SweellTrex

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere.
 
So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come.
 
Dave

Well here is the best rolling shot of the Rally IMHO...Guy was literally hanging out of the photo car on the pass side taking rolling shots..dude was about 4-6" from his knuckles drabbing the ground doing 70mph...makes for cool photos tho...hes printing me up a canvas and poster

Well Mike, if I had done the repairs back in 1999 when this project was started it would have been metal finished. However, since there is body filler all around that area I went ahead and used some Bondo. It's only 1/8" max there which is acceptable. I thought about welding in a small piece of metal but didn't want to possibly heat the filler and have it fail later.

This morning was the first since I don't know when, when there was not a single spam post.  OMG! 

Just curious why it was down for 10 or so days...I so missed my Russian spam!

was wondering if someone would be able to chop in some different style wheels for me. Looking for some type of modern racing wheel and also a torque thrust style. thinking about 16"

 
 

So, I wanted a cool GIF Avatar so I could be cool like all you cool guys (you guys are so cool, lol)
I made something up, but could not shrink it down. Regardless...it looks pretty cool...
 

 

Better yet. Billet Aluminum. Bet it would cost a fortune but it would be really cool.
 
Those year one gauges are nice looking, They did a good job making them almost look like the originals.
 
I remember seeing a Gauge face that was made out of brushed Nickel with brushed copper lettering and Billet aluminum Bezels. It was different but definitely cool. It had blue back lighting that just made the copper pop.

So cool! Necessity is the mother of invention (or modification).

After 10yrs of sitting I'm finally going to start working on my 69 Sportsroof. Going to restore my engine compartment and I'm removing everything so I can clean, strip and paint it.
 
How does the plug at the firewall come apart? Also can anyone recommend a new front wiring harness? I'm going to replace it because it's very stiff and brittle. I saw a factory replacement by Alloy Metal Products (AMP) from CJ Pony for $213 or they have an upgraded version by American Autowire for like $649. Should I go back factory or do the upgraded one? I don't plan on adding anything fancy but I guess down the road it's possible.
 
Also does anyone have any advise or suggestions to add while I'm into this under hood project?

From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 1999. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!
Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...
YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.
 
Bob
 
 

Making some suspension and brakes progress. Pretty much done with the front arms, need to do shock mount and sway bar mount. Welded up the 4 rear bars, Need to get some coil overs to make this thing a roller.
 

 

Does anyone know the color coding on the passenger door speaker wiring from the dash harness.
1969 Mach 1 AM/FM. Thanks

When I read about Shaun's convertible inner rocker install over at VMF, I was hooked and decided to do it along with the one piece seat riser. I had already removed the stock seat risers because the NPD Ventura phone sales guy said the conv and sportsroof were the same height. This after I axed him to compare the two. I found out otherwise when I went to pick them up. You don't need a tape measure when they're side by side. Because the conv seat riser raises the seats by one inch, I figured I could just splice in the center hump piece which goes over the tunnel. After measuring twice I cut into it. A the center piece is 1" higher than the stock risers, I made several relief cuts in it and bent down the hump ends and tacked them. Surprisingly I only had to add one small filler wedge piece on each side.
 
The inner conv rockers were fairly easy to install, just time consuming. I can't imagine doing them without a rotisserie. The fun part was welding a zillion plug and tack welds.
 
Crap, shoulda uploaded all my pics when I had the chance :(
 
Bob

The driver side seat in my 69 Mach 1 is for a 70. The seat back release lever is down low next the the hinge. Is it possible to convert the 70 seat to a 69 by relocating the release lever up to the middle area of the seat back? I won't be home for another couple of months otherwise I'd take it apart and see for myself. I know I haven't seen parts for that release mechanism available....only the frames and tracks for the most part.

WARNING: This thread is for BEGINNERS. If you are a pro and have been wrenching for years, you might as well not even read this. I’m not a pro and started this thread for those like me with limited mechanical experience who is tired of paying someone $80/hr. to work on our cars. If you are a pro and you wish to read, please only leave comments if they are constructive. Like I said I know I am no pro and don’t need someone pointing out my ineptitude.

 
This install is of the Borgeson Power Steering Upgrade Kit supposed to be designed to use with a stock power steering pump.

Day 1: Removal of the Power Steering Control Valve

Special Tools Required:
Tie Rod Separator (AKA Pickle Fork)

Today wasn’t as productive as I would have liked it to have been. I spent the better part of my time assessing the situation before turning a wrench. Not to mention I had to take care of some work issues, I work from home so it makes working on projects difficult at times.

1) The first step is to disconnect all power steering lines from the steering ram and the power steering control valve. I had one line where the line nut was rounded so I simply cut the rubber power steering line. The kit comes with two new lines so I wasn’t concerned.

2) With the power steering lines removed and, if you are like me, power steering fluid everywhere, the next step is to remove the three bolts holding the steering ram to the frame. Be sure to have a pan under the ram as power steering fluid will pour out of the holes where the lines used to be.

