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1969_Mach1

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1969_Mach1 last won the day on July 4 2019

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About 1969_Mach1

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. Yeah I read a recent review on Harland Sharp rockers, end result they were fine, but the guy had to do extensive cleaning and chase the threads in all the rockers before he could install them. I was shocked how poorly made the PRW aluminum rocker arms were. I expected something not as good as some higher end U.S. made rockers, but never thought I'd get something not even usable. The other option I am aware of that's the most reasonably priced are from Precision Oil Pumps.
  2. I'm guessing the intake in installed by now, but ARP has intake studs for small block Ford motors. Makes installing the intake easy and less concern about pulling threads out of those aluminum cylinder heads. Is it my eyes or does that intake not fit the cylinder heads very well? I see the gasket in place but there appears to be a gap at the top and contact at the bottom.
  3. Update, I purchased a set of aluminum PRW rocker arms and will be returning them tomorrow. The quality of the rocker arms is terrible. Finish is rough, one had a small crack on the top surface, a lot of them had lines scored through the top surfaces, and one of the bronze bushings fell out of one of the rocker arms and doesn't have a press fit. Harland Sharp offers a set that fit onto the original shafts. I might go that route. The shafts, stands, and spacers looked fine, but the rocker arms were terrible. I'm guessing the rockers come from a different vendor than the other components. Especially since the shafts, stands and spacers look the same as what everybody else sells. But the rocker arms look unique to PRW.
  4. With those stock rocker arms you have, what kind of valve lift does your cam have? I am using a Comp 280 Magnum that has about 0.530" lift with the non adjustable 1.73:1 rocker arms. With the adjustable 1.76:1 rocker arms it would be 0.540" lift. Is that too much for a stock rocker arm? Open spring pressure is at 280 lbs. I have a set of original adjustable rocker arms in good condition. Machine shop says they have the tooling to resurface the end that contacts the valve tip. Not certain yet if I want to use them.
  5. What rocker arms did you end up using? I'm kind of new to FE motor parts. Why are they so expensive? The machine shop said the import PRW's would work fine because I have relatively low spring pressure. But I've read so many bad things about them. Almost have to just pick something and see what happens.
  6. I should have been more clear, I want adjustable also so I know the lifters are adjusted correctly.
  7. Thanks. So far Precision Oil Pumps has the best price for a U.S. made rocker arm. Since they sell everything in components I'll have to contact them to find out if their rockers will work with the original shafts, and stands. Maybe I can get away with only purchasing their rocker arms and maybe spacers. I'm using a hydraulic flat tappet cam and not a lot of spring pressure, 115 lbs. on seat and 280 lbs. open so from what I understand the stock stands and shafts are just fine. And mine are in good condition. I have a good set of stock adjustable rocker arms but I would prefer something with a roller tip for less valve guide wear.
  8. Since FE motor rocker arms seem so ridiculously expensive, anybody here have experience with the PRW rocker arms for an FE motor? I'm also looking at the Harland Sharp rockers only, and install them on my original shafts. Harland Sharp said they will work with stock shafts, stands, and spring spacers. I'm thinking the stock steel spring spacers are going to grind away at the aluminum rocker arms. Any thoughts are appreciated.
  9. Just put a manual transmission in it. Most today won't be able to drive it.
  10. I've so far had good luck with MSD 6ALN boxes. I've never tried the basic 6A or 6AL boxes and I think (but not sure) they are made oversea. I recently purchased another 6ALN for a new project and it is still made in USA. Plus they should be installed in an area that gets good air flow for cooling and obviously as far from heat sources as possible.
  11. If you don't have much experience adjusting the valves I'd suggest go to Comp Cams website and look for the instructions they offer. It's a tedious method of one valve at a time and rotate the crank each time. But, it assures the lifter for the valve you are adjusting is where it's supposed to be, on the heel of the cam lobe, and the lifter gets preloaded correctly.
  12. I'm curious to see if you can get it tuned and running good with the current combination or ultimately a cam change will be needed. A Holley 700 CFM mechanical secondary carb Holley list 4778-8 runs good on my mild 351W motor. A 650 CFM Holley mechanical secondary carb, list 4777, is a little more crisp but it seems to pull harder in mid-range with the 700.
  13. Check basic stuff like others mentioned, vacuum leaks, etc. Keep in mind that is a fairly aggressive cam, especially in a 351W for street driving. It doesn't surprise me that the vacuum drops off the way you describe. If your car has vacuum assist power brakes, they won't work. If you have a larger carb, it might be worth a try, 650-700-750 cfm. Maybe a mechanical secondary carb. The 500 and 570 are a little small for a mild 351W, but, that cam will make matters worse and they might have too lean of an idle circuit for it. If your 500 and 570 carbs have an operating choke, that would explain why it runs better cold (richer A/F mixture). When you do get it running with that cam, you'll need a fairly low rear axle gear ratio. Plus, if it's an auto trans car, the stock torque converter will not work. After you obtain a good neutral idle, it will likely die when you drop it into gear. Or you will have to turn the idle speed up fairly high and it will lung hard and creep when you put it into gear. Again, check the basic stuff first. If all is okay, maybe consider a less aggressive cam or do more work to tune the motor for that cam.
  14. I have to ask because I tried a kit sold through Scott Drake. After installing the base retractor can you move the seat all the way back? With the kit I tried the base retractor hit the seats and they could not go back all the way. My legs are too long for that and need the seat all the way back.
  15. The main issue I found with those aftermarket 3-point retractor belt systems, when installing them in the stock locations, is the retractor is larger than stock so the front seats will not go back all the way. At 5'-10" I couldn't use them because I have the seat back as far as it can go. So, I use the stock lap belts and leave the shoulder harness belts clipped into the holders in the roof. I know it's not as safe.
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