Midlife

Bob needs to be able to read first...maybe he needs new glasses. As for the ultimate kill switch, I thought you meant something like this:

Red wire connects with big thick wire on one side of a splice; big thick wire and yellow wire goes on other side of splice. That big thick wire continues on to the starter solenoid, and the yellow wire goes into the VR connector and joins with the other yellow wire with the radio suppression capacitor via a bullet connector. The reason your battery is not charging is that you are missing the yellow wire going to the VR plug.

Funny...the shortened title on the main forum listing is "Who has an aftermarket bra"...

But what if you have two left feet, like I do?

Use the RidgeRunner (TM) tool to both remove and install, IIRC.

Nuts!

Looking for the two pin or three pin version? I have both, but the 3 pin connector itself will be missing at least one tab.

Run, don't walk, away from this hulk. It ain't worth anything, let alone the time you've already invested. Too much rust and things missing. OK, I did my part, RPM and RidgeRunner: it's now yours to fight over! You both can send me the $50 Amazon card. Thanks!

Yes, but you should not measure continuity between that socket pin and chassis ground. You can only measure voltage on each pin to verify proper operation.

How many times do I have to tell you? There is no ground on the 70 side marker lamps, only a difference in voltage between the brown (running lights) and the turn signals.

With the amount of money Craig from NZ has sunk into this car, I'm sure he's airmailing the car directly to NZ. Or, he can ask Rich/Rick/Whazzhisname to carry it across the ocean, since he obviously can walk on water. *G*

NPD carries them as well. Now then, the 1970 version of the door jamb connector uses 3 pins, and that connector is not reproduced. Out of well over 400 I've seen (covering 70-73 models), I've seen about 3 intact ones. The latches usually break off.

And that's why I recommend removing bulbs one at a time on each side to see where the problem socket lies/lays/laid/awww...scheiss! However you spell that damn word.

That doesn't work for side marker lights for 70's, as there is no ground for them: they use running lights/turn signals as the two leads. CV: plug back everything in and start removing bulbs one at a time: somewhere there's a bulb causing lines to cross. Once the bulb is out that fixes the problem, then that socket is where the problem is.

No, the side marker bulbs being out should not cause the turn signal indicate lamp to illuminate. 9V at the input to the dash cluster means you have a problem either in your turn signal or your underdash harness. It should either be 12 or 0V, depending upon the turn signal. It could also mean you have crossed filaments at the tail-lights. Do you get that 9V with the headlight switch fully disengaged? If so, your wiring is catiwaumpus.