TexasEd

Hope Ridge is ok this time around

My build list has a Quick Fuel Brawler on the list. 650 is what I was looking at for the 351W. Glad you like it.

I used electrical tape to insulate mine because it is so hard to get the spacing right and the cardboard moves.

Thanks, I see a facebook add for one out of a 67-70 Mustang in Dallas. I think they want to much for it, only 28 spline and open diff. I may try to negotiate it down. I'd have to make a trip to get it.

Thanks, this is what I need because a lot of the ones I see list different things. Some with axles some without, etc. I would like to avoid modifying the axle width so I will focus on that 55 3/4" tube end to tube end. If they have the right spring perches then I'll take that as a bonus.

If I had my car now I'd measure my 8" rear to get the info but it is in the shop. What is the width of: Drum face to drum face? End of Tube to End of Tube? Outer edge of spring pads? Spring pads are supposed to be on the bottom, right? If you get a truck one they will be on top and have to be moved, correct?

there are three springs involved The big one under the car that gets stretched tight when you step on the pedal. Releasing the brake allows this one to relax and the pedal goes up. - If that one is broken or missing you could have this problem. The handle return spring that is compressed when you pull the handle. If this one were broken your handle would not pop back to the normal position after you puled it and you could not set the parking brake without manually pushing it back. The spring(s) in the brakes themselves that pull the shoes away from the drum. If something was keeping the shoes tight against the drum it could stop the rest from working. Also look to make sure things are not bent in the pedal assembly as was suggested above.

I'm thinking of getting one of these. I saw a youtube video on it I think they did the install like you did but then generated a timing map before they started it. Here is a guy who had a failed install and figured out he did not have 12V to the distributor.

I love those 2005 front ends with the light arrangement. We haven't had lights like that since 1969.

Empty spot. Already own the T5. Body goes to the shop on Friday.

I think they are 289/302 specific and not long enough but not 100% sure. I could hold on to them but not sure they will fit. I know you need different headers for GT40P heads and some other aftermarket heads. https://jbaspeedshop.com/i-22726194-65-73-mustang-289-302.html They make a model 1650S for 302 and 1653 for 351W

I can find a lot on building a 302 block due to the Fox body guys but not much on 351W. We pulled the 302 out of my car and while the intake, heads and other accessories were all original the block was a 75 block already bored 30 over. So now I’m looking at getting a roller 351w to put in with the stock bottom end. My builder wants to stick with the Trick Flow 170 11R head’s with 53cc chambers we planned to use on the 347 stroker but I don’t think we can use the RPM Air Gap on a 351 due to hood clearance. Still putting in a built T5 and going to 3.8 gears. Goal is about 400hp from carbureted engine. Which intake: RPM Performer, Weiand Stealth or other? Should we consider other heads? I’m going to have to sell my ceramic JBA shorty headers too don’t think they work on 351. I’ll take recommendations on those that work with stock steering, power brakes and a T5. Thanks

It’s like the airlines with hubs. No direct flights to the smaller towns.

Damn it. Apparently my dad swapped out the original block while I was in college. It has a 75 block that was rebuilt. I’ll bet it was bored. I should have taken off the starter. It has the original heads and intake. My suspicion is it leaked at the rear main seal and instead of fixing it he swapped it out