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  2. I'm planning on it myself. I really like that the faces mimic the OEM look.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Stripes completed. Guess I may be building the motor too?
  5. I usually run it for a least 100 miles, but in your case, you should change it right away because of all the filings from the destroyed can lode and lifter that were inside the engine. I don't run synthetic in a new engine for at least 300 miles. I would also get a magnetic drain plug. In addition to the maknetic drain plug, you can also stick a fairly large magnet to the bottom of the ban near the drain plug.
  6. I had to stop by the shop after Chruch :)
  7. I am going to go ahead with the 69 hood with a 71 ram air top skin ,this will be a steel hood and later pull a mold so i can make them in fiberglass. I peeled the top skin off the 69 hood ,had a lite rust film in the inside of the underbracing so i took my little sand blast pot to it in a small spot just to see how it would clean up . It cleaned up very well with no pitting so this under brace is good to go . This is a very straight underbrace ,i will finish blasting it then i will epoxy primer before i put the 71 73 top on . I used my small angle grinder and ground through the edges of the 69 top ,the fold over only had 3 spot welds and two of them didnt hold .the peak of the hood had about 8 spot welds that i ground through and the top skin just fell off ,the glue ford had used let go a long time ago .
  8. The tanks inc tank is a larger capacity which will put the filler tube at a different angle. Your remedy of cutting the tube is what I did, and it worked perfect. However there is a after market tube that will work, that was made to correct this issue. I have seen them on ebay before .
  9. Thanks for the recommendation. I dont want to go though another cam issue. So far its doing great. Nice to have 8 cylinders again.
  10. The silver is a '69, the other one is hard to identify by the pictures. Refrence: https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html
  11. What type of mufflers are you using? Chambered mufflers, especially the small two chamber mufflers tend to cause resonating inside the cabin (more interior noise). Flowmaster's Delta Flow design chambered mufflers are a little better (less interior noise) than the non Delta Flow chambered mufflers with regards to resonating inside the cabin.
  12. So I'm doing my mock up for my EFI system. When I install the tank the fuel tank filler tube doesn't line up. This is a Tanks Inc. EFI fuel tank kit. So either the angle on the taillight panel that I replaced is wrong or the tank spout is in the wrong location. I have the tank pulled as far to the rear as possible. I thought maybe I could cut the filler tube shorter since the rubber adapter is flexible, but I'm not sure if that would correct this or not. I thought I read that the 70 filler tube is at less of an angle then the 69. Can anyone confirm?
  13. You may need 1/4 wave resonance tubes to kill the drone. There's a good post on VMF. Search for "Drone help" and see post #3 for the formula. A resonance tube is a specific length of exhaust pipe added behind the muffler. It branches off of the existing exhaust pipe and is a dead end. You calculate the length of pipe you need based on the speed the drone occurs. The sound wave zips down the pipe, bounces off the end and returns to the main pipe at exactly the same time that the next sound wave is coming down the pipe and they cancel each other out. Pretty nifty. We used to do the same thing to cancel out microwaves in microwave oven door seals- its the same principal and is called a 1/4 wave choke. Don't worry, its simple math and any good muffler shop can do it.
  14. did that, he got some of it out but being the metal came to a point it stretched too much
  15. Check with a local PDR shop to remove bump.
  16. There is a difference between the 69-70 and it doesn't matter if it's a automatic or manual. We build them daily. I can get you a picture on Monday
  17. Mal, sounds like you have exhaust drone issues. You can fit "J" pipes to your exhaust to help eliminate this problem, unfortunately you need to know where to fit them and the correct length, but worth doing some research into.Do you have a "X" or "H" pipe joining both exhausts together?
  18. When I’m cruising around Mal I find it ok but at idle it’s sometimes a bit annoying. I run extractors. Could be to do with resonance frequency at idle rpm though.
  19. Question re cabin drumming. I have iron manifolds with 2 1/4" pipes and balance tube on my 351 Cleveland. There is a bit of drumming when going up hills. I am thinking of going with extractors. Has anyone gone down this path and noticed the difference to drumming? Is it likely to get worse, reduce, or stay the same. I like loud, but drumming is annoying. Thanks,
  20. Pulled the distributor, thermostat, valve covers, intake, crank pulley and water pump. The distributor was stuck pretty good in the hole and took some work to get it loose. I wanted to get the intake off and dropped off to be cleaned & checked. Pulled the original ford water pump to verify my new Milodon aluminum pump was correct internally. It looks good for having sat for almost 33 years. In fact, I'd bet it just needs some cleaning externally and would be serviceable. The bearing feels as good as my new pump. I tossed the old thermostat, it was a windsor thermostat. The reason I had overheating issues from day one, didn't know better back then. The top side of the heads look pretty good for sitting so long. Some surface rust on intake side of cylinders 1 & 2 valve train parts and rocker pedestals.
  21. Manual brake bracket has the weld nuts on it as bolts attach from the engine side of firewall. Studs on power brake booster stick through firewall and get nuts on interior side of firewall. I think 70 pedal supports have a wider plate that interfaces with the lower dash than the 69 support otherwise they're the same.
  22. Not certain about how long to use break in oil. But after that, and before your winter storage, I'd run it and then store it with some Hot Rod and Classic Car oil from Lucus or Joe Gibs Racing. They have high zinc contents for flat tappet cams and are designed to cling to surfaces specifically for cars that are stored for long periods.
  23. Last week
  24. Thought I would write the final chapter on this one. Finally was able to dive into the engine. Bottom line it was a wiped cam lobe. The reason the lifter would not pump up is the cam had warn the lifter down so far that there was a hole in the bottom of the lifter. Oil would pump back out. So I was able to push on the top of the rocker and compress the lifter. There was no lobe left on the cam. almost machined completely round. Root cause of this was the fact that I installed a 302 pick up tube. New to building Ford engines I was fooled by the "small block Ford" designation. Fortunately I had so many rear seal leak issues that I constantly changed the oil and filter. I Must have washed all the bits out on a regular basis. One of my 5 replacements of the pan and seal I checked the bearings and all looked good, surprisingly.
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