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1969_Mach1

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. 1969_Mach1

    Aluminum Thermostat Housing

    Yeah, I've got the OEM style rubber bonded steel core gaskets. Also, the steel core replacement type from Fel-Pro and a set of Moroso steel core silicone gaskets. They are all a little too large to fit the Scott Drake valve covers. The only type that fits Scott Drake valve covers are stock cork or stock rubber type without a steel core. My last try is I ordered Cometic valve cover gaskets. Not their steel core type but their Aramid Fiber type. From the description they look rigid and might fit. Those will be my last try. If they don't work I am trashing the Scott Drake valve covers.
  2. 1969_Mach1

    Aluminum Thermostat Housing

    Thanks for the idea. For now I installed the Dorman aluminum thermostat housing. The bypass hose fitting is a little short. After searching for an appropriate clamp I ended up with one of Comp Cams Gator grand hose clamps. It just fits and it has rolled outer edges so it won't cut into the hose. I like your valve covers. I keep looking at them to replace my Scott Drake brand valve covers + spacer setup. I like the look of the Scott Drake valve covers but I cannot find a good rigid or steel core gasket to fit them. Right now I have stock Fel-Pro rubber gaskets glued to the valve covers with Gaskacinch. It seems to work but I don't like gluing gaskets to hold them in place. Do you know if your valve covers can be installed and removed with the shock tower braces installed?
  3. When you have no spark, follow these instructions from MSD. https://www.holley.com/support/troubleshooting_techniques/ Doing so will determine if it's the MSD 6AL ignition box or the magnetic pick-up inside the MSD distributor. It might have been coincidence that after you installed a new coil the defective part cooled enough to work again. I had the magnetic pick-up coil inside my MSD distributor go bad. Fortunately, my car was still in my driveway. Adjusting the A/F mixture screws will only affect the fuel mixture at idle. At high speed, the main jet size needs to be increased. I've heard Holley main jets interchange with Autolite but I have never tried it so I am not certain. MSD ignition does a good job of keeping the spark plugs clean. The mixture has to be fairly rich to start seeing any color on the spark plugs. All in all, too lean would not contribute to a no spark condition. Focus on figuring out if its the MSD 6AL box or the magnetic pick-up inside the distributor causing no spark when hot. Last I would ask if the original wire to the original ignition coil is being used to power the MSD 6AL box? It should not be because it has a resister wire in the circuit so less than 12V will be supplied. Some get away with using it and some have had odd intermittent issues when using it.
  4. 1969_Mach1

    catalytic converters?

    That spark plug doesn't look bad from what we can see in the picture. What does it look like on the inside, other than the electrode and tip of the porcelain? Do you have any idea of the cam specs? Just wondering if it's a condition that is not too rich but smells that way in the exhaust from a cam with a lot of valve overlap. There are basically two categories of EFI, (1) Speed Density, this was the first type the U.S.A. OEM's developed and phased out in the late 1980's and maybe into the early 1990's. And (2) Mass Air Flow which is still used today. Basic difference is Mass Air Flow directly measures the amount of air entering the motor and Speed Density uses a combination of throttle position, engine RPM, and MAP (manifold absolute pressure) to determine how much air is entering the motor. I'm not certain, but I think all the aftermarket EFI systems still use the early Speed Density Technology. If I remember, one reason the OEM's made the change to Mass Air Flow was to get away from using a MAP signal as an input to determine the air flow entering the motor.
  5. 1969_Mach1

    catalytic converters?

    You're right, in theory the EFI should have sufficient control the A/F mixture. I'm not familiar with aftermarket EFI. But from everything I read they are kind of primitive compared to OEM systems. Aside from that, do you have a bad O2 sensor? When the fail, they fail in a lean signal condition. With increased valve overlap of performance cams, more unburned fuel enters the exhaust. Thus, O2 sensors don't last as long and also cause strong exhaust smell that you cannot get rid of. Are you using a cam designed for EFI? They typically have a wider lobe separation angle. If you put catalytic convertors on an overly rich running engine or engine with a large duration and larger valve overlap cam two thing will occur. First like Barnett mentioned, the smell will be different but still very bad. It will be a strong sulfur smell. Second, you can overheat the convertor. In one case back in the late 1980's I saw a convertor start a fire on an overly rich running new car.
  6. 1969_Mach1

    Help with idenfifying my Cam

    What I started to post earlier but then deleted was that is sounds like you have a pretty good motor and rear axle gear combination right now. It might be best at this time to simply work with what you have. Maybe a torque convertor with a slightly higher stall speed to eliminate that lunging when the trans is put into gear. But with your trans in the condition it's in, you might have to put that of until later as well. Your current cam should work fine with power brakes. Keep in mind, sometimes if the carb idle is too lean, the idle speed will have be higher than necessary to keep the motor idling while in gear. When you eventually get to the point of tuning again, sometimes adjusting the A/F mixture with the trans in gear will help. I've only known a couple of people with basically stock 4 barrel Cleveland motors and they had the same complaint as you, not much low end power.
  7. 1969_Mach1

