stephanienl69

So this Russian kid who now lives in Germany loves American muscle.  So he decided to go to Texas and buy a 69 Mustang, then drive it around country to see America.  His eventual plan is to ship the car back to Germany and restore it.  Pretty cool.  I wonder if I can fly to Frankfurt and buy an E30 to drive around Europe for a month.
 

Hey guys. I'm swapping from AOD to T56. What I haven't been able to find is a decent clutch pedal. I'll be buying the clutch master kit and internal slave kit from modern drive line. I'm also looking to buy the Ron morris uni-cross member. If anyone has any of these parts for sale, let me know. Thanks.

Rough Fiberglass out of the mold
 

 

 

 
We will put a nice polished mesh set back about an inch into the opening. The hood will be fully functional.

So I'm making my Christmas list of projects I'd like to do over the winter and I'm thinking of putting in a rear sway bar.  I really like the idea of the adjustable style bars.  So there are 2 that seem almost identical.  The TCP and Hellwig.  Does anyone know why the TCP one would be worth $100 more?
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-sway-bar-rear-adjustable-3-4-kit-1965-1973/p/TCPARRM112/
 
or 
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hel-6806

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

Performance shops that provide body work,installation from wiring to axle/enignes..etc
 
Where or Who are they in Georgia?
 
or surrounding states
 
I live in Alpharetta,GA, and going to get some new suspension, and some other parts and probably have them install some new gauges while its there.

SOLD!
 
Pair of used Flowmaster 50 mufflers, offset in, center out, 2.5" diameter.  Mufflers measure about 17" long X 9" wide with 3-1/4" long stubs.  These have some tabs added to hang them with stock '69 Fairlane hangers.  Might be the same as '70 hangers?  The bolt centers on the hanger tabs are about 5-7/8".
 
Price is $95 for the pair plus shipping at cost from 28721.  They are only about 6# each (guessing) so shipping should not be too bad and I would use the cheapest of USPS, FedEx or UPS.
 

I redoing my 69 coupe. The previous owner decided to update the a/c compressor to the new style, serpentine belt. In the process they cut lines, hose clamped lines, botched up the condenser. The a/c control face is gone. Along with all the vac lines. I'm wondering if it'd be best just to remove all the original a/c components and clean up the engine bay. And if it comes to it I can always install an aftermarket a/c unit. I don't think it's worth the money to try to replace everything to keep it original looking.

Not the cheap Lakewood traction bars.
These bars are very heavy duty, powder coated and have the extra mount hole for staggered shock set up.
Bars replace the lower spring mount plate.
$40.00 Plus shipping.

can anyone tell me the paint codes for undercarriages and engine compartments.   And all black the fire will is not body color is that right ???   if you have a PPG number or code that would be great
 
Thanks much
Trace
 

Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/191928954846
 
Ford Motorcraft Argent Spray Paint (1) 13 oz. Can PM-19K207-AA

higher head room more modern look 
http://www.mustangstofear.com/catalog/products/DSC07290.jpg
 

looking for a good original hood latch bracket.  pls email:  stangman68@mediacombb.net

1970 Sportsroof, currently 302W and C4
What would I need to bolt in a FE engine (390 in this case)?
Anyone gone down this road and regretted it?
 
I'm guessing a C6 might be required or is thereT5 conversion parts available?

I would like some opinions.  let me have it, just be honest.  I reserve the right to do whatever the hell I like after I get some advice, but I'm looking for your thoughts.
 
I've got a beautiful coupe.  It's a base model 302/C4 - nothing really special other than ALL original VIN's in place, engine/tranny/ everything rebuilt - she's probably better than new (I've sure spent more than was ever put into it, and it's questionable if I'd ever be able to get out what I've put in.   It's ok because the car is sentimental (bought for me by my super cool dad, from my Uncle (who was second owner) in 1980.  I'll never sell, and I've got 2 boys both of whicj would be happy to keep her when I'm gone.
 
I've rebuilt the whole thing and paint is now done.  I wanted to paint on some stripes, but dear God... the cost of paint alone liked to killed me - so I left them off.  It came out great, "Ford Ruby Red Metallic" which I am happy with, but it's a dark color and it "needs some decoration" to make it look better (IMHO).  I'm not into going "far afield" form the original....
 
...but I'd really, really like some white stripes on it.
 
I really think this would look great: http://www.phoenixgraphix.com/ford/sk105.php
 
BUT, my car is not a GT.  I don't wanna be a "pretender".  How egregious of a sin is it to apply GT stripes to a regular coupe? I'm inclined to just do it, but I'd like to know what you guys think, if I'm way off in minority land, and everyone will just troll me on "pretending", I'd probably not care for that at all.
 
So what do you think?  Is it dumb to put GT stripes on a standard coupe? Or, do I deserve to do what I like? How much crap might I get if I show it?
 
Other things I am doing for looks:
Probably going with Cragar SS Chrome Wheels White letter tires  (either Cooper or Goodrich) I've already bought the "grande' wheel well chrome" edging (some installed and I love it) Alternatively, I'm thinking of doing the grande chrome wheel-well-wheel-well strip instead of the GT stripe.
 
Thoughts?  Yeah, It's my car and I will do whatever I like, but it never hurts to get some advice from folks you respect.
 
