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Print Dad

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Print Dad last won the day on July 25 2018

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About Print Dad

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 07/02/1951

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  • Biography
    Married 36 Great years and still going
  • Location
    Just Outside Boston, Mass
  • Interests
    Cars -
  • Occupation
    Printing Teacher

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  1. Hello 1969 Mach1 I may be wrong on the width of my fan - but a quick measure I thought was 18inches I agree the 3 shroud picture is what I bought a long time ago from CJ - -it is a Drake product but looks like crap. I was thinking maybe the big block motors with 24 inch radiator would fit an approx 18" fan. I hope the sun comes out tomorrow and I will try to get a better measurement As I mentioned the 3rd ppix is me with the shroud up against the radiatoy with just the top 2 screws - -but it stinks
  2. Hello ALL, This is another goofy thread - but I am stuck. So I think I am getting a new radiator - that is part one - I will keep the old as a backup SO my newest issue is regarding the shroud - - - I would like something that looks like a factory part. So here is my dilema - - - and some more info CURRENTLY - 70 Mach 1 - 351C -no air and standard trani The issue may be that I installed an 18 inch clutching fan - many years ago. So of you will know I have owned the car about 43 years. ISSUE 2 - TROUBLES I purchased a shroud - but it looks AWFUL at the top near the upper tank. In my other radiator post - several people sent pictures - - I will attach - what I think looks good and would like. The other picture is f the shroud that I purchased - the shroud is attached to the radiator which is out of the car. I had made a shroud and can use that but mywife wants to get rid of the non stock items. MY problem now is I don;t want to spend 75-100 for something that doesn't fit or look good. I know someone with a 24 inch radiator must have installed a 18 inch clutching fan. PLEASE _ I know everyone is busy but I sure would like to make some progress on this As a last note - -the car NEVER overheated this issue started after I started motor after winter sleep and noticed a leak at top of the core, FIGURES - -351C - outlet on driver side - - - 24 inch radiator - core is 16 by 24 inches and 2.5 thick at core - Fan is a 18 inch clutching Thanks - you can't imagine how tuff this has been I like the top of pix 1 and 2 - pix 3 is my shroud which looks awfull Sam
  3. Hello Barnett468, I just looked inside the radiator - is has 3 rows back after - Thanks - - Sam
  4. Hello - Thanks for helping this old fool. I actually have a few quesitons about this project. 1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long. I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00 on the one hand I like the old metal - but then again I don't know if they would just recore it. When I started the car this year there was a small leak below the upper tank. What's you opinion? 2. - The shroud I bought a long time ago seems stupid to me - -it doesn't look like the pictures you guys posted - - it doesn't look good when put next to the radiator - I looks like the top tank of the radiator should be bulged out in spots or somehting 3. - Now I am thinking of getting another shroud for 24 inch radiator but do you think large clutching fan would fit inside? I hate to blow another $80.00 and listen to the boss (wife) LOL I sure appreciate your time and efforts Sam - - be well be safe
  5. Hello ALL, Sorry for the delayed response - but things are hectic here - my wife is a wreck A looked at the shroud - it i weird. I bought is from CJ - their part number is DOZZ- 8146 - A THere is another issue I forgot to mention - I put on a clutching fan that is 18" When I look at the shroud it also looks like the fan opening is NOT in the center of the shroud - It looks like the opening is off to the passengers side about 2 inches I hope I can attach a few pixs - I took them on my Iphone and they aren't on my computer yet Now I see my pictures from the phone are not showing up - even though they are on the phone don't know why another issue.. Yes Jay = see how the top of your shroud goes straight across - mine is NOTHING like that The thing I hav e is NOT good - I gotta figure how to get my pixs - -I need a youngin LOL BEar with me Sam Now not sure how to show pix from my computer I got it - - see when I put the top of the shroud against the radiator and hold in place with 2 screws it some up to the neck of the tank and see the spaces - -it is not straight across.I sure hope you guys can understand. The first pix show the part number from CJ - -when I went to their sight and search for that number it doesn't appear I am gettin in deep here - NOthing ever simple PLease bear with me - Sam
  6. Hello ALL, Once again I turn to the PROs for some help. This may not seem like a tuff question - but it is kinda important to me. So here goes - I am ding some changes on the GG Mach - 351C I am taking the radiator out to replace and removing some of the chrome from the motor. Please bear with me. The motor currently has a stainless shroud I had made - and braided hoses. I am going back to stock looking hoses and want to change the shroud -to a stock look. I have a 24 inch shroud that I bought years ago from MU - the weird thing is when I hold it up to the existing radiator - the "plastic" shroud come about half way up the top tank - - I was thinking it should only go as high as the 'fin" part of the radiator - in other words below the top tank. I think it looks weird. So what I was hoping is someone would have a part number or a picture of the top of their stock shroud. The radiator is a 3 row - 24 by 16 by 2.25 inches - I think a big block radiator and I am pretty sure it wasn't the original radiator- - So if someone had a pix of their shroud - it would help me a lot. I was hoping a picture standing in from of the dover fender looking at the top of the tank or something Once again - this my seem like a stupid question - but I am stuck Be well - be safe follow the guidelines and hang in there - - - Be well Sam
