~ 1969 Building the mighty 428CJ : Tips and Tricks

[Raven R code 281]

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere.

 

So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come.

 

Dave

[barnett468 418]

nice!

 

1. install a 70 holley main jet in the oil feed hole in head to the rocker arms

 

2. radius/chamfer the holes on the oil filter adapter mounting pad on the block.

 

3. use a cobra jet oil pan. they hold more oil

 

4. use a "cobra jet" oil filter adapter . it is on the right

 

[Brian Conway 272]

   Nickle dime but you asked.  Rear main seal seems to be a re-occurring problem.  Bring motor to TDC when installing fuel pump.  Makes it a little easier.  Check for clearance at the timing cover internals and timing chain.  May need to Dremel trim a bit at the top.  Check that the oil pump pick up is deep enough for the pan your using.  If using a windage tray ?  Check that the dip stick will penetrate that tray.  Double check head oil drainage and maybe open the rear hole a bit.  Intake manifold heat shield is in place.  I left my heat cross over open, intake manifold, some prefer them closed.  Test fit the intake manifold with gaskets and bolts before gooping everything up.  Machined heads and block surfaces sometimes makes for a mismatch.  Just heard about this one; check the water pump for an impeller blade.  I also silicone seal the paper gasket at the back plate.  Cheap insurance.  Brian 

[Raven R code 281]

Another thing my builder said was to apply gasket sealer to one side of the gasket and let it cure overnight. He said if you don't, you chance squeezing all the RTV out to a thinner coating.

[Raven R code 281]

nice!1. install a 70 holley main jet in the oil feed hole in head to the rocker arms2. radius/chamfer the holes on the oil filter adapter mounting pad on the block.3. use a cobra jet oil pan. they hold more oil4. use a "cobra jet" oil filter adapter . it is on the right

I have 2 through 4 covered already. On number 2, I think it is mentioned to cut the filter adapter gasket to clear out the area covering the 2 long ovals.

[1969_Mach1 334]

For any press in type oil galley plugs, don't forget to stake the block in four places with a chisel after the pug is installed.  Otherwise, pretty good chance of the oil pressure pushing out the plug.

 

Priming hydraulic lifters before installing them can sometimes cause them to hold valves open. The motor then runs terrible and maybe pops through the carb until the lifters bleed down. 

[jholmes217 65]

The cam plug at the back goes in opposite way the other plugs go in.  Block off the intake manifold heat crossover unless you plan to drive it cold weather.  It will help with keeping the carb cool.  if using exhaust manifolds instead of headers, don't use gaskets, but use a small amount of high heat gasket sealer.  If using headers, use Remflex gaskets.  Lots less risk of leaks.  When it comes time to drop the motor in, I think it's easier to do it with the headers and tranny attached.  You may want to take the master cylinder and brake booster out before hand.  Make sure all internal parts and the cylinder walls are very clean before installing.  Also, I like to put a magnetic oil pan plug in, and also put a magnet on the end of the oil pump pick-up tube.  Helps keep any metal from break in from getting to the oil pump or circulating in the engine.

[barnett468 418]

Another thing my builder said was to apply gasket sealer to one side of the gasket and let it cure overnight. He said if you don't, you chance squeezing all the RTV out to a thinner coating.

which gasket?

[Raven R code 281]

I think it was most gaskets....oil pain water pump and I think head gasket. I will double check.

[barnett468 418]

I think it was most gaskets....oil pain water pump and I think head gasket. I will double check.

that makes no sense and wont work so you are missing something he said.

[Max Power 74]

For any press in type oil galley plugs, don't forget to stake the block in four places with a chisel after the pug is installed.  Otherwise, pretty good chance of the oil pressure pushing out the plug.

Or tap them and fill them with pipe plugs. That's what I do.

[Raven R code 281]

which gasket?

Intake Gasket is the only Gasket to coat one side , let set for a day, and them coat the other side(with sealer).