Thanks in advance-
 
Jay
 
 

How do you fasten this piece in place? http://www.themustangshop.ca/product/302184/658537
 
Just installed a tremec tko 600 in to my 69 fastback. I still have the automatic console with the automatic insert.
 
I see that the above chrome bezel needs to be installed however there are no holes nor locations pins.
 
I have the 70 hurst boot installed and 538-4106 shifter. I know there's a difference in the automatic vs standard console insert in the slant of the opening I believe.
 
I may stand corrected on that one.
 
Thanks....John

69 398 stroker, semi mild roller conversion, 10.5:1, aluminum heads, etc etc
 
The engine sits a bit low in the bay, and I am not sure why. It has the regular motor mounts. There is a good three inch gap between the 17" flex fan and the top of the repro shroud, and I actually had to Dremel the bottom part of the shroud away because the fan would hit it. The fan clears the tranny lines at the bottom of the radiator by maybe a half inch at best.
 
So, a larger fan is not an option, I have already converted to an ACP 24" 2 row HP aluminum radiator, which works great when the car is moving, way better than brass. But sitting a long time in traffic, like going in the one and only one entrance to the Street Machine Nats this year, the needle climbs steadily up. It was damn warm when I finally found my spot, didn't have any equipment to tell exactly how warm.
 
So, I think I would like to upgrade to an electric fan setup, but with some caveats. I see there really isn't a turn key solution, so I am thinking I want a system where my factory temp gauge is still functional, and I don't have to upgrade my factory 55a alternator. I am willing to run a relay for the fan so it runs off the battery, of course.
 
So, I know a bunch of folks out there have done this conversion, share with me what you have learned. Totally cool with aftermarket, not sure I have the space to do the Taurus fan thing.

This showed up today just up the street from me (500ft)Ten years in the nun hood.(storage)
I dont think cars can  have a sex.  But if they did I would let it  mate with mine..Has that girly look..
351w 4V -outo-AC..
 
My be for sale for around 13000.00....My have to do it...

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

I finally threw in the towel. I've been battling this scenario for the past year and now it's making me frustrated.
From a stand still it's a dog, but once above 2000 it fly's.
At this point, I've tried tuning so many ways that now I think I've over done it.
 
Things I've done:
Changed Quick Fuel SS 735 Carb. Vac Squirter to 35, Changed air bleeds from 70 to 74, Changed main jet from 68 to 70.
Changed from Mallory Unilte Dist to MSD 8577 added a MSD 6 box (this changed made a noticeable difference on top end)
Changed gears from 3:55 to 4:11.
 
Played up & down with timing, now it's set at Initial 16, advance 21
Below is the MSD advance chart, I'm set now with (D) Blue bushing & 2 lite blue springs.
 
Tried Quickfuel tech line but I think the guys don't understand the nature of the Cleveland heads.
Above carb adjustments is their recommendation.
 
I have been told Pos & Neg of having a 2600 stall. One person said, since I have an AOD to  be careful with the advance curve. You don't want it coming in super fast as it will be easy to lug the engine down.
 
Tried countless times to adjust the 4 corner idle screws, always wound up at 3/4 turned out, highest vac is 12.
 
Taken intake off 2x's in the past and made sure it is sealed correctly.
 
I think I'm missing something or doing something wrong with the carb adjustments. I did check the transfer slot on the secondaries (Might need to check it again).
Factory carb secondary adjustment is 1/2 out, I tried a closing a 1/4 to see if they were opening too soon. I couldn't tell so I set it back to 1/2.
 
Here's what I have-
351 4v Iron Closed Chamber 63cc heads, SS valves
Scorpion Pedestal roller rockers
Bullet Custom grind 541/559, 270/283, 50@ 220/231, lsa 110
Springs #145@1.800 & #350@1.200
RobbMc Mech Fuel Pump.
Blue Thunder Intake
Carb- Quick Fuel 735 Vac Sec
Sandersons Shorty headers
FlowMaster 40 out to tail pipe
4 speed AOD, 12" 2600 stall non locking
MSD 8577, MSD 6 box
ProMaster E-Coil 41000 volts
4:11 trac-lok 9" rear
 
 
MSD Advance Curve.pdf

Looking for Grille Molding for my 69 coupe. fastback molding will interchange.
 
thin outer both sides
wide outer both sides
Center Wide piece.
Cowl section of windshield.
 
inner headlight doors.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Folks, I have a Canton 15-820 T-Pan on my FE. It's a new build so I don't have any experience with how the oil level will show on the OEM dipstick. The Canton documentation says the pan is "8 quart system capacity" which implies the oil filter in included in the 8 quart capacity. 

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/product/15-820/15-820----FE-FRONT-SUMP-RR-T-PAN/ 

Do any of you know if the OEM dipstick is accurate with the Canton pan? I will definitely add the oil and check the dipstick to verify but I was curious if any of you have dealt with this?. 

Thank you, 
John 

I just bought the car last weekend and brought it home, with the thought of parting it out. But after staring at it all week, well you know.......the hard part was done when she said ok

Thanks for the clean up.  I know it probably gets a little tiresome and could even be irritating. Nice to have the spam removed so quickly.  Brian