quoriSer

Need a temperature gauge...black ...from a tach dash non deluxe car. Thanks....John

You could say, "the blind squirrel found the nut", better go buy ya a lottery ticket the way your luck is rolling

Just curious why it was down for 10 or so days...I so missed my Russian spam!

Would anyone have photos,diagrams or any suggestions on where I could try & get this information on how the Roof Trim molding (2/3 Landau Vinyl Roof) sits over the Vinyl edging across the roof. Showing if the vinyl is cut off infront of the roof pins or if it is cut off at edge of rear of trim ,also if the clips that hold the trim down sit on the roof itself or on top of the vinyl, Cheers Phil

So cool! Necessity is the mother of invention (or modification).

When I read about Shaun's convertible inner rocker install over at VMF, I was hooked and decided to do it along with the one piece seat riser. I had already removed the stock seat risers because the NPD Ventura phone sales guy said the conv and sportsroof were the same height. This after I axed him to compare the two. I found out otherwise when I went to pick them up. You don't need a tape measure when they're side by side. Because the conv seat riser raises the seats by one inch, I figured I could just splice in the center hump piece which goes over the tunnel. After measuring twice I cut into it. A the center piece is 1" higher than the stock risers, I made several relief cuts in it and bent down the hump ends and tacked them. Surprisingly I only had to add one small filler wedge piece on each side.
 
The inner conv rockers were fairly easy to install, just time consuming. I can't imagine doing them without a rotisserie. The fun part was welding a zillion plug and tack welds.
 
Crap, shoulda uploaded all my pics when I had the chance :(
 
Bob

All original and in great condition except the foam needs replaced. I was going to reupholster them but decided to buy new seats from TMI. I have a new set of TMI seat covers included. $650.00 I would prefer not to ship. These would be a bear to ship and the cost would be crazy money I am sure.
 

From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 1999. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!
Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...
YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.
 
Bob
 
 

Making some suspension and brakes progress. Pretty much done with the front arms, need to do shock mount and sway bar mount. Welded up the 4 rear bars, Need to get some coil overs to make this thing a roller.
 

 

Better yet. Billet Aluminum. Bet it would cost a fortune but it would be really cool.
 
Those year one gauges are nice looking, They did a good job making them almost look like the originals.
 
I remember seeing a Gauge face that was made out of brushed Nickel with brushed copper lettering and Billet aluminum Bezels. It was different but definitely cool. It had blue back lighting that just made the copper pop.

I have bought a couple of 69/70 Mustang/Cougar steering wheels on eBay, in pretty poor condition, for the sole purpose of manufacturing some 14 inch wheels, but still dressed as our beloved Mach1 rim blow wheels.
 
It is a pity they pull so much money, since even the scrubby examples I managed to get are expensive.  Crazy when they will be test-bed items for fitting and finish choices.
 
On that point - let me know if you have old wheels you no longer have a use for.  At this point I will focus on 3-spoke wheels, but eventually I believe it wil be possible for me to create a 14 inch Mustang rim blow from a decent 2-spoke center hub. (By replacing the two spokes with the three spoke arrangement)/
 
Opinions needed for rim thickness, and material, and finish
 
The wheels are a steel framework with a phenolic/plastic type resin molding applied over the framework.  The rear hoop of the rim is the same color to match the interior trim (Black, Red, Blue, Green Ginger....etc)  The front hoop is artificially grained and painted to resemble wood grain.
The rim is almost universally regarded as too thin.  The wheel diameter is 15 inches, and many feel it is clumsy and too large for modern driving styles.  No 14 inch wheels are available commercially to mimic the rim blow style and trim levels.
 
The  available options for the rim material are timber, or "resin" with many versions and options for that process. 
At this early stage I would like opinions on desired sizes for the rim thickness and material finishes.
Rivets or no rivets?
 
I intend for the rim blow switch to be incorporated, of course
 
 

The driver side seat in my 69 Mach 1 is for a 70. The seat back release lever is down low next the the hinge. Is it possible to convert the 70 seat to a 69 by relocating the release lever up to the middle area of the seat back? I won't be home for another couple of months otherwise I'd take it apart and see for myself. I know I haven't seen parts for that release mechanism available....only the frames and tracks for the most part.

Does anyone know the color coding on the passenger door speaker wiring from the dash harness.
1969 Mach 1 AM/FM. Thanks

I have a 351 with 302 heads. A bigger cam and dual magna flow exhaust. I just put on a 600cfm 4barrel holley and MSD ignition and distributor. My car is dieseling and it's hesitating off the start. I asked my mechanic to back the timing off and add to the air/fuel mixture. He told me that he doesn't want to take anything off the timing because it will make the car sluggish. He suggests it's the carburetor (that it's too small and I should've gotten a 750 double pumper). I'm getting frustrated. Thoughts? 

Took my car to it's first car show this Saturday inside Texas Motor Speedway for the Good Guys Classic Car Show. The weather was absolutely beautiful. Went with a friend of mine who took his '69 Shelby GT500. He has 4 mustangs and whom I hold personally libel for the purchase and any pain my car's cause me. :-)
 
There were well over a 1000 cars there and some very nice Mustangs as well. If fact, the same beautiful red '70 Mach 1 that was there last year was there again. Funny thing was, this car and one other custom Buick Electra, were the only cars I took pictures of last year. I just always lusted after the 69-70 Mach 1's. I'd be curious if the owner of that car was on this forum.
 
