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1969_Mach1

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1969_Mach1 last won the day on February 12

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. Is the Pertronix I the system that goe bad if the ignition switch is on without the engine running for only a minute or so? Or has that been corrected? If you want OEM reliability there is always the Duraspark II conversion.
  2. You need something like a mechanics stethoscope to pinpoint the source whistle. Holley carbs do not have throttle shaft bushings. Some of the old OEM Holley versions use thin Teflon bushings that fit into grooves in the throttle shafts. Usually what happens is the aluminum throttle shaft bores in the base plate wear out. On Fords, if using the original return spring setup, the primary throttle shaft bore will wear. Simply because both the throttle cable and return spring are trying to pull the throttle shaft to the rear. I've heard of whistling through on of the verturies at idle. I've also heard of leaky power valves causing whistling. But when a power valve leaks the motor also runs rich at cruise and maybe rough at idle because of a vacuum leak..
  3. If it's a small block oil pan compare the width of the flange that goes around the rear main bearing. In my experience, the OEM oil pan was more narrow in the flange area than aftermarket oil pans.
  4. This guy should be giving this car away. It's only worth the 9" rear axle housing if it has a 9" rear end. I say housing and not the complete rear end because it's probably a basic open differential in a standard third member, nothing special. Don't forget, unless you have a lot of storage area, you'll have to figure out what to do with this car after you remove any parts you want. Wrecking yards, at least in my area will charge you to take it.
  5. You've asked a loaded question and you'll get a myriad of responses. I'd stick with either something from AED like J's69Mach1 mentions or Holley. Quick Fuel carbs have more features for the money, but something about their quality is not as good as AED and even Holley. I've tried Quick Fuel carb parts but never a complete carb, metering blocks, base plate, throttle shafts. I've always ended up either throwing it in the garbage or it sits on the shelf. There's always been something just a little off that cannot be corrected. I currently have two pairs of Quick Fuel billet metering blocks and one set of their high flow throttle shafts that are sitting on the shelf that I don't want to use. What's wrong with your current 650 DP carb? The size is suitable for your motor. You're not going to improve gas mileage simply by switching to a vacuum secondary carb. The choke horn is milled off but you can still install an manual choke or electric choke assembly on the side and have a fast idle. Do you know what the list number is, 4777-X? If it has some original color still on it and the throttle shaft holes in the base plate are not worn out, I'd do a thorough rebuild and run it. Especially if it's an older model. The older carbs for some reason seem to run better in stock calibration than current stuff.
  6. Before condemning the wheels, they might not be the problem. What type of tires did you install on them? I have noticed lower price tires usually need more weight to balance. Also, are those wheels supposed to be hub-centric balanced or lug-centric balanced? Not certain my terms are correct, but some aftermarket wheels cannot be located by the hub opening when balancing and must be located by the lug nut holes when balancing.
  7. Yes, paint it black with a satin or semi gloss finish. Don't use an engine enamel. Engine enamel lays on with a heaver film thickness and will not leave as nice of a finish on smooth parts. When using spray cans Duplicolor brand dries fast but is not very durable. I use to use that brand but now do my best to avoid it.
  8. Master cylinders do not include the front seal for the brake booster. Here is a link to a kit that includes that seal. There are more parts in it than you need, but it's the easiest way I know of to get that seal. https://www.npdlink.com/product/boot-kit-power-brake-booster-repro-bendix-booster/205434/203210
  9. If it's a Bendix brake booster after the master cylinder is removed there is a seal in the front of the booster than can easily be replaced. The brake fluid might have damaged it by now. The piston rod will sometimes just slip out as well so don't worry if it does. I've seen those seals on National Parts Depot's website.
  10. From what I understand depending on how fast you are trying to shift, the GL-5 oils can be too slippery for the blocker rings work correctly. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet with the Sta-Lube gear GL-4 oil in it. The Sta-Lube took much more effort to pump than the Joe Gibbs Racing gear oil. And it leaves a heavier oil film on everything. From what I have found the Joe Gibbs gear oils are designed to run off quickly to reduce parasitic losses. I guess that's fine for racing applications but maybe not as good for a street car that's rarely driven.
  11. Just throwing this out there, you are spending all this money to build a stroked 302, why not just start over and build a 351W?
  12. Tough call. 7 psi is marginal. If it were mine I'd prefer a little less fuel pressure. And if the carb is more than a year old get a Holley, Quick Fuel or AED brand rebuild kit and freshen it up. The Quick Fuel and AED brand kits overall seem to come with better quality gaskets and parts than the Holley kits.
  13. According to my reproduction Ford wiring diagrams, at the ignition switch there is a red-green wire that has power in both crank and run positions. This is the power wire that goes to the tachometer. The diagram also shows it splicing and going to the fuse panel. I don't know what terminal it would be on the fuse panel. Some people have connected the MSD box like you did and it works. But, a long time ago a friend of mine did that on a Fairlane and had intermittent issues. Sometimes it was fine, and other times it would start and die.
  14. If the distributor is one with a mechanical and vacuum advance and has the Ford OEM 3-wire connector it should work with the MSD ignition box. Picking up the 12V switched power from the original coil wire is incorrect because that runs through the original resistor wire wrapped into the harness under the dash and through the factory tach. That is unless you have changed some of the original wiring. I don't know if the stock coil will work very well or last very long with the MSD. I've never seen that combination. Again, you will need an MSD tach adapter which I believe is p/n 8920 to connect your factory tach to the MSD ignition box. Maybe double check with MSD on the adapter part number needed for an original current triggered tach.
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