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TexasEd

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TexasEd last won the day on November 29

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About TexasEd

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    Austin, Texas
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    http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47301-69-fastback-first-car-in-1985-bought-it-back-in-2011/

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    Austin, Texas

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  1. I bought the Classic Auto Air perfect fit kit and it looks pretty close to a factory air system when installed. https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/complete-ac-systems/1969-ford-mustang-air-conditioning-system/
  2. So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in. Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger. I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids. Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January. So excited. Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop. Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time. I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps. My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else. Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people. So share your stories, encouragement and advice. Drivetrain Plan: Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan: I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff. I could potentially do all the following Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
  3. Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums? I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc. Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed. You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install. None of those problems switching to manual discs. So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step. Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
  4. The sending unit is hard. I installed one in a tank before I put it in the car and it was difficult. Doing it under a car is harder. I developed a leak the second time I worked on the sending unit while the tank was in the car and made a huge mess. The hard part is keeping the flat washer flat as you place the sending unit on it and then tighten down the pressure ring. If you can do it out of the car I recommend that. A little petroleum jelly on the washer also helped to keep it in place.
  5. Ridge answered me by Direct Message he did say they had moongrain finish. Pretty excited about these, definitely going to get a pair.
  6. @Ridge Runner Working on a group order: @Brian Conway TexasEd @jjstang @rr03cobra Maybe others from back earlier in the year: @shelbyshelby @10shots
  7. Sorry so late on this but I think you could do it either way and there are pros and cons. Depends on what you are starting with. I thought that the engine block does not care which water pump you use but I'm no expert. You just have to be consistent on pump, radiator, brackets, etc. If you want it to look correct then passenger side. If you don't care and don't have a radiator, brackets or water pump yet then I would do it to the drivers side and get 70 brackets.
  8. I need new ones too. My interior is dark red and I have some paint for it. What is your lead time and price? A couple orders at the same time may make it a batch run and more efficient.
  9. those assumptions get people all the time with cars this old and numerous previous owners. I need to go make a list of the mods I've made so when my kids are sorting it out after I've lost it they can figure it out.
  10. I tried it with two tubes using dowels once and bolts another time. Both of them blew out sideways.
  11. I'll just point out that using the tube without the applicator is just a pain in the ass.
  12. Yep 8" vs 8.8" . they are not the same differential.
  13. The panel was not tightened down during that, I was test fitting it. Yes, I am missing the screw. It looks better with the panel screwed down, the bottom is still a mess. Anyone have a pic showing how it fits under the sill plate?
  14. Don't dim. https://www.customcarlight.com/ford/mp-6970-led-ga-xp-aqua-69-70-kit-mustang-gauge-led-lamps/ If I was doing it again I think I would get blue instead of Aqua.
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