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Print Dad

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Print Dad last won the day on September 23

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About Print Dad

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1951

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  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • Biography
    Married 36 Great years and still going
  • Location
    Just Outside Boston, Mass
  • Interests
    Cars -
  • Occupation
    Printing Teacher

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  1. Hello Mach 1 Driver, thanks for the thoughts and advice,… I will replace the gaskets but I don’t ever see or feel gas on the outside of the carb. I may also try putting fuel in the vent tube. just so you know when I crank the motor I only crank for about 5-6 seconds, the wait a few seconds then repeat. I never continue to crank long thanks for the help… best of luck with your dream car sam
  2. Hello all, once agAin I turn to this forum for thoughts and advice. I have been busy with several projects but a minor but important issue has me stumped. the car 70 Mach 1 351 c the carb about 8 years old Holley 650 vac secondaries when the car sits for about a week it takes a lot of cranking to start unless I give it a 2 sec shot of starter fluid i have checked the choke and it is working great and fully adjusted i have a clear “fram” filter before the carb,,,, it stays 3/4 full i checked and there is NO leaks at accelerator pump, metering;g block or anywhere outside the carb. this leads me to think possibly a bad power valve ??? not sure if they leak into the manifold. when the car starts… she runs about as perfect as could be expected. no-skips , buck, backfire ets. My wife thinks I’m nuts…but I would like to let car sit and start right up after 3-4 weeks if I start after 2 days I pump the gas once to set check turn key and it fires i know I have to remove sight bowl screw to verify that the bowl is empty I appreciate thoughts and opinions sam
  3. RPM, a great picture .. thanks a real great pix and if I do have a shop do the job.. I’ll give it to them. hard to explain why I may not attempt the job. plastic time I did it it took about 3 hours and thirty tries. onthe final attempt it went together sooooosimple just had to get the correct angle. this has me depressed a bit.. I have wrenched on cars for 60 years and not much I wouldn’t tackle. I guess just an issue with my age…. thanks. Sam
  4. Hello Rustback, thanks for the info and thoughts. when I replacecthe master it was simple except for installing brake light switch. i worked a just that for several hours… too tight up there. when I finally got the switch in it took about a minute. that is why I was thinking of leaving the rod on the pedal. You are right manual drum brakes all arounr not sure what I will do… thanks again….. sam
  5. Follow up questions 1. can pull the rod from master cylinder and leave it attached to br!e pedal 2. I know the rod is suppose to attach inside the master cylinder. But why? Does the brake pedal help pull the “puck” backward 3. Should I just add fluid and keep a eye on things…. 4. Why do some master cylinders come with no rod? idoubt I can work under the dash.. don’t know why I appreciate ideas tips etc. sam
  6. Hello all, I feel really stupid because I already did this once about 10 years ago. so more specs… car is 70 Mach. 351c with 3 speedstck. drum brakes all around. I can pull the master cylinder and bench bleed a new on… the part I forget is the rod that hooks to the pedal. I forget how it attaches… I hope it’s not behind the brake light switch. last time I replaced the switch it took me hours. Then suddenly it went in. So I guess I need to know if anyone would leave the rod on the pedal and just replace the master? I noticed a tiny leak up by the clutch pedal today…inside car…only took about 1/16 of an inch of fluid in back bowl. frontwas perfect. looking for ideas and thoughts…keep in. Mind im71 and not as nibble as I once was. Should I just watch this or replace master?e thanks in advance. Sam
  7. New din tool arrived today. Mush heavier. inserted tool. Nothing… I have given up. Lol may just have aftermarket instslled thanks.. sam
  8. Print Dad


    Hello, sorry to hear of your issues but I have a fewthoughts 1. the stripped screw will cause a leak…don’t use it 2. you can just replace the front room back bowl… depends on which is messed up 3 you can get a accelerator pump at most auto supply stores like advance auto etc just so you know.. it is pretty simple to replace the bowl… I bet Holley will have instructions. On their web site good luck. Sam
  9. Hello all, I’m hoping some of the people here can offer ideas my wife’s radio won’t come out…it is factory radio with single CD player below so I put the din tool in the 4 holes ..push the tool in, don’t feel much… then I try to push outward on the tool and pull the radio. It won’t budge.has a little wiggle side to side but really stuck. For kicks I tried the cdplayer and that won’t come out. I don’t want tobreak the bezel and I think there is as few behind the cd unit..but that won’t come out. I have tried a lot…but something must be messed up with the springs. I talked to a radio shop today and they want & $500 to install a new radio i was hoping to pull the radio and get numbers off it and try to find one on eBay. the CD player works.. but the radio doesnt how do I get the dang radio out? trust me it is stuck.. I watched about 10 videos and it looks so simple. nope… not for old me… any ideas ? thanks sam
  10. James?  Is that you?

