Brian Conway

Hard to get a good visual or picture with the bumper and tail light lenses in the way. Your end caps look pretty good. Brian

NAPA shows two switches' available one for Power Brakes Echlin SL201 and one for Manual Brakes Echlin SL200. Most venders don't describe the difference. Brian

Generally speaking for an original system; the curved arm is for a 69 and the straight arm is for the 70. The brake switch fits onto the brake pedal post. The switches can be for manual brakes or power brakes. Brian

Call em

I got a hold of a date and numbers correct carburetor last month. Got it off ebay and after a little barter/swap I 'made an offer'. Seller accepted and I had a shop, J and J Carburetors, rebuild and restore to original specs. I Installed a choke kit, bent a new fuel line, hooked up the pcv and installed on my 69 Cobra Jet. A little fiddling around with the idle and the choke's fast idle speeds and we are back on the road. All in all I am very satisfied with how it all turned out. Gotta say the carb shop did a great job. Three weeks turn around including shipping, no extra's, ran it before sending it back and did it for the price quoted. Brian

I get that bouncing sensation too. Usually when the car is in first fear and the gas pedal is on the floor. Brian

On my car. Brian

Roger has explained the harness pretty well. This picture shows the beginning of that description courtesy light and fuel sender. Brian

A picture of my window and brackets. I shot the polyurethane into the cleaned bracket channel pror to glass install. Seated the bracket all the way down. Also trying to keep the glass centered in the bracket and following the contour/angle of the glass. I trimmed the dried excess urethane after drying hard. Also a picture of the shop manual page. One trick I do remember; install glass in the door. Hold the glass up to where it should be when window is closed. Vice grips and a buffering rag at the door lock push button edge. With the window locked in place begin install of the window operator arms and so on. Some fiddling involved. Brian

Pictured is a 69 window with measurements. Most of us have seen this picture before. I used it as the guide when I did my windows. Before you do any custom 'make it work' creative fix's look around and try to solve the problem another way. The stock assembly will work and you just need to figure that out. Maybe try some different arm positions on the widow operator? You say your 1" back on the forward bracket? 1/4" make that much difference? My problem with the rods was in and out not forward or back. Altering one item may start a chain reaction of corrections. Patience you'll get it. Brian

That's the one. I looked all over for that one with no luck. Thank you

Thank you for the reply and info. Wasn't sure that was a fastback or what year? The rear distribution block bracket is different than on my 69. The leaf spring forward eye bolt frame rail grommet/plug seems to be an elusive item? Brian

Picture is of a stock 428 FE block, spacer plate and the stock C6OA-D bellhousing. Three starter motor bolt holes. The exhaust manifold is notched out to accommodate that bolt and is probably the one you can't find? Brian

Great picture of the floor pans and rails. Questions; The year and body style? Back seat area what is the large brace on the left for? The circular backing plates are? The frame rail holes for the forward leaf spring bolts. Rubber and push in plugs? Thanks, Brian

Straight into the hole. No twisting or wrapping around the trans crossmember. Easy/gradual turns with the cable. If needed change you mounting/clamping points to take up the slack. Plenty of room for that all the way back to behind the dash. Jumping needle? If you have the cable properly connected to your speedometer you should be able to turn the steel portion of the cable (at the trans end) and watch the needle jump. If not properly connected (very little or sporadic movement) give the steel cable a turning push. That should properly seat the cable in the speedometer housing. Brian