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1969_Mach1 last won the day on December 2

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About 1969_Mach1

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. Those band clamps look like the cheaper bands for what are known as a Tri-Clamp setup for process piping. There are ferules (or flanges) welded to each tube, an o-ring type gasket in the middle to seal the connection, and the band clamp that cinches everything together. I'm always amazed when car builders use this stuff on things like exhaust and they think they are using trick new technology. But it's been around for probably 30+ years for process piping and they're actually using some of the cheaper components on cars.
  2. Why not just use all rubber heater hose? Get the type with molded 90 degree ends where needed. By the time you have hose-stainless tube-hose plus all those clamps it won't look any cleaner, just different. Might be making more work than needed. Plus stainless conducts heat much faster than aluminum or steel so those tubes will get extremely hot. I ran my heater hoses along the right shock tower and strapped them to the export brace. It gets them off the motor so the motor looks a little less cluttered. I needed the type with a 90 degree molded end for the firewall end where they attach to the heater core.
  3. Had two back in the early-mid 1980's. One behind a 351W and another behind a 390. Never had any leaking issues back then. They worked great and can take a fair amount of abuse in stock form. I think something is being overlooked, seal not fitting very well, shaft worn, bore worn so shaft wobbles to much.
  4. 1969_Mach1

    Why are oil pans so darn expensive?

    With the ridiculous high prices for reproduction parts, and parts in general for these cars, I'm surprised somebody is drawing the line at oil pans.
  5. 1969_Mach1

    Solid state regulator for gauges?

    Sorry about that. Disregard my previous post.
  6. 1969_Mach1

    Solid state regulator for gauges?

    To the best of my knowledge, there is not a resistor wire in the circuit for the constant voltage regulator. If it is a factory tach IP car then there are two resistor wires. (1) for the ignition coil from the tachometer. (2) one 15 ohm resistor wire parallel to the charge indicator light. The non-tach IP cars have only the resistor wire for the ignition coil. Does the fuel gauge work? If so, then the constant voltage regulator is working and I'd suspect bad connections to the printed circuit panel, the printed circuit panel, or bad connections between the gauges and printed circuit panel.
  7. 1969_Mach1

    Fuel line isn’t sealing

    Yes, AN is 37 degrees and seal much better with less torque on the fitting than inverted flare which is 45 degrees. I fought inverted flare fittings on my fuel lines for years. They would seal fine, then will not seal the next time a fitting was disconnected and reconnected. At least so far, no more leaking issues since switching to AN fittings.
  8. 1969_Mach1

    1970 Fastback

    I went through that same thing myself many years ago because I don't really have a lot of confidence with hose clamps on the pressure side. I originally put the filter the same place you did. Fits good and is convenient. Then I realized that car mfgs. never did that so I found a couple of articles, one was from BG Carbs. The gist of it was with mechanical fuel pumps it's more difficult for the pump to draw fuel through a filter than push it through on the pressure side. What you did works fine most of the time. I guess there is some potential for the maximum flow rate to be reduced some with the filter on the suction side. I ended up with a filter and a hard line from the pump to the carb, all with AN fittings. Doesn't look original but has been very reliable. I made certain I purchased a filter that had higher a higher flow rate capacity than the pump.
  9. 1969_Mach1

    1970 Fastback

    The filter should be between the pump and the carburetor not on the suction side of the pump. There is a screen on the end of the pickup tube in the tank to catch the larger debree. I use the Pop-Open gas cap that has the small twist on cap underneath. It's a Ford NOS item I got from Perogie Enterprises. Works good and it's safer. Ford resigned these because the original type would pop open in an accident. I don't know if there were ant TSB's or the twist on type is just a newer safer design.
  10. 1969_Mach1

    69 mach1 alternator wiring harness

    A freshly charged battery will often have more than 13V. For the last 15 years when my Mach 1 is parked I've disconnected the battery and have kept a Battery Tender on my Optima Red Top battery. I just disconnected the Battery Tender and measured the battery voltage, it was 13.47V. What shuts off the light is equal voltage on both sides of the bulb to stop current flow through the filament. I'm thinking it should shut off with the battery voltage he has. Battery voltage, 2.1V per cell, 6 cells equals 12.6V. You usually see 12.6V plus or minus a couple of tenths on a battery that has been sitting for a while.
  11. 1969_Mach1

    69 mach1 alternator wiring harness

    Rindelmach1, Do you have a copy of the factory Ford service manuals? They are reprinted and inexpensive. If so, look on page 14-01-02 of Volume 3, Electrical, figure 1. There is a simplified electrical schematic showing everything in the charging system including internal regulator and alternator components. From looking at mine, your problem can easily be the regulator or no voltage output from the stator terminal on the alternator. Stator output voltage on the alternator is roughly half of the charging voltage. The stator voltage goes to the "S" terminal on the regulator. This in turn operates a relay inside the regulator to turn off the light. My manuals are hard copy. I'll try to take a picture of the diagram and upload it.
  12. 1969_Mach1

    New welder

    Haven't you ever welded with oxy-acetylene torches? Same or similar technique. I've only TIG welded a couple of times and it was easier than welding with oxy-acetylene torches. Here's a bit of a tip. Those stack-of-dimes weld beads that so many fabricators strive for are not the strongest type of bead. The valleys in those beads cause stress risers just like the sharp inside corner of a bracket or something else. AWS has dimension limits on peaks and valleys in a weld bead. Inspectors will make the welder grind off and reweld beads that look like a stack-of -dimes. That's too bad but it makes sense.
  13. 1969_Mach1

    Change Rear End Gear Ratio

    Someone with more engine building experience than me will eventually chime in (like Barnett). I'm no expert, but 145 psi is kind of low for an 11:1 CR motor. I imagine it's because of a long duration and long valve overlap cam. Either that, or somebodies math was off when selecting parts. Yes, a number 64 main jet sounds small. Especially for that large of a motor. Strange why such a small main jet is needed. The cylinder pressure might be contributing to why it is not pinging. Like I mentioned somebody with more experience should eventually chime in.
  14. 1969_Mach1

    Stripped sheet metal holes

    Oh, okay, that makes sense.
  15. 1969_Mach1

    Stripped sheet metal holes

    I might be wrong, but I believe the sill plates use what is called an oval head screw not a flat head screw.