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bryonbush last won the day on December 24 2016

bryonbush had the most liked content!

About bryonbush

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 08/02/1987


  • Location
    Terrell, TX

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  1. Ok thanks. For some reason I though there was a larger orange wire that was labeled for the heater. Guess I'm thinking wrong
  2. Ah gotcha! So the orange wire goes to the blower motor?
  3. Sweet thanks. I'm not home for a week so I cant see my harnesses. So the factory yellow wire gets replaced by the big orange wire in the AAW kit? What was the smaller brown wire you added a wire connector to? Thanks
  4. Seeing if yall could help me with how to wire up the fan speed switch and the heater blower to an aaw kit while using the stock setup. This is for a non AC car. There were some of yall who did this and its documented somewhere but a lot of the pictures in the build section are gone
  5. in all honesty I think there is a law about messing with certain safety equipment in the car. I heard this about pulling seat belts out of cars that have been in wrecks. Working with crash reconstruction troopers there's a way to tell if the fabric has been stretched that often times in major accidents, this is looked at to see if people were wearing their seatbelts. With that said, id hate to be messing around with a shotty sewing job on a seat belt.
  6. You haven’t used this system have you? The hoses they have suck and run OVER the headers which means they bake then crack and break. My hoses lasted a week while on the power tour. Anyone who actually drives their cars with their borgensons hoses are on borrowed time. It seems like you’re set on an argument on why we should stick with brogeson over rack even after I pointed out two kits that will be around the same price. Never the less, a search for my posts on borgeson will quickly show the issues they have for someone who drives their car a lot with this system.
  7. Look at steeroids or unisteer. Borgeson set up without the pump is close to 1k, then custom hoses being another few hundred, pump is another few hundred as well. Just this weekend I had to put all new seals in the pump which adds another $20-30 for the seals and fluid. For the hassle this has been, even another few hundred dollars to not have to constantly have leaking hoses, blown gaskets in the box, and pumps that leak is worth it.
  8. Congrats Vic! I'm still haven't even started my kit yet. I was actually just waiting for you to get done so you can do mine.
  9. A quick search here will show you my experience with them. The Saginaw pump leaks like a sieve now. Dont waste your time with their hoses. Get some custom ones made that will allow them to go under the car, then up to the box or through the fender area. You'll fry the hoses they provide quickly if you drive a lot. The money I have into the box, hoses (few custom sets) and pump, I'd go rack. I was in your spot where every place an original PS could leak did and was in dire need of rebuilding. CJ had a sale and it was slightly cheaper than having everything rebuilt or replaced. That quickly became very expensive. Some people have been very happy and trouble free, but not for me.
  10. I'm in need of/need to replace every linkage for the fastback including the Z bar pivot points. I don't see any reason to go back to the stock style system that will wear out. So I'm looking at the opentracker roller set up or going to a clutch cable as both come out around the same price. Any recommendations on either of the two kits?
  11. I can honestly say I don't know. I switched out boosters last summer and since then I have way more pedal travel than I did before. I have bled these things still my legs fell off and never get any more air bubbles out. So I'm thinking that either 1: i need to just bring it to a place and have them vacuum out the system on a machine, 2: try new and better pads, or 3: find someone who is very familiar with these systems, have them take a ride and see what they say. Unfortunately I don't have a good idea of how these stock brakes feel as I feel as they have never been what they should be
  12. Hey partner, any update? For as long as I have had my 69, even with all new every thing related to the brakes and they still suck. At this point I'm thinking it's maybe just the pads because I've bled this system a gazillion times and nothing seems to change
  13. if you look at the 6th photo in the link to LMR I posted, it shows where the temp gauge is. So depending on where your control valve is, I would think (key work there) that the coolant would be always in there. When I added my temp sensor I put it right where the bypass was since I don't have a heater core. but if I add heat ill need another place. another option would be to buy the same kit only without the added bung. then just drill and tap into the threaded area that goes into the intake. seen that done a few times but then your sensor sits pretty high.
  14. yup. the shop who did it did a very good job. one thing I don't like though is how they connected the headers to the pipe, they hang quite a bit and these are on Dougs Try-Y's. You would think for them pulling the collector out away from the trans a smidge, running it close together and through the brace, then nice and tight over the exhaust, they would've don't a little better at the collectors.. oh well, it works and I aint changing it. forgot to add... my trans tunnel gets pretty hot in the summers with the pipes so tightly in there. Vick: I would recommend putting some type of heat shield in there if you do it. I was actually thinking of taking some of the heat shield off a totaled ford fusion. I was under my wifes car changing the oil and noticed they have a pretty good run of that padded aluminum heat shielding stuff that would probably work pretty well.
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