Jump to content

TexasEd

Members
  • Content Count

    985
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

TexasEd last won the day on March 18

TexasEd had the most liked content!

About TexasEd

  • Rank
    69 sportsroof

Profile Information

  • Location
    Austin, Texas

Converted

  • Location
    Austin, Texas

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I might have extra I can send you. I did mine and had a ton left over.
  2. where do you buy the Daniel Carpenter?
  3. Like the title says. I have 50 year old weather stripping I think is letting exhaust in the trunk and water in the windows. Is this any good? https://a7387.cartserver.com/store/shopcart.aspx
  4. Thanks for the reminder on the neutral safety switch. That was it. I shifted to drive and back to park before I tried to start it and it cranked. I think one of my kids may have played with the shiftier when I let them sit in the car.
  5. I have the higher back seats with headrest. I don't know if they make a Sport R set for my seat. I don't want to replace the whole seat and frame, just the foam and cover.
  6. I have been driving my car a couple months. I found out that my battery was not charging because the control wire from the alternator to the voltage regulator had been cut (Thanks Midlife for the help). It started for me once after I connected that wire and I confirmed it was charging the battery. A week later it would not start. Here are the steps I've verified: No noise at all when I turn the ignition key Battery fully charged at 12.6V No voltage at the S terminal on the starter relay/solenoid when ignition in start Jumped the battery to the S terminal on relay and the starter engages and the car fires I assume this is something in the ignition switch or wiring between the switch and the relay. Is there anything else I need to check? Can I bypass the key and hot wire it to make sure the wiring up to the key works? Do I just need to order/install a new ignition switch? Thanks
  7. Thanks! The yellow wire was the problem. Put it all back together with the old VR and a new yellow wire connected to the Voltage regulator yellow wire that only had the noise ballast plugged into it. Now I show 14V to the battery when the car is running! No new VR or Alternator required. I may still replace the VR with a solid state one.
  8. I tested what I could and still suspected the alternator but I replaced the voltage regulator with one from Autozone. Still not charging. I think I also have some suspect wiring. I plan to contact @Midlife but here are the pictures. The wiring from the alternator had this patch with electrical tape and the tie in to the headlight harness spliced. The two bare wires from the headlight harness were spliced to the last wire with the connectors in it. See the two cut wires in the middle. They are spliced to this wire that goes on the hot side of the solenoid. I don't know what the yellow was for.
  9. Anyone done the upgrade to TMI Sport or Sport II foam on existing frames?
  10. Yes I drove and I bought the complete kit with the booster. There were times I wished I was staying manual like when I had to replace the pedal and when I had to rehook the brake lines.
  11. Thanks. My local Auto parts store said they can test it on or off the car. Should I bother with that or just get the new parts? I'm thinking the latter since they are old and unreliable as it is. I was thinking of going with this one from NPD https://www.npdlink.com/product/alternator-new-70-amp-natural-case-powermaster-design/205631?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dalternator%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969 Where should I get the voltage regulator?
  12. you can get the starter tested at an autoparts store.
  13. Looks great. I think the hose I bought last year came with a spring but that is a good solution.
  14. As many of you know I got my car driving again recently and I think that my alternator is not charging the battery. I guess tha car can run without the alternator if tha battery is providing enough juice? I'm leaning on just replacing the whole thing vs a rebuild. What are the brands to get or avoid? I read that I should get a new voltage regulator at the same time. Anything to get or avoid here?
×
×
  • Create New...