50dan 25 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 After 10yrs of sitting I'm finally going to start working on my 69 Sportsroof. Going to restore my engine compartment and I'm removing everything so I can clean, strip and paint it. How does the plug at the firewall come apart? Also can anyone recommend a new front wiring harness? I'm going to replace it because it's very stiff and brittle. I saw a factory replacement by Alloy Metal Products (AMP) from CJ Pony for $213 or they have an upgraded version by American Autowire for like $649. Should I go back factory or do the upgraded one? I don't plan on adding anything fancy but I guess down the road it's possible. Also does anyone have any advise or suggestions to add while I'm into this under hood project? 2 SextKecy and SweellTrex reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 I used the Alloy Metal Products harness. It seems well made and I haven't had any issues. The harness is connected to the fuse box if I remember correctly. So just unscrew and move the fuse box then it is just held in with some plastic tabs you need to press to release. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 792 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 I can refurbish or replace your headlight harness (if not for a tach car...I'm out of those for replacement) for $100. I bring it back to factory electrical conditions. To remove the headlight harness from the fusebox, unscrew the bolt on the fuse box inside the passenger compartment as mentioned by MN69Grande. Then go to the firewall and push on two tabs on opposite sides (gently!) and then pull straight back towards the front of the car. 1 JD08 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chelby-Ann 47 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 When I rebuilt my coupe I decided I didn't want any gremlins screwing around with my electrical, so I planned and installed bumpah to bumpah a new American Auto Wire wiring harness. I'm not sure what your plan is or the extent of your build but it was real easy with a new AAW and with 3800 miles of flawless cruzin in 2 years, I could not be happier. Just my 2 cents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 I also used the AAW harness. Great product but if I had it to do over again, I would go with Painless. The Painless uses the correct wiring color code for our cars where the AAW uses what they want. Could be difficult to troubleshoot or add accessories later on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 216 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 I also used the AAW harness. Great product but if I had it to do over again, I would go with Painless. The Painless uses the correct wiring color code for our cars where the AAW uses what they want. Could be difficult to troubleshoot or add accessories later on. That's interesting, Mike. I have a pretty good harness on my car. If I weren't doing a resto mod, I'd probably just send it to Midlife. With the extra circuits I will need, I think it best I look at one of the kits. I've done a lot of searching and comparing between the Painless and AAW kits and it seems the consensus points to AAW. While the color coding is GM based (AAW), the wires are marked for their intended purpose. Any other reason you would go painless other than the color coding? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 207 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 there is a bolt in the middle of the fuse assembly. completely loosen that screw from the inside and it will allow the harness in the engine bay to unplug (i think the screw is held into the fuse block with a clip so it won't fall out. so don't expect to completely remove it. i can't quite remember.). i likely purchased a harness from NPD. i don't recall it being very expensive ($150 to $200?). it worked just fine for me to hook up all the factory type connections (e.g. headlamps/turn signals/side marker lights/horns/voltage regulator/starter solenoid/etc). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newstang 388 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 I dont know about you, but im getting to old to be on the ground under a dash to look at fuses. I mounted an EZ harness, ( or painless makes them ) in the glove box. Obviously the only thing these boxes hold is the registration so it was no loss. each wire is marked so you can use as many or little as you want. Very simple. I made a metal backing to mount it to the rear of the dash. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LiLMike 42 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 That's interesting, Mike. I have a pretty good harness on my car. If I weren't doing a resto mod, I'd probably just send it to Midlife. With the extra circuits I will need, I think it best I look at one of the kits. I've done a lot of searching and comparing between the Painless and AAW kits and it seems the consensus points to AAW. While the color coding is GM based (AAW), the wires are marked for their intended purpose. Any other reason you would go painless other than the color coding? Yes, the AAW wiring is labeled but sometimes they are hard to read like under the dash or a dark area somewhere in the car. Also the installation instructions are your wiring diagrams and they leave a lot to be desired where if you use the color coded painless kit, you t least know what circuit you are looking at. 1 Machspeed reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 216 Report post Posted February 25, 2017 Yes, the AAW wiring is labeled but sometimes they are hard to read like under the dash or a dark area somewhere in the car. Also the installation instructions are your wiring diagrams and they leave a lot to be desired where if you use the color coded painless kit, you t least know what circuit you are looking at. It's been awhile since I checked out the Painless harnesses and it appears that they have made some good changes for ease of wiring our particular cars. Not only do they use the correct color coding, they also label their wires and group them per location. More than that they have upped the number of circuits and made it essentially a factory fit harness. I liked what I saw and am reconsidering. Thanks, Mike! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 169 Report post Posted February 26, 2017 I'll just drop a plug in here for Midlife. He redid my harnesses, and they are prefect. I had zero problems. I believe the aftermarket kits are more work, and frankly, I think you're better off with an original harness. Midlife fixes everything professionally, and sends you a detailed wirelist customized for you car. It's really a fantastic deal. 3 JD08, Raven R code and mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 Anyone know where to get a pin extractor for the green block on the engine bay harness ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 792 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 Bic ball point pen shell, but you first have to remove the clear plastic protector in the connector. Personally, I use a jeweler's screwdriver, ground down on one side such that I can slip it in between the shell and the pin (female pins), or press on the locking tab for male pins. It is a pain, but it does work well. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3pedal 95 Report post Posted March 19, 2017 I highly recommend Midlife...... 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,143 Report post Posted March 20, 2017 I highly recommend Midlife...... Me too. Especially since Robert convinced him to share another secret tip :0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted March 20, 2017 I can understand the problems with a restomod and using the factory harness. So much is changing, it seems kind of difficult to bother keeping the original. When I did it I kept the original because I know it can be a huge amount of work to install a complete aftermarket assembly, and mechanics would really squawk about working on a car that was changed from original. I left my original system and added a supplemental harness to run everything else. I have a separate fuse block under the hood for all me added items, with a separate harness to all the accessories. But if you are considering things like a new instrument panel, which is a major change, that would be the deciding factor. If you are restomoding things like electronic ignition, electric fan, a nice sound system, then stay original. Even halogen lights can be added with the separate relay kit to them very easily. If you do stay original and have any doubt about your existing wires, let Midlife take a look at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordzilla06 11 Report post Posted March 21, 2017 Does the painless kit come with all the extra goodies the AAW kit comes with like the extra circuits for power windows, EFI and such? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
