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1969_Mach1

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1969_Mach1 last won the day on May 10

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. I've used mineral spirits to remove residue. At least when I've done it, the mineral spirits softens the residue and it comes off easily.
  2. 1969_Mach1

    Suspension for the every day driver

    For the 1969 Mustang, if I understand the OP wants a softer ride. First thing would be replace the 18" wheels with 15" wheels and a 60 or 65 series tires. As far as feeling unstable "(squirrelly)" at highway speeds, it could be as simple as not enough positive caster in the front wheel alignment. Beyond that, if the suspension and steering components are in good condition, I'd look closely at the power steering control valve and/or the steering box.
  3. You need to look for a 1994 or newer 351W block, the casting numbers start with F4TE. The casting numbers are near the starter area. These are factory hydraulic roller compatible blocks. I know the 1995 and 1996 F150 pickups used these blocks and are factory hydraulic roller cam motors. I know the 1994 351W in an F150 was not hydraulic roller cam motor. I am not certain if the 1994 F150 used the F4TE hydraulic roller block but with a flat tappet cam. The 351W was also used in some F250 pickups. The years would be 1995, 1996, and fairly certain 1997. I am also in norther CA, a little south from you. I think there are one or two wrecking yards that specialize in trucks in northern CA.
  4. 1969_Mach1

    Stock exhaust system

    Three mufflers with 2-1/2" tubing is going to be a mess under the car, if it even fits very well. I wouldn't consider a transverse muffler. With the horsepower goal. To have it sound stock might not be possible. I know late model cars are not very loud and some make over 450 hp. But don't forget they all have catalytic convertors on each side. Some have two and three catalytic convertors on each side. Those, by themselves quite the exhaust some. I would set it up with one muffler for each side like shown above, but for 2-1/2" tubing. Use the 2-1/2" tubing, an X-pipe, and keep the exhaust tips about the same diameter as the tail pipes, not smaller and not those large diameter megaphone type tips. And be finished with it. Stock sounding exhaust will be negated by the use of long tube headers, a longer duration early exhaust valve opening camshaft, and higher cylinder pressures. Sorry to sound negative, but you might be going down a rabbits hole.
  5. 1969_Mach1

    Huge loss for the family

    Terribly sorry for your loss. 7- years old is too young. That is a very difficult heart breaking situation. Large dogs are great companions and it sometimes seems they bond with their families more so than small dogs. I've been there 4 times with Golden Retrievers. Three when they were young, 8 and 9 years old due to cancer. But, I keep getting another one. You never forget them but the pain will go away with time.
  6. 1969_Mach1

    Stock exhaust system

    Mach1 Driver, you mentioned something to do with Corvette mufflers. A good friend of mine just had the stock mufflers replaced on his Challenger SRT. I have to ask again what brand they were. But they were from a company that makes a lot of the mufflers used on late model Corvettes. They were relatively quite under normal driving. A little loud with real aggressive driving.
  7. 1969_Mach1

    Stock exhaust system

    Yeah, there are a lot of topics I don't agree with barnett468 on. It's just the way it goes. Different opinions and thoughts.
  8. 1969_Mach1

    Stock exhaust system

    I think you should have a 2-1/2" diameter exhaust system for the horsepower goal you have in mind. As far as quite, muffler and exhaust tip choice is the key, and use full length tail pipes. Myself, I don't like the sound you get from Magna Flow mufflers. But that;s simply my preference. Whatever muffler you choose, select the largest possible that fits well under the car. Also, exhaust tip diameter has a large affect on exhaust noise. Keep the exhaust tips close to the diameter of the pipe. Larger diameter exhaust tips increase the exhaust noise. I use Borla mufflers. Relatively quite under normal driving and loud when driving aggressively. But, the Borla mufflers do not create the low pitch in car drone you get from chambered mufflers like Flowmaster. Borla's are a straight through design similar to Magna Flow but have a different sound. I think an old school Turbo type mufflers, tailpipes, and not large exhaust tips would give you the quitest sound for an aftermarket system. Lastly, an X-pipe instead of an H-pipe mellows the exhaust note a little and is suppose be better for performance.
  9. I think that would be my first option as well. Except, here in California, wrecking yards are basically dismantlers. They do not store cars (very few do), they simply remove the valuable stuff to resell and crush/recycle the remainder of the car. Most have good knowledge of their motor inventory. So, basically a lot of phone calls to find the lowest possible mileage untouched roller motor. In once sense, it's easier than spending days walking through wrecking yards.
  10. Not much to add here. One thing is for certain, your existing 302 is beyond rebuilding or refreshing. The options now are (1) get another worn out but rebuildable motor and rebuild it, (2) try to find something used at a wrecking yard that is hopefully in good condition. If you go this route, for 302 motors get something that is 1985 or newer, for 351W motors get something from a 1995 or 1996 F150. Any of those selections will get you a motor that has a factory hydraulic roller cam setup. (3) Research getting a new or rebuilt crate motor. I'm not a big fan of this option since quality is all over the place and they typically use the cheapest parts available. Best of luck.
  11. Tough decision. They all look good. Right now I'm leaning toward the silver finish. It looks closest to the Argent. The car is Meadowlark Yellow.
  12. I didn't have much luck with a Motorcraft sending unit in my 1969 Mach 1. Gauge was always reading a lower than I thought is should (below middle of range) when a mechanical gauge would indicate 50 psi. Easiest thing to do was swap out the oil pressure sending unit. So I installed a Standard Motors Product (SMP) sending unit. The gauge reading increased significantly. I suspect the Motorcraft sending unit is for later model cars and not calibrated quite right for the gauges in these cars.
  13. stangs-R-me, thanks for the information. I was initially thinking of the Legendary Magnum 500 with the Charcoal color center until I saw the LW60 wheels. Plus, I like the look of the original chrome styled steel wheels better than Magnum 500 wheels. But I agree, the repro all chrome styled steel wheels are far too much chrome. They're almost as bad as the old school all chrome smoothies.
  14. Since I am now afraid to drive on my 22+ year old tires I am looking a new tires and wheels in a 15 x 7 size and just save my original chrome styled steel wheels. The LW60 above is what I am considering. Is the quality of legendary wheels fairly good? It almost appears Legendary is a Scott Drake company. Are they imported or U.S. made?
  15. 1969_Mach1

    Upgrading to EFI

    If I had the budget for an EFI conversion I'd go with a Holly Sniper or the more expensive Holley Terminator system and one of their fuel tank with internal fuel pump kits. Mostly for reasons like Mach1 Driver mentioned. Holley has been in the fuel system industry for a long time. My thoughts are Holley has more background and technical knowledge when it comes to fuel systems. I honestly don't know if EFI will net much more power over a properly selected and tuned carb. But it should be easier to get dialed in.
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