Brian Conway

I am running a Holley 780 cfm with a Carter m6905 and a fuel pressure gauge. Never have any problems and the gauge reads 6 ish psi. The regulator may help ? I have never had much success in the past using them. I think a phone call or email to Carter stating your problems might be something to investigate ? I have emailed Carter before and found them to be very responsive and helpful. Brian

Thank you for posting the web-sites. Brian

Have not found it necessary to add anything to the car for towing hook ups. On my car there's not much extra room down there. A ' long J hook ' on the lower control arms is what the tow truck driver uses. Doesn't harm my front spoiler and gets on the flat bed just fine. That said; I like those tow hooks posted by Grabber. Any info on where to get a set ? Brian

In my experience, beginning in the mid 60's of the last last century, all locking rear ends required a friction modifier or additive. Brian

Alex I've run both versions. Not on the 69 but on my 65 GT. I prefer the stock version because they delivered; firmer, better handling, more responsive steering. I ran the HD version for about 2000 miles and the usually rock solid steering characteristic's were denigrated to a ' wobbley ' and loose front end subject to wandering. Pulled them out replaced with the ' cheaper ' set and the predictable handling traits have returned. Now that is my experience and opinion. Street driving, not on a race car or running a modified suspension. Just a plain old Mustang. Brian

Can't go wrong using a ford product. Brian

Looking at that project I think the OE replacement part would the way to go. I too have some experience with glass, surfboards, repairs and fabricated parts. Today's glass, resin and catalyst are a different product from the stuff I used in the last century. Forming and glassing, with strength, the edge of the air box looks like a problem. I think after you got all you ducks in a row a replacement box would be cheaper and fit better. Brian

I use a putty knife and work the blade around the trim ring. Just ease the compression fingers out of the panel trim ring a bit at a time. Don't think removing the entire sail panel is necessary or wise. Brian

Pretty sure we have discussed this here before ? Your Shop Manual also has it pictured and diagramed. I did have a friend put a set together for me. The Drivers side needs a small tab (pictured) added to clear the fuel line. Brian

Looking for a little help with the driven gear found on the 69, 4.30 rear gear, 4 speed trans speedometer cable. My build sheet specifies a WHT BLU 20 tooth gear. Looking for some confirmation from an owner with a SCJ, 4.30, 4 speed with reducer car and build sheet. Thanks, Brian

The 69 Shop manual describes 175 degrees as ' LOW TEMPERATURE ' So tepid, warm and lukewarm are considered well within operating tolerances. The ' HIGH TEMPERATURES ' are also within those same tolerances and are often describes as being beneficial. Brian

I asked because the after market temp sending units have a reputation for inaccurate readings. You state that the hottest your gauge reads is 75% of the dash gauge ? That is acceptable and I would not be concerned. When the radiator is spitting, you can smell rad. fluid and the car is stalling those are signs of problems. A simple AC thermometer will tell you most of what you need to know. Brian

Thanks for the interest guys. Yes caster does affect drifting as well as centering. Off to my favorite alignment shop this AM and all's right with the world now. The new strut rod bushings had more of an effect on the alignment than I would have guessed. New spec's are the same as the old 2011 spec's. In the notation the shop owner confused Left with Right drift. In San Diego this was a $95.00 fix. Brian

Replaced the strut rod bushings and was careful to note the caster adjustments on the rods. Well the car wants to drift to the right. So I looks like I need to do some correction? What's the fix ? Thanks Brian

are you re-using the same temp sending unit ?