3) Lower the arm out of the way, you now have access to the cotter pin and castle nut attaching the power steering control valve to the pitman arm. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut.

4) There is a “rotating stop pin†which runs through the end of the control valve and the threaded arm it’s attached to, it’s located near where the clamp is. My pin was missing. Remove this pin.

5) Remove the bolt through the clamp at the end of the power steering control valve.

6) Use the pickle fork to separate the pitman arm from the power steering control valve. The simply unscrew the control valve from the threaded steering rod.

That’s all I was able to accomplish today and where I ran into an issue. I didn’t have a socket to fit the pitman arm nut attached to the steering box. A 1 ¼†socket was too small. I believe it’s a 1 ½†socket that is required.

Next steps should be unbolting the rag joint and steering box. I will probably remove the steering box with the pitman arm attached, thinking it would be easier to use the pitman arm puller out in the open instead of wedged under the car.

I should be able to get started on Day 2 on Thursday.

All original and in great condition except the foam needs replaced. I was going to reupholster them but decided to buy new seats from TMI. I have a new set of TMI seat covers included. $650.00 I would prefer not to ship. These would be a bear to ship and the cost would be crazy money I am sure.
 

I need the drivers side only or a matched  pair if you have them.
 
 
Thanks

Took my car to it's first car show this Saturday inside Texas Motor Speedway for the Good Guys Classic Car Show. The weather was absolutely beautiful. Went with a friend of mine who took his '69 Shelby GT500. He has 4 mustangs and whom I hold personally libel for the purchase and any pain my car's cause me. :-)
 
There were well over a 1000 cars there and some very nice Mustangs as well. If fact, the same beautiful red '70 Mach 1 that was there last year was there again. Funny thing was, this car and one other custom Buick Electra, were the only cars I took pictures of last year. I just always lusted after the 69-70 Mach 1's. I'd be curious if the owner of that car was on this forum.
 
Here's a pic of when we first arrived. After some time it filled completely in and was PACKED. I have to say I was shocked at how many cars were already in place by the time we pulled in at 8:15. I thought we'd beat the crowd. NOT!
 

 
Owner of Shelby to the right

For sale... Professionaly rebuilt SB C6 automatic transmission w/shift kit, CJ 8 stud Converter and flexplate , ARP bolts...$800..or Best Offer.......also for sale: automatic trans crossmember...$75.00, Lokar down shift cable, $40.00, complete rebuilt automatic shifter,fits 69-73...$200, coolant lines $30....driveshaft...$100...will make package deal for all.........e-mail...njjoeh@optonline.net

The time has come to get a new floor jack.  My crappy old, small craftsman won't hold up much anymore, and it's never had enough vertical lift.
 
I don't have a ton of floor space, so I'd like one that isn't too huge when not in use, and slides under tight spaces, and lifts plenty high.
 
What floor jacks do you guys have and what are some good features to look for?
 
Also,  What jack points do you guys use in the front of the car?  The frame is rather high up off the ground, so with the jack I have had, I can't even lift the wheel off the ground if I jack on the frame.  I usually wind up jacking on the frame near the eccentric bolts or literally on the lower control arm (especially if I just wanna get a wheel off the ground).
 
If you have any advice on what jack to get, and where you like to use it on the car, I'd love to hear some advice.
 
Thanks!
 
Jay

My how things can change....
 
Sold my shop...no place to go until my new shop is built in the spring.
the last time the car spent the winter outside was 1987.. 

You hear lots of tales about stuff that went on at Shelby, stuff off the books and such. I really wonder about the validity of some in 1968, as Ford took over production. Shelby was a wild card, but Ford was a little more straight laced.

I have bought a couple of 69/70 Mustang/Cougar steering wheels on eBay, in pretty poor condition, for the sole purpose of manufacturing some 14 inch wheels, but still dressed as our beloved Mach1 rim blow wheels.
 
It is a pity they pull so much money, since even the scrubby examples I managed to get are expensive.  Crazy when they will be test-bed items for fitting and finish choices.
 
On that point - let me know if you have old wheels you no longer have a use for.  At this point I will focus on 3-spoke wheels, but eventually I believe it wil be possible for me to create a 14 inch Mustang rim blow from a decent 2-spoke center hub. (By replacing the two spokes with the three spoke arrangement)/
 
Opinions needed for rim thickness, and material, and finish
 
The wheels are a steel framework with a phenolic/plastic type resin molding applied over the framework.  The rear hoop of the rim is the same color to match the interior trim (Black, Red, Blue, Green Ginger....etc)  The front hoop is artificially grained and painted to resemble wood grain.
The rim is almost universally regarded as too thin.  The wheel diameter is 15 inches, and many feel it is clumsy and too large for modern driving styles.  No 14 inch wheels are available commercially to mimic the rim blow style and trim levels.
 
The  available options for the rim material are timber, or "resin" with many versions and options for that process. 
At this early stage I would like opinions on desired sizes for the rim thickness and material finishes.
Rivets or no rivets?
 
I intend for the rim blow switch to be incorporated, of course
 
 

"Overkill".....exactly!