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1969_Mach1

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1969_Mach1 last won the day on August 14

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About 1969_Mach1

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    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. 1969_Mach1

    Starting problems

    I'll risk another post. First thought was like others, the air cleaner is interfering with the choke mechanism. But if it's that and all else is okay I'd think it would fire up and die or fire up and stay running as long as he works the throttle. Or does it fire up and die and the OP hasn't mentioned that? It eventually does start and run just fine. No fuel in the carb? If it's not a simple air cleaner interference issue I'm a little suspicious of the ignition system. Was the ignition timing reset after the Pertronix was installed? A cold engine requires more secondary voltage to fire a spark plug. Marginally weak spark will cause hard starting when cold. Is the Pertronix properly connected to 12V? I've never used Pertronix and still not a fan of them. I've had cars not start cold simply because the spark plug wires were marginal so the spark at the plugs was too weak when cold. I tend to use this to check for spark at a plug or out of the coil on high output ignition systems. It should jump that big gap. There is also one with a center electrode sticking out for stock points ignition. I'm truly not certain which one is suitable for your ignition system. But's they are very simple and quick to use when the motor cranks but will not start. You'll quickly know if you are chasing a spark or fuel issue.
  2. 1969_Mach1

    Starting problems

    I guess I missed another one. Getting good at that. Gonna stop posting pretty soon.
  3. 1969_Mach1

    70 rear brakes locking

    If it's a master cylinder for drum brakes it should have residual check valve in it. I wouldn't focus too much energy on finding the residual check valve. Unless the rear wheel cylinders are worn badly, rusty, pitted, and are relatively new, the seals should work well enough on their own. On a side note, rebuilding a wheel cylinder usually doesn't last very long simply because the honed finish from cleaning the bore causes rapid wear on the rubber seals. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it will absorb moisture. If you are having a moisture issue in the brake system make certain you always use fresh new sealed containers of brake fluid. If you use brake fluid from a container that was opened a long time ago, even though stored, it can have moisture in it. Not much more I can offer. I think you are fighting mismatched parts. Not saying there isn't a solution. But it can be more difficult to find.
  4. 1969_Mach1

    Starting problems

    Could be a couple of things. Fuel in the carb is percolating and flooding the motor. Edelbrock carbs have a history of issues like percolating and vapor lock due to heat. More so when on an aluminum intake manifold that has the heat crossover passage open. No spark condition is another possible option. You'd have to quickly check for spark at a spark plug when the motor won't start. If you believe the spark is okay I would first try a phenolic carb spacer to help insulate the carb from heat. Use the 4-hole type if you have a stock intake or aftermarket dual plane intake manifold.
  5. 1969_Mach1

    Classic Car Insurance and Teenagers

    All I can say is when I purchased my insurance through Hagerty I had to send them pictures of the car and the garage where it will be stored. If there are any drastic changes to the car or storage area I hold the responsibility to send them revised pictures. That doesn't seem like too much for them to ask. I didn't need any type of proof of work done to the car or cost of parts spent. That's ridiculous. Some purchase these cars complete and won't have that information. Then, an agreed upon value is determined. You are not limited to when you can drive the car. But you do select the estimated annual mileage it will be driven. So you are right in one sense, Hagerty will not value a $3000 car for $45000. However, non classic car insurance companies like Allsate, Statefarm, etc, will not value your $45000 classic car for $45000. That value will be much less. They basically use Kelly Blue Book to valuate cars and we all know with Kelly Blue Book age is big factor so the ACV as you keep mentioning will be much less than $45000. In my mind I don't care what the arguments are, if I have an option, I'm going to use classic car insurance for a classic car. You can have all the proof needed to verify how much you've invested and spent on your classic car. If your classic car is totaled and you are trying two get full value for it from a basic auto insurance company It won't help much and you will be in for a fight with legal fees that can easily will drag out for years. To the best of my knowledge and from my experience when a car is totaled only a small percentage of the money spent on a car dating back one year from the incident will be considered to add value.
  6. 1969_Mach1