  7. Hello ALL, Thanks for all the helpful information. Yes - this is a deluxe interior. I have been so dang busy and not much computer time - sorry. It stinks getting old LOL - I have had the radio out at least a dozen times - but couldn't remember if I had to lift the dash pad. I have changed the sports lamp switch, front speaker heck I even did the heater core over the year Seems like my memory isn't the same -maybe if I just get out there and start working. I plan to contact Danno thanks all. I am getting ready to workon the car again -but the wife needs another knee replacement in 2 weeks dang WEll I will keep you all up to date - THanks once again If I can help please give a shout sam
  8. Hello ALL, Happy New year to all. So I am sorry haven't been on in quite some time. I have 3 questions that may be simple yet complicated This is for our 70 Mach and I have done a LOT of these thigs but forget some simple thigs Here goes - 1. - Can I remove the radio without removing the dash pad - -and how do I get usb or something to bring the radio up to date. The problem is I want to play our 8 tracks and my wife wants her Ipod. I would be glad to buy a radio that has these capabilities- -any ideas or thoughts 2. - How are the TMI door panels - or is there a better brand - suggestions on where to buy 3. - Tail lIght bezels - same thing - who makes and sells good quality - I see some cheap at CJ's - but I don't want fitment issues - -the car was painted and the bezels look a bit crappy. It is has been some time since I replaced the dash pad but have done it about 15 times over the years Well thats it for now - Thanks to all who read and offer suggestions Be well -- HAPPY NEW YEAR - -Sam
  9. Hello Big Duke6 I have been running fords since the mid 60's and NEVER had much luck with CHampion plugs in a Ford. I think a good starting point for the gap is 35 and then you can adjust after running the motor and reading the plugs. There are a lot of charts that will show the color of the porcelain after running. I think 35 is a good starting gap - make sure the plug wires are run to the correct plug. You would be surprised how well the motor may seem to run with 2 wires crossed Best of LUck - Sam
  10. Hello FrankN, Yes you can find the channels and parts at most of the big Mustang suppliers like CJ Pony, MUstangs unlimited etc Take a look at this link. I replaced mine about 2 years ago - and not quite certain but about 90% sure there is a small screw located at the bottom of the stainless - zoom on the picture - -it helps hold the stainless. When I installed mine I purchased some glue that was recommended - -I think a good silicone would work just fine. I am pretty certain I put only a few drops of silicone/glue in the channel - -not much at all. I would think you will find the trim in the door - -but at least you know you can purchase it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/fb-ss-w-s-channel-kit-stainless-window-channels-and-w-strips-1969-1970/p/DWCK/ Good luck - -Print Dad - Sam
  11. Hello Red Sportsroof Thanks for the follow up idea. It seems as though my issue is solved for now - I have not driven the car since attaching the return spring - -been very hot and humid here. I do need to take the car for an inspection this month so I gotta get it out soon Thanks again - -Sam
  12. Hello Ron, I think people would have a few questions for you mainly what type of brakes do you have power or no power. I think you must determine if the brake pedal is too low or the clutch pedal is too high. I think I would be concerned adding a stop - -you may remove the "free-play" in the clutch. This would cause to throwout bearing to stay in contact with the pressure plate forks. This will wear out your throwout bearing So I am thinking perhaps you could adjust the clutch pedal linkage to lower the pedal or you could lengthen the rod that goes to the master cylinder on the brake pedal/ Others far wiser than I will post - -but for now - please let us know about your bake set-up then I and others will perhaps have more ideas Best of Luck - -Sam Printdad
  13. Hello all, Wanted to post a follow up. The springs finally arrived and I replaced the top spring from the firewall to the Z-bar. This was the spring that was missing on our car. The pedal returns perfect now - -I can mark this one done. Thanks to all for the advice and links - - it helped a lot. In the future I will replace the z-bar bushings and I am thinking of replacing the clutch and all the parts perhaps in the winter Thanks so much - -great help - - - - Sam
  14. Hello guys, I can't wait to get the spring and see if this does the trick. It is ODD - -I am certain the spring has not been there for years. I do now use anti-seize on a lot of things and love getting my fingers silver LOL That dang stuff spreads fast LOL I also use PB Blaster for penetrating and sometimes a liquid wrench. It worked when I was trying to loosen the nut on the top of the steering box (sector shaft). Seems when I have an issue with the Mach - -I have been tending to overthink the issue. When I was young I would just take things apart and fix without thinking too much. Maybe this comes with age - but at once time I could wrench pretty well. I gotta get the Mach out to s few shows and drives - -the car deserves to be driven. I will post as soon as I get the spring - -Thanks once again Sam
  15. Hello Ridge Runner, I gotta say THANKS again - -this is a great place to find solid HELP. Our car was made in Metuchen - -but I am certain that I have located the spot to attach the spring. I am sure hoping that this will help - -would be nice and easy. I have had this car about 41 years and I can't remember even seeing a spring from the z-bar to firewall. WE wil see what happens but I am thinking that this should help. As it stands now the pedal returns about 65% of the time - -with the help of the spring I am thinking it should be 100% While I have you here - -I should ask another somewhat related question. I bought the bushing kit for the Z=bar - but have hesitated to install it. The main reason I am nervous and hesitant is I am afraid of breaking the bolt that holds the bracket for the z-bar on the frame rail. The end on the motor should be pretty easy. Any tips or tricks if I do go to install the bushings this winter? LAStly - -I want to wish you a happy Birthday - I know it is early but at least I get to be one of the first to wish you a happy birthday. I turned 67 a few weeks ago so you gotta go a little to catch me LOL Thanks so much - -Sam
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