Rsanter

On my 69 I used a booster from Tuff Stuff. It’s a non concourse version of the boss429 booster used. direct bolt on and has the same feel as the original booster. i did this because I wanted to use a willwood MC and they were too long to use with the stock booster

Most brands of 1” front bar will be fine for a driver car

This is what I did and it’s the bast setup for this ever

A friend with a 70 fastback wanted more tire but did not want to modify the back seat. he simply marked where the fiberglass panels sat and came in that amount and doing the pie cut in the front . he also removed the bracing inside those panels so the fiberglass sat right on the tub

I have the bad dog drill bits, I bought them at SEMA. they drill ok, the big benifits are that they go through just about everything. the bad thing is that size wise they are not the most accurate. they are fine for drilling by hand or even in a drill press, if you need precision holes like for machine work then you need a regular drill bit. i did destroy one drilling into some titanium. It got the job done but sacrificed itself in the process. i had zero issues with them replacing it on a dose note, i have bought two,of the bad dog 4” diamond grinding discs. they are expensive at $100 each but I have used the snot out of them with steel and stone. In fact I don’t buy grinding discs anymore....period i did wear out the edge of one cutting hard axle shafts to length and again they gave me zero trouble replacing it. i think I bought them about 7 years ago, so I. Betting I’m ahead money wise with not buying grinding stones

I always made my own

The line size is the same but the nut is different. in the past I have used the original lines if they are good and simply replaced the ends of the line to put the new nut on the front lines are easy to swap ,if you want. You can just change the nut on the one to the rear

The steel stick epoxy I would say is a good choice

I would rough up the back side and use epoxy with some wires embedded to try to fix it

3/8 carbide ball on a die grinder is far better. the spot weld cutters are not that good to use and can bite the material below that you don’t want to hurt. using a grinder in more open areas works well too and those belt grinders work great

I have a number of sets of the Australian 351c heads that I’m selling. these have the 2V port size but have the closed chambers i have already cut some of the heads heads for the screw in studs and will be modifying some to go on Windsor blocks to make a clevor or a “bogus boss” i will also be doing builds/valve jobs on some of them Asking price for the heads (not modified) is $600 location is visalia California

There was an old article where someone robbed the power windows out of a ford mercury full sized can and I regraded the motors with the mustang regulators. it was basically a bolt up

What’s the chance anyone near me has a boss302 intake or an aftermarket clevor intake I could borrow for some mock up..?

Thanks, this is what I needed

I have some Australian 351c heads I want to convert to “boss” or clevor heads. the diagram with the machine work used to be in the older ford Motorsport catalogs, but I can’t find my catalogs right now. if anyone has this information or an older ford Motorsport catalog I would appreciate it

I have several sets of the Australian 351c heads for sale these are the ones with 2v port size but they have the closed chambers a pair is $600 for those of you wanting to use these on a 289-302 or 351 Windsor style block to build a clevor, I have a milking machine so I can make the modifications for you location is visalia ca

I swear I have seen these that you put on with a stud welder and years ago I though I saw a special pop rivet that replaced those studs

Double pole double throw switch interrupt power to the MSD and the fuel pump

Years ago,I saw one that someone made. they used old piston wrist pins for the two flat rollers to take dents out of flat panels

I made my own exhaust. for hangers I modified and used the stock single exhaust one for the one side then dug through my stuff to find the other side. the rubber parts were just so I replaced them,with belting material. if you want all original they you,have to pay up, if you don’t need exact original you could just fab something based on the original,design

I need a crank pully for my project car. should be a 70 to 73 4 bolt 3 sheave for AC anyone have one?

I wanted to go as it’s a great show but was already signed up for a show elsewhere

What you need is one flat roller and the other one to be crowned but have a flat spot in the middle so you can fit into the curve of a panel. Two flat rollers will damage a curved panel

Glue into the channel. if you want to replicate factory staples I use safety wire and just put it in the original hold and bend it over

I have always rebuilt them myself. i get the gasket kit and reed plate from NAPA if yours has the issue of a rod knock I think I would get another one and swap the guts into your unit. i have a number of the compressors so I’m sure I can find what you need. You can also contact Leigh Shorley in the Brisbane area as he may have some too. i have a shipment getting ready to go to him in Australia so I’m sure he would let me add a couple parts to it if he does not have what you need