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About Rcodenewf

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 01/21/1959

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  • Location
    Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    Mustang restoration
  • Occupation

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  1. How about the steering wheel? thanks..John
  2. Vic. I have a spare top mechanism here belong to a friend. I'm sure i can send you those bolts to get you over the hump and complete your top. You can send yours back if / when you locate them. If that works for you? Let me know... Regards..John
  3. Looking great Northernstang. What rear disc setup did you use? John
  4. Both great ideas. Kris the inner pillar mouldings on this car will be black as well. That might work. Raven: I had initially contemplated doing the moulding in a silver or light argent colour. There are a few pits in the brackets but for the most part i should be able to polish most of them out if i go that route. I guess if i go the black or silver route i can always have that piece powdercoated as we get a lot of it done through my son's business. Thanks guys, ...John
  5. Just seeing what you guys have done to these two pieces for refinishing. The first is the moulding that goes above the windshield on the inside. The rearview mirror attaches to it and it connects at both to the sunvisor brackets. It was rusty when i removed it..it cleans up like stainless but isn't. Not sure if i should paint it and with what. Second photo is the sunvisor brackets ..these appear to be potmetal or aluminum. Just looking for ideas. thanks..John
  6. I got it up to @ 5 degrees Dave and up to now i have lived with that. Minor tremble between 60-70 and then it disappears...still annoying though. I did purchase the low profile covers for mine but haven't installed them yet as it entails removing the trans and mounting it in a mill to mill the surfaces down to the required gradual incline. That will let the tailshaft go up further with the covers not hitting on the passenger side which was the case (pardon the pun) with my interference issue. My plan is to do that at the same time im building a stroker 428 for it. MD now sells a streamlined case as i mentioned and after all the issues i had i think everyone should purchase those trannys with the mod already done or go to that new TKO that theyre now selling. I guess finally that company got the message that these transmissions are too invasive for the Mustang tunnels. Best regards...John
  7. When i did the TKO 600 swap in my 69 I had to shim up the back of the trans to get the driveline angle acceptable. I called MD and basically they said to put a piece of cardboard over the top of the trans ...jack the trans up til it hit the rib on the floor..then lower it just enough to remove the cardboard and that would be acceptable clearance. Mine did not sit " perfect in the opening" as the opening is not symmetrical. It appeared to sit over towards the passenger side but when you look at it the rib on the floor on the left sweeps away further than the passenger side which is more vertical. That was done purposely at the factory to allow more room for shifter rods etc. Made sense to me. Technically If ordered from MD you should order the TKO with the 'low profile' covers..that way you can get the trans up further in the tunnel without hitting anything. And the covers hitting on the right side was my problem. One other note..not sure what shifter you got with that trans but i ordered the shifter with a 1" offset to the left and rear and that put the shifter in the center of the opening to match the console. Food for thought. Regards..John
  8. Mike65...according to the list on rock auto they are correct for the car?? John
  9. yep..it is. I like the fact that he explained the fact that whatever is cut off the spring will be double at the wheel..makes sense ...forgot about that. I guess In the interim i'll put the seats in and fluid..other than that the car is pretty much complete and i know those few additions won't bring these coils down any. Then i'll calculate and start trimming. Interesting though in his video he talks about a 620 coil for the early mustangs being in the 13" range.. I'm assuming he's talking about freeheight. These springs have a 16.31" free height. I might drop him a line and see what he thinks and maybe what he can supply. Or maybe i'll cut as is in his video. ..John Edit: I just sent him an email.
  10. Good day Mach1 driver: there are no shocks in the car yet. Haven't purchased them. Yes the bottom coil is up against the tab and the top fully seated in the insulator. Thanks
  11. I agree wholeheartedly with you Mach1driver. Upper and lower control arms..strut rod bushings..spring perches..idler arm..upper isolators have been replaced..100% new. All moog except spring perches which are SD. I also agree that the car has to be 100% assembled ( i watched the Eaton video) and the fact that that the car has to be driven 500 miles but...looking at the pics i think you'll agree that it won't settle over 3 inches. Maybe im wrong.?? John
  12. I backed it off after i installed the engine and trans. Car is 95% assembled. Only thing left is seats carpet and the convertible top ..the framework is installed. That certainly won't bring it down 3 inches. John
  13. Agree with jmlay. I went through 2 of the new AMK 'concours' solenoids in a 4 month period before I replaced them with a Motorcraft. No problems since. Car would start with the AMK and wouldn't release starter unless i ran out and rapped on the solenoid with my knuckles ( got tire of that real quick). :) ..John
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