mandyse1

Hello All,
Well the season is about over for us and up to now we have not
won a trophy of any kind.
I know that trophies are not really that important but it would have been
nice to win one once this season
 
I think our car looks pretty damn good on the outside and interior.
 
I have been talking to a few people at shows and they are suggesting I
do some work under the hood as far as looks
 
currently the car has Chrome Moroso valve covers
Braided hoses and a blue specter flow air cleaner
 
I pretty much like the looks - but now people seem to think
I should go bak to complete stock looks
 
I understand that the car is ours and beauty is in the eye of the beholder
I was just wondering what you people think would help our car
look better
 
One friend suggested putting on 17's and low profile tires but I sure like
the 70's look of the keystones
 
Gotta admit it is a little discouraging to not win one trophy all season
I honestly think the car looks pretty cool
I should and will post a picture of the motor - but for now what
do you guys think would help.
Should I go back to stock look including hoses, clamps
and all that goes with it
 
Thanks all
 
Print Dad (SAm)

I'm seriously looking at doing the headliner for the coupe. I found a very nice and depenable guy that has been making molds for me. So, what I really need to know is how much demand is there for it  ? I have at least 40 other new products I could spend my money on.

Would like to share this video with you guys. In my opinion this is one of the best mustang models of all models. 
[media] [/media]
That is why i love 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 so much!

I noticed a small amount of play in the steering wheel after installing the Borgeson power steering box.  Turns out its the two halves of the collapsible steering column shaft no longer fitting together snuggly.  I removed the steering column and shaft.  Pulled the two halves of the shaft apart and this is what I found.
 
1)  In the lower picture the two halves of the steering column shaft are in the original position.  The two white Teflon rings on the inner shaft are positioned so that two halves will fit together snug.  And there is no play and rocking in the steering wheel.
 
2)  In the upper picture the two halves of the steering column shaft are in the new collapsed position to fit the Borgeson power steering box.  Now the two white Teflon rings on the inner shaft will serve no purpose.  Two halves of the shaft fit together loosely.  And there is play in the steering wheel and it will rock a little and make a metallic clank.
 
Any ideas how to best solve this and still have a collapsible shaft when finished?  There is about 0.005" clearance between the inner and outer shafts.  I am thinking of dimpling the outer half in several spots with a punch.  I remember a blue thick Teflon that we painted on the splines of two piece driveshafts to reduce play at that connection.  But I don't recall exactly what it was and where to get it.
 
Thanks

Hey all, I've had these parts for 10-15 years and I'm probably never going to use them, so I would rather them go to a good home and be put to use then sit in my basement. I have a TON of pictures; I'm going to post a few but if you want more just ask. No reasonable offer refused, honestly I could be way high or way low on prices. I'm taking an educated guess. Local pickup around Pattenburg NJ or I can ship, but you must cover shipping costs.
 
Window regulators I believe were from my 69 coupe parts car, the flex fan and steering box I believe were out of a 69 Boss 302. Don't quote me though it's been a while, hopefully you guys can tell just by looking or seeing the part numbers. Everything else I've somehow accumulated over the years and have no idea where they are from short of looking some numbers up. Any questions just ask and I would be happy to look for date codes, or check whatever you need.
 
NOTE: Apparently I'm limited to the amount of images I can post, so just click the links and it should bring you to the picture if it didn't load.
 
$125 for the pair - 69 Coupe rear interior quarter trim panels (pics a few posts down)
 
$40 302/351 balancer P/N 112216
 

 
 
$75 Steering box, feels tight (I think it's the quick ratio for PS but I'm not sure what to test for to know for sure; I'd be happy to check for someone that needs a box, it could be for manual for all I can remember, just have to know what to look for):
 



 
 
$20 Brand New B&M Shift cable P/N 80604:
 

 
$5 B&M shifter cover I believe, not 100% sure:
 

 
 
Make offer (still trying to figure out what this is, may have been off the Boss 302 also but something tells me it wasn't at the moment) Air Cleaner assembly:
 

 
 
$20 4 Blade fan P/N C6AE-E
 

 
 
$30 6 Blade Fan P/N C9ZE-C:
 

 
 
$100 5 Blade Flex Fan from I believe a 69 Boss 302 P/N C8SE-B
 

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161911a_zps9vllbgfq.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161912_zpsukcdmsbp.jpg
 