    Hi Amps, need serpentine

    On mine the A/C compressor and P/S pump are in the same location as yours. But,the alternator is up high on the passenger side and there is a smog pump low on the passenger side. I think the smog pump was on all 5.8L motors for 1995. The 5.0L motors didn't need a smog pump to meet emissions requirements. Either that or it's because its a California truck with California emissions. I have seen smog pump eliminator kits. Basically a pulley and mounting bracket assembly that replaces the smog pump.
  8. 1969_Mach1

    Hi Amps, need serpentine

    My 1995 F150 with a 351W originally came with a small case 3G 95A alternator. About 15 years ago I replaced it with a large case 3G 130A alternator. It fits just fine. Same serpentine belt fits as well. I agree, I don't like the looks of the aftermarket billet aluminum serpentine kits as well.
  9. 1969_Mach1

    Help with idenfifying my Cam

    With my limited experience, I'd say the Crane cam you are removing is fairly mild for a 351 CID motor and would have a smooth idle or very mild rough idle. If it has a lopey idle, I'd look at something else, too lean, vacuum leak, etc. Your new cam is fairly aggressive and will have a lopey idle. Is that what you are looking for? A 600 CFM carb is kind of small for a Cleveland. This cam will definitely want something larger. Do you need a 10 degree split duration on a Cleveland? I'd research that a bit if it were my motor before final cam selection. Headers + good dual exhaust minimize the need for that split.
  10. 1969_Mach1

    Chasing a Vibration - Flex Plate?

    For the relatively low price of flex plates, I'd get a new one and make certain it is correct for your motor before balancing. Just think of the problems that can occur if the flex plate later needs to be replaced. I know the machine shop should catch it if you have the wrong combination of parts. But if they don't and try to balance the assembly you bring, you can yell and scream and blame them all you want. But, bottom line, the damage will be done and a small mess made worse. One that you will likely have to straighten out.
  11. 1969_Mach1

    Unbearable squeaking coming from the front

    The spring perch is attached to the upper control arm. Those very rarely have any squeak issues. I've never heard squeaks from the spring perches myself. Does the lower control arm still have stock rubber type bushings where it attaches to the frame? If so and you think its coming from the lower control arm, it's possible somebody tightened the pivot bolts at the frame before the car was sitting on the ground under it's own weight at final ride height. That potentially will tear the rubber bushings loose from either the inner or outer steel sleeve and cause major squeaks. Try liberally lubing the rubber bushings with a penetrating oil and see if the squeak temporarily stops. Were the upper control arms replaced? If not, does it still has the original bushings attaching the control arms to the body. That is a common source of major squeaks. If the lower perches are worn and you want to replace them, Scott Drake makes perches using modern material greaseable bushings and have free rotation like a bearing. They are about $50 each. On a street car the roller perches are a waste of money, in my opinion. They are a nice idea but kind of gimmicky. Also they are modified from cheap imported stock perches. If by chance somebody installed urethane bushings in the lower control arms, they need to be liberally greased with a synthetic grease or anti-seize compound to prevent squeaking. If you are not certain of the source of the noise, a stethoscope and somebody else bouncing on the car helps to pinpoint the noise. https://www.lowes.com/pd/KD-Tools-Automotive-Mechanics-Stethoscope/50164961?cm_mmc=SCE_BINGPLA_ONLY-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-SosHandTools-_-50164961:KD_Tools&CAWELAID=&kpid=50164961&CAGPSPN=pla{ifdyn:dyn}&k_clickID=81301667-5802-4ff2-af87-a38b4ca7cbaf&msclkid=1f486b063b111e12a45e30c2fa2888c6
  12. Have you checked for spark at the spark plugs when it will not start???? We can play 20 questions, but again, that is the first thing to do. Then you will know which path to pursue, ignition or fuel.
  13. What type of MSD ignition do you have? First thing to determine is if there is spark when it will not start. If you find no spark at the plugs then also check for spark coming out of the coil. A spark tester makes it a little easier. I use one like this for high output electronic ignitions. But there are many others. https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6589.aspx?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scbplpOTC6589&sc_intid=OTC6589 If there is no spark anywhere and you have one of MSD's CD type ignition systems (not the ready to run distributor) here is a simple test to determine if it's the magnetic pickup in the distributor or the ignition box. https://www.holley.com/support/troubleshooting_techniques/
  14. Are the stock points ignition still being used? Have you checked for spark at a spark plug during the time it will not start? That's the very first thing to do to narrow the problem down to spark or fuel. If there is spark at the spark plugs and the motor will not start I guess it could be vapor lock like unilec is thinking and a phenolic spacer might help. That is not common for Autolite carbs. How hot is the motor running? Fuel line between the pump and carb getting too hot can also cause vapor lock. Are the carb idle air-fuel mixture screws adjusted correctly?
  15. 1969_Mach1

    decided to make a frame jig

    Nice work. I'm a bit envious of the nice big shop you have to work in.
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