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shelbyshelby

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About shelbyshelby

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 07/07/1972

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  • Occupation
    Law Enforcement

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  1. I’m in southern ky and looking to purchase a 351 block or engine. I prefer either the 1969-74 or maybe the 94-97 block or complete engine. I can travel some to pick it up. Let me know if you have anything available.
  2. After I broke a few tips off those Rubber plugs by pushing them in, I used a piece of the inner thread of paracord to pull the rubber tip thru instead of pushing with tools. I just tied the string onto the tip and soaped it and the came right thru.
  3. I would call or email them, that looks like a generic stock photo to me. I have some on the front of my car from there that came as 1 piece rotors.
  4. Well I think both of my doors are original to my January 1969 built car. The drivers door should at a minimum be the original latch, least it had the original door tag in place with tight rivits. Also I ordered them for a 69, so i assume they are correct. Both sides were worn or shrunk maybe. I’ll post a pic later as I’m away at work. I can try to describe the location. If looking at your latch mechanism on the door side, where the latch grabs the striker. Look behind the latch (fingers that grab the striker), it should be right behind it nestled in the small area behind it. The only thing that holds it in is a single rubber tit on the end that sticks out of the latch. Simple install, a smallish straight screw driver pries out the old one. Hope I don’t confuse anybody. Pics coming in a few hours.
  5. To start with, I want to say I appreciate the sincerity of the folks on this forum. I get the vibe that the 69Stang family is here to help others. I can read sarcasm and get advice from other forums but prefer to come to 69Stang for information and good reads. So I’d like to contribute in a small way. I have been slowly restoring my 69 from a total disassembly. It’s always had this hesitation for the doors to pop open when the button is pushed. Even after thorough cleaning and lubing them. I always figured some of pop came from the rubber door seals. I saw a rubber bumper in the back of the door latch that looked worn, light bulb went off that piece may help pop the door. I guess before I thought it was a merely a door slam bumper. Sure enough I installed new ones from npd. Pretty simple to put in and now both doors pop open with authority even without the rubber seals installed (currently getting ready for paint). Pic shows the difference in the worn and the new bumper.
  6. Any chance any of those metal ones are oem? The repo’s won’t fit the floor pans tapered area on my car. They are 3/8-1/2” too wide, requiring a floor pan mod. This is reason I ask.
  7. I need just 1 drain plug if anybody has just 1 nice one they could spare. Need this so I can put down some carpet and sound deadner. I need several screws also but can order those. The repo plugs don’t fit or look like oem. I’ll gladly pay you for the part and shipping to 42518 Ky with PayPal or however you’d like payment. Thanks for considering.
  8. I need 1 floor drain plug if you have a nice one and don’t care to ship it to me
  9. Might help as reference, I’m adding a picture of the legendary magnum 500. It is 17x8. Iirc it’s 4.5 back space. I needed a roller and had some good used 235/55-17. It’s on an unfinished car so I’m hoping the body will squat some after assembly. This tire is 27 in diameter.
  10. Fabbing some spacers from 1” square tubing to go between the seat and the tracks comes to mind. Never seen it done though. Most complaints from sportsroof owners involve lowering the seats for headroom and leg room under the steering wheel. Do you have access to a mig welder?
  11. I didn’t find a new one when mine broke, though you can several company’s that sell similar springs new. For me I never found the exact one. Something was always different, leg length, wound backward etc. I was meandering in a junk yard and noticed a F150 from the 70’s had a nearly the same latch assembly. They charged me $5. It was an easy fix. Required welding the washer back on.
  12. Mostly what I have read is the air shocks folks used in the day caused cracking in this area. From my experience though it’s usually the top layer of metal where the shocks rubber plugs mount. So I’m thinking it’s more to do with unibody flex rather than air shocks. I’ve seen more than a few drag cars both coupe and Sports roofs with cracks around the rear window area. I think the back half of these unibody cars are taking a beating when used any other way except a 230 hp daily driver. This is just another opinion of course.
  13. I’d recommend to roll the pushrods on glass as you remove them. It’s fairly common to find them not straight which changes the lash.
  14. I’ve had that before on an older street driven Holley. Could try wiggling the the throttle shaft whiles it’s whistling, to see if it changes. Likely the front 2 barrels.
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