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  2. Craig from New Zealand

  3. The heater core is not a happy job but like most things on a 40 yr old car it takes time (to much) I did mine for the second time in 40 years..... things did not get any better..
  4. Late model Mustang seat swap

    69Stanger408- at 6'7" I'm thinking you need one of these for your roof :)
  5. Late model Mustang seat swap

    What is the title of the thread? Tried to find same, no luck
  6. Might have to pull the heads

    In the pictures the spark plug at the left is a little wet. But you mention the spark plug at the right in the picture is number 4. They are both black with soot from a rich A/F mixture. Is that oil or fuel on the spark plug that is a little wet? Either way, aside from one being a little wet, why is it running so rich? Is there something strange happening with the oxygen sensor? When those fail, they typically fail by not cycling fast enough or fail by being stuck sending a lean signal to the computer (PCM, ECM, I don't know what aftermarket calls them). Does your EFI system have any self diagnosing capabilities? MSD can easily clean up spark plugs if there is a slightly rich condition. But even the dry spark plug is extremely rich. The porcelain usually looks fairly white with an MSD type ignition system.
  7. Late model Mustang seat swap

    There’s a fella over on VMF who has a pretty good thread going on with this exact topic. He too had to cut and make new risers
  8. Late model Mustang seat swap

    CG in TX - Assume you gained more head room as well? I am 6'7" so any new head room would be great. Do you have pics to share of the process, floor plates?
  9. Late model Mustang seat swap

    Has anyone tried to refit the rear seats?
  10. Late model Mustang seat swap

    Yes, cut out the risers, grind smooth, weld in a steel plate for extra support.
  11. A/C Condensor Dimensions OEM

    No problem . Get back to you in the morning as it’s late here in Australia.
  12. Door Glass Came Unglued Today

    As stated above you don't want to disturb the factory glue just rough it up. I had to shim my passenger side because the PO had messed it all up the channels were tapered 1/4" from top to bottom. Just be as careful as you can it's not that hard of a job to do, but time consuming to do it right. Once you start you'll figure it out. It's great to have doors that close like new from the factory & don't leak. DON'T forget to spray the inside with a rust inhibitor, clean everything of old grease, lube everything including the door lock mechanism while it's apart. It's not rocket science the worst you can do is need to buy a new or old channel.
  13. A/C Condensor Dimensions OEM

    Could you measure the condensor? Mine is a factory air car also the pump has been rebuilt & converted to r34 by Original Air.
  14. A/C Condensor Dimensions OEM

    Hi Bob , I purchased mine from Classic auto air and it fits perfect. I can take some photos if you want. My car was a factory air car but a previous owner had taken the under hood gear off at some time. I just purchased the under hood kit from Classic Auto Air that includes the sanded style compressor.
  15. 69 Mach 1 Stripe Application

    Going off the MM article is was pretty easy. Measure between the top and bottom door crease lines. Half that and thats the top of the stripe between the tires. Then place the rear one so its centred around the marker light and we ran a line from the top of the rear stripe to the top of the stripe on the front quarter. The stripes are tapered from front to back so they can only go on one way. The sides went on easy . The back stripes are tricky though.
  16. Might have to pull the heads

    My bad, the pcv is going to the EFI not the intake. Ill have to unplug the PCV and see what it does. yes the covers have baffles. PCV is on the passenger side rear and the breather is on the driver side front and is a filtered unit that is atmospheric. tonight i pulled the back two spark plugs as they have probably less than 100 miles on them. #4 looks heavily oil saturated right at the tip. the threads are dry. #8 isnt as bad, but there is wet oil going up the threads. i just did those as they were the worse from when i changed them and also will see if the oil is coming from the PCV and going right to the back side. Right is the #4
  17. Might have to pull the heads

    Simple question, do your valve covers have baffles in them to prevent oil splash into the PCV and breathers? Also, is the crankcase vented correctly? PCV in one valve cover and a breather vented to the air cleaner or atmosphere in the other valve cover? There is also the possibility the intake manifold gasket is leaking and pulling oil vapors from the crankcase into #4 intake port. With an MSD ignition system, the spark plugs should be fairly white. I don't believe #4 cylinder was firing. I think you can open the spark plug gap 0.010" over stock with the MSD ignition.
  18. 69 Mach 1 Stripe Application

    Perfect timing. Waiting for spring to put stripes on mine. Paint was done last year. Getting ready for the final touches. Great article I would never have suspected the rear strip sloped downward.
  19. Door Glass Came Unglued Today

    The video shown above is great. Very close to what you need. The one thing I learned the hard was was with the brackets and how they fit on the glass. If you clean out the old glue, chances are your bracket will have some amount of in and out movement on the glass. You can flex it. Nothing is there to center the bracket on the glass. If you glue it with the glass laying on the table, the bracket will hang down which will make your window proud to the door seal when you shut the door. I used the 3M product with the caulk gun. I would say its worth investing in the right tool. But with the glass laying down the bracket will have some level of movement up and down. Find the center of the bracket on the glass and either create the right size wedge or create a support that will hold it exactly in place as it dries. After one attempt, I was able to find the correct center up and down. When the door was back together I had a good fit to the body seal. My failed attempt the glass stuck out too far and even the adjustment at the bottom of the door was not enough to fix it.
  20. 70' Mach 1 351c

    Welcome Rob. Quite a few Mustangers in Texas. Good luck on your build.
  21. 69 Mach 1 / 408W

    Yes. There are 2 sizes. I used 3/8” for the starter. You also need to make sure you get a boot with it for both sides.
  22. Late model Mustang seat swap

    What do you mean cut out the seat platform...the seat riser? How did you reenforce the floor to support the seats?
  23. 70' Mach 1 351c

    Welcome aboard, this site serves as a good motivator
  24. 69 Mach 1 / 408W

    Thanks for the tip on the tray bolts. The lines have good separation, at least I hope so, the headers are ceramic coated so that should reduce SOME heat compared to conventional headers. Once it's all running I can add a heat shield if needed as they rest a-top the frame rails. For the power lug you used to feed the starter cable through the passenger floorpan, did you use this type?
  25. Could someone with factory air do me a favor measure the length, height & width of the condensor with a 24" radiator. Mine was punctured last year, I must have tossed it out can't find it anywhere. I'm going to look at a couple replacements that I can't return if I buy one of them. Thanks in advance for your time
  26. Might have to pull the heads

    engine run on is mainly tuning. leaking valves will have a negligible affect on that. you can have good compression and still have bad oil rings. if you get poofs of smoke out the breather with the pcv disconnected the rings are definitely bad. the pcv can make one plug more oily that the others, but if it is doing that, it may be getting splashed with oil. it needs to be covered with a shield. you can put new plugs in it then plug the pcv and drive it for a while. the pcv should go to the carb, not an intake port the oily plug can cause a misfire.
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