 
$100 Shifter from I believe a 69:
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161921a_zpsgzvyz89b.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161921b_zpsumu9dcbn.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161921c_zpsb518c8ea.jpg
 
 
$40 Passenger side door hinges from 69 coupe:
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161928d_zpsgj1oride.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161929_zpscqofzmj6.jpg
 
 
$5 69 Battery Tray:
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161928c_zpsprud5390.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161928b_zpsis3mfb7s.jpg
 
 
$25 Pair of 69 hood hinges:
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161928a_zpslny0hdkc.jpg
 
 
Make offers: 69 Window regulators and door glass:
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161936_zpsxykpmqvw.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161938_zpshzgsomav.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161943_zpsuwbeg8od.jpg
 
 
Make offer Assorted Parts, I have 2 ash trays, one is missing the tray, both pictured:
 
 
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161921e_zpsm86wvikg.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161915_zpstpbdzcp1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161915a_zpsmckcfprp.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161918_zpsgpjjnkjy.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161918c_zpspq2nut8c.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161918d_zps1jayudmv.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161918b_zpsedfdkxrr.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d135/nanotoxin55/0622161918a_zpshkuvrr5q.jpg

Driving down the freeway yesterday doing about 75 and all of a sudden no throttle response.  Gave the pedal a little pump, no response, might have been a pop from the carb, checked the gauges, oil, temp, and voltage are all good.  By this time the motor is turned off, I am in neutral , coasting and looking for a place to pull over.  Get off the freeway, park, try a restart and another back fire, continues to crank and no sign of starting.  Called AAA, got the rig home, in the carport, shaker off and the hood open.  From the drivers seat I can see the carb. and give the pedal a pump, turn the key and backfire through the carb.  So while still not sure what's up I take the dist. cap off, hand turn the crank to TDC (actually 10 degrees BTC) and note the rotor location.  Rotor is pointed at #7 cyl.( 5 o'clock).  Rotate another 360 degrees and it comes up #4 cyl. ( 11 o'clock).  The correct rotor position should be at #1 cyl. and 1 o'clock.  Timing is off and the dist. hold down is tight so it isn't jiggleing around.. Took one valve cover off and again hand turned the crank to check the valve train/cam.  Checked out OK every position is going up and down.   Pretty much a stock FE configuration without unusual  mods and the most recent work was a new starter motor..  Before going any further I like to hear some thoughts on what I have uncovered so far ?  Thanks, Brian

can anyone tell me the paint codes for undercarriages and engine compartments.   And all black the fire will is not body color is that right ???   if you have a PPG number or code that would be great
 
Thanks much
Trace
 

hi,  i can't find it in the repair manuals,   the power steering cyl that mounts to the frame,  the bracket on the frame has a 3/4 or 7/8 hole that the cyl rod goes thru,  does any one have a picture of what or how is used to hold it in place?,    i made a nylon type washer to fit in the hole and 2 nylon washers outside the shole to hold it in place,  but  i don't think its right,   does any one know?,  thanks    jerry

Just an fyi for the Forum members.   This weekend (July 29 & July 30), groundbreaking will occur for the new National Mustang Museum, which will be built in Concord, North Carolina (near Charlotte Motor Speedway).    If you live in the area, for a modest donation, you can actually bring your vintage Mustang to the ground breaking ceremony on Friday, where there will be cars on display and a Mustang car show, with dash plaques and trophies awarded.   If you want to fully immerse yourself in Mustang stuff, there is a weekend long schedule of events. 
 
My 1970 'Vert is still at Mike's for surgery, so I will be there in my '68 Coupe.   Here is the link:
 
http://www.thenationalmustangmuseum.com/
 
 
 

New in the box, Pertronix Ignitor and Flamethrower coil, for V8's. $75 obo shipped in the continental U.S.
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Came across all my old measurements from my stock converter to my new converter for my 4R70W after I wiped out a thrust bearing on my 408 and figured I would share them since the stock converter was deemed the problem.
The thrust failure was NOT a result of converter ballooning, but rather converter hub length and crank pilot hub depth "or lack there of"
Anyhow here are the measurements for comparison.

Abbreviations will be as follows

OC = Old Converter
NC = New Converter

1. Difference in over all height of converters measured from the tip of pilot hub to the end of the input on converter was .085 with the new converter being the shortest.

