RPM

Thanks Jim. Is it a 2 sided tape that goes between both the gasket and frame and the gasket and glass? Test fitting the 3 pieces reveals there is not much free play in there.

Does anyone know what adhesive was used? Looking at the original piece doesn't reveal much evidence of any glue. My 2 windows certainly didn't use the glue in door glass adhesive. Whatever was used hadn't failed in 48 years, as these were in for long haul. As usual, my goggle search turned up everything but an answer.

Nice, real nice.

Hey Reaper, welcome to the forum. Have you thought about starting a build thread on your 69? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested in it.

Well well well, look what came in the box with the new frames today. Instructions advising you use a torch on the chrome frame till it becomes loose. Huh, go figure.

Thanks guys! Jim, please let me know what you find in your inventory.

Thanks Jim. I believe fastback pieces are different, but hopefully close enough to work. My good right side is 77", can you please measure the coupe mldg for me? The drivers side is just 55", with the back 22" missing. The dog leg vertical end of the molding at the rear is ~8-1/2".

It is wrapped, I also installed the fender :) I guess I can now remove the shock ride height note.

Heck Jim Heck Jim , I just figured everybody clicked the Unread Contents tab on each visit here. No worries mate. By chance do you have the driver's side channel that screws to the door and window opening and to which the roof side rail molding is glued to? Somehow the back half of mine is gone.

With my moderator status I should delete some stuff here. Sheesh, getting old ain't for wimps. Pay me no nevermind.

AARRRGGGHH!

Yep, front.

Attached to my m.i.a. quarter windows are their lower hinges. Nice. Apparently these aren't repoped. A quick call to Paul, my new bff at Mustang MD in Castaic, Ca procured me a used set. You won't get yard sale prices from Paul, but he's a great guy who's honest and knowledgeable. One of the hinges had the plastic sleeve missing in which the hinge rod rotates and stays snug. If a plastic straw was made from thicker material it would work and be formed to the rod. I cut a piece from a milk jug, slid it into an aluminum rod I bored to proper i.d., inserted a rod to keep the inner shape, then heated the entire contraption with a torch for the plastic to take shape, then cooled it. I wish finding my missing quarter windows was this easy. I'll be selling a set of these for $25 to recoup my losses. I'll beak even when I sell 12 sets :)

If I understood Mike, I believe I ran my cable like he said. The cable starts at the front of the battery and goes up and over the wheel house. It drops down the front of the wheel house and into the trough of the upper rocker panel. It continues forward into the A pillar below the vent and up the angled toe board. I believe 2 battery cables will fit in the recess as long as other wires aren't there in the way. There is room to pull the cable thru the fresh air area and in and behind the heater. Hopefully you'll have not installed the heater box like me. Then it exits the passenger compartment behind the heater box. And into the engine bay. Since you're installing the solenoid in the trunk, I'm not sure where the cable terminates in the engine compartment. Anyway, that's how i did mine and it was pretty easy.

I too have the DC piece and from what I've read, I will take a razor blade to it and cut off the rib flush.