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Mountaineerfan last won the day on October 17 2022

Mountaineerfan had the most liked content!

About Mountaineerfan

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    Teaching the Future.
  • Birthday 02/05/1974

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    5th grade math and science teacher, husband, dad.
  • Location
    Milton, GA
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  1. Yikes! I have a convertible as well. I have no idea how I would fit through those little openings behind the seat! Maybe if I remove the motor.... Glad you got it!
  2. So I found the problem: There was no bulb in it! I had to remove the two mounting screws so i could access the screw that held on the lens. It was no problem, I had a good ground with the bumper.
  3. Before I break something I shouldn't, or do more work than necessary... Can the lamp for the license plate be replaced with the housing on the bumper, or do I need to remove the 2 mounting screws and take the whole assembly out of the bumper?
  4. UPDATE: Replaced the check valve ($8 at AZ). Totally revitalized my braking response! Always check the cheap easy repair first!
  5. No, I haven't had a change in idle. I'm thinking about that valve: I'm assuming it's easy to replace? When I come to a stop sign, I have to double tap the brakes, so that's leading me to think check valve. Time for research! EDIT: Yep, easy to replace and $7 from Autozone. I'll try the cheap trick first!
  6. Thanks! Do you have a procedure for checking that valve? Obviously removing the hose....
  7. Symptoms: When driving, SOMETIMES when I press on the brake the pedal is hard to press (it will stop just like manual brakes, though). If I take my foot off for a second and then reapply, they work perfectly fine as power brakes should. Do I have a vacuum leak somewhere? Could it be the booster?
  8. Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires.
  9. Thanks for the replies! The car is a 69. While I will check what you all have mentioned, I have another theory that I haven’t tested: When I installed the new starter solenoid, it was a black color versus the gray color of the old one. Since that’s when my trouble started, I looked again at the online descriptions of the starters. Apparently the gray one is heavy duty. Could this be the issue? By the way, we made it to Dearborn from Atlanta! The power issue cycles through about three times and then stays on, so we’ve survived the travel. I’m posting on Instagram if you want to see our pics: @stevestang1969
  10. Hey, everyone! We are halfway through our road-trip up to Dearborn from Atlanta. The car ran great on the backroads up to Chattanooga. Before we got on I-75 we put the top up and turned on the factory AC. As we merged into traffic, the radio shut off and the blower shut down. I also noticed the gauges dropping, however the car continued to run fine. I pulled over and everything started up again, then after 10 seconds shut down again. It continued to do this with regularity until I shit off the AC, at which point everything was normal. Later, as we drove I turned it on again and it was fine. After our next stop, it did the same thing, and I decided to just leave it on, and after about 2 minutes of driving it stayed on and was fine the rest of the way. What’s going on? The only thing I have changed was a new solenoid. All connections are tight on it. I don’t have a voltage regulator with the one wire alternator installed. @Midlife, is there a fusible link somewhere?
  11. Here you go! This is looking under the dash at the bottom of the box!
  12. Someone told me they are rollers left over from the old starter’s one way clutch. I’ve pulled four out, and drove with the plate off for awhile and heard one other clang, and it’s been perfect ever since!
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