Jump to content

Flanders

Members
  • Content Count

    379
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Flanders

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 06/08/1977

Converted

  • Location
    Canada, Eh?

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 1969_Mach1: it might be the difference between 1653S and 1655S.
  2. mustangstofear: do you have a link? On BBK offroad's website, I can only select years back to 1983 for exhaust parts. nymustang1969: thanks! Any change you have a product #? I'm looking on summit: 1655S: for cable clutch (applications say z-bar modification may be required) 1653S: application also says z-bar modification could be required. Which of the above parts am I looking for? 1655, or 1653?
  3. I've searched on here and there seems to be all sorts of answers :) so I'll be good and specific with my question. I've got a stock 351W (1969, of course!), power steering, stock clutch z-bar with my 4-spd. My exhaust manifold has a crack in it, so I was debating replacing with some shorty headers. What will fit with my configuration? Hedman says "some modification to clutch linkage may be required", and I read on here that JBA shorties don't work with stock power steering unit. Any other comments? I'd like to be able to go click-click-click-order and then bolt it right on :)
  4. Just read the Mustang Monthly article where they put a set of Aldan coilovers on a Mustang. Same coilovers fit on our '69's. https://aldanamerican.com/year-make-model-search/?swoof=1&pa_vehicle-make=ford&pa_vehicle-model=mustang&pa_vehicle-year=1969&pa_coilover-adjustment=single-adjustable Is anybody running these? The search turned up nothing. I'm curious about the difference between 450 and 550lb spring rate, quality, etc.
  5. I've replaced my pink wire with a straight 12V feed (pertronix II) and that fixed my warm-startup issues. That said, I had to replace my pertronix after ~3 years because it was very intermittent reliability on cold startup. Got a new one 1.5 years ago and it's been good ever since. I hope this one lasts longer...
  6. I'm a 4spd toploader, so should be good to go. And thanks for the tip on the noisy pump. I'll aim for Aeromotive. As the rest of my car is stock, I'm not sure if I'll get any advantage over moving to a single plane intake manifold.
  7. Ha, thanks. You're right, 58.5psi regulator built-in. I just need to get the 10micron in-line filter then. regarding the tank vent -- I need to see if my '69 tank has a vent in it, or if the cap is vented already
  8. Thanks Mach1 Driver -- I've seen some of your other EFI posts so you've been helpful! Regarding the pump: I can't find posts about the noise from the Walbro in-tank pumps. I've heard the hum from external in-line pumps but thought the in-tank ones were pretty quiet. That said, I do like the reviews from Aeromotive. Kind of making a shopping list here: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/69-70-mustang-stealth-fuel-tank/ I was hoping to keep the engine compartment looking fairly stock. Stainless lines won't fit the bill, however I may be swayed to go stainless just for safety. Wiring kit for fuel pump: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/premium-fuel-pump-wiring-kit/ Regulator: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/efi-throttle-body-stealth-fuel-system/ Again, in the effort to keep things stealthy, where do folks mount the regulator? The above regulator has the return line so seems like it must be mounted close to the throttle body. Is that the case? Also, I wasn't familiar with the vent valve until now. Thanks for the TPV6 info, that will be pretty easy to tie into the tank vent.
  9. I'm considering moving to EFI this winter (351W engine). I like the Holley Sniper EFI setup (and Holley's support) so I'm leaning towards this. I was going to get a new fuel tank with in-tank pump (22Gal, from Holley, comes with fuel pump) to make life easier, and I like the in-tank pump quietness. For those who have gone this route, any advice or opinions on filter and lines? Is it worth getting a new intake manifold? (currently have stock heads and exhaust manifolds) I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions from those who have done the Sniper EFI conversion.
  10. ya, nothing squirted out when I put the pedal down :D I'll pull the MC on the weekend and see what's up!
  11. Just finished front disc brake swap. I bled the fronts first (gravity bled) and attempted to bleed the rears, but no fluid was coming out whatsoever. Ultimately I disconnected the fitting on the master cylinder that goes to the bowl for the rear lines, and no fluid dripped out at all! Could the master cylinder be clogged somehow? I bench bled it before I installed it and I got all the bubbles out, but would a bad bench bleeding job cause this? I'm perplexed as to why no fluid came out when I disconnected the fitting on the side of the full-of-fluid master cylinder.
  12. ok, I think I've got it sorted out (Dan@Chocostang has been very supportive). The ultimate problem was the fittings. I've got two sizes, below: The top one has all the right threads, but the seat for the inverted flare on the brake line looked too big. I thought it should match the fitting seat size on the bottom one (which is clearly smaller). The brake line will sit in the top fitting, it just doesn't have as much overlap. Chocostang says it's ok to use the top fitting, so it looks like I can make progress again. Hopefully nothing leaks :)
  13. Thanks Mike -- what front discs did you use for your conversion?
  14. I'm finally back at this job again...amazing how crap gets in the way of Mustang work :) I'm still having difficulties getting the proportioning valve into the system. Basically, I can't seem to find a proper adapter to go between the rear hard brake line (OEM) and the proportioning valve. As Cigarwilki pointed out, the OEM 1969/70 proportioning valve should do the trick nicely because it will fit my existing OEM hard line fittings (not that I'm keen on trying to remove my existing distribution block!). BUT, how does this proportioning valve work? Is it compatible with the 67 K/H Shelby-style front rotors (ie. chocostang, and even SSBC front disc conversion kits), or will it only work with the 1969/70 front disc brakes? Any help would be mucho appreciated. I've visited too many shops and turned away each time because I can't get proper brake line adapters! That rear hard line fitting size is apparently odd!
×
×
  • Create New...