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fvike

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fvike last won the day on June 23

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About fvike

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    V8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/17/1981

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    Male
  • Location
    Mosjøen, Norway

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  • Location
    Mosjøen, Norway

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  1. Yes it is. '69 car with a '70 door and '70 glass all around. At some point the drivers door was wrapped around and replaced with a '70 door. The other door has the '70 handle bracket screwed in place, not riveted, but I belive it is the original door. Edit: The door panels on my car is '69 as identified by the material on them and the '69 mirror adjuster. So I guess they work with the '70 handle brackets.
  2. Note that the two clips on the top of the door must be removed when installing the deluxe panel. My car had been converted sometime in the '90s and I could not understand why the door panel would always bust up the chrome on my door locks. The panel just didn't sit right with those clips in place.
  3. Pretty sure that is the clip for the brake pedal shaft.
  4. I got this a while back, ca 2007, so I can't really remember, but I think it's Ford #3662 I got. There wasn't so may models then. I had to modify my brakepedal to make it work, I probably had a 1970 brake pedal. I also had to change the rod in mine to use the big Wilwood MC. But again, there was only one model to choose from then, and Hydratech basicly coustomized it to my car/MC combo. I have/had the PS tank on the driver side of the engine bay. A AN -10 goes from the tank to the pump. All other lines are An -6. The pump sends pressure to the Hydraboost first. This was routed around the shock tower. The Hydraboost have a low pressure return that runs back to the tank, also around the shock tower. The Hydraboost high pressure return runs back around the shock tower and down to the rack 'n pinion. The return from the rack goes back in the tank. The KRC tank only has one return inlet, so I modified mine with an weld in AN -6 bung on the opposite side. This is a bad picture, but you can see the line routing. Same, both pictures are obviously post crash. As I am currently restoring the car (Year 10) , I'll be routing the lines differently now. I'll have a cooler, so return from the rack will go to the cooler, then to the tank. Also, I'll be routing the lines outside the engien compartments thru the bulkheads on the inner fender walls. I'll also use jacketed PTFE braided hoses this time to save the paint. https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/hose-fuel-ptfe-stainless-steel-braided-black-jacketed/ The lines will run on the backside of the shock tower thru the bulkheads.
  5. I have the Hydratech unit, love it. Hydratechbraking has the most fantastic customer service I have ever experienced. I haven't run a cooler before, but I am going to run one in the future. I've not had any problems with foaming, but the PS fluid has been very hot. I run the Hydraboost in combination with a TCP power rack and the KRC pump with an external tank.
  6. There are a lot of Mustangs here in Norway. It's the most imported US car behind the Corvette.
  7. No, I didn't. I used the supplied spacers to get it right, but I did have to put a 1/4" spacer behind the WP pulley. Now that I have a much bigger cooler package (DeWitts Radiator and SPAL dual fans) I needed that 1/4" back to get enough clearance for the alternator and one of the fan motors, so everything is moved max in. 6 rib/3 rib WP pulley is also installed. I need to cut 1/4" off the PS pump bolts, as they are too long now.
  8. You can get serpentine pulleys for your pump at KRCpower.com I don't think you'll find a better pump than the KRC unit. Stay with it. You can change flow valves on it to tune it to your liking too. I did change mine. I have a full KRC setup, and it's very clean. After this picture was taken, I have changed the WP pulley from a 6rib/6rib to a 6rib/3rib.
  9. This is the one we're talking about. My car had seat belt warning that was plugged into this.
  10. PO is "Prove Out" which is a systems test. It's when the key is turned to the left from center. I don't know if that connector is live when ignition is on. @Midlife would know. Edit: I don't see why you cant use the yellow connector under the dash. I said light just as an example. It can be used for anything. I's just a 12v source.
  11. Here are two links you can read. If your car didn't come with a tach, you don't have an tach output, and need to make it: http://www.boss302.com/tach.htm This was done to my old harness, which is out of the car now, so let me know if you need any pictures. Also if you get an MSD or FAST ignition box or equalent, they will have tach outputs. Sun Tach discussion on Stangnet: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/tach-wiring-questions.512040/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=pmd_IM8ZpAXhSH3qaefKE7xy48PrEtLEgEmBK0rYRBu2QVM-1632508608-0-gqNtZGzNAlCjcnBszQjl
  12. There should be a 3-way female bullet connector under there with a yellow jacket. It can be used for auxillary equipment. But I doubt a tach can get a reading from it, but it can power the lights in the instrument.
  13. Do not cut it flush! Keep it long, and trim it next year if you can. Use a steamer to form the carpet.
  14. Those looks like Hedman longtubes, but the collector seems to short, comparing to my Hedmans. I've only seen the loose collector ring on Hedman, which is a feature I like a lot. I got mine recoated with thermal coating. So yours looks savable to me.
  15. Good to see they got 14" rotors now for the Mustang spindle. They only had the 12.88" before. At least with the Superlite caliper.
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