Mountaineerfan

So I was able to adjust the frame mount (I loosened the three bolts on the side with the new cylinder, and shook the frame side to side) so that now the top is even left/right with the front windshield when up (not latched). I'm still having trouble getting it to come forward enough. My door glass is aligned, and their is a gap between the quarter and the weatherstripping, and I have to pull down and forward HARD at the Number 2 bow joint just to get the hooks to engage. When I say hard, it's like doing a pull-up, and I'm a big guy... Since working on this last night, I'm going to see if the weatherstripping needs trimmed or adjusted. The body shop installed it back in August, so they nay not have gotten it just right, especially now that the windows are adjusted.

Got my vert back from the shop a couple of months ago. They replaced one of the cylinders, and now the top doesn't seem to want to come forward enough to latch. I had to adjust out the hooks a LONG way to latch it, and it seems crooked now. It appears to me that the side with the new cylinder needs to extend forward just a bit more. Is there an adjustment to the cylinder mount that can be made? I haven't taken the back seat out yet to look. Thanks for this post, OP!

New plugs and wires, and straightened up the cabling a little. Looking better!

Solved the leak issue with the low/reverse servo! I had trapped a random wire in the cover when I tightened it (up top, where I couldn't see), so when I removed the wire and retightened the cover, it held fluid and pressure! Took it for a 5 mile test drive, and love the car again!! IMG_2043.MOV

I have a feeling that's what I'll end up doing, but I really like these red ones.... :)

The title pretty much says it all! I have a 302 with the Autolite distributor. Got some fancy new plug wires to spruce up the engine a bit. I bought them at Summit here in Atlanta. The problem is the plug wires are for a male post-type distributor. I did not realize this until I got home. There is no. way. I am going to drive back through the city to return them! Traffic is a nightmare! So is there a replacement cap I can order with possibly an adapter to convert my female cap to a male cap? I do not have the money to straight out purchase a new distributor. Anyone done this? Thanks!

So I recently pulled my transmission for some work. This is the original C4 that came with the 69 vert. It has been redone within the past 6 years, so there wasn't much I needed to do with it. I changed the servos, installed a shift kit, inspected and reinstalled the tranny. I currently have a major leak around the low/reverse servo cover. It seems to be coming from the top of the cover. I removed the cover yesterday and installed a new seal, reinstalled the cover, and still have a leak (albeit a slightly smaller one!). I've heard that using Loctite 518 around the seal and bolt holes will do wonders to cure this. Have any of you tried this before? I had pulled the tranny because it was having trouble going into reverse, and would not go into 1st gear. The install went well, and I even backed it out of the garage, which is when my son noticed the large amount of fluid coming out from under the car! :) Thanks!

Removed the C4 transmission (it had trouble going into reverse, and would not start in 1st). I had done all of the on-car adjustments I could, and decided to just pull it to see if I needed new bands or anything. So far it looks clean inside, but the fluid smelled burnt and was dark. Bands look good, and I put a B&M kit on the valve body since I had it out. I'm planning on checking the governor, and changing the reverse servo and changing the A servo to an R. I've never done this before, and I wish there was a way to test it on the bench before installing!

Had the day off yesterday, so my son and I spent the day getting the car on the road! This is the vert that we just received back from the paint shop, and so have been putting it back together. Today we installed 4 new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. Got them from Rock Auto. As we were installing the first front shock, one of the mounting studs on the bottom snapped off!! So we called around to three different shops in our area and found Pep Boys had one in stock. It was more than twice what I paid for one on Rock Auto, but we had to get it. Expensive lesson. We then installed the seats, center console, and steering wheel. We haven't put the interior quarter panels in yet or the door panels, as we are still working on those. Once all of that was finished, we hit the road! Man, did it feel good to drive her again after a year of being painted! The shocks did AMAZING! The car has a lot more pickup (I barked the tires several times, which it was unable to do before!), and is SMOOOOTH! No more holding on for dear life when turning or going over bumps! I'm attaching a few pics my son took. We still have work to do, but yesterday was a great day!

Dash is installed, and started installing sound deadener/insulation. Ran out of adhesive, so the backseat areA will wait until another day.

How did you get the vents out? I currently am replacing the dash pad, and figured I should do this while the pad is off.

Thanks to everyone’s help on here, I have the instrument cluster installed. I hope to goodness the speedo cable is hooked properly. That is much harder to install than it should be. The dash is a repro, and it is just sitting there because I was checking fit. Still have things to finish in there before closing her up. But I’m happy!

How do you remove the vents from the dash?

So I bought a new headlamp switch and that fixed the dash light problems. Still no turn signal lights, but I think that may be an issue with the flasher relay. Thanks for everyone's help! I'm excited to get the interior back together. I'll keep you all informed! Love this site!

Interestingly, I get no continuity across any of the bulbs when I test (see pic). Even on the two that are confirmed to be working. I removed the headlight switch, and had continuity from the switch to the circuit board, so the fuse and wiring seem good in the dash. I was unable to get continuity in the switch itself for instrument lights, but everything else seemed good, so I’ll try a new switch. I tried turn signal, and still no lights. I turned the light sockets 180 def and still no light. I’m getting frustrated, but hopefully the new switch will help!