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1969_Mach1 last won the day on July 4 2019

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About 1969_Mach1

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. I don't know, those measurements are not near accurate enough to determine what's going on. I don't think I'd stack 1/2" of shims between the upper control arm and the shock tower. At least from the pictures there are no signs of damage. Something might be out of sorts with those upper control arms. Then the alignment shop probably made things worse. Think about it, the alignment shop is not going to spend the time needed to tweak with adjustable control arms. Are both upper control arms adjusted the same? It should at least start there. You might have to get one of those DIY caster/camber and toe alignment kits from some place like Summit Racing and get this setup yourself.
  2. Yeah, you need to look closer at it. Take measurements side to side and be certain everything is symmetrical before throwing more parts at it.
  3. It's hard to determine what's going on with those photo's. Some of the strut rods might help. For some reason they might have adjusted the drivers wheel far forward with the strut rod to get enough positive caster. If so, then you have to find out why, shock tower issue, upper control arm issue, lower control arm mount issue, etc. Also, is the rear axle installed correctly? Probably unrelated, but, what's going on with those upper control arms? I've seen those bushings before, but they are not normal on 1969 Mustangs.
  4. Maybe I missed something, but I briefly looked at your pictures in your other thread. The fan shroud you have is for a radiator with the lower hose on the passenger side. To the best of my knowledge big blocks all have the lower hose on the drivers side and the shrouds are made for that.
  5. I've seen that video. But the small block shroud has a 19" dia. fan opening and in theory there should be 3/4" to 1" clear between the tip of the fan blades and the shroud. So with this setup if everything is perfect there will be 1/2" clear from fan tip to shroud. If something is out-of-sorts the combination probably won't fit.
  6. From your other thread it looks like you have a small block fan shroud and a big block fan. The small block shroud wasn't designed for an 18" fan. I have a 17-1/4" clutch fan in my 1969 Mach 1 with a 351W. Found the used OEM clutch fan on EBay for a Cougar with a 351W and A/C then purchased a new Hayden fan clutch for it. Apparently Cougars had better cooling setups then Mustangs from Ford. Even with that, because of my Griffin radiator I had to further slot the shroud mounting holes so it would drop down a little more.
  7. I think rwcstang hit-the-nail-on-the-head. Without knowing these two things you'll basically keep "floundering". You need to get this sorted out first. If you're like me the budget will limit what can be done.
  8. I guess it's possible your ignition switch is going bad and intermittently not shutting off the switched power to the MSD box. Is your MSD box compatible with 1 wire alternators?
  9. Just my 2 cents. I use an old Holley Street Dominator on a 390 in another project. It's a single plane low profile intake with the Holley 4150 flange. I can't say what the fitment would be with a shaker hood.
  10. It's your car and ultimately your decision, but for that I would just do a mild performance build at most. The static compression ratio on stock 1969 4V 351W motors is pretty high, 10.7:1, so maybe a little more camshaft than stock to help reduce the dynamic compression ratio. Not too aggressive because then manifold vacuum drops, power brakes won't work as well, the stock torque converter won't be compatible with the higher idle RPM. And also as manifold vacuum drops, potential for oil leaks seems to increase. You wouldn't think so, but there seems to be a correlation between the two.
  11. What kind of Mustang is it? If that is an original 1969 351W that hasn't yet been rebuilt, I'd rebuild what is there. The 1969 351W motors are not that easy yo find any more. In the end, if it were mine and that's is the original 351W motor, I'd do a mild performance or relatively stock build using what is already there. I say mild performance or stock because you can easily go down a rabbit hole with a performance build.
  12. That sounds right. That's a nice carb. Is it leaking anywhere or running extremely rich?
  13. Hope Midlife comes along with his explanation, because that makes no sense to me. Simply adding a tach wire to only the engine compartment harness? I've converted a non-tach harness for a factory tach and it involves reworking both the engine compartment and under dash harness, and much more than adding one wire.
  14. Sorry, there is no such carb as a DP with vacuum secondaries. It must be a 750 vacuum secondary carb with two fuel inlets. Probably list number 3310-? If you don't see any fuel leaks, it might be running rich and you are smelling exhaust gas. When was the last time the carb was rebuilt? Many do that once a year with Holley carbs to prevent any issues.
  15. You are certain the wires are connected to the ignition switch correctly? If so, it's possible the new switch is bad since things that operated before now don't. Almost need to check it with an ohmmeter or a simple self powered continuity tester before installing it to be certain you have a good switch. Back to the jumper cables, since it has worked fine when they are connected, do you have another battery, maybe from another car to temporarily install and see if all your issues are resolved. You said your battery was tested at Auto Zone and was okay. But was it tested correctly? It might have a cell going bad but still be able to operate the headlights.
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