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1969_Mach1

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. With those, even the close ratio versions have a fairly low first gear ratio. My thoughts with using a close ratio top loader 4sp in my Mach 1, I'd select one of the middle two close ratio versions and use something like a 3.50 or 3.70 rear axle ratio. The overdrive ratio will depend on how you want to drive on the freeway.
  2. JBA short headers for a 351W and on a 351W fit just fine with a Borgeson power steering box and stock motor mounts. They also offer long tube headers for the 351W in a 1969 Mustang.
  3. Is the fan a reproduction 5 blade fan? I originally had that type on my 1969 Mach 1 with a 351W and it didn't move much air, especially at idle. I found a stock 6 blade clutch fan from a 1969 Cougar with a 351W and installed it with a new Hayden clutch. It works much better.
  4. Engine temps rising at idle is usually a symptom of insufficient air flow through the radiator. What type of mechanical fan setup does it have?
  5. These cars will not drive and feel like a new car. It takes some effort on your part to drive an older car or truck. They are not as refined as todays cars and trucks. Using a new car as for comparison is not a good idea. In my opinion, aftermarket steering upgrades will not come with other issues.
  6. Looks nice. What are you going to do for the fuel and temp gauges? Fuel gauge should be where the oil psi gauge is currently located, temp gauge should be where the ammeter currently is located.
  7. My 2 cents. The price of these Tach instrument panels is going down as the demand for them goes down. The demand for these kind of dropped when the original optional hood mounted tachs started being reproduced. Fifteen years or so ago they were commonly $1500 for an original assembly that still worked. Then for one that was not working and needed rebuilding . . . still $1500. And nobody would part out unique gauges on these. So if there were one gauge or the speedo that needed replacing, it was tough to find it.
  8. If your car has factory power steering long tube headers are a challenge to fit. A drop bracket is needed for the power steering hydraulic cylinder. The low cost drop brackets add significant leverage on the frame rail and over time pulls out or strips the nut inserts in the frame. There is an expensive drop bracket sold by West Coast Classic Cougars that helps prevent that from happening. The JBA short headers fit without any issues. The FPA long tube headers are very nice, but also very expensive. Many use Hedman Elite series headers. I couldn't tell you how well they fit. One drawback with headers is they add significant heat to the engine compartment. They also increase the interior noise from exhaust, but, most of us don't care about that. If your motor is stock and you plan to keep it that way I think I would consider stock exhaust manifolds and a good dual exhaust with an X or H pipe.
  9. The MSD Pro Billet 8578 is 11/16" shorter than the MSD Billet 8584 distributor. But the 8578 has a cast iron gear so a gear swap would be needed. The Pro Billet 85786 comes with a steel gear. The height should be the same as the 8578, but, MSD doesn't specify it.
  10. Those are good transmissions. Fairly tough in stock form and can take quite a bit of abuse. I'm sure there is a market for them, but I wouldn't expect to get what you have invested in it. Not because it's an FMX, but because that's the nature of this hobby. You'll have to wait for somebody that prefers more stock and a direct replacement parts and doesn't want all the issues and basically "side effects" that come with altered or modified stuff. What gear ratio do you have in the rear axle?
  11. The correct manifold shouldn't be difficult to find. I've seen them on EBay. There's also Perogie Enterprises.
  12. I see all the benefits of the copper nickel tubing. For this time, I think I'll go with the steel again. Like I mentioned, It still looks good since being installed in 1978, a coupe of them could be a little longer for better routing which is why I am replacing them. My only concern with the copper nickel is this, I finished the restoration of my 1969 Mach 1 back in about 2000. Since then as part of preventative maintenance I replace wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and calipers on occasion. and also flush the brake fluid. I don't want to wait for something to leak and dump brake fluid all over. I expect to also do this on this 1956 F100. I don't know how many times a soft copper tube end will survive installation and removal.
  13. This one looks simple, that is the wrong exhaust manifold. Here's an image I found. The bottom manifold is the left (drivers) side and the top manifold is the right (passenger) side. I wonder if somebody installed 289 or 302 manifolds on a 351W. If so, both are wrong as the 351W manifolds have a larger flange for a larger exhaust pipe.
  14. That changes things a little. Doing a little more research it seems there are different grades of the copper-nickel tubing which I wasn't unaware of.
  15. You can get another Duraspark distributor then change the gear to steel. However, changing the gear is a little more involved than pressing a new gear on, align the roll pin holes and install the roll pin. The roll pin holes are randomly drilled. There are specific dimensions that need to be adhered to from the bottom face of the gear to where the distributor seats in the block. If those are off, the gear can either grind into the block or ruin the distributor. I use an MSD Pro Billet distributor in my 351W. I did have to change the gear to steel. But it has a smaller diameter and lower profile than the MSD Billet distributor. The taller height of the MSD Billet distributors will sometimes interfere with air cleaners on 351W motors. The MSD Billet distributors are taller than stock distributors. I think (not certain) the MSD Pro Billet distributor is about the same height as a stock distributor. MSD also offers a Cap-A-Dapt for the Pro Billet distributor so you can install a large style cap and rotor on it. One good feature about the MSD distributors over an original style distributor is the ease of adjusting the advance curves. If I had to purchase another distributor again, to save money I might go the Duraspark distributor route and change the gear to steel. Crane offers vacuum advance spring kits for Duraspark distributors that will give you some advance curve adjustments, but, not nearly as much as with an MSD distributor. On my other project with a 390 that is what I did, Duraspark distributor and an advance kit to recurve it a little.
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