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rwcstang

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rwcstang last won the day on August 6

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About rwcstang

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  • Birthday 03/01/1985

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    Male
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    Bay Area, CA

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    Redwood City, CA
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    Music & Cars

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  1. I'd stay away from the edelbrock Top End Kits & carb, they are outdated. go with Trickflow's top end kit or use 180 AFR heads with a new moderate cam, you can use the E303+ cam its modernized slightly https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/03/10/plus-is-the-new-e-summit-racing-e303-plus-vs-ford-e303-camshaft-comparison/ or call comp cams, and let them know your specs and your power you want to achieve. Also Intake can stay, Carb will need to be changed, maybe to a 650 cfm. (stay away from the edelbrock carbs), Headers will need to be 1 5/8 at minimum, I suggest long tubes. I have a 427w stroker w/ world products block from prestige motorsports and putting down 460hp/475tq to the wheels with 3:50 gears. I have a 750cfm, Stealth Intake, and 1 5/8 headman headers.
  2. Hello Everyone anyone got a template I can print out the shaker scoop? I am going to make my mach scoop functional again since I have a repop hood, I know the shaker hoods holes are wider but but just need basic dimensions so I know where I can center the line and make my cut. had an idea to replace the top air cleaner cover with a K&N filter and make a ram air type air cleaner. or use and modify a oval style filter element and make it into a ram air type scoop
  3. finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year. it is a great feeling to get her back on the road.
  4. I've seen some sensors location front/behind the cylinder head, I've seen some that are located on thermostat housing or on lower radiator hose like buckeye mentioned. however, my sensor is on the intake manifold. just did my contour fan conversion, I have the DD guages and DD bt fan controller. I set my fan to 190(first fan) and shut off at 185, my second fan goes on at 195 and shut off at 190 (electric fan). another plus to this DD setup if I used the bim i/o cable, both fans can shut off when Im going over 50mph to let air through and not cause any disruption with airflow. I may need to adjust the temps and relocate the temp sensor as buckeye mentions a good point, as I have noticed my e-fans at times consume some power and noticed the rpms/voltage would drop.
  5. move the large rounded part if the clip downward by the slot facing below and use a thin flat head screw driver or needle nose pliers through the slot/rounded part and pull downward..slowly, I recommend using a shop rag to cover it so it does't fly out and hit your eye or get lost. if that clip doesnt move use some lube oil (any oil) or wd40 to help with lubrication.
  6. Probably the coolest EV out there.. probably the only EV I would want to own/buy. if only they made super vans for production.. that would be boss. https://jalopnik.com/the-ford-supervan-returns-as-an-ev-supercar-shaped-like-1849099315 Those not familiar with the ford super van, here is the original one: EV super van.webp f531fad2e89dcbbc65ad535d0417cc8f.webp
  7. yeah, I need to check amperage to get the right fuse. from what I was told by dakota digital tech support a 30 amp fuse should do the trick. this is the one thing I haven't done. I'll need to install a fuse for each relay this weekend and install it one on the green wire.
  8. Nah I have the tuff stuff 1g 140amp alternator. $700 is a bit much for my taste lol. adjusted the second fan to go on later and shut off early so it would not put a major load on the alternator, I’m now between 14.0 - 14.5v at idle since the single fan is on. for those out there running the contour fan, is this Normal for voltage to fluctuate at idle when both fans are on? I have 2 x 70 amp relays. Would I need to run a fuse on each relay?
  9. This would depend on thermostat/environment, my 408w has a 180 thermostat, still testing the fans and trying to find that sweet spot. Also, this weekend was very hot so I wanted to adjust the fans to come on sooner just to see how it worked. however, even with the 140amp 1 wire alternator, these fans are putting load at idle its jumps from 14.5v and drops to 13.8v - 12.5-7v with both fans on. however, when driving it shoots back up at 14.5v so instead of having both fans going on I re-adjusted the temps again for the second fan to come on a little later. any suggestions if that type of change in voltage normal? still trying to learn this electrical fan thing as its something new to me. new settings: low fan at 180 and 188 for the high fan. its now between 13.5v - 14v at idle. also, human error on my part, as I was adjusting the temp via iOS and I noticed the app was throwing off a different temp number compared to the gauges. after reading the manual (go figure) and ran diagnostics, I forgot to configure the temp sender. its now using the BIM I/O cable and now reading accurately with the app and gauges.
  10. np, ill post more pictures of how the contour fans are mounted. today, I decided to adjust the temp via app again as I wanted both fans to be on as it was really hot today. first fan - 180 on | 177 off second fan - 185 on | 180 off Both fans were on and pulling alot of air, temps were between 180-185. didn't go over 185. this is a win and happy with it.
  11. before I went with dakota digital RTX gauges, I had a stand alone tach that was mounted on to the steering column, I never had any issues.
  12. Alright, update! Finally got my Contour Fan Installed and running. it was a fairly hot day (80 degrees) and engine temps were going from 185-190, seemed the single fan was able to keep down temps as the 2nd fan never kicked off. I used Dakota digital fan relay, PAC-2800BT since I have the RTX Series and give it a cleaner look and less wiring. I used 2 x 70 amp relays from DD. after looking around old threads for mounting ideas, I decided to go with an L Bracket to mount the dual fan. we had to trim the original mounts but otherwise, the installation was a breeze and fit like a glove. I ran diagnostics to check sensors and ran Test Mode via the app and I was able to trigger low and high fans and now the drive, the real test! The single fan was able to kick off with no problem during my drive, with the DD Accessories App, I was able to set up my low & high Temps for both fans. Low would kick off around 188, and close at 185. the second fan, would turn on around 190 and turn off at 188. The single fan was working great, didn't seem to struggle, and definitely could feel it was pulling a lot of air. Today was hot and humid, so engine temps did go up slightly and hit 190 but didn't hear the second fan kick-off, most likely when I drove, the air would make the temps go down since I'm moving in stop-and-go traffic but didn't see it rise above 190. The question I have is would you recommend if I should have both fans going on at the same time or should I have one running and the other kick-off when it gets over 190? This is the first time playing with the setup. Overall, happy with the conversion.
  13. Thanks Buening! good info here. has anyone used a Nissan Pwm fan controller in their electric fan install, or would that be fore EFI models? I've read this is a popular swap on 79-93 Mustangs, to keep the Amps down and does a soft start and doesn't spike like most fan controllers. Currently have the Dakota Digital blue tooth Fan relay that Im going to install since its less wiring connecting to my BIM Controller, but not sure if this helps prevent spikes when the fan switches on.
  14. go with 3:50's, I have him them on my 69 with a 408w and a tko600 with 64 OD. at 65mph Im slightly around 1800-2k rpm. putting down 460rwhp with 470rwtq, plenty of of power with the 3:50s and OD makes it all quiet and enjoyable.
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