Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


JayEstes last won the day on January 8

JayEstes had the most liked content!

About JayEstes

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'


  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, mechanic at heart
  • Location
    Friendswood, TX
  • Occupation
    NASA employee

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. JayEstes

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    I have 15x7 235’s up front and have no issues. I went with old school Cragers tho. Hope it works out for you. The 8’s in back will look great. I also got the Cooper cobras and I’m very happy with them.
  2. JayEstes

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Yes, well said. quailty that even looks sort of original. Fantastic job.
  3. Thanks, Jay.  I tried to send a message to Dennyb68 through the 69stang site.  It said he had not visited the site since 2016.  I assume he will have to visit the site to see my message?  And ideas how I might track him down?  Thank you.


    Jack Wheeler

    1. JayEstes


      If the guy still has email notices on the acct, he might see a post directed at him- not sure- that’s what I was hoping.

      I lost my catch in my rebuild.  Kicked my own ass a few times for that - so I feel your pain.  I Finally found a guy who sent one in NOS box for next to nothing.  Looks like you’ve got a lead or two to follow- hope something works out.


  4. JayEstes

    Glove Box Door Catch

    See this thread, see if you can contact Dennyb68 user. He reported back in 2013 he had some in boxes..
  5. JayEstes

    AC vent rebuild

    I use sticky back Velcro (loop side), and the vents are nice and snug now. It’s a good solution. I have a word of warning for you after you remove the back ring from the pot metal housing. The rivets that hold the back ring to the pot metal housing are steel. The pot metal is significantly softer than steel (see if you can guess where this is going). So, if you drill the heads or grind them off, there is a steel stud stuck in the pot metal exactly where you want to put a screw after you’ve done the refurb. This became a real issue for me. The pot metal louvers don’t have a straight edge on them, so I couldn’t get it properly aligned with a drill press to drill this stud out. All the hand drilling I did wandered off the stud and into the pot metal - this became a real issue for me. I would up getting small holes kind of off to one side although there is *very* little metal around the studs, and kind of rotated the ring to mount. It was less than perfect and not very satisfying to me - not lined up like I would like (but won’t leak air). Nobody will really see this, so it’s ok, but I still hate the way it worked out. Possible solutions? I would try much harder to PULL the studs out someway. I drilled mine, and as I said, eventually, because nothing is straight anywhere, your drill gets off to the side, and you have a non centered hole. If you can pull the rivets out somehow, it would leave a centered hole which you could tap. Otherwise, just be aware of the situation, and start with as small a drill as you can, and do what you can to stay in the center of the steel stud to drill it out. It’s a PITA.
  6. JayEstes

    Brake warning switch trivia

    Helpful, if not a tad tedious as all damn electrical problems are! Thanks for the info.
  7. you know, regarding the plastic pieces for the steer wheel components, I *might* be able to model those in CAD and then print them in plastic on my 3D printer.

    Would you be willing to send all the pieces from a broken one so I can get precise measurements?  Not sure if my printer can create strong enough pieces, or if they will be precise enough, but I'd be willing to give it a try in my spare time.  This solution won't be fast however, and there is no guarantee it will work.  No cost to you.

  8. JayEstes

    Home Shop Air System upgrades - help

    I haven't heard of air cooler like this before, but I assume this is better for shooting paint/HVLP or something, most tools don't seem to care. It would seem to me that the copper coil is a better option in either case - even if you didn't put it in a bath, if would work as well as copper on the wall I think. Seems like a T joint near the bottom with some kind of collector with a drain valve as seen on most compressor systems should work. The rigid copper on the wall seems like a rather expensive option with lots of labor for all those sweated on elbows and joints... Please keep us posted on what you do - this is an interesting build.
  9. JayEstes

    Vulcanet Car detailing wipes

    Whats a good link to buy online for US customers?
  10. JayEstes

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Nice job. Just your cars?
  11. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    Yeah, this is all in a parking lot. I wouldn't want any speed to go with it. I've seen enough of those cringy videos already. Not going there!
  12. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    I may resemble that dumbass.... It's not something I would ever use much. I don't think. Just one of those occasional "show-off" things. I think the circuit in the rear (aft of the new valve) would be quiescent. With pressure blocked by the valve, I think it would be the same as with no foot on the pedal. I think the prop valve would respond normally. As pressure builds when I hit the brake, it would believe normal pressure was going all the way back to the rears when it's actually being stopped at the valve. There would be no flow thru the rear line at all with valve closed, so it might feel different, not sure. As master cylinder is providing pressure I believe it should release fine. At least I can't think of a reason it wouldn't.
  13. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    Yes, it probably would work. I would rather not get electricity involved. I am thinking of an in-line ball-valve like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-Tube-SS-Ball-Valve-3000-Psig-Hoke-7122G2S/323575748064?epid=0&hash=item4b569e15e0:g:YPsAAOSwmkBcAQYo I drill a hole in the hump wall next to the drivers seat and insert the valve, torque the nut down and pinch the floor between the valve body and the nut for a solid mounting, then cut the steel-line and then double flare both ends, hook up to the valve. To use: just reach between the hump and seat and shut em off. In my way of thinking you would leave pressure off the system - say while in park - lock out the rears with the ball valve, and then you are free to brake with fronts only...
  14. OK, here's a crazy question. I am wondering if anyone has devised a lockout switch for the rear brakes - one that can be thrown at will from inside? The single rear brake line follows the drivers side of the transmission hump, and I am wondering if anyone has installed any kind of hydraulic ball-valve to lock-out the rear brakes? Confession: the motivation is a rear wheel burn out. I'm attending a Concourse show late spring, and the best thing about the show is they let the mustangs/muscle cars burn the tires the day we exit the show. The sponsors encourage last day attendees to hang around and line the exit, and all the cars interested can "smoke-em while you leave". It was a ton of fun last time with both side of the exit row lined with Cheering fans, and so I would like to "enhance" my ability to smoke em in place. Not something I do all the time obviously, but I thought it would reduce abuse on the drums (I literally hate each and every time I have to re-work the rear drums). I am fully aware this will increase the abuse on the tires, but boys will be boys ya know.... Any thoughts? Dumb idea? Reasons it won't function right? etc. I'd still have the e-brake backup system with the hydraulic lines cut-out.
  15. Guys, question about your Hagerty rates. My premiums went up ~20% this year - out of the blue. It is the beginning of my 3rd year, and I haven't made a claim, however, I was in the Harvey flood zone on the TX coast. I asked a rep about the rise, and he didn't really have any answers other than a casual "yeah, well, seems like we had some significant losses there....". So, I found a deal with identical coverage (on paper at least) at https://americancollectors.com. I'm switching. Curious if Hagerty had rates rise across the board, or if it is basically them saying "we want to be out of the coastal risk area". Did your rates go up, and how much? Any bad stories around American Collectors? Hagerty was good to deal with but I want that $100/year for parts thank you very much.... Thanks for any feedback... Jay