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potato last won the day on May 18

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  1. When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction. I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job. Take off your fenders. Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4. This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around. Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches. Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4. This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points. I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in. Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day. And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds. 30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones. I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job. I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
  2. I ended up laying a blob of weld down to help stick that bracket to my frame. And my alignment guy wasn't quite able to get my car dialed in. The tie rods ran out of adjustment and couldn't be made short enough. I took the car back home, pulled the tie rods in half. And then lopped off an inch out of the threads and put them back together. The alignment guy was able to get everything dialed in pretty good. Everything ended up in the green and he got it better than some of the much newer cars that come in. Apparently the numbers indicate that my frame's really straight and it hasn't been in any bad wrecks to knock anything out over the years.
  3. I got an unexpected surprise this morning. I drove the car to the alignment shop. Then when the dude's in the parking lot turning the steering wheel to get the car lined up to go on the rack, there was a POP. We looked under the car and found half of a bolt broken off. It was this bracket pictured below in the orange circle. The blue bolt is the one that broke in two. The two green bolts just pulled right out like they were not even attached to the frame at all. This section of the frame is boxed in pretty well, so I dont even see how to get a nut and washer up inside the frame there to tighten those bolts against. Am I missing something obvious? Only other thing I can think of is to weld the nuts up into the frame to bolt to, or to just weld the whole bracket to the frame.
  4. Whew, I got it off the jackstands and back on the road today. I started out by putting in some 3pt seat belts. Then the UPS man brought me the last piece I needed to button up my new fuel line. While it was up in the air, I let it run and get up to temperature and played with the steering wheel to check for leaks. Everything looked good so I dropped it down and took it for a spin around the block and up to the gas station.
  5. Today's after work project was replacing the motor mounts. It was a pain in the butt working in tight quarters, but really only a couple hours of cussing like a sailor.
  6. Progress continues, slowly. I got the driver's side back together. My power steering cylinder mounting stud was junk, so I ordered a new Lares cylinder. So far, the running count is upper+lower control arms, ball joints, inner+outer tie rods, center link, slave cylinder, shocks. Then up top, replacing the fuel line between the pump and carb with a hard line. The threaded portion of the fuel pump was wallered out a bit. The fuel line wouldn't seal up and had a drip while running. So now i got a new fuel pump on it. With the front end all put back together, its almost ready to get back on the road.
  7. I haven't ordered any yet. They got bumped down the list a bit since i got these temporarily mercury ones. I'm going to focus on the stuff the car needs to run and drive safely. The wheels i would like to get for this are the legendary 17x7 or 17x8 cobra style ones in gray.
  8. The saga continues. I got the passenger side put together. New tie rods, upper and lower control arms, shocks, center link, and idler arm. I got most of the driver's side taken apart. While I was up under there, it looks like a need a new power steering cylinder. And the fuel line from the pump to the carb is leaking. So new power steering cylinder and fuel line are incoming. With the total control bumpsteer eliminator kit, I was able to get the passenger side to 0.100" of bump steer as the suspension travels from ride height to fully compressed. There wasn't enough adjustment to get any better than that.
  9. The tbird is in pretty decent shape. It just turns out its a little too nice and "rare" for me. It has so many options. On paper, it checks a lot of cool boxes. In reality, its a lot more to maintain and a lot of parts that are hard to find replacements for. 50yr old switches and relays that you can't easily replace. Arm rests on the doors crack and new ones run $350 per side. I'd rather have the mustang that has better aftermarket support. The tbird is a cool cruiser. Very smooth ride and super yuuuuuge trunk. I just want something more roudy and raw.
