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About Flanders

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 06/08/1977


  • Location
    Canada, Eh?

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  1. Thanks guys for the replies! I'll get my PCV hooked up properly. As it turns out, the PCV I've been using for the past 8 years had a blob of RTV in it, effectively rendering it useless (thanks, previous owner!). This might explain a lot of the smelly issues, and constantly leaking rear main seal. I didn't notice until just a few weeks ago, while I was swapping hoses around and cleaning things out.
  2. Well, at least my car has started smoking. -when cruising on hwy, if I take foot off the gas, I see some light colored smoke in my rearview mirror. -when I rev the engine under an overpass/bridge, I see some light colored smoke in my rearview mirror (can't tell if smoke is when rev's are going up, or down). I don't have the PCV connected to my intake, so this might be part of the problem. I have engine bay smoke when I rev the engine as well. It doesn't have the black overly-rich smell/look to it, which I used to have when I was carbureted (now I'm EFI'd). Can I get some advice on narrowing down what the issue is? I have not run a compression test, so not sure if it's my piston rings. I thought valve seals were typically shot when I'd see smoke upon startup (but I don't see any excessive smoke on startup). Help would be appreciated!
  3. This post is quite timely -- my steering system needs a lot of TLC (ie. replacement parts) in order to get it steering as good as it was in '69, but the more I think about it, I feel the time is right to upgrade to a rack and pinion. For the TCP or Street-or-Track systems, can you stick with the factory power steering pump? Or is it recommended to upgrade?
  4. I can't say I'm hard on my tires at all, and don't really put a lot of km's on them. I'd say they are great for my needs, but I'm probably not the best for an opinion on how good of a tire they are.
  5. I've got 17x8's in the front, 17x9.5's in the rear, haven't had any rubbing (1" Scott Drake lowering springs in front) http://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_51&products_id=526 Tires are NT555 Gen 2 245/45/17 front 275/40/17 rears
  6. i also have the aeromotive tank -- I ran both lines (went with stainless braided to be fancy) along the passenger side of the car. Not quite stock looking :) but protected and very functional. I routed it 'through' a hole in the front subframe (wrapped it with some extra hose) before it goes up the side of my transmission tunnel to the back of the engine where it's connected to my fuel rail. I can take more pics if you need, the back of the car is all covered up and pushed up against the wall so harder to get at.
  7. couldn't have gone too far, the collar on the end of the cable would have prevented it from going through the firewall (in theory, anyway)
  8. I've got this one from Aeromotive. Although, if I remember right, the box said Tanks Inc on it! https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/69-70-mustang-stealth-fuel-tank/ 22 Gallon, fit nicely in my '69. The only catch is that you'll need a filler neck from a '70 as this tank is 'taller' than the original '69 one, so don't forget to order that too! Re-ran braided lines up to the engine compartment, which are on top of the tank. I had to put a little hole into the side of my trunk (where gas tank sits in) for this. I then made a flat floor for the trunk with 1/4" wood. So far, so good!
  9. Would a chocostang re-build be worthwhile to make sure my steering box has minimal slop? The thought of rack and pinion is also bouncing around in my head :D since I'm removing stuff anyway...
  10. Thanks folks for great advice. I'll attempt this re-alignment (and then re-alignment of my steering wheel) soon. Need to save a project for when the snow hits :) Hopefully things will line up with the splines and pitman arm when I get it all centered!
  11. A few years ago, the shop that did my alignment didn't bother to 'center' the pitman arm on the steering box. I'm pretty positive this is why the car has a much wider turning radius when I turn left, and could explain some of the looseness I feel in the steering when I'm going 'straight'. My alignment specs were bang-on what I asked for, however my 2-year old tires with very low km's are going bald on the outside shoulder. I believe this is both an alignment *and* a centering problem with the pitman arm -- I found that even when I was turning at slow speeds I could hear the tires squealing a bit! Would my analysis above make sense? Before I dive into correcting this myself, is centering the pitman arm just a matter of counting the revolutions of the steering wheel to find the 'center' point, making sure wheels are pointing straight, and then connecting the pitman arm back to the steering box? Also, I've personally never disconnected the pitman arm from the steering box. Is this a simple job, or is it a splined and tapered shaft that on the steering box that is going to require some strong words to help disconnect? (Power steering '69, if it makes a difference)
  12. I'll burp the system again, good idea bout keeping it loose and letting coolant (and hopefully air) escape. I've gone through two temp senders and burped the system a few times, so maybe there's just a stubborn air pocket in there, due to the nature of the intake design (??). I can change the temp setting in the EFI to 140, but I'd prefer not too. This is me being stubborn I guess, but if my temp needle is right in the middle, I want the ECU matching. This isn't a recent rebuild, aside from intake manifold, so I was hoping to get to the bottom of this. I could swap the Holly sender with the factory one too, but then my dash needle would always read 'cool' which would drive me bonkers!
  13. I'm a bit stumped. I've got an OEM-style temp sender at the front of my intake manifold, and a new Holley temp-sender at the back of my intake manifold (Jim Inglese 8-stack EFI system). 180F thermostat. After 20 minutes of driving around, using my infrared thermometer I can see the outlet of my water pump is 180F and my dashboard factory temp gauge is right in the middle. However, the infrared thermometer on the back of the engine reads around 140F, which matches the Holley ECU readings. I've replaced the Holley coolant sender, but this didn't change the results (I wasn't really expecting it to, as it matched the infrared thermometer reading). Coolant blooped out of the sender hole so I don't believe there is an air bubble in there either. 40F seems like a large temperature differential between the front and back of engine! Any thoughts? I could burp the system again but not sure what else could be going on. Since the ECU only thinks my engine is at 140F, it's always doing cold-start adjustments and never thinks the engine is warm.
  14. Are you using stock engine mounts? I'm not sure how close your fittment is, but moving your engine over 1/4-1/2" might help. I got Ron Morris motor mounts to get clearance for my headers (not with Borgeson box though)
  15. Thanks for the feedback. The belt size is definitely correct, I've been measuring and adjusting and have a nice collection of belts :) to make sure of this. The angle could be a touch better, but maybe a degree. I've also read about running a double v-belt pulley on the alternator (it's 95A), but I'm just not quite sure how to go about this. I'm definitely nowhere near the 95A load, and I have good wraparound on the alt pulley. As suggested, one big honkin' PS belt that covers both alt and PS might do it, but this may cause other issues. Easy enough to check, I suppose -- just gotta buy one more belt and a pulley. The bearing seems quiet -- good idea about disconnecting the wires to the alternator (just need to unclip the harness), that's an easy test for the bearings + load. Half my brain says to go serpentine, but I do like the look of the 'classic' v-belt and fan on the front of the engine. What have others on here done when upgrading alternators?
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