Brianguple

Time for an update again. Started on getting the Tremec T-56 Magnum installed.
 

 

 
First up was installing the engine. Dropped right in of course.
 

Next up, the Magnum.
 

Test fit to see where it hit the floors. It did hit the transmission tunnel crossmember first. I'm using the TCP motor mounts, and I can't drop the engine any more because the Rack & Pinion goes under the oilpan. I know guys who has Mustang 2 style suspension or front steer rack can lower the engine more, and don't have to cut up the floors.
 

 

 
Started drilling out spot welds for the transmission tunnel crossmember.

So nice!

During the resto of my son's mustang I rebuilt a control valve for the power steering unit.  I have noticed a small annoying leak.  After putting up on lift and actuating several times I determined the fluid is leaking out of the boot area where the joystick goes in top of the control valve and the pitman arm connects.  Was I fooling myself in thinking I would be able to rebuild the old valve with a new rebuild kit and have it not leak?  Also, appears to be weeping from the endcaps as well. Comments, thoughts, or experience welcomed on how to proceed.
 
Thanks
Rick

I got the new hoses made so they can run down and back up to the borgeson box. Problem I'm having now is the return barb on their pump sticks straight out. I need to have some type of 90* fitting or way to make the stock barb be bent down to a 90*. I know I can get brass 90* elbows, but want it to have a cleaner look. Any ideas?

I ordered my stripe kit thru CJ's, officially licensed ones. They are made by Grafic Express. Once installed, several small blemishes were noticed on the passenger rear, pictured. I contacted CJ's with the issue and attached pictures. CJ linked me with express and in three days I had my replacement. No hassles.
That doesn't happen to often these days

I'm looking for a plain Jane air cleaner base for my '70 302. I'm looking for one to customize.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

OK everyone, this is a weird one.
I am getting an oil drip inside the car. There are only two things I can think of and wonder whether anyone has had a similar leak.. Is it possible that the oil can leak from the speedometer cable... that is that gear oil from the transmission could travel up an be forced out?
 
Has anyone had oil come through the brake booster from a leak there and had it drip into the cockpit?
 
Kinda weird, I know.. just wondering before I tear my dash up
 
thanks all
 
christian

I wanted to post an update since some others have issues with the Borgeson power steering conversion.
 
I finally had time to drive my 69 Mach 1 after installing the Borgeson power steering box and pump.  Same front end alignment as before the installation.  In all honesty, I don't know what the caster settings are.  The shop that did the alignment was kind of old school and follows more by experience rather than specs.  But, it steered great, steering wheel is centered, doesn't pull to either side, return to center feels as good as my 1995 F150.  No leaks.  So far, I nave no complaints with it.

Well Mike, if I had done the repairs back in 1999 when this project was started it would have been metal finished. However, since there is body filler all around that area I went ahead and used some Bondo. It's only 1/8" max there which is acceptable. I thought about welding in a small piece of metal but didn't want to possibly heat the filler and have it fail later.

My interior pillar molding along the windshield is busted in several places.  I'm certain it is original. It looks like it is made out of a hard thick plastic of some sort.  It's about a 1/4 inch thick.  How can I repair this?  Should I use fiberglass, epoxy, etc?
 
david

Better yet. Billet Aluminum. Bet it would cost a fortune but it would be really cool.
 
Those year one gauges are nice looking, They did a good job making them almost look like the originals.
 
I remember seeing a Gauge face that was made out of brushed Nickel with brushed copper lettering and Billet aluminum Bezels. It was different but definitely cool. It had blue back lighting that just made the copper pop.

Thought I would post one of my side-projects for my 1970 Convertible.  I want to put speakers in the front kick panels.  The pictures below show my steps.  My rationale was that I have a Convertible and it is an A/C car, and the 1970s have the flow through ventilation grills in the door sill.  So.....I will have plenty of fresh air, but need some tunes.    I will be running a Boss power amp, rear speakers and subwoofers off of my Boss DIN 1 flatscreen head unit.  I installed Kicker 5-1/4", 40CS54 Speakers.   The "CS" series are low profile, and fit nicely.
 