    70 rear brakes locking

    It is quite a mixture of brake parts. Nothing to add to the brake lockup issue. Regarding the residual check valve mentioned in the original post. It is basically internal to the master cylinder. Behind the tube seat in the outlet port to the rear brakes. It's purpose is to help prevent the rear wheel cylinders from leaking by maintaining a very small amount of pressure against the seals.
  7. 1969_Mach1

    voltmeter install

    Yes, it seems like a better method.
  8. 1969_Mach1

    voltmeter install

    Can't you also disconnect (cut) the wires feeding the original ammeter a few inches before the electrical connector to the printed circuit panel? Then put heat shrink tubing over the ends of the newly cut wires on the harness side, and wire your voltmeter using the two cut short wires sticking out of the printed circuit panel connector? I only ask this because I have used electrical tape long enough to know it sometimes loosens and falls off. I wouldn't have much faith in wrapping it around the bare copper terminals on the printed circuit panel.
  9. My 69 has a 351W motor. The Saginaw pump fit fine with the bracket kit from Borgeson. It's simply one bracket and some spacers the bolt to the front of the cylinder head. I don't know if it will fit a Cleveland. You can purchase the bracket kit or pump and bracket kit from Summit Racing. If it doesn't fit, return it. When I did my conversion I purchased the pump and bracket kit that Borgeson offered. If there were any issues I didn't want Borgeson to blame it on somebody else's pump. Bronco Graveyard has better Saginaw pump brackets than Borgeson for small block Fords. I didn't know about them when I did my conversion. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/GM-Saginaw-Power-Steering-Pump-Kit/productinfo/12846/ Borgeson Pump and bracket kit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-800330
  10. 1969_Mach1

    oil pan installation

    Like fvike mentioned there are one piece gaskets for the older pain with ribs on the gasket rails and for the newer pans with smooth gasket rails. Make certain you have the correct gasket. I've had good luck with Fel-Pro's Perma Dry Plus one piece gaskets. But it still takes a fairly heavy film of silicone on both sides of the gasket around the rear main cap and timing cover, and a dab of it in the corners. I leave the gasket on the side rails dry. Also, the Fel-Pro Perma Dry Plus oil pan gaskets come with four plastic retainer studs that thread into the oil pan bolt holes and hold the gasket in place. Push the oil pan up and they also hold the oil pan in place. Get a few bolts starts then simply unscrew the plastic retainers. They help a lot.
  11. The Ford power steering pump that came in these cars doesn't create enough pressure and some say volume for the Borgeson power steering box. The Borgeson box requires a pump that can create something like 1200-1250 psi. The test pressure specs in my Ford service manuals the these Ford pumps is 800-850 psi. So I am guessing 800-850 psi is about the max for a Ford pump in these cars. My Borgeson power steering box works great with the Saginaw (GM style) power steering pump. Borgeson claimed to me that is "should work with my Ford pump IF it makes enough pressure". I pushed them a little on that statement and got no response. I didn't bother with Ford pump and installed the Saginaw pump from the beginning. At the time I didn't know anything about the 1970-1977 truck power steering pump. You might find some info for that pump on the Ford truck forums.
  12. 1969_Mach1

    Boss 302 clone

    I've only seen one true Boss 302 up close in my life. It was a 1970 at Checkered Flag Classic Cars in the town I live in. The 69 and 70 Boss 302's are my favorite Mustangs so I had to stop and look at it. It was the real thing. It looked like a professional concourse restoration. Apparently the owner had driven it about 5000 miles since the restoration. When I looked at it the price was $85,000. It sat it their showroom for only a week. On that Craigslist clone, I wonder how they eliminated the scoops in the quarter panels? That thing doesn't seem worth the $16K they are asking.
  13. 1969_Mach1

    Looking for Gauges with Tach

    I misread the original post. I thought Jack already had an original instrument cluster with a tach. Those are very rare. Even more for the deluxe interior and Mach 1 bluish grey gauge face color. One in good condition with all the gauges and tach operating will be very expensive. You can try Perogie Enterprises. That would be my first phone call for something like that. If you find one that needs some gauges or the tach repaired I would first use Rocketmans Classic Cougar Innovations or Red Line Gauge Works. Tachman does good work but can be moody. Catch him on a bad day and you'll wish you went somewhere else. If the tach doesn't work usually the only option is to have it retrofit since usually the movement assembly fails and those are not available new.
  14. 1969_Mach1

    Classic Car Insurance and Teenagers

    I think the bottom line is he will need to get classic car insurance to have it valuated at it's true value and not simply a 48 year old car with a few hundred thousand miles on it.
  15. 1969_Mach1

    Looking for Gauges with Tach

    Worst case is you can rewire your existing under hood harness to work with OEM tach. The underdash harness needs a little modification but not as much as the under hood harness. I've done it once. Takes some time studying the wiring diagrams for both setups and making the changes. A used OEM underdash and underhood Tach harness will be expensive unless the seller doesn't realize how rare it is. One the members here, MIdlife, specializes in repairing and rebuilding wiring harnesses for these cars. He can very likely rework your harness for an OEM tach setup. Oh yeah, make certain the tach and all the other gauges operate before getting too involved in the project. Even simple fuel gauge is expensive for that instrument panel. And many won't sell individual parts or gauges for that instrument panel.
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