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  3. its the liskey diagram I believe. not sure of the history/origin of it, but this is widely used. I haven't done this myself to confirm measurements on my 69, but I'm sure others can chime in here and tell you if its accurate or not as some are in the process of full restoration. Best,
  4. As aslanfe stated above ... All single exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit the trunk floor in the middle right by the sender. All dual exhaust cars had the fuel sender wire exit in the passenger side drop off due to the transverse mounted muffler. Info & pics of the dual exhaust version is here: Dual Exhaust Fuel Sending Unit Extension Wire Harness - Dead Nuts On My car was originally single exhaust, but I added the factory transverse muffler dual exhaust system to it back in the 80's when it was first reproduced. Pics below show the issue and how I made it work ... back then, I just assumed this is what Ford did on the dual exhaust cars. I did buy a new Alloy Metal Products taillight harness with the Convenience Group from NPD last year and it only comes in the Dual Exhaust version. Have yet to swap it in but when I do, I'll do it right and drill the hole in the drop off and put a rubber body plug in the old single exhaust wiring hole. Doug
  5. Following……. Where does this chart originate? Is it in a manual or book?
  6. Jay, do you have the stock 2-1/4 dual exhaust with the resonators up front and the transverse muffler positioned on edge between the pumpkin and the fuel tank? I've often wondered how close that gets to the sender wire, but it makes sense that there would be less exposure to the muffler coming out the center than running across the tank from the side.
  7. I have a few single exhaust cars and fuel sender wire comes out from middle, not trunk drop-off; wonder if dual exhaust comes out of trunk drop-off.
  8. Jay, Midlife said dual exhaust wire goes out from center; so you should be good. On a side note, my single exhaust cars also have the wire coming out from center. Wonder if Midlife meant to say dual exhaust comes out from passenger drop-off?
  9. You know, my coupe was a single exhaust, but I converted it to dual exhaust (only because I wanted to). My fuel gauge wire penetrates the center, forward of the fuel tank, after it goes thru my gauge calibrator. Does the fact that I now have a dual exhaust mean that maybe I shouldn't go thru the hole in the back of the drop-off? Will the exhaust now on that get the wire too hot and melt the insulation? I'm gonna look at this this weekend - and see what is up - been too busy to get out there until now....
  10. Wow. Another reason why I can't really understand what are the reasons for the variances...I prefer to restore customer's wiring so I know it is appropriate to their vehicle. Otherwise, it is simply a crap shoot and I don't like that at all! Now it is even more of a crapshoot!
  11. Yesterday
  12. can you post the link of the qtr panel and picture of those qtr panels you purchased? most likely the 70 qtr panel has the stamped tooling of the 69 minus the side grille option. this can be fix by either cutting a slit in the middle of the line (above the marker light) and flattening it, then reweld it to match the original 70 qtr extensions. An cheaper/easy option would be to flatten completely with out cutting or just use bondo to "hide" that line. this may be the chart you are referring to:
  13. Hello. New to the forum. I have a '70 Mustang notchback in need of a lot of body work, mostly on the rear end. I've heard of something called a body dimension chart that lists reference points and specific measurements throughout the car. I think maybe this chart is used if the car was involved in an accident so that the body panels can be set back to their original positions. Does anyone know if this chart exists and where I could find it? I ordered replacement rear quarter panels from CJ Pony. The panels are labeled 69-70 but there is a body line to the rear of the fender, above the marker light that is not on the panel I took off the car. Does anyone know if mustang changed the body lines at some point through 1970? I have never restored a car like this before. Any other advice you have is appreciated. Thank you. Bill
  14. Mid, thanks for the heads up on the fuel line for dual exhaust. My car has it in the center and it is a single exhaust Mach1. I will be changing to dual exhaust so I'm always interested in knowing the changes between the two. I was surprised to find out that the passenger side rear leaf spring shackles are different for a dual exhaust car (among other hanger brackets and things). Apparently the shackles are only available through Eaton Springs, as he had them specially tooled.
  15. Sorry about that, my son still hasn't gotten around to looking at that. For some reason he puts his work before mine- the nerve of him! Here is a shot of the wire routing using the snipping tool. I show the Cougar version first because it is the only page that has the fuel sender wire that Mid mentions in the post above: Cougar 2-E14 interior lights, clock, cigar lighter, but shows fuel sender wire Mustang 2-E22 exterior lights, clock, cigar lighter. No fuel sender wire shown
  16. My convertible is in the paint shop, check out my 1970 convertible thread.
  17. Wow, impressive. Yeah, you almost need an "X" pipe at the rear. The resonators are a nice touch. It should sound insane....
