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The Bitch is Back!

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From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 1999. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!

Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...

YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.

 

Bob

 

 

IMG_20131224_155858_zpsc02791e6.jpg

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(LOL) You need to watch your language. Sounds like the red Mustang is the only "non-bitch" in your life.:tongue:

 

Seriously, hopefully if you can put 1/10 the money into this gal as you've probably put in to the last two you'll have the greatest Retro-Mustang ever built. :biggrin:

 

Look forward to seeing more of it as it gets closer to roadworthness. Good Luck with "her".

Edited by 70Mach03

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From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 2001. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!

Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...

YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.

How do I add a pic that shows top left when I post? Bob.

 

Nice!

 

You're lucky you still have your car. I had a 67 fastback project that I stopped working on; then my now ex forced me to sell it. I should have divorced him sooner & kept the car. Selling it is my biggest regret

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I got the measurements from an oem arm, then made the pivot points a bit narrower for wheel clearance. I'm having the upper arm pivot shaft machined as my lathe is not big enough for the 1" hex bar to fit thru the lathe spindle to turn the end and drill and tap.

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69 351w block, bored .030, Scat crank stroked to 393, 10.2cr KB hyper floater pistons, polished and peened rods, Cloyes double roller timing chain, Comp Cams XE 268 cam, Melling HV oil pump, AFR 185 heads, Crane roller rockers, Weiand Stealth port matched intake, Speed Demon 750 carb, Hedman Hedders, ARP fasteners, Weiand alum water pump, Milodon 7 qt oil pan.

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69 351w block, bored .030, Scat crank stroked to 393, 10.2cr KB hyper floater pistons, polished and peened rods, Cloyes double roller timing chain, Comp Cams XE 268 cam, Melling HV oil pump, AFR 185 heads, Crane roller rockers, Weiand Stealth port matched intake, Speed Demon 750 carb, Hedman Hedders, ARP fasteners, Weiand alum water pump, Milodon 7 qt oil pan.

 

 

How are you going to keep the @$$ hooked to the ground?

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Without slicks, don't think it's possible, unless I don't use my right foot. With the stock M code 351, it would chirp the tires when the auto shifted into 2nd w/o trying.

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I'm liking those control arms. I just recently was able to purchase a REAL welder to replace the cheapo junk I was using. Picked up a Miller 211 MVP and am using it every chance I get.

 

I'm very interested to see how your suspension works out for you. If you decide you'd be interested in making another set to sell, or even selling the jig when you're done with it, lemme know.

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Yep DRASTiK, I'm liking them too. And a nice welder is a good thing to have. Don't believe I'll part with the jigs. Added a cross support to the upper arms near the rod ends, and a bracket at the ball joint cup. Mounted the strut rod with a rod end just in front of the oem location, which still lines up with the inner most adjustment of the lower control arm. Decided to use 1" hex bar for the upper arm pivot shaft. Drilled/tapped the ends 1/2" x 20. Got busy this week and made caliper to spindle brackets for 2001 Cobra 13" discs.

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Mas fotos. Made up some spacers on the lathe to fill the gap between the outer hub and inner rotor. Made some for the rear rotors also.

 

user6734_pic1084_1334464431_zpsf41e99f1.

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Built a bar today in my shop. Already had the tube ends and clevises, just needed some chromo tube which I picked up at a local race car fab shop for less than I could buy online. Bent the brackets in a home made sheet metal brake. Will tig it complete after the motor is in to confirm it clears the distributor. Sure beats the one piece I bought which bolts holes don't line up.

 

IMG_20150320_180527_zpsbalt03fk.jpg

 

 

IMG_20150320_180632_zpsumwp2cai.jpg

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