Here's a pic of when we first arrived. After some time it filled completely in and was PACKED. I have to say I was shocked at how many cars were already in place by the time we pulled in at 8:15. I thought we'd beat the crowd. NOT!
 

 
Owner of Shelby to the right

Wonderful choice in color. It looks beautiful and may well be the only '69 like it at the shows you attend.

Looking for pic's

Yep. I was called stupid by a few classmates at Embry Riddle when I did it, last I talked to a few, I'm making more than them, because they're having trouble even finding a commuter or corporate gig, but they have twice the student loans to repay as I do...
 
I really want to get back in the air though, and finish out through my multi instrument rating. That way I can fly with the family when I want to...

My engine builder told me to toss the cork. I checked another 428cj and a 390 and they didn't use the cork either. The 390 guy said his builder said the same thing.

For sale... Professionaly rebuilt SB C6 automatic transmission w/shift kit, CJ 8 stud Converter and flexplate , ARP bolts...$800..or Best Offer.......also for sale: automatic trans crossmember...$75.00, Lokar down shift cable, $40.00, complete rebuilt automatic shifter,fits 69-73...$200, coolant lines $30....driveshaft...$100...will make package deal for all.........e-mail...njjoeh@optonline.net

So, I noticed a spot under the rear of my car, and checked it out.
 
3 hours later, after draining 10 gallons of gas out of my tank...
 
My fuel line between the tank and my SS fuel lines in the car was a short piece (less than 6") of SAE-30R7 3/8" fuel line that I got from NAPA.  It's been on the car about 6 years, and when I touched it, pretty much cracked in my hand.   Then, looking around, I wiggled my fuel sender wire, and that started leaking.  
 
The bottom line is that the "rubber" parts at the tank end of my fuel system are shot.  So, I had to drain the tank, and I need a new fuel sender and new fuel line.
 
I normally use Ethanol free gas, or over the Winter, use a Sta-Bil product that is supposed to deal with the Ethanol effects.
 
Anyway, my approach has not been effective.
 
Looking for advice/recommendations/tips on replacement strategy to avoid doing this again.   I am headed to the front of the car over the weekend to check my rubber fuel line transition from the frame rail to the fuel pump feed, and then the fuel pump to the carb.  
 
Thanks.....

About to start assembling my motor. I have read the FE bible from Barry....so these tips are in addition. Had upgrades to the oil system done which includes the chamfering of the openings in the mains and enlarging the passage by the filter mount. A few things I am doing that I didn't do before include....not priming the lifters. Do not prime lifter because you will not be able to effectively measure push rod lengths. The other thing is to prime the motor by getting the oil pump up to speed on the engine stand. This will allow to check for leaks before installing the motor. One last tip....use pipe dope or other good sealant to seal the lower right water pump bolt. It is the only one out of the 4 mounts to open up into the water jacket. This one caused me much grief when my motor was freshly painted and leaked coolest everywhere.
 
So , please feel free to share any building tips or tricks related to the FE block. I will add more as they come.
 
Dave

You can't finish if you don't start. Some days I feel better after a bit of work and small progress than a long day with substantial progress.  
 
I'd remove the valve covers to see if you have any sludge build up. If not, just do what you mentioned. An old time trick used on engines like yours is to run the motor for about an hour with diesel fuel in place of motor oil.  An old family friend who bought many old parked cars used this method successfully. My brother also did it on a 65 Polara 413 ex CHP car (car did 150 when it was a CHP car).

Well.. Not quite..
 
History lesson.
 
Back in 1969, I was a tike of 9 years old sitting in Pop's puke green 66 notch back at a local Dairy Queen.. Up pulls a blue 69 Mach 1 and I was immediately in love! Could think of nothing else...
 
Eight years pass... for graduation.. we find a one owner red 2 barrel Windsor FMX slushbox Mach.. I was in love... I cherished this car.. bumps, bruises, scraps and all.. waxed weekly.. never driven in rain... she was my Baby Girl..
 
Life gets in the way..
 
Meet my True Love.. get married.. last plate expired 1983... three kids.. mortgage.. responsibility... T ball... soccer... years... decades... all pass..
 
Gray hair.. aches.. pains... pot belly...
 
Collage payments...
 
Pick up a 2006 GT as a daily.. wonderful car.. beat the snot out of her to this day... she asks for more... always performing.. but don't have the gravitas of the Mach..
 
Years.. Years.. Years... She sits in waiting.. covered... dusty.. sad...
 
Payments are done... wife's car paid for.. collage paid for.. what's this??? what's this???
 
We're saving money for a pole barn... a pole barn where she can live again.. be reborn...
 
Torn... was worried about originality.. friend asked if I'd ever sell her.. I was like NO EFFIN WAY.. he said... "build it as you want it!"..
 
So that's where I'm at.. probably 2 years away for enough money to have the barn build and cash for resto...
 
Time to dream...
 
Gotta haves...
 
425 horse MIN...
 
Pro touring...
 
Five or Six gear stick...
 
Shock towers gone...
 
Three link rear...
 
Blown 4 valve?
 
Built Windsor?
 
Time to dream....
 
She will be blue.. as the one I first fell in love with...
 
Last time she saw daylight was in 2006....
 

 

Could some one post a pic showing the routing of the front wiring harness.
Checking mine last night and it has some nasty crap repairs done.
Mine is a mess where the alternator wiring goes to the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Thanks
Walt