caliper bracket you can see here.
  9. RR: any other colors this paint comes in?
  10. I used my original drum spindles and installed disc brakes. I wish I had gone with the KH setup but I have the CSRP kit which I think is a Granada setup. This is my car. The calipers mount on the two holes you can see to the left of the backing plate.
  11. Last week
  12. Ok ,i sanded out any imperfections ,scuffed it well with a green scotch brite ,tack ragged it and sprayed 3 coats ,go light and allow each coat to set up in between . These are wet but you can now see the grain ,i held the can about 12 inches from the panels
  13. As far as I know, the basic discs/hubs (without races installed) are the same, but bearing races are different. Discs come with races installed so there is a 69 disc part number with 69 race installed, and a 70 part number with 70 race installed.
  14. Drum spindles do not have provisions/mounting points for caliper brackets like disc spindles.
  15. Kinda confused by Peter's last post. I always thought the 1 piece hub and rotor was same for 1969 and 1970, just a different bearing. also the tapered hole in 1970 spindle is bigger so u have to use 1970 tie rod.
  16. Learned something new. I knew you could use the 5 lug drum spindles for discs but not that 69 and 70 needed different rotors.
  17. I should have added up front that I would not be doing the engine upgrade if I didn't have to address bad rings or valves. At least two of my cylinders are flooded with oil. Could be valve guides or rings, either way I have to tear into it. Do I want to put it back stock? No, I don't think so. My car is a base V8 302 Sportsroof, standard interior, non A/C car with the only option I can tell is the sports Appearance Group that added the sport side mirrors, hood scoop and AM radio. The things that made my car interesting were the dealer installed AC which I have removed and the non-fold down dark red interior survived and was not switched to black. I'm not losing sleep over this anymore. Maybe over how much I'm spending but not about modifying the original block. Looking at my car with the hood down the only things people will see changed will be subtle: Removing script Mustang from the fenders Added period correct 15" Magnum 500 with RWL radial tires instead of 14" whitewalls and hubcaps Shaved antenna - I test myself and it is one of the last things I notice when I look at a classic car. Adding the chin spoiler 2 stage paint lowered front and rear, car sits level Interior differences will also be subtle No foil trim around gauges TMI Console Hurst shifter and plain white shifter knob 3 point seatbelts instead of the separate shoulder belts Speakers in the fresh air vent panels and package tray (Original AM radio in the dash, bluetooth amp inside the dash hooked to speakers) TMI Sport upholstery and foam with extra bolster in the front seats (Still dark red) Swap out the 16" steering wheel for a 14 or 15" wood rimmed wheel Classic Auto Air install using the original heater controls Maybe a tach on the steering column Under hood and drivetrain changes Still a 69 Ford 302 block, not a Coyote or a 351W, Cleveland or FE engine. All new internals, aluminum heads, intake and 4 barrel carb Plan to use original accessory brackets kept black with V-belts Upgraded to 24" Radiator 428CJ replica (not-aluminum) and clutch fan Aftermarket distributor but no MSD box AC components including Sanden compressor but looking for a way to hide the compressor under a plate T5 instead of C4 transmission Ceramic shorty headers and dual exhaust Upgrade differential with shorter gears and no more peg leg 11" disc brakes up front Will still have original style suspension and power steering, original style interior, factory paint color and other badging
  18. I am not 100% sure but I seem to remember that some of the ford vans used the Saginaw pump in late 70's into early 80's. Maybe a place to start looking.
  19. Amazing work. I treat those fiberglass parts like gold.
  20. You piqued my interest so I went lookin': https://terlinguaracingteam.com/pages/history And there is a town called Terlingua - right down on the border of Texas and Mexico. Like 6 degree's of separation to a 70 Mustang :)
  21. I have a Saginaw pump supplied with the Borgeson power steer kit, but the pulley groove size is 3/8"and not 1/2" as it should be. To save me hours on the interwebs, has anyone got a lead on what pulley will fit the press on shaft and mate with the 1/2" wide belt? I don't really want to change all the pulleys as I spent hours and dollars getting them correct the first time.
  22. Outstanding! Hopefully you'll stick around and enjoy our misery...I mean fun.
  23. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!! First I want to thank everyone that took the time to help me solve this problem, I couldn't have done it without all of you. What solved the problem was getting rotors (with races) for a 1970 Mustang vs. the 1969. Both model years use the same inner and outer bearings and as such I did not have to re-replace them. I did notice immediately that the inner bearing sat further down in the race, the outer bearing I believe did as well since I now have plenty of clearance for the cotter pin through the castle nut. So the spindle numbers I have are obviously a 1970 model year that require a 1970 rotor with the corresponding races. RPM pointed this out.....D0ZA As I mentioned early on the brake job that was done prior had the incorrect rotor, the shop must have taken something off the pads to allow the rotor to function. I hope this helps someone else out in the future. PK
  24. These things are so small and fragile ,i already dropped one twice! Sprayed the texture ,it looks like it is best to spray a light coat and then a couple of heavier coats after the first dries ,it is really glossy until it dries then is about an egg shell finish. Some how i will have to glue them to a wood block to make a mold because they are so small . These will set a few days so the paint can cure well ,my materials are on back order so it should work out perfect .
  25. The pulleys I had ended up working fine. Power Steering - DO0R-B Alternator - C5AF-10353-H Water Pump - D1AE-8509-BA Crank - D00E-6312-B The issue I was having with those pulleys turned out to be caused by the water pump fan hub being installed at the wrong height. I never knew it was wrong before since everything was just a cobbled together mismatch of parts that I made work with some homegrown brackets/spacers.
  26. Not directly. Worked through WCCC and the feedback from Daniel Carpenter was that “supply chain and manufacturing issues” made them unavailable and not ETA when/if they would ever be back in stock. That said, my personal experience in contacting Daniel Carpenter directly has been…..underwhelming.
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