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potato

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potato last won the day on May 18

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  1. Good info. Is your picture a 1970 door? I see it has the longer style of handle bracket installed. The photo above yours has the shorter style.
  2. Thanks. That helps for some of the parts. I see the part 240A10. Looks like there is a reproduction part with that exact part number, and the longer one they say is 240A10-B. They appear to have the mounting holes in different relation to each other, so it should hopefully be easy to hold the panel up to the door and verify which one will fit. There are some details not shown still like the lock knob grommets and the black trim pieces that go behind the handle. https://www.cjponyparts.com/deluxe-door-handle-trim-plate-pair-1969-1970/p/DPDT-V/
  3. My front door panels arrived today. I could use some input on what all I'll need to get these installed in the car that was originally basic interior. It looks like the plastic door handle cups are cracked on both. Then I think there's a bracket and some screws that I'll need to attach the door cup to the door itself? And some sort of little black filler panel that goes behind the door handle. Does anybody have a link to purchase some of these parts? I see 2 completely different versions of the armrest mounting brackets available online. My passenger side looks like it also could use the little chrome grommet for the lock knob. And maybe I'll try my hand at one of those vinyl repair kits on the couple of splits in it.
  4. Do you happen to know the name or website for this company?
  5. My car has no tach. I would like have one. Under the hood, its got a HEI distributor with a 1-wire alternator. I say all that in case that affects my options. If possible, I'd like to stick with the factory style gauges. But if I'm understanding correctly, the printed circuit is different as well as some of the pin locations in the big connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster. Maybe the easiest option is the ugliest one. Get an aftermarket standalone tach that clamps to the steering column in front of the other gauges. I have seen the Dakota Digital and VintageUSA gauge kits. Neither one of them look like they are plug and play. The dakota digital one looks like a 1-size-fits-every-car brain box they use and then you have to pluck apart your wiring harness to jumper to the dakota digital box, and when you're done, you still have things that don't interface together. Like requiring a separate pot to dim the dash. The VintageUSA kits also look like they are not plug-and-play. It does look like maybe they end up using the existing dash lighting, so the existing dimmer would work on them. However, the turn signals and bright light indicator look like an after thought. I see some dashes with holes for 6 gauges. I'm not clear on whether or not these even have turn signals and bright light indicators. https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-instruments-6-gauge-set-velocity-series-with-scott-drake-wood-grain-6-hole-instrument-bezel-1969-1970/p/CIVB1KW-V/ Is there something obvious I overlooked? Is there an easy way to convert the non-tach car to the factory tach style setup? And if so, will that work with an HEI distributor? I have a "tach out" terminal available. Otherwise, are there any aftermarket gauges that are more plug and play?
  6. The best advice i can muster up is get a car you're not afraid to work on and learn on. If your mustang is too nice, you can be intimidated by it. Get yourself something more ugly or more basic so you aren't afraid to wrench on it. From there, just start learning how each of the systems work. Brakes, fuel delivery, power steering, cooling, spark/ignition, electrical/charging, etc. Every part of the car has a purpose. And once you understand the purpose, you can understand what happens when that part is broken or acting up.
  7. What year ford ranger? Cause there tons of them at the local pull-a-part yards.
  8. My first guess was put the doors in the door holes and see if you can tell how your body panels need to close up together to fit better. That may be hard with your brace right there in the door opening. My next guess is make something that perfectly fits the door opening of your old car shell. Thats assuming your car door still fits in the opening of the old car. Based off some of your other pictures, you're a bit of a welder. I say use some scrap of angle iron or steel bars and weld up and catch some reference points on all sides of the door opening. Then take that over to your new car where you're fitting your panels together. Use it to help decide what needs to move where. If you're feeling crazy, start tacking the body panels directly to the jig. :P I suppose you could take that idea further. Build a little skeleton inside your old car (that can be disassembled and reassembled in the new car). Make some features that come off the skeleton and come to certain reference points in the body. This lets you copy the old car to the new car by making sure a bunch of points are all held properly in relation to each other.
  9. Ive got 3:50 rear with a T5 in my car. It'll do 60 no problem. But highway speeds around here is 80mph. Around town, everybody does 60 on every road. I find 3.50 gears to be too much. I'd rather have closer to 3.0. Definitely would want anything more than 3.50 for a cruiser car.
  10. It seems like there's a cheaper way to ship them there. Even if a member here ordered you the bolts and mailed them. Cjpony is probably using FedEx or something and their quote is insane. The threaded portion of the shoulder belt bolts its about 1.5". But the hole in the roof they thread into is not that long. So in reality, probably half of the threads on the bolt do nothing.
  11. From the roof to the tail light panel, on a fastback its a big sheet of glass and then a tiny little trunk lid. From the roof to the tail light panel on a coupe, the back glass drops down and then the body shoots back and there's a lot longer space for a larger trunk lid. The trunk is probably the same size for coupe and fastback, but the trunk opening for the fastback is smaller. I imagine the models with fold down back seats, that may take up some of your trunk space.
  12. The tbird still manages to 1-up even the grande coupe interior. Bigger back seat with room for full sized adults instead of 5yr old kids, wrap around back seat so you could be comfortable while getting fresh with your girlfriend, I think 3 separate ash trays in the back so your kids could smoke, interior lights in the back, and the trunk is stupid huge compared to even the coupe mustang. When I go to the shooting range, I use a jogging stroller to carry my stuff. None of my old cars can fit the jogging stroller in the trunk except the tbird. On my fastback, it wont even fit through the tiny door. On my coupe, it will fit in the door, but its too wide to allow the trunk to close. In the tbird, the stroller fits with tons of room to spare.
  13. I just like the look of the woodgrain stuff. I dont think my current interior has the little recess for the walnut and chrome inserts like on the back seat of this one. I found the wood inserts on ebay, but not the panel itself to mount them to.
  14. I would like to upgrade the interior in my coupe. It currently has standard. I like the look of the woodgrain. Assuming I get my hands on the deluxe left and right side dash, door panels, and rear side trim panels, will those just bolt right in place of the standard interior? I see the door panels and dash seem to be readily available. Is there a place to get the rear panels and armrests?
  15. Digging up an old thread... Its about time to replace the gauges in my car. Every time I look at it, it seems something else breaks. Mine's a non-tach car. Transmission is a T-5, which I believe should be compatible with their electronic speed sending unit. My distributor is HEI with a terminal marked "tach". Did this thread ever arrive at a handy list of what wires plug in to which terminals on the dakota digital brain box? And which terminals we don't use? Spending that much for a dash, I would like to be able to get as much functionality out of it as possible, having it interface with as much of the factor stuff as I can. For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?
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