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nickjames138

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nickjames138 last won the day on March 26

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About nickjames138

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  1. fyi if anyone else has this issue....It was the ignition Switch! I replaced it and now it works! but as these old cars go...now my electric fan stopped working for some reason. FiTech is sending me a new chip for my handheld and said that should fix the issue since the handheld tells the fan when to turn on.
  2. yes its a throttle body style fuel injection carb (Fitech).
  3. Punisher, I didn't mean to steal your thunder btw. I'll totally take it to another thread, but it just sounded like I have a related problem. Happy Thanksgiving y'all
  4. Barnett, I haven't gotten under my dash yet, partly because I have no idea what to look for, but All of the sudden All of my electronics (radio, pw, electric fan, lights etc) come on when I turn the switch to the on position (1/4 turn)...then once I turn the key another 1/4 turn to start and the engine busts off all of my electronics are gone. I'm guessing it's a wire that's going to the actual keyed ignition? Sometimes it will work though. Then sometimes the bulb light in the keyed ignition will light up and other times it won't. Feels like something is shorting out, but I don't even know what to look for?
  5. Awesome! I'll definitely give this a try. Cant hurt at this point. What do you think the life expectancy of a power master is? Is it the same as a factory starter or do you think it's much longer since it's a more updated starter?
  6. Hey Barnett, I have a FiTech carb. Would the timing make it hard to start once it's hot but easy to start when it's cold? I'm still confused on how timing curves work.
  7. I have Global West. I basically did everything Global West and it stiffened the handling! So much better. I'm in CA and going 70 on the freeway around a slight bend was SCARY. The front and rear were lagging and trying to sync up to each other. The SFC helped tremendously. Here's how they look underneath which I'm completely fine with. just my opinion, but they welded right in. Simple
  8. Cantedvalve, not sure if you're working on a 69 or 70. I just joined. If you're building a 69 I would highly consider buying the 69 to 70 window conversion. After reglueing my windows in my 69 about 5 times within a couple of years I found there's a 70 conversion. The 70 windows are bolt on as apposed to the 69 glue in trays. That goes for everyone with a 69 as well. It's expensive, but well worth the trouble and mess.
  9. This is the exact issue I'm having. I don't understand why it just started to happen, but I think just buying a new PMGR starter is best. So, just to clarify...this completely fixed your issue?
  10. The strange thing is that I never had this issue before the rebuild. I also want to check the coil.
  11. I've been trying fix this issue for a few months now. My car starts right up in the morning. I drive around town and make a few stops and my car gets harder and harder to start until it just won't start anymore. The starter tries to start, but it sounds TIRED! If I let it sit for 20 mins or so it cools down and starts up again. I never used to have this issue until I blew my intake gasket and got water in my block. I rebuilt the engine with a new comp cam and new distributor. Since having this problem I've gotten a new starter (didn't work). I wrapped the starter with a heat shield/blanket (still no luck). I replaced the factory alternator with a 150amp and big gauge charge wire. It runs like a beast it just doesn't want to start again once I turn it off after driving around town. I've even ran to the gas tank and opened the cover...no hissing/vapor lock. My next guess is to wrap the headers with a heat shield. The starter is very close to the headers...not much I can do about it.....OR IS THERE?
  12. SAME! I dynamated everything because I live in CA and the summers are unbearable to drive my car...even with Vintage Air (that actually blows super cold). I still get heat under my feet even after dynamat and firewall even after dynamat. I see that Summit sells a heat shield pad for floor boards....has anyone heard if these work? I'm guessing it's the same stuff they use in new cars?
  13. Hey guy, About a year ago I converted my manual steering and factory suspension to Borgeson Power Steering with all Global West suspension. It's a rougher ride, but handles so much better. That's not the point. The point is the steering was so fast now that I couldn't feel the road at all. If I just tap the wheel it's going into the other lane. I've heard about this "Pressure Reduction Kit" you can do to slow down the steering, but everyone I asked said they don't know. Then I called some distributors and they said it's only for a R & P. I don't have a Rack. So, I said screw it I'm going to try it anyway. The kit is super straight forward. I only used 2 "shims" which reduced it from 1350psi to 1100psi and I LOVE IT! The steering is night and day so much better! I probably could've gone to 1000psi. My other car is an AMG, so I'm used to a tight sporty feel and this reduction kit got me closer to feeling like that! I just wanted to share in case anyone else doesn't like how fast their Borgeson steering is and wants to tighten it up! If you need any pointers don't hesitate. If I'm giving super outdated info...I apologize. I've been under a rock for 2yrs (raising my Little One!).
  14. What type of gauge cluster did you use? Looks just like the factory, but looks a tad different than mine. I'm looking to replace my entire cluster. Most if not all of the gauges done work. I found that once switching to an MSD it causes the tach to stop working. Does anyone know a simple fix?
  15. I could be completely wrong, but it's the rear where I'm feeling all the bounce. The front feels fine. I don't think the front would affect the rear would it? When I push down on the truck the rear ended springs up and bounces.
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