69volunteer

Why wouldnt you just pull the coil plug? For those of you who have 4 spd cars rest assured that a large chunk (and getting bigger every day) cant drive a stick 'so I got that going for me'. Not to mention even more people wouldnt know how to open the hood (where is the hood release on the driver kick panel?). I agree that a little piece of mine is still needed and have had similar cars that have little switches between the coil and the distrib hidden somewhere under the dash.

keep us posted on your EFI setup. What version did you end up using?

I believe you discarded the AN fitting an bra I believe you discarded the AN and braided line and going with 'factory'. Barnett--i like those fittings. Do you have a source?

also interested in the EFI tank.....

Very nice! Where are you located?

I think if you farm the work out to a machine shop, the rebuilt heads will be MORE than the eddy heads.

I also have a manual brake pedal from a 69 auto sitting in a box.

This says it all. I have been through one totaled car experience and while I EVENTUALLY ended up being satisfied, it was a beat down trying to convince the adjuster my 8.1 liter, 3/4 ton, all luxury items, 4x4 suburban was not the same as your run of the mill 2WD 1/2 ton. Granted we were only talking a few thousand dollars but comps for classics cars are all over the place.

Interesting! I also have Hagerty and have had them for over 10 years. I picked up another project recently (which is why I have not been on this forum lately) and my daughter is asking the same question about driving. Would also like to teach her how to drive a stick with this new project once its done. Thanks for alerting me to this....

I found a complete cluster with tach years ago, it was pricey then. I saw a 'period correct' hood mounted tach on a red 69 the other day. Talked to the guy and I cant remember where he said he got it but it looked awesome. Totally different look to the car. Good luck

Review all the threads about the after market senders. I tried 3 from various suppliers and they all read hot once the car warmed up. I bought a NOS off ebay for reasonable and that solved my problem.

Thanks for all the responses. Good to know.

Do this. I always put my engine and trans together on the stand and then using hoist and leveler slide into the car. With the back jacked up, it helps quite a bit. Never had to deal with headers. Like someone said. It is more preference. I typically pull engine and trans so I can service both and wrestling a trans (even an alum 4 speed) into the pilot bushing doesnt sound fun with a car on jack stands. Now if I had a trans jack or maybe a lift, that might change the equation. Lots of good suggestions here. I typically chase head bolt holes and intake to get good torque readings but neglect the exhaust. Good idea to tap all.

I only changed out the front shocks and the ride is softer. Roads in Dallas (maybe everywhere) are horrible and so every little bump was felt with a rattle. The monroe's feel softer which has limited (but not eliminated) my rattle. Obviously the rattle is another story I need to investigate. Dont get me wrong, I still would NOT describe this as a soft ride. I drove my friends 67 Camaro this weekend and his is a much smoother/Cadillac type ride. Granted his suspension is stock and probably original. No idea what shocks are on there. I really dont push this car through the turns so I couldnt say on handling--my guess would be more squishy. I had the excel G (says they are gas). Also says they are 'calibrated to compensate for old suspensions' https://www.cjponyparts.com/kyb-shock-front-excel-g-1965-1970/p/KYGR1/

Looking at a car being sold as a 347 stroker. Wondering if there were tell tale signs by just looking at it. I like the idea of something down the spark plug hole when piston is at BDC...not sure seller would go for that. I guess the best way to tell would be the kick in the seat of the pants when on the gas.