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rwcstang last won the day on August 31

rwcstang had the most liked content!

About rwcstang

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    Bay Area, CA


  • Location
    Redwood City, CA
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    Music & Cars

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  1. I had a girdle on my 393w, no issues so I plan to trasnfer it with the 408w as im still using the existing block, since Dart blocks are hard to come by. some say they don't do anything, and of course if the caps walk and everything goes, nothing you can really do about it, this would only make sense if you are racing it every weekend. Im sure others can chime in as some are race theirs cars so they can probably talk more about it but so far in every forums and every engine builder I've talk to, its always 50/50. If you going use it for daily use/spirited driving, I highly doubt our stock blocks will blow unless you are really driving it hard.
  2. ugh, I despise the mustang II suspension. that kit was meant to just eliminate the shocks tower to place a wider/bigger motor but when it came to drivability, the suspension is severely out dated and dangerous. some ppl have them with their coyote swaps here in norcal but they never liked how well it handled the road. However, you have multiple options now when it comes to upgrading suspension, but it all depends on what your budget is. Street or Track Coil overs - I have front coil over kit, and love it! I highly recommend giving Shaun a call and he can't work out something with you. Open Tracker - Utilizes the stock suspension but modified with roller bearings for better suspension travel. Detroit Speed, Mustangs to fear use the corvette style suspension kit, a little pricey, but you have alot of wiggle room if you decided to go modular/ls/BB or stick with engine you have now. TCP, Global West or Mike Maier or Maier racing would be my other suggestions.
  3. Nice, another Cali Coupe! nice coupe btw! Welcome to the club!
  4. lmao @lalojamesliz what was your question? if girdles are good to have on an engine?
  5. I have Grab-A-Track 4.5 Mid Eye Leaf Springs with Bilstein sport shocks. No complaints, but since mustangsplus is no longer here. I would recommend maier, eaton or global west.
  6. no issue, you may need to bend the light tabs to fit snug, the only issue I had was the inner headlight trim ring that attached to the spring was harder to mount, but should fit very tight when in place.
  7. found these if you want the factory look aswell. these might be my next pick up if these lights fail. https://www.deltalights.com/classic-5-3-4-hi-lo-beam-led-headlight-kit-/p25
  8. @lalojamesliz I have the 6000k. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html Octane lighting link: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
  9. Good to know, I had the owner of dapper lighting messaged and try to educate me on why other brands are bad and his products are the best, but when I asked if he was going to give me a discount or at least a set for me to test, he denied it. Funny, I have friends who has their product and they got a set for free by asking. maybe I dont have a popular coupe/fastback or enough followers in Instagram? lol why educate me with all that info, if you are not going to at least give me a discount or give me a free set to try out and promote them. Either way, Im not going to pay $400(w/ options)+ plus on headlights. Octane lighting was great with my order, I purchased them through their amazon store or you can also buy from the web page: https://www.octanelighting.com/ $199+
  10. I have Octane lighting LED Headlight conversion. Good lighting, but didn't like that the front lens is plastic and clear and doesn't have any design/pattern to help with the direction of lighting/glare. however, its very bright.
  11. Check your PVC Valve, may be a good time to connect it to the manifold, also a catch can woudn't hurt either. You can also check your spark plugs for fouling, and check your valve cover bolts they may be lose or check valve cover gasket, if its cork, they are prone to leaking on to the exhaust manifold/header. I had something like this happen to me twice, my avenger (offshore heads) had bad valve seals and guides failed. which pretty much snow balled into just building a 408w with good brand parts. Good Luck!
  12. not sure if this is the answer you are looking for: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/14141757-are-three-row-aluminum-radiators-better-than-two more rows meant more surface area in contact with the fin and consequently a higher heat rejection. So a 3 row was better than a two row and so on. When aluminum radiators came around the rules changed. Cooling engineers concluded that by lowering the fin height you could stack more layers of tubes. In addition, using wider tubes would increase the tube-to-fin contact area. The end result was a very high performance radiator with a huge savings in weight.
  13. what are you HP Goals for your 408w? if under 450hp, I think the 1 5/8 will be fine. Anything above that, you may need to go bigger, your biggest restrictors will be 1 5/8 header and intake (if you stick with a stock or performer intake), a airgap or torker might be better but may require you to run a cowl hood. I never tried tri-ys, Ive read tri-ys traditionally give you nice power but sacrifice on top end rpm. this is an old school type header so Im not too sure about flow. Im getting a 408w built too, after my old avenger heads decided to fail on my 393w, again..lol. I was out putting 365rwhp 400rwtq with tko600/3:50 gears. I was running 1 5/8 headman headers and a stealth weind instake. it was great for street use! but since Im going with more power 470-500hp, I need to upgrade the headers to 1 3/4. I decided to go with FPA and they are making me a stepped header 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 and possibly port out my stealth intake.
  14. Couple of questions for you: What size diameters of those headers are those in the picture? 1 5/8 or 1 3/4? if you do not know the brand, get metal brush or something to scrub the flanges there may be a part number stamped on this will help you id in Summit or google if its ment for your application. Maybe not a requirement, but what are you current mods with the engine? from the looks of those pictures, it may be 1 5/8 header (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969) maybe 1 3/4? 1 5/8 will fit like a glove on my 393w, you can also try http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/headers2.htm roughly 1k+ but there is a delay and he is working on a backlog of orders. Almost all owners on here use FPA or some other brand headman, JBA and Hooker headers. I use the original steering but there are some owners with unisteer that can help with your issue.
  15. Thanks Ed, this is exactly what Im looking for! however the price is too high for some piece of metal, as ebay sells it for cheaper. Currently my driver side trim panel decided to crack and split in the middle, I was thinking of stripping it and fixing the crack with some JB Weld before it becomes two pieces.
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