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buening

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buening last won the day on December 29 2024

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About buening

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    Decatur, IL

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    Decatur, IL
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    Structural Engineer

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  1. There are multiple black woodgrain options through 3M Di-Noc
  2. Absolutely. Just need to make sure you keep the loop distance the same otherwise your tension adjustment will be all out of what (or shorten the cable). I fabricated my own trans crossmember for my T56 and cut a slot in it for the e-brake cable's J-hook. This lowered it more than the factory location, so now it doesn't rub against the rear of the floorpan.
  3. I'm replacing the entire back half of my 70 fastback and am considering going with the dynacorn/goodmark minitubs. Not a fan of the MTF look (sorry) since it looks like a trailer fender, and not sure I want to go DSE with that big of a frame mod so I'm looking at the dynacorn ones. Has anyone installed these (latoracing?) and if you have, what impacts to the factory interior have you dealt with? I seem to find lots of posts with people doing the tubs but never seem to cover what was done with the interior. Rather than jumping in now and having an "oh $shit" moment when it came to the interior, I figured I'd ask the masses and plan ahead. I know the fiberglass panels bolt to a tab welded to the inner wheelhouse and that tab is about 5/8" wide, so mini tubs would impact that. I'm not afraid of narrowing the rear seat, which an upholsterer could probably narrow the seat covers relatively easily and cutting/rewelding the seat frame wouldn't be that bad. Its more the fiberglass panels that I'm concerned with.
  4. Drill Hog and Bad Dog bits (possibly the same bits/company) are the only ones I know of with a lifetime replacement guarantee. I have no experience with them though. I very recently decided to splurge and bought a $100 set of M7 HSS Norsemans because I have some higher strength 1/4" plate that my Dewalt and other box store bits wouldn't touch. The bit went through he steel nicely but the dang thing chipped on first use, so not exactly happy about that. Gonna see how Norseman's customer service is. I specifically didn't get cobalt bits due to that concern, yet HSS did it too. Also, Norseman, Viking, and many others are all the same bits anymore. I'd be surprised if Drill Hog and Bad Dog didn't source theirs from the same location....
  5. Personally if I were in the market for one, I'd look on local ads like FB Marketplace to see what is for sale on the used market given the large price increase on these things lately when buying new. I picked up a used 80gal BelAire 318VL 80gal dual stage for about 25% the cost of a new compressor about 10yrs ago and that thing has been a beast. It puts out 25cfm @ 90psi and all I've done to it is change the oil, air filter and drain the tank periodically. I run sandblasting cabinet and big die grinders (air hogs) and it never runs out of air. If you are just spraying and using sanders then you might not need high cfm compressors, but if you do plan on using a sandblaster you might want to look at the CFM ratings at the compressors you are looking at because they vary widely. An 80gal 5hp single-stage Campell Hausefeld for $1200 only has 12cfm @ 90psi, whereas on the flipside the 80gal 7.5hp Quincy dual-stage puts out 31cfm @ 100psi but is also $3k. If you have extra garage space, you can sometimes get horizontal tanks much cheaper than vertical ones. Mach1Driver brings up a good point in that you'll need the proper electrical hookup depending on what size compressor you get. I'm handy enough with electrical that I ran my own wire to a disconnect box in the garage. Smaller compressors can be plugged in whereas larger ones will need direct wired with a disconnect box (like what is at your outdoor A/C unit)
  6. Manual or power steering? There are two main wear areas that can lead to slop in the steering. One, which was already mentioned, is the steering box. The other is the power steering control valve that the steering box attaches to. Have someone move the wheel back and forth (slop only, not to move the tires) while you look at the pitman arm on the steering box. If the pitman is going back and your center link isn't moving the your control valve is worn (I had this issue). If the pitman arm isn't even moving then you have wear in your box, which is a good time to grease and adjust as mentioned above.
  7. I created CAD and PDFs of the drop mounts that mimic the Ron Morris ones (posted on VMF). Send me a message if you're interested in them. I'm running 1" drop and slid the motor back 1.25". Stock oil pan, hooker long tubes and steering clears OK, but had to fabricate an engine crossmember (or buy ZRAY's). I have a post on VMF for my crossmember as well as CAD/PDF, if you are into fabricating your own stuff. My engine mounts use the rear leaf spring shackle bushings, so you have the option of using rubber or poly
  8. I'm running 17x10.5 wheels with 315 sumitomo HTR-Z tires (no longer made). It all fits in my wheelwell, but I did roll the lips and had to do a bit of clearancing with a hammer at the front lower inside wheelwell and a bit at the rear inside. I have about 1/4" between my leaf spring and the wheel, and had to use a 1/2" spacer to correct the backspace to get it all to fit. It has 6.8" backspace, so with the 1/2" spacer the net backspace is 6.3" on 10.5" wheel. Here is a link to my post with pictures and info, in case it helps! http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/45710-maximum-rubbergirl-gets-some-new-shoes/&tab=comments#comment-83401
  9. Now you know why I posted! LOL For other's future reference, I attached pics showing the width difference. Note the stock includes inner rocker thickness so when you take that off the measurement you get the extra 1/4", which is primarily all in the wiring channel
  10. Excellent! Message sent. The rear curves are what is all jacked up on the ones I got (plus the 1/4" extra width). See pics, bent ends are from NPD and they confirmed all are like that. I thought they were banged up during shipping. The one pic of the nice but overly curved one is from CJ Pony. The stamping is less crisp than the NPD one.
  11. Ridge, What kit do you mention? Are you talking about the full structure side with A and B pillars? Would you be willing to cut them up in sections? I was planning on just doing the front and rear sections of each side instead of the full length.
  12. I'm 0 for 2 on aftermarket outer rocker panels. I need to replace the front and rear 12" on both sides. Bought one from CJ and one from NPD, both different and both way off. Both are 1/4" too wide and rear lip is not even close. Any other options out there that you've had success with? I don't mind doing some fab but jeez I might as well start with a flat sheet of 16ga based on what I'm seeing with these.
  13. Doesn't sound like the booster. If a booster fails you have no assist on the brakes, and would be like pressing the pedal with the engine off. I'm not familiar with the CRSP conversion, but double check that you don't have a manual brake pedal in a power brake setup. The pedal hanger on the pedal arm is higher up on a power brake pedal. This will give a ton of brake pedal travel. See here for pedal differences: https://mustangsteve.com/brake-pedals-identification-faq/ If the brakes worked fine previously, then odds are you still have air in the lines. Make sure you tap the brake lines as you are bleeding them in case bubbles get stuck, look for any leaks (look at rear wheel cylinders if rear drums), and make sure you have the calipers on the correct sides (reversed can have the bleeder being in wrong location and trap air). I also like using the Motive pressure bleeder system, as it really helps pushing those stubborn air bubbles out. Couple things to look into!
  14. Better hope it wasn't straight water that froze and cracked the block.
  15. If those are the white KYBs, they are notorious for being stiff. I too went with Bilsteins in the rear on mine.
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