jgkurz

@Staffy, I am also in the process of adding the Boss 302 reinforcements. Thank you for posting your work. It's super helpful. I do have a question. For the plate that gets welded into the shocktower pocket, how did you protect the original covered metal from trapped corrosion? Did you apply any POR-15 or similar treatments?

Thank you for the response. I am aware of the 1-1/8 recommendation but Jim @ Hydratech said many people also use the 1". I am curious how sensitive a 1" MC is compared to the 1-1/8. I might prefer it.

Is anyone running a 1" Master Cylinder with their HydroBoost setup? I understand a 1-1/8 MC is recommended with a HydroBoost but I was hoping a 1" would be tolerable on the street. What do you all have?

Thank you for the great responses everyone. I was hoping the reproductions were better quality. I live in the Portland Oregon area so maybe prices for OEM parts are different on the west coast. Cost of living here might have something to do with it.

Of course, but they are near impossible to find. If I do find good one they are absurdly priced.

Hi all, I am having my car painted and have discovered my driver door probably needs to be replaced. There was some poor body work done in the past that may not be worth fixing. The car is a 1969 Mach1 Q code out of Dearborn. 1) Are 1969 Mach 1 doors interchangeable with other 69 or 70 models? 2) I have the remote mirror. Does this require a specific Mach 1 door? 3) Are any of the reproduction doors of decent quality? Here are some I found: https://www.npdlink.com/product/door-shell-repro-lh-tested-for-excellent-fit/103535?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bshell%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1969&year=1969 https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-door-shell-1969-1970/p/DYNADR3-V/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-shell-reproduction-1969-1970/p/DR3-V/ Thank you! -John

Thank you Ridge Runner. Based on your response I found this: https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-light-speaker-wiring-w-speakers-1969-1970/p/WDP4/ It looks like this harness is for just one side and contains both the door and A pillar plugs.

Hi All, I have looked on Scott Drake, NPD, and CJP for these rubber A pillar and door plugs. I can't seem to find them. Does any one have a name, part number, or a link where I could purchase reproduction versions? I know this should be an easy search, but I have looked many times without success. I would be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction. P.S. don't mind the corrosion. The car is being stripped for body work and paint.

Just checked the price. 513A67-5A was $156.66 before shipping. Ouch

Hi All, I have removed the windshield, rear glass, and doors from my fastback in preparation or paint. I also have removed the chrome roofrail weatherstrip channels from each door frame. All items have black adhesive on the back side that is very difficult to remove. The windshield frame and rear glass frame is also full of the rope style tar adhesive. Are there any tricks to cleaning this black evil from my parts? 55 gallon drum of acetone? Just kidding..kind of. -John

Good points. My car is certainly not a concurs level car so I'm not sure I want to take the time to ensure a perfect 1969 color match. I just want a brand/color that will look great and be repeatable in the future if I need it. I do know that paint that has been on a car for years is difficult to match even if I use the exact same paint code and brand.

Your paint looks fantastic! My painter actually shoots Dupont, but I am asking him to shoot PPG. I am not a paint expert but I have seen more quality PPG paint jobs than any other brand. If you had to do it all over again would you go with Dupont again?

My car was the Candy Apple Red from the factory so was going to go back to that. It is red now but not the correct red. The PPG code is 71528.

Thank you for the great advice. I will paint the car after it's fully assembled.

Hi all, I am in the process of a full repaint. My 1969 Mach 1 has all body parts and glass removed. My painter wants to paint the jams, corners, and crevices then install the doors, fenders, and extensions before the full body is painted. He claims this will ensure the whole car has exactly the same paint pressure, spray angle, and consistency. I trust him and this makes sense to me but it's a bit more inconvenient. I was planning on him painting the parts separately so I could do final assembly in my own shop. Questions: 1) Do you think the car will look better if the final spray is done after assembly or could we spray body parts separately with the same result? 2) We are shooting 2-stage PPG. How many coats of clear do you think we should apply? I was thinking four. Thank you, John