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JayEstes

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JayEstes last won the day on May 19 2019

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About JayEstes

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    Super Stanger'

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  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, mechanic at heart
  • Location
    Friendswood, TX
  • Occupation
    NASA employee

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  1. Sydney is a beautiful place, but I'll stick to my 1/3 cost here in Texas. In California, I have paid over $4/gal, so we've got some of that ridiculousness here in the US. All that extra cost just goes to the government - the fuel itself is really inexpensive. I paid $1.83 last time I filled up....
  2. Wow. amazing work - spoiler LED is awesome. Now forgive me for being nosey, but that "garage" you've pulled her into... looks more like a living room!? Maybe you just knocked the wall between garage and living room down? Congrats if that's simply the garage - nicest one I've seen in awhile.
  3. I put sequential LED's in the back.... and ALSO in the hood scoop! I really like the sequential blinkers and I have had no issues at all with the system.
  4. Well, it's a long shot - and this was posted a long time ago, but I just saw it - but you might find something that can substitute for it on McMaster-Carr website: https://www.mcmaster.com/springs Look under the torsion springs section, and see if you can find one with about the right strength and length. You may need to modify one or both ends of the spring to make it work in your application. Hope it helps!
  5. Oh the irony of having an engine so big that you can't put in good brakes!..... Good luck - without the extra pressure created by the booster, you're going to need an entirely different kind of MC. Not sure I have seen one, but there must be one out here somewhere.
  6. In neutral, only the torque convertor in the transmission is rotating, so a vibration could theoretically be setup by having the torque converter out of balance, or improperly bolted up to the flex plate. Bottom line, look for replaced or repaired parts that are rotating while in neutral as these items could be causing an out of balance rotation, and hence vibration. I would say yes, the trans should mount solidly. If it is not solidly in it base, the engine is sitting on two mounts on the sides and could tend to oscillate without the 3rd hard point of the transmission mount. I agree with Mach1 above.
  7. Here's a different thought. I believe the vibration could be a drive train alignment issue. If the transmission was removed and replaced, did they put in a new mount and if so was it the correct one? If possible, I would start looking at the alignment of the components. If you get the transmission misplaced when mounted, the drive shaft angles (relative to transmission on one end and differential on the other) change slightly, and it's possible that the different configuration can have harmonic frequencies that set-up vibrations. with a situation like this, you can have all the right parts in there, but still have an unacceptable performance due to the physical alignment of the parts. I would search this forum for "drive shaft misalignments" and see what you can find.
  8. Man, that is some pretty paint! I'd check with west coast classic cougar. They cover our model of mustang, and they tend to have a bunch of old cars they can pull this stuff from (cougars are about 70-80 same as our cars anyway). Drip rail extension doesn't pop up under parts they have in the catalog, but I bet if you called them, or emailed with a picture of the part they could hope locate one.
  9. I used a shop in Alvin, Tx for my body work and paint. Going on 3 years, I don't have a single complaint. Place is called "Gulf Coast Custom & Collision". Guy name Rich runs the place, and he has some really skilled hands for classic work. Did my whole car the right way in about 5 months. Not cheap, but I've seen people pay more for less quality. Highly recommended. This is not a full up restoration shop, it's paint & body wor.k
  10. That's a stop for the window mechanism. I'm not sure if it's a down stop or an up stop (or both) for the mechanism, but I believe this lets you limit the travel up or down. Turns out I have one of these for the passenger side quarter that I haven't put in yet (still need to).
  11. Biggest contributor to squeaks in restos I have heard of are folks that put in poly bumpers instead of sticking with standard rubber. Strut rods, sway braces, LCA tie rods and possibly spring perches. I've also read stories of poly strut rod bushing causing failure in the strut rods down the road. Main problem though is generally squeaky operation when suspension is moving a significant amount. Did you use poly bushings?
  12. I still have my original bendix booster, and I haven't gone "inside". There are three places for leaks, one along the MC push rod - I think mine was leaking here a fair bit, but also between the seal and the housing. By cleaning off and painting the outside of the booster, refurbishing the MC push rod and lubricating it I got a noticeable improvement in boost. the other place you can leak is where vacuum tube connects to booster. I replace that seal too. I'd double check these seals before I bought a whole new booster or had one rebuilt. Inside, my is just fine, and has never been apart.
  13. I would have to say yes. I can lock mine up, and it’s not that big of a problem. It takes a lot of force, but it should lock up. In my system, when I removed the booster, cleaned and painted it, and paid special attention to the cleaning and painting the exterior of the recessed portion that the seal “seals against” & also replaced that seal with new, my boost was much greater, and the pedal noticeably harder. if you have rebuilt the valve in your dist block and put new o-rings in there and cleaned the heck out of it, along with the booster, and the lines are free and clear - the system should be able to lock the wheels no problem. You also should clean and rebuild the rear distribution valve, as if that is leaking, it can weaken your brake pressure.
