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About shelbyshelby

  • Rank
    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday 07/07/1972


  • Occupation
    Law Enforcement

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  1. I’d recommend to roll the pushrods on glass as you remove them. It’s fairly common to find them not straight which changes the lash.
  2. I’ve had that before on an older street driven Holley. Could try wiggling the the throttle shaft whiles it’s whistling, to see if it changes. Likely the front 2 barrels.
  3. From my understanding the GL5 oil is more slippery than the GL4. Thus not letting the tapered part of the synchro grab the gear and speed it up to make a grind free shift. I think the GL5 will cause shifting issues but I can’t be certain, I’ve always used the GL4. I have the sta lube in one toploader at the moment it’s never had an issue.
  4. I don’t have any pics of mine but I’m pretty sure the harness you speak of goes on the drivers side of the bracket. It also has a good sized plastic shield wrapped around it , right at the bracket and bolts to it with 2 bolts iirc. That’s a stolen pic from the web
  5. You mentioned “when shifted into neutral”. It doesn’t have a neutral feature, it’s only for reverse lights. Only the automatics had the neutral safety feature. If the trans is in reverse in your pics, I think I might try just putting a vacuum cap or similar piece over button that would effectively make the button a little longer and maybe turn the reverse lights on. Also, it seems like I remember maybe the 1st 3rd shifter stops can be adjusted to deep into shifter causing reverse to not fully shift. Just throwing out a couple ideas to check.
  6. I have 2 of these clocks, both have the white second hand. That’s not to imply they’re all like that. Maybe somebody with more intel will be able to confirm one way or the other.
  7. Wanted update this thread in case it’d help anybody in the future. I have 3 sets of deluxe door panels. Only my original door panels line up to the lower holes. So the intel must be correct about the original installer using an awl to drive the holes at random is at least plausible. I’m guessing that’s why the new door panels aren’t pre-drilled in the lower location.
  8. Per casyrhe’s experience with no predrilled holes, in 2 different brand panels, I’m going to wait til later to do the lower holes. I’ll finish my door skin for now and do the lower holes after paint, when new panels are bought. Thanks casey
  9. I can see that being a + in a way caseyrhe. Especially if the doors were just randomly punched with an awl from ford. Did you drill all new holes panel/door or manage somehow to get the new panels drilled close enough to reuse the prior holes in the metal door shell?
  10. Couple of questions regarding prep for a door. Preparing a door shell for epoxy before putting on a new skin and want to get all the prep before epoxy or indtalling my nos skin. One of my last areas of concern is this weather strip area. Wondering if the wavy metal needs to be straightened some to install the rubber later or if the rubber installs, leaving the strip as is? Also, I’m converting this standard shell to deluxe. In so, notice the standard shell I’m prepping doesn’t have screw holes at the doors bottom for the deluxe door panel. Curious if those who have bought new door panels, if the new panels line up with existing door shell holes? Got some advice on vmf to use an awl to replicate these concave screw holes, any advice/tips on when or how to do this? I’m favoring using my old door panel to position the lower deluxe panel attaching screws so I can do it before the new skin goes on. Thanks for sharing any tips that may help me....Jeff
  11. What seems to be better mig the seam shut and grind it flush or braze it back? Anybody have a pic of the seam mig’d shut?
  12. Speaking of the deck lid, where the tail panel meets quarter extension, where the deck lid gasket would lay if the lid is closed, mine had brazing in there. Is that something ford did or a previous owner? Looking at mike65’s pic, it would be about where his welding cable is laying
  13. What Barnett said. My experience from the by gone days, were the upper control arm shafts drying up. That’s why these cars often got holes torched in the shock towers to install grease fittings there or else the shaft would get tight, then the shock tower stress cracked all to pieces. Putting new parts on is the best way to maintain the mustangs, but money was tougher to get back then I suppose.
  14. I’ve noticed the wheels arent really centered in my 69’s rear wheel wells, both sides. New leaf springs, u-bolts and tie bolts, original 9”. I’ve looked online a bunch and notice some 69’s are similar to mine and some seem to be better centered but it’s tough to get the right pictures to compare. Anyhow, grendi just posted a pic of his on his window trim post. His looks to be like mine. I’m not sure if this is designed that way or a problem exists. Here’s grendi’s pic of his, hope you are ok with TBUT of the pics grendi, to further the hobby. With yours being off on one side, makes me think yours may have a problem. Maybe one side is in the wrong spring perch hole.
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