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JayEstes

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JayEstes last won the day on August 2 2020

JayEstes had the most liked content!

About JayEstes

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    Super Stanger'

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  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, mechanic at heart
  • Location
    Friendswood, TX
  • Occupation
    NASA employee

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  1. well I didn't see this this listed, so I'm going to throw it out there. I got rid of all rust, and primed and re-painted the spots. Then I cleaned everything well with lacquer thinner lightly - it removes oil and softens up the paint a little. then I used rattle can truckbed liner. The stuff I used left a very hard finish, and it seems tough as nails. It's been about 4-5 yrs now, and I'm very pleased with the results - it doesn't seem to hold dirt very much. It made a nice even coating underneath too that hides blemishes. I put sound deadening on the inside. Anyway, I've ben really happy with the results, and would recommend it for a simpler durable solution.
  2. Looks great! harnesses hook to original? No mods anywhere to put them in?
  3. This is an interesting topic. I'm curious what the reasons are for this? it obviously changes the inertia of the flywheel having 3/4 lb more weight on it near the extremities. But the weight is balanced, so it's not inducing side to side loads, jsut loads in the form or torque. But it's just an attachment plate between engine and trans, so those things should dominate the torque felt by the engine. What does this heavier flywheel do to the engine? Can anyone explain the issues it creates in more detail? Just curious. I'm not looking to run any experiments here.
  4. When I did my rebuild, I pulled out all carpet, seats, belts - everything I could unbolt. After vacuuming and just cleaning it with usual stuff, I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with. But there was a lot of seam sealer (which is like a semi-hardened tar that has body paint on most of it) around. I didn't want to sand everything off and besides, a lot of the paint was in decent shape - why remove it? So what I did was the following: I got a 1in putty knife, some really tough PVC gloves, some scotchbrite pads, and a 5 gallon bucket of "clean-up thinner" (Laquer Thinner) from a local paint supply store. After getting dirt off and isolating areas of rust, I used the putty knife to remove most of the seam sealer (60-70%% of which was either flaking off, or sticking to things it shouldn't be). Then, I used the scotchbrite dipped in a small bowl of thinner, to clean areas where the sealer had been removed and clean and rough up the painted areas. Laquer thinner will remove the paint if allowed to stay on there very long, so I used it lightly, and would clean the surface, and rough it up with the scotchbrite, and immediately wipe it off with a rag so it didn't wrinkle the remaining paint/primer. This left a really clean, primer ready surface. This worked great for getting the remaining seam sealer off, and it got the paint prepped to receive primer over the top, leaving the good original paint/primer in place. The use of a scotchbrite pad soaked in laquer thinner is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen, it cuts thru everything (oil/ grease, dirt grime, paint). It is pure hell on gloves and hands, so get a couple pair of gloves as even a pair of PVC gloves will harden after several sessions of use. Obvious caveats go with this process for respirators and fans. Laquer thinner is a strong chemical. After that, I just resealed the seams with orderly beads of paintable silicon caulk, and then I used rattle can automotive primer over everything. Making damn sure not to paint over anything resembling rust or its semi-hidden effects. I always ground any of that down and put the primer on bare metal once rust was gone. I put on at least 2 coats of primer everywhere, then put down dyna-mat for sound deadening everywhere. This was a fairly long process, but a lot better than trying to remove everything (remember, in my case most of the floor was in good shape). The floor looked great after this, and I think it was a nice medium restore option that left good parts of the car in place, but re-did everything else as best I could. Trying to remove everything with anything less than a full-body dip is a ton more work than it is worth. Hope this addresses your question, and you find some of these tips helpful. It wasn't super fast, but I was really happy with the results, and I felt like the effort was focused where it was needed.
  5. okay one caution - maybe the other guys didn't have the problem I did, but I ground off the rivets (which are steel I believe) - no problem. then I cleaned and prepped everything and put in the velcro - no problem. However, the housings that the rivets were inserted into are pot metal (very soft) much softer than the steel rivets. So when I went to drill them out and tap for new screws, my drill slid off the center of the steel rivet and went down into the soft pot-metal. This caused them to be misaligned a little, and it was less than satisfying (thats what she said). perhaps if I had drilled out the rivets all the way down instead of grinding initially, everything woulda been groovy. Anyway - don't just grind off the heads - drill out the steel rivets while you can - right up front of the activity.