[Raven R code 281]

Anyone use Motorcraft TA-31 RTV? Thoughts? 30 yrs ago I remember a gasket sealer with an Indian head.....is that stuff still around?

[barnett468 418]

Intake Gasket is the only Gasket to coat one side , let set for a day, and them coat the other side(with sealer).

 

 

insufficient info and wrong way to do it.

[Max Power 74]

insufficient info and wrong way to do it.

Not helpful

[barnett468 418]

Not helpful

 

yes it is.

[Mach1 Driver 597]

Anyone use Motorcraft TA-31 RTV? Thoughts? 30 yrs ago I remember a gasket sealer with an Indian head.....is that stuff still around?

 

not my thumbnail

[barnett468 418]

Anyone use Motorcraft TA-31 RTV? Thoughts? 30 yrs ago I remember a gasket sealer with an Indian head.....is that stuff still around?

 

i use gaskacinch on the head side and gray permatex ultra high temp sealer on the intake side of soft gaskets . sometimes i use the cork end seals and sometimes i dont . i use only the silicone on the factory style gaskets because they lock into the head gaskets and won't move . i would not use schellac but others might.

[Raven R code 281]

Getting the power plant together. Everything going well so far. At the point of installing rocker arm shafts and lifters. Can anyone help out with the process of checking clearances for pushrods? I didn't "preload" lifters by pumping/ priming them with oil. I do remember that part but what is next?

 

Thanks,

Dave

[Caseyrhe 650]

The best I can remember, the rods should spin easily with no tension, but not have any up to down movement. Most important thing I remember is priming it first with an old dist shaft and getting the pressure up, drop in distributer and let her rip, over 2 grand first 30 min

[barnett468 418]

Did you put a main jet in the head to reduce oil flow?

[Raven R code 281]

Did you put a main jet in the head to reduce oil flow?

What is that? Where do I got one?

 

Thanks,

Dave

[1969_Mach1 334]

Getting the power plant together. Everything going well so far. At the point of installing rocker arm shafts and lifters. Can anyone help out with the process of checking clearances for pushrods? I didn't "preload" lifters by pumping/ priming them with oil. I do remember that part but what is next?

 

Thanks,

Dave

 

I don't know if that picture is current so I am basing my comments on that picture.  You can disregard if that picture is not current.

 

Before installing any of the valve train stuff, install the timing chain and gear set.  And before the cam gear is installed make certain you have all galley plugs installed and stake the block for the press in plugs, and install the camshaft thrust plate.  After this stuff is complete move to the top end of the motor.

 

 

From that same picture, you may have already noticed the intake manifold needs to be installed before the pushrods and rocker arms.

[jholmes217 65]

What is that? Where do I got one?

 

Thanks,

Dave

On FE engine heads, one of the holes were the rocker stand bolts go is different, and you will see 2 holes when you look into it.  One hole is were the bolt goes, and the other is an oil passage.  Many FE guys think too much oil is going to the rockers, so they put a Holley carb jet in that oil passage hole.  It is a perfect fit.  I have size 70 jets in mine.  You will get different answers on what size jet to use.  Also, the bolts that are used to secure the rocker shafts are different sizes.  3 per head will be one size, and 1 per head will be different.  The different one goes in the hole with the oil passage.

[Raven R code 281]

I don't know if that picture is current so I am basing my comments on that picture.  You can disregard if that picture is not current.

 

Before installing any of the valve train stuff, install the timing chain and gear set.  And before the cam gear is installed make certain you have all galley plugs installed and stake the block for the press in plugs, and install the camshaft thrust plate.  After this stuff is complete move to the top end of the motor.

 

 

From that same picture, you may have already noticed the intake manifold needs to be installed before the pushrods and rocker arms.

I'm purposely not installing the intake at this point. I find it easier to check clearances without the intake on. Once everything checks out ok, I will number the pushrods and then remove....install the intake....and then pushrods again.