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fvike last won the day on February 10

fvike had the most liked content!

About fvike

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    V8 powered poster
  • Birthday 03/17/1981

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    Mosjøen, Norway


  • Location
    Mosjøen, Norway

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  1. Awesome story Caseyrhe! The car turned out great!
  2. Welcome! Looks like a solid project.
  3. Hey, just try it. If it's too sensitive, replace it with a bigger MC. Worst case you'll just spread your investment.
  4. I'm running a 1-1/8" MC with my Hydraboost. The total caliper piston area governs how large MC you need. But for big brake kits 1-1/8" MC is the way to go. http://www.hydratechbraking.com/FAQ.html
  5. Use a chain block. The Mustang got a long nose.
  6. I have some pictures when I did mine. I have Dynacorn shocktowers, so they came with the Big Block braces installed. There's a plate on the inside of the tower also. The Boss 429 type braces I made out of cardboard first, then steel. Not much info, but I hope the pictures will help.
  7. Just press down the adjuster knob to release tension, and remove the cables.
  8. Yeah, it's the Chevy 350 that need reduced base circle cams (on strokers I think), because they have no room inside the block.
  9. I see Marcus Anghel has the fender pieces NOS. http://anghelrestorations.com/parts.html He would also be the guy to talk to about how to restore the items you do have, and any questions about the two types you have observed. You could also find good info over at concoursemustang.com.
  10. Welcome to the forum! Is there some kind of special equipment on the car since it got 2 vacuum canisters?
  11. I've had Percy Seal-4-Good gasket for years. Reuasable, had them on and off a couple of times. The're multilayer aluminum. I think they are now Taylor Cable brand. It carries the same part number, and looks the same as Percy. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66014 I linked the Windsor gasket. Is that a Cleveland gasket you got there? As for torque, usualy you can only work with wrenches, so I go as much as I can without slipping with that 3/8s wrench. Then retorque after a day, and again the next day after that. I've always used ARP bolts.
  12. They are fill panels for Fastbacks without fold-down rear seat.
  13. This is my car mounted on 315/30/19s. Borrowed wheels, so I don't remember the BS or width on the rims. No tubs, original, but modified wheel houses. The car is not on the ground here, but there was a wee bit clearence. When the car sat on the ground, the wheel moved outward, and the clearing was incresed. Rolled freely. The modifications done to the wheelhouse is a wedge laid into the front of the wheel house. They are very narrow in the front, but are plenty big enough otherwise. The best thing about this mod is that it does not move the brackets for the rear fold down seat or interior panels. The rear seat mount is welded because my car had them offset to one side. No gap between the panel and seat on one side, and 1/2" gap on the other. You can se the top slide lock has not been touched. Edit: Rear seatbelt anchor is still in place between the wheelhouse and frame rail. Will have to go if you tub it all the way. Panel mount is untouched. This picture shows how narrow the front of the wheel house is. There is plent of space towards the frame rail.
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