  6. Are there any rumors about a calendar for 21? I could use something that helps me look forward to next month a little....
  7. That's a perfect stripe for the 69 right there. Very well done!! Best I've seen
  8. just in general, machines should not generate shavings - ever. You need to find out what is interfering and eliminate it - it could just be "tolerances" on your 3rd party wheel so it might not be a big deal, but you don't want those shavings around the steering wheel. They can get into other joints and cause some real wear problems. The contacts circled are where the shavings are coming from - there should be rounded smoothed edges where these make contact. Looks like they are scraping a jagged edge somewhere on the wheel
  9. Ya know, that just makes all us original floor guys jealous... Could you try to be less obvious about how much better that is? Really, it's not making my life any better... ;-) I busted my ass to get my half-ass, sort of ok, patchy-weldy floor into the "acceptable" range.
  10. Yeah. I take the blame on this one. At the time- I honestly didn’t know any better, was not thinking it thru and didn’t think about it hard enough. Weird that it didn’t give a problem from the beginning and only became an issues after years working like that. You know what they say- “life is tough- but it’s tougher if you’re stupid” Jay
  11. There was more done to the harness to enable tach, it’s currently unused in the dash, but the only thing that came into the engine compartment was the red “pwr” wire. I had Randy rework ALL my harnesses, and please bear in mind I need to plead some ignorance here as I have the mods in, but have not implemented them...
  12. OK, well a verdict is in, although, I am going to admit - as is usually the case between me and electricity - I found something that makes it work fine, but I'm not 100% sure why it did what it did. So, I had my harnesses refurb by Midlife which I think is still one of the best decisions I made. When I had him do the engine harness, I had him add a line for the tach. Now I haven't had a tach put in since, and it is not wired to a tach. I understood this to be tach power, so I ran it to the positive terminal harness and hooked to 12V power there (this could have been a problem that I did that - I don't know how the tach is configured, but assumed this "tach power" red wire needed to go the +12V). So it was hooked up to the + terminal - it has been that way since I put it in, I've had essentially zero elec problems since I put the thing back together ~2016 or so. But I never had a tach.... I also suspected the NSS so I removed and cleaned it - I did find some heat damage from the new dual exhaust, but upon inspection, no shorts in that cable. I jumpered over the NSS switch just in case for the rest of the troubleshooting. So what I found was really odd - stumbled onto it this way: I hooked up my battery charger, because I thought I could drive out the problem if I did - the car would generally start when jumped. Put the thing in 50A mode... It cycles on/off because the batt is saying full. I get the car cranking, and as I do- I crank, then stop, then crank, then stop. Did this about half a dozen times and I notice a spark at the base of the positive terminal right on the battery. Battery is bad I thought! How could a good battery spark at the +post! gotta be a bad battery. Swap the battery and it seemed to go away initially, however I cranked/stopped something like 10x and then I see the SAME spark at the +post of the battery. OKAY this is the car somehow - not a bad batt. Removal inspection showed that little tach power wire was tied down right where the sparking was occurring. Now, I do not know what has happened, but initially I was like well, it must be shorted to ground somewhere in the car because if I remove it, everything is fine. Car runs/starts normally all other functions are restored. In thinking about it since finding the problem - There is a very good chance I did something stupid by hooking up that wire, but that is definitely what I thought I needed to do at the time I put it in. Also, if that wire was occasionally short, WHY would the thing spark at the positive terminal post?? Shouldn't it spark at the location where it touches ground? Maybe not, because the tach end at the instrument cluster was left free. Taped-up, but free. Anyway, I now believe one of two things occurred: That wire is hooked up properly, but is hitting ground somewhere, and was draining my current to crank the starter, and run ACC circuit. I made a mistake hooking up the "tach power" line and should have left it unattached until a tach went in. SO, in summary - it's running again, but the logic of how I got a spark at the battery post really baffles me. So me and mr electricity are back in our respective corners - catchng our breath for the next round.... How crazy is that?
  13. thx yes. I'm doing that tomorrow. My charger still thinks it's fully charged, but maybe it's got a weird failure where it only reports full charge, but has no real charge when you need it. Tonight I did put the charger on 50A charge for a second and tried to crank - not a peep out of the solenoid. HOWEVER the NSS switch and cable were removed so I think that's not a good test. I am so fed up with this dang problem.
  14. what kind of carb do you have? If you have an original, you could have an accel pump diaphragm failure which leaks fuel all over the intake. It would be obvious though if you look at carb - I had standing pools of fuel on the pockets on the top of the intake, and the smell was bad.
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