2. Overall depth of converters measured from inside of converter to outside lip of input shaft area... basically stuck a Dial caliper in the converter and extended it to the bottom inside of both converters and measured to the end of the input shaft area on each converter.
OC = 7.435
NC = 7.107
Delta = .328

3. Depth from the mounting pads to the edge of bell housing after converter was fully seated.
OC = .935
NC = 1.094
Delta = .159

4. Distance from mounting pads on converter to the tip of the converter pilot snout.
OC = .897
NC = .884
Delta = .013

5. Distance from Tip of Pilot Hub to edge of bell housing after seating both converters.
OC = .055
NC = .249
Delta = .194

6. Pilot hole depth for Old Crank that burnt the thrust was .600
Pilot hole depth on new crank is .590 so its a bit shallower and so far as I can tell all is going okay.

Anyhow not sure if these measurements will help anyone but there they are for future ref.

Basically if your going to run a stock converter behind a 302/351 Combo be sure that your converter seat depth from the mounting pads to the edge of the bell housing is at least 1", if not then you need to be sure you have the converter seated correctly and if so then your converter is probably not going to work without giving you problems...
Also if you have a rebuilt motor check the Pilot hub depth, and remember when you install the transmission that the converter should slide forward and backwards with ease and you should have about 3/8" of movement back and fourth... If you bolt it in and cant slide the converter your in for trouble.

Hi all,
I need some help trying to figure out what plug # 11 is for that goes into the instrument panel printed circuit.
I have lights, marker lights, turn signals & dash lights but no interior lights.
All the books I have show nothing to do with plug # 11, it has 2 wires coming out of it, a purple and a black.
When the ignition is on the purple wire gets very hot and if you ground out the black wire you can see only faint sparks.
I'm hoping someone has ran across this problem that can help.
I have the 69 & 70 colorized wiring diagrams and nothing shows these two wires anywhere.
Thanks

I finally threw in the towel. I've been battling this scenario for the past year and now it's making me frustrated.
From a stand still it's a dog, but once above 2000 it fly's.
At this point, I've tried tuning so many ways that now I think I've over done it.
 
Things I've done:
Changed Quick Fuel SS 735 Carb. Vac Squirter to 35, Changed air bleeds from 70 to 74, Changed main jet from 68 to 70.
Changed from Mallory Unilte Dist to MSD 8577 added a MSD 6 box (this changed made a noticeable difference on top end)
Changed gears from 3:55 to 4:11.
 
Played up & down with timing, now it's set at Initial 16, advance 21
Below is the MSD advance chart, I'm set now with (D) Blue bushing & 2 lite blue springs.
 
Tried Quickfuel tech line but I think the guys don't understand the nature of the Cleveland heads.
Above carb adjustments is their recommendation.
 
I have been told Pos & Neg of having a 2600 stall. One person said, since I have an AOD to  be careful with the advance curve. You don't want it coming in super fast as it will be easy to lug the engine down.
 
Tried countless times to adjust the 4 corner idle screws, always wound up at 3/4 turned out, highest vac is 12.
 
Taken intake off 2x's in the past and made sure it is sealed correctly.
 
I think I'm missing something or doing something wrong with the carb adjustments. I did check the transfer slot on the secondaries (Might need to check it again).
Factory carb secondary adjustment is 1/2 out, I tried a closing a 1/4 to see if they were opening too soon. I couldn't tell so I set it back to 1/2.
 
Here's what I have-
351 4v Iron Closed Chamber 63cc heads, SS valves
Scorpion Pedestal roller rockers
Bullet Custom grind 541/559, 270/283, 50@ 220/231, lsa 110
Springs #145@1.800 & #350@1.200
RobbMc Mech Fuel Pump.
Blue Thunder Intake
Carb- Quick Fuel 735 Vac Sec
Sandersons Shorty headers
FlowMaster 40 out to tail pipe
4 speed AOD, 12" 2600 stall non locking
MSD 8577, MSD 6 box
ProMaster E-Coil 41000 volts
4:11 trac-lok 9" rear
 
 
MSD Advance Curve.pdf

Great progress!

Dang, how'd I miss the entire month of posts? Excellent work Mike!

When aligning my doors... do I install the latches and strikers, then close door, then support door, then tighten front hinges?
 
or support door without the strikers?
 

looking for a mach 1 clock for parts or complete. mostly just need the set gear and spring   thanks 

Guys,
I have a 1970 coupe
I am looking to get some input on these following parts suppliers.
 
www.cal-mustang.com
www.macsautoparts.com
www.mustangsunlimited.com
www.cjponyparts.com
www.scottdrake.com
www.aapd.net
www.npdlink.com
 
What I am looking for is which supplier has better deals and are good to work with or completely stay away from.
The other thing is how is availability with the supplier? and do they take care of back orders in a timely manner.
 
