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About shelbyshelby

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 07/07/1972


  • Occupation
    Law Enforcement

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  1. It’s going to be a touring engine at first, so the manifolds will be fine. It may grow on me to put headers on later. I have another mustang (68 coupe)that’s performance oriented that I restored in the late 80’s.
  2. Late to respond but yes I did find a 351w. 94 roller block. Got it machined, balanced and ready to assemble with D0 heads. Only things I lack is better C9 exhaust manifolds than I have and valve covers but I’ve not decided which VC I’d want.
  3. I’m about to finish restoring a 69 deluxe console. I have a couple of question about the hardware that secures the upper. The rear two screws that go down thru the seatbelt holder, what type screw does it use/finish. I see this hardware kit and it has 2 black sheet metal screws in it. I’m thinking it’s for those screws but not sure. Is any other hardware used underneath with the holes in the metal crossmember? Mine does appear to ever had screws thru it. Also the screws in the top front that secures the wiring harness, what type hardware goes there? Thanks for any insight......Jeff
  4. Just wanted to update my experience with acc carpet. I bought the raylon mass backed black w/red insert Mach 1 carpet. It laid in near perfectly straight from the box. I used dynamat extreme, then 1/4” dynaliner and finally the acc mass backed carpet. Full coverage on both dyna products. Both dyna products stacked to 3/8” and didn’t seem to aggravate the way the carpet lays. It seems to me like it’s density is the same as my original 68 carpet. I’ve yet to have it outside in good light yet though. The only complaint I have and yet undecided if I’ll try to resolve, is the passenger rear red insert is sewn in crooked. If I knew the black period floor mats would hide it, I might leave it be but would bother me somewhat just knowing it ain’t right. It’s not a little bit crooked either. Best I can measure, it’s over an inch out of square :( slightly noticeable in the bottom picture but my pics doesn’t show how bad it is.
  5. Thank you gentlemen. I ended up ordering the red inserts with mass backed. From internet studies your knowledge seems all 69’s Mach’s came with red inserts no matter the exterior color. One last question. Does the period mustang floor mats cover the red color inserts or is red floor mats more correct for a black interior/black jade mach1.
  6. I have a 69 Mach 1. It’s coded C5 exterior as black jade. The interior code is 3A. All I can find online says black high back Mach 1 seats, which I have with a red stripe. Does anybody have a book or document to confirm the correct carpet would have 4 red inserts? Along with the red stripe in the seats? Seems like an un-matching combo. I want it to look correct if that is indeed the way Ford built it. Black jade exterior, black mach1 seats with red stripes and black carpet with 4 red inserts? Is ACC w/mass backed the best available?
  7. I’m in southern ky and looking to purchase a 351 block or engine. I prefer either the 1969-74 or maybe the 94-97 block or complete engine. I can travel some to pick it up. Let me know if you have anything available.
  8. After I broke a few tips off those Rubber plugs by pushing them in, I used a piece of the inner thread of paracord to pull the rubber tip thru instead of pushing with tools. I just tied the string onto the tip and soaped it and the came right thru.
  9. I would call or email them, that looks like a generic stock photo to me. I have some on the front of my car from there that came as 1 piece rotors.
  10. Well I think both of my doors are original to my January 1969 built car. The drivers door should at a minimum be the original latch, least it had the original door tag in place with tight rivits. Also I ordered them for a 69, so i assume they are correct. Both sides were worn or shrunk maybe. I’ll post a pic later as I’m away at work. I can try to describe the location. If looking at your latch mechanism on the door side, where the latch grabs the striker. Look behind the latch (fingers that grab the striker), it should be right behind it nestled in the small area behind it. The only thing that holds it in is a single rubber tit on the end that sticks out of the latch. Simple install, a smallish straight screw driver pries out the old one. Hope I don’t confuse anybody. Pics coming in a few hours.
  11. To start with, I want to say I appreciate the sincerity of the folks on this forum. I get the vibe that the 69Stang family is here to help others. I can read sarcasm and get advice from other forums but prefer to come to 69Stang for information and good reads. So I’d like to contribute in a small way. I have been slowly restoring my 69 from a total disassembly. It’s always had this hesitation for the doors to pop open when the button is pushed. Even after thorough cleaning and lubing them. I always figured some of pop came from the rubber door seals. I saw a rubber bumper in the back of the door latch that looked worn, light bulb went off that piece may help pop the door. I guess before I thought it was a merely a door slam bumper. Sure enough I installed new ones from npd. Pretty simple to put in and now both doors pop open with authority even without the rubber seals installed (currently getting ready for paint). Pic shows the difference in the worn and the new bumper.
  12. Any chance any of those metal ones are oem? The repo’s won’t fit the floor pans tapered area on my car. They are 3/8-1/2” too wide, requiring a floor pan mod. This is reason I ask.
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