Stangboy

I just fit the hydraulic clutch setup they sell, and added the roller bearing conversion to my manual pedal setup also. I'm in the process of putting in a T-56, and the car is a shell, so test fitting everything is pretty easy. I had to modify the bellcrank setup that bolts to the firewall in order to get it to sit straight up & down.

Bought a Miller 211 MIG a few months ago and live it. Also have a Lincoln 175 TIG for aluminum & stainless stuff.

I wonder if one could get a badge 3D printed out of metal?

I'm in the process of rebuilding my car, and am adding Borgeson power steering. What do I need to do in order to ditch the rag joint and add a steering ujoint instead? I know I can get a ujoint that bolts to the box itself, but what do I need to do to my column? It looks like the shaft coming out has the rag joint mount welded. Cut it off, replace the lower shaft with something else? I have searched but can't find a specific answer. Thanks.

Actually the plate I ordered is for the 67-70 cars. It has a curve in it that is supposed to match the firewall. The earlier cars are straight across. Unfortunately the curve is wrong. It doesn't quite match no matter how I turn it. I could probably get it to match with some heat and a BFH, but the Global West piece fits perfectly.

Well, I decided that since the plate comes nowhere near lining up up, and the curve isn't really right top or bottom, I'm going to reuse the plate that came with my old Global West setup. It fits underneath, and fits perfectly.

So I guess I can patch it.

Are you sure? Every picture I've seen of them they are on the top side.

A few questions. I am in the process of straightening and reinforcing the front end of my car. Looking to run a one piece export race and weld the reinforcement plate to the cowl area. First, what is the circular hole in the center of the cowl for? It had a rubber plug in it, but it crumbled when I removed it. Will it matter if the top of this hole is open after the plate is welded in? It seems the holes in the plate don't line up with the holes in the cowl. Do I ream out the holes in the plate? Or the cowl? Or do I really need it? Thanks.

Forgot to add it wasn't lowered though. So you may have to run a shorter tire.

I fit a 15x10 Weld Wheel in the back of mine with 28X10.5 slicks. The wheel had a 6.5" backspace. I had rolled fender lips and trimmed the bumpstop flange that sticks out.

Notice I said "old school" racers definition. Modern synthetic oils allow for much tighter bearing clearances. As far as mixing and matching bearing, just about every major bearing manafacturer offers bearings made for this purpose, so it seems to be far from an uncommon practice. Even some of their literature refers to "mixing" bearing shells to fine tune the clearances needed.

"Blueprinting", at least in the old school racer's book, was everything from square decking the block, line honing, chasing all the bolt holes and chamfering the top of the holes to prevent stress cracks from forming, deburring the interior and exterior of the block again to prevent stress cracks, polishing the lifter valley to aid in oil drain back, honing the cylinders with a torque plate to ensure the cylinder bore was round when the head was torqued down, honing the connecting rods to ensure all the piston had the same deck height when installed, hand filing the rings to get the correct gap, mixing and matching bearing halves to get the correct clearances, in addition to setting up the rod & crank clearances to maximum to reduce friction. This required a hi volume oil pump, and the oil passages would be radiused, as well as opening up the oil pump and deburring the interior of it, and I'm sure I missed a lot of other things. Check out some of the NHRA Stick Eliminatir classes to see what a totally blueprinted engine is capable of.

I would strip it down to the bare shell and have it blasted. Then you'll know exactly what you're working with. That looks like a "ground up" candidate for restoration. everything starts with a solid chassis.

What exactly does that mean? 195/50/14's, or 275/50/15's? Big difference as far as clearing tailpipes.