moodster

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moodster last won the day on October 14 2015

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About moodster

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    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 01/08/1975
  1. Personally I like to jack up the car and take one of the wheels with me. It is smaller than the gas tank and rolls easily. david
  2. I like other car manufacturers but by no means am I an expert on them. That's the problem with this thread. The car looks good to me, you should buy it. Sorry, if it were a 69/70 Mustang then I'd have more insightful feedback. david
  3. My firewall looked exactly the same. I believe Ridge Runner is correct - if you have the mushroomed punch outs then you don't use the grommets. Once you slide the heater hose through the firewall, you'll see that the tolerance is pretty good. Oh and the heater core does not protrude through the firewall - or at least it didn't on mine... maybe AC cars it does? david
  4. If your engine has a smooth idle, then you probably don't have a lot of valve overlap. How many times have you averaged 6 mpg on a tank?
  5. Could it be that you have so much valve overlap that the fuel is getting burnt in the exhaust? david
  6. I think the ball is a different size on the 1969 mirror. I know modern mirrors will not work in a 69 mirror mount... I've tried. I don't know anything about the 70 mirror/mounts. david
  7. I'm close by in Kernersville, NC. If you want I can easily check your camber... I bought a gauge when I did mine. PM me if you're interested. David
  8. The washers go on the inside of the trunk to prevent water from leaking in. The holes are much larger than the stud to allow the extensions to be lined up. That is why you need the soft rubbery stuff... to seal the holes. david
  9. You can buy some of the nice flaring tools and flare any type and size of metal line. I think mine cost $200 or so. That was a hard sell for me - at first - then after stripping a bunch of paint off my car with brake fluid and nearly catching my car on fire with gasoline, I decided it was totally worth it. If you're stuck with the standard flaring tools then you should definitely avoid stainless steel lines of any sort. In larger sizes of the regular steel you'll find that some of your flares will probably leak so you'll just have to try again. If you use copper or one of the copper-nickel alloys then standard flaring tools will work great. david
  10. Mike, the resistance values are off consistently with the aftermarket sending units. You can fix the issue by putting a resistor inline but not many people want or know how to do that. The original senders do go bad from time to time. david
  11. I've been using the Evans coolant for about two years now... I haven't had any overheating problems however their claim of not needing an overflow bottle is false. If you fill the radiator to the top, it will push it out. I'm using a 20" aluminum radiator, original 69 shroud, original thermostat (192 degrees?) and a Ford flex fan from a 78 Mustang II. I rebuilt my engine so there has never been any water or regular coolant in the block. One thing I'll note is that my block had lots of corrosion inside the passages when I pulled the freeze plugs. It took some time but I cleaned all that out really good before I had the machine work done. david
  12. Given the engine specs - Probe forged pistons, head studs, etc - I'm betting this engine has had 500 hard use miles. For example, something like a drag strip. Just the machine work to rebuild a 302 will cost you $950. The forged pistons are really only needed if you're running a turbo or supercharger which the seller might have been doing. david
  13. That's some good information... you certainly know more about lights then I do. Their response didn't really address the beam pattern. I'll see if I can't take a picture after I get my high beams in and start to adjust them. One thing I failed to mention is that you can see the heat sink on the high beams if you open the hood and look down.... that might be a drawback for some looking for an invisible install.
  14. You're certainly welcome, they work for me so I just thought I'd let others know. If anybody is interested in more technical details then I would encourage them to contact the manufacturer.
  15. Correct, no new wiring, relays, fuses, etc. However I never had any trouble with my old halogens, aside from them being dim. I've read about others having the lights cut out, etc. I drove home last night in the dark and was delighted with the new leds. For me, the lights are focused well and I can see the road so much better. I didn't have anybody in opposing lanes honk at me like the lights were in their eyes so I assume they aren't scattering into their field of view. I did adjust the aim per the instructions that came with the lights before using them at night. My factory settings were close but I made just a few tweaks to get them exact per my measurements. david