  10. My car is a 69 coupe with a 9T01T VIN number. Paperwork in the glovebox and the inspection stickers on the windows show it was last on the road legally in 2016. The stack of paperwork that came with the car indicates it was somebody else's project car back in 2012-2013. They swapped it to a 302/T5 transmission, granada front discs, 96 mustang rear axle with 3.55 gears and discs, some sheet metal. They did the interior with carpet, door panels, and upholstry. The body is in good shape. Its not banged up anywhere and the only rust is in the trunk lid. It needed some work on the front end when I got it. I knew it needed tie rods, so I ordered a set of the total control bump steer eliminator tie rods. Then when I get it home and get it up in the air, thats when it started snowballing. The left shock was completely broken. The top and the bottom of the shock are 2 unconnected pieces. The ball joints are also looking rough. So then I'm thinking fine, I'll order new shocks and control arms. Then I get to taking apart the passenger side and I see the steering link is very loose at the idler arm. Fine, I walk in the house and order up an idler arm. The next day I start putting the passenger side together and then I notice some welds where they're not supposed to be. Somebody has welded the castle nut onto the steering link at the idler arm. So now I get to order the steering link. While I've been waiting for the front end to get delivered one part at a time, I've been working on other little things. Fixing the door lock rods, latches, and locks. Replace missing PCV hose, replace fuel line and fuel filter, air filter, and oil change. The car came with 19" rims with tires that were worn through to the steel belts. I'm not a fan of the rims, so they're getting replaced. The rims I picked to replace them are backordered for months. So I went to the local pull-a-part and found some 90s grand marquis "snowflake" style wheels for $100 for the set and cleaned them up a bit to hold me over. Something I'm not clear on is what to do with yet is my choke. There's an edlebroke 4 barrel carb with electric choke. The choke is not connected to anything. I looked at the wiring diagrams for 1969 cars and did not see a wire to use. On my 73 mustang, there's a wire on the engine harness beside the oil pressure and water temp that is hot when the key's on. If there is the same wire on the 69 model, is it suitable to connect to the electric choke? It looks like the previous owner converted this car to a 1-wire alternator. There isn't a post on the alternator to connect to. Still on my to-do list door windows are a little wobbly. maybe need to replace plastic guides rear package tray was wet after rain. maybe need to pull the rear window and install it and seal it up properly tail lights are kinda nasty looking. maybe replace them only 1 of my hood mounted blinkers works there's some gremlins in the wiring for the interior of the car aftermarket AC. something like vintage air or classicauto air I would like to convert the interior to the "deluxe" door panels and I like the idea of the aftermarket dash that kinda looks original but has more gauges power steering hose routing looks like spaghetti. replace engine mounts. One of them is completely separated figure out the choke.
  11. Yeah, this car's probably not gonna get a $15k+ motor in it. Not unless somebody comes knocking on the door letting me know my long lost rich uncle has died. The realistic options for this car are either the stock 429 out in the driveway or some windor motor that costs me around the same. I figure pulling the 429 to use here will cost me about $5k by turning my complete running tbird i could sell into a roller. Prices at the local engine shop for a complete dyno tested windsor with a warranty is $5k for 325hp and $6k for 400hp. With a windsor, i can reuse my existing headers and engine accessories. The front of the car is already swapped to granada disc brakes and the back has a complete 96 mustang axle with 3.55 gears and disc brakes. Transmission is a curently T5 which would probably get replaced with a tremec if i got too much more torque under the hood.
  12. I've got the 69 mustang coupe, nothing special, out in the driveway. Previous owner put a 302 in place of the inline 6. There's nothing wrong with the 302 thats in it, that I know of. Problem is, I've got a 69 tbird sitting out in the driveway with the 429 thunderjet. Under the hood, it looks almost bone stock. This is pretty much the basic plain Jane 429. I keep hearing something from the driveway calling me to yank this puppy out and drop it in the mustang. It sounds like Tim the toolman Taylor's voice whispering "no replacement... for..... displacement". Does the 429 in this form have anything over a stock 302 or 351w with an intake and headers on it? And is it enough to make you want to snatch the motor out and shoehorn it into the mustang? Is there any cool factor to having the '69 429 in the car? Or would you just stick with the small block and maybe jazz it up?
  13. Awesome. And you didn't need to run any spacers?
  14. My car has '75 granada spindles and discs up front. I'm trying to figure out the size rims to order. My 16x8 with 4.5" backspacing will rub on the upper control arms when the wheels are turned too far in either direction. I'm looking at some 15x7 and 17x8, both with 4.25" backspacing. Can somebody offer any input as to these size wheels with granaga spindles. Bonus points for pictures showing how close the wheel and tire will get to the upper control arms while turning.
  15. When I was 17 and poor, my first car was a '72 maverick/comet mutt. That was the poor man's mustang fastback. Mine had the factory non-functional hood scoop. Looks like there are folks out there sticking fake side scoops and mustang badges on them. :D
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