TexasEd

Yes, it was all in the kit. They are in the small white box in the center of the photo. The only thing I need to go back and get is a new radiator cap but I bet my old one fits. I test fit the top bracket to the core support and it did not look right. I might have to do some repairs to the core support in order to get the new radiator installed.

All the parts are in from WCCC and the car is backed into the garage to get started on this project. I'll keep you updated here.

Welcome, Very similar to my car except I have a C4 and Dark Red interior. I've always dreamed of putting in a 5 speed transmission. Ed Edit: Love seeing what it looks like with Shaved emblems on a Red car. I've considered doing that and now I know which way I prefer it!

That happened to my before but not with my Mustang. Had to roll down the window and drive with my head out the window to pull over.

I have a 69 Sportsroof with my original 302. Once I'm done with cooling upgrades, interior and body I may address power. I think I would like to be in the 400-450 HP range and it would be nice to have a sub 11 second car. I have a C4 with an 8" open differential. Regardless of engine upgrade I would want a Traction-Lok 3rd member but 8" vs 9" is undecided (Is 9" essential after a certain torque rating?). Transmission is a secondary decision. Staying with SBF Windsor V8 but want to know the pros and cons of: a) Stroking my original 69 block 302 to 331 with new intake, heads, roller cam/lifter conversion, crank, pistons, etc. Maybe going with Holley Sniper but happy to stay with regular carb. b) Building up a roller 351W and maybe going to 408. What are the cons of swapping to a 351 block? What is the trade-off in price or other factors? Really interested in people that have done this. The people that have not seem to all say go 408 but one guy that has says go 331.

Thanks for the explanations. I have a factory non-AC car with Dealer AC and installed on a 302. It originally had the manifold heat riser but that rusted away in the 80s and has had a Holley with electric choke since then. I sometimes have issues starting my car when the engine is warm after sitting a while. The choke closes while sitting and the car wants it open. Maybe it's an adjustment issue but it is fine after 60 seconds of running. It would be cool to remove the electric line and use the heater hose to open the choke. Having the non AC car with dealer AC makes it interesting for me. I'm getting ready to tear down to the heater box and restore everything and put in an R134 conversion AC system that uses the dealer AC routing.

I like the water line going past the choke. Does that heat up the choke if the car is hot but has been sitting?

Great. My Autolite carb is damaged and in a box. It is replaced with a Holley and I have the filter in between carb and pump (Carter mechanical pump). I'm using a filter that I don't like the look so next change I'll put a smaller diameter one on.

I saw a post a while back about the proper fuel filter location. I think it said it was supposed to be between the tank and the pump. Mine is between the pump and the carb. Where is is supposed to go and what type is the correct appearance? I have a 69 with 302. Thanks

Following. I have a JBA shorty header set on my radar to replace my leaking original manifolds. let me know your thoughts on them once you get the gasket fixed.

My "Oh $&!+" moment was driving home from a cruise in with my neighbor who at the time only had a learner permit and getting up to speed to merge onto the highway my throttle linkage got stuck in wide open and I could not slow down. I (relatively) calmly shut off the ignition and shifted to neutral. Used my now manual steering and brakes to pull on the shoulder and stop. He said, I never would have thought of doing that and I replied me neither when I was 15, remember that experience counts for something but don't take it for granted. I also pointed out that this is harder to do with a newer car because you have things like locking steering columns, etc.

Mine looks similar. I think I did get it off and back on while the booster was on or loosened. Edit: just saw message about Clutch plate. I don't have one, C4.

whew

You might need to put out a wanted ad for parts from a Fixed to Fold Down conversion. Alternatively: The top angle piece could be made from aluminum fairly easily but I think it has a texture. Maybe powder coating would work. The side pieces could probably be used to make a mold and then cast them or make them in fiberglass. If you're tech saavy you could maybe get 3D printed since they are not too big. Still need a donor mold to borrow.