Door alignment question

[69mach1build 22]

When aligning my doors... do I install the latches and strikers, then close door, then support door, then tighten front hinges?

 

or support door without the strikers?

 

[Rcodenewf 44]

I removed the latches and strikers on mine...fit the door for best fit and then put the strikers on to get the in/out fitment.

 

If you're just putting the car back together and if the door shell is empty i would calculate the weight of the regulator, glass etc and place that weight of some sort inside the door to simulate the component weight in the door.

 

If not you'll align the door and the body lines will be off once you install that stuff.

 

I supported the bottom of my door with my floor jack and a block of wood wrapped in rags and foam.

 

...John

[Midlife 814]

I'd offer differing advice.  I'd start with mounting the door with the striker installed and see how the character lines fit at the rear of the door.  You can adjust the door hinges to get the best fit that you can.  I put paint sticks on the door sill with painter's tape and see if the door bottom just clears the stick.  A single paint stick is the gap you want for the door to everything else.  See if you can all that with the striker installed.  Final test: open and shut door and see if the door strikes exactly aligned with the striker.  If so, you're good to go until you fit the fender.  If no good fit, remove the striker post and let it float and start over.  Once the door has a good fit, go inside from the other side and see if you can tighten the striker post from the back side.  If not, mark the position with the door closed, and then open the door.  Re-position the striker post to where you marked it and tighten it up.  Then test the door open/close.

[Rsmach1 71]

+1 with Midlife, exactly how I did mine. Paint sticks are you're best friend

[1969_Mach1 333]

For some reason I can't seem to understand that process.  I alway alighed with the strikers removed.  After installing the strikers it's easy to see if they try to lift or lower the back of the door when closing it.

 

+1 on compensaiting for the weight of the glass, regulator, and all other hardware.  Or have all of it installed before adjusting the door.

[Raven R code 281]

 

+1 on compensaiting for the weight of the glass, regulator, and all other hardware.  Or have all of it installed before adjusting the door.

Is there that much flex in a good steel door that it could (or will) sag? Should I be concerned if 25lbs of door guts will make my doors sag?

[RobotMan 264]

The sag is in the hinges not the door.

[det0326 179]

Repo doors will sag, because if they haven't changed in the last few years, the skin is not welded to the door frame and that allows it to flex some. 

Not the case with OEM doors tho. 

 

Dave