  18. Ethanol Free 91 is still available around me (separate HOSE even at my local station), so that is all I run and thankfully Ethanol is not a concern for me. I've also thought about EFI, but way too much stuff to modify or change which makes it even more difficult to try to maintain my desired "stock look". Plus the tuning aspect of it scares me. When the engine was built in 1987, I originally ran a stock Autolite 4300 carb and swear it got better MPG's then. I switched to the Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper within a year or so and ran that for 32 years. It has 30 over TRW Forged Pistons (about 9.5 CR), a Crower 280HDP street/strip cam in it that gives it a nice & healthy sounding idle, and behind it is a Wide Ratio Toploader 4 Speed and 3.50:1 T-Lok 9". When adjusting the idle screws / setting the idle on this Summit carb, I could not get the vacuum into the "normal" range no matter what I did ... as if there was a big vacuum leak somewhere. I don't remember if this was the same with the Holley and at the time I did nor feel like swapping it back on to find out. During all my tests to try and find this vacuum leak, I stuffed a rag into the top of the secondaries at idle and this will snub it out. So I think there may be an adjustment that may need to be done with the secondary butterflies (unless this is normal). Another reason swapping the Holley back on is even more tempting to see if a rag in it's secondaries will also snub it out !! Other than the 3.50 gears (3000 RPM @ 63 MPH), you would think it could get better MPG's ... at least around town. I always felt that the Holley could use a little tweaking by someone with more carb knowledge than me and obviously now the Summit carb could definitely benefit from an expert's touch. It starts, runs, and drives great "as-is" though, so I've just not had the time or ambition to play around with it any further. Bottom line is this carb is definitely worth the cost & effort to try out on any small block Ford before the big switch to EFI. Doug
  19. Thanks, the toughest part was fabricating the exhaust pod in the rear. the stock Shelby pod is a massive restriction to flow.
  20. I am in the same situation, do I want to go EFI or a carb. My wife wants me to go EFI but I keep thinking a carb would easier.
  21. Last week
  22. Yes, on Ebay, but they are 7", not sure if they will fit a '69 https://www.ebay.com/itm/374521203380
  23. Wow, that is incredible... your workmanship and fabrication skills are to be envied. I like how you integrated the exhaust cut-outs....
  24. I've been running one for about six months with a Holley Sniper setup. Not racing, just playing (first ticket in twenty five years too). It has worked great. I don't notice the noise over my exhaust note (listening to that exhaust note is definitely why I got the ticket). Just realize you will have to replace all fuel lines with high pressure hoses when you make the change. Kyle T
  25. I'm still undecided and flop back and forth between using a Carb or EFI. If I switch to a new carb it will be the M2008, and your postings will make a great difference, Thank You. Since you've been running it for three years now, do you regularly use gas with ethanol, and has it affected anything yet? My old 2V has always stunk up the garage for 4-5 days after driving it- until the gas has dried up in the bowl. At first I thought the smell was from the lawn mower, but after we moved to a house with an attached garage it was clear it was coming from the car. My wife calls it "Old Car Smell", and won't drive in it. It must have a leak but I've never been able to find it even with long duration bench testing. My primary reasons for changing to EFI would be to get rid of the smell, easier cold starting, and self tuning. I'm a little surprised at your low gas mileage- anything special going on with the cam or compression ratio? What would you recommend: Carb or EFI?
  26. Modified my plate with sections of pipe to clear. 3" all the way out.
  27. Can't believe I'm already on my 3rd summer running this carb. The engine really does run a lot better and smoother with it than it did with the Holley, and I can basically drive it out of the garage cold and the electric choke does it's job allowing me to drive off without letting it warm up a bit. With the Holley (also with electric choke), it was a drama queen ... stumbling & sputtering if I did not let it warm up for a few minutes. This 351W is still getting 8-9 MPG's ... I really thought the Annular Venturi's and Vacuum Secondaries would have made a difference. Doug
  28. There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess. One variant is specific with dual exhaust. I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them. Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off. Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.
  29. I was worried that the wire could get chafed and start a fire as it does not have a grommet for the hole you used on trunk floor.
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