First step was to get an extra set of kick panels.....just in case I want to return to original. Next, was to get some MDF from Lowes, and make a template the same shape as the vent box, and also, the hole for the speakers. Cut the MDF shape and speaker hole, and painted it black Cut the cable going to the vent door, and secured the door with a sheet metal screw Sprayed undercoating on the outside of the vent door, and the area where it seals to the air box Added dynamat on the inside and outside of the vent box Put the BoomMat speaker baffles inside the vent box.  Routed the speaker wires through the BoomMat and through a hole in the airbox, sealed with RTV Mounted the speakers to the MDF, and the MDF to the airbox Took new kickpanels and used an X-Acto knife to carefully trim the vent louvers out of the kickpanel Looked forever on EBay and Amazon to find speaker grills that I liked and were the right diameter, and could be mounted.  They have an inside "ring" that gets screwed to the MDF, and the grill is press fit on that ring Pictures below.  Not sure how it will sound, but will be fun to find out!

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I purchased the Total Control Product front coil over suspension kit.  I've watch the 2 youtube videos a couple times each and have gone over the instructions with a fine tooth comb. 
The issue i have is the strut rod they supplied is pushing my lower control arm too far back toward the rear.  Ive tried pulling my camber all the way forward and maxed out the strut rod to the minimum length and still does not line up the lower control arm.  I cannot even get the verishock to go inside the aluminum mount.
Ive measured everything out, check and double checked part numbers and everything seems to be correct.
TCP right now is kind of shrugging their shoulders as they don't have an answer for me.
 
All the metal on this car is factory original

Well I just got the notification on Power Tour 2017.  Unfortunately the dates seem a little later this year and I've already promised the wife a trip to Iceland (where I don't think there is a single Mustang).  But for those interested here is a link to the page with venues and dates.
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-hot-rod-power-tour-dates-locations/
 
https://www.raceit.com/Register/?event=39043&_wcsid=E1D73A3F09C81307F97239A76F7FEACCDCAFC66E5CC99422

I have HUGE rattles in the front end of my '70 Mach 1. They are killing the fun for me so I have to get them fixed before the love is lost.
 
Today I found what might be accounting for 50% of the noise and I'm hoping you guys can tell me the right way to fix it. I'm getting serious rattles between the outer skin and inner skin/structure of the hood, especially around the shaker hood opening. I started taking weather stripping and stuffing it between the gaps. This really quietened it down but isn't exactly pretty or period correct.
 
First question is whether there's something wrong with the hood that this happens? Second question is what's a good way to fix the problem that will look decent and last?
 
I think the other 50% of my rattles has something to do with the suspension, springs, and maybe perches as it quiets way down when I'm on the brakes and hitting bumps.

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

What's a car like this worth....in basket case condition, missing most parts, with typical rust. are they worth rebuilding. are folks still looking for projects like this? Not really wanting to build it, since I already have one done., but may purchase to resell here if the market supports....Your honest thoughts welcomed. Thanks.
also have short marti report. clear title.
 






 

Anyone know how rare one of these are?  Value??  

Hello Everyone - this question probably comes up often, but I am having a hard time deciding. I have a 69 mach 1 "M" code car that no longer has its original 351w with FMX in it. It currently has a 70 351c with c6 in it (completely stock). I am wondering if I should go back to the 351w or rebuild the 351c. Since it will not have the original engine either way, it probably does not matter.  I would like to run around 400 to 450 hp and not looking to keep it completely stock, but not to radical.  I read that parts are easier to find for the windsor than for the cleveland, and assume either way I go the cost will be about the same. I will probably get the transmission rebuilt as the c6 is not too bad. Any and all advice is welcome.
 
Also any ideas on good engine re-builders in north Alabama?

Doing a TKO 5 speed installation in my 70 Mach 1...I am installing a Modern Driveline Hydraulic/Wilwood master cylinder set up...I have no existing knock out plug/hole  and need location for a 1"3/8 hole for the MC...location must clear Bendix booster and brake dist. block,,,does anyone have any pictures.....thanks in advance.......joe

70 convert, 302/auto, PS, PDB, orig working A/C. Motor to my knowledge has not been rebuilt, does not smoke, has alum 4 barrel intake and carb, but have orig 2 v intake/ carb. Trans was rebuilt several years ago, have receipt. New exhaust with factory exhaust manifolds. All Numbers matching, all original sheet metal, and rust free. Professionally painted by Triple F Automotive, spent roughly 10,000. Top was replaced 4-5 years ago and has 4 small 1/4" holes due to screw issues. Interior has new carpet, pad, and new seat covers. Factory am radio installed and still works.
Asking 23,500

Just an FYI.
 
https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/pts/5782531136.html

Wanted 1970 Passenger fresh air side vent assembly.
thanks for looking. 
Randy
 

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.