1969_Mach1

It says in the description at Gateway Mustang that the stock mounting points for the upper control arm are removed and the kit works with only their suspension. Since the control arm drop you are considering is only 1", my thought is the Gateway Mustang kit will not work. When they were modifying 1969 Mustangs for the Boss 429, the shock towers were notched for needed clearance. But, they also modified (shortened) the upper control arms.

That's a tough call. I'd say it's not going to get you much more than one coat. Before committing to using that paint, maybe try it on another small part first to get an idea of how well it covers. Maybe do a little research before spraying it. Eastwood has paints in spray cans that are advertised as correct in color and sheen. I'd also look at SEM and see if they have something suitable. Innovative Repair And Refinishing Products | SEM Products

Maybe I'm wrong, but my thoughts are, unless you are going down to bare metal, I'd use something like mineral spirits instead of lacquer thinner for the initial clean to remove the large amounts of grease. Then thorough cleaning with a strong soap and hot water. The lacquer thinner will soften whatever paint or primer remains. After completely dry use a Grease and Wax remover. After all that, sanding or scuffing, address any surface rust, then clean clean again with grease and wax remover. Some will try acetone instead of grease and wax remover, but, that can also soften any existing paint. Duplicolor spray cans have a nice spray pattern for a can. But, you will need a lot of cans. Each coat is extremely light and doesn't cover very well. I use to use Duplicolor because it's available everywhere. Now Duplicolor is my very last option for spray can paints. If you are going the single stage spray can route, which is fine, I'd first look to see what SEM offers.

That shouldn't be a problem. When I rebuilt mine I ended needing new gears, etc. like you went through. At times on the bench it looked like a brass blocker ring might stick to a gear. But, it works fine. When doing your final checks on the bench all I can add is make certain everything is well lubricated with a GL4 rated gear oil (not GL5 or GL4 and GL5 rated). I also used a trans assembly lube for assembly as it has a low melting point and mixes with the oil. Greases for assembly will never melt and mix in. So with greases any metal shavings from a fresh rebuilt (which will happen) will stick to the grease and won't drain out with the oil. Be certain to change the oil frequently to get any metal particles out. They say 500 miles, I've changed mine twice in about 100 miles. So far okay. Initially I had a trans shop rebuild mine, they used grease for assembly and didn't inform me to change the oil soon after use. After a few hundred miles metal particles from the rebuild ruined the rear bearing and the inside of the case was completely coated with grease and embedded metal particles.

Number of tube rows and cooling capacity is debatable. You'll notice the higher end aluminum radiators typically have two rows of 1" or 1-1/4" wide tubes. The lower cost radiators typically have 3 or more rows of smaller width tubes. US Radiator has some information on different core types. Cores | US Radiator

Yeah, in today's market I'd go with something less expensive. Like I mentioned, when I needed one, Griffin was the only mfg. offering a direct fit aluminum radiator. Plus, the cost was much less back then.

Keep in mind, switching to electric fans often leads to upgrading the charging system and associated wiring. In my Mach 1, 351W car I use Griffin 24" wide radiator, it has 2 rows of 1-1/4" wide tubes. OEM fan shroud and an OEM 6 blade 17" clutch fan setup. Seems fine, runs about 170-175 degrees with a 160 degree Stewart high flow thermostat. Griffin is expensive, but, when I needed one many years ago they were the only mfg. offering a direct fit aluminum radiator. Today I would look for something less expensive.

My 2 cents. Wiring like your initial diagram, I think is the best for that type of starter. (1) It will eliminate any potential for the disengagement issues. (2) The original Ford starter relay and not the ignition switch will carry the current to energize the solenoid attached to the top of the starter. An old school trick GM people would do before all these high torque PMGR starters was to add a Ford starter relay and wire the starter just like your original diagram. The Ford relay can more easily carry the current to energize the starter solenoid than the ignition switch and wiring from the switch.

If Holley doesn't offer a Tach adapter, MSD offers two different styles. I don't recall the part number, but the more expensive version is what is needed to work with current triggered tachs. Since the adapter connects to the Tach output terminal of an MSD ignition box, it might work with your Holley setup.

I believe you are correct. I've purchased starters of that style and the instructions indicate there will be problems with it disengaging unless it's wired like the diagram in the initial post. With that said, Powermaster does offer another style PMGR starter that can be wired like Midlife has mentioned. I have one on my Mach 1 and it will work wired either like the original diagram posted or like Midlife mentioned.

I'd hang on to the press. You can do more with it than you think, and not just axle bearings. If you rebuild your own differential, it's needed, manual trans, it's needed, a simple distributor gear change or removal and installation, it's needed. Need to dimple a piece of thin wall tubing or thin sheet metal, the press can do it with a little creative setup. It will also straighten or bend thick steel pieces. Need to modify an air cleaner base so it drops down a little more, you can do that with the hydraulic press. Want to change out some rubber suspension bushings, the press is needed or at least makes the job much easier. So there are many uses for it, not just axle bearings.

You might need to get away from a stock style starter and move to a permanent magnet gear reduction starter. They're smaller in size so are less prone to heat soak from close proximity to headers. Powermaster usually offers several options.

Yeah, it doesn't sound good. I think I'd look for something else if I were in the market for cylinder heads.

I installed Moser Engineering axles in my 1969 Mach 1. I like them, no issues. However, make certain you get axles with the access hole for the retainer plate nuts otherwise it's more difficult to install and remove them. Also, just my preference, but I don't like the C-shape retainer plates aftermarket axles come with. They are made of a thick material, but the stock style seem better.