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JayEstes

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JayEstes last won the day on May 19

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About JayEstes

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    Super Stanger'

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  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, mechanic at heart
  • Location
    Friendswood, TX
  • Occupation
    NASA employee

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  1. wow, that powder coat looks perfect. Can you let us know what specification (color/material etc) you gave the shop to get that finish? it looks like exactly the dark charcoal color of the original paint.
  2. Evaporust is good too. Should work great. Just clean the hell out it with chemicals before you paint. Laquer thinner applied via clean rag to get all oils off is what I always do.
  3. Regarding painting the engine: I think you definitely want to kill that rust on the engine block. I use this spray on acid “osphor” that I get at my local hardware store. Just spray in on the surface and let it sit for several hours or overnight. Then I use a wire brush wheel to clean all of it off I can, then hand wire brush tight spaces, then I clean the surface with laquer thinner right before I put the paint on. I recently repainted my intake (while installed) like this and it came out nice- paint seems to be sticking well (I only used 500deg duplo rattle can for this- approx 3 coats.)
  4. Be careful changing out the hood scoop bolts. My scoop is old enough that it is easy to strip them out. I had to repair one. Point is, the old fiberglass scoops are delicate at this stage.
  5. engine compartment walls could use some cleaning and paint. Maybe some Ni/Cu brakes lines bent and installed. And while you've got that stuff out, I'd suggest a full rebuild of the steering and suspension... I mean, you know, SINCE you're in there.
  6. I would call the manufacturer and ask. If you're trying to replace only the proportioning valve in the factory system, then it seems like it would make sense to take the line on the lower left (which has I think full brake pressure from MC), and send it into the new prop valve (the brass cylinder is the old prop valve) and then go back into the dist block on top, second from left (directly above output to rear brakes). I suspect the prop valve for the rears on a rear disc system has to step the pressure down even more than the old prop valve (since the disc brakes are much more effective than the old drums). I'm basically just guessing here though on how to use the Baer system - better to find out from them. I would definitely NOT lose the original prop valve or gut it. They can be easily rebuilt, and are rather expensive and hard to find. Gutting the valve doesn't make sense to me since you will now lose the internals, which is just as bad as losing the whole thing.
  7. I recently rebuilt my bendix booster and got some great advice about a vendor that handles our mustang parts alot: Booster Steve Power Brake Booster Exchange 503-238-8882 I realize you are looking for aftermarket, but you might be able to pick up a nicely done rebuild from these specialists. After rebuilding my booster, and putting in a new MC, the brakes on my car have never been better. (Especially nice while I was doing relatively stationary burn-outs leaving the car show yesterday...) Honestly, they might have some good advice on a modern replacement if you give them a call and ask. They were very helpful to me when I called. One thing I learned was that our bendix boosters have a 2 part MC push rod. It has a nice ~1in diameter flat deep inside the booster, and the front half comes out easily when you replace the front seal. All the repro push-rods are one piece, and the two part piece isn't remanufactured anywhere.
  8. Finished the brake system rebuild today! I put a write-up with pics here: The post-finish test-drive was the best part.. Noticeably Improved braking and the system doesn't look like hell anymore.
  9. Welp, Hate to admit it but I didn't take the advice to paint instead - I did use the 2 part clear epoxy over bare metal, and I am pretty happy I did (at least for now). Results attached below, but these parts came out great. I also put the clear on the new master cylinder, as well as it's gold cap, and I polished up the brass dist block and covered it too to keep the bright finish. All the parts look fantastic - a wire brush will remove it all if I find some reason it's not working out. To follow up on a few things. I was able to de-rust and wirebrush the original MC push rod. Mine is all original, and the replacements don't come in two pieces anymore. The new seal that came was night and tight, so any pitting is not an issue. Using "osphor" to de-rust, then following up with a wire brush wheel did a great job on both the booster and the push rod. The guys at brake booster exchange were a lot of help with advice. The seal kit from NPD combined with the glass-smooth finish on the booster make a perfect seal around the push rod and against the booster and at the vacuum inlet line. On the test drive today, I have noticeably better braking action, I suspect because of the improved booster seal. Could also be due to new MC. Also, my brake lines and tube nuts looked like hell (rusted and paint coming off) so I replaced several of the lines with the new corrosion-proof Cu-Ni-Fe tubes. I bought stainless tube nuts on amazon and they are fantastic. If you are ever replacing brake lines, I would never put in anything but the Cu-Ni-Fe stuff (85% copper and 13%Ni, rest Iron & other stuff). It is just wonderful for flaring, sealing against the anti-flares, and is corrosion proof. It's exactly the right material for this job. It tests out at almost 9000 psi, so plenty for braking. Anyway, pics attached. Below is what it looked like before I started (Man - am I embarrassed this was on my car!) And that's a WRAP FOLKS! Happy Easter btw guys!
  10. I have a few random thoughts: I'm not sure how similar the pressures and airflow are inside the intake -vs- inside the valve cover. If different at all it might affect the performance of the PCV. There's obviously a lot more fuel in the intake than in the valve covers. Will exposure to ethanol in the gas ruin the PCV? If the PCV vents, will you smell the gas? Surely a statement of the obvious: You would have to drill the intake off the engine, otherwise - metal shards in the engine. IDK. Seems like a big change. I've not seen it done, but not saying it can't be done.
  11. Believe me brother... It has been 2 1/2 years, and every time I think about the cash I laid out to get that 3stage put on the car, I cringe with pain. Just the supplies alone were $3K. I'm happy with it, but damn it - I hope I never need anything re-done. I bought the wheels I wanted to put on the thing back in high-school but could never afford...Crager SS's. I still think they are the definition of chrome wheels... Apologies for the thread hijack - back to regular programming. Thanks for the link to the rebuild kit! I will look into that.
  12. Seems dumb to reply with this, but man... I got nothing. I had mine done professionally, and it still leaks. I would like to do a kit again myself, but I have no idea about it. I would just encourage you to write up the rebuild here because some of the rest of us could use the data. PS: By the way, that's a beautiful red you have on your car ;-). Ford's Ruby red metallic by any chance? (That's what I put on mine)
  13. Thanks for thoughts guys - I will let you know which way I go. In the mean-time, I found that west coast classic cougar has the front seal for a bendix booster by itself (repro) for $10: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/16984/30151/front-seal-bendix-brake-booster-repro-1969-1970-mercury-cougar-/-1969-1970-ford-mustang.html?attribs=80 I bought the whole kit at NPD, but this is a good option if you just want a new front seal. I was looking for a new push rod - mine is kind of pitted, but nobody sells the kind I have anymore. They gave me a good contact for a place to rebuild boosters who was helpful. "Booster Steve" in Washington state I believe. Their business info is: Power Brake Booster Exchange 503-238-8882
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