Mountaineerfan

No, I haven't had a change in idle. I'm thinking about that valve: I'm assuming it's easy to replace? When I come to a stop sign, I have to double tap the brakes, so that's leading me to think check valve. Time for research! EDIT: Yep, easy to replace and $7 from Autozone. I'll try the cheap trick first!

Thanks! Do you have a procedure for checking that valve? Obviously removing the hose....

Symptoms: When driving, SOMETIMES when I press on the brake the pedal is hard to press (it will stop just like manual brakes, though). If I take my foot off for a second and then reapply, they work perfectly fine as power brakes should. Do I have a vacuum leak somewhere? Could it be the booster?

Here’s a picture of the culprit.

Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires.

Thanks for the replies! The car is a 69. While I will check what you all have mentioned, I have another theory that I haven’t tested: When I installed the new starter solenoid, it was a black color versus the gray color of the old one. Since that’s when my trouble started, I looked again at the online descriptions of the starters. Apparently the gray one is heavy duty. Could this be the issue? By the way, we made it to Dearborn from Atlanta! The power issue cycles through about three times and then stays on, so we’ve survived the travel. I’m posting on Instagram if you want to see our pics: @stevestang1969

Hey, everyone! We are halfway through our road-trip up to Dearborn from Atlanta. The car ran great on the backroads up to Chattanooga. Before we got on I-75 we put the top up and turned on the factory AC. As we merged into traffic, the radio shut off and the blower shut down. I also noticed the gauges dropping, however the car continued to run fine. I pulled over and everything started up again, then after 10 seconds shut down again. It continued to do this with regularity until I shit off the AC, at which point everything was normal. Later, as we drove I turned it on again and it was fine. After our next stop, it did the same thing, and I decided to just leave it on, and after about 2 minutes of driving it stayed on and was fine the rest of the way. What’s going on? The only thing I have changed was a new solenoid. All connections are tight on it. I don’t have a voltage regulator with the one wire alternator installed. @Midlife, is there a fusible link somewhere?

Smooth. It’s an automatic.

Here you go! This is looking under the dash at the bottom of the box!

Someone told me they are rollers left over from the old starter’s one way clutch. I’ve pulled four out, and drove with the plate off for awhile and heard one other clang, and it’s been perfect ever since!

Recently my starter exploded the bendix, and I put a new one in. I pulled some pieces of metal from the inspection plate, and thought I had it all. Started it yesterday and heard the metal again. Opened the plate and found these two guys. Are they part of the old starter?

So then what is this actuator for that engages and moves when put on cold and disengages on warm? The cable moves an arm that is hitting the plunger on the servo (granted, it could move a door inside as well).

So I removed the glove box door. And discovered the blend door actuator motor did not have the vacuum line attached to it. I reattached the line, started the car and tested that it would move, which it did. So now I’ll wait until tomorrow afternoon and drive with it to see if that helps any! I’m thinking with the blend door not moving, the heater core was keeping the box warm and the thermostat would never kick off. Hoping it was a quick cheap fix!

Thanks!

I don’t think my clutch is cycling off, causing some freezing up issues. Is there a way to check/replace the switch without removing the dash? If so, does anyone have a picture showing the location? Can I get to it behind the glove box? If a wire is loose, would the clutch still run? Thanks in advance!