TexasEd

I've been interested in several but they usually look too custom/modern for my taste when I would like a better designed and more function original looking one. I may try to build one at some point and look for pieces that look appropriate to the era. I have a dark red interior so my thought was to get some camera case material sheets (plastic or vinyl) and try to cover a frame in it and dye parts of it red and others would be black. So not answering your question except that I don't care for anything out there enough to pay the prices asked. This one from TMI is the one I like the best so far.

Mine was horrible before I replaced all the steering bushings and rebuilt the power steering system. Also added a roller idler arm. Did this at the same time I did the suspension and brakes. Then used the shelby drop/radial tire alignment specs. You can get under the car and have someone turn the wheel to see where the slop is between the steering column shaft turning and the wheels moving. Love it now.

heard back from the shop today and the earliest they can get me in is 8-12 months from now with a 6-12 month turnaround after that. I'm going to put my car back together and drive it until they are ready and pull the interior back out before they get it.

I put a few calls out and will see if the team that quoted about $10K in 2020 can still do it for that. I think that included them taking out all the interior which I have already done so maybe there is some wiggle room if I do the interior work and some of the reassembly. I would like the shop to do the stainless trim since I have little experience there. Anything else I should make sure the shop does?

A couple things looks strange to me without comparing to a diagram or looking at my car. Assuming the car in the OP's avatar is this one it is a 69. In the first picture looking down it looks like two hoses are going vertical through the support bracket that is supposed to run horizontally under the Lower Control Arm mount.

I would check with Dan at Chockostang. http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

I have too many kids/not enough time to do it myself. If I tried that route it would take 7+ years. I don't have the space either, I have a garage but the dust would be everywhere in there. I'd probably try to rent a stall and that would be money better spent on labor.

Had this car a long time and it has some paint and other damage. The peeling paint is in at least 3 places, both upper quarters and above the trunk. The valance is bent and probably easier to replace it and the right quarter extension has a chunk missing but I have a metal replacement that is yellow. The engine could use a top end rebuild and the paint looks decent from 20 feet. I know to do this right will be over $10K. I have it in cash but this would be the most I've ever spent on something for me alone other than a daily driver. The car is probably worth more than my paid off daily driver that I plan on keeping for a long time. It also needs a new headliner, new windshield and if it was painted I would want to replace or rechrome the bumpers. I have the interior out and new seat foam and covers, new carpet and I'm ready to paint/dye the hard trim. Next thing it will need is all new weather-stripping. So my choices are put the interior back together with torn headliner or send it out to get painted which will probably take several months.

What part are you describing when you say quarter scoop? I'm picturing the 69 sportsroof rear quarter fake scoop. I have one of mine out now to tighten the black inserts because they are loose and rattle a little but there is no chrome around these parts. Edit - thinking now that this is the coupe trim?

Great. My dash is still apart while I finish up the stereo install. I even have the gauge cluster out and did some minor resto work on it if you have questions. I took mine down to the firewall and have a lot of pictures not posted yet if you need those. I'm installing that AC system I mentioned above.

My grommet was there only the spring was missing. It's not rubber, I think nylon but brass would probably work.

Here is a post from 2012 when I was fixing the shade tree fix on mine that discusses this. I ended up finding a spring in either one of those 1000 spring assortment kits from HFT or in a box at Home Depot. My grommet was already there.

Mine looks a little different than the picture you posted. I don't know if they are truly different or mine had a repair. you can see my new spring on the rod here. That rod is an extension of the pull handle. To install it I took off the handle assembly by prying open the two tabs on either side of the cam at the top of your picture. Then I was able to wiggle the whole thing including the bar out. You should be able to reassemble it with a washer as a spring retainer the only thing is that the nylon washer sleeve through the hole keeps it from binding when you pull. mine looks more like this

Another vote for Open Tracker Racing and Jon. I did the 4.5 mid leaf rear springs plus the roller bearing spring perches on mine with the poly spring bushings and stiffer springs plus the Shelby/UCA drop. I love how my car handles and it is a reasonable prices way to go. If I had the money I would go do a stroker with AOD in my automatic car. 400hp being the target.

CRSP