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About Flanders

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 06/08/1977


  • Location
    Canada, Eh?

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  1. Figured I'd wrap this up -- the PA Performance guys have great support, doing through various voltage measurements at various spots to debug it down to a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator. This is an easily serviceable part (small part that screws into back of alternator) and the new one has solved all my issues. Thanks Mach1Driver for the feedback as well, you were spot-on in your analysis :) I saw it at 13.8V on the battery after I started up the engine and ~14.4V after a little test drive.
  2. yeah, the plot thickens -- when I disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage at the green/red prong, I get 11.9V (battery is 12.4). So this should be enough field voltage to get the alternator working. If I was to wager a guess, my alternator is pooched somehow.
  3. I just unplugged the connector at the voltage regulator, and started up the car. When measuring the voltage at the connector (not at the regulator): Battery+ post: 12.31V F: 0.02V (not quite zero) S: 12.11V A: 12.25V When car is off, and the key is in the accessory position (note I had the charger on the battery for 20 minutes, so it brought the voltage up a touch): Battery+ post: 13.11V F: 0 S: 12.9V A: 13.11V I'm only seeing 8.6V on the Field output of regulator, but I should be seeing 0.5V-1V less than battery+ post (12V+). PA has given me a few more measurements/suggestions. The voltage on the S + A of the voltage regulator plug seem to be ok.
  4. Thanks a lot for the info -- I appreciate the detail! I will go through my wiring again, but some voltage measurements: The F on the voltage regulator, connected to the alternator green/red wire is at 8.6V when the car is running. The S on the voltage regulator is a solid 12.5V (fyi, no pink wire, long ago removed) the output of the Alternator (if I measure the voltage at the battery posts) is around 12.4-12.8V. Seems to move around a bit, but it's not enough to charge my battery. I have no electric fans, or A/C, or stereo. Is the Field voltage from the voltage regulator high enough? It seems like 8.6V is a bit low. I'll check my wiring again, but PA performance has agreed that 8.6V isn't enough to turn on the alternator. I must say, I'm impressed with PA Performance's support line so far...very responsive! edit: quick update: I did not connect 38BK to b+ (your step 13, above), as per your note #1. I've got a fuseable link for note #2 coming, but I didn't think this would effect anything, would it? (electrically, is it needed with the big 4GA wire connecting starter solenoid post to B+ on alternator?)
  5. I've got more digging to do. Got this from PA Performance (nice quick support!). My car never had the 3-pin connector to the alternator, so something else may be at play here. I need to see what voltage I've got out of the F pin of their voltage regulator, but I believe the instructions below match your pg1 diagram (step 12 is the orange wire). 462802C Kit - Express Instructions This instruction sheet is a supplement to the main installation instructions provided in the kit, and not meant to replace or contradict the more detailed steps. Some more experienced installers prefer a simple guide. Disconnect Negative battery cable on car battery and move to the side. Mark wires on existing alternator as ST, FLD, B+ and Ground (if there is a ground) Disconnect fender mounted external regulator plug Remove fender mounted external regulator box Install new PA Performance fender mounted external regulator box Reconnect plug Replace alternator per alternator instructions Connect the 3-Pin alternator plug provided in the kit to alternator Connect Yellow wire to B+ Post Connect White/Black wire to Stator tap on alternator. Tape the original ST wire as it is not used but may have power Connect FLD wire to new Green/Red wire in kit Connect B+ wire to alternator Connect Ground (if there is one) Connect Negative battery terminal to battery. You will have power at the green/red wire with the ignition key in the run position, no power on this wire with the ignition key off
  6. Reviving this, now that I've been able to start my car! My PA Performance alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery. I've connected it as per your pg1 instructions, however I'm wondering about the F from the PA Performance regulator that goes to the orange wire, then goes to the red/green wire on the Alternator. If the PA Performance alternator is internally regulated (which I believe they are, according to their website), then what is the "F" output of the regulator doing in your diagram (pg1)? It's ultimately going to the green/red of the alternator but I'm not sure what the voltage is on it. The PA Performance instructions say to wire the green/red wire on their alternator to a 12V ignition voltage (ie. like the green/red wire that goes to the S pin of the original alternator) so I believe that's why my alternator currently isn't charging the battery. Thoughts? If their regulator is a dummy one, then the F output isn't doing much (I've pinged them to get more information, but figured you've already been talking to them)
  7. ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system. Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese. I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works. The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit. A few pics for reference.
  8. I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key. Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU. I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on. It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next... hopefully link works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9
  9. Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely. Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues. It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway. So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.
  10. ooo I like that AN fitting. that's a good idea. I ordered a few brass fittings from amazon (exactly what 1969FstBack posted) but may not be pleased with how they look. Thanks!
  11. I thought I'd wrap up this thread -- I put in the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, loosened off all the transmission crossmember bolts, and managed to pry my engine over about 3/16"-1/4". Previously, the header was touching the steering box. Now, I've a gap! Success! The attached picture of the mount is the drivers side before I "moved" the engine over towards passenger side. I've got the JBA mid-pipes, so I'll put those in soon. They look pretty good, just need to see how much clearance I've got over a rubber boot on my steering ram (it will clear it, but I don't want boot near the pipe!). Gotta check my z-bar too, might need to order the JBA one as well.
  12. https://jiminglese.com/ 8-stack EFI for 351W
  13. lol dagnabbit, this one isn't going to work (can't even thread it in, won't rotate around the throttle body!). I'm piecing together a few brass pieces now, hopefully doesn't look too bad. I might end up just plugging this thing and bypassing the heater. Just need something reliable to plug the water pump outlet -- I see on here that the rubber plugs aren't a reliable solution. Not sure if I want more make-busy-work of putting in the marine water pump that has no heater outlet yet...
  14. thanks RPM-- this would be permanent. And I agree, I think at the transmission it would only be 1/8". Just gotta get out in my garage again and play around!
  15. sm00n: I'd appreciate the pic for comparison! I'm not sure how easy it would be to bend the flange. Not sure I'd trust my bending skills to keep it flat, although at this point I have nothing to lose I suppose. And yes, I've called the manufacturer. Guess how much that helped :(
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