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bryonbush last won the day on December 24 2016

bryonbush had the most liked content!

About bryonbush

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 08/02/1987


  • Location
    Terrell, TX
  1. 69-70 Parts in ky

    What about leaf spring bushings and rear brake lines. Specifically the rubber one from body to axle housing and the metal lines on the axles
  2. Man that hood will look cool once it's finished
  3. 69-70 Parts in ky

    harness that feeds the gauges
  4. 69-70 Parts in ky

    Curious on window and door seals for a 69 fastback. Hydraulic cylinder for a 69 convertible. Gauge feed wire cluster
  5. 1970 Convertible Restoration

    I had to trim my tube quite a bit for it not to rub. Make sure that rag joint fits the borgeson box really well. Mine came loose one day and trying to re tighten it sucked. The cheap bolt ended up stripping out so that's when I went to the universal joint. Made my steering better but man the noise coming up the column sucks
  6. Good clutch to use?.

    So I'm going to jump on this thread since by summer I'll be in the same position. Literally all I have on my car is a trans, clutch pedal, cable, and a floating z bar. I honestly couldn't tell ya what that z bar attaches to for stabilization as I've never had my own standard car. With that said, could some here suggest the parts to finish this out?
  7. Might have to pull the heads

    im with ya. but I will say that my holley was pretty dialed in and it still doesn't hold a candle to how the efi preforms. It's getting better with some more tuning but im not a computer guy at all so I don't like to mess with something that im not too familiar with. on a side note I adjusted the AFR ratios this weekend and it seemed to knock out a lot of the smoke I was seeing. I didn't get a chance to pull the plugs but I did notice that when I rev it up its clearly the distinct smell of oil. ill see if I can gets some plugs out and see what has changed.
  8. Might have to pull the heads

    Honestly there's a lot that can be done with this efi tuning but I don't dig too much into it as I don't want to mess tji ngs up I've read that o2 sensors are prone to failure quicker in aftermarket settings for some reason so it wouldn't surprise me if I did foul it out. My cold start sucks and I'm in the same boat as you having to hold open the throttle. I'm going to tinker with some more settings and drive it around a little today and see how the plugs look. If all else fails I'll have a new set of plugs in next week were I can start off fresh
  9. Might have to pull the heads

    I posted pictures of the sparkplugs and the settings for my efi on the Fitech owners group on facebook and everyone agreed that im running super rich as well. my idle was pretty rich and cruise was a little on the rich side as well. im going to check the o2 sensor and see if its tight as well as other areas. I'm not getting any noticeable surging or idle issues that make me think there's a leak on the motor side. or maybe the o2 sensor is just fouled out and creating drama. But the plugs do have oil on them as well which still leads me to believe that there might be a valve seal issue at least.
  10. Late model Mustang seat swap

    There’s a fella over on VMF who has a pretty good thread going on with this exact topic. He too had to cut and make new risers
  11. Might have to pull the heads

    My bad, the pcv is going to the EFI not the intake. Ill have to unplug the PCV and see what it does. yes the covers have baffles. PCV is on the passenger side rear and the breather is on the driver side front and is a filtered unit that is atmospheric. tonight i pulled the back two spark plugs as they have probably less than 100 miles on them. #4 looks heavily oil saturated right at the tip. the threads are dry. #8 isnt as bad, but there is wet oil going up the threads. i just did those as they were the worse from when i changed them and also will see if the oil is coming from the PCV and going right to the back side. Right is the #4
  12. Might have to pull the heads

    so the oil soaked plug is the #4 cylinder. im guessing that one is so bad due to that being the closet to where the vacuum line to the PCV valve is. But i added an oil separator on that a while ago. This is the first time the plugs have been changed. a while back when i first noticed oil coming out of the breather i did a compression test. all cylinders came in within 10 psi from each other at max difference. i haven't done one lately though. the efi AFR sensor is on the driver side of the exhaust and the two sides are not connected by an h or x pipe. i don't think the #1 cylinder wasn't not firing, because it still pulls strong. im running an MSD 6AL box and MSD pro billet distributor. if there was an issue with the valves not seating correctly or burned up, would this be a reason why id get more engine run on when shutting down? it would do it occasionally with my carb, and stopped with the efi. then it has been creeping back and now it happens all the time.
  13. Might have to pull the heads

    that's what im wondering too. ive been getting blow-by out of my breather valve out of the driver side for a while now. which if that's the case, ill probably end up just pulling the motor since ill have the top end apart anyways.
  14. Might have to pull the heads

    i dont think im running lean. with this efi, it regulates my AFRs. and the obvious sight and smell of burning oil. I pulled the plugs a few weeks ago and some of them were pretty oil saturated while some looked good. these were off the passenger side bank. front to back goes from right to left.
  15. Might have to pull the heads

    this motor isnt but 4 years old and has the edelbrock performer rpm top end kit. so the backfiring occurred this morning after startup. this efi seems a little touchy at times during first start up till things warm up. then it wont happen the rest of the day. we're closing on our house on the 28th so till things settle down, this will probably have to wait. what im most curious about is if ill be able to notice anything out of wack while replacing the seals. what brand seals would yall recommend?