  14. Here's my take - some of that may be reasonable and some of it definitely is not. For instance, it's definitely not a good recommendation to put in performance suspension & handling for $5K. That's NOT mandatory. You can get new stock UCA's for lass than $50 per side (that's a lot cheaper than $350/side). Don't put in 620lb springs up front unless you want it to ride like a covered wagon. I think stock springs are 300 lb/in. Don't lower it, but instead: The top 3 upgrades for front suspension improvement are: Redrill your shock towers to do the "Shelby/Arning drop" (if not already done) with new UCA's ($20 template + $100 for both UCA's) Put in a 1in" sway bar. (best bang for the buck I think and makes the car safer to drive) $140 New KYB Gas Adjust shocks (Maybe $100 for both) After that, you'll need Tie rod bushings ($40ish), stock perches ($40), new spring seats ($10), some Tie-rod work So that's like $400, and it will drive fine (not like a racecar, but you won't shatter your teeth going over the railroad tracks either) On the rear, I would not buy new springs unless they can show you they are bent or ruined. Just New KYB gas adjust shocks and see how it is ($100), maybe new leaf spring bushings if she's rattly. Since there are traction bars, this will be more work. So that's maybe $200 on the rear, and most all the big stuck on suspension for like $600-$700 in parts. If you do this work yourself (only thing really dangerous in compressing front springs). If you want to pay to have this done, $1500 is probably not outrageous, but I wouldn't buy new leafs. if they say they are "shot" make them show you how. Brakes are most important: replace all the rubber brake lines, 3x maybe ~$50 each. The following statement however - makes NO SENSE to me: "Found rear brakes contaminated with rear axle gear oil." I have no idea how this could happen. Sound like BS to me, and I would ask about it. These systems are not connected, and I can't see how they could be thru parts failure, so I call BS. Get a new drivers drum if you can't find someone to machine it. New pads (cheap) and get new rear cylinders (cheap). My brake backing plates are grooved some, but still work ok - weld and remachine is a fair bit of expensive work, and I'd try it without doing that. They don't mention the brake distribution block or the proportioning valve. The prop valve should be taken off and have a new seal kit put it - virtual certainty it needs that ($35 for parts). --- Engine: That's an expensive radiator. I bought a 3-row copper for about $350. You can get a thermostat for $5, you probably don't need a fuel pipe - I wouldn't do that. If you flush out the fuel tank, there is no need to move the fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump (non stock). New rubber connections ($10), New fuel pump $30, new filter $5. That's all that's required. If they can show you the leaks on the manifold you should fix it. And you can look for this yourself, by simply wiping off the front and back and driving it around. If it's leaking oil you should be able to see it. personally, I don't need to remove the Ac compressor to work on the intake so - my opinion - not required. Your oil pan probably is leaking. Do you need to spend $1000 to fix it? NO. This is a hard job to get the old one off and put on a new one that doesn't leak, but honestly, you can keep the oil filled while you save some $'s to have it fixed later for cheaper than that. Fix the motor mounts. If they are original, they probably are cracked. $320 seems like an ok price to do that. Engine balancer MAY be needed.- if you can't get it to run. But if it runs/timing is OK, I'd do this later. For the love of God, do the all the AC/PS/alternator/fan belts yourself - any person driving a 69 oughta be able to do the belts. No idea on the improvised trans inspection plate, but it's probably fine (it's a piece of sheet metal to keep crap out of the flex-plate starter engage area). look at it yourself and see how bad it is. Trans mount is good chance it is bad. $125 seems reasonable I'd note the rear axle seals as something to watch, and do them later. That alone is like $300. buy your own heater hoses. $340 is outrageous unless he is putting Stainless braid on them. Elec: I don't know what he means "seat plugs" but they are dang expensive. Fix the electrical that's broken and nothing else. he's only giving you an AC diagnosis, which means there is another $1500 of cost to get the AC going probably. Can wait. Two windows at 60mph is usually okay for a lot of the US. Body: If the roof drip rails are leaking, that can allow body rust which you don't want. you are looking at a lot of cost that may affect the paint. so this is expensive. Depending on the quality level of your paint, this may or may not be worth it. Just do whatever to avoid rust. OMG - do NOT spend $600 on the damn clock - buy a wrist watch! $35!!! worst case - pull it yourself and mail it off to be fixed. Dash: LED light kit and printed circuit panel is all you need. your fuel gauge either works or doesn't. If it doesn't, I would change the sender in the tank for $30, and not buy a new gauge (which is probably fine, but inaccurate - they all are BTW). Steering wheel can probably wait at $1250!!! Good lord!. Fix the windows. those mechanisms probably need an overhaul - they are cheap systems, and if not adjusted properly, can bind and be really frustrating. UGH. That's a lot of stuff. I'm not a fan of having other dudes do my car work, and so I don't know about labor costs. Anything over $100hr is questionable. $80 may be reasonable. My costs above are for parts, not labor (all of mine is free, so I on'y see parts costs). This stuff is not that hard to fix yourself. It just takes time. If you have more $ than time - this shop may not be that bad, but there is some questionable stuff in here - other stuff looks reasonable. it's a mixed bag. Good luck.
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