buening

Now you know why I posted! LOL For other's future reference, I attached pics showing the width difference. Note the stock includes inner rocker thickness so when you take that off the measurement you get the extra 1/4", which is primarily all in the wiring channel

Excellent! Message sent. The rear curves are what is all jacked up on the ones I got (plus the 1/4" extra width). See pics, bent ends are from NPD and they confirmed all are like that. I thought they were banged up during shipping. The one pic of the nice but overly curved one is from CJ Pony. The stamping is less crisp than the NPD one.

Ridge, What kit do you mention? Are you talking about the full structure side with A and B pillars? Would you be willing to cut them up in sections? I was planning on just doing the front and rear sections of each side instead of the full length.

I'm 0 for 2 on aftermarket outer rocker panels. I need to replace the front and rear 12" on both sides. Bought one from CJ and one from NPD, both different and both way off. Both are 1/4" too wide and rear lip is not even close. Any other options out there that you've had success with? I don't mind doing some fab but jeez I might as well start with a flat sheet of 16ga based on what I'm seeing with these.

Doesn't sound like the booster. If a booster fails you have no assist on the brakes, and would be like pressing the pedal with the engine off. I'm not familiar with the CRSP conversion, but double check that you don't have a manual brake pedal in a power brake setup. The pedal hanger on the pedal arm is higher up on a power brake pedal. This will give a ton of brake pedal travel. See here for pedal differences: https://mustangsteve.com/brake-pedals-identification-faq/ If the brakes worked fine previously, then odds are you still have air in the lines. Make sure you tap the brake lines as you are bleeding them in case bubbles get stuck, look for any leaks (look at rear wheel cylinders if rear drums), and make sure you have the calipers on the correct sides (reversed can have the bleeder being in wrong location and trap air). I also like using the Motive pressure bleeder system, as it really helps pushing those stubborn air bubbles out. Couple things to look into!

Better hope it wasn't straight water that froze and cracked the block.

If those are the white KYBs, they are notorious for being stiff. I too went with Bilsteins in the rear on mine.

Vibrations are narrowed down to engine (vibration is RPM dependent) or drivetrain (speed dependent with no impact from change in RPM). From what I'm reading, this is drivetrain related so I wouldn't focus on the new flexplate and engine balance. A couple questions: Is the driveshaft original or aftermarket, and has it been balanced with the new u-joints? What is the condition of the 3rd member/differential and has it been messed with? I don't forsee this being a potential for vibration but its in the mix. What rear brakes does the car have? If disc brakes, make sure the rotor is centered on the axle hub Have you removed the wheels and ran the car on jackstands to make sure its not the rear wheels? Install the 5 lug nuts to keep the drums attached, or better yet remove drums/rotors to eliminate those from the list.

I can dig mine out of the box and see if there is a part number on the harness, but may I ask what you're intending to use it for (so we can better help you)? FYI these are nearly impossible to find and when used ones do pop up on Ebay they go for serious coin. Here is a thread with pictures of the one I have:

For rear window install the following may be helpful after learning from my mistakes from misinformation on other forums:

I have a 70 Mach that has, as best as I can tell, original roof rail seals that are in dire need of replacement and was on my list of things to replace next. If you need another test mule I'd be happy to test yours out on mine. Send me a PM if interested.

Another update: I pulled the line from the MC and hooked up the gauge directly to the MC ports. I'm getting 1200psi (firm leg but not standing on the pedal) for the rear brake and buried the needle past 1500psi for the front brake. My understanding is the caliper shouldn't have an effect on PSI (piston size impacts clamping force but not line pressure), so the only thing I can think of is there is somehow STILL air in the lines.

Small update: I hooked up the pressure guage to the drivers front and rear caliper. Something is definitely off with the fronts, whether its another bad MC or still air in lines. I also found that the "less brake" arrow on the Wilwood proportioning valve is backwards. Turning it that direction increases rear line pressures (yes I have the IN and OUT lines correct), so I had the rears at the min which explains why it was nose heavy on braking. Front: Engine off = 300psi, on = 860psi Rear (min prop valve): Engine off = 340psi, on = 540psi Rear (max prop valve): Engine off = 680psi, on = 1030psi The above is me basically standing on the pedal. I unbolted the brembo calipers and tilted them vertically and bled again from both bleeders and both calipers...... with no air and no change in pedal. So frigging frustrating. Going to find some fittings and try to get the gauge hooked to the M/C and get pressures from there.

With car off: 20220901_215723.mp4

Sorry for the delay, had to leave out of state for work. So I have 0.2" of pedal play with engine off until resistance, which feels like booster or linkage slop. Then I have 0.8" of pedal travel and feels pretty firm. As soon as I fire up the engine and get vacuum on the booster, I can press it down with one finger and the slop is gone and measure roughly 1.2", so essentially the same. Not that it matters but measurements were to rubber insert of carpet and perpendicular to floor. Attached is a video. Parking brake on or off has no effect on pedal travel, so that should eliminate small amount of pad movement on the rear if pads were retracting. I just pressure bled (Motive) 2 quarts of brake fluid through the front and rears and no change in feel. All in I'm probably 6 quarts and have tapped all lines with rubber mallet, no leaks anywhere, and booster-MC rod is adjusted correctly. Pumping the brakes multiple times and holding the pedal down does not cause the pedal to sink. I went through 3 new 70 mustang M/Cs and am now on a new 00 Mustang V6 M/C (1.00" bore, same as 69/70 stock M/C)) with same pedal feel. All were bench bled in many different ways (plugs and also with hoses to bowl). I can't get the wheels to lock up on panic braking, and it does feel nose heavy upon braking. An adjustable prop valve is installed to the rear and is currently wide open. I measured 800psi with a guage to the rear caliper with the car off. I haven't done the fronts yet. Setup is 13.2" rotors from 2012 GT with 4 piston Brembos and on rear is 13" 2016 GT. As mentioned, stock booster and 00 V6 M/C 20220901_213755.mp4