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  1. Hey all.. Its a Ford Racing 5 spd... Dont know if there is pressure build up and a clogged vent..although stanger things can happen.. ordered the 95 cent O-rings and will check it our during the week. tahnks all
  2. Its reddish. I found a few threads about this, and it is most probably fluid from the T-5 going up the speedo cable. Apparently, the O ring or seal oat the transmission can leak and oil can be forced up the speed cable, dripping out. Should be a simple fix. Thanks christian
  3. OK everyone, this is a weird one. I am getting an oil drip inside the car. There are only two things I can think of and wonder whether anyone has had a similar leak.. Is it possible that the oil can leak from the speedometer cable... that is that gear oil from the transmission could travel up an be forced out? Has anyone had oil come through the brake booster from a leak there and had it drip into the cockpit? Kinda weird, I know.. just wondering before I tear my dash up thanks all christian
  4. thanks ray I went with the radiator for now. have a flex fan, which will be fine... for now.
  5. Hey guys- After a bunch of delays I have been back at it, and finishing up my car when I sprung a radiator leak. So i ordered a champion 20 inch radiator and a new repro shroud. That didnt go so well. the radiator wasnt flat, and the mounting points for the shroud make it rub terribly. So next up is trying to just use a replacement 24 inch radiator from npd https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_radiator_t1_50_b1_75-106096-2823.html and this fan setup https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/mustang_fan_kit_electric_dual_fans_thermostatically-106631-387.html i have a similar smaller fan for my 66 so i know the fan will setup quickly. Has anyone used or ordered the 24 inch fan from npd, or has anyone purchased a good 20 or 24 inch fan that is a direct replacement. I have a 351C with driver side outlet. thanks christian
  6. hey guys Thanks for the info. Looks like nothing in the wiring was hacked, just had the ignition light stuck in the seatbelt warning bung on the instrument panel. So thats a positive. As for the warning lights for the seatbelts, I will opt not to put them in. I can do without that light for now. The important part is that there are no loose dangling broken wires to short out (knoc on wood). As for the bumpers, I did not replace them, and they look pretty good. But I dont know if they are repops or not. SA60 thanks for the correction.. I can be referred to as dumb*** newbie! I will have more questions as I try to finish off this rebuild. cheers D A N!
  7. Hey SS- Since I cant find the switch I did a bit of digging. Can you or someone tell me whether the light above igniition switch turns on when you have the parking lights on. It has a black and yellow one lead wire. It could be the same size as the seatbelt warning light-- the electrical figure is highlighted here.
  8. Hey thanks SS.. It is a standard dash with the bulb plugged into the instrument panel. I will try and trace the wire back. It makes sense that it wouldnt be on the light switch... so I am wondering where it could be. I actually don't see the switch itself, which is also curious. should be a quiet afternoon under my dash... cheers
  9. Hi All- New to this forum. Rebuilding my 1969 convertible (original and new pics of car shown) and putting the dash together. I have been testing things to make sure I dont get the dash together and then find a problem.... I know very rare... for most of us. My problem is that the seat belt warning light stays on when I put the light switch in the parking light position. It doesnt go on when I put the lights on, or when the car starts. I have looked at some of the previous threads here, and am wondering whether this particular gremlin would occur if the bimetallic switch (which i cant seem to find) was not grounded properly. All the other lights seem to work properly, but clearly, they are working despite my prowess! Any thoughts about how to troubleshoot this would be helpful. Thanks
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