Midlife

I've seen it done, but it looks "backyard", and I simply don't like it enough to pass onto my customers.

It ain't done until the Fat Lady sings, and I don't hear a song... Nice work, but it still needs a top coat.

Nope, I never pull pins out of molded connectors. Sure, why don't you can use that pair of connectors so long as you use both as pigtails spliced into your other harnesses such that the wire colors/functions are maintained. Electrons really don't care much about which pin it is going through, only that it seeks its proper home (function). I try and stay true to Ford designs, so if that particular model/year wants the big pin in the center, I cannibalize whatever I can to meet that design. That way, the customer can always rely upon the factory wiring diagrams, wire colors, and functions for guidance.

Yeah, be careful. One of the wires is 14 gauge; the others are 18 gauge. I would not recommend splicing a 14 gauge wire into a 18 gauge wire.

Why not crimp on bullet connectors so you can disconnect the two harnesses?

That appears to be the main power line for the headlight/interior/ignition system. Yeah, that helps to have that connected if you want anything to be energized.

And what was that wire?

Not that I am aware of. This part is in demand, and I believe I am all out, the last time I checked back in May. My gear is still in storage for another 6-8 weeks...

I'd piss on that deal.

Wow....that sending unit sure adds complexity to a standard Mustang. Now one has to route a 12V (fused) line and a ground, along with the standard sending unit line back to the fuel tank. That means pulling the rear seat, sides and door sill to route those wires back along with the standard tail-light. OK, the ground can be fashioned entirely at the rear. Now then, can the standard circuit card be used? I think so. Not entirely what I would do myself, just to get a better fuel gauge. I presume the gauge itself is now different, which means it probably is not compatible with the circuit card in a physical sense? Or is the sending unit 6/76 ohms close enough to fit the Ford gauge?

The factory CVR is a switching voltage supply, and that is not what you want. If you can find a CVR that is electronic and non-switching, and it is designed to replace the factory CVR, then it will be plug-n-play and no wiring modifications would be needed. If you do need to modify the wires, then you need to modify the circuit card as well, as it supplies voltage to the fuel gauge and receives the fuel sending unit signal, so you'll need to tap into that signal as well.

The CVR that snaps into a 9V battery terminal is not constant voltage, but is switching voltage quick enough to fool old-style gauges. It's on the back of the dash cluster, center section. That's not what you want. Some catalogs sell true 5V steady voltage regulators; if you can find them, go for it as it is plug-n-play even for the old style gauges. Yes, your 12V ignition for the radio is good enough for the gauge as well.

You need to splice into any ACC main power line. Look for a black/green thick wire near the ignition switch, or use the fuse buss extender off of the fuse box (it is the diagonal piece on the fuse box). Not all cars came with the buss extender, but WCCC and I can provide you one if your car doesn't have it.

Dat looks to be one tight fit!

Your first step is to examine the written estimate and all verbiage associated with that contract. From there, you can make a determination whether to consult a lawyer or not.