Rsanter

True, there is no replacement for displacement. there is also no replacement for shedding a few pounds. If you want a drag car then that 429 is a good start. if you want a car that will handle well then that’s a step backwards. for me I would take what it would cost me and put that in the small block

They are worth $200-$400 as cores sowith good upholstery you can add from there. now, if they are original verses reupolstered, then it’s even higher as someone with a survivor car may pay a premium if they need them

In California it is illegal to shed water off your property onto a neighbors property. if this is happening you can force him to make changes that will stop that from happening

To me it really is based on the collectibility of your car as a stock vehicle verses a modified vehicle. for my 69 conv, I pulled the engine and crated it for sometime in the future maybe if I or someone else wanted to restore the car to stock.

The difference in the part number is that the 70 rotor will have the races for the 70 bearings. the rotor and hub are the same, just the inner race/bearing is different. so, technically the 69 boss302 used the bigger bearing spindles like the 70 so your clone boss302 is that much more accurate. and the bigger bearings are better from a performance/durability stand point

The wheel tub is wider at the back than it is in the front. when fitting wider/max width tires in the back you will get the inside of the tire contact the front of the inner wheelhouse before it contacts the inner rear. so, what some people do is to slice the front half of the inner wheel house and move it inward which then leaves a long skinny pie shaped gap. then you cut a piece of metal the size/shape of that gap and weld it in i believe that is what is being referred to

Look for cougar doors as well, that part is the same

So the next question I have is: how well do your windows line up? If all is well you may want to just roll them down! Remove the felts, and then cover the glass with an static or adheasive wrap to prevent overspray. who are you paying the shop to remove the trim and rear glass? That’s something I would look at doing myself. who,is removing all the wiring and brake lines in order to properly paint/detail the engine bay

So are you using a crime housing like shown or is it bare steel? i have done this several ways but using the ford pump I have always been able to find an adapter through summit that will go from the high pressure to AN. now you need to look at what the pressure really will be because many power steering systems can over pressure the regular or lower grade AN stuff. on my 69 I used product from Fragola that was rated for higher than the PS pressures. for the low pressure side, I have welded adapters to the housing, I have also used a compression fitting on the little outlet and I have just used a hose clamp on the braided line

I would have said buy a repo or if you need to fix now I would drive a punch through there and open a bit will a drill bit. put back on the cable and punch the side to recrimp it

From the electronic industry you can get the 2 pin male/female and use two side by side or you can get the 4 block 2male/2 female blocks. They will fit but are not concourse and may not be as water tight as the original would be. i would look for a donar off a cougar or farelane

Out the front is correct for everything I have seen over the years. i know a couple people that have the same concern as you plus wear on the front molding. they leave them under the hood for driving and use a second pair or pins. Then put them in place for shows

I used the flat replacemt firewall pad over a layer of dynomat. never again!!!! Than flat mat was a total pain in the ass. But I was on a short timeline that I needed to get the car back together to get to an event

Local to me and odds are to you there is a bolt/hardware supply place that has a bunch of the automotive bolts and such. thats where I get them and I think they are a whopping .50 cents each the pins they have are generic and longer than needed so you just cut them off a bit. if the factory pins are still good I have been known to reuse them. there is a Chevy bushing that is the same ID but a larger OD. if the hinge is worn wallowed a bit but I want to save it (matches the car) I will put the hinge in my mill and open the hole a bit to use the larger bushing. If there is still a bit of the wallowed out left then I have been known to hit it with a welder or even fill a small amount of gap with some epoxy (you want the bushing fully supported)

The bushing are available for cheap at automotive supply houses, I keep a box in stock. some pins can be reused, some get wear and need to be replaced. i have rebuild many of these original hinges, they are easy if need you can come over and I’ll help you with them

Honestly, if this is the wife’s car, first thing is I would add the power brakes. adding the booster and swapping the pedal is easy to do even with the engine in the car. Odds are she is used to a car with power brakes (as most people today are) so that I think is the direction. you will need the proper PB petal but for the booster I like to use the booster from Tuff stuff. I got mine from summit racing and it was less than a rebuilt original. The Tuff stuff booster is a non-concourse version of the booster used on the boss 429 so it give a feel just like the original but also leaves a bit more room in that are which makes it easier to work on. originally I went with it because I was going with the willwood MC and it was too long to fit in that space. I am super happy with the setup I currently have going to disc brakes: you can add the willwood disc brake kit to the front and add an adjustable prop valve and all this is easy bolt on stuff if you are not concerned about absolute originality. You also have the option to go, with the factory disc brake setup if you wanted it to be more factory appearing

Some things to think about you remove and reinstall: emblems bumpers door handles etc how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do? you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there. you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage

I have the PDF templates to,cut your dash that I made for someone else here. email rsanter@aol.com if you need it

X pipe is better this is what I made for my car

I’m not near my car (I’m in Australia on vacation right now) i went from factory front disc brakes to 4 who disc. the rear discs are off a Lincoln LSC. i also went to a booster by tuff stuff (non concourse version of the boss429 booster and a willwood MC (same bore as stock) the feel and travel for the pedal at least feels the same as it did stock and my brakes are great.

IMO the 15/16 to 1” is the bare minimum to run yes you can go too big but 1 1/8 I think will be great

The printed circuit on the back of the gauges fails take a look at it

That’s what they look like to me

Find local mustang people around you. offer to get together and work on cars, offer to help them on their car. i have had several apprentices over the years, one was a younger guy from work that knew a little about cars. He would come over and help me with my cars and I would help hum as well as give him a place to work on his car. currently it’s my daughters x-boyfriend. He has learned a lot about cars from me as well as helping me a lot around the shop

Post pix of them