Midlife

Sounds to me like the door latch and/or striker needs some tweaking to bring the rear of the door in.

Usually, the cable brackets mount on the motor mount bolts, not an oil pan bolt.

Good luck; you'll need it. Basically, from what I can see, almost every piece of metal will need to be replaced; some are near impossible to find. I would pass on this vehicle and use the 3500 bucks towards a better $7k base.

Sounds like a broken wire from headlight switch to fuse box (check back side of fuse clip, as that's where many wires break), or a faulty headlight switch.

Door panel lights are on the same circuit as sail panel lights; they need a ground via a ring connector at kick panel area. Your other lights are all dash lamp circuit lights, so a bad fuse, bad headlight switch, or headlight rheostat might be the issue there.

What to fix first? Make sure your checkbook and/or savings account is 3x larger than what you think it needs to be.

You're welcome. You can send the case of single malted scotch whiskey to the address on my website. *G*

Your dash cluster connector is for a tach dash cluster; what I provided earlier was for a non-tach dash cluster. Don't ever assume anything with Ford Mustangs!!! Here's the pin-outs for the tach set-up: Pin 13 is your alternator indicator lamp comparative signal.

Close. It'll work the same for 70.

Here's what your dash cluster connector pin-out is: Pin 11 is your CVR input.

Can they be used to belt my children?

What pretty toes you have! *G*

It can be arranged...*G*

The wires and sheathing are molded into both grommets, so simply finding a grommet isn't going to do you much good...

While coming home from a doctor's visit, we followed a car that had this bumper sticker on its rear...I'm still scratching my head about what it means...