Boss302

so, i dont race it, but recently ive been driving it on the highway, speeds of 55mph-70mph- sometimes, i would pass a bus, so i would floor it but give it more gas, it would shift into a lower gear and give more HP. temp,pressure all good after getting home,parking it. today, i was a traffic light, after sitting in traffic, it turned green, and i gave it gas, but didnt floor it,30 seconds, i hear this POP or metal pop sound. DRIVE gave out, i was just coasting..no smoke..fire..etc, just no momentum. pulled to the side, shifted it to neutral...that was ok... low gear,1 and 2, they didnt go either.. so then i tried REVERSE, that went, no issues there. put it in park, then drive, did this a couple times, nothing looked underneath, no leaks...fluids, draftshaft was intact...the output seal looked good. im thinking its the forward clutch, im not to familiar with them, but what ive googled,asked a friend, seems to be that. Now.. the car was sitting in the garage for a couple years before i got it, changed the fluids after i got and all...ran perfect. but this just happened, so... my question is.. can i just have some check to see if it is the forward clutch, fix it..just that. or because of the damage, i should just have them rebuild it? i dont kow when it was last touched...im assuming since its 40yrs old, it must of had a rebuild on it...and some point and time. im just trying to see if i can get away just replacing the forward clutch parts...or im better off having them rebuild it like new. i just dropped $6500 on my 69 camero rss/ss with Fuel inijection and the ignition system kit $2500 its a restomod 550hp. but i want to get the mustang up and running again...but dont want to just replace the part if later, the other parts cause it break down again.. or just wait and get the tranny rebuilt i got quoted, $1100-$1400 for the tranny rebuilt. any suggestions or ideas... thanks

i did a search couldnt find anything.. ive checked my battery, its fine...take off the neg wire while running, car still runs... but every couple days, or sometimes weeks, ill get in, and shes dead :( i charge her up and shes purring again.. i asked a local friend, he said brake/tail light switch were a common problem on them.. But wouldnt my tail lights stay on, or light glow... just where is this switch, if it is that... thanks,.

my 69 grande 302 2bbl bored 60/, is factory, running at the "E" on TEMP, or 160 with the mechanical one, thats driving...crusing..etc. some what average. if i sit in hot weather, traffic light..waiting...gawd...it gets to 180 - still average. doesnt OH, or cause problems. ill be on the highway going 60mph, until some idiot pulls near me and wants to test me, then i floor to about 90mph, hahaha, still running good, at 160 temp, though the tires have a bubble iin them, so it vibrates over 50mph

interesting...across the top of the window area, and down then looped thru a door opening... i used ONE zip tie, gawd i use a shit load of those all the time...but thought, eh, ONE should do it, and be safe enough where it would hang. ill have to try what rangerdoc did to his... i checked Mustangs Unlimited...still labeled as 69/70 thanks

make sense...just wish it wouldnt say SPORTS MIRROR 69/70 that was a while ago though...oh well. thanks

i hope i explained it well enough in the title... So,its been nagging me...since i took off the driverside door, i found the mirrior control metal tube/rod, was in the way of the window. i though i had in place, when i had the door panel back on...needless to say i was wrong When i roll the window down, it goes about 5inches, and snags on the mirrior control rod, you can see the control switch move when this happens...now since my window isnt on the track right, ill just slide the window towards the back, most of the time the rod is free from the snag, and ill roll it all the way down. Is there a special way to properly secure it to the door panel, or a added piece to tie it down...or a prope way to route the metal control rod. Anyone else have this issue? and how did you resolve it?

i found some of my front quarter panels were not tighten, and in some cases i just inserted a rubber piece between the body and the panel. Also the bumper seemed to never want to get perfectly tight.

that mustang restore guy, the doc, he has a few videos on this same issue, testing the alternator, egine on and running, put in park,open the hood, disconnect the NEG cable from the battery, if the car stays on, then the alt is working... to check the regulator, he mentioned jumping some power pins...i didnt want to risk it..but since these are Not new cars with ECM or any computers in them should be fine. recently i had the same issue, didnt drive for over a week, battery was dead. charged it...for a couple hours, at the battery terminal i used a multimeter, it read 17.5v then it started Right up. the next day it was 17.4.8- so theres a drain, but soo small, its hard to find. everyone says 13-14v, but this is what works. ill end up replacing the alt and voltage reg. ive heard in the past, replace ONE, mise well replace the other...one bad could make things worse for the other.

whats a good voltage regulator to get..any suggestions? the current one has no names,numbers..just silver box approx: 2" thick and 4" wide/tall it looks old, probably atleast 10yrs...maybe the end of its lifespan its not a show car, so need to be a special version or all shiny..etc but if its a few dollars or $10 difference, i wouldnt mind. ....is there a safe way to test the V.Reg.?

whats a good voltage regulator to get..any suggestions? the current one has no names,numbers..just silver box approx: 2" thick and 4" wide/tall it looks old, probably atleast 10yrs...maybe the end of its lifespan its not a show car, so need to be a special version or all shiny..etc but if its a few dollars or $10 difference, i wouldnt mind. ....is there a safe way to test the V.Reg.?

its a 4month old battery...but, yea after sitting, it reads 17.5v maybe the alternator is over charging it...

its a 4month old battery...but, yea after sitting, it reads 17.5v maybe the alternator is over charging it...

ok ran the checks, im getting 0.00 on mamps i drove it around some, parked it, sat for 4 hours now, and the battery reads, 17.5v using my mutlimeter on volts setting but if i plug in my battery tester to the cigar lighter it reads around 14 driving... when i idle, it reads 13.5'ish(v) i DO have the factory Clock...but it only wants to work at random times..lol might be a bad wire....but thats a pain in the ass to get off and fix anything...(unless theres a trick to it all) i had the car parked, in the garage, for 4 days..maybe 5.. usually it will be 2..3 MAX, and it starts..sure ill pump some gas in to the carb to prime it. but it starts right up. i guess, ill just check it ever so often with that trick for checking with multimeter with neg cable and neg post. thanks.

ok ran the checks, im getting 0.00 on mamps i drove it around some, parked it, sat for 4 hours now, and the battery reads, 17.5v using my mutlimeter on volts setting but if i plug in my battery tester to the cigar lighter it reads around 14 driving... when i idle, it reads 13.5'ish(v) i DO have the factory Clock...but it only wants to work at random times..lol might be a bad wire....but thats a pain in the ass to get off and fix anything...(unless theres a trick to it all) i had the car parked, in the garage, for 4 days..maybe 5.. usually it will be 2..3 MAX, and it starts..sure ill pump some gas in to the carb to prime it. but it starts right up. i guess, ill just check it ever so often with that trick for checking with multimeter with neg cable and neg post. thanks.

that was going to be my 2nd question, ma or v, thanks. for my imports and offroad vehicles, ive always used optima, red or yellow, NEVER had an issue, i swear by them,no leaks,no drains, always started, day or night wet,cold,frozen... SunPro..eh? Well, i have a triple gauge pod, VoltMeter,Oil(mechanical) and Water temp. the VoltMeter is wired to the Accessory Post, and a separate wire is also attached from the cigar lighter. But they shut off once the key is "OFF" ill do that though..tomorrow thanks.