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bryonbush last won the day on December 24 2016

bryonbush had the most liked content!

About bryonbush

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 08/02/1987


  • Location
    Terrell, TX

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  1. I rewired my vert this spring with an aaw kit. It's at the body shop now getting painted so I cant check this info for myself. Does anyone know if in one of the extra spots aaw provides, give a solid 12v while cranking? Reason why, I would love to eliminate the wires for my fitech efi. For those who dont know, fitech has a massive connector with two wires, one goes from the battery and one goes to the fuel pump. If you're trying to have a clean engine bay, there is really no way to hide these but if I can get the fitech unit to get power from inside the car, that would eliminate the wires in the bay.
  2. These looks great. I’m wanting to get a set once the car is back from the paint shop
  3. Cleaning out parts that I dont use. All priced are negotiable and I can calculate shipping. Most can go flat rate USPS. Powermaster starter..$130 Tuff stuff alternator #7078ng $100 Painless wire harness pn 70217 make offer Non tack dash with newer printed circuit, VR, and LED bulbs. Make offer. More pictures if needed
  4. I have been using a JBL flip 4 for a while in my vert. Cheap, loud, and no wires.
  5. Go through this posts. Good info even though it's not in a 69 http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/1119498-1965-4r70w-conversion-complete-how-pic-heavy.html
  6. I didnt have ac in my car so I ran the wires up the firewall and in through one of those holes, then into the glovebox. Now another great way that I'm considering doing it is to call baumann and order one of their pin pushers. Remove the plastic heads then run them through a hole you drill by the shifter. From there you can run the wires under the carpet to the glove box or if you have a console run it in there. My car is torn down and at paint so no pictures for ya now. Look over on the VMF forum and theres a good write up of a guy who did it the way I described
  7. Could you fill me in with the ac line routing. I'm assuming there will be a coyote In there but have you done something similar with a 351w? I want to do something like that with my 69 by hiding the lines.
  8. Got it thanks! So I have a 4r70w trans mission that needs a key on power source. It has a 5amp inline fuse built in. Im thinking of using wire #100 but is “accessory fused power source” a good option?
  9. So wire #99 is a stand alone according to the manual. in your picture, it shows your yellow wire coming from what looks to be Terminal "F", going to the DD box. did you run #99 to the connector, or did #99 get spliced into two so one wire can go to the radio, and the other to the connector for the DD. hope this makes sense
  10. Over on connector D, theres a brown wire with a white stripe. On connector F, theres an additional brown wire that can be added that's labeled "acc power". Can I add that brown wire to supply power to the DD box? And is the constant power coming from the pink wire?
  11. So how do the wires from the column connect to the DD box?
  12. Can you go into detail on the speakers you used. Also, what radio head are you using?
  13. ah I see now. did you just order the flush housing then?
  14. I see you went with the same LED taillights as me. just a heads up, the reflector that's in the middle of the lights will start popping off. they are held in place by crappy double sided tape. I went in and removed the tape, then super glued them down. for how much they are, you would think that the tape of securement of the reflectors would be better.
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