All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
Zelly Pure Health LLC joined the community
- Today
-
Paullex78 joined the community
-
-
- Yesterday
-
Are you still looking for 1970 428 shaker parts? I have an air cleaner base only.
-
69 mach 1 brake lights don't work
Brian Conway replied to Avengera30's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
It can be a tight fit. You can make your own just cut up a milk jug. Brian -
You are welcome
-
69 mach 1 brake lights don't work
Avengera30 replied to Avengera30's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Thanks for the information. -
-
69 mach 1 brake lights don't work
Print Dad replied to Avengera30's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Hello avengers, you are correct that the are wires to a switch on the brake pedal. most likely they forgot to hook it up…..they should fix this free of charge best of luck… print dad -
You should have a switch on the brake pedal. The link below is actually for one of the bushings but has a good picture of all the bushings and how the switch should be installed. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c5dz-2b129-b.html Make sure all of the bushings are installed or there will be too much space and the switch will not activate. Also can be an issue with the switch that will cause it to not activate. Can be solved with a sheet metal shim where the rod and the switch meet. Note: The switch for manual and powers brakes are different. I’m not sure of the exact difference.
-
Changed transmission from automatic to 5 speed. New clutch and brake pedals and now brake lights don't work. Is there a switch or wires that they forgot to hook up to the brake pedal?
- Last week
-
-
It looks to be the same thing. The ID of the barbed ends might be smaller than the tpv8, buy two
-
-
-
-
This is just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions seems everyone has one. If you didn't align after doing the arning drop it is very possibly you made the caster neutral or even negative which is a huge contributor to the wondering you described. changing control arm back to stock location could have put your alignment spec's back to where they should be.
-
Stainless Steel Fuel Tank Breather Rollover Vent Valve fit for Kawasaki KRX 1000 https://ebay.us/m/5eaTgK How did i forget that....
-
-
-
-
Something like what (O_o)??
-
70 Fastback Sail Panels
zeeth1946@yahoo.com replied to zeeth1946@yahoo.com's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Sorry, I just noticed your reply ! How much for a pair for my 70 Sport Roof ? -
1970 Sail Panels - Fiberglass made by ridgerunner
RPM replied to Vermillion Blazer B2's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Thanks for the tip Jim. -
Hey guys, why not something like this instead of the expensive tpv8 valve? Or two?
-
No I didn’t. Put it back to stock. So far its drives better. Doesn’t wonder all over the road now. Still need to get the front end alignment
-
Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately this forum has lost its ability to host pictures. You can show them on the site as long as they are hosted elsewhere, but I for one don't feel like paying for that. It really impedes our ability to help one another. I work around that by making the information available on my Google Drive, and if a back and forth conversation with pictures (diagrams, etc.) is required, then it can be done on one of the other forums like VMF (Vintage Mustang Forum). You will want a 95 amp 3G alternator (3G= Fords 3rd generation). I would show you the output graph but like I said, we can't post pictures. It produces 95 amps at only 1500 rpm, and 120 amps at 3000 rpm. Actually I would recommend using a big block 6 blade fan and clutch instead of electric fans that need Hoover Dam to power them, but suit yourself. The nice thing about 3Gs is that they give you almost 65 amps at only 900 rpm. 95 amps is the largest size that is recommended for v-belts. PA Performance makes a nice alternator and a conversion box to replace the regulator that makes the wiring changes easier. Use the link to my Google Drive and open the file: "3G alternator swap onto a classic Mustang". Any of the information on the drive is free for the taking. The wire diagrams change depending on year and if it has an ammeter or charging light. 69s are on pages 15 and 16: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Just one word of caution; I'm working right now with a guy on VMF who made the swap but is having trouble getting the alternator to charge. I'm thinking his 56 year old plug in the harness has high resistance connections that are causing his problem. He is in the process of making some additional changes that aren't shown on the wire diagrams. He is adding a cable to make sure the alternator is grounded, and moving the position of the yellow wire from the alternators internal regulator and connecting directly to the alternators B+ post. This shouldn't be necessary, and people don't always report back with their outcome, so if you have any problems, please let me know.
-
Ed and the others who said burned out bulb were correct. Thanks all for the help. Boy, what a world of difference with the new bulb and a bit of adjustment. I'll change the passenger side mañana cuz it's a bit dull. Like its owner.
-
John, where's da pic? Here's my unrestored original.
-
You are in luck. The forum has an excerpt resource that freely shares his knowledge of all things electrical. Just a few post Dow there is a post you should read, “How Alternators Work”. There is also a link in that thread to a google drive with the specific info you are looking for.: