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JayEstes last won the day on January 8

JayEstes had the most liked content!

About JayEstes

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'


  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, mechanic at heart
  • Location
    Friendswood, TX
  • Occupation
    NASA employee

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  1. JayEstes

    Vulcanet Car detailing wipes

    Whats a good link to buy online for US customers?
  2. JayEstes

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    Nice job. Just your cars?
  3. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    Yeah, this is all in a parking lot. I wouldn't want any speed to go with it. I've seen enough of those cringy videos already. Not going there!
  4. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    I may resemble that dumbass.... It's not something I would ever use much. I don't think. Just one of those occasional "show-off" things. I think the circuit in the rear (aft of the new valve) would be quiescent. With pressure blocked by the valve, I think it would be the same as with no foot on the pedal. I think the prop valve would respond normally. As pressure builds when I hit the brake, it would believe normal pressure was going all the way back to the rears when it's actually being stopped at the valve. There would be no flow thru the rear line at all with valve closed, so it might feel different, not sure. As master cylinder is providing pressure I believe it should release fine. At least I can't think of a reason it wouldn't.
  5. JayEstes

    Rear drum lockout system?

    Yes, it probably would work. I would rather not get electricity involved. I am thinking of an in-line ball-valve like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-Tube-SS-Ball-Valve-3000-Psig-Hoke-7122G2S/323575748064?epid=0&hash=item4b569e15e0:g:YPsAAOSwmkBcAQYo I drill a hole in the hump wall next to the drivers seat and insert the valve, torque the nut down and pinch the floor between the valve body and the nut for a solid mounting, then cut the steel-line and then double flare both ends, hook up to the valve. To use: just reach between the hump and seat and shut em off. In my way of thinking you would leave pressure off the system - say while in park - lock out the rears with the ball valve, and then you are free to brake with fronts only...
  6. OK, here's a crazy question. I am wondering if anyone has devised a lockout switch for the rear brakes - one that can be thrown at will from inside? The single rear brake line follows the drivers side of the transmission hump, and I am wondering if anyone has installed any kind of hydraulic ball-valve to lock-out the rear brakes? Confession: the motivation is a rear wheel burn out. I'm attending a Concourse show late spring, and the best thing about the show is they let the mustangs/muscle cars burn the tires the day we exit the show. The sponsors encourage last day attendees to hang around and line the exit, and all the cars interested can "smoke-em while you leave". It was a ton of fun last time with both side of the exit row lined with Cheering fans, and so I would like to "enhance" my ability to smoke em in place. Not something I do all the time obviously, but I thought it would reduce abuse on the drums (I literally hate each and every time I have to re-work the rear drums). I am fully aware this will increase the abuse on the tires, but boys will be boys ya know.... Any thoughts? Dumb idea? Reasons it won't function right? etc. I'd still have the e-brake backup system with the hydraulic lines cut-out.
  7. Guys, question about your Hagerty rates. My premiums went up ~20% this year - out of the blue. It is the beginning of my 3rd year, and I haven't made a claim, however, I was in the Harvey flood zone on the TX coast. I asked a rep about the rise, and he didn't really have any answers other than a casual "yeah, well, seems like we had some significant losses there....". So, I found a deal with identical coverage (on paper at least) at https://americancollectors.com. I'm switching. Curious if Hagerty had rates rise across the board, or if it is basically them saying "we want to be out of the coastal risk area". Did your rates go up, and how much? Any bad stories around American Collectors? Hagerty was good to deal with but I want that $100/year for parts thank you very much.... Thanks for any feedback... Jay
  8. JayEstes

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    My buddy used that on his 55 packard and that stuff is fantastic! For fuel- quite a bit better than a steel line.
  9. JayEstes

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    Yes, those copper conical washers are "flare savers". They are used in AN fitttings. I don't have much experience using them, but they might make a good solution for sealing stainless lines. You have to keep in mind that the male side of these things is BRASS (e.g brake distribution block), so when you just tighten the F out of them, you can damage the brass parts (it's not cheap to get a new one either). This is one of the most commonly reporting problems with stainless lines is the double flares don't seal well (stainless is stronger & less ductile). I think the flare saver is probably the best idea. It's softer than brass, and will conform to both the line and the mounting surface without damaging either. For me, I'm sticking with the softer steel lines that seal more easily.
  10. JayEstes

    Why are oil pans so darn expensive?

    I think the main reason for high cost is limited suppliers. There's not a huge demand, so hardly anyone makes one. Also, it's a pretty dramatic stamping from sheetmetal, and to get that right with a perfect sealing edge around the pan is not necessarily easy. It does seem like a ridiculous price, but hardly anyone has the capabilities to make them new.
  11. JayEstes

    1969 Heater Box Question

    Verrry nice work
  12. Guys- Has anyone out there used on of these devices? https://hotronicsproducts.com/battery-disconnect/ This is a device that hooks between the positive battery terminal and the solenoid. It's high amp capable and has a remote switch you can throw (install in a secret but handy place near the driver somewhere) to cut power to Solenoid. I really like the idea of having the "zero battery drain" potential (even this that is not a problem in my car at the current time), but also, it gives you a secret place to throw a switch to enable starting. Maybe a little bit of security in that. Curious what you guys think, cause I really like this concept, and I am considering getting myself one.
  13. As long as there is no paint around you are worried about getting ruined, after using a scraper, and a wire brush where I could, I used a scotchbrite pad soaked in lacquer thinner ("cleanup thinner" at your local paint store). As I go I have a roll of paper towels to do the final wipe down, once I get the stuff off. A gallon of thinner will go a long ways and is about $10. Scotchbrite with this solvent is "super effective" on just about anything you put it on. The scratching effects of the pad combined with the thinner are an amazing pair. It's messy, and make sure there is no good paint nearby, cause it will ruin just about any applied paint. Good luck finding any gloves that will protect your hands from this. thick PVC gloves are probably best.
  14. IDK, maybe I am biased, but damn - that year of mustang is just one. awesome. looking. vehicle. ;-)