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  3. John, PM me your email, I will send you some pics
  4. Yesterday
  5. Looking great Vic! I sent you a pm last week. John
  6. I'd prefer a 351 but would be fine with anything. Cash in hand. Project or driver. I live in Nashville TN and will come get the right car. Ronnie
  7. I have a 3/4 rear bar and not really happy with the way it's set up. Instead of loops at the end of the bar that the bolt and rubbers go in to, it has a strait bar that a rubber bush clamps around. You slide the bush further it to make it stiffer. I was reversing around a very uneven driveway and heard a bang. The rubber had come off the end of the bar. A very poor set up. I will take your advice and try with the bar off. I may consider a thinner bar with the loop ends as well. Thanks Bob
  8. If I had over steer, I'd disconnect the rear sway at take it for a spin. I think that would solve your issue. I also have a 1-1/8" front bar and thought I'd need a rear bar, but it handles really nice and neutral with only the front bar. I've driven it hard without any over steer.
  9. The V-Band clamp on Vic's set-up really helped in getting the system in and out of the car numerous times. Once the over the axle portion was where is should be, the rest had to be finessed into position. There is a lot of clearance between the bars, nothing is close in this area. Now the tips, thats another story.
  10. This is great show and is easy to get to from many states. Carlisle Ford Nationals | Carlisle Events
  11. Did some final checks to make sure I don't need to drill any more holes in the body before the car goes to paint. I had to slightly open up the holes for the door handles with a hand file to get that damn sideways screw to clear and attach properly.
  12. Hey Mike, Happy New Year. We have about 2-3 inches of snow/sleet on the ground. But it's 29 degrees and we have lots of wind, so the real feel temperature is around 19 degrees. Good day to spend in the garage working on the car. I am actually pretty much out of stuff to do until I get the car to the painters. Looking forward to that. Assume you are in Virginia now? Hope the new house is working out. Carlisle Ford weekend is first week of June again. I was hoping to have the car ready by then, not sure I will make it.....
  13. The floor is screwed down to oak cross members. The amp cover is sourced from a Marine supplier, it is a hatch used on boats.
  14. That picture really shows it all. The drivers side exhaust needs to run in between the top, fixed bar (the black one) and the lower, movable bar (aluminum one). I didn't want to install a 4 link or Watts Link as you need to modify the trunk floor, and with a convertible, that trunk area interface is rare sheet metal and did not want to fuss with it.
  15. Vicfreg, That's some top-shelf work! Did you make the floor "floating" with the rest of the structures attached to it? Also, what is the source of that nifty amp cover lid you used? Neat stuff!
  16. nice, any more pictures how the exhaust was routed through the panhard bar? Im between using something like or going with SOT's rear coil over kit.
  17. Looks great Vic. How is the weather down there? It has been snowing here since 7:00am.
  18. I was supposed to start making them but the price for an original ,making the molds and the very big increase in fiberglass supplies and lack of time to do everything made me change my mind
  19. Jim: Are you still making and selling the 69/70 SS drip rail trim removal and installation tools? I would like to buy a set from you if you still have them available.

    Thanks,

    Alan

    1. Ridge Runner

      Ridge Runner

      I dont have any more

    2. Boss5Oh

      Boss5Oh

      Jim: Myself and one other looking to buy, interested in making a few?

  20. I had the same issue, and found a kit at Macs Auto Parts. I searched high and low.
  21. Paul, going back a bit to a mention in your post about "central locking". Can you explain what you did and post a few pictures. I am very interested in this. Thanks, Vic
  22. What kind of starter do you have. I have an AAW kit, and I am done with the install. Lots of info on my thread "1970 Convertible Restoration" - if you have a modern mini-starter, then you need to install a jumper between the solenoid and the starter. See attached for my starter, and starter wiring diagram. - Make sure you have a good ground at the starter. I ran a dedicated ground from the frame rail to the starter mounting bolt on the engine. - Check the wire #6 path to make sure there is continuity all the way to the starter solenoid. - Check your neutral safety switch wires (#5) to make sure they are connected properly and that the switch is working properly. Check to see if the wire is installed to the "S" connection on the starter solenoid (left one) - Check the ignition switch wires, 3A, 2B, 4AE to make sure the connections are good Hope this helps 555-10005.pdf starter power wiring.pdf
  23. I would of taken the gauge cluster and console if I hadn't already gone in a different direction. The Tach gauge cluster is worth a ton, and the console is not far behind.
  24. Serious! Those are great finds. No doubt you'll find a buyer in short order!
  25. Wow! Nice find. Talk about being in the right place at the right time...
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