potato

I'm going with 9/10. But I wont be able to collect my prize until the site cranks back up 10/1.

Selling the glass a previous owner had put in the door of my 69 coupe. I believe its a fastback window. The curve and height is wrong for a coupe. Brackets are glued to the bottom. Its got a DIY window tint job that's seen better days. $150 as is/where is, in Augusta, GA. If you need it shipped, that probably wont be cheap due to size, weight, and having to pad the heck out of it.

My new window finally came in. I gave it a quick measure and its 15" and some change tall, so shouldn't be another fastback one. :D I got all the different parts glued to the window. Then a couple hours later realized I managed to somehow put the front one on backwards. Despite checking it a dozen times and telling myself not to do it, I somehow did it. :D Luckily I caught it while the glue was still not fully cured. I was able to get the bracket off and cleaned up and glued on the correct direction. Something I noticed the first time gluing the bracket on is it was a bit of a chore keeping them from tilting. This time around, I used a couple stakes and a clamp to hold the brackets so they're at least on the same plane with each other. Whether or not that makes a difference, I'll know after the glue dries and I go to put this thing in.

I think thats it then. Time to order the correct window, and all the parts that glue to it. And now I have a passenger window for a 69 fastback. The only logical thing to do is buy the rest of the car that fits my window. :D

Mine's a coupe.

Its hard to get a really accurate measurement with the glass installed in the car. Measuring the height along the back edge of the glass, the drivers side is about 15" and the passenger side is 13.5'.

I believe mine is 69 glass. The door glass in the 70 is longer due to them moving the weather strip to the rear window. And I believe fastbacks use unique door glass. The coupe and convertible have the same, and the fastback has its own. I reckon due to the angle of the windshield. My glass appears to be too short top to bottom. With it glued all the way into the U channels, it is not possible to roll it up far enough to touch the weather strip at the top. I wonder if that is the cause for the glass also appearing to not fit front to back.

I'm dealing with door windows.

I wonder if somehow I have the wrong piece of glass then. Like if the previous owner had maybe put a fastback window in my coupe, and just installed it so incredibly incorrectly that it somehow managed to work. But then when I go to install it the correct way, the thing is too short.

And how "deep" inside the U channels of those gray parts should the glass be glued? I played with my stuff some more and it seems like I have the glass down too deep. The guide runs into the top of the guide rods and the window still needs to go up about another inch.

I have been going through the doors in my 69 mustang to get the windows installed correctly so they quit flopping around. The doors have the glue-in style glass. I watched the video that west coast cougar has about these windows. I ordered the parts that glue to the glass since mine were either cracked or mutilated by a previous owner. Like the video said, I glued the brackets to the windows with a 1 inch gap from each end. I got the drivers side installed and it lines up very well. On the passenger side, it seems like the window needs to slide back in the door at least an inch. The problem is the regulator and the front vertical guide rod. They will not allow the front gray piece thats glued to the window to move any further backward. And because its glued to the window, the window cannot move any further backward. Is there some magic voodoo to be able to slide the vertical guide rods backwards? My current plan, now that this thing is firmly glued to the glass, is to drill 2 new holes on the part thats glued to the window so the guide piece is moved forwards a bit. And then elongate the slot in it for the captured bolt where it attaches to the regulator. That way, if this doesn't work out, I've only ruined 1 piece. You guys are my last hope to be able to get this correctly adjusted before I break out the power tools.

I'm finally getting around to sorting out everything that goes inside my doors. The previous owner cobbled something together that mostly worked. But the windows were on the loose end floppy side. What started out as "no problem, I'll just reglue the windows" has snowballed into having to replace all the parts that are glued to the window, most of the guides that it rides on, and some of the stops. I think I have all the necessary parts ordered. Some of them have arrived. The windows are out, and I'm currently covered in black goop from getting the old broke and incorrect parts cut off the windows. Probably another few hours of cleaning up, then I can start putting it back together.

What are the factory recommended lifting points for picking up our cars on a 2 post lift? I recently got my garage build and a big boy lift. I have lifting guides for cars going back into the 90s. Thats still just a few decades too new. Should we use the pinch welds on the 69 mustangs? Or torque boxes? I did not see a great spot to pick up the back end of the car for when I want to pull the leaf springs.

My car has an edelbrock carb with an electric choke that was never hooked up. And a 1-wire alternator, so I couldn't just wire it to the usual post on the back of the alternator. :( I finally ordered one of those dual port oil pressure extensions and it came in today. I have the usual big pressure sending unit for the gauge, and now a smaller on/off switch. When the engine is running, the oil pressure switch closes a circuit and now my choke works. Its the orange wires here.

I have a 351w in one of my other cars. And when I finally blow up this 302, it'll get replaced with a 351w. :D I do like this CVF bracket and pulley kit. It says it works on both 302 and 351. I'll go beat up on it a bit. If it holds up well, I will use it again on my other motors.