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Machspeed last won the day on February 28

Machspeed had the most liked content!

About Machspeed

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 01/16/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northeast Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Family, Faith, Tennis, my Mustang and too many other things to list.

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  • Yahoo


  • Location
  • Interests
    Wife, Kids, 69 Mustang, and all American Musclecars!
  • Occupation
  1. Gulfstream Aqua, my!!!
  2. Last month was slow and little time to work on Queenie. Family reunion, Mid-American Mustang/Shelby meet, and honey do stuff, which of course, is the biggest priority. There is much truth to the saying, "happy wife, happy life". Did have some fun at the Mustang/Shelby meet, as my brother brought his recently restored 70 Boss 302 up. The car had not been on a track since the restoration so he took it out to both the speedway and the drags to see how it would do. The car is an original Boss 302 that is, contour people, don't look...... resto modded tastefully. Under the hood is a 600 HP Boss 302 that flat out screams. While it has plenty of power, he doesn't have enough rubber under it to keep it on the track, especially at the drags. At the drags he couldn't get out of first and second gear and when he hit third, the rear came out from under it and he almost slammed the wall. Scared the crap out of me just watching. After that pass, he promptly loaded it up on the trailer. That single pass run was 14.20 at 115 MPH. Next year, good rubber. He did manage to win a 1st place in his class at the car show. The car is eye candy to the max. Anyway, I did manage to remove the entire front end which, I might add, was quite the chore. With the exception of the driver's side spindle, everything up front was what Ford put on her back in 69. Breaking those upper and lower control arms from the spindle proved to be the most difficult part but was ultimately resolved with about $10 worth of parts from my local hardware store. This gleaned from Dazed Cars website whom I think credits Mustang Steve for it. With this little tool, I was able to remove both the UCA and the LCA, with the UCA giving me the most grief. That and some PBA blaster, I might add. Great stuff! After much wrenching and banging, nothing like the sound of that pop when it breaks loose. With that done and the front end components removed, I am attending to the "B" patch modification which I will follow up with by drilling the support for the Arning drop. I'm going to do this a little different though, as I don't like the lip of the frame rail sticking up causing a water trap. Since this picture I have shaved that area of the frame down so it sits almost flush with the bottom of the B patch. Waiting on some rust encapsulator so hopefully by next week this ill be welded in.
  3. If this turns out anything like the Candy Apple Red Mach, and I have no reason to doubt that, those will be two beauties sitting side by side. You pulled off an incredible restoration with that CA Mach. Looking forward to the transformation of this one.
  4. So sorry, Mike. I know that pain. Wish you and your family the best. John
  5. Awesome Matt, I like stories like yours! Was your car bought brand new by your grandparents? How old was it in that picture?
  6. Ahhhh, great find! Love it when it works out like that.
  7. Looking forward to seeing their response, Mike. Please post. I'm considering the same route as you and have had some private conversation with Matt (MN69Grande) on this as well. Thanks again, Matt.
  8. Thanks Jim, but I have almost all of the sealer removed. Want something now that I can spray on it to wipe out the residual to access clean metal. Don't care if it damages paint. I've tried lacquer thinner, didn't do much.
  9. Spent most of yesterday cleaning out the sealer in my front and rear window channels. Not a fun freak'in job! And, anybody that says Ford did not use in sealer around the gasket of the rear window does not know what they are talking about. Read this in a couple posts. Still have more cleaning to do. Can anyone recommend a product that will cut that sealer such that I can wipe it out of the channels? I've scraped most of it.
  10. Anyone plan on attending this event: Have a brother that will be racing his newly restored 70 Boss 302 both at the road race and at the drags.
  11. Ohhhhh, and btw, does anyone produce a repop on the plastic inserts for these scoops? Not finding them, but may have overlooked.
  12. Last week I was removing my side scoops and noted a depression in the upper aft corner of both scoops. I had never noticed this before and I've owned the car since the mid 70's. Saw a like post on this, just posted the other day, at the concours mustang forum but wanted to bring it here as well. Can't believe I would have overlooked this all these years. Thinking I may fill them in. Thoughts and comments on this?
  13. That is precisely what my brother said! And, if cheap arse Bob sprung for new glass, that means something! Seriously, thanks fella!!!
