69volunteer

Not sure Biden has control of my local jobbers PPG prices but maybe. It is crazy how expensive stuff is--i dropped $200 for a quart of deltron recently--everything is expensive. I have painted multiple items over the years but never a full car (dashes, hard tops, etc). The last job was to blend in a fender bender on a race car and it actually turned out pretty good but I used single stage. I would not recommend painting an entire car your first time out. Looking at the pics particularly the quarter panel, you have some adhesion issues. Most shops are going to want to go down to bare metal to warranty the job which is not going to be cheap. I am in Dallas and imagine Austin is the same, check around, there are guys out there who are good that are getting started with their own shop and are more reasonable. if you want to haul it to Dallas, i can give you a contact here that is very reasonable--i think he painted the first Model T. You can check out my car he painted 10 years ago.

I believe I used Wesco performance for mine and havent had an issue other than the following: (1) i should have ordered a longer extension at the floor where the belt snaps into, mine is to short and I have to squeeze my fingers between the center console and the seat to unbuckle--i guess this doesnt apply if you dont have a console (2) the locking mechanism is pretty sensitive if you pull the belt too quickly. I dont recall what drop down I ordered but I can snap some pics if you would like.

HMM....that is interesting. I like that idea. Doesnt that open a whole can of worms? Its been a long time since I dug into mine but I would want to replace axle bearings, gaskets, etc I would need to swap over all my new brake hardware More importantly, I thought there were different axle widths--or is that just 9" from later mustangs? I like the idea as I would get a $75/core charge refund on my center section but maybe I could make more selling as a complete axle? Not sure it is really worth it though.

thanks

Do you know who the guy is? I havent been to Pate in a while. I assume C list in Parts? Engine is 302 stock with a 351 cam. This is a sunday cruiser so I am not worried about the 8" being able to handle the power. I forgot about RPM calcs, that is a good idea. This is juvenile but considering that I rarely drive it on the highway I would opt for a lower gear. I know 9" is what everyone talks about but I really dont think it is necessary for me. Car was completely restored 8 years ago (wow, time flies) and gets driven a couple thousand miles a year (sad, I know). C4 was also rebuilt by a trans shop I use, I seem to remember a 2200 stall but could be making that up. Thanks for the replies. There is a DFW stang website plus FB and I will see if anyone recommends local rebuilder/seller.

I am finally to the point (not really as my other project is not done) of swapping out the rear of my 8" on my 302 with a C4. Current ratio is 2.79. I think I would go to a posi with 3:55 gears. 1-any thoughts on gear ratio, I RARELY get on the highway so top speed is 50-60 mph around town. however I don't want to be screaming at 3000 rpms on the rare occasion I do; but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. Is 3:73 too low? 2-prices on 3rd member units (and everything) have gone way up since I last looked; Ive seen some on EBAY but are these ready to bolt in or do I still need to set the pre load etc? 3-should i look to swap out the ring and pinion on my existing one (would probably have a shop do this); it wont have posi and will probably cost more, right? 4-i could post on FB to find some Ford shops that sell re-built 8" in Dallas (might be easier to go pick it up). 9" is not in the picture, I dont want to have to deal with all the other things that go along with that swap and I have a mild 302. Let me know everyone's thoughts.

I believe they reproduce the 2 spoke wheel. I have considered getting a new one as mine the horn contact mech in the wheel has gone out (or something else havent dug too far into it yet). I would advise against the Grant wheel. The wood rim looks cool but the horn mech is an issue.

That has been rebuilt too but glad you brought that up. Something to look into.

When I restored my car 8 years ago, the pump always gave me trouble. It would all of a sudden stop adding power at slow speeds and I would have to crank the heck out of the wheel or it would whine when making a 3 point turn. I have had it rebuilt twice by local shops. I recently drove my friends 65 falcon and it was like driving Ms. Daisy. Nice! Before I scrap this setup all together, what replacement pump should I look for? My thought is those would be reasonable to swap out and not have to completely change everything. I was thinking something other than Rockauto or Napa but maybe that is the way to go? Thanks!

Why wouldnt you just pull the coil plug? For those of you who have 4 spd cars rest assured that a large chunk (and getting bigger every day) cant drive a stick 'so I got that going for me'. Not to mention even more people wouldnt know how to open the hood (where is the hood release on the driver kick panel?). I agree that a little piece of mine is still needed and have had similar cars that have little switches between the coil and the distrib hidden somewhere under the dash.

keep us posted on your EFI setup. What version did you end up using?

I believe you discarded the AN fitting an bra I believe you discarded the AN and braided line and going with 'factory'. Barnett--i like those fittings. Do you have a source?

also interested in the EFI tank.....

Very nice! Where are you located?

I think if you farm the work out to a machine shop, the rebuilt heads will be MORE than the eddy heads.