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rockhouse66

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About rockhouse66

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    Jim
  • Birthday 07/15/1948

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    Western NC

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  • Location
    Western NC

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  1. I think the possible damage is to the shock absorber and its bushings due to full extension and the weight of the suspension components hanging on it.
  2. I have one. What are you using on the pot metal/aluminum parts as an additive to the water? I use mine with either Purple Power or Simple Green added but I am cleaning bearings with it. When I put an aluminum piece in it discolored it. I think that was using Simple Green.
  3. I understand Marco is no longer at K of T and their quality has suffered lately. Just passing along info I read elsewhere.
  4. I have used the BR Driven oil on 4 flat tappet engines now and had no issues with cam break-in. Maybe just lucky but I am superstitious now so won't use anything else. I should note that these break-ins were done on a dyno where the load and temperature can be closely controlled so that may be part of the reason for my success. I also made sure I had checked and rechecked everything to ensure that the engine started immediately.
  5. A Truetrac diff is nothing like a traction lok. No clutch discs.
  6. I think that is the preload. In other words, "nominal" is zero preload and then you remove shims to obtain the required preload.
  7. I doubt this is your problem, but my Grande' behaved in a similar fashion. It took me a long time, but I eventually stumbled on the fact that the stud for the idler arm had been installed upside down. So when you hooked everything up, the angle of the passenger side steering link was much different than the angle on the driver side, causing a lot of bump steer when only one tire hit a bump. How do the angles of your steering links compare when you eyeball them? Same?
  8. Which vendor space will you be in at Carlisle?
  9. The Hurst setup uses the 1970 style switch, not the '69 style that you show in your picture.
  10. More detail. Here is my '69 with a Hurst shifter, using the Hurst plate and the '70 style switch, switch retainer and a '70 b/u light switch harness.
  11. I restore smog pumps for show cars and need cores. The ones I need will have a casting number on the back cover of 7801149 and will have a 3 bolt hub on the front. These are basically 1967-1973 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury smog pumps. Have any laying around? I pay an average of $200 each depending on completeness and condition. More if you also have accessory items like the brackets or hoses. My email is jimwoods7 at outlook dot com. And thanks for looking!
  12. You will pass right by this place if it interests you; http://www.thebighousemuseum.com/ And the Biltmore House in Asheville, NC is a must see if you like that sort of history. It might take a little detour to get there North from Atlanta then East to Charlotte, but the area is very pretty with mountains and Asheville is a cool town worth exploring.
  13. https://www.ebay.com/itm/113146641389?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Listed as $145 BIN but I will do better for a member here.
  14. FOR SALE - the trim pieces shown in the photos below. All pieces will need to be refinished to be nice. Sold as a lot. The lower windshield pieces are in better than usual condition with no hard dents or bends. They are '70 style with the rounded tab edges. The upper windshield piece might be FB or might be coupe. I assume these are different? Compared to the one on my coupe, this one seems to be flatter / less curved at the ends. The plastic headlight pieces are intact with nothing broken. Price is $150 for the lot plus shipping at actual cost from NC, zip 28721.
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