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MikeStang last won the day on March 2 2017

MikeStang had the most liked content!

About MikeStang

  • Rank
    69 Restomod In Progress
  • Birthday 07/29/1976


  • Location
    Walker, Louisiana
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  1. Okay So I just bit the bullet and installed a rear 4 Link along with front coil over conversion kit so I now have the following items for sale if anyone wants them. 1 Set of Caltrac Bars with front spring plates to fit the standard Eye and reverse eys spring set ups..yes there is a different plate for a reverse eye spring. - $250.00 1 Set of 4.5 Leaf Mid Eye Springs from Opentracker which still has the big ass aluminum bushing in the front for the Caltrac Bars so if you buy the bars you buy the springs LOL..J/K Ill pop the bushing out if need be. - $100.00 1 Set of rear leaf spring hangers that are 1" longer than stock..Also from open tracker 1 Pair of Rancho Adjustable Rear Shocks - $25.00 1 Pair of Front Koni Classic Single adjustable Shocks - $100.00 1 Set of Front Coil Springs from Opentracker that have been trimmed a bit to obtain the ride height my car had - $25.00 If anyone wanted the same ride height and look my car had then buy every bit of this stuff and be done.... Ill let it ALL go for $450.00 plus S&H....May be able to cover some of the shipping depending on location and Cost. Not to bad for a pretty much complete set up I can be reached at 225-241-3278 or by email at jdorough@daigleindustries.com or Msg me here... Will get pics up this evening.
  2. MikeStang

    Used Koni Classics & 550LB Coil Springs

    Emptied inbox haha
  3. MikeStang

    Used Koni Classics & 550LB Coil Springs

    Forgot contact info. My number is 225-241-3278 and I'm located in Walker Louisiana
  4. MikeStang

    Used Koni Classics & 550LB Coil Springs

    Hey sorry Hey sorry about that, it's just the front Konis for now. The rear shocks are Rancho adjustable which will be for sale along with the 4.5 leaf reverse eye springs and Caltrans as soon as the 4 link gets to my door lol
  5. Well after swapping to Coil overs I have my used Koni Classics and my coil springs that I no longer need so figured I would offer them up to someone here. The Konis are still in great shape and function as they should. The Coil springs are from Opentracker racing and have had about 1/2 coil cut off of them to get to the ride height I wanted which was 24" from the front fender wheel arch center to the ground...I'm sure you can find a picture of my car on the forums to see how low it sat. Anyhow if someone wants the stuff I will let it go for $50.00 plus cost of the ride. I will also have a set of rear 4.5 leaf Mid eye springs and caltracks for sale shortly as well. Pics to follow. MikeStang
  6. MikeStang

    Fitech vs Sniper vs ?

    There is an adjustment you can make that slows the idle step down speed up or down. Basically when you come off the throttle it will bring idle speed down slower which may help you. I think it's in the idle steps section...call tech line
  7. MikeStang

    Fitech vs Sniper vs ?

    No sir, we have not had any issues with RPM surge like you are describing. When we tried to use the timing control to let the FI tech do the work we had issues and their Tech dept said if we were not spraying or boosting that we should use the standard ignition control method lol... You don't seem to have any problems letting the FI tech unit do the work?
  8. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    I wonder if plumbing the Valve to the bottom of an open Element air cleaner would produce enough of a Vacuum to make the valve work correctly? I can see how a semi closed element air cleaner assembly would produce a bit of Vac but just don't know about a full open element unit.
  9. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    I did not check those, but I will tonight. the last time I remember checking them I thought I had around 12". When I built my motor I had Comp Spec out a cam and told them I wanted a cam that would make 500hp with my AFR heads etc.. They sent me the grind info and it looked good in terms of lift and duration but would be ground on a 106LSA and I KNEW this would cause me Vacuum issues with my power brakes so I told them to change the LSA to 112 and send it... They did and my idle for the size of the cam is nice and refined and smooth and my power assisted brakes will toss your ass through the windshield with pinkey toe effort LOL... Oh and it made 550hp despite them telling me that it wouldn't even make 500 if I changed the LSA to what I wanted. Hindsight tho If I had to regrind it I would probably go to a 110 LSA because I want a little more Chop Chop at idle now haha... Just so long as my power brakes work well I am happy tho.
  10. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    Well My valve covers are baffled on all 4 Holes, so I'm hoping that the Valve wont suck any oil up and pump it into the intake LOL...The factory didn't need a separator so hopefully I wont...I guess when I take it out for a ride and put my right foot to the floor if I make a smoke screen I will know I gotta have a separator or catch can LOL. Alan Marc has used one of the Wagner valves it seems.
  11. MikeStang

    Fitech vs Sniper vs ?

