TexasEd

I just measured the outside of my fastback roof and it is 50"x45" that doesn't even count the sail panels. you probably need about 24 square feet with them

I just got mine installed in my 69FB conversion from Drums to front power disc. When doing the master cylinder, proportioning valve and distribution block lines the order you install them matters. I had most of mine in and had to remove them and install in a different order. Install the proportioning lines before installing the Master cylinder. After getting the Master cylinder in connect them to the distribution block Next install the master cylinder line to the distribution block closest to the firewall then the other one.

Still working on this. I know it's slow but my kids encourage me. I had to remove half the lines I had installed in order to get all of them on in a different order but it looks like the next step is to bleed the brakes.

Got the Master Cylinder bled and mounted on the booster. Started attaching the lines and man is space tight. Got half on tonight and will do the rest tomorrow.

Order a set of brakes from CSRP and they will fit on the drum hubs. I've just installed mine and still getting the master cylider on. Here is my thread:

I'd like to see your idea to route the AC lines. I hate the way the AC and heater lines clutter the engine bay.

Great list. The ones I've done are in Bold. I don't have a big budget so this is what I think will be best for short of road racing. I'm in the process of a CSRP disc brake upgrade.

I upgraded to roller bearing spring perches and the Arning/Shelby drop with parts from Jon at http://opentrackerracing.com/ and steering rebuild components from Dan at http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ I have not been able to drive it yet but all reports are it should be better than new and it was affordable way to get a good driving car.

I decided to order a new set of stainless lines for the front of the car. I'm planning on taking off the distribution block and cleaning it. Any tips on this? I'm nervous about what appears to be the brake light warning sensor. Any tips on cleaning out the rear lines, I was not planning to replace those since money is tight.

I need the spring that returns the parking brake handle back under the dash when you release it. Mine stays pulled out and I have to manually return it by pushing it in. I also need one set of the screws that hold a headlight in by the trim ring and the individual screw that holds the outer chrome beauty ring on at the top of the outboard lights on a 69. Thanks

Thanks. I painted it tonight. Got the new brake pedal In and the booster mounted to the firewall. When I get the brake light switch back on I'll be done under the dash. Have one bad hard line nut on front passenger side. I'll look around for how much a replacement is.

I forgot to include in my update that when I was contorting myself to get under the dash and release the brake plunger rod from the pedal that I could not get the passenger door open. I heard some parts fall apart inside the door. Another thing I get to look forward to.

Yes, they do and yes it is on the wrong side per the box label. When reading the CSRP instructions it said, "Regardless of package markings the preferred orientation for the rotor slots on the outboard sides is to radiate from the hub to the edge in a clockwise fasion for the passenger side, and anti-clockwise for the driver side." So I did it that way on purpose per the instructions. I'm open to comments.

First weekend progress is all new brakes on all four corners. Rear drums rebuilt with all new parts and front corners have the drums gone. Installed are the CSRP 4 caliper disc system with new rotors, bearings, and calipers. Also got the old master cylinder out.

Weekend is over but this is what I got done. Both rear drums rebuilt with all new shoes, drums, springs, and wheel cylinders. Both fronts have old drums off and new rotors, bearings, and 4 piston calipers installed. Removed the old master cylinder The hardest thing I had to do was clean off the old grime on the front knuckles and attach the cross over tube between the front and rear cylinders on the disc calipers. The CSRP kit is going together really well, the instructions are excellent, and the kit is very complete.