  11. Hello ALL, ONce again I turn to the PROS here on a somewhat simple but VERY important couple of questions regarding our fuel sender As a reminder - car is a 70 MAch - gauges all work - BUT The fuel gauge reads FULL when only about 3/4 FULL. I had changed the sender several years ago. SO here are my 4? questions - -I should know the answers but OLD age has me questioning everything 1. - Will the sender PULL out while the tank is in the car - I had changed the tank several years ago. Not sure if there is room between the tank and rear pumpkin - - I wish I could remember, I think I installed the sender when the tank was new and out 2. - Should I simply bend the arm - - for a rough adjust or OR 3. - Should I replace the sender and if so - - what brand seems BEST. I think the once I purchased was a quality unit from CANADA - I just can't remember 4. - Are the S DRAKE units reliable and accurate I know this should be simple but I always seek advice of MANY here Thanks - -Sam
  12. Hello 1969 Mach1 I may be wrong on the width of my fan - but a quick measure I thought was 18inches I agree the 3 shroud picture is what I bought a long time ago from CJ - -it is a Drake product but looks like crap. I was thinking maybe the big block motors with 24 inch radiator would fit an approx 18" fan. I hope the sun comes out tomorrow and I will try to get a better measurement As I mentioned the 3rd ppix is me with the shroud up against the radiatoy with just the top 2 screws - -but it stinks
  13. Hello ALL, This is another goofy thread - but I am stuck. So I think I am getting a new radiator - that is part one - I will keep the old as a backup SO my newest issue is regarding the shroud - - - I would like something that looks like a factory part. So here is my dilema - - - and some more info CURRENTLY - 70 Mach 1 - 351C -no air and standard trani The issue may be that I installed an 18 inch clutching fan - many years ago. So of you will know I have owned the car about 43 years. ISSUE 2 - TROUBLES I purchased a shroud - but it looks AWFUL at the top near the upper tank. In my other radiator post - several people sent pictures - - I will attach - what I think looks good and would like. The other picture is f the shroud that I purchased - the shroud is attached to the radiator which is out of the car. I had made a shroud and can use that but mywife wants to get rid of the non stock items. MY problem now is I don;t want to spend 75-100 for something that doesn't fit or look good. I know someone with a 24 inch radiator must have installed a 18 inch clutching fan. PLEASE _ I know everyone is busy but I sure would like to make some progress on this As a last note - -the car NEVER overheated this issue started after I started motor after winter sleep and noticed a leak at top of the core, FIGURES - -351C - outlet on driver side - - - 24 inch radiator - core is 16 by 24 inches and 2.5 thick at core - Fan is a 18 inch clutching Thanks - you can't imagine how tuff this has been I like the top of pix 1 and 2 - pix 3 is my shroud which looks awfull Sam
  14. Hello Barnett468, I just looked inside the radiator - is has 3 rows back after - Thanks - - Sam
  15. Hello - Thanks for helping this old fool. I actually have a few quesitons about this project. 1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long. I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00 on the one hand I like the old metal - but then again I don't know if they would just recore it. When I started the car this year there was a small leak below the upper tank. What's you opinion? 2. - The shroud I bought a long time ago seems stupid to me - -it doesn't look like the pictures you guys posted - - it doesn't look good when put next to the radiator - I looks like the top tank of the radiator should be bulged out in spots or somehting 3. - Now I am thinking of getting another shroud for 24 inch radiator but do you think large clutching fan would fit inside? I hate to blow another $80.00 and listen to the boss (wife) LOL I sure appreciate your time and efforts Sam - - be well be safe
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