Mountaineerfan

Thanks, everyone! That stinks that they aren’t reproduced!

Hey, everyone! I had my convertible top frame crunched in an accident. Insurance is covering all repairs, but we are having trouble tracking down a replacement top frame. The usual sources have 68s, but no 69s. Anyone have a source? thanks!

Thanks! By the way, my vacuum problem wasn’t a vacuum problem. Pretty sure I had water in the gas! It’s purring after filling up again, using a water treatment, and putting in a new filter.

What is this black canister/valve that is connected to a line going into the firewall as well as to the heater hose that is going into the heater core?

Yes, it’s from the manifold. I’m just curious as to HOW it works, from an academic standpoint. BTW, I’m pulling good vacuum (17-19” at idle), and I can’t replicate what happened yesterday (of course).

So I’m going to be tracking down some vacuum leak today. I know what to check, but I have a question for the knowledgeable folks here that have helped me in the past! When driving yesterday, the engine would sputter and want to die when I stepped on the brakes at a stoplight. I’m going to check the booster and check valve, and I admit I’m not fully versed on how power brake systems work, so what is happening with the power brakes that would cause engine sputtering?

Got the car back from the transmission shop yesterday. Rebuilt C4, after losing all forward gears. Wow, it has more power now than in the previous 8 years I've driven it! My 17 year old griped at me for smoking the tires as I pulled out of his work when I stopped to show him that it was working! :) Installed new front parking brake cable, now does anyone have any idea why the foot pedal doesn't seem to be catching when I push it to the floor?

Anyone know of a junk yard around?

Looks like cast iron.

CRAP! Power top convertible. I was putting the top down yesterday, and there was a weird sound, and the top had trouble dropping the rest of the way. It finally went down. Today I went to raise it, and the passenger side wouldn't raise. I manually raised it, and noticed that the bracket connected to the lift cylinder had broken! Does anyone know if I can just get a new pillar and replace it, or do I need to replace the entire frame (please don't let it be the entire frame).

A black wire leading from the harness into the solenoid. I thought it was a feed from the alternator, so had removed it. Apparently not!

SOLVED! Because I may or may not be ignorant.... There was a wire that was in the harness that I assumed was from the old alternator to the solenoid, so I had disconnected it. I saw it there looking at me as I was swearing at everything else and thought "What the heck. Let's plug it in and see what happens." And the rest is history. Now I am less ignorant.

Thanks, but I don’t have the 3G. I have the Powermaster 100 amp 1-wire.

Thanks! i used a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition post and got the engine to crank, and switched to the other post quickly to keep it running (key is in on position). Lights and everything works. Disconnected jumper and it died. Still won’t start with key. I also noticed that the pulley on the alternator was hot to the touch, but not the rest of the alternator. Belt too tight?

So following several threads on this board, I upgraded my old alternator to a Powermaster one wire setup. I ran a connector from the Alternator to the positive side of the solenoid. I disconnected the voltage regulator plug from the side of the regulator. Went to start and have no power. Battery tests great, but no headlights and the car won’t start. Ideas? I changed the solenoid after experiencing issues just to eliminate that.