  14. I spent a lot of time researching "how to" information on removal of the stainless trim and glass on my 69 stang. They don't make that trim like they used to and used OEM stuff is expensive, thus I wanted to salvage it all. While everything went well, for the most part, I wished now I had known what I know now before I started. Could have saved me a ton of time and a few dollars. Trim removal with the right tools is really quite beneficial. Here's what I used or at least started with: The paint stick has a wedge I cut into it to help slide under the stainless to raise it a bit for access to the retaining clips and to prevent damage to the trim. The flash light helped, on occasion, to better see the retaining clips though it really isn't needed as one can utilize the bottom two tools to feel out the location of the individual clips. The important tools are the bottom tools which I researched off the web. The very bottom tool was highly rated and there is even a YouTube video of a gentleman removing the front window trim on his 60's model Mustang. I started with this tool and chipped my windshield trying to use it. Frankly, by far, the better tool is the Lisle tool above it. It made quick and easy work of the removal of those retaining clips. Highly advise one go with the Lisle tool. The rear trim removal was not near as easy as the front, this because of the underlying gasket and sealant, with the latter being the biggest issue. Not only do the clips retain the trim but the sealant acts like a glue and thus has retention qualities as well. With that hardened gasket, I really struggled to get my tool under the trim and locate the individual clips. Knowing where they are helps: I started from the bottom and worked my way around to the top. To better access the clips with my tool, I sprayed WD-40 under the trim which facilitated the ease of getting the tool in between the gasket and the trim. It worked for that purpose but better than that and unbeknownst to me at the time, the WD-40 acted as a solvent to soften the sealant reducing it's adhesive qualities. I spent a good hour getting nowhere until I used that WD-40. Below is a picture of the softened sealant and my tool of choice for lifting the trim. You can see some of the residual sealant adhering to the trim. Removal of the glass was not bad. I removed the rear first. With the stainless trim off, one can see the gasket, which is really what wraps and holds the glass. That and the sealant. I simply took a Razor knife to the upper lip of the gasket and cut it out. From there, one merely needs to push the back glass out from the inside. That took fifteen minutes with the help of my son gently pushing from the inside. The windshield was not the big nightmare I was expecting. Because the WD-40 worked out so well on the rear glass, I sprayed the perimeter of the glass with it the night before. The same stuff that seals the rear window seals the front. The next day, I fabricated the following tool from some Acetal rod and some .080 timmer line. Before I secured the line to the inside pull handle, I pushed the end under the glass through the softened adhesive and to the inside of the car. With me working on the outside and my son working on the inside, we pulled together along the perimeter of the glass, more or less, cutting the adhesive. We went around the perimeter twice. After that, my son positioned himself on one side of the car and me on the other, pushing in unison from the inside at the top of the glass, slowly pushing it outward. The glass came out without issue or incident. The removal of that windshield didn't take but thirty minutes. I've taken so much from this forum and out of gratitude, I hope some might find this useful. Thanks!!!
  15. Have not posted much but have been continually working at things. Last weekend removed the remaining interior components and all the exterior window molding and the drip rail molding. Chipped the windshield in a spot while attempting to remove the trim. The chip would likely be covered by the molding but now I'm contemplating replacing it. My brother assures me that while the windshield may look good, once back in after the new paint and all, every imperfection will stick out like a sore thumb. He states that I will notice issues with it, as he did his in the resto of his Boss 302. Brother even recommends I replace my door glass as well. If I do that, good time to go with the bolt in stuff over the current glue in. Pricey upgrade though. In the picture you can see the above chip. This done with a tool that I acquired for the specific purpose of removing the trim. Everybody raved about this tool and there is even a U-Tube video on it. I found a better tool for the job and think I will post in the How To's regarding that trim removal along with the glass removal. Anyway, with the other tool, I removed the front window trim quickly and quite easily. That was not the case with back window trim, as the gasket makes things a little more challenging, not to mention that the sealant also adheres to the trim which was really the bigger issue. This past weekend, Memorial Day weekend.....GOD bless our troops, I, along with the help of my son, removed all the glass. Back glass is easier than the front but, surprisingly, the front was really not that bad. You can check that process out in the How To's later. Anyway, glass came out without a hitch. To ready the car for the rotisserie, I lack removal of the fuel tank, rearend assembly and some front suspension components. Think I'll build that rotisserie next though.