    I have installed one F.I. Tech unit and also have a friend who is running one on a 400 Pontiac. I spoke to a Holley Rep last year while on the Hot Rod Power Tour and asked how his system stacked up against the F.I. Tech kits because it sure looked the same...His response was pretty simple..he looked at me, smirked and turned around and walked off LOL...At that point I decided if the F.I tech stuff worked I would just always use them unless there was something better at the same price point. Here are my thoughts on the F.I. Tech. 1. Price point for what you get it great. The units are well built, look nice and install easy. 2. There are FAR more adjustments and tuning things in their software than I will EVER use. 3. Set-up and install was simple, just follow the directions and you can get it up and running really easy. 4. They offer several options to fill just about any HP level even with using N20 or Forced induction. 5. Their Electrical connectors and wiring are all good quality and come wrapped in mesh loom already. 6. They offer several different fuel supply options from in tank set-ups so you can modify your existing tank and put a pump in it or the fuel command center so you can use your stock pump to fill the command center which then uses their electric pump to supply the EFI and you don't need a return line... Or you can go frame mounted pump and return line. Now here is what I have observed after playing with one for a little bit. I actually have my best friends Wife's 68 FB at my house right now which is the car that I did the install on. To do set up you basically just need to follow their directions and pick your engine size, cam aggressiveness (scale of 1-3 I think) and supply a few other bits of info...Once you have done this and have adequate fuel system its a matter of hitting the key and making small adjustments. This car has the power adder 800 kit on it and we initially hooked up the ignition system with the thought you just let the computer control the timing all the time, but found out quickly that the timing control is for the use of Nitrous or forced induction, so if you are not spraying or boosting you wont need the timing control, and since we don't have the gas on the car yet we opted to just hook it up as normal. The system does monitor the timing and from what I understand it adjusts the fuel curves based on timing and demand, but it will not adjust the timing on the fly unless you hook it up to do so and it will only do it under spray or boost. So basically your normal curve that you have established as what your motor works on now is what the system uses and runs with. If you use the timing control for gas/boost you have to lock out your distributor if I remember correctly. Its really cool that you can be sitting at idle and manually adjust the AFR and watch the computer compensate for it and see how your car responds to it...This can be done through the whole RPM range. Start up is immediate, Cold idle is perfect, AC comes on and Idle goes up and the car runs like a top. All in all I like their systems and will eventually put one on mine
  12. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    Well got it all done this evening. The Vic Jr. Intake does not have any vac port holes on it lol so I did as Holley suggests and connected the booster to the back 3/8 port on the carb and the pcv valve to the 3/8 port on the front bottom of the carb. Hooked up Vac gage to small port on carb base and tuned carb...Not so sure how accurate the small port on the base of the carb is. Best Vac reading I could get was about 8.9" Which seems really low to me because I could have sworn it was around 12" late time I checked it but brakes seem to feel the same.. Motor actually seemed to run better actually just sitting idling in the shop.
  13. MikeStang

    Sub-frame connectors

    My best friend has the Global west on his 69 and I have the Tin Man units on my 69. Here's my take on them. I chose the Tin man units because they are a little beefier, but you need to cut the end of the frame rails open and slide them up into the front then plug weld them...I welded mine around the back of the rail as well.... The rear has one welding tab for the side and then where it contacts the frame on the end and side of the connector can be welded out as well. The Tin Man units IMHO will take more of a beating if you were to drag the bottom of the car on something I'm pretty sure. They essentially touch the floor pan for almost their entire length. They also make great jacking / Frame stand points if you were ever to need them for whatever reason. The Global wests are also great, just don't know how they would handle dragging a speed bump or something like that were they to ever take a lick. I can tell you this much tho, my car is really rigid with the Tin man connectors...I am not saying that they are the best out there, but they do the job and look like they belong
  14. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    What difference does it make if the PCV goes to the air cleaner or to the carb really? Altho I do have my brake booster plumbed into the big fitting on the rear of carb and I was always told you should not T into the booster line for the PCV valve, but where else do you hook it besides the air cleaner...I think my air cleaner base has a provision for it but I'm sure I dont have the little fitting for it any longer. How does it even get any positive vac if hooked to the air cleaner tho...that's not a sealed enclosure?
  15. MikeStang

    PCV Valve Plumbing Questions

    You happen to have a part number or manufacturer for that PCV valve you used?