Flanders

I was thinking of putting in a hidden kill-switch in the car. Just getting a bit paranoid. I've got MSD 6-AL along with Holley Terminator X. The MSD has an easy "add a switch to the purple wire" process, which kills spark when the switch is on. No problem there. My concern is if I do this, the engine will still crank and my fuel injectors will still squirt but the car will never start. Aside from washing my cylinder walls with gas, this potentially could flood the engine should I ever forget about my kill switch and keep cranking it over and over. Anyone put a kill switch in a car with EFI? Ideally I want to cut off fuel AND spark. Just not sure how to do this with single switch.

Might be a bit late, but I've got JBA 1653's on my 351. Fit with original clutch+z-bar, worked with original power ram although very close clearance so I added a really thin shim to it to drop the ram a bit.

I ran the pertronix billet distributor for a few years. It's definitely taller than stock, and it worked great...until it didn't, because the pertronix ignotor module inside needed replacing. I have my Holley ECU controlling spark now (with MSD box) so I've added more complexity :D but maybe the petronix modules are more reliable now (that was 10 years ago). If you go the pertronix route, it's more cost effective to use your factory distributor and replace the guts with the pertronix module.

happy I can actually access the site today. I've searched and seen various topics on the matter, but wondering any long-term reports or suggestions on car radio's. I have very little interest in an actual am/fm radio in my mustang. The exhaust is too loud :D and I really don't mind cruising with engine noise only, it's part of the appeal! However, I have another classic (Fairlane) which is much quieter but has no stereo whatsoever. I'm looking at adding speakers and turning them into a big "bluetooth speaker" so it would only work with a phone. Anyone have experience with a product like the Velex VX508? It was recommended by some folks with UTV's. Basically you pair your phone with it, and it provides an amp so you can hook some car speakers up to it. I don't want a regular am/fm radio, I just want the ability to get my spotify (or whatever) on my phone going right to my car's speakers. Seems to be a lot of junk products on amazon, so was hoping for recommendation.

I've got 275's in the rear of mine. No rolling required, no rubbing. Still need to lower the front-end a bit, but lots of room. front: 17 x 8 with 4.75 bs back: 17 x 9.5 with 5.7 bs front: 245/45/17 back: 275/40/17

the qa1's are definitely working -- on the softest setting i can push/pull the shaft (when they are out of the car) relatively easily. On firmest setting, it's a lot harder.

reviving this thread again. I've loosened off the shackles completely, and the car is still super-stiff when I try and bounce the rear end. I have QA1 adjustable shocks on softest setting. Shackle is at the 5 o'clock position (maybe 4:30) which seems to be ok. I don't think it's binding. I think the scott drake mid-eye 4.5 leaf springs are just stiff. And having the rear end so much stiffer than the front really makes the car oscillate funny on the highway. I may try Eaton's stock-spring-rate leaf springs that lower the car by an inch. ML1567-1. Any other opinions?

yeah good thought -- I'll re-check. I put them in a few years ago, thought they were tightened while car on the ground.

reviving this thread.... I've been playing around with the dampening on my QA1's, and I'm pretty sure it's my leaf springs that are causing my stiff-ness. When I push down on the rear fender, the car barely moves (and if I really give it a jolt, it bounces a bit....which explains the odd oscillating/bouncing I see on some hwy stretches). I have some scott drake 4.5 leaf mid-eye leafs in the back. They are not very old, but I'm getting the sense they're not very spring-y. I like the height of the mid-eyes, but I really want a smoother ride. What do you guys run in the back that isn't super firm?

...I've got them set on "6" out of 18. Although I might actually firm them up a bit -- I get a wierd oscillating on a few parts of the highway (where the rear end of the car actually feels like it's bouncing!) probably due to front being a lot firmer than the rear now....

Just wrapping this up -- I put QA1 single-adjustables in the rear, and it's definitely softened it up a bit. Still firm, but not jolting anymore over the bumps!

thanks for the tips. I'll take a look at bilstens -- I was even looking at the QA1 rears, just need to see how fancy I want to get for a street car.

I took my car out for a good shakedown run (finally) and noticed that the rear suspension seems quite hard. When I hit some cracks/bumps in the road, it's a hard THUMP from the back-end. There's barely any dampening going on from the shocks. I have mid-eye leaf springs (a few years old) and some KYB shocks (7 years old, minimal mileage). Any suggestions on how to soften it up so it doesn't feel and sound like the back end of the car is going to split open on the bumps?

Worked like a charm. I measured twice and cut 4 times (doh) but this finally did the trick. I was able to move the trans over by 1/4" (maybe even just 3/16") and it got rid of my rubbing. My crappy old rubber mount may need replacing soon anyway (it's old.) but it's an easy thing to modify again if required. Driveshaft goes in next, so fingers crossed all my trans/driveshaft/pinion angles are good.

The position of the shifter itself is already fantastic with the TKX. It's already 'back' and has configurable position for the shifter arm position. I just need one that's narrower where the rubber boot is. TKX shifter location (purchased 'kit' for '69 Mustang from American Powertrain)