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1969_Mach1

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About 1969_Mach1

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  • Birthday 02/21/1965

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  1. If you look at the original post, the back of the engine oil pan is soaked with oil as well. If that is trans fluid on the bell housing, there is likely more than one leak? Maybe it's me, I see motor oil on the paper towel.
  2. That looks like motor oil. Check closely the oil pan around the rear main cap area and the rear main seal. What type of oil are you using? Some tend to find small leaks more than others. On my 351W, when I use to run Valvoline Racing oil I always had a very small leak in the rear main seal or back of oil pan area. Not enough to be concerned with. But always a small drip off the bottom of the bell housing. When I switched to Lucus Hot Rod and Classic Car oil the leak stopped.
  3. There was a time all Timken bearings were U.S. made. For a long time now, I'm guessing at least 25 years, Timken has offered both U.S. and imported bearings. Most Timken bearings you find in parts stores are imported. Industrial supply stores will carry the U.S. made bearings. NAPA will sometimes have the U.S. made bearings. Bearings sold by companies like Moser, Currie, etc. are usually U.S. made. As you can guess, there is a big price difference between the two.
  4. I don't think that is from a 1969 Sportsroof. I didn't come across anything like that on my 69 Mach 1.
  5. Regardless of what the fix is, you should add a ground cable from the engine to the body of the car. This is just a little extra insurance that everything electrical on the car will have a good path to the negative battery terminal. I don't understand the description of when grounding the coil to the battery a spark is created? Are you getting the spark at the moment you remove the ground? That's when it should occur. You are certain there is 12V to the coil while cranking? If there are 12V to the coil while cranking and the coil is good, while cranking connect a test light between the negative side of the coil and ground, the light should blink while cranking. If the light stays off, the points and condenser are not breaking open the ground circuit. If the light stays on, the points and condenser are not closing the ground circuit. Either way, if the light doesn't blink, it is something with the points, condenser, or wire to the points from the coil. Does you Boss 302 still have the factory rev limiter installed? I don't know how those operated, but just asking.
  6. That is normal. Some might have a little less lateral movement than others, but, there are no bushings or bearings on the bottom of the distributor to locate the shaft. Only on upper end. The lower portion of the shaft is located by the hole in the block.
  7. I'm glad I'm not the only one that's noticed the drivers side location of the collector. When I had factory power steering I couldn't see a path for the exhaust with the power steering ram and stock clutch linkage. I spoke to JBA about it, they responded like they have never seen or heard of such a condition like that. I'm curious if the JBA mid-pipe with fit around both the power steering ram and the stock clutch linkage. Let us know how it fits.
  8. Yes, you can check the resistance in the magnetic pickup using an ohm meter. If MSD doesn't list values for the correct range you can search for that information for a Ford magnetic pickup used in Duraspark ignitions during the 1970's. I think the MSD magnetic pickup is a Ford style. At least that's what it looks like.
  9. I have the same motor and JBA 1653S headers. There is about 1/4" clearance between the header tube and the larger Borgeson power steering box. With the stock steering box there was a lot of clearance, at least 1/2". Maybe it's just the picture, but, something looks out of sort with the steering box and column relationship. They don't seem to be aligned very well. I'd look a little closer at the issue before installing adjustable motor mounts and putting a band aid on top of a band aid. Something could be slightly off with the header causing your issue. It wouldn't take much error at the cylinder head flange area of the header to cause your clearance issue. Does you car have factory power steering? If so, you'll notice the drivers side header collector directly above and pointing down at the power steering ram.
  10. I think Mach1 Driver is right. Your options will probably come down to try another pick up coil, if that doesn't fix it, then another ignition box. If when there is no spark and you immediately do the paperclip test and that triggers the MSD box, I'd suspect the magnetic pick up again. I've been using the MSD 6ALN with good luck. It's basically a more robust version of the 6AL. Performance is the same as a 6A or 6AL, just built more robust for dirt circle track racing. They're more expensive so wait for a sale if you can. I recently purchased another one for another project. At least the 6ALN doesn't have a label anywhere that indicates made in China.
  11. I've heard of synthetic elastomer bushings. I believe that is what's installed in the Scott Drake spring perches that have free rotation. They seem to work fine for me. If you find strut rod bushings made from that material, it might be a nice compromise.
  12. I hate to throw this out now, but hard shifts on older type transmissions, Ford, GM, or Mopar, are many times simply caused by the kick down linkage (TV cable in GM's case) being out of adjustment.
  13. I can say back in 1980 I watched my oldest brother install a 351W in a 1969 Mach 1 with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. It was an FMX trans as well. I guess he was careful enough aligning everything and just rotated the crank at the balancer a little to engage the splines. To answer your question, I don't think that's what happened, but, I since the motor and trans can lean downward when removing the trans, it can be removed with the torque converter attached to the flex plate. Maybe the shop should try a torque converter from another manufacturer? Most of us work on our own classic cars. These day's I think reputable repair shops that can work on older cars are far and few between.
  14. This is a tough one. Starting to seem likes it's the torque converter. But they've tried two with the same results. Were they both from the same rebuilder? Has anybody tried a new harmonic balancer? I know it doesn't seem like that's the source.
  15. With the original Bendix booster on my 69 Mach 1 the master cylinder can be removed without having to remove the brake booster. I guess I got lucky. From what I understand, the clutch rod from the Z-bar to the pedal might interfere with a 9" diameter booster. I don't know how true that is. If that rod clears a 9" diameter booster, that would solve some issues with stock clutch linkage and a Borgeson power steering box.
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