shelbyshelby

Just checking if the ac lower dash is available/condition? I’m in southern ky so I could possibly commute to pick up.

It’s the whole metal portion of the lower dash that I’m interested in. I think I can see this car has it uninstalled and laying in the floor. Does the cable feel smooth? From a V8 car?

Could also use an oem throttle cable if you have a decent one. My new plastic one feels awful.

I need a 69 ac lower dash. Looks like it’s uninstalled and laying in the floor. I’m in southern ky.

I like your settings, especially the zero camber. I’ve had up to 1.5 degrees camber and it just don’t feel good to me. I do like total toe at 1/8” better than 1/16” tire wear may suffer a tad though but they drive better imo at 1/8”. I’d like to see what others are running and satisfied with.

I had a 1970 tbird with a 429 and an oem Saginaw pump. Any chance those would fit?

I feel everyone will have different success stories. I started out trying to use the contact cement they sell as “headliner glue”. It dried hard as a rock and didn’t allow repositioning. I switched to 3M black weatherstripping glue and could reposition, even 2 weeks later. Being an amateur headliner installer, I couldn’t install in a day so it saved me. My method was get it tight/wrinkle free front/back, side to side and then do each corner. Mine turned out perfect but I was nearly 3 weeks doing it, readjusting to keep wrinkles out. Take pics of the screw holes before covering them up. I used big office clamps to hold mine, quick 1 hand operation. I used Dynamat and Dynaliner on the roof. I bought the tmi headliner which I thought was good quality. I also bought the tmi sail panels, disaster waiting to happen. Mine were flat, which pulled the clip from the backside when I bowed them in for the install. I ended up unsatisfied with the install and found ridgerunner on here that sells hand made fiberglass units that have the texture built in. They fit perfect and installed in 10 minutes. Also note which holes each bow comes out of. Mine had an upper and lower hole.

So I’ve been struggling to manipulate my hood pin cables to prevent wear on my fresh hood blackout. It’s not on the road yet but thinking about preventing damage here. I saw a survivor Mach 1 on eBay today. Its hood pins slide out the front. I have mine oriented where they slide out to the side. Which was is correct? Do you think either way would be better or worse? I’ve never gave it any thought til I saw it on this survivor car.

I’m not aware of any in the catalogs. A guy named midlife may be able to help. Would a good used one suffice?

Thank you for the compliments fella’s. I’ve spent 12 years on it so far. My career has had me busy so I didn’t get to work on it as much as I wanted. But it’s almost done. Door panels and front end alignment is all I like. I used this sites search button to help me a lot thru the restoration. It’s been my dream since I was 5 years old. I never gave up.

Thanks ridge. I ended up installing without painting it. It was shiny aluminum after stripping the paint but I think the anodizing stayed on.

Finished my hood details. Turned out ok. Couple things to watch out for. 1) the stencil adhesive stayed wet for like 3 hours in my 75 degree garage. I used a few drops of soap in my spray bottle. I wouldn’t use soap the next time. Id say the 3 hours is a good thing for lining up the 7 piece stencil. The gotcha is if you stretch it during lining up, you’ll come back after drying and a small gap in butt ends. Here’s a few pics. It’s plenty nice for me. Now I wish I could figure out how to keep the cables on the hood pins without damaging the new blackout when it gets roadworthy. If anyone wants to know, I used 2 coats of Sem 2k hot rod black.

I’m currently assembling my hood scoop on the Mach 1. The grille insert had green paint on it so I stripped it. Under the green paint had a layer of silver. Is the silver factory or did it come in a natural finish? Wonder if the silver is argent if that’s the original finish?

Rick at NPD confirmed today that the adhesive on their decal uses soap/water to apply them wet. You can adjust them until they dry. I will attempt to use my stencil in the next day or two.

I got my stencil from npd. It looks fine. It didn’t come with any instructions. Feels like I'm an amateur needing instructions for a sticker. Im debating using fine tape or the stencil. I think the stencil may be more accurate. I just don’t know if I can wet it with soap and water to apply and move around or not. Also if there’s do’s or don’t using them. Another curiosity is if the stencils have extra material, will overlaying the butt ends cause any issues. I will pm Rick from vmf if I can’t find the answers or bravery to commit to peeling the stencil.