Jump to content

Rcodenewf

Members
  • Content Count

    573
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Rcodenewf last won the day on October 31 2021

Rcodenewf had the most liked content!

About Rcodenewf

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 01/21/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Converted

  • Location
    Manitoba, Canada
  • Interests
    Mustang restoration
  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

1,557 profile views
  1. Looking great Vic! I sent you a pm last week. John
  2. Hello GearHeadPeter: This might be a long shot but last year i ran into the same problem locating a set and came across this fellow through a friend that was looking for a set for his 70 cougar. He had a bunch of them in stock at that time. I just checked my Paypal and sent him $137 US for it at the time. Was sent promptly and it's installed on the car now and looks great. I can't recall the brand but it is the same one that West Coast Classic Cougars sells. You might want to try him. His name is Paul Willson and the email address i sent the paypal payment to is pbw3952@verison.net Hope you have some success there. Best regards...John
  3. Thanks jjstang. I figured i'd give it a shot and it works well. Regards...John
  4. Hey aslanefe. Thanks for the response. Funny, while i was waiting for you to get back to me i was wondering what else could be done...cut / reweld the tubes or shim those C brackets..lol. But i wasn't thinking of just doing it to one bolt only on each c channel bracket. I'll certainly give that a try and report back. Cheers! John
  5. Backed my 69 fastback out of my garage one day. Young fella walks by and says " Hey nice Camaro". Get outta here kid! John
  6. Hello aslanefe: Sorry for the delay..Was getting a 63 Fairlane ready for sale as well as trying to sell/dispose of some of my friends stuff that recently passed away. Back at the convert today for a bit and i took a few pics. I removed the vertical run at the front. The lower bracket was pulled inward as far as it could go with the tab that holds the little nut in, touching the outer door skin. So i cut off roughly 3/8" of that tab as it protrudes past the acutal base of the run. Still not enough. I took a few pics to show the front of the glass touching and pressing in on the glass while the rear of the door and glass is still open. What mods did you do to yours? The drivers side is not as bad but certainly not right. Thanks for any help/suggestions you can provide. Regards..John
  7. Hello aslanefe. Yes, my door glass is bolt in. Just outside blowing snow right now :( but will post some pics after if you still need them. Back outside..later! Thanks...John
  8. Well before i post any pics i'll update. Had my bodyman friend stop by today. He was baffled why the window was tilted in so far but we did manage to make a little headway. Facing the passenger door i noticed that the lower left was sticking out a bit and therefore the upper right inward ( that's my problem area)...so we tweaked the door out a tad on the upper right which, while latched on the striker, moved the bottom left inward a tad. So gains were made there. But the problem still exists. I had the doors fitted perfectly before the car went to paint but the shop painted the car in pieces which of course is what i wanted. Ridge ...Just to see if your 'slotting' suggestion would work i removed the bolt at the bottom of the door which held the forward vertical run. With it completely removed i can only get it maybe a 1/8" of an inch outward until the square frame on the bottom of the tube hits the outside shell...so slotting it won't work on this door at least. Seeing the sliding nut is at its' maximum travel my plan is to cut off the protruding portion of the 'cage' part where the nut slides as the nut is at its' maximum in the opposite end.. Then fold down the tab..in essence shortening the slot where travel isn't required. Aslanefe...i'll post pics of the window before and after the mod. I'll keep this thread updated and thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Best regards...John
  9. Was wondering about that Ridge. Did u ever consider cutting the tube at the bottom and moving it inwards then rewelding?
  10. Well, i have to resurrect this thread. Not for the door weatherstrip but the a pillar weatherstrip. These weatherstrips have been on backorder due to covid and they finally arrived. The weatherstrip goes from the top of the A pillar where it meets the convertible top ws. Down the door opening and fastens at the bottom. The weatherstrip is has a metal 'frame' covered by rubber with two locating tabs that go into slots in the A pillar. These do line up on this car. Most of the screws holes in the new weatherstrip do line up with the holes in the A pillar that secured the original weatherstrip. Now here's the problem? With the window rolled down or even part way down the door closes fine although a bit springy when you open it because of the new door ws. However, once the glass is rolled all the way up, upon closing the door the top of the glass comes into contact with the A pillar weatherstrip well before the door closes. I loosened the the two bolts at the bottom and this allowed me to pull the vertical slides inward which tilts the top of the glass outwards. Ford refers to this as the " tumblehome adjustment". The bottom of the vertical slides mount onto a bracket that has a square nut that slides inside a slotted cage. The sliders are adjusted inwards at their maximum but the glass still touches the weatherstrip first and putting pressure on the door seems like it is going to pop the hinges off...lots of tension. Has anyone run into this before? Everything is lubed up...correct 70 regulators...no binding ..windows go up and down smoothly....been fighting with it for couple of days. Oh...passenger door is original, drivers side is dynacorn...same problem with both. Thanks...John
  11. These are the upper stop limit brackets. ..John
  12. That's a great illustration Rich. Thank you so much! As you say...clarifies a lot. Regards...John
×
×
  • Create New...