If you have better experience with a supplier not listed please let me know.
 
 
Thanks in advance
 
Henk
 
 
 
 
 

Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
 

Hello everyone, Happy Independence Day!
 
so today I decided to take the car out for drive, was getting on the freeway and started stepping on the gas, then all of sudden lost power and car died.  I tried turning it over but the car stumbles & dies even herd a pop now and when I accelerate I feel it mis firing, no power and tries to die, barely made it home. 
 
recently my alternator (1g conversion) died and fried my battery replaced that and I was back to normal 
 
 
any ideas where to start? I was thinking to look at ignition (Spark plugs and wires)

I recently replaced the shoes, drums and all the spring hardware for another Sunday driver that I have. Took the car out and it made an awful dragging noise when I turned left and right. Took the wheel off and spun the drum with the lugs on it and it looked way out of round. Would even make a dragging noise at a certain spot on the drum.
 
Took the drums back and got another set. These looked fine when I spun the drum and no noises. Turned the steering left and right while on jack stands and no noises.
 
Bolted wheel on and took it for a drive. It didn't make any noise the first few turns but shortly afterwards was back to making a dragging noise when I turn left or right.
 
Thoughts and where I should look? The brake adjuster is backed all the way out. Drum turns freely.

Good thing my wife isn't a member on this blog.  But I think today had to be just about the perfect afternoon.  Shortly afternoon I hopped in the stang and just drove in the country and trough a couple small towns for about an hour and a half.  Then I pulled into the driveway and gave her a nice bath head to toe.  Did get into detailing, but there was nothing pressing to fix.  Nothing unexpected or unwanted happened during the drive and the car performed decently.  Not that I wouldn't have wanted the wife along but sometimes is nice to be alone on the drive.  I didn't even bother turning the radio on, just listened to the sound of the exhaust.
 
Anyone else get out and enjoy the afternoon?

I know this has been discussed before, but as products keep evolving and I'm a novice I hope someone might have some recommendation.
 
I need a new cam for my stang.
 
Here are first my specs:
 
302 engine
Edelbrock Performer RPM Top end kit (Heads, manifold, chain...)
Edelbrock E-Street EFI
Stock Torque converter
3.55 rear gear
I don't know my compression, but my mechanic thinks it's 8.5:1
 
 
I had the Edelbrock Performer RMP Cam that came with the Top End kit, but it broke and I would like something else/better as I understand it's a pretty bad cam.
 
I would obviously like as much power as possible, but I'm mostly interested in a calm idle and low end rpm power, cause I use the car as an everyday car also in city traffic, and mainly have fun accelerating below 3000 rpm. So one that has a range starting at 1500rpm may be cool. Or would I loose too many overall horses?
 
A quick googling suggests that a Com Cam XE262H might be a good fit? Or what about the Voodoo cams. I read they should be good too? Or something else? So a nice idle with as much low rpm power is what I'd like :-)

Thanks,
Kaspar

I did a search and didn't really see any direct posts about doing a 3G alt conversion.  I think I want to go with an electric cooling fan so I figured this project would be needed first.  I've ordered a PA Performance kit that replaces the external regulator and keeps your Ampmeter from burning out.  Tomorrow I'm going to the year to hunt for rabbits... I mean a 130amp Taurus or Windstar alternator (and a Contour dual fan).
 
My question for all you knowledgeable and experience folks.  Is on the charging wire.  I see a large variety of options out there.  I was thinking of getting the Summit Racing 6 gauge line for $24.  However it doesn't have a fuse.  Is a fuse between the alternator and battery really necessary?  If I get a 130amp Alt won't I need like a 150amp fuse?
 
Any other advice on this mod would also be appreciated.  I read on another forum some people have to grind the case a little due to pulley clearance issues, anyone run into this?
 
Thanks as always for the help/advice.

Early 1967  Cobra Jet block and crank shaft. Crank shaft main journals are standard. Crank shaft rod journals are standard. Date code on the block is 7M20, December 20, 1967.  Need more pic's email me   el70gato@yahoo.com .   $3,000.00 No texting. Call Grant 248-363-3954