TexasEd

Thanks! The yellow wire was the problem. Put it all back together with the old VR and a new yellow wire connected to the Voltage regulator yellow wire that only had the noise ballast plugged into it. Now I show 14V to the battery when the car is running! No new VR or Alternator required. I may still replace the VR with a solid state one.

I tested what I could and still suspected the alternator but I replaced the voltage regulator with one from Autozone. Still not charging. I think I also have some suspect wiring. I plan to contact @Midlife but here are the pictures. The wiring from the alternator had this patch with electrical tape and the tie in to the headlight harness spliced. The two bare wires from the headlight harness were spliced to the last wire with the connectors in it. See the two cut wires in the middle. They are spliced to this wire that goes on the hot side of the solenoid. I don't know what the yellow was for.

Anyone done the upgrade to TMI Sport or Sport II foam on existing frames?

Yes I drove and I bought the complete kit with the booster. There were times I wished I was staying manual like when I had to replace the pedal and when I had to rehook the brake lines.

I'll get it tested.

Thanks. My local Auto parts store said they can test it on or off the car. Should I bother with that or just get the new parts? I'm thinking the latter since they are old and unreliable as it is. I was thinking of going with this one from NPD https://www.npdlink.com/product/alternator-new-70-amp-natural-case-powermaster-design/205631?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dalternator%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Where should I get the voltage regulator?

you can get the starter tested at an autoparts store.

Looks great. I think the hose I bought last year came with a spring but that is a good solution.

As many of you know I got my car driving again recently and I think that my alternator is not charging the battery. I guess tha car can run without the alternator if tha battery is providing enough juice? I'm leaning on just replacing the whole thing vs a rebuild. What are the brands to get or avoid? I read that I should get a new voltage regulator at the same time. Anything to get or avoid here?

Went to my first car show today. Had to get a jump to leave and confirmed that my alternator is dead. Now to decide to rebuild or replace. I don't think it is the original case. It says Motorcraft on it. Where is the best place to get one?

My wife complained about the manual brakes and she just drove it with the power brakes and didn't mention it. It is a big difference.

Alignment and new points, condenser and ignition wires! Drives great now. The drive up was a little scary. I had done a shade tree alignment but didn't really torque down the Lower control arms well enough and the passenger side cam slipped when I hit a pothole. I thought I was going to go in the ditch. Drive home was so much fun.

On that side yes, you can see the pins in the picture if you look closely. I don't want to assume the pins are under the other one until I pull the medallion off.

I got the passenger side off with a wood block. Big mistake. Back side is rusted out, painter put them on with double sided tape and it left a huge dried out paint and rusty mess. Looked like a piece of cardboard was between the glass and back to create a tight fit.

I installed the CSRP 4 cylinder power kit on my original spindles. If I can do it anyone can. It would definitely be easier with the engine out but I did mine with it in.