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copb8

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copb8 last won the day on October 5 2018

copb8 had the most liked content!

About copb8

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    Super Stanger'

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  • Location
    Highland Village (Dallas), TX
  • Interests
    Cars (contemporary and classic), track days, boating & dual-sport motorcycling

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  1. Here's his website. There's a link to find a retailer near you. I see it's sold everywhere including Amazon https://www.dcmustang.com/index.html
  2. Just keep the original seats for the next owner. If he's gung-ho on all original you'll have him covered.
  3. I hope you have better luck finding a reasonable solution than I did. I have a 70 w/351C, PS, FMX, and aftermarket A/C and haven't been able to find a straightforward bolt-on solution other than one vendor at Good Guys telling me I could go to a serpentine belt system and replace the front end of the motor to do it. Uh....no.
  4. It's one thing to lose a new car that easily replaced but I just can't imagine how sickening this is with the time and energy you must have invested in it. I know people only say it's 'stuff' but these things are still pretty important to us. My heart goes out to you.
  5. BTW, I have Gary's VintageLED's rear sequential lights and haven't found them to be pixelated. He has some many lights on the board it seems to bleed together. Just my opinion though.
  6. My search skills must SUCK! I have spent days working out an issue with the rear lights on my '70, including a day and half this weekend and as soon as the problem is resolved (I think) I find this AWESOME thread explaining the whole thing. I used fuzzy 1970 wiring diagrams with no explanation and wondered what was going on with the way things were wired. Not being a wiring/electrical guru added about triple the time to work things out. Thank goodness for this boards help. The good news (??) is that since I have a '70 I'll probably be addressing the issues again and now I'll have this help. Belated thanks for posting.
  7. Not sure if I should be happy or not. While digging under the dash and locating the 4 pin connector I was pulling and tugging and making sure the connector was plugged in well. I really didn't think I did anything but now my lights are working!! Of course I was skeptical that if I jiggled the wires again they'd stop working again but so far they haven't. I've pulled and tugged and wiggled the wires under the dash and everything is still perfect. So do I just count my blessings and move on? BTW, that plug is buried and a pain to get your hands on. Regarding conduit, car had a repaint and it looks like the conduit was added then.
  8. Thanks for this Midlife. A couple of questions. I need to find which run of the wire is bad. When you say there's a connector between the rear tail lights and the under-dash harness are you referring to the curved connector at the base of the steering column? Or is there another one? And if so where would I find it? I pulled the door sill and just visually the wire run looks intact and the wires are encased in some plastic conduit.
  9. Ran a continuity test from the car side pin of the green-orange wire to the bulb pin of the rear light and didn't get anything so it looks like there a break somewhere along that line. Weird that it would just happen without anything else being done to the car.
  10. Spent some time troubleshooting today. Pulled the steering wheel and ran the tester on on the contacts. The Green-Orange wire is the circuit that's not working. I was able to follow the current all the way through the switch. I also used the right side (Orange-Blue) circuit as a test as it is functional. Best I can tell everything in the hub is working as expected. I then when down the column and disconnected the curved connector. The horn wire is always hot on the car side. I made a test wire with 2 alligator clamps on each side and clipped on end on the hot pin of the horn. I took the other end and clipped first to the Orange-blue of the passenger turn signal light and it came on. When I did the same to the driver signal light I got nothing. So it looks like I have some type of break between the column connector and the rear light fixture. I looked in the trunk and the wires look in decent condition with no signs of a break but that's not conclusive. I was wondering if there are any more connectors in the run of the wiring loom? From the wiring diagram I'm looking at it doesn't appear to be. I assume that wiring harness runs somehow from under the dash through the rocker panel tunnel and then up and over the wheel well. Anything to look for there?
  11. Lanky, any chance you have some type of issue with your steering column/steering wheel itself? Can anyone comment on the brand of replacement switch that has worked well for them? I was going to order the one sold by Summit.
  12. Yep, I get it now. I'll pull the steering wheel and run some tests. Thanks again.
  13. Did a little more poking around today. I verified that the Vintage LED unit is fine and that I'm simply not getting power to it. I have a question regarding the suggestion that it may be the turn signal switch, I didn't mention originally that the brake light on that side isn't working it. With that information could the turn signal switch still be the culprit?
  14. If the front signal works would that switch still be suspect?
  15. My driver's side brake light and turn signal have stopped working. Passenger side is working fine so I assume it's not a fuse. I have a set of vintage LED's rear lights that have worked perfectly to date and I 'think' are working fine still. I used a 12v tester to poke into the rear light wires and it seems that I'm not getting any juice to the unit. I am detecting voltage on my running light wire so I know the tester is working. Where would you start looking for the failure in this circuit?
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