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KMD88

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  1. Yeah, that's the thing. The current one I have is fitted. It's just too thick and bulky to take on and off every day. The microfiber sheets may be an option I should look into. Thanks @TexasEd
  2. Hi everyone, My 69 is in a shared private closed garage. It's safe from the elements, but I'd prefer to keep it covered to avoid attention. Is there a car cover or sheet out there that can simply drape over the car? I already have a weather-proof/thick car cover, but it's a pain in the ass to take on and off. I just want something I can drape over the car with ease every day. Any options out there? Thanks.
  3. Is this what I basically need? https://www.cjponyparts.com/redline-lumtronix-headlight-power-upgrade-harness-for-four-headlights-1969/p/HVU2/
  4. Thanks for the info CapeMustang. Looks like this could be the culprit. I'll look into installing relays with the info provided here.
  5. Hi everyone, Just replaced my headlights in my 69. Drove it for about 40 minutes at night, then hit the freeway. Was on the freeway for about 5 minutes or so, averaging 50-60 mph. Right as I was exiting, I noticed my headlights begin to dim, then shut off completely. Then they came back on. Right after, I drove down a main street for about 2-3 minutes with the lights still going in and out; fighting to stay on. Finally I flipped the light switch in and back out; which seemed to do the trick. No problems for the rest of the night, but I didn't get back on the freeway. What could be the issue? The car drove fine the entire night; even during the headlight issue. My interior lights stayed lit as well; never dimming. Thanks,
  6. Thanks everyone for your help. Got the car back over the weekend, and did some experiments. Cold Start (sitting for a day or so) – 2 Pumps. Crank. Warm Start (Within half an hour) - Half a pump. Mid-Way (about an hour or more) – crank and press down about 3/4* By the way, is there anything wrong with cranking, then adding gas? I know it's supposed to be reversed, but was just curious if it makes a difference. Thanks!
  7. You may be onto something here. There was one day where temps were unusually high. After about an hour, I started the car and it acted as if it was flooded. Had to put my foot down on the pedal and crank until it started running. Also, we found the throttle cable retainer was broken at the carburetor bracket, so that's being replaced as well. Could that have contributed at all?
  8. Hi Roger. Choke is set and works fine. So no matter when you were starting the motor (cold or otherwise) two pumps is all it took?
  9. 351 Windsor, Carb is a 600 CFM Classic Holley Carburetor
  10. This is embarrassing, but I have to put my pride aside for this one. I've had my 69 Mach 1 since March. I love it, and I've been very lucky with the condition it was in when I purchased. I was considering going EFI to make life easier, but the mechanic I work with was pretty against it; citing nothing but problems with each conversion he worked on previously. I have a 351 Windsor, and besides an engine swap, he told me to stay carburated for the time being. In addition, the mechanic said the carburated looks to be timed/calibrated properly. I'm fine with this, except I just can't seem to dial in exactly what the car needs to start sometimes. Here's what I've deciphered: When I haven't driven the car for two days or more, two full, slow pumps on the gas will do it. When I drive the car around, leave it for 5 minutes, then start her back up, I just put my foot 3/4 of the way down on the gas and turn the key. Starts right away. But after driving, then leaving her for an hour or two and coming back, it's sometimes a crap shoot. I've flooded the motor a couple times trying to figure it out. So all this is to say, is there a rule of thumb or a method to really know what the engine needs? I'm getting my car back from the mechanic this week, and I don't want to be the newbie that can't start his own car right away. I've searched online for help, but there's very little about starting carburators online. Or maybe I'm not using the right search terms. Either way, would appreciate your advice. Again, embarrassed to ask, but you have to start somewhere. Thank you.
  11. The prices are parts and labor. I'm in the Los Angeles area.
  12. Thank you all for your advice. I've been going through it all and making notes. Big shout-outs to JayEstes and Mach1Driver for their in-depth and no-holds-barred explanations. That's what I needed. I'd love to start working on the car myself, and I've joined the Mustang club in my area. Unfortunately, I'm a little hampered by space at the moment (my garage is really small...can't even open both car doors while in it) and I travel for work and have been unable to go to meetings. I'm hoping to start attending them regularly in September and make some new pals who can show me the ropes. I'm a pretty decent fixer-upper, but I don't have any mechanic experience. I do want to learn though. With that said, I'm going to go to the mechanic on Wednesday and talk over everything they spotted/estimated. I'll see what I can fix myself vs what I should leave to the experts. You guys have already provided me a head-start there with your feedback. Once again, really appreciate all the feedback. It really helped.
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