Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Flanders last won the day on February 21 2022

Flanders had the most liked content!

About Flanders

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster
  • Birthday 06/08/1977


  • Location
    Canada, Eh?

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Perhaps another question: Is the z-bar easy to modify? If I take this to a welder to cut up, are there any things I need to consider?
  2. Naturally, during final assembly I discover that parts don't quite fit with each other. My TCP steering looks nice, however the stock z-bar now interferes with the steering shaft. The top curved arm of the z-bar hits it. Is there a replacement z-bar that has the top arm mounted closer to the boss on the engine?
  3. that above pic looks custom :D I've just attached the mount, and have a few notes for anyone else doing this. I used this: I had to clearance the corner of the mount a bit, above the elongated hole (left, in the pic). Otherwise the bracket was hitting the old cross-member mounting point, preventing the bolt hole from lining up. It does indeed go on the 'rear' side of the original crossmember mount. Also found that this bracket is not compatible with the JBA H-pipe (for 351W, manual trans). The right-hand side, lower corner of the mount (in above pic) hits the exhaust. ...so now I need exhaust work done again. Or, I find another transmission mount that fits (the stock one won't work).
  4. I've got a TKX 5-speed going in, but have a few questions about the crossmember mount that came with the kit. It's their "x-factor" mount. It's quite a different shape than the factory mount, and instructions (should I choose to read them) are pretty vague. I'm curious if the attachment points on the frame are on the front-side, or back-side of the original crossmember mounting position. Original mount, for reference: Was hoping someone can shed a bit of light, otherwise I'll just arse around with it and see what fits best once I have the engine+trans hanging in the right position.
  5. hey yeah thanks for the suggestion. It has had oil in it, but removing the reservoir and adding a bulkhead-style connector is an option I'm toying with. I'd need to see how much of a pain in the ass this is!
  6. yeah, I don't know about the longevity of that. I'm going to get a 6-AN to barb fitting. Then I'll just use a little rubber hose (with clamps) between the pump outlet and the barb on this fitting. It's low pressure, and down low in the engine compartment so hopefully won't be seen!
  7. Thanks for the tip! that covers the high-pressure side. Any idea on how to connect the low-pressure "barb fitting" on the pump to a braided stainless line?
  8. I'm trying to figure out some hoses. I've got a TCP rack and pinion system with AN-6 fittings on it. I need to connect this to my CVF racing Saginaw pump: So for starters I'm trying to sort out how to make a stainless line connect to the low-pressure 5/16" barbed fitting. Do I just put another barbed fitting on the end of the stainless line, and a small section of rubber hose in between with hose clams? (this doesn't seem right). Similarly, the outlet (with white plastic cap, in pic) is: "3/8" SAE Inverted Flare Inlet(5/8-18 thread)" but i think the below adapters will work for the conversion. Was hoping someone has done this before: https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/power_steering_adapters/parts/961947LERL https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/power_steering_adapters/parts/090203SDS Thanks for feedback!
  9. I just took mine apart, and from what I remember, there was a plastic sleeve in there. http://fixingthetruckagain.blogspot.com/2016/12/rebuilding-1969-mustang-non-tilt.html Your column looks a bit different than mine though!
  10. Any engine bay pics without the regulator? Since it's all neat and tidy now, must be able to show it off :) I can't imagine why I'd ever want to go back to a stock external voltage regulator, but I'm going to attempt minimal cutting and then tuck/zipstrap the old harness underneath the battery tray or rad core support. Also, I don't quite understand the point of wire #915 in CVF Racing's 1-wire alternator instructions. I would have thought it was either 915, or 916 going to the fuse block (ie. don't need a source from both the alternator terminal AND the fuse post). Not sure if anyone has done it this way, seems redundant.
  11. thanks for the thoughts -- that would clean things up over there.
  12. Just curious what you guys have done with the old voltage regulator and wiring harness, after converting to a 1-wire alternator. Seems like butchery to hack up the harness to remove it all :) so trying to gather some opinions. Do you just leave the regulator in there, with now-unused wires to the regulator just not connected to anything? Or hack hack hack to eliminate it entirely?
  13. Yeah, you summed it up -- the adapter (for the Grant wheel) is basically not quite the right size for the pin to work. There are two holes on the adapter for spring pins (which would eliminate the need for the notch) so perhaps that is what Grant intended folks to do, although from my testing they aren't quite in the right spot either. My switch is original, actually this is a replacement (swapped during my troubleshooting efforts). So this is purely a funky aftermarket adapter issue for the Grant wheel. The plastic may wear down for sure, but there isn't a lot of pressure on it aside from the turn signal cancellation cantilever mechanism. We shall see!
  14. When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently. I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on. There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out. You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot. Anyhow, 3D printer for the win. I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in. My prototype: works like a champ! I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring). My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better. In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway. Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.
  15. I do like the KRC pump, however if seems if I go with a CVF serpentine, I need to go with their Wraptor system (it's the only one for SBF engine with GM type-2 pump mount). Unfortunately, it moves the alt to the drivers side, and costs $1000 more, which I'm not keen on. Spec-wise, a saginaw pump with pressure reducer value should do the trick. Maybe I can convert/modify their "Beast" bracket to support the KRC pump? https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-302-351w-serpentine-conversion-kit-alternator-power-steering/ We'll see. Otherwise, lanky expect a PM.
  • Create New...