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Rsanter

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Rsanter last won the day on November 15 2017

Rsanter had the most liked content!

About Rsanter

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 06/01/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Visalia CA
  • Interests
    Ummmmm......Mustangs?

Converted

  • Biography
    I have had 84 mustangs over the years
  • Location
    Visalia ca
  • Interests
    Mustangs, Lionel trains, tools, woodworking, metal fabrication
  • Occupation
    Engineer
  1. That is not enough space heat wise. I would be very afraid of heat damaging the box as some point. ifmit was me I think I would slightly dent the headers and then install a header wrap in that area to insulate heat from getting to that box too much
  2. power brake booster recommendation

    I don’t recall but I got it from summit and it was specified as being for the 69 Mustang application. Through my research I found that it is basically the booster model as used on the boss429 but not concourse correct. I also opted for the full Crome just because. i originally was keeping the stock one but the willwood would not fit between that and the tower so I found the tuff stuff one was shorter and gave it a try. it was reasonable priced and it has a good fit and feel to it. the side bonus is that it makes it easier to work in that area due to the smaller dimension
  3. Quick Brake Question - Rear Disk

    You need to change it with an adjustable one so,you can dial it in
  4. power brake booster recommendation

    On my 69 I am running a booster from TuffStuff. I went that way because I wanted to use a willwood MC and it was interfering with the tower. The tuffstuff booster is basically the same one used for the boss 429 just not concourse correct. feels the same as the original booster and works great. Bought from summit and was cheaper than getting a rebuilt exchange unit
  5. door hinge

    The replacement bushing and pins are easy to replace unless the stamped part is bad I would rebuild what I had. i did that with my 69 no problem
  6. 351w rebuild decisions.

    How about just order a stroker 351 short block and go from there. keep the original block as once you part with it you can’t go back
  7. Is this dimension correct?

    I understand what you are saying and I have seen lots of the small block towers that seem to me bulging a little in the center and causing the gap you mention. do you want to keep a stock look? Of you do I use a porta power to push the piece back and remove the gap then stitch weld the back side. if you do not care about original looks then I would use a porta power and weld then in place on the engine compartment side add the trans am brace on the inside and you are good to go
  8. Clearance issue with drag link and oil pan.

    Seems like the wrong oil pan, pictures?
  9. Best carbureter for stock 302

    You can also look at ponycarbs to see how much they want they are really easy to rebuild, I have a spare I can send to you for $135 shipped
  10. Best carbureter for stock 302

    How about a ford 4100 carb. That’s is what I have on my 69 right now
  11. Spare & Jack Kit in trunk ...

    Hit a wrecking yard lots of modern jacks there to choose from and ods are some will work great
  12. Anyone here in Ireland?

    I getting ready to head there on vacation. Is there any recommendations of things I must see? I am planning to go to the whiskey museaum and take a couple walking tours but was wondering if any of you had some insight as to cool things a machine and car guy would like
  13. Garage Art

    This is an older picture. I have more on the wall now. what I have been wanting to do,is hang a bunch of my intakes on the wall. I have designed a bracket in my head that would,hold them and guarantee they can’t fall but I haven’t had a chance to make it yet
  14. New Engine Build

    I had an engine that was rebuilt, ran for about 20k miles and then sat for about 15 years. the water rusted the passages and gunked then up but good i removed the intake and the freeze plugs and dug as much cramp out as I could and then hit it with the pressure washer. Tons of crap came out. put it all back together and I was constantly getting the water in the cooling system turn to rusty solar immediately. i changed the water several times and even tried the off the shelf flushes. Did not do as well as I would have liked. i ended up putting some oxolic acid mix in the system several times and it has cleaned it up a bunch. i also put a filter in the upper hose and it was constantly catching little flakes
  15. brake distribution block help

    What it looks like you have there is the typical drum/drum dist block. if you want to do it the easy way you can remove the line going to the rear brakes. Install a short hardline that will go to the inlet port of an adjustable prop valve. These can be had from summit racing for reasonable cost. then connect the exsisting hard line to the rear brakes to the output of the adjustable prop valve.
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