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Flanders last won the day on February 21 2022
Flanders had the most liked content!
About Flanders
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Rank
v8 powered poster
- Birthday 06/08/1977
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Location
Canada, Eh?
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Need Replacement Brake Master Cylinder & Booster
Flanders replied to copb8's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
thanks for that feedback. I've got slightly taller valve covers that stock. I don't have an OEM booster to experiment with, so I'm trying to gather data before I end up purchasing new stuff (and hoping it will all fit nicely) -
I've got a nasty clutch pedal squeak. It even binds a bit, making it difficult for smooth clutch operation. While car was up on a hoist, I had someone depress the clutch pedal (a lot) and it really seems like it's coming from inside the bellhousing. If I didn't know better, it would be where the fork pivot is on the bellhousing. I seem to recall my bellhousing not having a pivot bolt, but instead a metal bracket with a slot in the middle of it. Can this part get lubricated, or any other suggestions? I don't think I can remove the fork with the trans in the car, but really need some advice on how to prevent it from squeaking/binding.
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oh sweet. Good idea -- any chance you have a pic of your setup?
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Need Replacement Brake Master Cylinder & Booster
Flanders replied to copb8's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
reviving this thread a bit -- is there such a thing as a smaller booster? With my intake and valve covers, I feel I don't have a lot of room for a big booster. -
Under the car, the bracket/joint that splits the e-brake cable to both of the rear wheels (this bracket/spring thing is just under the drivers floor -- I can't seem to upload a pic at the moment) is hitting my exhaust pipe. Arguably, I could/should drop the exhaust. However, is there such a thing as relocating the parking brake cables + mechanism so they're out of the way?
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I was thinking of putting in a hidden kill-switch in the car. Just getting a bit paranoid. I've got MSD 6-AL along with Holley Terminator X. The MSD has an easy "add a switch to the purple wire" process, which kills spark when the switch is on. No problem there. My concern is if I do this, the engine will still crank and my fuel injectors will still squirt but the car will never start. Aside from washing my cylinder walls with gas, this potentially could flood the engine should I ever forget about my kill switch and keep cranking it over and over. Anyone put a kill switch in a car with EFI? Ideally I want to cut off fuel AND spark. Just not sure how to do this with single switch.
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Headers: 351W, T5, Cable Clutch, Pwr Steering and Brakes
Flanders replied to TexasEd's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Might be a bit late, but I've got JBA 1653's on my 351. Fit with original clutch+z-bar, worked with original power ram although very close clearance so I added a really thin shim to it to drop the ram a bit. -
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I ran the pertronix billet distributor for a few years. It's definitely taller than stock, and it worked great...until it didn't, because the pertronix ignotor module inside needed replacing. I have my Holley ECU controlling spark now (with MSD box) so I've added more complexity :D but maybe the petronix modules are more reliable now (that was 10 years ago). If you go the pertronix route, it's more cost effective to use your factory distributor and replace the guts with the pertronix module.
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happy I can actually access the site today. I've searched and seen various topics on the matter, but wondering any long-term reports or suggestions on car radio's. I have very little interest in an actual am/fm radio in my mustang. The exhaust is too loud :D and I really don't mind cruising with engine noise only, it's part of the appeal! However, I have another classic (Fairlane) which is much quieter but has no stereo whatsoever. I'm looking at adding speakers and turning them into a big "bluetooth speaker" so it would only work with a phone. Anyone have experience with a product like the Velex VX508? It was recommended by some folks with UTV's. Basically you pair your phone with it, and it provides an amp so you can hook some car speakers up to it. I don't want a regular am/fm radio, I just want the ability to get my spotify (or whatever) on my phone going right to my car's speakers. Seems to be a lot of junk products on amazon, so was hoping for recommendation.
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Max Tire Size for '69 Mach 1 428 R CJ
Flanders replied to 69428RCJ's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I've got 275's in the rear of mine. No rolling required, no rubbing. Still need to lower the front-end a bit, but lots of room. front: 17 x 8 with 4.75 bs back: 17 x 9.5 with 5.7 bs front: 245/45/17 back: 275/40/17 -
the qa1's are definitely working -- on the softest setting i can push/pull the shaft (when they are out of the car) relatively easily. On firmest setting, it's a lot harder.
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reviving this thread again. I've loosened off the shackles completely, and the car is still super-stiff when I try and bounce the rear end. I have QA1 adjustable shocks on softest setting. Shackle is at the 5 o'clock position (maybe 4:30) which seems to be ok. I don't think it's binding. I think the scott drake mid-eye 4.5 leaf springs are just stiff. And having the rear end so much stiffer than the front really makes the car oscillate funny on the highway. I may try Eaton's stock-spring-rate leaf springs that lower the car by an inch. ML1567-1. Any other opinions?
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yeah good thought -- I'll re-check. I put them in a few years ago, thought they were tightened while car on the ground.
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reviving this thread.... I've been playing around with the dampening on my QA1's, and I'm pretty sure it's my leaf springs that are causing my stiff-ness. When I push down on the rear fender, the car barely moves (and if I really give it a jolt, it bounces a bit....which explains the odd oscillating/bouncing I see on some hwy stretches). I have some scott drake 4.5 leaf mid-eye leafs in the back. They are not very old, but I'm getting the sense they're not very spring-y. I like the height of the mid-eyes, but I really want a smoother ride. What do you guys run in the back that isn't super firm?
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...I've got them set on "6" out of 18. Although I might actually firm them up a bit -- I get a wierd oscillating on a few parts of the highway (where the rear end of the car actually feels like it's bouncing!) probably due to front being a lot firmer than the rear now....